CN108977993A - A kind of thin high density imitates the design method of embroidered fabric - Google Patents
A kind of thin high density imitates the design method of embroidered fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN108977993A CN108977993A CN201810911461.2A CN201810911461A CN108977993A CN 108977993 A CN108977993 A CN 108977993A CN 201810911461 A CN201810911461 A CN 201810911461A CN 108977993 A CN108977993 A CN 108977993A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses the design methods that a kind of thin high density imitates embroidered fabric.The present invention designs weaving based on the tissue that rocketed, in fabric final finishing, the long line that floats through the tissue that rockets is cut, remaining colorful yarn head portion part forms the stereoscopic effect of pile shape embroidery effect, and the characteristic and difficult point of fabric are " strengthen the degree of encryption, take clipping and carving ".It is wide that the layout that rockets will consider that the flower spacing at clipping and carving position is greater than clipping and carving blade, while guaranteeing beautiful, takes into account the feed of clipping and carving machinery, clipping and carving facilitates.Away from unsuitable too small, it is difficult otherwise to will cause carving machine feed in the section that rockets through clipping and carving, meanwhile, spacing is too small, and the area that rocketed is overstocked, also will increase fabric difficulty of weaving；Spacing is too big, influence it is decorative simultaneously, flower it is very few through radical, flower weaver's web it is excessively dilute, be unfavorable for warp thread and be uniformly distributed on floral axis and cause tension irregular.Flower warp density is higher than mainthread density, and flower area's density wants high, so that villus is plentiful after clipping and carving.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric arts, and in particular to a kind of thin high density imitates the design method of embroidered fabric.
Background technique
Color is knitted through clipping and carving poplin cloth, and fabric has " slide, endure, is refreshing " style, using dark blue and white color longitudinal stripe interval point
Cloth, through dichromatism clipping and carving purple, dark blue to insertion powder, appearance has imitative embroidery effect, and longitudinal stripe gives the slender sense of stature, element
It is refined quiet.
Product of the invention is thin high density plain cloth, and yarn section radical is few, strength is low, wears no resistance, intertwined point
It is more, through close big, shed open is not easy opening or cleaning, and the local warp thread coverage coefficient of clipping and carving is more than 150%, and difficulty of weaving is big.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of thin high densities to imitate embroidered fabric
Design method.
Technical solution: a kind of thin high density imitates the design method of embroidered fabric, and specific design is as follows:
1. yarn design: fabric yarn is divided into body warp and flower warp thread and weft yarn；
A. body warp and weft yarn design: ground warp, weft yarn use 11.7tex Xinjiang Long staple cotton combed yarn, the ground warp not rocketed
Yarn and weft yarns constitute fabric body；JC11.7tex single thread be averaged ultimate strength be 185cN, strength irregularity 11.5%,
Unevenness CV 14.3%, 15/km of details, 45/km of slubbing, 97/km of cotton knot；
B. spend warp thread design: flower is used the higher C18.2tex carded cotton yarn of line density, big after flower warp thread final finishing
Part is wiped out, therefore dry, details, cotton knot are of less demanding to item；Warp thread is averaged ultimate strength as 273cN；
Specifically: combinations of warps JC11.7+18.2tex；Body warp is JC11.7tex, and flower warp thread is 18.2tex；Ground warp
Yarn is distributed between the flower warp in do not rocket region and the region that rockets；In the region that rockets, Hua Jing: ground warp=1:1；
2. fabric compactness designs: fabric body be the plain weave not rocketed ground portion, thus design the ground tissue that does not rocket through to
Tightness Ej=61.5%, broadwise tightness Ew=43.4%；
3. Density designs:
A. area is through close: through to tightnessI.e. Obtain finished product through close Pj=486 root/10cm；
B. it spends Qu Jingmi: being reduced through the area that rockets in order to increase flower through to adjacent coverage effect, raising is colored to be shown rate
Ground is shown rate, and the density in flower area more regional should double, and Ze Hua Qu Jingmi reaches 972/10cm；
Although flower area through, Hua Jing very big to tightness
Yarn is in overlap condition, but since flower is only in bonding region and weft yarns, rest part is in the warp not interweaved
Floating long linear state, therefore fabric integral weaving difficulty will not be increased considerably；
C. pick count: the requirement for being 43.5% according to broadwise tightness determines filling density Pw=343/10cm；
4. fabric width: being required according to tailoring, determine that Fabric width is 145.5cm；
5. dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric designs: Ridge tracing is locally decorated with the imitative embroidery effect formed through clipping and carving based on plane；Color
Purple powder and dark blue dyeing defect warp are embedded on the damp white alternate slice of blueing, the flower pattern of dark blue and the pale reddish brown warp of powder clipping and carving requires up and down
It is straggly, left and right is adjacent, responds to and cooperate with each other across a great distance, and sees thinly scattered in exquisiteness, have in existing agile, plane in peace and quiet three-dimensional lofty "；
6. main process design is as follows:
A. a flower dent calculates
Because through close ratio=through the area that rockets: plain weave area=2:1, according to Ridge tracing, the every dent in plain weave area penetrate number=2
Root/tooth；The every dent in area that rocketed penetrates=4/tooth of number；
One spends the interior dent number shared by area that rockets=mono- to spend radical/every reed penetration number=10 in the flower area × 4/4=10 that rocketed；
One spends the interior plain weave area dent number not rocketed=flower every reed penetration number=150/2=in plain weave area radical/area
75；
The total flower dent number=area's number of teeth that the rocketed+plain weave area number of teeth=10+75=85；
B. average every reed penetration number
Ground tissue is averaged the flower of every reed penetration number=mono- warp thread radical/flower dent number
=(one interior plain weave radical+one is spent to spend interior through the radical that rockets)/flower number of teeth
=(30 × 5+4 × 10)/85=2.24 root/tooth；
C. finished product is averagely through close
It is average to spend width=(150+40)/34.7=547 through close (root/10cm)=mono- flower warp thread radical/mono-；
D. full width warp thread radical
According to the needs that breadth and expanding act on, if Side End Number is 44 × 2, it is known that tissue every reed penetration number that is averaged in ground is
2.375, if the every reed penetration number of side texture is 4.It is known it is average through it is close be 547 (roots/10cm), door width is 145.5cm；Then full width is total
Through radical=547 × 145.5/10+88 × (1-2.24/4)=7996 piece；
E. flower process is split
To guarantee to be rocketed tissue not close to selvedge in weaving, and make flower pattern symmetrical as far as possible, is processed convenient for warping, and after
It arranges and spells width, carry out splitting colored processing；
Full width spends number=(full width radical-Side End Number)/mono- flower warp thread number=(7996-88)/180=43.93, does plus spends
Subtract head processing, that is, is modified to 44 flowers, subtracts number=180 × (1-0.93)=12；It splits and spends rear Warp Tension Test:
(30+purple powder of plain weave rocketed area 10+plain weave, the 70+powder of 10+plain weave area of area 5+ navy that rocketed is purple
Color 10+plain weave area of the area 5+ navy that rocketed is rocketed the 10+plain weave 30 in area) × 44 flowers, last flower end subtracts first 12；
F. fabric breadth and denting width
Fabric breadth=Fabric width/(1- dyeing and finishing width shrinkage)=145.5/ (1- is determined according to dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%
6.5%)=156cm；
The weft shrinkage and upper machine edge grinding width obtained is tested according to pioneer, determines that denting width is 156.6；
G. metric system porter
Full width dent number=full width spends × mono- flower number of teeth-of number to subtract the number of teeth=44 × 85-12/2 shared by the number of teeth shared by head+side yarn
+ 88/4=3756；
Metric system porter=full width dent number/denting width=(3756/156.6) × 10=240.
As optimization: in the dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric design, grain pattern layout are as follows: Ridge tracing uses based on taeniae plain weave area,
It is rocketed supplemented by area, area uses blue, informal voucher interval arrangement mode, the warp thread radical for including in blue and each striped of white
It is respectively 5；Item is wide=radical/through close=5/4.86=1.02mm, it is dotted with purple powder between the informal voucher of part and navy passes through
Decorative pattern sample, rocketed Qu Huajing and ground are respectively 5, and arrangement ratio is 1:1；The back side, which is cut, through final finishing after weaving floats long line, shape
At the imitative embroidery effect in front.
As optimization: in the dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric design, relative distance an are as follows: flower (i.e. one circulation) is shared blue, white alternate
Warp thread vitta 34, wherein 30 indigo plants, white bars for plain weave vitta, every 5 warp thread；4 vittas be through the vitta that rockets,
Every includes 10 warp thread, and flower is through between pass through whitely, ground warp and flower are respectively 5；
The two homochromy farthest spacing distances through the vitta that rockets are 18, and the homochromy minimum distance that rockets straggly is 15 up and down
Item；
1 vitta is divided between the not homochromy vitta that rocketed is nearest；
One flower radical=plain weave radical × 15+ is rocketed a radical × 4=5 × 30+4 × 10=190；
One flower width=34 × 1.02=34.7mm.
