CN106884248B - A kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric - Google Patents
A kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN106884248B CN106884248B CN201710010046.5A CN201710010046A CN106884248B CN 106884248 B CN106884248 B CN 106884248B CN 201710010046 A CN201710010046 A CN 201710010046A CN 106884248 B CN106884248 B CN 106884248B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
- D06C23/02—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by singeing, teasing, shearing, etching or brushing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
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- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of production technologies of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric, include the following steps: Fabric Design → winder → warping → sizing → drawing-in → weaving → final finishing.Cotton broadwise cutting motif fabric in the present invention is soft, comfortably, based on fresh and clean striped, thinner warp thread, so that cloth cover is fine and smooth, higher through close, the flower pattern of formation is small and exquisite, the third dimension of patterns of composition is strong, and the table by consumer is looked at, mainly as summer shirt fabric.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric knitting fields, and in particular to a kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric.
Background technique
Clipping and carving fabric has through two kinds of clipping and carving fabric and latitude clipping and carving fabric, and the loom of early stage does not have electronic take-up mechanism, production
Producer can only be become by changing every reed penetration number through close, and exploitation is through clipping and carving fabric, and production efficiency is low, and production difficulty is big, with existing
Electronic take-up mechanism is widely used for shuttleless loom, becoming filling density weaving becomes very convenient, and the present invention weaves latitude with air-jet loom
Clipping and carving fabric forms decorative pattern in cloth cover, then be equipped with the flower latitude of various colors, constitutes various styles by the latitude interlacing point of flower latitude
Pattern, latitude cutting motif fabric compares through cutting motif fabric, and simple process, production difficulty is low, and yield is high, high-quality.
Part in warp thread or weft yarn is knitted in fabric, is then cut off the extra yarn for floating on fabric backing, just
It is clipping and carving fabric.Clipping and carving fabric has through clipping and carving fabric and latitude clipping and carving fabric.Through clipping and carving fabric there are two or more than two warp thread
System, each system require an individual beam of a loom, using flower warp through interlacing point, form decorative pattern in cloth cover, match simultaneously
To change every reed penetration number, fabric made of weaving, when weaving, needs two or more beams of a loom, and production difficulty is big, matter
Amount is difficult to control, and is mostly used the weaving of low speed rapier loom.There are two latitude clipping and carving fabrics or more than two weft systems, ground weft and flower
Latitude, ground weft and warp thread interweave to be organized with being formed；Flower latitude is only and the warp thread intertexture that rockets, the latitude interlacing point of formation float on fabric face,
Long length is floated using flower latitude latitude to change, forms decorative pattern on fabric, then is equipped with and becomes filling density technique, is weaved.Latitude clipping and carving is knitted
The warp thread of object also has body warp and rockets warp thread, but body warp and yarn rocket interleaved number difference difference and little, can make
It is weaved with single shaft, thus shed open is easy clear, simple production process, decorative pattern variation is more, more convenient, good product quality is designed,
It can be produced with high speed loom.The present invention introduces the design and producing main points of latitude clipping and carving fabric.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabrics
Production technology.
Technical solution: a kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric includes the following steps: Fabric Design → winder
→ warping → sizing → drawing-in → weaving → final finishing；Concrete operations are as follows:
(1), Fabric Design
A. plain weave is selected to make basic organization；
B. rocket place, and flower latitude and ground weft are arranged by 1:1, and ground weft and all warp thread interweave, and flower latitude only interweaves with the warp thread that rockets,
And flower latitude is floating longer, covers ground weft, floats on fabric surface, in conjunction with the yarn of various colors, constitutes different style decorative pattern；
C. it spends the latitude of latitude to float long line and is set as 3, when not rocketing, flower latitude sinks to the reverse side of fabric；It is knitted weaving latitude clipping and carving
When object, floating long of length no more than 4 of latitude will arrange knot to connect and be carried out knot and connect if flower pattern needs the floating length of longer latitude really,
Push down the floating length of latitude；
D. the color of warp thread has Jia Bai and middle orchid, and line density is 9.7tex yarn；Weft yarn has ground weft and flower latitude, and ground weft is
9.7tex adds white yarn line, flower latitude and promising middle blue and dark red two kinds of colors, line density 9.7tex*2 doublet cord；
(2), winder
Select 1332MD type bobbin-winding machine, this fabric produce when, directly purchase dyed yarn, the fault of yarn in preceding road winder
It is removed, does not need to select high speed cone winder, but semi-automatic bobbin winder is selected to carry out rewinding, this textile is cotton,
Line density is 9.7tex, since yarn count is thinner, selects lower winder speed, winder speed is 575m/min, due to vehicle
Speed is lower, and influence of winding tension washer selects 7.4 grams of washer；For the quality for guaranteeing cylinder yarn, it is desirable that use hand held air splicer
Connector；
(3), warping
Benniger ZDA type beam warper, speed of beaming 215-1000m/min are selected, the capacity of bobbin cradle is 768
Only；When this fabric produces, speed of beaming 670m/min, since the type warping machine speed of beaming is fast, when warping, no longer carries out attached
