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JP5567565B2 - Knitwear having sleeves and body and knitting method thereof - Google Patents

Knitwear having sleeves and body and knitting method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
JP5567565B2
JP5567565B2 JP2011521873A JP2011521873A JP5567565B2 JP 5567565 B2 JP5567565 B2 JP 5567565B2 JP 2011521873 A JP2011521873 A JP 2011521873A JP 2011521873 A JP2011521873 A JP 2011521873A JP 5567565 B2 JP5567565 B2 JP 5567565B2
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knitting
sleeve
stitches
stitch
needle
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JPWO2011004694A1 (en
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学 由井
佳史 登尾
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Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd
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Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03Shape features
    • D10B2403/033Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/0333Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with tubular portions of variable diameter or distinct axial orientation

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Description

本発明は、横編機でニットウェアを編成する際、人体形状に合ったシルエットを得ることが可能なアームホールを備える袖と身頃を有するニットウェアとその編成方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a knitwear having a sleeve and a body having armholes capable of obtaining a silhouette suitable for a human body shape when knitting knitwear with a flat knitting machine, and a knitting method thereof.

横編機で無縫製のニットウェアを編成する場合、袖を有するニットウェアは、身頃と両袖の3つの筒を接合して一体化する編成が行われる。文献1では、身頃と両袖をそれぞれ裾から脇下まで筒状に編成した後、身頃と両袖を編みながら接合して1つの筒状体とし、さらに筒状に編成しながら徐々に筒状体の径を減少させ、セットインスリーブなどを有するセーターを編成する方法を開示している。筒径の減少の際には、編目の重なりで任意の位置にファッションラインを生じさせることで、ファッション性に富んだ筒状編地を得ている。   When knitting non-sewn knitwear with a flat knitting machine, knitwear having sleeves is knitted to join and integrate the body and three sleeves of both sleeves. In Reference 1, the body and both sleeves are knitted into a cylindrical shape from the hem to the armpit, and then joined together while knitting the body and both sleeves to form one cylindrical body, and then gradually knitted into a tubular shape while being knitted into a cylindrical shape. A method of knitting a sweater with reduced body diameter, set-in sleeves and the like is disclosed. When the cylinder diameter is reduced, a fashion line is generated at an arbitrary position by overlapping the stitches, thereby obtaining a fashionable tubular knitted fabric.

特開平2 −229248 号公報Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-229248

セットインスリーブを有するニットウェアのアームホールは、文献1の図1にも示されるように、脇での袖と身頃の接合後に数回の身頃の減らしを行った後は身頃の編幅は増減しないため、肩まで鉛直な形状となっている。ニットウェアを着用した場合のシルエットや着心地等を考慮すると、身頃の脇から徐々に身頃の編幅を減らしてアームホールの周長を増やすことで、編地の突っ張りなどを減らすことができる。しかしながら、それに伴い肩幅も狭くなってしまい、デザイン等によっては減らしを行う編目数や回数を考慮することが必要な場合もある。本発明は、上記特許文献1を改良したものであって、横編機を用い、人体形状に合ったシルエットを得るために、身頃を増目し、アームホールを略円弧状の形にして肩幅を減らさずに周長を増やすと共に、その際に効率のよい増目を行う編成方法とその方法により得られるニットウェアを提供することを目的とする。   As shown in FIG. 1 of Reference 1, the armhole of the knitwear having the set-in sleeve does not increase or decrease the knitting width of the body after the body is reduced several times after joining the sleeve and the body on the side. Therefore, the shape is vertical to the shoulder. Considering the silhouette and comfort when wearing knitwear, it is possible to reduce the tension of the knitted fabric by gradually decreasing the knitting width of the body from the side of the body and increasing the circumference of the armhole. However, the shoulder width becomes narrow accordingly, and it may be necessary to consider the number and number of stitches to be reduced depending on the design and the like. The present invention is an improvement of the above-mentioned Patent Document 1, and in order to obtain a silhouette that matches the shape of the human body using a flat knitting machine, the body is enlarged, the armhole is formed in a substantially arc shape, and the shoulder width is increased. An object of the present invention is to provide a knitting method for increasing the circumferential length without reducing it and at the same time increasing the efficiency efficiently, and knitwear obtained by the method.

