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CN105671733B - A kind of latitude bullet is through pipe fabric - Google Patents

A kind of latitude bullet is through pipe fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
CN105671733B
CN105671733B CN201610082669.9A CN201610082669A CN105671733B CN 105671733 B CN105671733 B CN 105671733B CN 201610082669 A CN201610082669 A CN 201610082669A CN 105671733 B CN105671733 B CN 105671733B
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pipe
fabric
weave
warp thread
weft
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CN105671733A (en
Inventor
佟昀
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03Shape features
    • D10B2403/033Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/0333Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with tubular portions of variable diameter or distinct axial orientation
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of latitude bullet through pipe fabric, grain pattern integral layout of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric is spaced using the elastic force jacquard weave with raised stereoeffect through tubing and the flat plain weave for not playing pipe, has English alphabet " S " and Chinese character " one " as decoration through jacquard weave on pipe.The present invention is used as Fashionable women dress fabric, the long line length change and configuration of position is floated by envers latitude, elastic force weft yarn and normal weft is spaced, the various Partial Hollow Fabrics that can be formed, the position of pipe is not played based on plain weave ground, be advantageous to control elastic force and weave width shrinkage.Elastic force part latitude tubular tissue can make fabric have modal third dimension concurrently, take elastic comfort.The ground portion for not playing pipe preferably uses tissue based on plain weave, while advantageously forming through pipe, is also beneficial to control elasticity and weaving width shrinkage, fabric texture is smooth.Colored decoration can be done with through double or its hetero-organization by playing tube portion, play a part of making something perfect even more perfect.

Description

A kind of latitude bullet is through pipe fabric
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric weaving field, and in particular to a kind of latitude bullet is through pipe fabric.
Background technology
It is local that there is three-dimensional local tubular outward appearance and Weftwise stretch effect through tubing, rich ornamental and comfortableness, Applied to Ms's summer fashion clothing fabric, added value is high, well received.Wanted according to appearance style feature with performance requirement is taken Ask, pipe can be that back is open, close, be semiclosed;Pipe tissue and ground tissue can add small jacquard, through rocketing, clipping and carving Etc. various tissue increase decorative effects, flower pattern can show, or when making clothes and wearing, according to fabric broadwise elasticity size, stretch Flower pattern shows or indistinct completely when opening.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention:In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the invention provides a kind of latitude bullet through pipe fabric.
Technical scheme:The invention provides a kind of latitude bullet through pipe fabric, grain pattern integral layout of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric It is spaced using the elastic force jacquard weave with raised stereoeffect through tubing and the flat plain weave for not playing pipe, through on pipe Jacquard weave has English alphabet " S " and Chinese character " one " as decoration;
The organizational structure design of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric be:Used through pipe portion position through double figured texture weave, letter and the Chinese Word is showed using warp backed weave, and organization chart fills out the method for painting using grain pattern artistic conception, i.e., fills out in the different zones of grain pattern and paint corresponding group Figure is knitted, jacquard weave tubular zone uses warp backed weave, and color passes through to be spaced arrange in vain for salmon pink and milk, and ground portion uses plain weave, warp Yarn is that milk is of the same colour in vain, and weft yarn is off-white color;It is described below:
A areas:Off-white color warp thread all sinks to lower floor, is not involved in same weft yarns, salmon pink warp thread upper strata and weft yarn with Plain weave, show orange tone;
B areas:Salmon pink warp thread all sinks to lower floor, is not involved in same weft yarns, off-white color warp thread upper strata and weft yarn with Plain weave, aobvious milk are adjusted in vain, and red horizontal line represents salmon pink warp thread;
C areas:The combination in left B areas and right A areas;
D areas:The combination in left A areas and right B areas;
E areas:The plain weave of pipe, off-white color warp thread and the white weft yarns of milk are not played;
The combinations of warps of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric:Pipe is through part:Using the low special warp thread of combed cotton:Salmon pink JC14.6tex: off-white color JC14.6tex=1: 1;Plain weave ground part:Off-white color warp thread JC14.6tex;
Weft yarn combination of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric:Consider elastic foundation effect, width shrinkage and quality factor, normal weft JC14.6tex: JC14.6+40D=4: 1.
