CN106544775A - A kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth - Google Patents
A kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth Download PDFInfo
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- CN106544775A CN106544775A CN201610909584.3A CN201610909584A CN106544775A CN 106544775 A CN106544775 A CN 106544775A CN 201610909584 A CN201610909584 A CN 201610909584A CN 106544775 A CN106544775 A CN 106544775A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
- D03D3/08—Arched, corrugated, or like fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth, comprises the steps:(1) winder;(2) warping;(3) sizing;And axle (4);(5) pass;(6) weave.The technique of the present invention is around the difference formulation for increasing ground Jing, the warp run-in of bubble Jing, increase tightening weft resistance is to increase one of Main Means of bubble effect, therefore we are when Seersucker processed is knitted, technique is arranged around increase tightening weft resistance, by steeping the series of measures such as Jing small tension receiving coils, late opening, the low back rest, increase shed open depth, solve and how to control bubble and compare problem, achieve preferable effect, the efficiency of loom is all more than 88%, best board efficiency has reached 93%, achieves preferable economic benefit.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to field of textiles, and in particular to a kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth.
Background technology
Seersucker fabric surface irregularity, it is few with skin contact, can feel to divulge information when summer wears, breathe freely, feel nice and cool,
Appearance of fabrics is made to form the bubble bar and figured stripe pattern of distinctness plus figured texture weave, flower-shape is novel, and third dimension is strong, is widely used in
Summer clothes.
It is single by ground bubble Jing, Jing thickness it is different, bubble ratio not over 1.06 because more than 1.06, also implying that
During weaving, the elongation of body warp must be over more than 6%, produces 6% retraction, be only possible to produce 1.06 under fabric after machine
Bubble ratio.When body warp elongation is more than 6%, broken end can be very serious.Into good seersucker is steeped, its bubble ratio can not be less than
1.2, promoting to steep than increased main method is:When knitting seersucker processed, control bubble Jing, Jing different warp run-ins.
In order to form bubble, technological design is carried out in terms of three often:(1) steep warp thread thicker than body warp one times, (2) bubble
Warp thread is identical with body warp thickness, and bubble Jing density is twice, (3) twin shaft weaving, there is provided different warp run-ins.Bubble Jing is thick, or bubble
Jing density is big, and the tightness for steeping fabric at Jing is just big, and during beating, tightening weft resistance is big, and bubble warp thread can be moved to fell direction with weft yarn
Dynamic, through repeatedly beating, weft yarn can just be fixed up, and bubble ratio will increase;When twin shaft is weaved, bubble Jing warp run-ins are big, and filling density is little,
At ground Jing, filling density is big, and at bubble Jing, fabric will produce concavo-convex, formation bubble.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention:In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the invention provides a kind of production all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard
The process of cloth.
Technical scheme:A kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth, comprises the steps:
(1) winder
From 1332M type bobbin-winding machines, winding speed is 520m/min, and the weight of influence of winding tension packing ring is 7.4 grams, is guarantee
The quality of yarn, it is desirable to using hand held air splicer joint;
(2) warping
Using GA121 type beam warpers, in 380m/min, using collective's creeling, tension in Warping divides for speed of beaming control
Area control, before being divided in after three regions, 40SDuring body warp warping, packing ring weight in proparea is 10g, middle area 9g, back zone 8g;40S/
During 2 bubble Jing warpings, proparea packing ring weight is 13g, and middle area 12g, back zone 11g, side yarn are 40SSingle line, tension force are 11g;
Assorted warp thread total quantity of warps is as follows:Ground Jing bleached yarns 2226, including 48 side yarns, grey dyeing defect Jing 1962, in vain
Color bubble Jing 872,40SBleached yarn 2226, takes 4 axles, is 556*2+557*2 with axle, and grey dyeing defect Jing 1962 takes 4 axles,
With axle be 490*2+491*2, white bubble Jing 872, take 2 axles, with axle be 436*2,10 axles of total number of axle;
(3) sizing
Warp thread is cotton yarn, does not use PVA slurries, can meet production requirement, and formula of size is:Converted starch 70kg,
AS-02 slurry 30kg, size mixing 750L, relative viscosity 10-11S, the rate of sizing 12%, and squeezing roller pressure adopts front heavy rear light industry skill,
Front squeezing roller pressure be 16KN, post jacking roller pressure be 10KN, 98 DEG C of sizing temperature, sizing speed 48m/min;Yarn during sizing