Add the setting of tension；Warping matches axis, adds white yarn 6454,96, side yarn, adds up to 6550,9 axis of trim-beam number matches axis are as follows:
727*2+728*7；Middle blue 1614,3 axis of trim-beam number is 538*3 with axis；
(4), sizing
Select GA308 type dual-box slasher, the formula of slurry: PVA1799 30%, converted starch 70%, slurries
Solid content control 7.5%, the viscosity of slurries is 9-10S, and using double-clip-double-nip technique, preceding squeezing roller pressure is 16kN, after
Squeezing roller pressure is 12kN, and sizing speed is 50-55m/min, and slurry groove temperature is 80-85 DEG C, the rate of sizing 11%, sizing resurgence
Rate is controlled 7 ± 0.5%；
Fabric is pure cotton fabric, and full starch starching can be used originally, but since yarn is thinner, the density of fabric compares again
Greatly, sizing should be wear-resisting, enhances again, therefore 30% PVA1799 is added in the formula based on starch size, with enhancing
The weaving performance of sizing；Warp thread is 9.7tex single thread, and single thread force is lower, and when sizing will consider the enhancing of yarn, is considered again
Yarn it is wear-resisting, therefore squeezing roller, using light technique after preceding weight, preceding squeezing roller pressure is larger, is 16kN, pressure is big, slurries quilt
Yarn interior is squeezed into, sizing is impregnated with, and yarn enhancing is big；Post jacking roller pressure is relatively small, and pressure is small, and sizing is coated
Good, sizing is more wear-resisting；
After sizing, it is middle orchid yarn and plus white yarn line, separated with leased line, it is middle orchid yarn be placed on upper layer, add white yarn line to be placed on
Lower layer, after being separated with leased line, when rear road is gaited, work of gaiting takes yarn convenient；
(5), it gaits:
Menopause tablet uses 6 rows, suitable to wear；Latitude cutting motif fabric is gaited using subregion, and body warp is through proparea, is rocketed after being through
Area, if there is knot connects through knot, which connects, is through middle area；Heald frame using page 12 it is comprehensive, total quantity of warps 8260, wherein through part warp thread
Radical is 7044, and warp thread radical is more, comprehensive along wearing using 1-8 pages, is rocketed through 1120, comprehensive using 9-12 pages, 96, side yarn, is made
It is comprehensive with 1-2 pages；One 200 yarn of circulation of gaiting, in a circulation, page 1,4,6 be comprehensive respectively to wear 22 yarns, and page 2,3 be comprehensive respectively to be worn
23 yarns, page 5 be comprehensive to wear 21 yarns, and page 7 be comprehensive to wear 20 yarns, page 8 be comprehensive to wear 19 yarns, and the one 9-12 pages comprehensive to wear 7 yarns；Respectively
Page heald frame heald radical are as follows: page 1 comprehensive 937, page 2 comprehensive 977, page 3 comprehensive 929, page 4 comprehensive 889, page 5 is comprehensive
848, page 6 comprehensive 888, page 7 comprehensive 808, page 8 comprehensive 768, the 9-12 pages comprehensive each 280；Sequence of gaiting is as follows:
(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,1,2,3, (9,10) * 6,4,5,6,10,8, (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,
8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,11,1,2,3, (11,12) * 6,2,3,4,12,6；
(6), it weaves:
It selects GA718 type air-jet loom to weave, is configured with electronic dobby shedding mechanism, the heald frames of page 16, loom speed is
520r/min；
Become filling density weaving: the loom of non-electronic spooler, which can also weave, becomes filling density fabric, when weaving ground weft, coiling machine
Structure normally batches, and weaves Hua Weishi, by dobby wirerope, will batch hook and lifts, stop batching；
It is configured with electronic take-up and electronic warp feeding in GA718 type air-jet loom, in technique setting menu, chooses to batch and send
Through system, filling density is set, filling density is settable 8 kinds most；2 kinds of filling densities are arranged in this fabric, and filling density 1 is set as 364/10cm, latitude
Close 2 are set as 594/10cm, and choose and become filling density weaving, then in technological design menu, design are chosen, in fancy
A column is designed, input: 1-46 latitude is weaved using filling density 1, and 47-52 latitude is weaved using filling density 2, and 53-98 latitude is knitted using filling density 1
It makes, 99-104 latitude is weaved using filling density 2, can be achieved with becoming filling density weaving function；
Licker-in roller: when weaving broadwise cutting motif fabric, due to flower latitude to float long line longer, it is easy to by the acicular hook on licker-in roller
Latitude is firmly spent, the quality of fabric is influenced, when producing cutting motif fabric, needs to prevent in one layer of frivolous clad of seta roller surface packet
Only licker-in roller hook yarn, clad cannot be thick, coat thickness, will affect licker-in roller to the control ability of cloth cover, to influence fabric
Quality；
Opening time: opening time is determined as 290 °；
Weft yarn beginning flying angle: the upper machine reed width of this fabric is smaller, only 162cm, therefore, when weft yarn has enough flight
Between, later weft yarn beginning flying angle need to be used, the beginning flying angle for selecting weft yarn is 95 °；
Weft yarn angle of arrival: this fabric weft yarn angle of arrival is determined as 230 °；
The pneumatic picking time: GA718 type air-jet loom is configured with 8 groups of pilot jets, when this fabric produces, due to upper machine
Reed width is smaller, therefore actually uses 7 groups of pilot jets, auxiliary spray every group 4, and the maximum spacing of auxiliary spray is 6.5cm；Loom revolving speed is
520m/min, the angle that loom 1ms is turned over are 3.12 degree, and the reaction time of solenoid valve is 5ms, and sluggish angle is 16 °, and weft yarn begins to fly
Row angle is 95 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival is 230 °, whole 250 ° of the spray angle of auxiliary spray, pneumatic picking technological parameter are as follows: gear yarn needle release angle=
Weft yarn beginning flying angle-sluggishness angle=79 °, when the first latitude is weaved, since loom does not reach normal revolving speed, weft yarn has enough
Flight time, gear yarn needle release time can be 10 ° late, and it is 89 ° that the first latitude, which keeps off yarn needle release angle,；Main jet jet time be 69 °-