The utility model has the advantages that the present invention designs weaving based on the tissue that rocketed, in fabric final finishing, cut through the group that rockets
That knits floats long line, and remaining colorful yarn head portion part forms the stereoscopic effect of pile shape embroidery effect, the characteristic of fabric
It is " strengthen the degree of encryption, take clipping and carving " with difficult point.It is wide that the layout that rockets will consider that the flower spacing at clipping and carving position is greater than clipping and carving blade, protects
While card is beautiful, feed, the clipping and carving for taking into account clipping and carving machinery are convenient.Otherwise the section that rockets through clipping and carving can make away from unsuitable too small
It is difficult at carving machine feed, meanwhile, spacing is too small, and the area that rocketed is overstocked, also will increase fabric difficulty of weaving；Spacing is too big, shadow
Sound is decorative simultaneously, and flower is very few through radical, and flower weaver's web is excessively dilute, is unfavorable for warp thread and is uniformly distributed on floral axis and causes to open
Power is irregular.Flower warp density is higher than mainthread density, and flower area's density wants high, so that villus is plentiful after clipping and carving.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is grain pattern arrangement schematic diagram of the invention；
Fig. 2 is local backing texture figure of the invention；
Fig. 3 is line domain of the invention；
Fig. 4 is fabric reverse side schematic diagram before non-clipping and carving of the invention；
Fig. 5 is fabric front schematic view before non-clipping and carving of the invention；
Fig. 6 is fabric schematic diagram after clipping and carving of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field
Personnel can better understand advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, those of ordinary skill in the art's every other implementation obtained without making creative work
Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
The present invention is the weaving and production that thin high density imitates embroidery yarn-dyed poplin, is designed and is knitted based on the tissue that rocketed
It makes, in fabric final finishing, cuts the long line that floats through the tissue that rockets, remaining colorful yarn head portion part forms pile shape
The stereoscopic effect of embroidery effect, the characteristic and difficult point of fabric are " strengthen the degree of encryption, take clipping and carving ".The layout that rockets will consider clipping and carving portion
It is wide that the flower spacing of position is greater than clipping and carving blade, while guaranteeing beautiful, takes into account the feed of clipping and carving machinery, clipping and carving facilitates.Due to flower
Through different with the interleaved point in ground, using two-beam work, the few flower of radical is through using warping sizing machine starching, and rocket area's warp yarn
Density will increase, through it is close it is more regional double, to guarantee that there are enough tightness in flower area, colored flower is unlikely to loosen after clipping and carving,
Ground, which passes through, passes through two box sizing, increases squeezing pressure, and increase is coated to solve through close big again, and the unclear problem of weaving opening uses
The weaving of air-jet loom twin shaft, with reducing plain weave through heald density, the higher back rest, compared with hightension, it is relatively early be open, extend last group
Pilot jet injecting time.
One, Fabric Design
1. Fabric Style positions
This fabric is summer shirt for women and skirt fabric, and the style of design requires to see unrestrainedness in calmness, agile.Quality is wanted
Ask close, fine and smooth, feel requirement is smooth, has the flower-shaped appearance of Three-dimensional embroidery after weaving and arranging with clipping and carving.
2. yarn design
Fabric yarn is divided into body warp and flower warp thread and weft yarn.
2.1 body warps and weft yarn design the technical characteristic neat and well spaced, fine and smooth according to thin special poplin cloth cloth cover, it is desirable that filling yarn is close
Spend that small, strength is high, bright and clean filoplume is few, item is dry uniform.Ground warp, weft yarn use 11.7tex Xinjiang Long staple cotton combed yarn, do not rocket
Body warp and weft yarns constitute fabric body.Since fabric is fine and closely woven, require quality higher body warp and weft yarn.
Actual measurement JC11.7tex single thread be averaged ultimate strength as 185cN, strength irregularity 11.5%, Unevenness CV 14.3%, carefully
Save 15/km, 45/km of slubbing, 97/km of cotton knot.
2.2 flower warp thread design flowers are played the role of decoration function, to guarantee to spend the covering through to adjacent body warp, and are cut
The requirement for spending rear villus plentiful, flower are used the higher C18.2tex carded cotton yarn of line density, big portion after flower warp thread final finishing
Divide and wiped out, therefore dry, details, cotton knot are of less demanding to item.Actual measurement warp thread is averaged ultimate strength as 273cN.
Summarize are as follows: combinations of warps JC11.7+18.2tex.Body warp is JC11.7tex, and flower warp thread is 18.2tex.Ground warp
Yarn is distributed between the flower warp in do not rocket region and the region that rockets.In the region that rockets, Hua Jing: ground warp=1:1.