There are two kinds of colors, bleached yarn is placed on upper strata, and grey yarn is placed on lower floor, and middle twisted wire separates;
And axle (4)
Bubble warp thread is 40S/ 2 strands, it is not necessary to starching, two bubble warp beams are merged into a bubble axle on warp rebeaming machine;
(5) pass
The total quantity of warps of this fabric is 5060, and during weaving, menopause tablet uses 4 rows;From the rule of menopause tablet row
It is:When total quantity of warps >=6000~7000 piece, menopause tablet uses 5 rows;And during total quantity of warps >=8000 piece, menopause tablet then uses 6 rows;
During less than 6000 yarns, menopause tablet uses 4 rows;
Heald density:By the analysis to fabric tissue, comprehensive number of pages is page 16, and the warp thread of different motion rule has 12 kinds,
Wherein with page 10, with page 2, plain weave is with page 4 for bubble for jacquard weave;1st~2 is comprehensive, steeps Jing 436;3rd~4 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 556
Root;5th~6 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 557;7th is comprehensive, grey dyeing defect Jing 981;8th~16 is comprehensive, and every page of heald is 109;
Order of gaiting is as follows:(3,4,5,6) × 2,3,4,7,8,7,9,7,10,7,11,7,12,7,13,7,14,7,15,
7,16, (5,6,3,4) × 2,5,6, (1,2) × 4;
(6) weave
The selection of type:From GA747 rapier looms, bubble Jing is sent by frictional force, as speed is low, be conducive to shed open clear
It is clear, profit is formed with to knitting, production efficiency can obtain preferable economic interests all more than 88%;
Twin shaft is weaved:Have three kinds of yarns in this fabric, wherein Jing and Hua Jing 40SSingle thread, the intertwined point of ground Jing and Hua Jing
Number of times difference is not too big, and using same beam of a loom, the Jing crimps of bubble warp thread are 1.34 times that body warp is knitted, Jing weave shrinkages difference
It is very big, need twin shaft to weave, warp beam uses original let-off motion, flower warp beam to be mounted in the top of warp beam, flower beam head
Distance away from the back rest is about 8-10cm, controls the warp let-off using friction;
Bubble Jing will be placed on heald frame proparea:When this fabric knits processed, bubble Jing is comprehensive using 1-2 pieces, if bubble Jing radicals are more, needs
It is comprehensive using page 4, before use page 4 it is comprehensive;Steeping the reason for Jing is placed on proparea is:Bubble Jing tension force is smaller, and shed open is difficult clearly, bubble
It is before Jing is placed on, clearly favourable to steeping Jing shed opens;When bubble warp thread is comprehensive more than page 4, shed open is difficult to opening or cleaning, and difficulty of weaving can be very big,
Therefore, steep Jing do not exceed page 4 it is comprehensive;
The control of bubble ratio:In process of production, 10cm is measured forward from fell, mark on body warp, setting bubble
Than for 1.34, then again from fell, measuring forward 13.4cm, make on bubble warp thread on mark, driving test weaving checks mark, such as
Mark on fruit bubble Jing and body warp just overlaps on cloth cover, and bubble ratio meets the requirements, if the mark on seersucker is to the rear, explanation
Bubble needs to reduce spring force than less than normal, if the mark on seersucker is to the front, steeps than bigger than normal, needs to reduce spring force;Bubble
Than will just can determine that after repeatedly comparing;In production process, bubble respectively will be measured once than sooner or later, according to bubble than size, at any time
Adjust bubble Jing, Jing tension force;
The speed of loom:The conventional speed of GA747 looms has jacquard weave group in 180-200 speeds r/min in this fabric tissue
Knit, steep tissue, more complicated, it is clear that opening is difficult, therefore relatively low speed will be used, determine that speed is 185r/min;
Evening opening:310 ° of opening time, opening are early, and weft yarn is easily urgent, and the backwash of fell is little, unfavorable to forming bubble,
Opening time is slower, and weft yarn is more difficult urgent, and after repeatedly beating up, weft yarn can just be fixed up, and bubble effect is good;But it is open
Time, shed open was difficult clearly late, affected wefting insertion, by test weaving, determined that opening time is 310 °;
Late wefting insertion:85 ° are entered sword, when GA747 looms knit conventional variety processed, general to enter sword, this fabric system of knitting using 75 ° more
When, late opening process is on the one hand employed, it is on the other hand, little due to steeping Jing tension force, when knitting processed, at selvedge, it is also easy to produce three jump defects
Point, suitably postponed into the sword time so that shed open effective depth increase when entering sword, to solve three jump faults;
Stroke of harness frames:When this fabric knits processed, the stroke of harness frames of body warp keeps constant, and the stroke of harness frames for steeping axle suitably increases
