Sadia Alam, Lecturer (FDT), Chittagong BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology

Fabric Defects
Sadia Alam, Lecturer(FDT) , Chittagong BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology Page 1
Fabric Defects
Faults in the Woven Fabrics:
Broken Picks:
During weaving, if the weft yarn is broken and it is not rectified, then fabric defects
happen in width of the fabric. If it is a design fabric then the design is also hampered.
Reason:
A broken pick is the result of a break or cut in filling yarn, which results in the insertion
of a partial pick in the fabric.
Reasons:
If the speed of the machine is too high, then beat force of the reed to weft yarn will
be too high.
If the pressure of the relay nozzle and elca is too high.
Remedies:
We have to reduce speed of the machine.
We have to reduce the pressure of relay nozzle or elca.

Fabric Defects
Broken Ends:
For any reason if the warp yarn is broken, then it creates a defect in fabric in the direction
of length. A defect in the woven fabric caused by a warp yarn, that was broken during
weaving or finishing.
Reasons:
Poor preparation
Weak or irregular yarn
Excessive warp tension
If a warp yarn breaks and if the dropper doesn’t fall on the dropper bar, then this
fault arise.
Remedies:
Operator should walk around the machine to observe these sorts of problem.
If the problem is in the dropper bar then, we have to change that bar.
Fabric Defects
Bad selvedge:
The selvedge of a fabric maybe marked as bad if it is wavy, thick and thin and has broken
weft yarn, etc. If the selvedge is bad, whether precious fabric it is, it will look bad.
Fabric Defects
Reason:
If stretches or looseness is applied on the picks yarn the bad selvedges is occurred.
If the temple is not properly used during weaving.
Loose or Tight selvedge yarn in the Beam.
Remedies:
During weaving loom operator should be careful on the issues.
Thick & Thin place:
If the yarn in fabric is thick in some places and thin in other places, then thick–thin
places are created in fabrics. These defects are more visible after finishing of fabrics.
Reason:
This comes due to the thick, thin places that presents in the fabric.
Remedy:
The yarns have to be checked by QC during the time of procurement to avoid

these faults.
Fabric Defects
Loose warp:
This type of fault is produced in woven fabric when the tension of warp yarn is slow.
Reasons:
If the tension of warp yarn is low in warping, then this fault appears.
If the beam contain broken warp yarn.
Remedies:
The warp tension in warping should be equal and uniform.
We have to motivate the worker to take care of the fabric.
Fabric Defects
Tight ends:
If the tension of warp yarn is more than the other ends present in the loom then this type
of fault is produced in woven fabric. Warp yarn in a woven fabric that was under
excessive tension during weaving or shrank more than the normal amount.
Reason: If the tension of a warp yarn is more than the other ends present in the loom then
this problem arise. This over tension produced on warp during warping and weaving.
Remedies: To solve this problem we have to find these ends and have to adjust the
tension.
Fabric Defects
Fabric Defects
Fabric Defects
Fabric Defects
Fabric Defects
Fabric Defects
Faults in the Knitted Fabrics:

A defect of the knitted fabric is an abnormality which spoils the aesthetics i.e. the clean &
uniform appearance of the fabric & effects the performance parameters, like; dimensional
stability etc.
There are various types of defects which occur in the Knitted fabrics of all types caused
by a variety of reasons. The same type of defects may occur in the fabric due to a variety
of different causes e.g. Drop Stitches, Spirality etc.
Drop Stitches (Holes)

Drop Stitches are randomly appearing small or big holes of the same or different size
which appear as defects in the Knitted fabrics.
Hole in fabric
Major Causes:
• High Yarn Tension

• Yarn Overfeed or Underfeed
• High Fabric Take Down Tension
• Defects like Slubs, Neps, Knots etc.
• Incorrect gap between the Dial & Cylinder rings.
Remedies:
1. Ensure uniform yarn tension on all the feeders with a Tension Meter.
2. Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated as per the required Stitch Length.
3. The fabric tube should be just like a fully inflated balloon, not too tight or too
slack.
Fabric Defects
4. The yarn being used should have no imperfections like; Slubs, Neps & big knots
etc
5. The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly adjusted as per
the knitted loop size.
Barriness:
Barriness defect appears in the Knitted fabric in the form of horizontal stripes of uniform
or variable width.
Causes:

• Count Variation
• Mixing of the yarn lots
• Package hardness variation
Remedies:
• Ensure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders.