3. fabric compactness designs
Fine and close, the smooth requirement according to fabric texture, fabric compactness want high, and fabric body is the plain weave not rocketed ground portion,
The ground tissue that does not rocket thus is designed through to tightness Ej=61.5%, broadwise tightness Ew=43.4%.
4. Density designs
4.1 areas are through close through to tightnessI.e. Obtain finished product through close Pj=486 root/10cm.
4.2 flower Qu Jingmi are being reduced through the area that rockets in order to increase flower through to adjacent coverage effect, raising is colored to be shown rate
Ground is shown rate, and the density in flower area more regional should double, and Ze Hua Qu Jingmi reaches 972/10cm.
Although flower area through, Hua Jing very big to tightness
Yarn is in overlap condition, but since flower is only in bonding region and weft yarns, rest part is in the warp not interweaved
Floating long linear state, therefore fabric integral weaving difficulty will not be increased considerably.
The requirement that 4.3 pick counts are 43.5% according to broadwise tightness, determines filling density Pw=343/10cm.
5. fabric width is required according to tailoring, determine that Fabric width is 145.5cm.
Two, dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric designs
It is required according to the style of fabric, Ridge tracing is locally decorated with the imitative embroidery effect formed through clipping and carving based on plane
Fruit.It is sedate plain on color, purple powder and dark blue dyeing defect warp are embedded on Lan Bai alternate slice.Dark blue and the pale reddish brown warp of powder clipping and carving
Flower pattern require up and down it is straggly, left and right is adjacent, responds to and cooperate with each other across a great distance, and sees thinly scattered in exquisiteness, have in existing agile, plane in peace and quiet three-dimensional prominent
It is towering ".
1. grain pattern is laid out
Such as Fig. 1, Ridge tracing is used based on taeniae plain weave area, and supplemented by the area that rocketed, area is using blue, informal voucher interval
The warp thread radical for including in arrangement mode, blue and each striped of white is respectively 5.Item is wide=and radical/through close=5/4.86=
1.02 (mm),
Purple powder and the navy of being dotted between the informal voucher of part are rocketed Qu Huajing and ground are respectively 5 through the grain pattern that rockets,
Arrangement is than being 1:1.The backing texture that rocketed figure, such as Fig. 2.The back side is cut through final finishing after weaving and floats long line, forms the imitative embroidery in front
Flower effect.
2. relative distance
One flower (i.e. one circulation) is shared blue, alternate warp thread vitta 34 white, wherein 30 indigo plants, white bars are for plain weave
Vitta, every 5 warp thread；4 vittas are through the vitta that rockets, and every includes 10 warp thread, and flower warp is between pass through whitely, ground
Through and flower through respectively be 5.
The two homochromy farthest spacing distances through the vitta that rockets are 18, and the homochromy minimum distance that rockets straggly is 15 up and down
Item,
1 vitta is divided between the not homochromy vitta that rocketed is nearest.
One flower radical=plain weave radical × 15+ is rocketed a radical × 4=5 × 30+4 × 10=190
One flower width=34 × 1.02=34.7 (mm), if spacing is too small, the clipping and carving knife of final finishing is not easy feed, and clipping and carving is tired
Difficulty, and flower is more through radical, and it is difficult to will cause weaving.
Three, main process design
1. a flower dent calculates
Because through close ratio=through the area that rockets: plain weave area=2:1, according to Ridge tracing, the every dent in plain weave area penetrate number=2
Root/tooth；The every dent in area that rocketed penetrates=4/tooth of number.
One spends the interior dent number shared by area that rockets=mono- to spend radical/every reed penetration number=10 in the flower area × 4/4=10 that rocketed.
One spends the interior plain weave area dent number not rocketed=flower every reed penetration number=150/2=in plain weave area radical/area
75。
The total flower dent number=area's number of teeth that the rocketed+plain weave area number of teeth=10+75=85.
2. average every reed penetration number
Ground tissue is averaged the flower of every reed penetration number=mono- warp thread radical/flower dent number
=(one interior plain weave radical+one is spent to spend interior through the radical that rockets)/flower number of teeth
=(30 × 5+4 × 10)/85=2.24 root/tooth.
3. finished product is averagely through close
It is average to spend width=(150+40)/34.7=547 through close (root/10cm)=mono- flower warp thread radical/mono-.
4. full width warp thread radical
According to the needs that breadth and expanding act on, if Side End Number is 44 × 2, it is known that tissue every reed penetration number that is averaged in ground is
2.375, if the every reed penetration number of side texture is 4.It is known it is average through it is close be 547 (roots/10cm), door width is 145.5cm.
Then full width total quantity of warps=547 × 145.5/10+88 × (1-2.24/4)=7996 piece.