Plus, making bubble warp thread to the distance of slay by 1.6-3mm, drop to 0-0.5mm, after the stroke of harness frames of seersucker increases, bubble warp thread can
Can be with slay friction but little due to steeping Jing tension force, warp run-in is big, therefore slay to the friction of warp thread to steep the impact of Jing compared with
It is little, increase bubble Jing after stroke of harness frames, clearly favourable to shed open, big due to steeping Jing stroke of harness frames, bubble Jing and ground Jing is not in same layer
On face, the friction of bubble Jing and ground Jing is reduced;
Warp tension:The tension weight of a 5kg, the elastic force of tension spring are configured on the tension weight hammer stem on loom both sides respectively
Control bigger than normal, warp tension are big, and weft yarn is difficult urgent, and to favourable into bubble, GA747 weaving-machine tension induction mechanisms are mechanical
, in production process, with the reduction of beam of a loom, upper woven power gradually can increase, and be responsible for the technique person of technique, and early, evening will be examined
The width in Chubb face, the width for controlling cloth cover is, between 154-156cm, if it find that cloth cover is partially narrow, will to turn machine in time down
Tension force;
The low back rest:When conventional variety knits processed, back beam height 70mm belongs to the high back rest, when knitting seersucker fabric processed, adopt
The low back rest, the back rest are low, and weft yarn is difficult urgent, and fell backwash is big, and bubble effect is good, by repetition test, back beam height by 70mm,
Drop to 105mm;
Shed open depth:Shed open depth is big, and during beating, warp thread movement is big, is unfavorable for urgent weft yarn, is conducive to fabric to bubble,
When this fabric knits processed, warp stop frame in elongated slot centre position, is moved to outermost position, makes shed open depth reach maximization by conventional
Position, it is favourable to bubbling.
As optimization:The fabric ground Jing of production is 40SBleached yarn, jacquard weave part is by grey 40SSingle thread is constituted, white 40S/2
Doublet cord constitutes bubble Jing, and bubble Jing individually into axle, is weaved using twin shaft;Weft yarn is 40SMonochromatic plus white yarn.
As optimization:The trimmed size of the fabric is as follows:The fabric width of finished product is 146cm, and finished product thread count is 346
Root/10cm × 275 piece/10cm, Jing weave shrinkages:7.7%, latitude weave shrinkage:5.4%, the contracting of dyeing and finishing length:6%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage:
6.5%.
Beneficial effect:The technique of the present invention is around the difference formulation for increasing ground Jing, the warp run-in of bubble Jing, increase beating
Resistance is to increase one of Main Means of bubble effect, therefore we are when Seersucker processed is knitted, and technique is beaten around increase
What latitude resistance was arranged, by steeping the series of measures such as Jing small tension receiving coils, late opening, the low back rest, increase shed open depth, how solve
Control bubble achieves preferable effect than problem, and all more than 88%, best board efficiency reaches the efficiency of loom
93%, achieve preferable economic benefit.
The present invention adds jacquard weave element on the basis of traditional seersucker, makes appearance of fabrics form bubble bar and the jacquard weave of distinctness
Stripe, flower-shape are novel, and third dimension is strong.Used as the cloth textile of summer, the fabric has thin refreshing, sweat proof, washable, resistance to day
Shine, moisture absorption and dissipate it is wet the features such as.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of the present invention.
Specific embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment
During this Fabric Design, ground Jing is 40SBleached yarn, jacquard weave part is by grey 40SSingle thread is constituted, white 40S/ 2 doublet cords
Bubble Jing is constituted, bubble Jing individually into axle, is weaved using twin shaft.Weft yarn is 40SMonochromatic plus white yarn.Fabric Design specification:Fabric fabric width
155cm, total quantity of warps 5060, it is 324/10 ㎝ that fabric Jing is close.Upper 164 ㎝ of machine reed width, in a flower circulation, grey jacquard weave portion
Dividing has 18 warp thread, and there are 8 warp thread bubble bar part, and there are 20 warp thread plain weave part, often spends 46 yarns, enters per reed penetration number 2, often
Several 23 teeth of flower dent, it is few 2 that full width spends number 109 to spend.Warp thread dyed yarn is circulated:40SBleached yarn 10,40SGrey gauze broche 18,
40SBleached yarn 10,40S/ 2 white bubble Jing 8.Weft yarn is white to add.The total quantity of warps of assorted warp thread is:Bleached yarn 2226
(including 48, side yarn), grey dyeing defect Jing 1962, white bubble Jing 872.The looming draft of fabric is as shown in Figure 1.