170 °, when the first latitude is weaved, main jet jet angle is 79 ° -170 °, identical when reason is with gear the first latitude of yarn needle weaving；First group
Pilot jet jet angle is 69 ° -130 °, and second group of pilot jet jet angle is 90 ° -150 °, the spray of third group pilot jet
Air horn degree is 110 ° -170 °, and the 4th group of pilot jet jet angle is 130 ° -190 °, and the 5th group of pilot jet jet angle is
150 ° -210 °, the 6th group of pilot jet jet angle is 170 ° -230 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet angle be 190 ° -
290 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet end time, should be identical as the whole spray angle of auxiliary spray, but since GA718 type jet is knitted
Machine does not have draw jet, and to prevent looped weft, last group of pilot jet end time is deferred to 290 ° of heald level time；
Whiff pressure: main jet pressure is set as 0.22MPa, and the auxiliary power of spraying is set as 0.26mpa, machine reed width on this fabric
There is 162cm, upper machine reed width is small, and weft yarn flying speed does not need very fastly, thus lesser whiff pressure can be selected；Production process
In, weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, from loom display screen, checks that weft yarn is actually reached angle, practical weft yarn angle of arrival control
Between 220 ° -230 °, whiff pressure is no longer needed for adjusting, if being actually reached angle earlier than 220 °, can suitably turn jet down
Pressure needs to increase whiff pressure if being actually reached angle is later than 230 °, prevents that short latitude stops platform；
Gentle breeze: when this fabric produces, since weft yarn is thinner, weft yarn screen resilience is small, and gentle breeze pressure is controlled in 0.06-
Between 0.08mpa, 0.08mpa is not exceeded, gentle breeze pressure is big, and Weft Detwisting is fast, and weft yarn is easy to be blown；
Back beam height: GA718 type air-jet loom, configuration is type dobby shedding mechanism, and common back beam height is 0 scale,
When this fabric weaves, thread count is all bigger, and weft yarn is not easy urgent, and fell backwash is big, therefore back beam height is increased to 1
The tension difference of scale, layer warp thread upper and lower in this way is big, and weft yarn is easy urgent；
Warp tension: warp count is big, and shed open is not easy clearly, it should use biggish warp tension, but this fabric warp
Relatively thin, single thread force is low, and after overall balance, tension is set as 130kg.
As optimization: the Fabric width of the fabric is 146cm, finished product through it is close be 559/10cm, broadwise have ground weft and
Flower latitude, one spends middle ground weft width 2.5cm, 92 yarns of ground weft, and density is 368/10cm at ground weft, and one spends middle colored latitude width
0.2cm, flower latitude 12, flower weft density is 600/10cm, and every colored fill yarn ends are 104 latitudes, average filling density=104/2.7 × 10
=385/10cm, warp yarn shrinkage 9.0%, weft shrinkage 3.7%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%, the long shrinkage of dyeing and finishing is 1.0%.
The utility model has the advantages that, due to being limited through cutting motif fabric by every reed penetration number and reed, flower pattern can not show a candle in the present invention
Latitude cutting motif fabric is abundant.Latitude cutting motif fabric floats the front that long line floats on fabric by latitude, decorative pattern is formed, due to GA718 type loom
Electronic take-up mechanism has been used, 8 kinds of filling densities at most can be used in same kind, so that the patterning design of latitude cutting motif fabric becomes non-
It is often convenient, it can be also far below according to the arbitrarily devised filling density of requirement of flower pattern, difficulty of weaving through cutting motif fabric, product quality is better than
Through cutting motif fabric.
When producing latitude cutting motif fabric, it should be noted that the following: the basic organization of 1. latitude cutting motif fabrics, it is preferred to use plain weave group
It knits；2. yarn count is thin；3. the thread count of fabric is big.It is close fine and smooth as long as meeting above, the fabric woven out at 3 points, flower
Type is small and exquisite changeable, and perception is good, is chiefly used in weaving summer shirt fabric.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is machine schematic diagram on fabric of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The present invention is further explained in the light of specific embodiments.
Embodiment
1, Fabric Design of the invention
The design of latitude cutting motif fabric in the present invention is as follows: (1) selecting plain weave to make basic organization, plain weave
Point number is relatively more, is easy to clamp colored latitude, can also make the smooth exquisiteness of cloth cover, the effect of prominent flower latitude；(2) rocket place, flower latitude
It is arranged with ground weft by 1:1, ground weft and all warp thread interweave, and flower latitude only interweaves with the warp thread that rockets, and flower latitude is floating longer, covers
Ground weft floats on fabric surface, in conjunction with the yarn of various colors, constitutes different style decorative pattern；(3) latitude of flower latitude floats long line and is set as
3, when not rocketing, flower latitude sinks to the reverse side of fabric.When weaving latitude cutting motif fabric, latitude floats long length preferably not more than 4
Root, common latitude float a length of 2-4 root, and when flower latitude latitude is floating long, fabric surface can become coarse, and perception is deteriorated, the resistance to jail of fabric
Degree can also decline.If flower pattern needs the floating length of longer latitude really, to arrange knot to connect and be carried out knot and connect, push down the floating length of latitude；(4) it passes through
The color of yarn has Jia Bai and middle orchid, and line density is 9.7tex yarn；Weft yarn has ground weft and flower latitude, and ground weft is that 9.7tex adds white yarn
Line, flower latitude and promising middle blue and dark red two kinds of colors, line density 9.7tex*2 doublet cord.The line density of flower latitude is greater than ground weft,
Make that latitude is spent to be not easy to fall off from fabric in this way, fabric quality is more preferable, and three-dimensional sense is stronger.