5. splitting flower process
To guarantee to be rocketed tissue not close to selvedge in weaving, and make flower pattern symmetrical as far as possible, is processed convenient for warping, and after
It arranges and spells width, carry out splitting colored processing.
Full width spends number=(full width radical-Side End Number)/mono- flower warp thread number=(7996-88)/180=43.93, does plus spends
Subtract head processing, that is, is modified to 44 flowers, subtracts number=180 × (1-0.93)=12.It splits and spends rear Warp Tension Test:
(30+purple powder of plain weave rocketed area 10+plain weave, the 70+powder of 10+plain weave area of area 5+ navy that rocketed is purple
Color 10+plain weave area of the area 5+ navy that rocketed is rocketed the 10+plain weave 30 in area) × 44 flowers, last flower end subtracts first 12.
6. fabric breadth and denting width
Fabric breadth=Fabric width/(1- dyeing and finishing width shrinkage)=145.5/ (1- is determined according to dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%
6.5%)=156cm
The weft shrinkage and upper machine edge grinding width obtained is tested according to pioneer, determines that denting width is 156.6.
7. metric system porter
Full width dent number=full width spends × mono- flower number of teeth-of number to subtract the number of teeth=44 × 85-12/2 shared by the number of teeth shared by head+side yarn
+ 88/4=3756
Metric system porter=full width dent number/denting width=(3756/156.6) × 10=240
8. color is arranged
Color is arranged to be divided into plain weave area and through the area that rockets, a color arranged circulation such as table 1:
The arranged table of 1 color of table
According to grain pattern and split flower as a result, upper table be the arranged circulation of half pattern, i.e., one spend in have 2 identical colors arranged
Circulation.
Whitely interior white radical × spend number+Side End Number=(5 × 6+5+5) × 2 × 44+88=is spent through radical=mono-
3608
Interior navy blue radical × spend is spent count-to subtract a number=(5 × 6+5+5+5) × 2 × 44-12=through radical=mono- dark bluely
3948
Powder is pale reddish brown to spend=5 × 44=220 of interior purple powder radical × spend number through radical=mono-
Dark blue flower spends=5 × 44=220 of interior navy radical × spend number through radical=mono-
It is total: 7996, it is consistent with the calculating of aforementioned full width total quantity of warps.
Four, main production technology is crucial
This product is thin high density plain cloth, and yarn section radical is few, strength is low, wear no resistance, intertwined point is more, through close
Greatly, shed open is not easy opening or cleaning, and the local warp thread coverage coefficient of clipping and carving is more than 150%, and difficulty of weaving is big.
Due to Hua Jinghe interleaved point is widely different, and weave shrinkage difference causes warp tension different, it is necessary to by Hua Jinghe
Ground is wrapped around on different warp beams and beam of a loom, respectively warping and sizing, in drawing-in process and close, weaved using twin shaft.
Ground is more through radical, and line density is small, and using the technique of first batch warping, then sizing, flower warp density is larger, radical
It is few, preferably use sizing warper.
1. warping process
Ground is passed through when warping and flower is through warping respectively.Ground is used beam warper, then sizing, the laggard slurry row worker employed in a plant nursery that passes through
Skill, flower is through carrying out warping and sizing using sizing warper.
1.1 plain weaves through warping plain weave JC11.7tex through use Benniger (BENNINGER) ZDA high speed batch warping
Machine warping, the machine use hydraulic variable flow motor, realize that warp beam increases with winding radius and reduces revolving speed automatically, to realize
Winding tension and linear velocity constant.
The warping passed through whitely matches axis :+603 × 1 axis of 601 × 5 axis；The warping passed through dark bluely matches axis: 564 × 7 axis.
Equipment complete machine is carried out before warping, guarantees that yarn path is bright and clean, press roller is parallel with warp beam, avoids the occurrence of slack list
Axis, speed of beaming 600m/min, warp beam rolling density 0.54g/cm3, single thread dynamic operation tension 300cN.
1.2 flowers are less through radical through warping and sizing flower, using SGA800 warping sizing machine, independent slitting sizing drying
Afterwards, then through swift it rewinds and closes and be made into beam of a loom with warping, then collective one by one, since flower weaver's web radical is less, slitting is whole
The band number of warp is unsuitable very few, to guarantee that band uniformly dispersing, every strand radical are set as 110, take 4 strands warp thread one by one on beam of a loom,
Every strand inner powder purple and navy warp thread press 1:1 in bobbin cradle and arrange cylinder.When to guarantee weaving, flower is evenly distributed, and avoids oblique pull
Line.