The production procedure of the present invention is as follows:
1 winder
From 1332M type bobbin-winding machines.High performance automation bobbin-winding machine is not selected, but has selected domestic 1332M
Type bobbin-winding machine.This is because the yarn defect of the dyed yarn bought back, has been removed by, during winder, the quality of yarn has met requirement.Network
Yarn speed is 520m/min, and the weight of influence of winding tension packing ring is 7.4 grams.To ensure the quality of yarn, it is desirable to empty using hand-held
Gas splicer joint.
2 warpings
Using GA121 type beam warpers, the conventional speed of beaming of the type machine in 300-500m/min, this fabric system of knitting
When speed of beaming control in 380m/min, using collective's creeling, tension in Warping zonal control, before being divided in after three regions,
40SDuring body warp warping, proparea packing ring weight for 10g, middle area 9g, back zone 8g;40SDuring/2 bubble Jing warpings, proparea packing ring weight
For 13g, middle area 12g, back zone 11g, side yarn are 40SSingle line, tension force are 11g.
Assorted warp thread total quantity of warps:Ground Jing bleached yarns 2226 (including 48 side yarns), grey dyeing defect Jing 1962, white bubble
Jing 872,40SBleached yarn 2226, takes 4 axles, is 556*2+557*2 with axle, and grey dyeing defect Jing 1962 takes 4 axles, with axle
For 490*2+491*2, white bubble Jing 872 takes 2 axles, is 436*2 with axle, 10 axles of total number of axle.
3 sizing
Warp thread is cotton yarn, does not use PVA slurries, can meet production requirement.Formula of size is:Converted starch 70kg,
AS-02 slurry 30kg, size mixing 750L, relative viscosity 10-11S, the rate of sizing 12%, and squeezing roller pressure adopts front heavy rear light industry skill,
Front squeezing roller pressure be 16KN, post jacking roller pressure be 10KN, 98 DEG C of sizing temperature.Sizing speed 48m/min.
Sizing speed can not be too fast, this is because the rate of sizing is higher, after sizing, yarn adhesion is more, and speed is easily caused disconnected soon
Head.
Sizing requires to be impregnated with, it is coating lay equal stress on, front squeezing roller pressure 16KN, pressure are larger, be in order to be preferably impregnated with,
Post jacking roller pressure, it is less than normal, it is preferably coating in order to obtain.
During sizing, yarn has two kinds of colors, and bleached yarn is placed on upper strata, and grey yarn is placed on lower floor, and middle twisted wire separates.
4 and axle
Bubble warp thread is 40S/ 2 strands, it is not necessary to starching, two bubble warp beams are merged into a bubble axle on warp rebeaming machine.
5 pass
The total quantity of warps of this fabric is 5060, and during weaving, menopause tablet uses 4 rows;From the rule of menopause tablet row
It is:When total quantity of warps >=6000~7000 piece, menopause tablet uses 5 rows;And during total quantity of warps >=8000 piece, menopause tablet then uses 6 rows;
During less than 6000 yarns, menopause tablet uses 4 rows.
Heald density:By the analysis to fabric tissue, comprehensive number of pages is page 16, and the warp thread of different motion rule has 12 kinds,
Wherein with page 10, with page 2, plain weave is with page 4 for bubble for jacquard weave.1st~2 is comprehensive, steeps Jing 436;3rd~4 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 556
Root;5th~6 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 557;7th is comprehensive, grey dyeing defect Jing 981;8th~16 is comprehensive, and every page of heald is 109.
Order of gaiting is as follows:(3,4,5,6) × 2,3,4,7,8,7,9,7,10,7,11,7,12,7,13,7,14,7,15,
7,16, (5,6,3,4) × 2,5,6, (1,2) × 4.