As optimization:The tightness of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric be:Fabric warp-wise tightness takes 72% or so;Broadwise tightness takes 40% or so.
As optimization:The latitude bullet is through weft count through pipe fabric:Warp thread uses JC14.6tex (40S), weft yarn is adopted With the common yarns of JC14.6tex and JC (14.6+4.4) tex (40S+ 40D) spandex core-spun yarn, fabric breadth 156CM;According to tightness Calculation formula:
Broadwise tightness (EJ:Warp-wise tightness/%;Pj:Fabric warp count/root/10cm;Ew:Broadwise tightness/%;Pw:Fabric weft count/root/ 10cm) extrapolate:
As optimization:The latitude bullet plays pipe width through pipe fabric:Pipe width is 8mm, and the ground portion width for not playing pipe is 16mm。
Beneficial effect:The specific advantage of the present invention is as follows:
Elastic force part latitude tubular tissue can make fabric have modal third dimension concurrently, take elasticity comfortably in the present invention Sense.
Formed in the present invention through the active force that tube effect is the long line of elastic force fill yarns float for relying on envers.The ground of pipe is not played Portion preferably uses the tissue based on plain weave, while advantageously forming through pipe, is also beneficial to control elasticity and weaving width shrinkage, fabric matter Ground is smooth.
Tube portion is played in the present invention to do colored decoration with through double or its hetero-organization, play the work made something perfect even more perfect With it is geometry or symmetrical flower pattern that flower pattern, which is tried one's best, and it is neat and well spaced to be advantageous to tubular portion.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the present invention through tubing figure;
Fig. 2 is the present invention through tubular construction schematic diagram;
Fig. 3 is the grain pattern figure of the present invention;
Fig. 4 is that the A district's groups of invention knit structural representation;
Fig. 5 is that the B district's groups of invention knit structural representation;
Fig. 6 is that the C district's groups of invention knit structural representation;
Fig. 7 is that the D district's groups of invention knit structural representation.
Embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment
1. latitude bullet is through pipe fabric principle of compositionality
Rise pipe portion position rise pipe principle be using the latitude for sinking to envers float long line (such as Fig. 1) caused by lateral pull make Obtain envers to shrink, front convexes to form tubulose (such as Fig. 2), if being used as pipe latitude to float using elastic force weft yarn (or tram) Long line, then grain cross is flexible.It can commonly be organized with 3/1+1/1 through pipe fabric, thus opened using common shedding cam (cam) The can weaving of mouth loom, thus most weaving enterprises have the Equipment Foundations produced.
It can play pipe portion position and the compound small jacquard in ground portion using dobby machine, the setup actions such as layer are changed through rocketing, in table Decoration.
Latitude bullet series can be divided into normal straight tube through pipe cloth through pipe fabric, through rocket through pipe cloth, through it is double rocket through pipe cloth, Clipping and carving is through pipe cloth, part through pipe cloth, random pipe cloth etc..
2. design of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric
It is crucial with production technology that design of the latitude bullet through pipe cloth is now inquired into exemplified by through double rocket through pipe cloth.
2.1 grain pattern artistic conceptions design
Grain pattern integral layout uses the elastic force jacquard weave with raised stereoeffect through tubing and flat does not play pipe It is spaced plain weave, has English alphabet " S " and Chinese character " one " as decoration through jacquard weave on pipe.The grain pattern form of one circulation, Layout and each several part size marking such as Fig. 3, wherein pipe width are the width after expansion.Because plain weave point is more, right Elastic force weft yarn binding force is stronger.Thus mainly the long line of the fill yarns float of tube portion by provides the Weftwise stretch of fabric, depending on bullet The fiber number of power weft yarn, the width of cop and the ratio of elastic force weft yarn and normal weft.Portion is favourable using plain weave with not playing pipe Width shrinkage when weaving width shrinkage in control, and reducing fabric finishing, and quality is smooth.
