Internship at Alok Industries LTD Garments Division, Saily, 2010
Internship at Alok Industries LTD Garments Division, Saily, 2010
Internship at Alok Industries LTD Garments Division, Saily, 2010
Internship at Alok
Industries Ltd
Garments Division,
Saily, 2010
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We, Ashish Kumar Annepu and Lalit Kishore Singh of NIFT Hyderabad express our in depth
gratitude to Mr. SANDEEP MAHAJAN (VP garments) and Mr. SAMUEL MUPPAVARAPU
(IE HOD) of Saily plant for guiding us along with road map before and throughout the
training.
We are heartily thanking to below member of Alok Vapi HR Team for extending their
courtesy & guideline during our stay with Alok industries Vapi.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
We would also like to thank our Honourable Director Mr K.S .Pratap and Respected
Registrar Mr D. Rajesham and the following faculties for guiding us through from the
beginning and successful completion of our internship Ms. Sharmila Sure (Course Co-
ordinator-DFT dept ,Internship mentor)
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
PART 1
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
INTRODUCTION
B F Tech at NIFT is a very practical oriented course that equips students with all the
necessary skill sets that the industry expects. As a part of the course a two month internship
at a garmennt firm is mandated, which aims at imparting a practical understanding of
various processes related aspects of the sector. Internship enables students to get a better
understanding of a company, correlate theory with practice, provides an opportunity to study
and organsiation and its products and processes and also gaining knowledge on its
functioning.
We chose to pursue the internship at M/S Alok Industries Garments division at Saily,
Silvassa. This company is India’s largest vertically integrated mill with an envious export
record accompanied by a dominant position in the domestic market.
In compilation of this Internship report, all out efforts have been made to present a
comprehensive picture of the activities undertaken at Alok Industries in the garment unit
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
1. Company profile
1.1 Introduction
Alok industries Ltd is one of India’s largest Vertically Integrated Company. It is head
quartered in Mumbai with its manufacturing units in Vapi, Silvassa & Navi Mumbai.
The company is an end to end provider of integrated textile solutions with five core
divisions: - Cotton yarn, Apparel fabrics, Home textiles, and Garment and Polyester
yarns.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
2. ORGANISATION CHART/HIERARCHY
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
OCM
As per TNA
Pattern and Tech-Pack Capacity
material Fit sample
marker analysis booking
procurement
Needle and
Trims PP sample attachment Build up plan
details
Embroidery
Cutting
Printing
Sewing
Finishing
Dispatch
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
Part 2
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
GARMENTS DIVISION
12. Embroidery
13. Printing
14. IT
These departments work in coordination with each other for the purpose of fulfilling
the objective of quality and mass produced garments or Apparels
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
Physical Recording
Quality Checking
Receive of Actual
Consumption as per IE Dept.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
The goods are received and unloaded at the unloading bay. The fabrics are received
and stacked in “TO BE INSPECTED” area. Physical check is done on the received
goods to confirm details like Style No, colour, P.O.no, weight per lot; etc which are
provided in the PI(Production information) sheet. Physical check is done for 100% of
the received quantity/stock. A sample swatch from the bulk is sent to buyer for
approval. After Physical check the goods are transferred to their respective storage
areas after which quality inspection is done. Quality inspection consists of checking
the actual GSM, shrinkage, shade and colour continuity card using various testing
tools. The colour continuity card is used for the purpose of dividing the fabric into
various batches for avoiding shade variation within garment /batches. First Quality
inspection is done on 10% of the quantity using Four point system. If the inspection
criteria are not met then again 15-20% of the remaining quantity is checked. Fabrics
that fail the inspection criteria are sent back to the mill for replacements as the fabric
sourcing is in-house. A fabric checking machine is used for woven garments
whereas for knits physical checking is done. Quality inspection takes around 2 days
to complete. If one particular lot fails then fabric Dept must have details like weight of
the lot and Storage area etc. Lot passed with Four point system either has to be
issued to cutting with the DC as against the actual consumption determined by IE
Dept. The Dept also maintains the Reconciliation Report for each Style for
referencing. Record maintenance of the In-word, Out-word and Stock Record for
each Style is maintained both physically and in computerized formats. Fabric Trim
chart is also developed style wise to confirm required fabrics are received. Sampling
fabric for sampling purposes is stored in racks different from bulk fabrics. The fabric
dept mainly communicates with cutting, merchandising, IE, sampling for performing
its responsibilities.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
IE
DISPATCH SAMPLING
FABRIC PROD.
PPC MERCHANDI SING
STORE
QUALITY IT
CUTTING
IE dept- Fabric details like length (woven), diameter/width and GSM (knits)
are sent to IE for consumption determination.
PPC dept- Fabric receival date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC
for planning and scheduling.
Quality dept- Quality inspections are carried out and sent for verification and
approvals.
Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the
fabric received and also receives the PI sheet of orders.
IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.
Sampling dept- The fabric for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store. These fabrics are specially kept and checked to ensure
quality.
Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the fabric coming into the factory and
outward of the fabric lot going back to the mill from store is maintained by the
dispatch.