Cotton cutting motif fabric, it is soft, comfortably, and based on fresh and clean striped, thinner warp thread, so that cloth cover is thin
Greasy, higher through close, the flower pattern of formation is small and exquisite, and the third dimension of patterns of composition is strong, and the table by consumer is looked at, mainly as summer
Shirt fabric.
2. Fabric Design specification:
Fabric breadth 156cm, fabric through close 524/10cm, 504/10cm of warp density on machine, rocket locate filling density be 594
Root/10cm, not rocketing, to locate filling density be 364/10cm, and fabric is averaged 381/10cm of filling density.Every reed 4 enters.Longitude and latitude color yarn arrangement:
Add white 8, middle blue 2, every colored radical 10；Weft yarn arrangement: add white yarn 46+(middle blue 1, add white 1) * 3+ add white 46+(bright red 1,
Add white 1) * 3, a flower weft yarn recurring number 104.Total quantity of warps 8164,96, side yarn, body total quantity of warps 8068, every flower
Warp thread radical 10, full width spends the flower of number 807 to subtract first 2, subtracts a color as white, white warp thread radical=807 × 8-2=6454
Root, middle orchid warp thread radical=807 × 2=1614 root.The total dent number 2017 of full width, reed width 162cm, 124 tooth of metric system porter/
10cm.Looming draft is as shown in Figure 1.
3. production essentials:
Process flow of the invention: winder → warping → sizing → drawing-in → weaving → final finishing.
3.1 winder
Select 1332MD type bobbin-winding machine.This fabric produce when, directly purchase dyed yarn, the fault of yarn in preceding road winder
It is removed, is not needed to select high speed cone winder, but semi-automatic bobbin winder is selected to carry out rewinding.The type bobbin-winding machine common speed
For 500-900m/min.This textile is cotton, and line density 9.7tex selects lower network since yarn count is thinner
Cylinder speed, winder speed are 575m/min.Low velocity winder is selected, influence of winding tension fluctuation is small, and cylinder yarn quality is advantageous to improving.By
Lower in speed, influence of winding tension washer selects 7.4 grams of washer.For the quality for guaranteeing cylinder yarn, it is desirable that twisted using hand held air
Connect device connector.
3.2 warping
Benniger ZDA type beam warper is selected, the type warping machine, speed of beaming is between 215-1000m/min, bobbin
The capacity of frame is 768.When this fabric produces, speed of beaming 670m/min.Since the type warping machine speed of beaming is fast, warping
The setting of Shi Buzai progress additional tension.
Warping matches axis, adds white yarn 6454,96, side yarn, adds up to 6550,9 axis of trim-beam number matches axis are as follows: 727*2+
728*7；Middle blue 1614,3 axis of trim-beam number is 538*3 with axis.
3.3 sizing
GA308 type dual-box slasher is selected, the formula of slurry: PVA1799 30%, converted starch 70%, slurries contain
Gu rate is controlled in 7.5%, the viscosity 9-10S of slurries, using double-clip-double-nip technique, preceding squeezing roller pressure 16kN, and post jacking roll-in
Power 12kN, sizing speed 50-55m/min, 80-85 DEG C of slurry groove temperature, the rate of sizing 11%, sized warp moisture regain control 7 ±
0.5%.
Fabric is pure cotton fabric, and full starch starching can be used originally, but since yarn is thinner, the density of fabric compares again
Greatly, sizing should be wear-resisting, enhances again, therefore 30% PVA1799 is added in the formula based on starch size, with enhancing
The weaving performance of sizing.Warp thread is 9.7tex single thread, and single thread force is lower, and when sizing will consider the enhancing of yarn, is considered again
Yarn it is wear-resisting, therefore squeezing roller, using light technique after preceding weight, preceding squeezing roller pressure is larger, is 16kN, pressure is big, slurries quilt
Yarn interior is squeezed into, sizing is impregnated with, and yarn enhancing is big；Post jacking roller pressure is relatively small, and pressure is small, and sizing is coated
Good, sizing is more wear-resisting.
After sizing, it is middle orchid yarn and plus white yarn line, separated with leased line, it is middle orchid yarn be placed on upper layer, add white yarn line to put
In lower layer, after being separated with leased line, when rear road is gaited, work of gaiting takes yarn convenient.