2.2 organizational structure design
The design is used through double figured texture weave through pipe portion position, and letter and Chinese character are showed using warp backed weave, due to group Knit figure very university degree literary grace and fill out the method for painting with grain pattern artistic conception, i.e., fill out in the different zones of grain pattern and paint corresponding organization chart, jacquard weave tubular zone Using warp backed weave, color passes through to be spaced arrange in vain for salmon pink and milk, and ground portion uses plain weave, and warp thread is that milk is of the same colour in vain, latitude Yarn is off-white color.It is described below:
A areas:Off-white color warp thread all sinks to lower floor, is not involved in same weft yarns, salmon pink warp thread upper strata and weft yarn with Plain weave, show orange tone, such as Fig. 4;
B areas::Salmon pink warp thread all sinks to lower floor, is not involved in same weft yarns, off-white color warp thread upper strata and weft yarn with Plain weave, aobvious milk are adjusted in vain, and such as Fig. 5, red horizontal line represents salmon pink warp thread (similarly hereinafter);
C areas:The combination in left B areas and right A areas, such as Fig. 6;
D areas:The combination in left A areas and right B areas, such as Fig. 7;
E areas:The plain weave of pipe, off-white color warp thread and the white weft yarns of milk are not played, and figure omits.
Combinations of warps:Fine and smooth to ensure, close quality, pipe is through part:Using the low special warp thread of combed cotton:Salmon pink JC14.6tex: off-white color JC14.6tex=1: 1;Plain weave ground part:Off-white color warp thread JC14.6tex.
Weft yarn combines:Consider elastic foundation effect, width shrinkage and quality factor, normal weft JC14.6tex: JC14.6+ 40D=4: 1
Elastic force weft yarn (tram) proportion is too high, then weaving and dyeing and finishing width shrinkage are too high[2], be unfavorable for breadth control and Road deep processing afterwards.
2.4 fabric compactnesses design
Fabric compactness and thread count relation are to influence the key of fabric construction[3]If tightness is excessive, elastic recovery Property be affected, and warp count is big, opening sharpness is impacted, and weaving broken end is high;The too small then weaving of tightness and the contracting of dyeing and finishing width Rate is larger, is typically referred to the general tightness design of elastic force poplin cloth.Fabric warp-wise tightness takes 72% or so;Broadwise tightness takes 40% or so, realize the style requirement of fabric " cunning, bullet, refreshing ".2.5 design through weft count
Filling yarn density should calculate that this series of products warp thread uses according to the tightness and filling yarn density of design JC14.6tex(40S), weft yarn uses the common yarns of JC14.6tex and JC (14.6+4.4) tex (40S+ 40D) spandex core-spun yarn, base Cloth breadth 156CM.According to tightness calculation formula:
Broadwise tightness(this In, EJ:Warp-wise tightness/%;Pj:Fabric warp count/root/10cm;Ew:Broadwise tightness/%;Pw:Fabric weft count/root/ 10cm) extrapolate:
2.6 pipe width
Require to determine pipe width according to the decoration of fabric layout needs attractive in appearance and elastic wearability, this has been due to pipe Width directly affects fabric elasticity and width shrinkage, if design it is wider through pipe while, it is desirable to fabric elasticity and width shrinkage It is smaller, then need to reduce elastic force weft yarn and the arrangement ratio of normal weft.The pipe width of the design is 8mm, does not play the ground portion of pipe Width is 16mm, as Fig. 3 is marked.
