CN103705428B - For the nonionic composition and method of making the same of cutin of dispelling - Google Patents
For the nonionic composition and method of making the same of cutin of dispelling Download PDFInfo
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- CN103705428B CN103705428B CN201410012089.3A CN201410012089A CN103705428B CN 103705428 B CN103705428 B CN 103705428B CN 201410012089 A CN201410012089 A CN 201410012089A CN 103705428 B CN103705428 B CN 103705428B
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of nonionic compositions for cutin of dispelling, comprise following component by weight percentage: nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid 0.5-5%, nonionic emulsifier 0.5-5%, plant extract 0.5-5%, wetting agent 5-20%, surplus is deionized water and auxiliary agent, wherein, described nonionic emulsifier be Polyethylene Glycol-240/ hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether, the effective ingredient in described plant extract is ellagic acid.Advantage is: the present invention should dispel cutin compositions with nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid for film former, carried out stranding mud, and carried out thickening by nonionic emulsifier, adopt the safe materials of nonionic, feel very close with skin, do not need to form zwitterion complex, do not need the substrate of low ph value, safe and non-stimulating, outward appearance brilliant white, soft and smooth flexible, experience is felt good, immediate effect is obvious, and gentle safety, has long-term horny layer softening effect.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to household chemicals technical field, be specifically related to a kind of nonionic composition and method of making the same for cutin of dispelling.
Background technology
The skin of face cell of the mankind will experience a generation, aging, the process of dying every 28 days.Healthy and beautiful skin, gathers around the horny layer of regular texture and appropriate thickness usually.In the normal metabolic processes of skin, when horn cell is after skin bottom is formed, slowly can be pushed into horny layer, make its top layer aging, die, peel off, thus make skin shine brand-new brilliance.
If the cell of dying becomes old cutin, be deposited on outermost skin, cannot normally peel off, form the situation that cutin is too much, horny layer is blocked up, the horn cell of dying does not have complete in skin surface peeling, just forms macroscopic scurf, is commonly called as " dead bark ".With advancing age, skin metabolism is slow, and the aged cells of some variations is deposited on epidermis and cannot metabolism goes out, and this process come off can slow down gradually, and too much cutin just defines the epidermis of coarse drying.In addition, fall temperature reduces, air drying, and skin metabolism speed slows down, thus causes skin hydropenia to cause epidermis cell death to be accelerated, and thus more easily forms dead bark.
If old cutin can not be removed by women in time, just there will be skin dimness, coarse, lacklustre phenomenon.And blocked up horny layer also can affect the normal metabolism of skin, make skin problem more serious, allow skin fully cannot absorb skin care products.
If skin clean is not thoroughly, skin care products improper use, fat secretion is superfluous, skin ageing increases the weight of, skin metabolism is bad, and be often in drying, windy environment, more need regular exfoliation, but horny layer is too thin, the easy hydropenia of skin, sensitivity and aging, so need leniently exfoliation, simultaneously, by keeping the skin wet and vitamins and other nutritious components, make horny layer more healthy.
When cutin cream of dispelling is better than being that film taken off by PVA facial film containing the facial film part of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) tearing type, pore can be made to expand, sometimes tiny fine hair is even taken away, make Dermatochalasia, make antibacterial easily enter people, frequent effect more can make skin elasticity reduce, be unfavorable for supporting and hold, and Exfoliating Scrub cream is by rubbing except foreign material such as Exfoliating Scrubs, not injured skin, can often improve looks.This is particularly applicable to drug cosmetics, and it makes medicine energy time action, and increase curative effect, cutin cream of dispelling in addition is emulsion, close to skin oil and fat composition, easily absorbs, therefore the skin effect had.
At present, the product on market has Exfoliating Scrub element, Exfoliating Scrub cream, Exfoliating Scrub gel, Exfoliating Scrub facial film etc., divides according to formula components, substantially can be divided three classes:
One, frosted class: the frosted product on market, mainly by some fine granularity material massaging skin, remove impurity in old cutin on skin and pore, promote regenerative cell growth, make pachylosis, hydropenia, stiff phenomenon is improved, also can strengthen the absorption of follow-up skin care products.If but used inappropriate frosted granule, also could make skin desiccation, increase the weight of acne; And if frosted composition is really up to the mark, also likely makes horny layer become too thin and be subject to ultraviolet sunburn, acceleration epiderm skin dead bark comes off or damages (particularly for the consumer of dryness, neutral skin).