Beam of a loom breadth (cm)=denting width+2=156+2=158；
Grade bars porter selects 28, then,
Hua Jing uses pure PVA, and 70 DEG C of medium temperature starchings can be effective since sizing coverage coefficient is small, and PVA good film-forming property
Increase sizing hairiness patch volt rate and sizing wear resistant, especially has especially for the very big consolidation zone through rocketing of fabric compactness
Benefit.
2. sizing operation
Due to JC11.7tex more through radical, warping needs 13 axis, and warp thread line density is small, and ground is through single using GA308 seven
First dual-box slasher starching, it is therefore an objective to reduce sizing coverage coefficient, increase is impregnated with and is coated, patch volt filoplume, sizing technique road
Line: " be coated again, ask and be impregnated with, first gently press, in weight, high concentration, low viscosity protect resurgence, and subdivision twists, tightly winding ".Slurry formula:
PVA-1799:25kg, CD-DF515C:50kg, CD-PT:20kg, CD-52:5kg.Survey slurries solid content 12.6%, the rate of sizing
13.3%, regain 7.2%, serum viscosity 8.8 seconds (funnel water number 3.7 seconds), warp beam side pressure grouting roller pressure 7KN, drying chamber side
16KN。
Due to being slice interval grain pattern fabric, color separation top and bottom process is used through slurry row's flower, white warp thread is 6 axis, under twisted wire
Layer, dark blue warp thread is 7 axis, on upper layer, with dark blue is walked different stock tanks respectively whitely, can be effectively prevented and pass through whitely
By dark bluely through the staining problem in stock tank.Color row time is determined with color separation twisted wire spinner of being separately convenient for gaiting before sizing doffing
Sequence does not arrange flower pattern at this method sizing machine front stretching reed, freely falls reed, high production efficiency.
3. gaiting and line version
Since ground is more through radical, line density is small, and plain weave is frequent, between reducing warp thread, between warp thread and heald
Friction, reduces disconnected warp, ground used page 4 it is comprehensive to reduce heald density.Order of gaiting is as follows: 16 × (1,2,3,4), and 1,5,2,6,
3,5,4,6,1,5,2,3,4,1,2,3,7,4,8,1,7,2,8,3,7,4,16 × (1,2,3,4), 1,9,2,10,3,9,4,10,
1,9,2,3,4,1,2,3,11,4,12,1,11,2,12,3,11,4。
Line domain such as Fig. 3.
4. weaving
Using ZA209 air-jet loom, dual beams comprehensive weavings of page 12, wherein by the more plain weave in intertwined point be through 1-4 pages it is comprehensive,
To reduce end breakage rate, flower is through comprehensive at 5-12 pages, and ground beam of a loom is under, and using the adjustable type warp let-off of setting tension, flower beam of a loom is adopted upper
With the passive warp let-off, twin shaft weaving can guarantee uniform tension in order when body warp and Hua Jing weaving yarns, if using uniaxial weaving, Hua Jing
It can relax since intertwined point is few, menopause tablet tenesmus is cut-off without reason.
Since kind tightness is big, beating-up force also requires greatly, high density fabric, which is open, to be not easy clearly, the higher back rest of use, larger
Tension, the technique being more early open.Using higher back beam height, so that top line tension is slightly loose, is conducive to Dense Poplin class and knits
Object warp thread is bringing together, is conducive to eliminate open reed；Lower layer warp yarns tension is big, is conducive to urgent weft yarn, but the back rest is unsuitable excessively high,
Otherwise lower layer's overtension is easy to cause and carefully specially breaks end through weaving yarns.Finally determine that back beam height is set as+9 lattice, back rest front and back
Position is set as+2 lattice.Warp stop frame height is set as -3 lattice, 9 lattice of front-rear position, and warp stop frame forward position has a down dip, make comprehensive usually yarn sheet with
There is the distance of 3mm in warp stop frame forward position, guarantees that yarn sheet has certain jitter, reduces flyings and gathers on yarn sheet.
Warp tension is set as 1560N, and opening time is set to 295 °, and opening is conducive to opening or cleaning shed open earlier, shuttle when wefting insertion
Open height is big, advantageously reduces the looped weft fault that high sley fabric is also easy to produce.Weft insertion technique uses " wefting insertion in low pressure " technique, main
Power 0.26MPa is sprayed, auxiliary jet presses 0.32MPa.
90 ° -180 ° of main jet, keep off 90 ° -120 ° of yarn needle；The 1st group 100 ° -180 ° of pilot jet, the 2nd group 120 ° -200 °, the 3rd
140 ° -220 °, the 4th group 160 ° -260 ° of group.240 ° of weft yarn angle of arrival, in order to avoid weft yarn generates side in shed open contralateral withdrawal
The injecting time of the 4th group of pilot jet is appropriately extended to 260 ° in looped weft.