2.7 split flower process
Split flower and be to determine the terminal position of flower pattern grain pattern and color through circulation, preferably select dyed yarn radical is more, of light color, group Knit close place[4]For the design, it is preferably such that flower pattern is symmetrical, to simplify warping row's bobbin and warp sizing machine expansion reed row's flower Type operates.Should not be close to selvedge through tubing, pipe for elastic force.Correlation computations are as follows
2.7.1 color is designed through circulation by flower pattern artistic conception, and it is 8mm to play pipe width.Through tube portion through double figured texture weave, color Arranged is 1 orange:1 milk is white, and the basic organization warp thread circulation radical that dermatoglyphic pattern of the fabric includes is 8.
Warp thread radical=Pj × play pipe width=5 × 8=40 roots, because being warp backed weave, milk is white and salmon pink warp thread It is respectively 20 that radical, which is,.Pipe is 40/8=5 through position basic organization period.
With not playing the individual layer plain weave of pipe through part:Warp thread is that milk is of the same colour in vain, width 16mm, then portion's off-white color warp thread root Number=16 × 5=80 roots.
The one total radical of flower circulation (a flower warp thread number)=through pipe radical+ground portion radical=40+80=120 roots;
2.7.2 split colored calculating:4/dent of ground tissue;4/dent of Selvage Stitch;40, side yarn;
Then:
Therefore:
To avoid pipe through part close to selvedge, bar headed by first portion determines by off-white color that is wider, not playing pipe plain weave, again Determine that color is arranged:Color is arranged:[the white 80+ of milk (1 is orange, and 1 milk is white) × 20] × 65-36, then by first bar with subtracting a number sum HalfPattern row end is placed in, remaining remainder (80-58=22) is split and is placed in head end, redefine and split flower Full width color is arranged afterwards is:[(orange 1, milk is white 1) × white 58] of 20+ milk × 65-36 (milk is white), i.e. last flower subtracts by the white 22+ of milk First 36 (milk is white).
3. elastic force is crucial through pipe fabric production technology
Elastic force is thin high density yarn dyed fabric, tissue compartment arrangement warp backed weave and plain weave through pipe fabric, should use two Warp systems, weft yarn use normal weft and elastic force weft yarn mixing wefting insertion.
3.1 warping
Through tubing to requiring that cloth cover is neat and well spaced, thus warping requires that " tension force, arrangement, winding " three is uniform, to this product, Piece yarn tension is uniformly even more important, and using CGGA114-180 type warping machines, the machine is directly passed using collective's creeling, frequency control Dynamic warp beam, three roller synchronous brakings, the problem of effectively avoiding the big axle bounce of warping, tension fluctuation, using " medium velocity, small in technique The mode of tension force, middle winding ", zone configuration tension pulley, first 7 grams, in 6 grams, it is latter 5 grams, 8 grams of side yarn, side yarn tension suitably increases, It is straight to be advantageous to selvedge during weaving, speed of beaming 450m/min, speed is too high to cause tension force high, easily cause warping broken end to increase Add.Press roller presses 300cN.There is notable difference in diameter between paying special attention to avoid the bobbin of collective's creeling during warping, so as to influence The uniformity of unwinding tension, strict implement technique are got on the bus.Ensure that warping disc is not crooked, is looked into set pattern five between two discs in equipment Point spacing, " strangling yarn axle " is avoided to avoid occurring slack list axle in sizing.Due to there is an off-white color yarn, during operation, oil is avoided Dirt is stained with, and falling on the ground bobbin can not directly use, and avoid making troubles to final finishing.
Due to through close big, " viscous, simultaneously, twist " easily occurs for sizing, and sizing will use subdivision lease rods by the warp thread of each warp beam Root is separated from each other with root, thus subdivision twisted wire is placed during warping, and 60 meters of parkings, spinner wear subdivision twisted wire in advance.
For yarn spacing during road sizing after increase, strengthen slurries impregnability, ensure the complete of serous coat, warping process should not be adopted With " the few axle of bull " technique, the trim-beam number theoretical calculation minimum number of axle is 12 axles, actual to use 14 axles, with 557 × 13+559 of axle
Compared to 650 × 12 axles, per axle yarn spacing increase by 17% during starching, simultaneously because a cylinder sizing line capacity increases Add, hard waste rate declines, sizing time shortens on year-on-year basis, efficiency increase.
