Fabric and Apparel Performance Testing Protocol
Fabric and Apparel Performance Testing Protocol
Fabric and Apparel Performance Testing Protocol
TRIMS / ACCESSORIES
PVC LEATHER, PLASTICS COATED LININGS LEATHER Conditional List
S = Standard Performance Tests NATURAL & SYNTHETIC & BLEND F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric REGENERATED FIBERS FIBERS Form
FIBER CONTENT LABELING 1) Fiber Content F
1) Blended Fibers 2) Single Fiber a) Specialty Wool Fibers such as Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc. b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lambs Wool c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur 4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request
2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7) 8)
CARE LABELING Dimensional Stability to Laundering Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning Appearance after Laundering Appearance after Dry Cleaning Colorfastness to LaunderingF Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning
F
S S S S S S
S S S S S S S
(Leather Clean)
S S S S S S S Conditional List
Trims are Tested same as Garments Trims may require additional testing, refer to (Leather Clean) Trim Section S S
(Leather Clean)
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine S S BleachF (For USA Only) 9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knits) Conditional List Conditional List Single Knits such as Jersey, French Terry, Pique, etc. using Single Yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE Flammability (General Wearing 10) Conditional List Conditional List Apparel)F 1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2 (100 gm/m2, 23 momme) 2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface Exemptions - Fabrics made Entirely or in Combinations of Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers For additional information, refer to "Flammability Testing" in this Section of the Manual
Conditional List
TESTS
APPAREL
TEXTILES
LEATHER METALS
TRIMS / ACCESSORIES
PVC LEATHER, PLASTICS COATED LININGS LEATHER Conditional List
S = Standard Performance Tests NATURAL & SYNTHETIC & BLEND F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric REGENERATED FIBERS FIBERS Form
12) Colorfastness to WaterF Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles 13) Colorfastness to LightF Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / Prints, Bright Colors, Golf and Tennis Apparel, Leather 14) Colorfastness to PerspirationF Silk, Golf and Tennis Apparel Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool 15) Water Swimwear Colorfastness to Sea Water 16) Swimwear pH F 17) In White Color Fabric or For China 18) Tensile Strength (Woven)F 19) Seam Slippage (Woven)F 20) Tearing Strength (Woven)F 21) Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) Seams determined to be with Weak Sewing Threads or Low Stitch Density 22) Abrasion Resistance (Woven)F Plain Fabric 23) Pilling ResistanceF Raised Fiber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made of Wool, Acrylic, Polyester/Cotton or Rayon Blends 24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane 25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Weak Knits, Very Light or Open Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in 26) StorageF Contrast Colors / Color Block 27) Colorfastness to Ozone (woven)F Denim or White 28) Pile RetentionF Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velvet, Chenille, etc. 29) Bowing and SkewingF 30) Fabric WeightF Restricted Substances Tests
Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid Check/Stripe
Conditional List
Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List S S S S S S Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List S S S Conditional List
Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List
Conditional List
Conditional ListConditional List S S Refer to Section in the Manual on Restricted Substances Protocol for Apparel... ADULT
APPAREL
TEXTILES
NATURAL & SYNTHETIC & REGENERATED BLENDED FIBERS FIBERS Conditional List Conditional List LEATHER
TRIMS / ACCESSORIES
METALS PVC PLASTICS LEATHER, COATED LEATHER LININGS
Conditional List
CARE LABELING Dimensional Stability 2) (Shrinkage) to Laundering Dimensional Stability 3) (Shrinkage) to Dry Cleaning 4) Appearance after Laundering 5) Appearance after Dry Cleaning 6) Colorfastness to Laundering
F F
S S S S S S S Conditional List
S S S S S S S Conditional List S
(Leather Clean)
S S S S S S S Conditional List
7) Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine 8) BleachF (For USA Only) 9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knits)
Trims are Tested same as Garments Trims may require additional testing, refer S to (Leather Clean) Trim Section S (Leather Clean)
Single Knits such as Jersey, French Terry, Pique, etc. using Single yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE Flammability (General Wearing 10) Conditional List Apparel)F 1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2 (100 gm/m2, 23 momme) 2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface Exemptions- Fabrics made Entirely or in Combination of Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers For additional Information, refer to "Flammability" in this section PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE 11) Colorfastness to WaterF Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles 12) Colorfastness to CrockingF 13) Colorfastness to PerspirationF