6 weavings
The selection of type:From GA747 rapier looms.When knitting seersucker fabric processed, if using the air-jet loom system of knitting, needed
Air-jet loom is transformed, a set of electronic warp feeding mechanism, for installing the earth's axis, another steeps axle by frictional force control, knits
When processed, little due to steeping Jing tension force, shed open side yarn has adhesion, and during production, to stop platform rate higher for short latitude;It is woven using heavenly steed rapier loom
When processed, ground Jing is steeped via frictional force control equally by electronic warp feeding mechanism controls, and as speed is higher, the defect that breaks during weaving is more.
When knitting processed from GA747 looms, also rely on frictional force and send bubble Jing, as speed is low, is conducive to shed open clear, is formed with to knitting
Profit, production efficiency can obtain preferable economic interests all more than 88%.Thus select GA747 looms.
Twin shaft is weaved:Have three kinds of yarns in this fabric, wherein Jing and Hua Jing 40SSingle thread, the intertwined point of ground Jing and Hua Jing
Number of times difference is not too big, using same beam of a loom.The Jing crimps of bubble warp thread are 1.34 times that body warp is knitted, and Jing weave shrinkages are differed
It is very big, need twin shaft to weave.Warp beam uses original let-off motion, flower warp beam to be mounted in the top of warp beam, flower beam head
Distance away from the back rest is about 8-10cm, controls the warp let-off using friction.
Bubble Jing will be placed on heald frame proparea.When this fabric knits processed, bubble Jing is comprehensive using 1-2 pieces, if bubble Jing radicals are more, needs
It is comprehensive using page 4, before use page 4 it is comprehensive;Steeping the reason for Jing is placed on proparea is:Bubble Jing tension force is smaller, and shed open is difficult clearly, bubble
It is before Jing is placed on, clearly favourable to steeping Jing shed opens.When bubble warp thread is comprehensive more than page 4, shed open is difficult to opening or cleaning, and difficulty of weaving can be very big,
Therefore, steep Jing do not exceed page 4 it is comprehensive.
The control of bubble ratio:Bubble axle is to control the warp let-off by frictional force, and frictional force is the elastic force by spring, control bubble
Than being exactly mainly the elastic force for controlling spring.
In process of production, 10cm is measured forward from fell, mark on body warp.Setting bubble ratio is 1.34, so
Afterwards again from fell, 13.4cm is measured forward, the mark on work on bubble warp thread, driving test weaving check mark, if bubble Jing and ground Jing
Mark on yarn just overlaps on cloth cover, and bubble ratio meets the requirements, if the mark on seersucker is to the rear, illustrates to steep than less than normal, needs
Spring force to be reduced, if the mark on seersucker is to the front, steeps than bigger than normal, needs to reduce spring force.Bubble ratio will be through more
It is secondary compare after, just can determine that.In production process, bubble respectively will be measured once than sooner or later, according to bubble than size, adjust at any time bubble Jing,
The tension force of ground Jing.
The speed of loom:The conventional speed of GA747 looms has jacquard weave group in 180-200 speeds r/min in this fabric tissue
Knit, steep tissue, more complicated, it is clear that opening is difficult, therefore will use relatively low speed.Determine that speed is 185r/min.
Evening opening:310 ° of opening time, opening are early, and weft yarn is easily urgent, and the backwash of fell is little, unfavorable to forming bubble,
Opening time is slower, and weft yarn is more difficult urgent, and after repeatedly beating up, weft yarn can just be fixed up, and bubble effect is good.But it is open
Time, shed open was difficult clearly late, affected wefting insertion.By test weaving, determine that opening time is 310 degree.
Late wefting insertion, 85 ° are entered sword.It is when GA747 looms knit conventional variety processed, general to enter sword, this fabric system of knitting using 75 ° more
When, late opening process is on the one hand employed, it is on the other hand, little due to steeping Jing tension force, when knitting processed, at selvedge, it is also easy to produce three jump defects
Point, suitably postponed into the sword time so that shed open effective depth increase when entering sword, to solve three jump faults.