Cutting dept- The cutting department relies on the store for quality clearance
and issue of the fabric for cutting purposes.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
Trims received
Physical check
Storage
Receival of
consumption from IE
Issue to sewing
/cutting
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
Trims and accessories are received in bulk at the fabric store where physical
accounting of the stock is done. Visual quality inspection is carried out for the 100%
of the stock. Inspection consists of checking the physical properties like colour,
shape, size and design. This inspection takes around 48-36 hrs to complete. An
inspection report is sent to the quality, IE and PPC departments. The inspected stock
is brought to the accessory store for storage. Movable four level racks are used for
storage purposes with the name of buyer on them to store the trims respectively. A
trim chart is also maintained style wise for tracking their receivals. The accessory
store issues trims as per indent. The rejected stock is returned to the vendor as the
sourcing is not in-house. In-ward/out-ward, issue and RECO are maintained on a
daily basis.
SAMPLING
DISPATCH
PROD MERCHANDISING
(INWARD OUTWARD)
ACCESSORY
STORE
PPC IT
(TRACKING) (MIS)
SEWING/CUTTING
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
PPC dept- Trims received date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC
for planning and scheduling.
Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the trims
received and also receives the PI sheet of orders.
IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.
Sampling dept- The trims for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store.
Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the trims coming into the factory and
outward of the trim lot going back to the vendor from store is maintained by
the dispatch.
Cutting/Sewing dept- The departments rely on the store for issue of the trims
for cutting/sewing purposes.
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Thread to Order
received
Colour matching
Approval from
Merchandiser
Purchase Requisition
sheet (manual)
PR Approval
PR registration
Generate P.O
Thread ordering
Received
Inspection
Storage
Issue
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
Requisition slip
Thread cones
/boxes issued
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
SAMPLING
DISPATCH
PROD.
(INWARD MERCHANDISING
OUTWARD)
THREAD
STORE
PPC IT
(TRACKING) (MIS)
SEWING
PPC dept- Thread received date, quantity and other details are sent to the
PPC for planning and scheduling.
Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the
thread received and also receives the consumption and thread details of
orders.
IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through
various SAP modules.
Sampling dept- The thread for the purpose of sample piece stitching is
provided by the store.
Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the thread coming into the factory and
outward of the thread going back to the vendor from store is maintained by
the dispatch.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
FIT SAMPLE
BUYER
COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL
SIZE SET
COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL
PRE PRODUCTION
SAMPLE
BUYER
COMMENTS AND
APPROVAL
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TECH PACK
CONCEPT SAMPLE
APPROVAL
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TECH PACK
ANALYSIS
PATTERN MAKING
FABRIC ANALYSIS
SAMPLE CUTTING
SAMPLE
CONSTRUCTION
FINISHING AND
PACKAGING
MERCHANDISER
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
The department is responsible for making various samples for buyer approvals.
Sampling starts right after Order Confirmation Meeting (OCM). The buyer tech-packs
are sent to the production merchandiser who in coordination with sampling
department develops requisite samples or re-engineers the existing one. Based on
the requirement of buyer various samples are prepared before production.
Department analyzes the tech-pack received and prepares patterns accordingly on
CAD (Computer Aided Design) or manually. During the pattern making fabric
analysis is done and ordered for sample development. Accordingly samples are cut
and tailor stitched. After the samples are created they are sent to the merchandiser
for buyer approval. The comments given by the buyer are analyzed and acted upon.
Sampling ensures that anything that goes into production is approved with no further
changes. The tailors are in three groups with each group developing single sample.
The approved fit sample is sent to the IE department for production feasibility and
costing purposes. After confirmation on the PP sample the production merchandiser
creates the PI sheet including buyer comments received. Records regarding
incoming fabric, samples developed and samples despatched are maintained on a
regular basis.
2.5 TERMINOLOGIES
o Fit sample- It is the first sample developed in compliance with the spec
sheet. It is optional to create the sample using substitute fabric and
trims. Usually fit samples are of middle range size. Fit approvals are
required from the buyer on this sample.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
o Size set- This consists of a group of four to five graded sizes. This is
required to obtain approval on the grading of sizes. Any comments
received on fit samples are applied here. These samples are made
from actual fabric, trims and packaging materials exactly as per tech-
pack.
o Pre-Production (pp) sample- This is the final sample developed with
all comments received from the buyer using actual trims and fabric.
This is the last sample in which changes from buyer is accepted. This
sample acts as reference for production. It is developed with strict
adherence to the tech pack. After approval a FFP (fit for production)
seal is put up on it. It then is called the FFP sample.
o TOP (top of production) sample- This sample is the top most sample
from the pilot run from a real production line. Buyer approval is required
on this sample in order to proceed further. The purpose of the sample
is to determine whether all requirements are met while mass
production.
o Concept sample- It is the first sample created in order to present the
fit and concept of the garment. It may be developed in substitute fabric
and trims. The measurements can be in tolerance range.
o Red seal- This is similar to size set samples of two to three sizes with
fit conformance. The sample can be developed in substitute fabric and
trims.
o Black seal- It is similar to the PP sample and is made of actual fabric
and trims. This sample is optional and is developed on buyer demand.
o Gold seal- This sample is similar to TOP sample and is required to
determine if all specifications are met during production.
Photo shoot sample- This sample is developed for buyer’s marketing and
advertising purpose. It has to be made from actual fabric and trims. It is
developed in between Fit and PP samples.
Salesman sample- (SMS Sample) This sample is developed in quantities of
8-12 garments. These samples are required by the buyer for his marketing
purposes. These samples are exactly as per tech packs on actual fabric and
trims.
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PROD.
MERCHANDISING
FABRIC,THREAD,
ACCESSORY QUALITY
STORE
SAMPLING
PRINTING EMBROIDERY
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
Tech-pack from
sampling
Base Pattern
development
Grading
Final pattern
Marker making
Calculate
consumption (IE)
Revised Marker
making
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
PROD.