3.4 gait:
Menopause tablet uses 6 rows, suitable to wear.Latitude cutting motif fabric is gaited using subregion, and body warp is through proparea, is rocketed after being through
Area, if there is knot connects through knot, which connects, is through middle area.Heald frame using page 12 it is comprehensive, total quantity of warps 8260, wherein through part warp thread
Radical is 7044, and warp thread radical is more, comprehensive along wearing using 1-8 pages, is rocketed through 1120, comprehensive using 9-12 pages, 96, side yarn, is made
It is comprehensive with 1-2 pages.One 200 yarn of circulation of gaiting, in a circulation, page 1,4,6 be comprehensive respectively to wear 22 yarns, and page 2,3 be comprehensive respectively to be worn
23 yarns, page 5 be comprehensive to wear 21 yarns, and page 7 be comprehensive to wear 20 yarns, page 8 be comprehensive to wear 19 yarns, and the one 9-12 pages comprehensive to wear 7 yarns.Respectively
Page heald frame heald radical are as follows: page 1 comprehensive 937, page 2 comprehensive 977, page 3 comprehensive 929, page 4 comprehensive 889, page 5 is comprehensive
848, page 6 comprehensive 888, page 7 comprehensive 808, page 8 comprehensive 768, the 9-12 pages comprehensive each 280.Sequence of gaiting is as follows:
(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,1,2,3, (9,10) * 6,4,5,6,10,8, (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,
8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,11,1,2,3, (11,12) * 6,2,3,4,12,6.
3.5 weavings:
GA718 type air-jet loom is selected to weave.GA718 type air-jet loom, by Shanghai Textile Machinery, factory is produced, configured with electricity
Sub- type dobby shedding mechanism, the heald frames of page 16, loom speed 520r/min.
Become filling density weaving:
The loom of non-electronic spooler, which can also weave, becomes filling density fabric, and when weaving ground weft, spooler is normally batched,
Hua Weishi is woven, by dobby wirerope, hook will be batched and lifted, stop batching.In actual production process, hook quilt is batched
After lifting, fell can be moved back, and practical filling density is difficult to control, and the quality of fabric is difficult to ensure, can only weave some low grade products.
It is configured with electronic take-up and electronic warp feeding in GA718 type air-jet loom, in technique setting menu, chooses to batch and send
Through system, filling density is set.8 kinds of filling densities can be at most designed in system as needed, 2 kinds of filling densities are arranged in this fabric, and filling density 1 is set as
364/10cm, filling density 2 is set as 594/10cm, and chooses and become filling density weaving, then in technological design menu, chooses figure
Case design designs a column in fancy, and input: 1-46 latitude is weaved using filling density 1, and 47-52 latitude is weaved, 53-98 using filling density 2
Latitude is weaved using filling density 1, and 99-104 latitude is weaved using filling density 2, can be achieved with becoming filling density weaving function.Due to electronic take-up machine
The use of structure, so that the size of filling density can be controlled arbitrarily as needed, the quality of fabric can be effectively guaranteed.
Licker-in roller: when weaving broadwise cutting motif fabric, due to flower latitude to float long line longer, it is easy to by the acicular hook on licker-in roller
Firmly flower warp or flower latitude, influence the quality of fabric, when producing cutting motif fabric, need in one layer of frivolous cladding of seta roller surface packet
Layer prevents licker-in roller hook yarn, and clad cannot be thick, coats thickness, will affect licker-in roller to the control ability of cloth cover, to influence
The quality of fabric.
Opening time:
Opening time is determined as 290 degree.The common opening time of type air-jet loom is 290 ° -320 °, this fabric weaves
When, warp thread radical is more, and shed open is not easy clearly, using early opening, is conducive to that shed open is clear, and opening time is determined as 290 °.It adopts
With early opening, there are one the reason is that: fabric tissue is plain weave, yarns interwoven often, weft yarn be not easy it is urgent, using early opening
Be conducive to urgent weft yarn.
Weft yarn beginning flying angle:
GA718 type air-jet loom, for common weft yarn beginning flying angle between 80 ° -90 °, this fabric determines that weft yarn begins to fly
Angle is 95 °.The determination of weft yarn beginning flight angle mainly determines that upper machine reed width is wide according to machine reed width on fabric, to guarantee latitude
Yarn has enough flight time, and often using weft yarn beginning flying angle earlier, but weft yarn beginning flying angle is early, shed open effective height
It is small, in weft yarn flight course, filoplume on warp thread may be encountered or Warp opening is unintelligible, weft yarn directly encounters warp thread,
Short latitude is caused to stop platform.When this fabric produces, the upper machine reed width of fabric is smaller, only 162cm, and therefore, weft yarn has enough fly
The row time can use later weft yarn beginning flying angle, and the beginning flying angle for selecting weft yarn is 95 °.Weft yarn beginning flying angle is also not easy again
Evening, flying angle evening weft yarn beginning, weft yarn will also reach opposite side shed open in defined angle, this just needs biggish whiff pressure, spray
Atmospheric pressure is big, and can cause long irregular pick point, while also adding the consumption of gas consumption.
Weft yarn angle of arrival:
The type loom, common weft yarn angle of arrival are 220 ° -230 °, and broad fabric weft yarn angle of arrival can control the latest
240°.Weft yarn reaches evening, and when weft yarn goes out shed open, shed open effective height is small, is easy at the selvedge of right side when weaving, and forms side looped weft
Fault influences the quality of fabric.This fabric weft yarn angle of arrival is determined as 230 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival should not be early, because weft yarn reaches
Angle is early, and whiff pressure needs are larger, and pressure is big, and one side compressed air consumption is big, on the other hand be easy to cause long irregular pick point.
The pneumatic picking time:
GA718 type air-jet loom is configured with 8 groups of pilot jets, when this fabric produces, since upper machine reed width is smaller,
7 groups of pilot jets are actually used, are able to satisfy the production requirement of fabric completely.Auxiliary spray every group 4, the maximum spacing of auxiliary spray is 6.5cm.