3.2 sizing
3.2.1 starching principle:Sizing uses the warp sizing machine of Benniger -200, and the machine is tandem sizing box, double-clip-double-nip, full drying cylinder shape Formula, High-pressure Sizing, elongation Discrete control, drying temperature can be achieved and be easily controlled.Fabric is thin extra-high crammed bullet kind, using spray Gas loom is weaved, and the purpose of slurry should be in line with the principle of the certain rate of sizing of wear-resisting, coated filoplume, guarantee.Because yarn linear density Small, loom speed is high, and opening beating is frequent, and sizing will ensure certain wearability, and its secondary guarantee opening is clear, improves sizing Filoplume covering rate is high, reduces because filoplume excessively causes during pneumatic picking weft yarn to block and the edge looped weft of weft elastic fabric, sizing Elongation can suitably increase, and reduce residual elongation, help to reduce through the double part that rockets through contracting Slippage.
3.2.2 sizing and axle:Warp backed weave is used due to local, the intertwined point of a pipe portion position is few, with not playing pipe plain weave Part intertwined point is more, and warp thread weave shrinkage has differences, and can use twin shaft weaving plan, realize pipe through part with ground through part Warp tension each individually controls.Pass through with needing and pipe warp thread on twice sizing again and and pass.Loom upper tube warp thread passiveness is sent Through, the body warp paramodulant warp let-off.This mode adds sizing time and cost.Compare through experiment, we are using ground warp and pipe Warp thread together and closes new departure of slurry, is computed:
Orange colour tube warp thread radical=spending number × often spends radical=65 × 20=1300 roots, warping matches somebody with somebody the axle of axle 650 × 2;
Off-white color pipe warp thread radical=spending number × often spends radical=65 × 20=1300 roots, warping matches somebody with somebody the axle of axle 650 × 2;
Off-white color body warp radical=7800-1300-1300=5200 roots, warping match somebody with somebody the axle of axle 520 × 10.
Tension difference caused by warp yarns frequency during in order to solve weaving, we are using to the axle of off-white color 2 and orange The pipe warp thread of 2 axles of color increases the mode of brake force in warp sizing machine unwinding area's rear axle support, increases the mode of preliminary draft, solves weaving When relaxed due to pipe warp tension caused by menopause tablet drop, the problem of cut-offfing without reason, make although being braked due to larger drawing-off With causing pipe warp thread elasticity to lose, but because the intertwined point of pipe warp thread is less, warp thread stretching and reed beating frequency are low, base This is without the problem that therefore breaks end outside amount.
Before sizing doffing, with two lease cords respectively by off-white color pure color yarn layer (10 axles composition), salmon pink yarn layer (2 axle) Cop layer (2 axle) is played with off-white color to separate, and is easy to distinguish location order when gaiting.
3.2.3 slashing technique:Because more (7800) starchings of total quantity of warps are with " tandem sizing box, first middle viscosity, light pressure, rear weight Pressure, middle tension force, medium velocity, middle moisture regain, after waxing, subdivision are twisted, tightly wound " it is process route.
Slurry formula:
Using high-performance graft starch CD-DF868:50Kg, PVA1799:12.5Kg CD-PT:5Kg;Smooth agent SLMO- 96:2Kg;Solid content 10.5%, the rate of sizing 11%, regain 6-7%;Elongation 1.0%;After waxing 0.3%.
Use the mixing slurry based on starch to advantageously reduce dividing sinker resistance, reduce regeneration filoplume, PVA is advantageous to docile hair Plumage, increase serous coat wearability;CD-PT makes serous coat softness, flexible;SLMO-96 has the function that to make the smooth anti-attrition of sizing.
Regain is unsuitable too low, helps to reduce cotton balls time cloth although regain is too low, leasing area can be caused to fall slurry More, secondary filoplume also increases, serous coat pliability, flexibility decrease during weaving.