Stroke of harness frames:The conventional variety system of knitting, during shed open full gate, the distance of body warp to slay is 1.6-3mm, this distance
Greatly, shed open effective depth is little, unfavorable to wefting insertion apart from little, and shed open effective depth is just big, is conducive to wefting insertion.This distance can not mistake
Little, little warp thread may produce friction with slay, make yarn fluff, can cause broken end when serious.When this fabric knits processed, ground Jing
The stroke of harness frames of yarn keeps constant, and the stroke of harness frames for steeping axle suitably increases, and makes bubble warp thread to the distance of slay by 1.6-3mm, drops
To 0-0.5mm.After the stroke of harness frames of seersucker increases, bubble warp thread may be with slay friction, but due to little, the warp let-off of steeping Jing tension force
Amount is big, therefore impact of the slay to the friction of warp thread to bubble Jing is less.Increase and steep Jing after stroke of harness frames, it is clearly favourable to shed open.
Big due to steeping Jing stroke of harness frames, bubble Jing and ground Jing reduces the friction of bubble Jing and ground Jing not in same aspect.
Warp tension:The tension weight of a 5kg, the elastic force of tension spring are configured on the tension weight hammer stem on loom both sides respectively
Control bigger than normal, warp tension are big, weft yarn be difficult it is urgent, to favourable into bubble.GA747 weaving-machine tension induction mechanisms are mechanical
, in production process, with the reduction of beam of a loom, upper woven power gradually can increase, and be responsible for the technique person of technique, and early, evening will be examined
The width in Chubb face, the width for controlling cloth cover is, between 154-156cm, if it find that cloth cover is partially narrow, will to turn machine in time down
Tension force.
The warp tension of bubble Jing, bubble Jing tension force are little, during beating, steep relaxed, and it is better than effect to steep, but bubble Jing tension force can not be too
Little, bubble Jing tension force is little, can cause to steep the gate assignment problem on Jing, cause stop over to cut-off by mistake.Bubble Jing tension force is not causing menopause to close
In the case of car, it is advisable with little.
The low back rest:When conventional variety knits processed, back beam height 70mm belongs to the high back rest.When knitting seersucker fabric processed, adopt
The low back rest, the back rest are low, and weft yarn is difficult urgent, and fell backwash is big, and bubble effect is good, by repetition test, back beam height by 70mm,
Drop to 105mm.
Shed open depth:Shed open depth is big, and during beating, warp thread movement is big, is unfavorable for urgent weft yarn, is conducive to fabric to bubble.
When this fabric knits processed, warp stop frame in elongated slot centre position, is moved to outermost position, makes shed open depth reach maximization by conventional
Position, it is favourable to bubbling.
The trimmed size of the fabric that the present invention is produced is as follows:The fabric width of finished product is 146cm, and finished product thread count is 346
Root/10cm × 275 piece/10cm.Jing weave shrinkages:7.7% latitude weave shrinkage:5.4% dyeing and finishing length contracts:6% dyeing and finishing width shrinkage:6.5%.
Appearance of fabrics is presented obvious jacquard weave and bubble stripe:Grey jacquard weave part, flower-shape are clear, complete;Bubble part, steeps bar
It is prominent, there is third dimension, suitably make summer clothes.
When this fabric knits processed, technique is all around the difference formulation for increasing ground Jing, the warp run-in of bubble Jing, increase beating resistance
Power is to increase one of Main Means of bubble effect, therefore we are when Seersucker processed is knitted, and technique is all around increase beating
What resistance was arranged, by steeping the series of measures such as Jing small tension receiving coils, late opening, the low back rest, increase shed open depth, solve and how to control
System bubble achieves preferable effect than problem, and all more than 88%, best board efficiency has reached 93% to the efficiency of loom,
Achieve preferable economic benefit.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, and anyone can show that other are various under the enlightenment of the present invention
The product of form, however, make any change in its shape or structure, it is every with skill identical or similar to the present application
Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (3)
1. a kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth, it is characterised in that:Comprise the steps:
(1) winder
From 1332M type bobbin-winding machines, winding speed is 520m/min, and the weight of influence of winding tension packing ring is 7.4 grams, is to ensure yarn
Quality, it is desirable to using hand held air splicer joint;
(2) warping