Loom revolving speed is 520m/min, and the angle that loom 1ms is turned over is 3.12 degree, and the reaction time of solenoid valve is 5ms, and sluggish angle is
16 °, weft yarn beginning flying angle is 95 °, and weft yarn angle of arrival is 230 °, whole 250 ° of the spray angle of auxiliary spray, pneumatic picking technological parameter are as follows: gear yarn
Needle release angle=weft yarn beginning flying angle-sluggishness angle=79 °, when the first latitude is weaved, since loom does not reach normal revolving speed,
Weft yarn has enough flight time, and gear yarn needle release time can be 10 ° late, and it is 89 ° that the first latitude, which keeps off yarn needle release angle,；Main jet spray
The gas time is 69 ° -170 °, and when the first latitude is weaved, main jet jet angle is 79 ° -170 °, when reason is with gear the first latitude of yarn needle weaving
It is identical；First group of pilot jet jet angle is 69 ° -130 °, and second group of pilot jet jet angle is 90 ° -150 °, third group
Pilot jet jet angle is 110 ° -170 °, and the 4th group of pilot jet jet angle is 130 ° -190 °, the 5th group of pilot jet
Jet angle is 150 ° -210 °, and the 6th group of pilot jet jet angle is 170 ° -230 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet angle
It is 190 ° -290 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet end time, should be identical as the whole spray angle of auxiliary spray, but due to GA718 type
Air-jet loom does not have draw jet, and to prevent looped weft, last group of pilot jet end time is deferred to 290 ° of heald level time.
Whiff pressure: main jet pressure is set as 0.22mpa, and the auxiliary power of spraying is set as 0.26mpa.Machine reed width on this fabric
There is 162cm, upper machine reed width is small, and weft yarn flying speed does not need very fastly, thus lesser whiff pressure can be selected.Weft yarn compares
Carefully, whiff pressure should not be big, and pressure is big, is easy to produce long irregular pick point.In production process, weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, from
In loom display screen, check that weft yarn is actually reached angle, practical weft yarn angle of arrival control is between 220 ° -230 °, and whiff pressure is just
It no longer needs to adjust, if being actually reached angle earlier than 220 °, can suitably turn whiff pressure down, be later than if being actually reached angle
It 230 °, needs to increase whiff pressure, prevents that short latitude stops platform.Using lesser whiff pressure, gas consumption on the one hand can be reduced
Consumption, on the other hand can be reduced long irregular pick point.
Gentle breeze: common gentle breeze pressure is 0.08mpa, and when this fabric produces, since weft yarn is thinner, weft yarn screen resilience is small,
Gentle breeze pressure controls between 0.06-0.08mpa, does not exceed 0.08mpa, and gentle breeze pressure is big, and Weft Detwisting is fast, and weft yarn is easy
It is blown.
Back beam height: GA718 type air-jet loom, configuration is type dobby shedding mechanism, and common back beam height is 0 scale,
When this fabric weaves, thread count is all bigger, and weft yarn is not easy urgent, and fell backwash is big, therefore we mention back beam height
For height to 1 scale, the tension difference of layer warp thread upper and lower in this way is big, and weft yarn is easy urgent.
Warp tension: warp count is big, and shed open is not easy clearly, it should use biggish warp tension, but this fabric warp
Relatively thin, single thread force is low, and after overall balance, tension is set as 130kg.
4. the trimmed size of fabric:
Fabric width is 146cm, finished product through it is close be 559/10cm, broadwise has ground weft and flower latitude, and one spends middle ground weft width
2.5cm, 92 yarns of ground weft, density is 368/10cm at ground weft, and one spends middle colored latitude width 0.2cm, flower latitude 12, flower weft density
For 600/10cm, every colored fill yarn ends are 104 latitudes, average filling density=104/2.7 × 10=385 root/10cm, warp yarn shrinkage
9.0%, weft shrinkage 3.7%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%, the long shrinkage of dyeing and finishing is 1.0%.
