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92783. Sädesax (Ear of Corn) – raglan pullover

Sädesax is a simple stockinette pullover knitted from the top down. Details such as the Italian cast-on and bind-off as well
as the feminine balloon sleeves give the sweater elegance and character.

YARN Select no. 5 (42% baby alpaca, 28% extra fine wool, 30% cotton, 109 yd / 100 m / 50 g)
GAUGE Approx. 17 sts x 26 rnds in stockinette on U. S. 6 / 4 mm needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust needle size to obtain
correct gauge if necessary.
SIZES XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
SWEATER CHEST Approx. 34 (34¼, 37, 38½, 40¼, 43¾, 45¼, 47¾, 49¾) in / 86 (87, 94, 98, 102, 111, 115, 121, 126) cm
SWEATER LENGTH Approx. 19¾ (20½, 21¼, 22, 22¾, 23¾, 24½, 25¼, 26) in / 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66) cm
SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 17¾ (17¾, 18¼, 18¼, 18½, 18½, 18¼, 18¼, 18⅛) in / 45 (45, 46.5, 46.5, 47, 47, 46.5, 46.5, 46) cm
YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS Approx. 300 (350, 350, 400, 400, 450, 450, 500, 500) g (color 22203, Tumeric Powder)
NEEDLES U. S. size 1.5 / 2.5 mm: 16 in / 40 cm circular and U. S. 6 / 4 mm: 24 or 32 in / 60 or 80 cm circular and, both sizes:
set of 5 dpn
NOTIONS, Stitch markers
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **

Matching cap: 92784

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand between 2 stitches from back to front and knit into front loop = right-
leaning increase.
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between 2 stitches from front to back and knit into back loop = left-leaning
increase.
Italian cast-on: See instruction video on Järbo’s YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/IzdN_a4_v9s)
Italian bind-off: See instruction video on Järbo’s Youtube channel: https://youtu.be/CzhDQh1h7Mg

NECK AND YOKE

With smaller size circular and using Italian cast-on method, CO 90 (94, 94, 98, 98, 102, 102, 106, 106) sts. Join, being careful
not to twist cast-on row; pm for beginning of rnd.
Knit around in k1, p1 ribbing until ribbing measures 1⅜ (1⅜, 1⅜, 1½, 1½, 1½, 1¾, 1¾, 1¾) in / 3.5 (3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5,
4.5) cm.
Change to larger size circular and stockinette.

Mark the 4 raglan lines as follows:

Pm on 1st st of rnd (= 1st raglan line), k12 (13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16) = left sleeve.
Pm on next st (2nd raglan line), k31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34, 35, 35) = front.
Pm on next st (= 3rd raglan line), k12 (13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16) = right sleeve.
Pm on next st (4th raglan line), knit last 31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34, 35, 35) = back.

Raise back neck by working back and forth in stockinette with short rows and wrapped stitches (applies to all sizes) as
follows: K1 after 1st marker on left sleeve, sl next st purlwise with yarn in front (wyf) of next st; turn.

Sl first st purlwise wyf, purl until you’ve worked 1 st after 4th raglan line on right sleeve, slip next st purlwise wyf; turn.

On the following short rows you will join the turned sts with the strand wrapping the stitch when you come to them:
Sl first st purlwise wyf, knit until you’ve worked the 5 sts after the 1st raglan line on left sleeve, slip next st purlwise wyf;
turn.
Sl first st purlwise wyf, purl until you’ve worked 5 sts after the 4th raglan line on right sleeve, slip next st purlwise wyf; turn.
Sl first st purlwise wyf, knit until you’ve worked 10 sts after the 1st raglan line on left sleeve, slip next st purlwise wyf; turn.
Sl first st purlwise wyf, purl until you’ve worked 10 sts after the 4th raglan line on right sleeve, slip next st purlwise wyf;
turn.
Sl first st purlwise wyf, knit to 1st raglan marker.

© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.
Design: Srine Hoelgaard
Version 1

Now work around in stockinette, increasing at all 4 raglan lines on every other rnd as follows:
K1 (= 1st raglan line), M1L, knit to 2nd raglan marker, M1R.
K1 (= 2nd raglan line), M1L, knit to 3rd raglan marker, M1R.
K1 (= 3rd raglan line), M1L, knit to 4th raglan marker, M1R.
K1 (= 4th raglan line), M1L, knit to 1st raglan marker, M1R.
= 8 sts decreased.
Rep the raglan increases on every other rnd 15 (16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28) times.
Knit 3 rnds without increasing (all sizes). Work a raglan increase rnd.
Knit 5 rnds without increasing (all sizes). Work a raglan increase rnd = 136 (144, 152, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts
increased and a total of 226 (238, 246, 258, 274, 294, 310, 330, 346) sts.
Knit 5 rnds without increasing (all sizes).

Divide for sleeves and body as follows:

K1, place 46 (49, 51, 54, 58, 63, 67, 72, 76) sts on holder for left sleeve, with backwards loop, CO 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10)
sts, k67 (68, 72, 75, 79, 84, 88, 93, 97), including 3rd raglan st for front, place 46 (49, 51, 54, 58, 63, 67, 72, 76) sts on holder
for right sleeve, with backwards loop, CO 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts, k67 (68, 72, 75, 79, 84, 88, 93, 97) for back = 146
(148, 160, 166, 174, 188, 196, 206, 214) sts for body.