Using GA121 type beam warpers, speed of beaming is controlled in 380m/min, using collective's creeling, tension in Warping subregion control
System, before being divided in after three regions, 40SDuring body warp warping, packing ring weight in proparea is 10g, middle area 9g, back zone 8g;40S/ 2 bubbles
During Jing warpings, proparea packing ring weight is 13g, and middle area 12g, back zone 11g, side yarn are 40SSingle line, tension force are 11g;
Assorted warp thread total quantity of warps is as follows:Ground Jing bleached yarns 2226, including 48 side yarns, grey dyeing defect Jing 1962, white bubble
Jing 872,40SBleached yarn 2226, takes 4 axles, is 556*2+557*2 with axle, and grey dyeing defect Jing 1962 takes 4 axles, with axle
For 490*2+491*2, white bubble Jing 872 takes 2 axles, is 436*2 with axle, 10 axles of total number of axle;
(3) sizing
Warp thread is cotton yarn, does not use PVA slurries, can meet production requirement, and formula of size is:Converted starch 70kg, AS-02
Slurry 30kg, size mixing 750L, relative viscosity 10-11S, the rate of sizing 12%, and squeezing roller pressure adopts front heavy rear light industry skill, front mud jacking
Roller pressure is 16KN, and post jacking roller pressure is 10KN, 98 DEG C of sizing temperature, sizing speed 48m/min;During sizing, yarn has two kinds
Color, bleached yarn are placed on upper strata, and grey yarn is placed on lower floor, and middle twisted wire separates;
And axle (4)
Bubble warp thread is 40S/ 2 strands, it is not necessary to starching, two bubble warp beams are merged into a bubble axle on warp rebeaming machine;
(5) pass
The total quantity of warps of this fabric is 5060, and during weaving, menopause tablet uses 4 rows;From the rule of menopause tablet row it is:When
During total quantity of warps >=6000~7000 piece, menopause tablet uses 5 rows;And during total quantity of warps >=8000 piece, menopause tablet then uses 6 rows;It is less than
During 6000 yarns, menopause tablet uses 4 rows;
Heald density:By the analysis to fabric tissue, comprehensive number of pages is page 16, and the warp thread of different motion rule has 12 kinds, wherein
With page 10, with page 2, plain weave is with page 4 for bubble for jacquard weave;1st~2 is comprehensive, steeps Jing 436;3rd~4 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 556;5th
~6 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 557;7th is comprehensive, grey dyeing defect Jing 981;8th~16 is comprehensive, and every page of heald is 109;
Order of gaiting is as follows:(3,4,5,6) × 2,3,4,7,8,7,9,7,10,7,11,7,12,7,13,7,14,7,15,7,16,
(5,6,3,4) × 2,5,6, (1,2) × 4;
(6) weave
The selection of type:From GA747 rapier looms, bubble Jing is sent by frictional force, as speed is low, be conducive to shed open clear,
Profit is formed with to knitting, production efficiency can obtain preferable economic interests all more than 88%;
Twin shaft is weaved:Have three kinds of yarns in this fabric, wherein Jing and Hua Jing 40SSingle thread, the intertwined point number of times phase of ground Jing and Hua Jing
Difference is not too big, and using same beam of a loom, the Jing crimps for steeping warp thread are 1.34 times that body warp is knitted, and Jing weave shrinkages differ greatly,
Twin shaft is needed to weave, warp beam uses original let-off motion, flower warp beam to be mounted in the top of warp beam, and flower beam head is away from the back rest
Distance be about 8-10cm, using friction control the warp let-off;
Bubble Jing will be placed on heald frame proparea:When this fabric knits processed, bubble Jing is comprehensive using 1-2 pieces, if bubble Jing radicals are more, needs to use
Page 4 are comprehensive, before use page 4 it is comprehensive;Steeping the reason for Jing is placed on proparea is:Bubble Jing tension force is smaller, and shed open is difficult clearly, and bubble Jing is put
It is above, clearly favourable to steeping Jing shed opens;When bubble warp thread is comprehensive more than page 4, shed open is difficult to opening or cleaning, and difficulty of weaving can be very big, therefore,
Bubble Jing do not exceed page 4 it is comprehensive;
The control of bubble ratio:In process of production, 10cm being measured forward from fell, being marked on body warp, setting bubble ratio is
1.34, then again from fell, 13.4cm is measured forward, the mark on work on bubble warp thread, driving test weaving check mark, if bubble
Mark on Jing and body warp just overlaps on cloth cover, and bubble ratio meets the requirements, if the mark on seersucker is to the rear, illustrates bubble ratio
It is less than normal, need to reduce spring force, if the mark on seersucker is to the front, steeps than bigger than normal, need to reduce spring force;Bubble is than wanting
After repeatedly comparing, just can determine that;In production process, bubble, is adjusted according to bubble than size at any time than respectively measuring once sooner or later
Bubble Jing, Jing tension force;
The speed of loom:The conventional speed of GA747 looms in 180-200 speeds r/min, have in this fabric tissue figured texture weave,