本発明は、少なくとも前後一対の針床を有する横編機を用い、袖と身頃を有するニットウェアの編成方法において、袖の全ての編目と該編目に隣接する身頃の端部近傍の編目をそれぞれ該袖方向に移動することで身頃の編幅内に空針を設けて身頃の編幅を増やす工程と、前記空針の孔埋めを行うことで身頃を増目する工程と、袖の全ての編目を袖の減らしとして該身頃方向に移動することで袖の編目と身頃の端部近傍の編目による重ね目を設ける工程を備えることを特徴とする。 The present invention uses a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds, and in a knitwear knitting method having a sleeve and a body, all the stitches of the sleeve and stitches near the end of the body adjacent to the stitches, respectively. a step of increasing the knitting width of the body is provided with empty needle in the knitting width of the body by moving in該袖direction, a step for the increased eye body empty needle holes filled with rows Ukoto, all sleeves This is characterized in that it comprises a step of providing a double stitch by a stitch of the sleeve and a stitch in the vicinity of the end of the body by moving the stitch in the body direction as a sleeve reduction .

また本発明では、前記空針の孔埋めは、前記袖の減らしの際に袖の編目で行うことを特徴とする。
In the present invention, the empty needles of the hole filling is characterized by performing in sleeves knitting eyes when reducing the sleeves.

さらに本発明のニットウェアは、横編機を用い、袖と身頃の接合によりアームホールが形成される袖と身頃を有するニットウェアにおいて、アームホールでは、袖の全ての編目と該編目に隣接する身頃の端部近傍の編目が、それぞれ該袖方向に移動して身頃の編幅内に空針を設けて身頃の編幅を増やし、該空針の孔埋めにより身頃の増目をし、身頃と袖の接合として該身頃方向に移動することで袖を減らす編目が重ね目となることを特徴とする。 Furthermore, the knitwear of the present invention is a knitwear having a sleeve and a body in which an armhole is formed by joining the sleeve and the body using a flat knitting machine. In the armhole, all the stitches of the sleeve and the body adjacent to the stitches The stitches near the ends move in the direction of the sleeves to provide empty needles within the knitting width of the body to increase the knitting width of the body, and the body of the body is increased by filling the empty needles, The stitches that reduce the sleeves by moving in the body direction as the joints of the body become double stitches.

また本発明のニットウェアでは、前記袖を減らす編目は、前記空針の孔埋めに充当し、増目された編成コース上で身頃の編目と袖の編目が交差することを特徴とする。   In the knitwear of the present invention, the stitches for reducing the sleeves are used for filling the empty needles, and the stitches of the body and the sleeves of the sleeves intersect on the increased knitting course.

本発明では、アームホールの上部側でコース方向に増目することで、アームホールの周長が増えると共に、脇近傍の減らし部と合せて略円弧状のアームホールとなり、肩幅を減らすことなく人体形状に合った形のシルエットが形成できる。   In the present invention, the circumference of the armhole is increased in the course direction on the upper side of the armhole, and the circumference of the armhole is increased, and it becomes a substantially arc-shaped armhole together with the reduction portion in the vicinity of the side. A silhouette of a round shape can be formed.

また本発明では、増目の際の孔埋めを、袖の編目と身頃の端部近傍の編目による重ね目を充当することで、孔埋めの為の新たな編目の形成工程が不要となり、編成効率の良い増目の編成方法となる。   Further, in the present invention, by filling the hole at the time of increasing the stitches with the stitches of the sleeve and the stitches near the end of the body, a new stitch forming process for filling the hole becomes unnecessary, and knitting It becomes an efficient knitting method.

本発明により得られるニットウェアは、アームホールでコース方向に増目することでアームホールを略円弧状の形状として周長を増やし、肩幅も広げることが可能で、人体形状に合った形のシルエットを有する。   The knitwear obtained by the present invention has a silhouette that matches the shape of the human body by increasing the circumference of the armhole by increasing the number of the armhole in the course direction, increasing the circumferential length and expanding the shoulder width. .