MERCHANDISIN
G
IT QUALITY
CAD
SAMPLING CUTTING
IE
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
• QUALITY- Quality department receives the sealed patterns for quality control
of cut pieces from cutting.
• CUTTING- The cutting receives the marker plan and pattern pieces for
cutting.
• IE- IE calculates the fabric consumption as per the marker plan developed so
as to determine and confirm the fabric consumption.
• IT- It maintains Network layout between Gerber Cutter and the CAD, and the
software and hardware.
CAD
No. of shifts 1
No. of Pattern Master 2
No. of Marker Makers 1
Area Covered 96 sft (12’ X 8’)
Machinery 1. Gerber digitizer (16 button cursor)
2. Gerber Plotter (Infinity series)
3. 4 Desktops
CAD Software Gerber Accumark
PDS
AccuNest
Storage Racks-2
Tables 2
Tubelights 14 (7 X 2)
Fans 4
Compliance norms Metal free zone
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
PI SHEET
QUALITY CONTROL
INSPECTION
PRODUCTION
PROGRAMME
FABRIC ISSUE
REQUISITION
FABRIC ISSUE
SPREADING
CUTTING
TICKETING
BUNDLING
STORAGE
ISSUE
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
PROD
MERCHANDISING
SPREADING
MAINTAINANCE AND SEWING
CUTTING
PRINTING QUALITY
EMBROIDERY
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
• PROD MERCHANDISING- Provides the PI sheet and all the details of the
order to be cut.
• FABRIC STORE- It issues the fabric for cutting process as per the PI sheet.
• SEWING- Cutting issues all the cut pieces required for sewing process.
• QUALITY-Quality checks all the cut parts of a garment before they are sent to
sewing.
• CAD- The pattern and the marker plan for spreading and cutting is provided
by the CAD department.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
Pipnig-1
End bits-1
Manual cutting(knits)-1
Fusinng-1
Bundling and ticketing-3
Quality checking-2
Tubelights 1320 (660 X 2)
Fans 96 (96 x 2)
Compliance norms Metal free zone
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
5. SEWING/PRODUCTION
5.1 PROCESS FLOW
CUTTING
ISSUE
LINE ISSUE
FEEDING
SEWING
END LINE
CHECKING
FINISHING
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
IE
PPC QUALITY
SEWING
THREAD,
ACCESSORY MAINTAINANCE
STORE
FINISHING/
CUTTING
PACKAGING
• IE- The department is responsible for preparing machine layouts, line setup,
managing productivity, efficiency, line balancing, time and method study.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
• FINISHING- It receives the production output directly from the sewing lines for
further processing.
• CUTTING- The cutting department issues cut parts as input for the sewing
lines.
• PPC- It keeps track of the production so as to ensure that deadlines are met
and to take necessary correctional measures.
SEWING
No. of shifts 1
No. of Workers 500
No. of Quality Checker 20
No. of Quality assurance 7
Area Covered 51408 sft (including finishing)
Machinery Refer annexure.
MIS SAP (PP module)
Storage Racks-20
Tables 80
Tubelights 2226 (1113 X 2)
Fans 320 (20 X 16)
Compliance norms Metal free zone
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
6. QUALITY
6.1 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES
IE
EMBROIDERY/
SEWING
PRINTING
FINISHING /
CAD QUALITY
PACKAGING
PROD.
MERCHANDISE CUTTING
R
FABRIC STORE
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
• IE- The IE department sends the Operation Bulletin and machine layout. The
quality department determines the check points (in line) by identifying the critical
operations based upon the buyer comments received upon the PP sample and
the complex operations.
Due to this it is called Traffic Light System. Using this system the QC
can identify the workstation where quality issue originates. In case of Red
colour the production from the workstation is stopped and solutions are looked
for. The QA personnel look after major quality concerns and checks the
details of the End Line checking. The QC is also responsible for developing
AQL reports at the end of the shift based upon buyer AQL levels at end-line
checking. The QC based upon his estimates for the production of the day,
selects the required produced pieces criteria and determines the sample size
for the AQL. QC then randomly inspects throughout the day of the required
sample size and compiles the AQL report. The AQL report is generated
similarly for in-line checking by the checker. The AQL reports helps in
classifying the defects into critical, major and minor criteria. The quality also
approves the size set pieces during pre-production phase.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
• FINISHING- Quality department is responsible for checking that all the buyer
requirements are met before dispatch. The quality is checked after pressing,
folding, and packaging. After pressing the garments are sent to the final
checking tables where teams of checkers check the garments for various
defects. The defects found are classified and segregated for Spotting,
Alteration, Mending and Rejection. Minor spots are mended on the checking
table using petrol guns. The alterations are sent back to the respective lines
based on the line number sticker attached under the label by the end-line
checker. Mending is done on a separate table after which checking is done
again. Rejection pieces are sent to the rejection room and recorded. Each
Checker a sticker under the garment label containing a number specific to the
checker himself. Then after checking the garments are sent for tagging. After
folding it is checked whether it has been done as per buyer requirements.
Similarly various stages of packaging also checking are carried out to ensure
adherence to buyer compliance.
• CUTTING- Quality department regularly checks the cut pieces as per the
patterns provided by the CAD. Department is also involved in the pre
production phase where before bulk cutting, size set samples are approved
before and after pressing. The quality checks the markers before cutting to
ensure all requisite parts of the particular style are present.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
pinning. These reports are sent to IE, CAD and Merchandising department for
revised consumption calculation.