Conclusion:
It is limited through cutting motif fabric by every reed penetration number and reed, it is abundant that flower pattern can not show a candle to latitude cutting motif fabric.Latitude clipping and carving
Fabric floats the front that long line floats on fabric by latitude, forms decorative pattern, since GA718 type loom has used electronic take-up mechanism, together
8 kinds of filling densities at most can be used in one kind, so that the patterning design of latitude cutting motif fabric becomes very convenient, it can be according to flower pattern
It is required that arbitrarily devised filling density, difficulty of weaving is also far below through cutting motif fabric, and product quality is better than through cutting motif fabric.Produce latitude clipping and carving
When fabric, it should be noted that the following: the basic organization of 1. latitude cutting motif fabrics, it is preferred to use plain weave；2. yarn count is thin；3. knitting
The thread count of object is big.As long as meeting above, the fabric woven out at 3 points, close fine and smooth, flower pattern is small and exquisite changeable, and perception is good,
It is chiefly used in weaving summer shirt fabric.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, anyone can show that other are various under the inspiration of the present invention
The product of form, however, make any variation in its shape or structure, it is all that there is skill identical or similar to the present application
Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. a kind of production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric, characterized by the following steps: Fabric Design → winder
→ warping → sizing → drawing-in → weaving → final finishing；Concrete operations are as follows:
(1), Fabric Design
A. plain weave is selected to make basic organization；
B. rocket place, and flower latitude and ground weft are arranged by 1:1, and ground weft and all warp thread interweave, and flower latitude only interweaves with the warp thread that rockets, and
Flower latitude is floating longer, covers ground weft, floats on fabric surface, in conjunction with the yarn of various colors, constitutes different style decorative pattern；
C. it spends the latitude of latitude to float long line and is set as 3, when not rocketing, flower latitude sinks to the reverse side of fabric；When weaving latitude cutting motif fabric,
Floating long of length no more than 4 of latitude will arrange knot to connect and be carried out knot and connect, push down if flower pattern needs the floating length of longer latitude really
The floating length of latitude；
D. the color of warp thread has Jia Bai and middle orchid, and line density is 9.7tex yarn；Weft yarn has ground weft and flower latitude, and ground weft is
9.7tex adds white yarn line, and flower latitude has middle blue and dark red two kinds of colors, line density 9.7tex*2 doublet cord again；
(2), winder
Select 1332MD type bobbin-winding machine, this fabric produce when, directly purchase dyed yarn, the fault of yarn in preceding road winder by
It removes, does not need to select high speed cone winder, but semi-automatic bobbin winder is selected to carry out rewinding, this textile is cotton, and line is close
Degree is 9.7tex, since yarn count is thinner, selects lower winder speed, and winder speed is 575m/min, due to speed compared with
Low, influence of winding tension washer selects 7.4 grams of washer；For the quality for guaranteeing cylinder yarn, it is desirable that use hand held air splicer connector；
(3), warping
Benniger ZDA type beam warper, speed of beaming 215-1000m/min are selected, the capacity of bobbin cradle is 768；This
When fabric produces, speed of beaming 670m/min, since the type warping machine speed of beaming is fast, when warping, no longer carries out additional tension
Setting；Warping matches axis, adds white yarn 6454,96, side yarn, adds up to 6550,9 axis of trim-beam number matches axis are as follows: 727*2+
728*7；Middle blue 1614,3 axis of trim-beam number is 538*3 with axis；
(4), sizing
GA308 type dual-box slasher is selected, the formula of slurry: PVA1799 30%, converted starch 70%, slurries contain
Gu rate control is 7.5%, the viscosity of slurries is 9-10S, and using double-clip-double-nip technique, preceding squeezing roller pressure is 16kN, post jacking
Roller pressure is 12kN, and sizing speed is 50-55m/min, and slurry groove temperature is 80-85 DEG C, the rate of sizing 11%, sized warp moisture regain control
System is 7 ± 0.5%；
Fabric is pure cotton fabric, full starch starching can be used originally, but since yarn is thinner, and the density of fabric is again bigger, slurry
Yarn should be wear-resisting, enhances again, therefore 30% PVA1799 is added in the formula based on starch size, to enhance sizing
Weaving performance；Warp thread is 9.7tex single thread, and single thread force is lower, and when sizing will consider the enhancing of yarn, considers yarn again
It is wear-resisting, therefore squeezing roller, using light technique after preceding weight, preceding squeezing roller pressure is larger, is 16kN, pressure is big, and slurries are extruded
Into yarn interior, sizing is impregnated with, and yarn enhancing is big；Post jacking roller pressure is relatively small, and pressure is small, sizing it is coating well,
Sizing is more wear-resisting；
After sizing, it is middle orchid yarn and plus white yarn line, separated with leased line, it is middle orchid yarn be placed on upper layer, add white yarn line to be placed on lower layer,
After being separated with leased line, when rear road is gaited, work of gaiting takes yarn convenient；
(5), it gaits:
Menopause tablet uses 6 rows, suitable to wear；Latitude cutting motif fabric is gaited using subregion, and body warp is through proparea, is rocketed through being through back zone,
If there is knot connects through knot, which connects, is through middle area；Heald frame using page 12 it is comprehensive, total quantity of warps 8260, wherein through part warp thread root
Number is 7044, and warp thread radical is more, comprehensive along wearing using 1-8 page, is rocketed through 1120, comprehensive using 9-12 pages, 96, side yarn, use
1-2 pages comprehensive；One 200 yarn of circulation of gaiting, in a circulation, page 1,4,6 be comprehensive respectively to wear 22 yarns, and page 2,3 be comprehensive respectively to wear 23
Root yarn, page 5 be comprehensive to wear 21 yarns, and page 7 be comprehensive to wear 20 yarns, and page 8 be comprehensive to wear 19 yarns, and the one 9-12 pages comprehensive to wear 7 yarns；Each page is comprehensive
Frame heald radical are as follows: page 1 comprehensive 937, page 2 comprehensive 977, page 3 comprehensive 929, page 4 comprehensive 889, page 5 comprehensive 848