さらに本発明により得られるニットウェアは、アームホールで重ね目となる編目が減り、接合部位の厚みが減る。増目の孔埋めに関しては、掛目を設けたものではないため、他の編目と同じ見栄えを実現できる。   Furthermore, in the knitwear obtained by the present invention, the stitches that become the double stitches in the armholes are reduced, and the thickness of the joint portion is reduced. With respect to the filling of the increased stitches, since the hooks are not provided, the same appearance as the other stitches can be realized.

本発明の実施例であるセーター1の前身側を示す図である。It is a figure which shows the front side of the sweater 1 which is an Example of this invention. 本発明の実施例であるセーター1の右前側のアームホール5Rの増目部6Rにおける編成図である。FIG. 5 is a knitting diagram in an increased number part 6R of an arm hole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 according to the embodiment of the present invention. 本発明の実施例であるセーター1の右前側のアームホール5Rの増目部6Rにおける編目を係止する針床の状態を示す簡略図である。It is a simplified diagram showing the state of the needle bed that locks the stitches in the increased portion 6R of the arm hole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 that is an embodiment of the present invention. セーター1の右前側のアームホール5Rで、右袖3の減らしと前身頃2の増やしを独立して行う際の編目を係止する針床の状態を示す簡略図である。FIG. 6 is a simplified diagram showing a state of a needle bed that locks a stitch when an arm hole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 independently reduces the right sleeve 3 and increases the front body 2; 本発明の実施例であるセーター1の右前側のアームホール5Rの増目部6Rにおける図2の変形例について、編目を係止する針床の状態を示す簡略図である。FIG. 6 is a simplified diagram showing a state of a needle bed that locks a stitch in the modified example of FIG. 2 in the increased portion 6R of the arm hole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 that is an embodiment of the present invention.

以下、本発明の実施例としてセーター1のアームホール5の編成方法について説明する。アームホール5について、前身頃2の右側に形成するものをアームホール5R、左側に形成するものをアームホール5Lとし、各アームホールに対応する増目部6について、それぞれ、右側を増目部6R、左側を増目部6Lとする。以下の説明で編成に使用する横編機は、前後一対の針床を備えた2枚ベッド横編機であり、後針床が前針床に対してラッキング可能なものである。編成図は、説明の便宜上、実際の編成より針数を少なくしている。また、公知の4枚ベッド横編機を使ってもよい。その場合は目移し等に使う為の空針は必要としない。   Hereinafter, a method for knitting the armhole 5 of the sweater 1 will be described as an embodiment of the present invention. As for the armhole 5, the armhole 5R is formed on the right side of the front body 2 and the armhole 5L is formed on the left side. As for the increased portion 6 corresponding to each armhole, the increased portion 6R on the right side and the increased on the left side, respectively. Let it be the eye part 6L. The flat knitting machine used for knitting in the following description is a two-bed flat knitting machine having a pair of front and back needle beds, and the rear needle bed can be racked with respect to the front needle bed. In the knitting diagram, the number of stitches is made smaller than the actual knitting for convenience of explanation. A known four-bed flat knitting machine may be used. In that case, an empty needle is not required for transfer.