• CAD- It provides the quality department with pattern pieces and the marker
plan for quality control purposes.
QUALITY
No. of shifts 1
No. of Checkers 45
No. of Quality Checker 20
No. of Quality assurance 7
Documentation AQL report(in-line, end-line, final and dupro)
Fabric Inspection Report
Size set approval report
Storage Cupboards (AQL samples)
Compliance norms Metal free zone
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
7. FINISHING/PACKAGING
7.1 PROCESS FLOW
RECEIVE GARMENT
STICKERING
PRESSING
FIINAL CHECKING
TAGGING
FOLDING
PRIMARY PACKAGING
SECONDARY PACKAGING
TERTIARY PACKAGING
FINAL INSPECTION
REPACKING
TO DISPATCH
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
The garments from the end-line after counting are bought for stickering. In the
stickering process all the tickets on all the garment parts are removed and only a
single ticket is left at the centre neck/waist band label of the garment. After
stickering the garments are sent for pressing. Steam press are used for pressing.
During pressing the pressers ensure that the size of each garment parts are
within tolerance for this purpose they are provided with hard paper scales having
size markings for different parts of different sizes by quality department. The
pressed garments are counted and stored. Then these garments are sent for
100% final checking where all possible defects are checked. The faulty garments
are divided into SPOTTING, ALTER, MENDING and REJECTION. Rejections are
sent to the rejection room and recorded. Alters are sent back to the lines from
where they have been produced for alterations required. Mending of defects such
as small holes, torn yarns and contamination removal are done. Minor spotting is
done by the final checking itself by using petrol guns. In case of major spots it is
sent to the spotting rooms. Spotting room is equipped with two specialise spotting
machines that can be used to remove various spots by the use of various
chemicals. Then these garments are sent back for pressing. After final checking
Tagging is done wherein different tags such as barcode tags, buyer tags and
price tags are attached with the help of plastic lock tag pins. Folding is done as
per buyer approval. An approved folded sample is hung in the folding section.
After folding garments, they are packed using primary packing materials such as
poly-bags, hanger and packing box. After primary packaging the packed piece
are sent to packing section by passing them through a metal detector to avoid
metal contamination. In the packaging section secondary and tertiary packaging
such as blisters and cartoon packaging is done. As per buyer requirements after
80-100% packaging final inspection is performed on the packed lot. The final
inspection is performed by a third party approved by the buyer. The inspection is
performed on the AQL level decided by the buyer. The inspection is of destructive
nature where the whole sample size is completely checked for any possible
defects. Based on this inspection the shipment is approved. The inspected
garments are repacked and sent to dispatch. Reports such as daily rejection,
finishing and packaging reports are maintained.
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QUALITY
PROD.
MAINTAINANCE
MERCHANDI SING
FINISHING/
PACKAGING
DISPATCH PPC
SEWING
• PPC- PPC keeps track of the pace of work so that the FI and shipment date
are met.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
8. MAINTENANCE
8.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES
The maintenance department looks after all the machines in the garment
division. The department is mainly responsible for:
o Machine maintenance,
Preventive maintenance, and
Break down maintenance.
The maintenance department follows various procedures to ensure that the
machines are in working condition and do not breakdown regularly. The
department is divided into two parts:
o Needle and spare parts department and
o Maintenance and repairs department
The needle and spare parts department is responsible for storage and issue
of needles and machine spare parts. Department follows a ZERO NEEDLE
POLICY. In this policy it is required to find all the parts of a broken needle
before replacing it. The policy has been implemented as per buyer
requirements. In case a needle breaks, the operator reports to line supervisor
who in turn reports to the maintenance. A mechanic is issued a set of needles
for replacement purposes along with a reporting chart for each needle box.
Whenever a needle is replaced all the parts of the broken needle are pasted
on the chart along with signature of the supervisor. Only when the mechanic
returns completely filled report with all the broken needle parts of the replaced
needles is he issued a new box of needles. In case the needle parts are not
retrieved as per rule the supervisor and the mechanic must check within two
meter diameter for 15 minutes and also check all the garments within this
range by a magnetic bar. If the parts are still not found then the contaminated
garment of this range are passed through large metal detector. If any garment
is found with needle contamination it is separated and then the quality
department checks the pieces by hand metal detector and keeps the record
and these garments are rejected.
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NEEDLE
BREAKAGE
REPORT TO
MAINTENENCE
SEARCH FOR
ALL APRTS OF
THE NEEDLE
SEARCH WITH
DEPOSIT MAGNETIC
BAR
CHECK WITH
RECORD METAL HAND
DETECTOR
SEPARATE
DEPOSIT CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS
USE LARGE
RECORD METAL
DETECTOR
SEPARATE
DPOSIT CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS
REJECT
RECORD CONTAMINATED
GARMENTS
NEEDLE
REPLACE
REPLACED
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Preventive maintenance procedures are followed to ensure that the machines are
in proper working condition and do not breakdown. To meet this purpose a
preventive maintenance checklist is maintained at every workstation. Weekly
checks are performed for various machine parameters to check the condition of
the machine.
QUALITY
CUTTING IE
MAINTENANCE
FINISHING
& SEWING
PACKAGING
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
• IE- Before the line setup IE sends the machine layout required. As per the
garment the maintenance department prepares the machines with appropriate
needle and attachments.
MAINTENANCE
No. of shifts 1
No. of Engineers 3
No. of Mechanics 10
No. of Fitters 5
Documentation Zero needle policy report
Machine maintenance record
Storage Cupboards -4
Area 1188 sft (66’ X 18’)
Tubelights 30 (15 X 2)
Fans 10
Machinery Lathe machine
Drilling machine
Buffing machine
Solding machine
Grinding machine
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9.1.1 Consumption:
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
LENGTH OF MARKER / NUMBER OF GARMENTS (IN MARKER) = CONSUMPTION PER GARMENT (WOVEN)
In the pre-fabric booking phase the details of the fabric are provided by the
merchandiser as given by the buyer. Consumption per garment is calculated and
fabric is booked by the HO merchandisers based on this consumption. In the post-
fabric receiving phase the actual fabric details like Diameter, GSM, Length, Width,
etc of are sent to the IE for revised consumption calculation. Revised markers are
also prepared by the CAD based on the fabric received and sent t the IE. The IE
crosschecks the consumption requirements and informs the merchandiser in case of
any irregularities. In consumption calculations the fabric width wastage for knits is
taken to be 2” and for tubular 1”. The wastage added to the consumption per
garment for knits is 5% and for woven 3%.
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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010
9.1.2 Line setup – During the pre-production phase IE performs various functions
such as preparation of OB (operation bulletin), preparation of SAM’s, determining
type and the number of machines required.
9.1.2.1 Machine layout – Before starting with the production IE determines the
layout of the machines on the sewing line. This is based upon the sequence of
operations required. The number of machines required is calculated on the basis of
pitch time calculations. The pitch time is calculated as the sum of SAMs of the
garment divided by the number of operations and then a comparison is done
between the pitch time and the Pitch time = SAM (garment) / number of operations
SAM of each operation. If the
Number of machines required = SAM /Pitch time
SAM value is more than the pitch
time then the machine required would be equal to the division of the SAM by the
pitch time, else a single machine is required for the operation. The machine layout
chart consists of the operation names, machine names with attachments, SAM
(expected) and target per hour. The estimated SAMs are provided using PDTS (pre
determined time standards). The SAM of the garment is calculated as the sum of
SAM of all the operations. And the production target for each operation per hour and
per day is calculated based on the expected efficiency.
9.1.2.2 Machine set-up – After the machine layout has been prepared the IE
department in co-ordination with the maintenance department gets the machines set
in the lines as per layout. The IE in co-ordination with other departments ensures
that the machines are properly set for production with right attachments and settings.
9.1.2.3 Line balancing – After the line has been set, IE looks after the production of
the line to check whether any operation requires more or less machines. This is done
for the purpose of optimization of production and efficiency to appropriate levels. IE
also performs time study to determine the actual SAM to compare with the estimated
value for this purpose.
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9.1.3 Productivity and efficiency management – IE looks after the production and
efficiency of the lines to help the production meet its target and deadlines. Various
tools used for this purpose are time study and method study.
9.1.3.1 Time study – It is an analysis tool for measuring the actual time for each
operation. The time study is done using a stopwatch and recording sheet. It is
normally performed a week after line start-up. The time study is performed by ten
continuous cycle time recording for each operation. Average for these values is
calculated and a rating is given to the operators work. Based on the rating and the
average time average time is calculated. Allowance factors are allotted depending
upon the gender of the operator and the machine used in the operation. These
allowances in combination with their basic time are used for deriving the SAM value.
The time study is used for making pitch diagrams to identify bottlenecks in a line. A
pitch diagram is a graphical representation of production of each workstation. The
lowest point on this graph is taken to be estimated production of the line. This lowest
value is also identified as the bottleneck operation. For which various steps are taken
to improve its production. These steps include method study of the operation,
physical check of the machine, sewing operation parameters, nature of fabric and
material handling and motivation of operator to upgrade.
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9.1.4 Costing – The IE department is responsible for costing at three stages. Query
stage, pre-production stage and final costing.
9.1.4.1 Query stage costing – Query is a stage at which a buyer approaches the
company for the purpose of acquiring the approximate details of the costing for a
style of which the buyer proposes production. At this stage the IE provides the rough
estimate on the manufacturing cost of the garment to the buyer on past data and
experiences. This costing is marked up for the purpose of negotiation.
9.1.4.2 Pre-production costing – After the order confirmation the buyer decides the
rate at which it will pay the company. Using this cost as the basis costing is done so
as to ensure considerable profits. The costing at this stage mainly consists of
material cost, CMT charges (Cut Make Trim) and profit. It is necessary at this stage
to adjust the cost at lowest possible. To meet such requirements tries to keep a
control on the consumption quantity of materials. The CMT charges are calculated
department wise as per the machinery and labour invested. The CMT charges are
also affected by the purchase of new machinery for the manufacturing of the order.
These details are sent to the HO for compilation of cost for the order.
9.1.4.3 Final costing – This costing is the final costing done at the completion of
order to calculate the cost incurred for order completion. Using reconciliation
statements of various departments such as stores, cutting, sewing, finishing and
packaging final costing is done to compare the cost with the one given at pre-
production phase. Any kind of revision in consumption of materials and work
investment that are done in-house is highlighted. If the revision is incurred due to the
demands of the buyer then the cost for that is added to the buyer’s cost. The final
objective of this costing is to determine profit or loss that factory incur.