Reverse side such as Fig. 4 before the non-clipping and carving of fabric is spent, fabric face such as Fig. 5 before non-clipping and carving, fabric appearance benefit is as schemed after clipping and carving
6。
The present invention designs woven thin high density through to imitative embroidered fabric, the following process technology key of main attention:
It is difficult that 1. the section that rockets through clipping and carving away from unsuitable too small, otherwise will cause carving machine feed, meanwhile, spacing is too small,
The area that rocketed is overstocked, also will increase fabric difficulty of weaving；Spacing is too big, influence it is decorative simultaneously, flower it is very few through radical, flower knit
Beamed warp is excessively dilute, is unfavorable for warp thread and is uniformly distributed on floral axis and causes tension irregular.
2. flower warp density is higher than mainthread density, flower area's density wants high, so that villus is plentiful after clipping and carving.
3. using twin shaft weaving mode, if flower warp radical is very few, section warping, the warp thread of warping sizing machine can be used
Mode.
4. when thin specially warp yarn sizing, it should be noted that coating filoplume increases wearability when weaving, and weaving process focuses on opening or cleaning
Shed open reduces " open reed ", " looped weft " fault.
Claims (3)
1. the design method that a kind of thin high density imitates embroidered fabric, it is characterised in that: specific design is as follows:
1. yarn design: fabric yarn is divided into body warp and flower warp thread and weft yarn；
A. body warp and weft yarn design: ground warp, weft yarn use 11.7tex Xinjiang Long staple cotton combed yarn, the body warp not rocketed and
Weft yarns constitute fabric body；JC11.7tex single thread is averaged ultimate strength as 185cN, and strength irregularity 11.5%, item is done
CV 14.3%, 15/km of details, 45/km of slubbing, 97/km of cotton knot；
B. spend warp thread design: flower is used the higher C18.2tex carded cotton yarn of line density, most of after flower warp thread final finishing
It is wiped out, therefore dry, details, cotton knot are of less demanding to item；Warp thread is averaged ultimate strength as 273cN；
Specifically: combinations of warps JC11.7+18.2tex；Body warp is JC11.7tex, and flower warp thread is 18.2tex；Body warp point
Cloth is not rocketing between region and the flower warp in the region that rockets；In the region that rockets, Hua Jing: ground warp=1:1；
2. fabric compactness designs: fabric body be the plain weave not rocketed ground portion, thus designs the ground tissue that does not rocket through to tightness
Ej=61.5%, broadwise tightness Ew=43.4%；
3. Density designs:
A. area is through close: through to tightnessI.e. Obtain finished product through close Pj=486 root/10cm；
B. it spends Qu Jingmi: reducing ground warp through the area that rockets in order to increase flower through improving flower and being shown rate to adjacent coverage effect
Show rate, the density in flower area more regional should double, and Ze Hua Qu Jingmi reaches 972/10cm；
Although flower area through very big to tightness, flower warp thread is in
Overlap condition, but since flower is only in bonding region and weft yarns, rest part is floated long line in what is do not interweaved
State, therefore fabric integral weaving difficulty will not be increased considerably；
C. pick count: the requirement for being 43.5% according to broadwise tightness determines filling density Pw=343/10cm；
4. fabric width: being required according to tailoring, determine that Fabric width is 145.5cm；
5. dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric designs: Ridge tracing is locally decorated with the imitative embroidery effect formed through clipping and carving based on plane；On color
Purple powder and dark blue dyeing defect warp are embedded on Lan Bai alternate slice, the flower pattern of dark blue and the pale reddish brown warp of powder clipping and carving requires wrong up and down
Fall, left and right is adjacent, responds to and cooperate with each other across a great distance, and sees thinly scattered in exquisiteness, have in existing agile, plane in peace and quiet three-dimensional lofty "；
6. main process design is as follows:
A. a flower dent calculates
Because through close ratio=through the area that rockets: plain weave area=2:1, according to Ridge tracing, the every dent in plain weave area penetrate number=2/teeth；
The every dent in area that rocketed penetrates=4/tooth of number；
One spends the interior dent number shared by area that rockets=mono- to spend radical/every reed penetration number=10 in the flower area × 4/4=10 that rocketed；
One spends the interior plain weave area dent number not rocketed=flower every reed penetration number=150/2=75 in plain weave area radical/area；
The total flower dent number=area's number of teeth that the rocketed+plain weave area number of teeth=10+75=85；
B. average every reed penetration number
Ground tissue is averaged the flower of every reed penetration number=mono- warp thread radical/flower dent number