図1は、セーター1における前身側を示す図である。本実施例で編成するVネックのセットインタイプのセーター1は、前身頃2の両側に右袖3と左袖4を有し、それらが脇下から肩7のラインに至るまでアームホール5で接合される。さらにセーター1には、V首によるネックホール8があり、ネックホール8の底部で前身頃2が左右に分岐する。また、脇近傍に位置する減らし部9では、前身頃2の編幅を減らすと共に、重ね目がファッションマークとなっている。セーター1では、左右の増目部6R,6Lと合せて左右のアームホール5R,5Lの形状を略円弧状の形状とし、アームホール5の周長を増やしている。増目部6は、前身頃2が分岐した位置よりも肩7側のアームホール5の上部側に形成され、アームホール5の上部側でコース方向に増目している。増目部6を増やせば、身幅に影響せずに肩幅を広げることもできる。   FIG. 1 is a diagram illustrating a front side of the sweater 1. The V-neck set-in type sweater 1 knitted in this embodiment has a right sleeve 3 and a left sleeve 4 on both sides of the front body 2, and these are joined at the armhole 5 from the armpit to the line of the shoulder 7. Is done. Further, the sweater 1 has a neck hole 8 with a V neck, and the front body 2 branches right and left at the bottom of the neck hole 8. Moreover, in the reduction part 9 located in the side vicinity, while reducing the knitting width of the front body 2, the double stitches are fashion marks. In the sweater 1, the left and right arm holes 5R and 5L are combined with the left and right increase portions 6R and 6L so that the shape of the left and right arm holes 5R and 5L is a substantially arc shape, and the circumference of the arm hole 5 is increased. The increased portion 6 is formed on the upper side of the arm hole 5 on the shoulder 7 side from the position where the front body 2 is branched, and is increased in the course direction on the upper side of the arm hole 5. If the increased portion 6 is increased, the shoulder width can be increased without affecting the width of the body.

前身頃2と左右の袖3,4をそれぞれ裾、袖口から編み始め、アームホール5の増目部6に至るまでは、文献1の編成方法と同じであるため、増目部6までの編成に関する説明は省略する。更にセーター1は筒状に形成されるが、前後身頃の左右のアームホール5R,5Lと左右の袖3,4との接合においても編成方法がそれぞれ前後左右で対称なため、前身頃2の右側のアームホール5Rにおける編成方法で説明する。編地はすべて天竺で編成する。   Since the front body 2 and the left and right sleeves 3 and 4 are knitted from the hem and cuffs and reach the increased portion 6 of the armhole 5, the knitting method is the same as the knitting method of Reference 1, and therefore, the knitting up to the increased portion 6 is concerned. Description is omitted. Furthermore, the sweater 1 is formed in a cylindrical shape, but the knitting method is symmetrical in the front, back, left, and right when joining the left and right armholes 5R, 5L and the left and right sleeves 3, 4, respectively. The knitting method in the armhole 5R will be described. All the knitted fabrics are knitted with tengu.

図2は、本発明の実施例であるセーター1の右前側のアームホール5Rの増目部6Rにおける編成図である。後述する図3〜図5にも適用するが、図中、黒丸は新たに形成する編目を、白丸は編針に係止したままの旧編目を、二重丸は重ね目を、白三角は増目の形成時に空針に移動した編目を、矢印は目移しを示す。またFBは前針床を、BBは後針床を示し、大文字のA〜TはFBの編針を、小文字のa〜tはBBの編針を、S+数字は編成ステップを示す。   FIG. 2 is a knitting diagram in the increased portion 6R of the arm hole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 according to the embodiment of the present invention. 3 to 5, which will be described later, in the figure, the black circle is the newly formed stitch, the white circle is the old stitch that remains locked to the knitting needle, the double circle is the double stitch, and the white triangle is increased. The arrow indicates the transfer of the stitch that has moved to the empty needle during the formation of the eye. FB represents the front needle bed, BB represents the rear needle bed, uppercase letters A to T represent FB knitting needles, lowercase letters a to t represent BB knitting needles, and S + numbers represent knitting steps.

以下、編成ステップS1〜S12について説明する。S1では、前身頃2と右袖3をFBで編成する。右袖3を示す編針A,C,E,Gと前身頃2を示す編針I,K,M,O,Q,Sで編目を形成する。S2は、S1の編成方向とは逆方向に、FBの編針S〜Aで編目を形成するが、編針Gのみミス編成行う。後述するS3〜S5で行う目移しで、交差の状態となる編針Gと編針I間の隣接した編目の繋がりを断つことで、編成を容易にすることができる。なお、編針Gはニット編成でも良い。   Hereinafter, the knitting steps S1 to S12 will be described. In S1, the front body 2 and the right sleeve 3 are knitted with FB. A stitch is formed by knitting needles A, C, E, and G showing the right sleeve 3 and knitting needles I, K, M, O, Q, and S showing the front body 2. In S2, a stitch is formed with the knitting needles S to A of the FB in the direction opposite to the knitting direction of S1, but only the knitting needle G is knitted. By knitting the adjacent stitches between the knitting needle G and the knitting needle I which are in an intersecting state by transfer performed in S3 to S5 described later, knitting can be facilitated. The knitting needle G may be knit knitted.