Two, chemolysis class: fruit acid, salicylic acid, Fructus Chaenomelis ferment, sulfur etc. belong to chemolysis class, can soften cuticle, be adsorbed on the horn cell on top layer, dissolve the constitute between cutin, it is made to come off in cleaning process, the height of these chemical concentration is depended in the effect of cutin of dispelling, and has good deep layer metabolism during concentration height.This type of cutin cream of dispelling does not have the harsh feeling of scrubbing cream, but the skin that stretches in the process of skin without stratum corneum, easily cause skin to follow the string.Once very popular fruit acid/salicylic acid exfoliation product on market, peels off aging cutin layer by acidity, also have and be called " changing skin ", but the consumer of significant proportion feels irritant, even damages skin, can not life-time service.
Three, gel or ointments: product can separate out colloid through hand rubbing after smearing, removes dead bark in the mode of similar " stranding mud ".Anion (polyacrylic acid mainly used by Exfoliating Scrub cream, as card ripple class) form with cation (Dodecyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride) is composite, wherein polyacrylic acid working concentration higher (about 3%), and neutralize without alkali, pH is about 3.5, the same with fruit acid more irritant.Consumer can experience, and is zwitterion complex (Agglomerated products) in fact by " the seemingly-dead skin volume " that homogeneous transparent material body is using position to rub.Because zwitterion compatibility exists taboo, require select the anion of high molecular and have the cation of certain solubility, and formula can reach the value preserving phase of 2 years at ambient temperature.
Plant extract (Chinese herbal medicine) also has application dispelling in keratose, more particularly has the Chinese medicine promoting skin renewal, putrefaction-removing granulation-promoting.Such as: the ellagic acid etc. contained in Galla Chinensis extract.
Ellagic acid, also known as tannic acid, tannin, is a kind of polyphenolic substance, is present in the plant tissues such as Galla Chinensis, Fructus Kaki, Folium Camelliae sinensis, coffee, Punica granatum L., Fructus Vitis viniferae, and these plants are not yet period of maturation ellagic acid content is especially high.For yellow or light brown lightweight are without crystalline substance powder or scale, soluble in water and ethanol, is also soluble in glycerol.Ellagic acid has astriction, and skin enlarged pores can be made to shrink, tighten and reduce wrinkle, makes skin show fine and smooth outward appearance.Ellagic acid has the ultraviolet effect of absorption, and absorbance can reach more than 98%; Ellagic acid can also restraint of tyrosinase and catalatic activity, can make melanin reduction-decolor, and therefore, ellagic acid is used for cosmetics and has sun-proof and effect that is skin whitening.But on market, the keratose of dispelling containing ellagic acid is but very limited.
In a word, the product removing cutin should adopt gentle substrate, consumer not only can be allowed to massage gently or coat very thin one deck as facial film, short time closes pore, make skin insulation, moisturizing, strengthen the microcirculation of blood capillary, the nutrient substance such as Chinese herbal medicine also can be allowed effectively to infilter skin, and absorbed well by epidermis cell, reach the effect promoting skin function.Gently crumple with have gentle hands afterwards, utilize high molecular cohesiveness in Exfoliating Scrub cream to form agglomerate, take away dead bark and the foul on surface, thus reach effect of clean skin, cosmetology.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, provides a kind of nonionic compositions for cutin of dispelling.
Another technical problem to be solved by this invention is the preparation method providing the above-mentioned nonionic compositions for cutin of dispelling.
The present invention solves the problems of the technologies described above taked technical scheme: a kind of nonionic compositions for cutin of dispelling, with nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid for film former, and form nonionic system by nonionic emulsifier thickening, comprise following component by weight percentage:
Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid 0.5 ~ 5%
Nonionic emulsifier 0.5 ~ 5%
Plant extract 0.5 ~ 5%
Wetting agent 5 ~ 20%
Surplus is deionized water and auxiliary agent, wherein, described nonionic emulsifier be Polyethylene Glycol-240/ hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether, the effective ingredient in described plant extract is ellagic acid.
The nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid that the present invention adopts has following several respects characteristic as film former:
(1) viscosity of aqueous polyurethane does not have notable difference with the change of polymer molecular weight, even if intramolecule forms cross-linked structure also without impact, so can make the right increase of polymer poly, to improve cohesive strength; And the viscosity of solvent based polymer is with the increase exponentially relation rising of molecular weight, time crosslinked, easily produce gel.
(2) under identical solid content, the viscosity of solvent borne polyurethane obviously rises with the increase of solid content, and the viscosity of aqueous polyurethane is generally low than solvent type, and aqueous polyurethane dispersion particle diameter hours viscosity becomes large.
(3) viscosity of solvent based polymer can adjust by control solid content or quantity of solvent, and the viscosity of aqueous polyurethane need adjust with thickening agent, makes water soluble ingredient in system too much like this, reduces resistance to water.
Concrete, nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid of the present invention can be the Beyer Co., Ltd Baycnsan trade mark product (as
,
with
dispersion), it containing cosolvent and antiseptic, is not very pliable and tough film former, not only ventilative, not tight for the formed thin film of time in cosmetics, and can not be clamminess, and improves the comfort level that product uses, after use, skin smooth, softness, more aobvious elasticity.But this product is not yet reported in the purposes in cutin compositions of dispelling.
Polyethylene Glycol-240/HDI the copolymer that the present invention adopts is two-and decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether is White-yellowish chip solid, there is in molecule hydrophobic part and hydrophilic segment, becoming micellelike after being dissolved into water, fit to reach the fit intensity of meeting of thickening effect micelle more weak, but ability of closing again is comparatively strong, thus is formed with elastic gel.Its advantage is that good film-forming property, can form the smooth skinfeel as hyaluronic acid on skin without the need to neutralization; Resistance to polyelectrolyte; Still Absorbable organic halogens homogenizing when high temperature resistant, resistance to heating, high viscosity; Have shear shinning characteristic responsive especially, thixotropy is splendid, energy Fast Restoration; Excellent elasticity, excellent stability, also possesses suitable patience to inorganic salt.
Concrete, Polyethylene Glycol-240/HDI copolymer of the present invention is two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether can be Amada Co., Ltd. ADEKA(Ai Dike) non-ionic emulsifier stablize thickener products (as ADEKANOLGT-700).
Because polyurethane can be used for Residual-type product as sunscreen product film former, so security performance is secure, feel and the skin of polyurethane are close, soft nature, " stranding mud " out be smaller product as scurf, roll up obviously different from the elongated coil that zwitterion system rubs.But nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid does not have thickening power substantially, different from common polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and Polyethylene Glycol-240/HDI copolymer two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether is nonionic emulsifier, surprisingly good thickening power is found that there is after being combined with nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid, and viscosity is directly proportional to concentration, produce good elasticity under higher concentration, the compositions that therefore both are formed is suitable in cutin dispelling cosmetics very much.
Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid preferably accounts for 0.5 ~ 2% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid more preferably accounts for 1 ~ 2% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Nonionic emulsifier preferably accounts for 1 ~ 3% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Nonionic emulsifier more preferably accounts for 1.5 ~ 2.5% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Plant extract preferably accounts for 1 ~ 3% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Wetting agent preferably accounts for 10 ~ 15% of composition weight percentage ratio.
On the basis of such scheme, described plant extract is Galla Chinensis extract.Galla Chinensis extract adopts conventional method to extract, and such as, after adopting soak with ethanol to extract, upper macroporous adsorbent resin, repeatedly obtains Galla Chinensis extract after eluting.
On the basis of such scheme, described wetting agent is one or more the combination in glycerol, sorbitol, 1,3 butylene glycol.
On the basis of such scheme, described auxiliary agent comprises essence, antiseptic, disodiumedetate (EDETATE SODIUM).
Wetting agent can be the glycerol that accounts for compositions 6 ~ 10% and the combination of 1,3 butylene glycol accounting for compositions 3 ~ 7%.
The present invention solves the problems of the technologies described above another taked technical scheme and is to provide above-mentioned aqueous polyurethane and dispels the preparation method of cutin compositions, comprises the steps:
Step 1: added by nonionic emulsifier in deionized water, is warming up to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, is uniformly mixed 15 ~ 20 minutes, is cooled to 40 ~ 45 DEG C; Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid is mixed with wetting agent, is heated to 40 ~ 45 DEG C, is uniformly mixed;
Step 2: two kinds of mixture step 1 obtained are uniformly mixed, and are uniformly dispersed;
Step 3: add plant extract and auxiliary agent, dispersed with stirring, be down to room temperature, obtains cutin compositions of dispelling.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows:
The present invention should dispel cutin compositions with nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid for film former, carry out stranding mud, and carry out thickening by nonionic emulsifier, adopt the safe materials of nonionic, feel very close with skin, such raw material usage is recommended different from supplier, do not need to use anion and cation to form zwitterion complex (Agglomerated products), do not need the substrate of low ph value, safe and non-stimulating, outward appearance brilliant white, soft and smooth flexible, experience is felt good, and immediate effect is obvious, gentle safety, has long-term horny layer softening effect.Be aided with plant extract simultaneously, improve cutin effect of dispelling further, also make product accord with the demands of the market.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the present invention is described in further detail, but embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto.
preparation technology:
Step 1: add in deionized water by the nonionic emulsifier in A phase and EDETATE SODIUM, is warming up to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, is uniformly mixed 15 ~ 20 minutes, ensures to be uniformly dispersed, and rotating speed 150r/min stirs borehole cooling to 40 ~ 45 DEG C; B phase nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid is mixed with wetting agent, is heated to 40 ~ 45 DEG C, is uniformly mixed, be uniformly dispersed;
Step 2: B phase mixture is slowly added in A phase mixture, is uniformly mixed, be uniformly dispersed;
Step 3: add plant extract and auxiliary agent, dispersed with stirring, be down to room temperature, discharging after slowly stirring 30 points, obtains cutin compositions of dispelling.
Experimental result is in table 2.
Relatively can be found by embodiment N1 ~ N3 and N4 ~ N6, when not adding nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid, the effect of compositions dead bark of dispelling useless, illustrates that nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid and nonionic emulsifier cooperatively interact and can realize the present invention and to dispel the object of cutin.
First embodiment N4 ~ N6 has investigated the addition of nonionic emulsifier, finds that the addition about 2% is more moderate in integral formula, and the material body stickiness made is moderate, is the soft colloid of brilliant white.Find the investigation that nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid with the addition of in addition, according to the amount rubbing dead bark, the dead bark rubbed when addition is less is partially slow, and the dead bark rubbed when addition is more is on the high side.But embodiment just gives the better amount ranges of nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid and nonionic emulsifier, and in the zone of reasonableness of claim, compositions all has cutin effect of reasonably dispelling, and can regulate according to the different demands of client.
security test
animal skin irritant experiment method of testing
Security performance test aspect, patent method of testing defers to the requirement of national cosmetic hygienic practice about skin irritation test, carries out irritant experiment and then mark weighing gentle performance and the security performance of product to animal cuticle.According to animal skin irritant experiment standards of grading contrast figure, mark is higher, and zest is larger, and mark higher than 1 timesharing, human experimentation has sensation, and therefore marking requirement must not higher than 1 point.By test, experiment final sample is 0 point, non-stimulated.
stability test:
The investigation requirement of national cosmetic hygienic practice about facial cleaning cream stability is followed in the test of patent sample stability
1. sample is tested: 6 samples being numbered N1 ~ N6, are contained in 6 airtight Clear glass bottles and jars respectively.
2. the testing time: on October 18, (3 months) 18 days ~ 2013 July in 2013.
3. test condition: put into refrigerator, room temperature and constant incubator (temperature is shown in result table 3).
4. respectively at the 15th day, 30 days, 60 days, 90 days, phenomenons such as whether having spoiled, thinning of variable color is thick, layering is observed for four times.
Test result: ("-" represents that mastic is normal, fine and smooth and homogeneous; "+" represents that material body surface is seen and sends out slightly).
Material body stability all have passed test in three months, and embodiment N1 ~ N6 shows well at various temperatures, does not occur caking, sends out the wild effects such as thick, variable color is spoiled, reach commercially available prod standard.
conclusion
Cutin compositions character of dispelling of the present invention is gentle, thoroughly can remove dead bark, the dirt on face and body skin, have the effect of facial deep layer cleaning and nursing, non-stimulated, can life-time service, and stable in properties, technique is simple, is easy to operate, and is suitable for large production.
Above-described content be only the present invention conceive under preferably embodiment, and according to technical scheme of the present invention any equivalence change, modify, combination, simplify, all should be equivalence substitute mode, all belong within protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. for a nonionic compositions for cutin of dispelling, it is characterized in that: with nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid for film former, and form nonionic system by nonionic emulsifier thickening, comprise following component by weight percentage:
Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid 0.5 ~ 5%
Nonionic emulsifier 0.5 ~ 5%
Plant extract 0.5 ~ 5%
Wetting agent 5 ~ 20%
Surplus is deionized water and auxiliary agent, wherein, described nonionic emulsifier be Polyethylene Glycol-240/ hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether, described plant extract is Galla Chinensis extract, effective ingredient is wherein ellagic acid, described auxiliary agent comprises essence, antiseptic, disodiumedetate, and the preparation method of nonionic compositions comprises the steps:
Step 1: added by nonionic emulsifier in deionized water, is warming up to 80 ~ 85 DEG C, is uniformly mixed 15 ~ 20 minutes, is cooled to 40 ~ 45 DEG C; Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid is mixed with wetting agent, is heated to 40 ~ 45 DEG C, is uniformly mixed;
Step 2: two kinds of mixture step 1 obtained are uniformly mixed, and are uniformly dispersed;
Step 3: add plant extract and auxiliary agent, dispersed with stirring, be down to room temperature, obtains cutin compositions of dispelling.
2. the nonionic compositions for cutin of dispelling according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described wetting agent is one or more the combination in glycerol, sorbitol, 1,3 butylene glycol.
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Families Citing this family (9)
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| CN104523490B (en) * | 2014-12-11 | 2018-03-16 | 广州栋方生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of exfoliating composition with skin whitening, moisturizing effect and preparation method thereof |
| CN107028807A (en) * | 2015-07-24 | 2017-08-11 | 陈海 | Remove dirt and waste and old cutin moist type shower cleaning products and preparation method thereof |
| CN106902033A (en) * | 2015-12-22 | 2017-06-30 | 伽蓝（集团）股份有限公司 | A kind of scrub cosmetics and preparation method thereof |
| JP6903426B2 (en) | 2016-12-15 | 2021-07-14 | ロレアル | Effervescent composition |
| CN109010171A (en) * | 2018-08-30 | 2018-12-18 | 王金福 | A kind of bathing skin cleaner |
| CN110123682A (en) * | 2019-04-03 | 2019-08-16 | 广州市拉凯尔干细胞研究所 | A kind of personal care articles preparation method with inhibition propionibacterium acnes |
| CN110755301B (en) * | 2019-12-05 | 2023-03-31 | 广州恋曲生物科技有限公司 | Foundation cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN111067836B (en) * | 2020-01-11 | 2022-07-26 | 广州品爵生物科技有限公司 | Exfoliating gel and preparation method thereof |
| CN114668700A (en) * | 2021-04-27 | 2022-06-28 | 山东华中生物科技有限公司 | Squalene gel and preparation method thereof |
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| CN1228380C (en) * | 2001-03-02 | 2005-11-23 | 株式会社资生堂 | Aqueous polymer emulsions and cosmetics with use of the same |
| JP4608584B1 (en) * | 2009-06-29 | 2011-01-12 | 株式会社資生堂 | Skin preparation |
| FR2960773B1 (en) * | 2010-06-03 | 2015-12-11 | Oreal | COSMETIC PROCESSING METHODS USING A POLYAMIDE-POLYETHER POLYMER-BASED COATING |
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