Bubble tissue, more complicated, it is clear that opening is difficult, therefore will use relatively low speed, determines that speed is 185r/min;
Evening opening:310 ° of opening time, opening are early, and weft yarn is easily urgent, and the backwash of fell is little, unfavorable to forming bubble, opening
Time is slower, and weft yarn is more difficult urgent, and after repeatedly beating up, weft yarn can just be fixed up, and bubble effect is good;But opening time
Late, shed open is difficult clearly, affects wefting insertion, by test weaving, determines that opening time is 310 °;
Late wefting insertion:85 ° are entered sword, when GA747 looms knit conventional variety processed, general to enter sword using 75 ° more, when this fabric knits processed, one
Aspect employs late opening process, on the other hand, little due to steeping Jing tension force, when knitting processed, is also easy to produce three jump faults, suitably at selvedge
Postpone into the sword time so that shed open effective depth increase when entering sword, to solve three jump faults;
Stroke of harness frames:When this fabric knits processed, the stroke of harness frames of body warp keeps constant, and the stroke of harness frames for steeping axle suitably increases, and makes
Bubble warp thread to slay distance by 1.6-3mm, drop to 0-0.5mm, after the stroke of harness frames of seersucker increases, steeping warp thread may be with
Slay rubs, but little due to steeping Jing tension force, and warp run-in is big, therefore impact of the slay to the friction of warp thread to bubble Jing is less, increases
Bubble is Jing after stroke of harness frames, clearly favourable to shed open, big due to steeping Jing stroke of harness frames, and bubble Jing and ground Jing subtract not in same aspect
The friction of bubble Jing and ground Jing is lacked;
Warp tension:The tension weight of a 5kg is configured on the tension weight hammer stem on loom both sides respectively, the elastic force of tension spring is bigger than normal
Control, warp tension are big, weft yarn be difficult it is urgent, to favourable into bubble, GA747 weaving-machine tension induction mechanisms be it is mechanical, it is raw
During product, with the reduction of beam of a loom, upper woven power gradually can increase, and be responsible for the technique person of technique, and early, evening will check cloth cover
Width, control cloth cover width be, between 154-156cm, if it find that cloth cover is partially narrow, warp tension will to be turned in time down;
The low back rest:When conventional variety knits processed, back beam height 70mm belongs to the high back rest, when knitting seersucker fabric processed, be using after low
Beam, the back rest are low, and weft yarn is difficult urgent, and fell backwash is big, and bubble effect is good, and by repetition test, back beam height is dropped to by 70mm
105mm;
Shed open depth:Shed open depth is big, and during beating, warp thread movement is big, is unfavorable for urgent weft yarn, is conducive to fabric to bubble, originally knits
When thing knits processed, warp stop frame moves to outermost position in elongated slot centre position by conventional, makes shed open depth reach maximization position
Put, it is favourable to bubbling.
2. it is according to claim 1 production all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth process, it is characterised in that:What is produced knits
Thing ground Jing is 40SBleached yarn, jacquard weave part is by grey 40SSingle thread is constituted, white 40S/ 2 doublet cords constitute bubble Jing, bubble Jing individually into
Axle, is weaved using twin shaft;Weft yarn is 40SMonochromatic plus white yarn.
3. it is according to claim 2 production all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth process, it is characterised in that:The fabric
Trimmed size it is as follows:The fabric width of finished product be 146cm, finished product thread count be 346/10cm × 275 piece/10cm, Jing crimps
Rate:7.7%, latitude weave shrinkage:5.4%, the contracting of dyeing and finishing length:6%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage:6.5%.
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CN108611737A (en) * | 2018-06-28 | 2018-10-02 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of high branch seersucker fabric of cotton and its processing method |
CN111534906A (en) * | 2020-04-21 | 2020-08-14 | 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 | Weaving method of three-dimensional jean fabric |
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Effective date of registration: 20220913 Address after: 223100 buildings 21 and 23, Kunshan Road, entrepreneurship Park, East District, Hongze Economic Development Zone, Huai'an City, Jiangsu Province Patentee after: Jiangsu natural wind Textile Co.,Ltd. Address before: 226000 No. 87 Youth Middle Road, Nantong City, Jiangsu Province Patentee before: JIANGSU College OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY |