APPAREL INTERNSHIP

@
Orient Craft Limited
Knits Division
Gurgaon

Presented by:
Baabul Singh
Nitish Kohli
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
 We take this opportunity to express our gratitude
to the people who have been instrumental in the
successful completion of this internship

 We would like to thank

 Mr. L. P. Luthra – Production Manager
 Mr. Jahangir Pathan – General Manager
 Mr. Saikat Pramanik (Faculty Mentor)
and all our faculty members for guiding us through
this internship
CONTENTS
 Company Profile  Dry Cleaning
 Introduction  Finishing & Packaging
 Financials  Logistics
 Infrastructure  PPC
 IE
 Organization Chart
 Quality Assurance
 Process Flow of the company
 Machine Details
 Department Study  Floor Plan
 Merchandising
 Project
 Sampling
 Implementation of Kaizen
 Fabric and Trims Store
 Improvement of Sewing
 Spreading & Cutting Floor Productivity
 CAD
 Learning Outcome
 Sewing
 Washing
COMPANY PROFILE
INTRODUCTION
 Set up in 1978, Orient Craft Limited has
consistently been one of India's top garment
manufacture and export organizations
 The company has three shareholders
 Mr. Sudhir Dhingra (Chairman and Managing
Director),
 Mr. K.K. Kohli and
 Mr. Anoop Thatai
PRODUCT MIX
 Blouses
 Skirts
 Pants
 Shorts
 Dresses
 Jackets
 Outerwear
 Men’s shirts
 Kids wear
 Knitted shirts/t-shirts
 Ropers
CLIENTS
 Armani Exchange 
 Marc Jacob
 Dillard’s 
 Ann Taylor
 Tommy Hilfiger
 Banana Republic
 GAP
 Next Retail Ltd.

 Old Navy 

 Ralph Lauren
 Marks & Spencer
 Macy’s
FINANCIALS
 Turnover
 USD 105 million for 2002-2003
 USD 118 million for 2004-2005
 USD 165 million for 2005-2006 (Rs. 742 crores)

 Other Financials
 Last year’s profit was $8 million (40 crores), despite more competitive pricing.
 Breakdown of Sales Revenue

Est. USD 2010 % of Sales Per Garment % Retail Price

Material Cost 82.5 – 99 million 50 – 60 $ 5.00 – 6.00 0.08 – 0.12

Labor 19.8 – 24.8 12 – 15 $ 1.20 – 1.50 0.02 – 0.03

million
Overhead 19.8 – 24.8 12 – 15 $ 1.20 – 1.50 0.02 – 0.03
million
Profit (Target) 16.5 million 10 $ 1.00 0.02
INFRASTRUCTURE
 Company has more than 21 production facilities,
of which four are in Delhi, six in Gurgaon, and
one large plant is located in Noida.
 The knitwear division is over 380,000 sq. ft. and
employs 5000 people.
 In 2003 Orient established a manufacturing
complex of 340,000 sq. ft. at the cost of over $10
million USD, which was at the time the “single
largest multi-product manufacturing plant in the
whole of India.”
ORGANIZATION CHART
Cutting

Production

Production Finishing
Manager

Packing

Production
Compliance

Quality Quality
Assurance Auditors
Joint Managing Manager
Director &
CEO Personnel

Administration

Welfare

Maintenance
General
Manager
Security

House Keeping

Social
Compliance

Electric
PROCESS FLOW

Pre- Size Set

Interaction Placing of Prototype
Production Sample
with Buyer Order Approval
Meeting Approval

Fabric
Marker Raw Material Acquisition of
Spreading Washing /
Making Inspection Raw Material
Relaxation

Embroidery / Garment
Cutting Sewing Printing (if Washing (if Finishing
any) required)

Shipment Packing
DEPARTMENT STUDY
MERCHANDISING
 The merchandisers are segregated according to the brands

 They form the relation and negotiation between the company and
its buyers and suppliers

 Merchandisers are divided according to the different brands

 Merchandisers follow up the style and the order until they have
been received by the buyers
PROCESS FLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT
Calculation of cost
Receives the Send it to the Confirming PO
and fabric
tech pack sampling dept. onsumption
cco order

Getting FPT to Getting the fit

fabric and
proval f or
appr nform t he
conf sampl
ple
trims ordered
size set standards approved

Preparing the Getting TOP

Pilot run for 50
cutting ticket forro samples Follow up
cutting dept. 100 pieces
approved
ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER
 The following activities are done by a merchandiser:

Design sampling

Fabric sourcing

Accessories sourcing

Collecting test report

Quality check

Report maintenance

shipping
SAMPLING
 The sampling department is just a small portion
of the production floor.
 It only has sewing machines.

 The other activities such as cutting and finishing

are done in their respective departments.
 High priority is given to sampling.
DEPARTMENTAL STRUCTURE

Sampling
Manager

Supervisor

Tailors

Embroiders
WORKING PROCEDURE
 Getting clarifications about style details from
merchandiser.
 Getting PPA from Buyer through Merchandiser.
 Checking pattern’s workability.
 Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s
approval.
 Informing quality related problems, encountered during
preparing samples, to QC.
 Revising the specification of the buyer.
 Minimizing operations and consumption.
 Innovation of new methods.
TYPES OF SAMPLES PREPARED

SAMPLES PREPARED

SIZE
PROTO FIT SALES PP SET
SAMPLE SAMPLE SAMPLE SAMPLE
SAMPLE
FABRIC & TRIMS STORE
 All the raw materials are ordered and purchased
by the department.
 Issuing of raw materials to various department is
done by the stores department.
 Buyer either specifies the vendors or the
company sources it from vendors like :
 Mafat Lal
 Nahar textiles
WORK FLOW OF THE DEPARTMENT

REQUISITION OF
MATERIAL

ACQUISITION OF
MATERIAL

ISSUING OF
MATERIALS TO
DIFF ERENT
DEPARTMENTS
HIERARCHY OF THE DEPARTMENT

STORE
MANAGER

FABRIC TRIM STORE

STORE
INCHARGE
INCHARGE

FABRIC TRIM
SUPERVISOR SUPERVISOR

HELPER HELPER
SPREADING & CUTTING
 Spreading & Cutting is considered to be the most
important part of the garment manufacturing
unit.
 It was located on the second floor of the building.

 It was divided into 3 sections:

 Spreading & Cutting 1 – Ground Floor
 Spreading & Cutting 2 – First Floor
 Bundling & Ticketing
SPREADING & CUTTING
 All the labor was hired on contract basis.
 There were two contractors, each handling one of
the Spreading & Cutting sections.
 The no. plies depended on the GSM of the fabric.

 They never calculated the no. of plies beforehand,

they only measured the height of the lay.
 Lay height – 2 to 2.5 inches
 Tolerance in cutting varied from style to style
and also buyer to buyer.
PROCESS FLOW
• CPL is followed
• Fabric is cut in lengths = Lay length + 5%
• Since it is tubular, the fabric is cut open

• The fabric is left overnight for relaxation

• If it needs to be washed, then sent for washing

• The fabric is then spread manually by 6 – 8 workers

• If the fabric has been washed, then it is left for an hour for relaxation after
spreading
• Otherwise, lay is covered with paper and left for 24 hours for relaxation

• Finally, cutting is done using straight knife

• For small parts, usually of that of kids’ wear, band knife is used.
BUNDLING & TICKETING
 The Bundling and Ticketing section had company
employees.
 Ticketing was done using ticketing guns.

 Bundling takes place manually, every bundle had

a tag which contains the entire description of the
garment.
CAD DEPARTMENT
 This department is divided into 2 sections:
 Pattern Making Section:
 This section is involved in making patterns for the different
garments.
 The pattern making section is in the head office of the

company.
 Most of the patterns are made manually and then plotted

and graded.
 Marker Making Section:
 This section receives patterns from the pattern making
section and then the marker is prepared.
 The marker efficiency varies from 70% to 85%.
DEPARTMENTAL STRUCTURE

GRADING
MASTERS
CAD MASTER
MARKER
MAKERS
HEAD
PATTERN
MASTER
HELPER
MANUAL
PATTERN
MASTER
PLOTTER
SEWING DEPARTMENT
 The unit had 2 sewing floors
 Ground Floor – 6 sewing lines
 First Floor – 7 sewing lines
 Each line consisted of 25 to 30 machines,
depending on the style.
 Each line was set according to the line plan of the
running plan
 The average capacity of each line was 800 pieces
per day
PROCESS FLOW

CUT PARTS PREPARATION OF INLINE

RECEIVED SMALLER PARTS INSPECTION

ASSEMBLY OF
INSPECTION
PARTS
SEWING DEPARTMENT
 All the labor were employed through a contractor
on piece rate basis

 The production manager only supervised the

contractor’s working
WASHING DEPARTMENT
 There were 5 kinds of washing being done:
 Fabric Wash
 Garment Wash
 Softener Wash
 Silicon Softener Wash
 Bio Wash
WASHING
 Fabric Wash:
 Only cold water washing is done
 The fabric is then tumble dried.
 Garment Wash:
 This is usually done using detergent.
 It is then followed by two cold water washes and
tumble drying.
 Softener Wash:
 Cationic softener is used in this kind of washing.
 Softener is introduced after normal washing.
WASHING
 Silicon Softener Wash:
 If softener wash fails to give the desired feel, silicon
softener is used.
 Silicon softener is used only for colored garments.
 Bio-Wash:
 Biopolis enzyme is used for this kind of washing.
 It is used to remove pilling from the fabric surface.
DRY CLEANING
 The dry cleaning department was a very small
part of the company with only 3 machines.
 The basic purpose for which dry cleaning was
being used in the company was for the removal of
oil stains.
 Though sometimes, dry cleaning was also done
on buyer’s requirements.
FINISHING & PACKAGING
 It is the last stage of making a garment

 Buyer specifications are strictly followed

 This department is located on both the sewing

floors
PROCESS FLOW
BATCH
TRIMMING IS MIDDLE
RECEIVED
DONE CHECKING
FROM WASHING

PRESENTATION MEASUREMENT
IRONING
CHECKING CHECKING

PACKAGING FINAL AUDIT

FINISHING & PACKAGING
 Some of the operations performed at finishing
stage are :
 Thread cutting
 Stain Removal
 Rough Checking
 Seam Ironing
 Alterations and Stain Removal
 Final Ironing
 Final Checking
 Tagging and Packing
 Presentation Checking and Carton Packing
LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT
 The Logistics Department can also be referred to
as the Operations department.
 This department comprises of two different
departments.
 These are
 Production Planning and Control
 Industrial Engineering
PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL
The main functions of the PPC department are:
 Making a calendar of production by booking the
capacity as per order quantity.
 Keeping a track on the per day production to
check if it is meeting the targets or not.
 They make reports of every day production of
each line.
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
 It is concerned with design, improvement and
installation of integrated system of people,
material, equipment and energy.
 They do time and work study for maximum
utilization of the resources.
 Develops the line plan.

 Identifies the problem areas and corrects them.

QUALITY ASSURANCE
 The main objective of the department is to maintain the
quality of the product.
 To check that the Buyer requirements and specifications
are followed properly.
 Check points:
 Stores
 Cutting
 Bundling and Ticketing
 Sewing
 Washing
 Finishing
 Final Audit
PROCESS FLOW
QA DEPT
PPM HAPPENS
DEVELOPS SPEC IDENTIFIES THE
AND QUALITY
SHEET FOR EACH CHECK POINTS
DETAILS GIVEN
OPERATION

QUALITY QC CHECKS THE TRAINS THE

SUPERVISOR
QUALITY OPERATOR
SUPERVISE THEM

BUYERS QC
MANAGERS TAKE
GIVES THE
THE FINAL AUDIT
APPROVAL
MACHINERY DETAILS
Total
Machine Quantity
Single Needle Lock Stitch 105
Single Needle Lock Stitch (UBT) 156
Single Needle Edge Cutter 6
Single Needle Chain Stitch 6
Double Needle Lock Stitch 5
Double Needle Chain Stitch 1
Kansai 7
Smocking 5
Four Thread Over-lock 67
Six Thread Over-lock 2
Over-lock (FOR) 1
Elastic 1
Binding (Flat Lock) 39
Bottom Hem (Flat Lock) 28
Button Hole 1
Button Stitch 3
Fusing 1
Heat Transfer S/Head 4
Heat Transfer D/Head 3
Embroidery/Kali Mundi 51
Needle Detector 2
Thread Trimming 8
Saddle Stitch 1
Zigzag 4
Pico-ting 1
Rib Cutter 6
Snap Button N/S 45 1
Strapping Machine 2
Fabric Relaxation Machine 1
Straight Knife Cutting Machine 9
Band Knife Machine 2
Washing Machine 7
Hydro Extractor 4
Tumble Dryer 6
Dry-Cleaning Machine 3
Total 549
SEWING FLOOR
CUTTING FLOOR
PROJECT
IMPLEMENTATION OF KAIZEN
OBJECTIVE
 The objective of the project was to implement
kaizen on the sewing floor.
DEFINITION & CONCEPT
“KAI” = Change
“ZEN” = Good
Therefore, “KAIZEN” = Good Change
Or