Slashing technique parameter:It is shown in Table the slashing technique parameter of 1. table 1
Note:Funnel water number 3.7 seconds.
Starch finishing effect:Enhancing rate 46%, subtract the rate of stretching 27%, filoplume covering rate 68%, good axial ratio 83%.
3.3, which pass process, uses subregion threading method, the more plain weave in intertwined point and be through page 1,2,3,4 it is comprehensive, selvedge is worn It is comprehensive in page 1,2, Selvage Stitch threading method 1,1;2nd, 2, weft rib weave is formed, is advantageous to increase in yarn density while passes through when reducing Friction between yarn, mitigate cut edge.Through the double tissue that rockets be through page 5,6,7,8 it is comprehensive, training pass spinner by two leasings The yarn that line separates with off-white color pipe warp with determining yarn order, especially off-white color through not obscure.
3.4 weaving process
Weaved using domestic GA708II electronic dobby air-jet looms, because weft yarn is normal weft and elastic force weft yarn by 4: 1 Mixed latitude is set, because normal weft and elastic force weft yarn line density approach, therefore need not set respectively two kinds of weft yarns jet time and The weft insertion technique of pressure, weft insertion technique parameter mainly is determined by object of elastic force weft yarn, with due regard to the characteristics of normal weft.On Machine technological design is in line with " early to be open, compared with hightension, the slightly higher back rest, slow weft insertion technique, speed:450rpm.min-1, opening time 290 °, warp tension 190kgf, fell pad+2mm, back beam height+2cm, twist the side time:It is left:280 ° of right sides:10°.Early opening is then Warp thread is big to weft yarn angle of contact during beating, and weft yarn is not easy backwash, larger especially for thread count, is not easy the flat of urgent weft yarn Line ground part.Hightension is advantageous to urgent weft yarn, and the slightly higher back rest is advantageous to levels warp tension and approached, is advantageous to restart through two The neat and well spaced outward appearance of flower tissue, is reduced through contracting Slippage.
Because high branch elastic force weft yarn is core-spun elastic yarn, it is that heart yarn is fine with outsourcing cotton using the wefting insertion difficulty of air-jet loom Dimension obvolvent is close not as good as conventional yarn, and air pressure is too high, and elastic force weft yarn is easily dispelled by weft tracting flow causes yarn to separate to form " dew with silk Core ", " barebacked silk ".Because weft yarn screen resilience is good, air pressure is too low, then Weft force deficiency, and elastic force core filaments produce " quiet ", made It is not in place into weft yarn traction, or assigned position delay is reached, weft yarn resilience when reed reaches fell, produce and export side portion latitude Contracting.Using " low pressure, main jet are less than auxiliary jet pressure, extend the technique i.e. main jet pressure of the auxiliary spray injecting time of last group 0.25Mpa, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.28Mpa, to remain effective traction to weft yarn;Last is organized auxiliary nozzle injecting time and extended To 180 ° -290 °.Keep drawing until shed open closes completely the weft yarn for having arrived offside shed open edge.
Spinner is required in operation when processing stops platform, tail end weft yarn introduced before main burner, is knotted with yarn, it is fixed Heart yarn, main burner is then fed again, make its normal wefting insertion.
Long line is floated because fabric floats long line or latitude through the warp that the double position back side that rockets is concentration, especially every 4 latitudes A piece latitude bullet for having root to be used for pipe floats long line, takers-in seta axle trace easily occurs, and latitude is floated long line and hooked by seta skin when serious Rise, cause fault, destroy flower pattern, thus use anti-weave, but facts have proved anti-weave through double Jacquard is unclear, fault It is not easy to find, last we still use positive weave, and seta axle latex is viscous to twine 0#Quartzy emery cloth.Serve preferable effect.It is logical Above effort is crossed, effectively reduces looped weft, for actual measurement First Grade Percentage Before Cloth Repairing up to 87%, storage Grade A reaches more than 95%.Efficiency To 89%.