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9.1.5 Capacity planning – The IE does capacity planning during the pre-production
phase in which it prepares a plan for production on monthly basis depending upon
the capacity available in the factory. Capacity booking consists of balancing work
between different work departments such as cutting, sewing, embroidery, printing,
finishing and packaging depending upon their available capacities.
9.1.5.2 Learning curve – The learning curve is used for estimating the production
timeline and efficiency at which a style will be produced. There are four types of
learning curves:
Fast
Rapid
Normal
Slow
The type of learning curve used to estimate the production pick-up is determined by
the styling of the garment. Easier the style steeper (faster) the learning curves.
9.1.5.4 Build up plan – A build up plan is a plan made up of daily production targets
in advance for an order based upon Efficiency, Learning curve, Capacity and other
production variables. It is represented in a timeline format with daily as well as
cumulative production target. It is prepared separately for each department.
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QUALITY
SEWING
CAD
IE
FABRIC PROD.
STORE MERCHANDISING
MAINTAINENCE PPC
• Quality - The IE sends the machine layout to the Quality department for the
purpose of identifying in-line check points in accordance to buyer comments.
• PPC – The IE in coordination with the PPC department does the planning for
production. Capacity planning, booking and production timeline is done in
coordination with the PPC. Time and action calendar prepared by PPC is
used as a reference for planning production. The IE dept also makes the
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• CAD – The CAD department makes the marker plan on the basis of which the
IE calculates the consumption.
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The production merchandiser functions at the factory level and is different from the
merchandisers who coordinate with buyers from head quarters. The production
merchandisers do tracking and follow –up of orders in order to ensure that the work
is completed in time and meets all buyer requirements. The merchandisers are
responsible for each and every activity during order completion. The merchandiser
is required to get approval from the buyer regarding and aspect of the order ranging
from sampling, sewing to packaging. Merchandiser plays a centre role in
coordinating, instructing departments and decision making regarding any order
related issue.
In the pre-production phase, production merchandiser is sent a tech pack from the
buyer on lines of which sampling is to be done. The merchandiser along with the
sampling look after meeting buyer needs and keep record of them. Consumption
calculation and details for compiling costing and booking are done and procured
from the IE department. The details of the consumption and costing are sent to head
quarters. A Production information sheet is sent from the Head quarters that contains
all production related information necessary for production execution .This PI sheet
is sent to cutting, stores, embroidery/printing, sewing and finishing for complying with
the requirements.
After the PP sample from buyer is approved the merchandiser sends the buyer
comments received to all departments for reference. In the production phase the
merchandiser looks after major issues that arise in production and follow up the
details with H.O merchandisers regarding progress in work. As per buyer
requirement the merchandiser also provides each department with department
specific instructions provided by the buyer, for e.g. folding technique, Packaging
method and ratios. Merchandiser remains involved with the follow up and decision
making of the order from beginning till the shipment.
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In the post production phase the merchandiser tracks and follows up the final
inspection. It is also necessary to ensure that the order is ready on time and shipped
as required. At this stage it is required to compile a report of the actual cost incurred
for profit /loss analysis purpose. The merchandiser in coordination with the IE
compiles the data relating to final costs incurred. This costing is based upon RECO
statements of departments and cost incurred by each. This costing is sent to the H.O
for accounting Profit and loss.
QUALITY
SAMPLING PPC
PRINTING CAD
EMBROIDERY
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• CAD – The merchandiser provides tech-pack details, size ratios and grading
details for preparing the patterns and marker plan.
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OCM
PLANNING
TNA
CONTROLLING
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12. EMBROIDERY
12.1 PROCESS FLOW
ARTWORK
FROM BUYER
SAMPLING
APPROVAL
MASS
PRODUCTION
TESTING
EMBROIDERY
THREAD CUTTER
QUALTY INSPECTION
TO CUTTING
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The embroidery department has a separate sampling process. The artwork from the
buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The department works on that artwork
on the CAD software Wilcom ES65. The artwork is redeveloped and samples are
made and sent for approval. During the garment sampling phase the embroidery on
the samples is done as per buyer approved artwork. During production the pieces
requiring embroidery are received in bundle form. Embroidery is done on some of
the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved sample. After
checking embroidery on the bundle pieces is done sequentially and sent for thread
cutting. The protruding threads and fusing or lining fabrics are cut and finished.
These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting
department. During embroidery the centre point of the artwork is marked on a table
using pins. A hoop is placed around the pins and another hoop on which the fabric
piece is fastened and pressed over it. After the hoop is secured tightly they are
placed under the machine heads with reference to the needle mark on the fabric.
The design developed in the CAD is fed in the machine and embroidery is done as
required. There are four 18-head embroidery machines (Barudan) which have
capacity of 9-threads per head. Sequins and bead attachments are also available if
required. A 6-head embroidery machine is also available. A sixteen thread machine
for complex embroideries is also available. Tear-able nonwoven linings are used as
backing in embroideries. There are two types of tear-able nonwoven linings in use:
(1 X 1) and (2 X 2). (1 X 1) is used for achieving high quality finish and is costly. For
appliqué works a laser engraving and cutting machine is used. The appliqué fabric is
cut using this machine and attached to the fabric piece using embroidery and
pasting. A needle detector used for detecting needles in case of needle breakage as
per Zero Needle Policy. The consumptions for thread used here are provided by this
department itself.
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PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING
EMBROIDERY
CUTTING QUALITY
• CUTTING – The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which
embroidery is required and receives the output.