KAIZEN means “continuous improvement” or

"continual improvement"
involving EVERYBODY in the organization from
the managers down to the workers (or every level
of employee)
KAIZEN VS. INNOVATION
 The gradual approach- kaizen
 The great leap approach- innovation

 Innovation is dramatic, a real attention-getter

 Kaizen, on the other hand, is often un-dramatic

and subtle, and its results are seldom
immediately visible
 Kaizen is a continuous process.

 Innovation is generally a one-shot phenomenon

GEMBA KAIZEN (COMMONSENSE LOW-
COST APPROACH TO MANAGEMENT)

Gemba = Workplace

 A process of continuously
 Going to the workplace (where
problem/abnormality is)
 Identifying the problem and it's root causes
 Reducing and
eliminating muda (waste), mura (inconsistency)
and muri (strain)
 Solving the problem or improving the situation
FIVE PRINCIPLES OF GEMBA KAIZEN
 When a problem/abnormality/opportunity occurs,
go to gemba (the workplace) first
 Check with gembutsu like machines, equipment,
tools, jigs, fixtures or rejects etc
 Take immediate or even temporary counter-
measures on the spot
 Find out the root cause and remove the root
cause of the abnormality
 Implement the solution and standardize to
prevent further trouble/recurrence
KAIZEN SYSTEM IN PRACTICE (THE
FORMAT)
 It is continuous improvement in all aspects of life

 It has total employee involvement (TEI) at its

base

 Suggestions are given to supervisor/manager and

not dropped in a suggestion box (as in
conventional suggestion scheme)

 Kaizen emphasizes on implementation

KAIZEN SYSTEM IN PRACTICE (THE
FORMAT)
 Every employee takes part and gives suggestions

 Kaizen suggestions are evaluated quickly

 Suggestions can be departmental as well as inter-

departmental

 Kaizen improves the dignity of the employees

KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP I
(PLANNING)
 The Kaizen planning phase seeks to Define,
Measure and Analyze the process that will be the
Kaizen focus. There are three levels of Kaizen
planning.
 High-level
 Mid-level
 Event-level
KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP I
(PLANNING)
 Event planning includes:
 Kaizen team member selection
 Kaizen charter approval
 Location preparation (including equipment,
materials, etc.)
 Data needs identification and preparation
STEP I OUTCOME
 Kaizen team formed comprising of 7 members
lead by the Production Manager (Mr. L. P.
Luthra) himself.
 Kaizen charter was verbally approved.

 Focus was decided to be the sewing floor

(specifically line 5 & 6 on the first floor) for the
first trial.
 All the data regarding the running style (style #
20426), machinery on lines and workforce was
collected.
KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP II
(IMPLEMENT)
 Train members of the Kaizen team on the Lean
principles that they will be applying

 Review the VSM, and perform additional

measurements and analyses, if needed

 Facilitate an ideation/brainstorming processes to

identify improvement options

 Implement improvements by “breaking apart”

the process and putting it back together without
the waste
KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP II
(IMPLEMENT)
 Prepare an action plan with a list of activities
required to complete the Kaizen process

 Verify the alignment of the selected

improvements with the future state VSM

 Identify expected measurable improvements

 Obtain participant feedback

 Report Kaizen results to Champions and

celebrate success
STEP II OUTCOME
 Members of the Kaizen team were taught about
the basic lean principles

 Line supervisors made aware of the lean

initiative

 Brainstorming conducted of probable

improvements

 Suggestions demanded from Kaizen team

members as well as the line supervisors
KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP III
(FOLLOW-UP)
 Following-up to ensure that action items are
successfully completed

 Working with Lean Champions to breakdown

obstacles

 Measuring the actual results of the Kaizen to

document and quantify benefits

 Establishing process control to ensure the ability

to consistently obtain improved performance
STEP III OUTCOME
REDUCTION OF TRANSPORTATION WASTE

Finishing Section
 ** New = New table introduced in the line

 Time Saved = 5 minutes per 50 pieces

SAVING BOBBIN REWINDING TIME
 Bobbin winding time = 35 seconds (approx.)
 Bobbin changeover time = 25 seconds (approx.)