• The average Count variation in the lot should not be more than + 0.3
• Ensure that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot .
• Ensure that the hardness of all the yarn packages is uniform using a hardness
tester.
Fabric Defects
Broken Needles/ Laddering:
Defects caused by the broken needles show prominently as vertical lines parallel to the
Wales. There are no loops formed in the Wale which has a broken needle.
Laddering effects
Causes:

• Bad Setting of the Yarn Feeders
• Old & Worn out Needle set
• Cylinder Grooves are too tight restricting needle movement
• Breakage of hook or butt in needle.
Remedies:
• Ensure uniform & the right Yarn tension on all the feeders.
• Keep the recommended gap between the Yarn Feeders & the Needles.
• Periodically change the complete set of needles.
• Remove fly or blockage from groove.
• Replace defective needle.
Snagging:
Snagging appears on the knitted fabric surface as a pulled up yarn float showing up in the
form of a large loop.
Fabric Defects
Causes: Caused by the pulling or the plucking of yarn from the, fabric surface, by sharp
objects.
Remedies:
• Inspect & rectify the fabric contact points on all the machines (Soft Flow Dyeing,
Tumble Dryer & Centrifuge etc), on which snagging is taking place.
GSM Variation:
The fabric will appear to have a visible variation in the density, from roll to roll or
within the same roll of, the same dye lot.
Causes:
• Roll to roll variation in the, process parameters, of the fabric, like; Overfeed &
Width wise stretching of the dyed fabric, on the Stenter, Calender & Compactor
machines.
• Roll to roll variation in the fabric stitch length.
Remedies:
• Make sure that all the fabric rolls in a lot, are processed under the same process
parameters.
• The Knitting Machine settings, like; the Quality Pulley diameter etc. should
never be disturbed.
Fabric Defects
Horizontal Stripes:
These are caused by unevenness in the courses; they traverse horizontally and repeat
themselves regularly or irregularly.
Causes:
 Deflector in dial cam brought into tucks position.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
 Differences in the yarn running-
intension. Remedies:
 The machine must be mounted horizontally.
 Yarns of same lot should be used.
 Check cams positioning
Spirality:
Spirality appears in the form of a twisted garment after washing. The seams on both the
sides of the garment displace from their position & appear on the front & back of the
garment.
Causes:
• High T.P.I. of the Hosiery Yarn

• Uneven Fabric tension on the Knitting machine.
• Unequal rate of Fabric feed on the Stenter, Calender & Compactor machines.
Fabric Defects
Remedies:
• Use the Hosiery yarns of the recommended TPM level for Knitting.
• Ensure uniform rate of feed of the dyed fabric on both the edges while feeding the
fabric to the Calender, Compactor or Stenter machines.
Bunching-up or Thick and Thin Places:

Visible knots in the fabric are referred to as bunching up. They appear as beads and turn
up irregularly in the fabric. Can build up resulting in a ‘cloudy’ appearance. More
irregular the yarn, more pronounced is the ‘cloudy’ appearance.
Causes:
 Thick and thin places in the yarn;
 Fabric take-up too weak.
Remedies:
 Preventing count or lot mixing.
 Maintaining uniform yarn tension.
 Fabric take-up should function properly.
Fabric Defects
Bunching-up or Thick and Thin Places
Fabric Defects
Fabric Defects
Fabric Defects
Fabric Defects
Soil Stripe:
Soil stripes can appear both in the direction of wales as well as courses. Soil stripes in the
direction of the wales are solely caused by the knitting machine. In most cases they are so
called needle stripes; they occur when individual needles have been replaced or when the
working of mechanical or automatic oiling or greasing devices is defective.
Causes:
 Defective oiling or greasing.
 Sudden machine stoppage.
 At the time of defective needle
 Replacing.
Remedies:
 Consciously oiling or greasing.
 Being aware of needle changing.

Sadia Alam, Lecturer (FDT), Chittagong BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Sadia Alam, Lecturer (FDT), Chittagong BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Sadia Alam, Lecturer (FDT), Chittagong BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Fabric Defects

Faults in the Woven Fabrics:

We have to reduce speed of the machine.

We have to reduce the pressure of relay nozzle or elca.

Weak or irregular yarn

Excessive warp tension

During weaving loom operator should be careful on the issues.

Thick & Thin place:

The yarns have to be checked by QC during the time of procurement to avoid

If the beam contain broken warp yarn.

The warp tension in warping should be equal and uniform.

We have to motivate the worker to take care of the fabric.

Faults in the Knitted Fabrics:

Drop Stitches (Holes)

• High Yarn Tension

• High Yarn Tension

• Ensure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders.

Broken Needles/ Laddering:

• High Yarn Tension

• High T.P.I. of the Hosiery Yarn

Bunching-up or Thick and Thin Places:

 Thick and thin places in the yarn;

 Fabric take-up too weak.

 Preventing count or lot mixing.

 Maintaining uniform yarn tension.

 Fabric take-up should function properly.

Bunching-up or Thick and Thin Places

 Defective oiling or greasing.

 Sudden machine stoppage.

 At the time of defective needle

 Consciously oiling or greasing.

 Being aware of needle changing.

You might also like