=(one interior plain weave radical+one is spent to spend interior through the radical that rockets)/flower number of teeth
=(30 × 5+4 × 10)/85=2.24 root/tooth；
C. finished product is averagely through close
It is average to spend width=(150+40)/34.7=547 through close (root/10cm)=mono- flower warp thread radical/mono-；
D. full width warp thread radical
According to the needs that breadth and expanding act on, if Side End Number is 44 × 2, it is known that tissue every reed penetration number that is averaged in ground is
2.375, if the every reed penetration number of side texture is 4.It is known it is average through it is close be 547 (roots/10cm), door width is 145.5cm；Then full width is total
Through radical=547 × 145.5/10+88 × (1-2.24/4)=7996 piece；
E. flower process is split
To guarantee to be rocketed tissue not close to selvedge in weaving, and make flower pattern symmetrical as far as possible, convenient for warping processing and final finishing
Width is spelled, carries out splitting colored processing；
Full width spends number=(full width radical-Side End Number)/mono- flower warp thread number=(7996-88)/180=43.93, does plus flower subtracts head
Processing is modified to 44 flowers, subtracts number=180 × (1-0.93)=12；It splits and spends rear Warp Tension Test:
(30+purple powder of plain weave rocketed 10+plain weave area of area 5+ navy rocketed area's 10+plain weave, 70+purple powder warp
10+plain weave area of the area 5+ navy that rockets is rocketed the 10+plain weave 30 in area) × 44 flowers, last flower end subtracts first 12；
F. fabric breadth and denting width
Fabric breadth=Fabric width/(1- dyeing and finishing width shrinkage)=145.5/ (1-6.5%) is determined according to dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%
=156cm；
The weft shrinkage and upper machine edge grinding width obtained is tested according to pioneer, determines that denting width is 156.6；
G. metric system porter
Full width dent number=full width spends × mono- flower number of teeth-of number to subtract the number of teeth=44 × 85-12/2+88/ shared by the number of teeth shared by head+side yarn
4=3756；
Metric system porter=full width dent number/denting width=(3756/156.6) × 10=240.
2. the design method that thin high density according to claim 1 imitates embroidered fabric, it is characterised in that: the dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric
In design, grain pattern layout are as follows: Ridge tracing uses based on taeniae plain weave area, and supplemented by the area that rocketed, area is using between blue, informal voucher
Every arrangement mode, the warp thread radical for including in blue and each striped of white is respectively 5；Item is wide=radical/through it is close=5/
4.86=1.02mm, purple powder and the navy of being dotted between the informal voucher of part are through the grain pattern that rockets, and rocketed Qu Huajing and ground are through each
It is 5, arrangement is than being 1:1；The back side is cut through final finishing after weaving and floats long line, forms the imitative embroidery effect in front.
3. the design method that thin high density according to claim 1 imitates embroidered fabric, it is characterised in that: the dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric
In design, relative distance an are as follows: flower (i.e. one circulation) is shared blue, alternate warp thread vitta 34 white, wherein 30 indigo plants, whites
Item for plain weave vitta, every 5 warp thread；4 vittas are through the vitta that rockets, and every includes 10 warp thread, and flower is through embedded in white
Between ground warp, ground warp and flower are respectively 5；
The two homochromy farthest spacing distances through the vitta that rockets are 18, and the homochromy minimum distance that rockets straggly is 15 up and down；
1 vitta is divided between the not homochromy vitta that rocketed is nearest；
One flower radical=plain weave radical × 15+ is rocketed a radical × 4=5 × 30+4 × 10=190；
One flower width=34 × 1.02=34.7mm.
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| CN110607593A (en) * | 2019-10-23 | 2019-12-24 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Design method and production process of facial expression bag fabric |
| CN111607876A (en) * | 2020-05-29 | 2020-09-01 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Preparation method of fabric with ethnic style |
| CN111693680A (en) * | 2020-04-25 | 2020-09-22 | 平顶山神马帘子布发展有限公司 | Method for measuring full-width warp density of gum-dipped cord fabric and method for improving warp density uniformity |
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| CN109537135A (en) * | 2018-12-18 | 2019-03-29 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of part rockets the design method and textile processes of fabric |
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| CN111693680A (en) * | 2020-04-25 | 2020-09-22 | 平顶山神马帘子布发展有限公司 | Method for measuring full-width warp density of gum-dipped cord fabric and method for improving warp density uniformity |
| CN111607876A (en) * | 2020-05-29 | 2020-09-01 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Preparation method of fabric with ethnic style |
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