 Total – 1 minute

 Change = Issue of two bobbins

 New bobbin winding & changeover time = 25

seconds (approx.)
KAIZEN IMPLEMENTATION – STEP IV
(EVALUATE)
 A lean enterprise is a learning organization that
recognizes Kaizen as a continuous process of
improvement through:

 Identifying improvements to the Kaizen

implementation process

 Encouraging employees to identify further

improvement opportunities

 Establishing a schedule to re-evaluate the VSM and

start a new Kaizen improvement cycle
STEP IV OUTCOME
 The workers were identified as the next possible
group of people who needed to be educated about
continuous improvement, as they can give
suggestions like no one else.

 Though we were to leave the Kaizen team, the

team members were encouraged to keep the
process alive; & they intended to.

 The Kaizen team was scheduled to meet every

Monday morning and consider various
improvement strategies, & implement them (if
any) in the following week.
IMPROVEMENT OF SEWING FLOOR
PRODUCTIVITY
{Contractor system – The greatest obstacle & the
cause of inability to quantify benefits}
OBJECTIVE
 The objective of the project was to increase the
sewing floor productivity.
 Style # 970920 was a ladies’ top with an order
quantity of 5176 pieces.

 The style comprised of about 20 operations with

the daily target being 850 pieces and estimated
average output per day as 800 pieces.

 The line was introduced with about 240 pieces on

6th June, 2011.

 However, the first output from the line came on

11th June, which is about six days after the
introduction of first input in the line.
 The line failed to give any output before that.

 As per the estimated average output per day, the

order should have been completed within a
maximum of 7 days, which is by 12th June, 2011.

 Unfortunately, even on 20th of June, 2011, the

total output of the line was only 4025 pieces,
before we finally forfeited on the line.

 The order that should have been completed

within a week failed to finish even on the 15th
day.
SCENARIO…
 Style # 85683 had an order quantity of 37550
pieces.

 The style comprised of about 24 operations with

the daily target being 800 pieces and estimated
average output per day as 750 pieces.
Daily Production (Style # 85683) Line 1

Day 1 -

Day 2 -

Day 3 -

Day 4 -

Day 5 -

Day 6 298

Day 7 464

Day 8 502

Total 1264
AT WORK…
 The workers, working on line 1 were asked to
follow the timings strictly on 16th July 2011.
 All of them were informed that their presence is
mandatory on Monday & Tuesday (18th-19th
July).
 The line had been rearranged on Sunday, which
had been previously working according to the
contractor’s demands.
 With just three changes, the output of the next
day was 706 pieces, totalling the line’s output to
1970 pieces.

 Changes –
 Punctuality
 “Presenteeism”
 Line Rearrangement
 By 18th July, out of 7598 pieces, approximately
7000 pieces were introduced in the line.

 The output was still pending because of the built-

in WIP.

 On 18th evening the line was yet again

rearranged; this time in order to reduce the WIP.

 Multiple machines were appointed at bottlenecks

and places where WIP had been stacked up.
 On 19th, the workers sat according to new line,
against their (& the contractor’s) will, of course,
as it was only meant for a day.
 The day’s output sky-rocketed to 862 pieces
(target being 800).
 Our point was well proven.

 Note: - The line returned back to its normal lack-

lustrous form the next day.
LEARNING EXPERIENCE
LEARNING OUTCOME…
 The eight weeks of training in the apparel
industry ensured a practical orientation towards
the understanding of
 the industry,
 the infrastructure,
 set up, and
 functioning of the company
 We were introduced to the concept of contractor
system & how lethal can it be for a garment
exporter
 This module geared us to undertake future
responsibilities
THANK YOU…