Conditional List
Conditional List
Conditional List S S
Conditional List S S S S
Conditional List S
TESTS
S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form
APPAREL
TEXTILES TRIMS / ACCESSORIES
NATURAL & SYNTHETIC & LEATHER LEATHER, REGENERATED BLENDED METALS PVC PLASTICS COATED LININGS FIBERS FIBERS LEATHER Conditional Conditional List 14) Colorfastness to LightF Conditional List List Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / Prints, Bright Colors, Leather Colorfastness to Saliva (Under 15) S S S 36 months) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Conditional 16) Pool Water Conditional List List Swimwear Colorfastness to Sea Water Conditional 17) Conditional List Swimwear List 18) Tensile Strength (Woven)F S S S F 19) Seam Slippage (Woven) S S S 20) Tearing Strength (Woven)F S S S Conditional Conditional 21) Seam Breaking Strength Conditional List List List Seams determined to be with Weak Sewing Thread or Low Stitch Density Conditional Conditional 22) Abrasion Resistance (Woven)F Conditional List List List Plain Fabric 23) Pilling ResistanceF Raised Fiber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made from Wool, Acrylic, Polyester / Cotton or Rayon Blends 24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane 25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Weak Knits, Very Light or Open Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin 26) Pile RetentionF Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velour, Chenille, etc. 27) pH Colorfastness to Dye Transfer 28) in StorgageF Contrast Colors / Color Block Colorfastness to Ozone 29) (Woven)F Denim or White Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List
Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List S Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List S Conditional List
Conditional List
S Conditional List
Conditional List
Conditional List
31) Fabric WeightF Child Product Safety Tests and Requirements Restricted Substances Tests
Fabric Weight Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One Time Only
Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
ASTM D 3776 ASTM D 3775 AATCC 135 (modified) Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes
All All
Washable Fabrics
AATCC 158
ASTM D 3882 16 CFR Parts 1610 ASTM D 3512, 30 minutes ASTM D 4685 (Face 300 cycles / Back 100 Cycles) ASTM D 4966
All All Non-Exempt Fabrics As requested Pile Fabrics Plain Fabrics up to 7.5 oz/yd2 Plain Fabrics over 7.5 oz/yd2 Linen Fabrics, Stiff
Abrasion Resistance
ASTM D 3885
Fabric (e.g. densely No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles woven or chemical Minimum finished stiffening with very little drape)
Tensile Strength
Durable press, Top stitch Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining Intimate
Color Change: 3.0 or better, 1200 Cycles 50 Lbs, Minimum 25 Lbs, Minimum < or equal 3 oz/yd2: min 25lbs; >3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs 2.5 Lbs Minimum
Tearing Strength
ASTM D 1424
Seam Slippage
ASTM D 434
Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles Blouse, Skirt, Dress, 1.5 Lbs Minimum Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles Intimate < 3 oz/yd2: min 1.5lbs; 3~6oz/yd2: min 2.0lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 2.5lbs Shorts, Pants, 25 Lbs Minimum
Characteristic
Test Method
End Use
Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles Skirt, Dress, Blouse, Shirt, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles Intimate
Requirements
1/4" Seam Opening / Separation 15 Lbs Minimum 1/4" Seam Opening / Separation
Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print AATCC 61, 2A Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times Refer to Liz# 3 washes are required for Appearance after Wash Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
< 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs Maximum Seam Opening / Separation All, Except Silk and 25 Lbs Minimum Lining ASTMD D 1683 Silk or Lining 15 Lbs Minimum Intimate < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs All Bottom Weight Elongation: 15 %, minimum Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 4%, maximum, 30 minutes ASTM D 3107 (4.0 Lbs) All Top Weight Elongation: 10%, minimum Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 6%, maximum, 30 minutes Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or All better COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 All All Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better
AATCC 132
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change and Staining: COLOR BLOCK 4.5 or better(white) refer to Liz#4 4.0 or better (other color) Dry: 4.0 or better All, except Below Wet: 3.0 or better Dark Shades (Black, Dry: 4.0 or better Red, Navy) Wet: 2.5 or better Indigos Dry: 3.0 or better; Wet: 2.0 or better Pigments Dry: 3.5 or better; Wet: 2.5 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better All Staining: 3.0 or better COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 All Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Water