EMBROIDERY
No. of shifts 1
No. of Workers 30
Storage Racks 10
Area 1584 sft (88’ X 18’)
Tubelights 30 (15 X 2)
Machinery Barudan (18 head 9 thread)-4
Barudan (6 head 9 thread)-1
Amaya XT (16 colour)
Golden laser cutting machine-1
Hashima metal detector
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13. PRINTING
13.1 PROCESS FLOW
ARTWORK
FROM BUYER
PREPARATION
OF SCREEN
SAMPLING
APPROVAL
MASS
PRODUCTION
PIECES FROM
CUTTING
PREPARATION
OF COLOUR
PRINTING
CURING
QUALTY
INSPECTION
TO CUTTING
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three screen printing machines of which two are automatic and one is manual. Up-to
10 colour printing can be done on the manual while in the automatic 10-16 colours
can be applied. The machine rotates the garment piece under the screen heads. The
screens descend on the pieces and automatic squeezing system applies colours.
The number of strokes and number of squeeze depend upon the shade required.
After printing the pieces are cured on a continuous curing machine. Then the pieces
are checked, re-bundled and sent back to cutting.
PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISING
PRINTING
CUTTING QUALITY
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PRINTING
No. of shifts 2
No. of Workers 26
Storage Racks 8
Area 1870 sft (85’ X 22’)
Tubelights 28 (14 x 2)
Machinery Cheran fusing machines-2
Transwift mini curing machine
M&R Chameleon manual printing machine
(10 colour)
M&R challenger II –(10 colour) automatic
M&R challenger II –(16 colour) automatic
M&R sprint 2000 – automatic continuous
curing machine
HIX fusing machine
Nu-Arc tri-light exposing machine
M&R Digikote’T’ automatic coating
machine
1 chamber heater.
Eye washer
Washing machine
Weighing machine
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The IT department at Alok garment division, Saily looks after the IT infrastructure
and its maintenance. There are various types of server like, E-mail, application, DNS
(Domain Name Server) and anti-virus. ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) such as
SAP (System Application of Production Planning) and Production Fast-react are
used. Switches are used and bus topology is used for wired and star topology for
wireless networks. Virtual LAN system is used for network configuration. The SAP
system is centrally controlled from H.O. There are four main modules of SAP such
as
Store departments use MM modules for inward and outward. The production
departments such as cutting, sewing and finishing use the PP module for recording
input and output. SD module is used by marketing and sales departments. The FI
module is used by finance, accounts and administration department. Various other
reports are maintained manually using MS-excel other than ERP for backup
purpose. Major reports maintained are:
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14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report) – A daily factory report is compiled at the end of
the day. The report contains detailed production statistics of the work departments
cutting, sewing, finishing, embroidery, printing and packaging. The production is
compiled buyer/style-wise and line-wise. This report overall view of production of the
factory.
14.1.4 End-line report (hourly) – End-line report is maintained for each line on an
hourly basis for end-line production.
14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR) – The daily rejection report is maintained for both
sewing and finishing.
14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units) – The DHU
percentage is measured as the amount of defects per hundred units produced. The
DHU is important for the purpose of quality control and to identify major/frequently
occurring departments. The defects are classified and recorded respectively and
line-wise.
14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) – The report
is compiled for the purpose of assessments and learning curve developments.
14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) – This report is
maintained date-wise and line-wise. It contains the efficiency and the production
achieved in a particular style. At the end of the style production a summary is
compiled to know the average efficiency at which the style was produced. This
bakchod report helps in future projections for capacity booking and planning
purpose.
14.1.9 Incentive reports – This is generated on daily basis for calculating and
recording incentives line-wise.
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PROJECT OBJECTIVE:
METHODOLOGY:
Development of thread
cosumption calculator
Implementation
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INTRODUCTION
If different types of threads are used in the garment then it’s necessary to
differentiate the consumption per thread. This differentiation is done at the seam
calculation stages when the consumption per seam is calculated by the help of
consumption percentages for needle bobbin and loopers per machine type. If in case
spreader is used in case of flatlocks then the consumption for looper and spreader is
evenly distributed.
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Sl. Factor
Machine name %needle
No (per cm) %looper/bbn
*The factors table for machines and the various distribution factors have been developed by the industry personnel (IE dept)
Alok industries Ltd(Garments division Saily,Silvassa).
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PROCESS FLOW
calculating consumption
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I.E. dept. receives the garments from the merchandiser after the approval for fit/size
set is received. The calculation for consumption (fabric, thread) and S.A.M value is
done following the receival.
The first step in thread consumption calculation is the formulation of the operation
bulletin(OB).This helps in identification of various seams used in the garment.
The seams identified in the previous step are measured using measuring tape. The
measured seams are recorded accordingly. The measurements are carried out in
centimetres (cms). This iis usually done to ease the work of calculation as the
factors are available for per cm.
An excel sheet
format is developed
for the purpose of
calculation.
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Data relating to the seam lengths and the factor corresponding to the type of seam
used is entered into the excel sheet format developed. The factors are referenced
from the standard factors readily developed by the IE dept.
The distribution of consumption as per the threads required in each seam is done by
typing the consumption formulas in the corresponding thread columns.
8. Calculating consumption
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Seam-Length measurement
The seam length is an important factor influencing thread consumption. Seam length
also determines how much waste and extra per seam of thread will be consumed.
Preferably extra length is taken so as to consider the wastage during making the
seam.