Root, page 6 comprehensive 888, page 7 comprehensive 808, page 8 comprehensive 768, the 9-12 pages comprehensive each 280；Sequence of gaiting is as follows: (1,
2,3,4,5,6,7,8) * 9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,1,2,3, (9,10) * 6,4,5,6,10,8, (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) *
9,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,11,1,2,3, (11,12) * 6,2,3,4,12,6；
(6), it weaves:
It selects GA718 type air-jet loom to weave, is configured with electronic dobby shedding mechanism, the heald frames of page 16, loom speed 520r/
min；
Become filling density weaving: being configured with electronic take-up and electronic warp feeding in GA718 type air-jet loom, in technique setting menu, choosing
In batch feeding system of warp, filling density is set, and filling density may be configured as 8 kinds；This fabric be arranged 2 kinds of filling densities, filling density 1 be set as 364/
10cm, filling density 2 are set as 594/10cm, and choose and become filling density weaving, then in technological design menu, pattern are chosen to set
Meter designs a column in fancy, and input: 1-46 latitude is weaved using filling density 1, and 47-52 latitude is weaved using filling density 2, and 53-98 latitude makes
It is weaved with filling density 1,99-104 latitude is weaved using filling density 2, can be achieved with becoming filling density weaving function；
Licker-in roller: when weaving broadwise cutting motif fabric, due to flower latitude to float long line longer, it is easy to lived to spend by the acicular hook on licker-in roller
Through or flower latitude, influence the quality of fabric, when producing cutting motif fabric, need in one layer of frivolous clad of seta roller surface packet,
Licker-in roller hook yarn is prevented, clad cannot be thick, coats thickness, will affect licker-in roller to the control ability of cloth cover, to influence to knit
The quality of object；
Opening time: opening time is determined as 290 °；
Weft yarn beginning flying angle: the upper machine reed width of this fabric is smaller, and only 162cm, therefore, weft yarn have enough flight time,
Later weft yarn beginning flying angle need to be used, the beginning flying angle for selecting weft yarn is 95 °；
Weft yarn angle of arrival: this fabric weft yarn angle of arrival is determined as 230 °；
The pneumatic picking time: GA718 type air-jet loom is configured with 8 groups of pilot jets, when this fabric produces, due to upper machine reed width
It is smaller, therefore 7 groups of pilot jets are actually used, auxiliary spray every group 4, the maximum spacing of auxiliary spray is 6.5cm；Loom revolving speed is 520m/
Min, the angle that loom 1ms is turned over are 3.12 degree, and the reaction time of solenoid valve is 5ms, and sluggish angle is 16 °, weft yarn beginning flying angle
It is 95 °, weft yarn angle of arrival is 230 °, whole 250 ° of the spray angle of auxiliary spray, pneumatic picking technological parameter are as follows: gear yarn needle release angle=weft yarn
Beginning flying angle-sluggishness angle=79 °, when the first latitude is weaved, since loom does not reach normal revolving speed, weft yarn has enough flight
Time, gear yarn needle release time can be 10 ° late, and it is 89 ° that the first latitude, which keeps off yarn needle release angle,；Main jet jet time be 69 °-
170 °, when the first latitude is weaved, main jet jet angle is 79 ° -170 °, identical when reason is with gear the first latitude of yarn needle weaving；First group
Pilot jet jet angle is 69 ° -130 °, and second group of pilot jet jet angle is 90 ° -150 °, the spray of third group pilot jet
Air horn degree is 110 ° -170 °, and the 4th group of pilot jet jet angle is 130 ° -190 °, and the 5th group of pilot jet jet angle is
150 ° -210 °, the 6th group of pilot jet jet angle is 170 ° -230 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet angle be 190 ° -
290 °, the 7th group of pilot jet jet end time, should be identical as the whole spray angle of auxiliary spray, but since GA718 type jet is knitted
Machine does not have draw jet, and to prevent looped weft, last group of pilot jet end time is deferred to 290 ° of heald level time；
Whiff pressure: main jet pressure is set as 0.22MPa, and the auxiliary power of spraying is set as 0.26MPa, and machine reed width only has on this fabric
162cm, upper machine reed width is small, and weft yarn flying speed does not need very fastly, thus lesser whiff pressure can be selected；Production process
In, weft yarn angle of arrival is set as 230 °, from loom display screen, checks that weft yarn is actually reached angle, practical weft yarn angle of arrival control
Between 220 ° -230 °, whiff pressure is no longer needed for adjusting, if being actually reached angle earlier than 220 °, can suitably turn jet down
Pressure needs to increase whiff pressure if being actually reached angle is later than 230 °, prevents that short latitude stops platform；
Gentle breeze: this fabric produce when, since weft yarn is thinner, weft yarn screen resilience is small, gentle breeze pressure control 0.06-0.08MPa it
Between, gentle breeze pressure is big, and Weft Detwisting is fast, and weft yarn is easy to be blown；
Back beam height: GA718 type air-jet loom, configuration is type dobby shedding mechanism, and common back beam height is 0 scale, is originally knitted
When object weaves, thread count is all bigger, and weft yarn is not easy urgent, and fell backwash is big, therefore back beam height was increased to for 1 quarter
Degree, the tension difference of layer warp thread upper and lower in this way is big, and weft yarn is easy urgent；
Warp tension: warp count is big, and shed open is not easy clearly, it should biggish warp tension is used, but this fabric warp is thinner,
Single thread force is low, and after overall balance, tension is set as 130kg.
2. the production technology of all-cotton yarn-dyed latitude clipping and carving fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the fabric at
Product breadth is 146cm, finished product through it is close be 559/10cm, broadwise has ground weft and flower latitude, and one spends middle ground weft width 2.5cm, ground weft
92 yarns, density is 368/10cm at ground weft, and one spends middle colored latitude width 0.2cm, flower latitude 12, flower weft density is 600/
10cm, every colored fill yarn ends are 104 latitudes, average filling density=104/2.7 × 10=385 root/10cm, warp yarn shrinkage 9.0%, weft yarn
Weave shrinkage 3.7%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage 6.5%, the long shrinkage of dyeing and finishing are 1.0%.
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