S3では、FBの編針A,C,E,G,Iの編目をそれぞれBBの編針a,c,e,g,iに目移しする。それらの編針A,C,E,Gは右袖3の全ての編目であり、編針Iは該編目に隣接する前身頃2の端部1つの編目である。S4では、BBを2ピッチ(針)左にラッキングし、BBの編針iの編目を編針Gに目移しする。FBの編針Iは編目が右袖3の方向に移動して無くなり、前身頃2の編幅内に空針を設けている。前身頃2の編幅は、編針Iに係止していた編目が右袖3の方向に移動することで1つの編目分が増える。   In S3, the stitches of the knitting needles A, C, E, G, and I of the FB are transferred to the knitting needles a, c, e, g, and i of the BB, respectively. The knitting needles A, C, E, and G are all stitches of the right sleeve 3, and the knitting needle I is a stitch at one end portion of the front body 2 adjacent to the stitches. In S4, BB is racked to the left by 2 pitches (needle), and the stitch of the knitting needle i of BB is transferred to the knitting needle G. The knitting needle I of the FB is lost as the stitch moves in the direction of the right sleeve 3, and a blank needle is provided within the knitting width of the front body 2. The knitting width of the front body 2 increases by one stitch as the stitches locked to the knitting needle I move in the direction of the right sleeve 3.

S5では、S4の状態からBBを4ピッチ右にラッキングし、BBの編針a,c,e,gの編目を、それぞれFBの編針C,E,G,Iに目移しする。S1時、右袖3の編目であるFBの編針A,C,E,Gの4つの編目は、このS5で編針C,Eの2つの編目に減少している。その減少した2つの編目は、編針G,Iに移動して右袖3の減らしと前身頃2の増目が同時に完了する。つまり空針の孔埋めを行い増目を行っている。FBの編針Gは重ね目となり、S4で空針となっていた編針Iは重ね目とはならない。編針Iに係止する編目は、新たな編目を形成したのではなく、袖の減らしの編目を充当した形となる。空針に編目が移動するため、重ね目とはならず、空針を利用することで重ね目を設ける編目が減る。そのことで、接合部位の厚みも減る。また、この2つの編針G,Iに係止する編目は、S2の編成時から編目の位置が入れ替わっている。空針に掛目を形成する場合には編目が大きくなり目立ち易いが、本実施例では、編目を入れ替えることで隣接する編目の間も広がらず、編目の見栄えも変わらず綺麗に仕上がる。
In S5, the BB is racked to the right by 4 pitches from the state of S4, and the stitches of the knitting needles a, c, e, and g of the BB are transferred to the knitting needles C, E, G, and I of the FB, respectively. At S1, the four stitches of the FB knitting needles A, C, E, and G which are stitches of the right sleeve 3 are reduced to the two stitches of the knitting needles C and E at S5. The two reduced stitches move to the knitting needles G and I, and the reduction of the right sleeve 3 and the increase of the front body 2 are completed simultaneously. In other words, the holes are filled by empty holes. The knitting needle G of the FB becomes a double stitch, and the knitting needle I that has become a blank needle in S4 does not become a double stitch. The stitches that are locked to the knitting needle I are not formed with new stitches, but have a shape in which the stitches with reduced sleeves are applied. Since the stitches move to the empty needles, they do not become double stitches, but the number of stitches provided with double stitches is reduced by using the empty needles. As a result, the thickness of the bonded portion is also reduced. Further, the stitches locked to the two knitting needles G and I have their stitch positions changed since the knitting at S2. In the case where the stitches are formed on the empty needle, the stitches become large and easily noticeable. However, in this embodiment, the stitches are exchanged so that the adjacent stitches do not spread and the appearance of the stitches is not changed, and the stitches are finished beautifully.

S6では、S5の状態からBBを2ピッチ左にラッキングし、FBの編針C〜Sで編目を形成する。S7では、S6の編成方向とは逆方向に、FBの編針S〜Cで編目を形成するが、S2と同じ目的で編針Gのみミス編成行う。S8では、FBの編針C,E,Gの編目をそれぞれBBの編針c,e,gに目移しする。それらの編針C,Eは右袖3の全ての編目であり、編針Gは該編目に隣接する前身頃2の端部1つの編目である。S9では、BBを2ピッチ左にラッキングし、BBの編針gの編目を編針Eに目移しする。FBの編針Gは空針となるが、前身頃2の編幅は、編針Gに係止していた編目が右袖3の方向に移動することでさらに1つの編目分が増える。S10では、S9の状態からBBを4ピッチ右にラッキングし、BBの編針c,eの編目を、それぞれFBの編針E,Gに目移しする。S7時、右袖3の編目であるFBの編針C,Eの2つの編目は、このステップで減少して無くなり、その減少した2つの編目が編針E,Gに移動し、右袖3の減らしと前身頃2の増目が同時に完了する。   In S6, BB is racked to the left by 2 pitches from the state of S5, and stitches are formed by the knitting needles C to S of the FB. In S7, stitches are formed with the knitting needles S to C of the FB in the direction opposite to the knitting direction of S6, but only the knitting needle G is knitted for the same purpose as S2. In S8, the stitches of the knitting needles C, E, and G of the FB are transferred to the knitting needles c, e, and g of the BB, respectively. These knitting needles C and E are all stitches of the right sleeve 3, and the knitting needle G is one stitch of the end portion of the front body 2 adjacent to the stitches. In S9, the BB is racked to the left by 2 pitches, and the stitch of the knitting needle g of the BB is transferred to the knitting needle E. The knitting needle G of the FB is an empty needle, but the knitting width of the front body 2 is further increased by one stitch when the stitch that is locked to the knitting needle G moves in the direction of the right sleeve 3. In S10, the BB is racked to the right by 4 pitches from the state of S9, and the stitches of the knitting needles c and e of the BB are transferred to the knitting needles E and G of the FB, respectively. At S7, the two stitches of the knitting needles C and E of the FB, which are the stitches of the right sleeve 3, are reduced by this step and the two stitches that have been reduced move to the knitting needles E and G, and the right sleeve 3 is reduced. And the increase of the front body 2 is completed at the same time.

S10により、FBの編針Eの編目は重ね目となり、S9で空針となっていた編針Gは重ね目とはならない。編針Gに係止する編目は、新たな編目を形成したのではなく、袖の減らしの編目を充当した形となる。S11では、S10の状態からBBを2ピッチ左にラッキングし、FBの編針E〜Sで編目を形成する。S12では、S11の編成方向とは逆方向に、FBの編針S〜Eで編目を形成する。一連のステップで、S1とS12を比較すると、右袖3の4目が無くなり、前身頃2の編目が2目増目されて8目となっており、袖の2目減らしを2回と、身頃の1目増やしを2回実施した形となる。   By S10, the stitches of the knitting needle E of the FB become double stitches, and the knitting needles G that have become empty needles in S9 do not become double stitches. The stitches that are locked to the knitting needles G are not formed with new stitches, but are formed with appropriate stitches for reducing sleeves. In S11, BB is racked to the left by 2 pitches from the state of S10, and stitches are formed by the knitting needles E to S of the FB. In S12, stitches are formed with the knitting needles S to E of the FB in the direction opposite to the knitting direction of S11. When S1 and S12 are compared in a series of steps, the 4th of the right sleeve 3 is lost, the 2nd stitch of the front body 2 is increased to 8th, and the 2nd reduction of the sleeve is 2 times. It becomes the form which carried out the 1st increase of the body twice.