Wastage percentage
The wastage percentage is an important factor that helps determining the wastage
required to cover the waste during production. Generally the wastage is taken to be
30 % of total consumptions.
The distribution of thread per seam (i.e. needle /bobbin/spreader), is a necessity for
the purpose of determining and quantifying the amount of thread required. Any
variation in the distribution can lead to less/more consumption of a particular thread.
The consumption also depends on the type of seam as different seams have
different factors and thus the consumption variates. Any error in identification can
lead to wrong consumption calculations. Consumptions also depend on the fabric
type and garment construction technique as a light weight and difficult constructed
seam have more consumptions as there are chances of error occurrences in them.
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The following are the commonly observed problems during thread consumption
calculations(manual) presently followed:
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The calculator shall provide a low cost and act as a feasible solution with the various
objectives on which it has been developed.
The calculator developed report has been developed on line with report compiled by
the merchandiser for the order quantity that is forwarded to the thread store for the
purpose of thread booking
The report generated shall also reduce the work of the merchandiser to compile and
calculate consumption of the whole order quantity based on consumptions per
garment determined by the IE dept.
The merchandiser would only be required to check the figures provided by the IE
dept and continue by forwarding the report to the thread store.
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IMPLEMENTATION
TESTING
DEVELOPMENT
DESIGNING
CONCEPTUALIZING
5.1 CONCEPTUALIZING
In this process the concept of the calculator was developed. The inputs and and
outputs required for the calculator have been designed in a way to reduce errors in
calculation to maximum extent.
The inputs required in the calculator are limited to that of seam length,operation
bulletin and number of seams. Combo-box list provide a more easy way of machine
selection for particular seam type.The selection of threads for needle ,bobbin and
spreader have also been provided with combo lists to enable easy, fast and
accurate selections.
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5.2 DESIGNING
The calculator has been developed by keeping in mind a user friendly interface that
can easily be understood and used by anyone.
The calculator has been designed in worksheets using various linking , formula and
programming features of excel.
Seventy five (75) rows have been provided to cover long operation bulletins.
Option for saving the consumption calculation file in user determined named location
has been provided.
Reset field option has been provided for instantly clearing field entries.
A generate report option has also been provided for the purpose of automatic report
generation.
Combo box controls have been used in columns of machine type ,needle,bobbin and
spreader thread description, wastage selection for the purpose of easy and quick
selection.
Linking between factor sheet and the main interface has been done using formulas
such that automatic retrieval of factors is possible thus reducing the need for
referencing the thread consumption ratio table and mismatch in values.
The report has been designed on lines of the real life report made by a merchandiser
for calculating consumption per thread for an order quantity for booking purposes.
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5.3 DEVELOPMENT
The development of the calculator started with the data collection of the
factors/thread consumption ratios for different machines. This data was provided by
the IE dept of Alok industries Garments division.
A separate worksheet named “factors“ had been developed for the purpose of
tabulating the data of thread consumption ratios.
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The report sheet consists of the report format which has links with that of
the calculator so as calculate the consumption for not only per garment
for various thread types but also for the order quantity of the particular
style. This report helps in shortening the process required for compiling
consumption for a order quantity.
The calculator has been made using formulas, referencing and programming tools.
Linking has using sheet reference technique has been used for the purpose of value
retrieval.
5.3.4.1 Formulas
The formulas used range from mathematical, logical, lookup and reference and
information.
SUM()[mathematical]
IF()[logical]
OR()[logical]
VLOOKUP(Lookup and referencing)
ISERROR(information)
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5.3.4.2 Referencing
Cell referencing has been used in order to reference values from one cell to another
for purpose of creating the report, calculations and retrieve values in controls.
Visual basic controls like command button and combo box list have been used for
the purpose of proving various functional features.
Combo boxes have been used in columns like m/c selection, spreader used, needle,
bobbin and spreader thread descriptions. These boxes help in easy and quick
selection.
Command buttons have been used to provide functionality such as saving, resetting
fields and generating the report.
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6. Testing
The calculator had been tested for its functionality by calculating the consumptions
for previous, running and forthcoming styles in order to confirm and compare the
results with the already calculated values so as to determine its reliability and error
free functioning.
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CONCLUSION /DELIVERABLES
The thread consumption calculator is an easy to use and efficient tool to calculate
thread consumptions. The calculator provides a hassle free interface for selection. A
standard format helps in data entry purposes. A human error in data entry reduces to
only the seam lengths, number of seams and the seam type.
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LEARNING EXPERIENCE
The internship in many ways provided a platform for new experiences in terms of
industrial exposure as well as personal experiences in terms of tour and travel to
new places and accommodating ourselves into the busy schedules which otherwise
are not experienced in college. Industrial exposure not only drove our curiosity to
know more than our limited textual knowledge but even compelled to get ourselves
involved in the process as a whole. The project undertaken by us exposed us to the
actual working feel and conditions and helped us to tune according to the industry
needs. We first were allowed to observe as much and then our doubts were cleared.
Various communication techniques and industrial practices which are important for
professional behaviour were learnt through our interactions with the industry officials.
Our Interactions with our mentor Mr. Samuel Mupavvarapu were motivational and a
inspirational interaction that fuelled our curiosity for internship with full confidence
and dedication. The managers to whom we were entrusted to meet to learn about
the respective dept.’s were under huge pressures of work but never did it happen
that anyone would deny us any answer to the query which we would ask them at
any point of time, their such generous nature helped us getting the information we
required time to time.
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