AATCC 107
Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC 15
AATCC 16,
Colorfastness to Ozone AATCC 109 Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool AATCC162 Water Colorfastness to Sea Water AATCC106
All, Except Silk Color Change: 4.0 or better Silk Color Change and Staining: Contrast Colors, 4.5 or better(white) Color Block refer to 4.0 or better (other color) Liz#4 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) All 5.0 6.5 (other colors) Denim or White 3.5 or better @ 2 cycles Color Change: 4.0 or better Swimwear Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Swimwear Staining: 3.0 or better
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
Fabric Weight Fabric Count (Wales & Courses) Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
ASTM D 3776 ASTM D 3887 AATCC 135 Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes
Refer to Liz#1
Flammability
Pilling Resistance
ASTM D 3512, 30 Minutes No Glue on Edges; Sew All edges if needed Fabrics cannot undergone ASTM D3512
4.0 Minimum
3-4 Minimum
> or = 150 gm/m : 55 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum 2 < 150 gm/m : 45 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum Sheer Knits (Lace, Mesh, etc.): 30 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum
2
Burst Strength
ASTM D 3786
All
Pile Retention
ASTM D 4685
Pile Fabrics
3.5 Minimum
Sweater, Fabric with Filament Snagging Resistance ASTM D 5362 Yarns weighing 3.5 Minimum under 140 gm/m2, loose structures Colorfastness to Laundering Color Change: 4.0 or better All Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Staining: 3.0 or better AATCC 61, 2A Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Color Change and Staining: Refer to Liz# 3 COLOR BLOCK Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are 4.5 or better(white) Refer to Liz#4 required for Appearance after Wash 4.0 or better (other color) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) All Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 All Staining: 3.0 or better
Characteristic
Test Method
Applicable For
Requirements
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
Color Change and Staining: COLOR BLOCK 4.5 or better(white) Refer to Liz#4 4.0 or better (other color) Dry: 4.0 or better All, Except below Wet: 3.0 or better Dark Colors (Black, Dry: 4.0 or better Wet: 2.5 or better Red, Navy) Pigments Indigos All Dry: 3.5 or better Wet: 2.5 or better Dry: 3.5 or better Wet: 2.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 6.5 (other colors)
Colorfastness to Water
AATCC 107
COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4 20 AFU 5 AFU All, Except Silk Silk All
Colorfastness to Light
AATCC 16,
Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC 15
COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4 Contrast Colors / Color Block Refer to Liz#4 Swimwear Swimwear All
Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163 Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water Colorfastness to Sea Water pH Value AATCC162 AATCC106 AATCC 81
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
10
Test Method
AATCC143 AATCC 88C AATCC 124 AATCC 22 AATCC 35
Requirements
3.5 Minimum per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes 3.5 Minimum per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes 4.0 Minimum Per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes Original: 100 Rating After 3x Washes: 70 Rating Minimum 1 gram Maximum on original and after 3 x washes
Wicking
Antimicrobial
Original 20 x Washes 100 70 Minimum 6* 4 Minimum 6* 4 Minimum *Tolerance 1 1.0 second or Less AATCC 79 5 cm after 10 minutes Minimum for woven "Ciba" Method/ Refer to Liz# 2 10 cm after 30 minutes Minimum for knits Original: 0% Bacterial Growth AATCC 147 (Leaching Type Agent) 20 Washes: 0% Bacterial Growth AATCC 100 (Non-Leaching Type 99.9% Reduction, Minimum Agent) ASTM E 2149 (Non-Leaching Type Original: 99.9% Reduction, Minimum Agent) 20 Washes: 80% Reduction, Minimum 40 or above UPF Rating AATCC 22 AATCC 118 Drop Test DuPont Method (AATCC 193) AATCC 183 Non-Mesh Fabrics 250 gm/m2 or above may be exempted
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
11
Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing Maximum, Length= - 3%, Width= -3% Dimensional Stability to Laundering Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5% for two-way 3 times washing is required for Wool AATCC 150 Stretch Fabrics and/or Wool blended, Novelty Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5% for four-way Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or Other Brands: After 1 wash Stretch fabrics with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Kate Spade: After 3 washes No Distortion Between Components Print No Growth Appearance after Laundering Visual 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Acceptable Appearance Other Brands: After 1 wash Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or Kate Spade: After 3 washes with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5%, for two-way Dimensional Stability to Dry Stretch Fabrics Cleaning AATCC 158 Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5%, for four-way Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Stretch Fabrics Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content No Distortion Between Components No Growth Appearance after Dry Cleaning
Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
Visual
Acceptable Appearance
Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends. Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, etc Other than Tested AATCC 20 / 20A For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be Fabric) based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance. Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY are in Garment) 25 Lbs Minimum (Pants, Jeans, Short, Jackets, All Women Styles) Seam Slippage (If additional trims, ASTM D 434 15 Lbs Minimum (Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Silk, Lining) novelty seams, bias cutting, etc.) Maximum Seam Opening / Separation Seam Torque (Spirality) (Based on AATCC 179 5% Maximum Style) Additional Tests for Garments Without Fabric Testing Fabric Weight (oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from standard. Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% Tolerance from standard. Pilling Resistance ASM D 3512, 30 minutes 3.0 Minimum ASTM D 4685 Pile Retention Face- 300 Cycles 3.5 Minimum, Face and Back Back- 100 Cycles ASTM D 4966 Abrasion Resistance 10,000 Cycles No Rupture, Fabrics weighing up to 7.5 oz/yd2 15,000 Cycles No Rupture, Fabrics weighing over 7.5 oz/yd2 Abrasion Flex ASTM D 3885 No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles Minimum. Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets: 50 bs Minimum Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining: 25 Lbs Minimum Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles: Tearing Strength 2.5 Lbs Minimum ASTM D 1424 Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles:
12
Test Description
Seam Breaking Strength
Test Method
ASTM D 1683
Requirements
1.5 Lbs Minimum 25 Lbs Minimum (All, except Silk and Lining) 15 Lbs Minimum, Silk or Lining
All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods:
ASTM D 3107
(4.0 Lbs)
Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
Elongation: 10% Minimum Net Growth: 6% Maximum, 30 minutes Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5 Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5 Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0 Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) 4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk Staining: 4.0 or better. 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 6.5 (other colors)
AATCC 132
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
Colorfastness to Water
AATCC 107
Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC 15
20 AFU 5 AFU
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
13
Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or AATCC 150 Maximum, Length: - 5%, Width: -5% Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, No Distortion Between Components; No Growth Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Other Brands: After 1 wash Glitter Print/ Flocking Print Kate Spade: After 3 washes Appearance after Laundering Visual 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Acceptable Appearance Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Other Brands: After 1 wash Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Kate Spade: After 3 washes Glitter Print/ Flocking Print Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based AATCC 158 Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, No Distortion Between Components; No Growth
and/or Fiber Content
Acceptable Appearance
Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/-3% Tolerance for Blends Fiber Content (If Garment includes AATCC 20 / 20A Fibers, Trims, Other than Tested Fabric) For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.
Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims are Class 1 ONLY 16 CFR Parts 1610 in Garment) Additional Tests for Garments without Fabric Testing Cut-Sew - Fabric Weight (gm/m2 or ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from Standard. oz/yd2) Sweater Weighing Scale, Sweater Weight +/- 3% Lbs from standard Lbs/Dozen Stitch Count (Wales x Courses) ASTM D 3887 + / - 5% from standard Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 55 PSI Minimum. Before Wash: 7% Maximum Fabric Distortion Resistance to Torque (Spirality) Refer to Liz# 1 Seam Torque: 5% Maximum ASTM D 3512 Pilling Resistance 4.0 Minimum 30 Minutes, No Glue on Edges 3.5 Minimum, Sweater or Fabrics with Filament Snagging Resistance ASTM D 5362 Yarns Weighing under 140 gm/m2 or Loose structures Colorfastness to Laundering Color Change: 4.0 or better Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Staining: 3.0 or better AATCC 61, 2A/ Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining: Refer to Liz#3 Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times 4.5 or better(white) washes are required for Appearance after 4.0 or better (other color) Wash Colorfastness to Non-chlorine bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining: Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0 or better; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5 or Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8 better Pigment/Indigo: Dry 3.5/ Wet 2.5 (pigment), 2.0 (Indigo)
14
Test Description
Test Method
Requirements
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) 4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk Staining: 4.0 or better 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 6.5 (other colors)
Colorfastness to Water
AATCC 107
Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC 15
20 AFU 5 AFU
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
15
Requirements
Additional Tests When Applicable Color Change: 3.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Dry 3.0 or better Wet: 2.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) 4.0 or better, All, Except Suedes 4.0 or better, Suedes 25 Lbs Minimum 20 Lbs Minimum Class 1 ONLY 4.0 7.5
Colorfastness to Cleaning
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 116
Colorfastness to Water
AATCC 107
20 AFU 5 AFU
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
16
Visual
Acceptable Appearance
Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends. No Tolerance for Single Fiber Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, etc Other than Tested Fabric) AATCC 20 / 20A For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual findings even the results are within 3% tolerance. Class 1 ONLY < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs Maximum Seam Opening / Separation
Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims are 16 CFR Parts 1610 in Garment) Seam Slippage (If additional trims, novelty seams, bias cutting, etc.) (Woven) ASTM D 434
Seam Torque (Spirality) (Based on AATCC 179 5% Maximum Style) Additional Tests for Garments Without Fabric Testing Fabric Weight (oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from standard. Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% Tolerance from standard. < or equal 3 oz/yd2: min 25lbs Tensile Strength (Woven) ASTM D 5034 >3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs < 3 oz/yd2: min 1.5lbs Tearing Strength (Woven) ASTM D 1424 3~6oz/yd2: min 2.0lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 2.5 lbs Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) ASTM D 1683 < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs
17
Test Description
Test Method
Requirements
4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs 55 PSI Minimum. Woven: 3.0 Minimum Knit: 4.0 Minimum
All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods
Elongation: 10% Minimum Net Growth: 6% Maximum, 30 minutes Modulus: +/- 15 Recovery: 85% Elongation: +/- 10% 7lbs min or 35% elongation Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5 Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5 Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0 Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) 4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 6.5 (other colors)
Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, AATCC 61, 2A/ Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ / Refer to Liz# 3 Glitter Print /Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001)
AATCC 132
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
Colorfastness to Water
AATCC 107
Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC 15
Colorfastness to Light
AATCC 16,
20 AFU 5 AFU
pH Value
AATCC 81
Additional Tests for Bras Only 1&2 Hook and Eye closure: 2.4 min & 1.5 max Refer to Liz#6 3&4 Hook and Eye closure: 3.4 min & 2.5 max
15lbs
18
Test Description
Joining Strength - Center Front Joining (Cup to Cup) - Strap Joining (Strap to Cup) Attachment Strength - Strap - Embellishment Bra Closure Strength (Hook and Eye)
Test Method
ASTM D1683 mod 15lbs
Requirements
Clear Elastic: 20lbs Woven/ Knit Elastic: 25lbs 17 lbs/10 secs 1 Hook Bras: 25 lbs 2 3 Hook Bras: 35 lbs
Additional Tests for Padded (Water/ Gel Pad) Bras Only Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (for AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Color Change: 4.0 or better Bra Pad through garment only) Standard Measure Use Resistance Compression (burst Instron Compression Mode 100 psi minimum strength) with Compression Jaws Report Actual Content/ Material ID FTIR analysis Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
19
5. DOWN
Test
Content Labeling As Claimed Must be 100% down to label as 100% Down, All Down, Pure Down Must be minimum 75% down to label as unqualified Down +/- 2 to 5% Tolerance for unavoidable variations
Test Method
Requirements
Composition
ASTM D4524
Species Goose or Duck Cleanliness Oxygen Number Turbidity Penetration Penetration of Resistance of Cloth Certification Goose, Duck, etc. originated from Asia and China require Health Certificate and Fumigation Certificate due to Avian Influenza. The health certificate should consists species common name; scientific name; country of origin and farm raised/taken from wild. If not from Asia and China, vendor has to submit Declaration from material supplier to state the feathers were treated and sourced from origin and are not prohibited or endangered. Federal Standard 191A, Method 5530 Minimum Penetration (1 or 2) IDFB Part 7 IDFB Part 11- A < 10 < 10 NTU Microscopic As claimed. Must be 90% of the plumage to label the specie
Apparel with Down Must test garment according to care instruction and pass
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
20