Knit round on body until it measures 11 (11½, 11⅝, 12, 12¼, 12½, 12½, 12¾, 12⅞) in / 28 (29, 29.5, 30.5, 31, 31.5, 31.5, 32,
32.5) cm from underarm.
Change to smaller size circular. Work around in k1, p1 ribbing for 2 (2, 2¼, 2¼, 2⅜, 2⅜, 2½, 2½, 2½) in / 5 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6,
6.5, 6.5, 6.5) cm. BO using Italian bind-off method.

SLEEVES
Place 46 (49, 51, 54, 58, 63, 67, 72, 76) held sts of one sleeve onto larger size circular. Pick up and knit 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10,
10, 10) sts along cast-on underarm sts = 52 (55, 59, 62, 66, 73, 77, 82, 86) sts.
Marker center of underarm (between 2 sts). Knit around until sleeve measures 6¾ (6¾, 7, 7, 7½, 7½, 7½, 7½, 7½) in / 17
(17, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19) cm from underarm cast-on.

On next round, increase as follows:

K6 (7, 4, 6, 8, 6, 8, 6, 8), *M1R, k10 (all sizes)*; rep * to * 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) times, M1R, end with k6 (8, 5, 6, 8, 7, 9, 6, 8)
= 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) new sts and a total of 57 (60, 65, 68, 72, 80, 84, 90, 94) sts.

Knit 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14) rnds without increasing.

On next round, increase as follows:

K6 (8, 4, 6, 8, 7, 8, 6, 8), *M1R, k11 (all sizes)*; rep * to * 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) times, M1R, end with k7 (8, 6, 7, 9, 7, 10, 7,
9) = 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) new sts and a total of 62 (65, 71, 74, 78, 87, 91, 98, 102) sts.

Knit without increasing until sleeve measures 15¾ (15¾, 16¼, 16¼, 16¼, 16¼, 15¾, 15¾, 15½) in / 40 (40, 41, 41, 41, 41, 40,
40, 39.5) cm from underarm. Knit 1 rnd decreasing 24 (25, 31, 34, 36, 45, 49, 54, 58) sts evenly spaced around = 38 (40, 40,
40, 42, 42, 42, 44, 44) sts rem.
Change to smaller size dpn. Work around in k1, p1 ribbing for 2 (2, 2¼, 2¼, 2⅜, 2⅜, 2½, 2½, 2½) in / 5 (5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6.5,
6.5, 6.5) cm. BO using Italian bind-off method.

Make second sleeve the same way.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Wash sweater carefully by hand or on wool program in washing machine. Lay flat to dry.

© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.
Design: Srine Hoelgaard
Version 1

MEASUREMENTS
A ≈ Approx. 34 (34¼, 37, 38½, 40¼, 43¾, 45¼, 47¾, 49¾) in / 86 (87, 94, 98, 102, 111, 115, 121, 126) cm
B ≈ Approx. 19¾ (20½, 21¼, 22, 22¾, 23¾, 24½, 25¼, 26) in / 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66) cm
C ≈ Approx. 6¾ (7, 7½, 8, 8¼, 8¾, 9½, 10, 10¾) in / 17 (18, 19, 20, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5, 27) cm
D ≈ Approx. 13 (13½, 13¾, 14¼, 14½, 14¾, 15, 15¼, 15½) in / 33 (34, 35, 36, 37, 37.5, 38, 38.5, 39) cm
E ≈ Approx. 12¼ (12¾, 13¾, 14¼, 15½, 17, 17¾, 19, 20) in / 31 (32, 35, 36, 39, 43, 45, 48, 51) cm
F ≈ Approx. 17¾ (17¾, 18¼, 18¼, 18½, 18½, 18¼, 18¼, 18⅛) in / 45 (45, 46.5, 46.5, 47, 47, 46.5, 46.5, 46) cm

© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.
Design: Srine Hoelgaard
Version 1

TIPS & SHORTCUTS

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t match the
gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t match that in the
pattern, your item will not be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To determine
the right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment size depending on
how much ease you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the garment measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around each
other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several
rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on the
right side.

Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use
another yarn (even in the same yarn group).

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to
time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from
another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS

KNITTING
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable
needle, CO = cast on, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR = end of
row/round, fl = front loop, g st = garter stitch, inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit
(stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, m = marker, mm
= millimeters, mc = main color, p = purl (stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) =
round/rounds, RH = right hand needle, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, ssk = slip, slip, knit,
st(s) = stitches, St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, tog = together, WS = wrong side, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with
yarn in front, yo = yarn over

CROCHETING
approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue, dc = double crochet, dec
= decrease, dtr = double treble crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double crochet, htr = half treble crochet, inc = increase, m
= marker, mc = main color, rep = repeat, rnd/rnds = round/rounds, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts =
stitches, tog = together, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

DIFFICULTY

* = Suitable for those who have just started knitting or crocheting

** = Suitable for those who have knitted or crocheted some before
*** = Suitable for those who are experienced knitters or crocheters

© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.
Design: Srine Hoelgaard