Elastic force part latitude tubular tissue can make fabric have modal third dimension concurrently, take elasticity comfortably in the present invention Sense.
Formed in the present invention through the active force that tube effect is the long line of elastic force fill yarns float for relying on envers.The ground of pipe is not played Portion preferably uses the tissue based on plain weave, while advantageously forming through pipe, is also beneficial to control elasticity and weaving width shrinkage, fabric matter Ground is smooth.
Tube portion is played in the present invention to do colored decoration with through double or its hetero-organization, play the work made something perfect even more perfect It is geometry or symmetrical flower pattern to be tried one's best with, flower pattern, and it is neat and well spaced to be advantageous to tubular portion,
Strictly carry out splitting colored calculating in the present invention.Ensure that pipe not close to selvedge, arranges cylinder for warping and sizing row's flower is created It is convenient.
Piece yarn tension is uniformly in warping process of the present invention, to rising, pipe floral axis increases preliminary draft to sizing, weaving process pays attention to bullet The terminal extension injection Filling Insertion Time of power weft yarn.Batch and make every effort to avoid seta axle trace.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, and anyone can show that other are various under the enlightenment of the present invention The product of form, however, make any change in its shape or structure, it is every that there is skill identical or similar to the present application Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (1)

1. a kind of latitude bullet is through pipe fabric, it is characterised in that:Grain pattern integral layout of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric is used with projection The elastic force jacquard weave of stereoeffect be spaced through tubing and the flat plain weave for not playing pipe, have English words through jacquard weave on pipe Female " S " and Chinese character " one " are as decoration;
The organizational structure design of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric be:Use through pipe portion position and adopted through double figured texture weave, letter and Chinese character Being showed with warp backed weave, organization chart fills out the method for painting using grain pattern artistic conception, i.e., fills out in the different zones of grain pattern and paint corresponding organization chart, Jacquard weave tubular zone uses warp backed weave, and color passes through to be spaced arrange in vain for salmon pink and milk, and ground portion uses plain weave, and warp thread is milk Bai Yise, weft yarn are off-white color;It is described below:
A areas:Off-white color warp thread all sinks to lower floor, is not involved in same weft yarns, salmon pink warp thread is on upper strata and weft yarn with plain weave Tissue interweaves, and shows orange tone;
B areas:Salmon pink warp thread all sinks to lower floor, is not involved in same weft yarns, off-white color warp thread is on upper strata and weft yarn with plain weave Tissue interweaves, and shows off-white color and adjusts, red horizontal line represents salmon pink warp thread;
C areas:The combination in left B areas and right A areas;
D areas:The combination in left A areas and right B areas;
E areas:The plain weave of pipe, off-white color warp thread and the white weft yarns of milk are not played;
The combinations of warps of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric:Through tube portion:Using the low special warp thread of combed cotton:Salmon pink JC14.6tex: Off-white color JC14.6tex=1:1;Plain weave ground part:Off-white color warp thread JC14.6tex;
Weft yarn combination of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric:Consider elastic foundation effect, width shrinkage and quality factor, normal weft JC14.6tex:JC14.6+40D spandex core-spun yarn=4:1;
The tightness of the latitude bullet through pipe fabric be:Fabric warp-wise tightness takes 72%;Broadwise tightness takes 40%;
The latitude bullet is through weft count through pipe fabric:Warp thread uses JC14.6tex, and weft yarn uses the common yarns of JC14.6tex With JC14.6+40D spandex core-spun yarns, fabric breadth 156CM;According to tightness calculation formula:
Broadwise tightnessEJ:Warp-wise Tightness/%;Pj:Fabric warp count/root/10cm;Ew:Broadwise tightness/%;Pw:Fabric weft count/root/10cm is extrapolated:
The latitude bullet plays pipe width through pipe fabric:Pipe width is 8mm, and the ground portion width for not playing pipe is 16mm.
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