図2の一連のステップの中で、本発明の特徴とする部分を簡略化して図3に示す。ステップの表示は図2と共通であり、同じステップ番号は内容が同じであることを示す。図3は、本発明の実施例であるセーター1の右前側のアームホール5Rの増目部6Rにおける編目を係止する針床の状態を示す簡略図である。アームホール5Rの形成において、前身頃2の右側と右袖3の編目の編成をS1で、前身頃2の増目と右袖3の減らしを行った後をS5で示す。前身頃2の増目処理として1目分移動した前身頃2の端部の1目と、右袖3の減らし処理として減らした2目を組み合わせて同じ編成コース上で処理する。増目の形成のため空針に移動した編目は編針Iに係止し、重ね目は隣接する編針Gに形成される。アームホール5Rの上部側に増目部6Rを形成すれば、前身頃2がコース方向に増目されてアームホール5Rの周長が増える。また、脇近傍の減らし部9と合せて略円弧状のアームホール5Rとなり、肩幅を減らすことなく人体形状に合った形のシルエットが形成できる。   In the series of steps of FIG. 2, the characteristic features of the present invention are simplified and shown in FIG. The step display is the same as in FIG. 2, and the same step number indicates the same content. FIG. 3 is a simplified diagram showing a state of the needle bed that locks the stitches in the increased portion 6R of the arm hole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1 according to the embodiment of the present invention. In the formation of the armhole 5R, the knitting of the right side of the front body 2 and the stitches of the right sleeve 3 is indicated by S1, and the increase of the front body 2 and the reduction of the right sleeve 3 are indicated by S5. As the increase process of the front body 2, the first stitch at the end of the front body 2 moved by one stitch and the second stitch reduced as the reduction process of the right sleeve 3 are combined and processed on the same knitting course. The stitches that have moved to the empty needle to form the increased stitches are locked to the knitting needle I, and the double stitches are formed on the adjacent knitting needles G. If the increased portion 6R is formed on the upper side of the arm hole 5R, the front body 2 is increased in the course direction and the circumference of the arm hole 5R is increased. In addition, a substantially arc-shaped arm hole 5R is formed together with the reduced portion 9 in the vicinity of the side, and a silhouette having a shape matching the human body shape can be formed without reducing the shoulder width.

図4は、セーター1の右前側のアームホール5Rで、袖の減らしと身頃の増やしを独立して行う際の編目を係止する針床の状態を示す簡略図である。右袖3の減らし処理と前身頃2の増目処理をそれぞれ単独で行う方法を示している。各ステップを示すS1〜S3のうち、S1は図3のS1と同じであるが、S2の編針Iを空針にして編幅を増やした後、編針Iの孔埋めを行うステップ(前身頃2の増やし)と、S3の2つの重ね目を形成するステップ(右袖3の減らし)が図3のS2とは異なっている。この場合、図4のS2において、編針Iの孔埋めを行うには何種類かの方法があるが、その一例を示す。S1の編成の際に、編針S〜Iに新たな編目を形成した後、新たに逆方向に糸を供給して編針iに掛目を形成するステップを追加し、残りの編針G〜Aに新たな編目を形成する。また、該掛目を編針Iに移動するもう1つのステップの追加が必要であり、編成に使う横編機のカムシステム数などにより、更に編成ステップの追加が必要な場合がある。S3においては、S2の前身頃2の増やしとは関係なく、右袖3の減らしの際の2つの編目が前身頃2に重ね目を形成する。この編成方法によれば、右袖3の減らし処理と前身頃2の増目処理をそれぞれ単独で行うことで、処理を行う位置や回数を自由に設定でき、アームホール5Rの形状においても細かな設定ができる。   FIG. 4 is a simplified diagram illustrating a state of the needle bed that locks the stitches when the sleeve is reduced and the body is independently increased in the arm hole 5 </ b> R on the right front side of the sweater 1. The method of performing the reduction process of the right sleeve 3 and the increase process of the front body 2 independently is shown. Of S1 to S3 indicating each step, S1 is the same as S1 in FIG. 3, but after the knitting needle I of S2 is emptied to increase the knitting width, the knitting needle I is filled (front body 2 3) and the step of forming the second overlap of S3 (reduction of the right sleeve 3) are different from S2 in FIG. In this case, there are several methods for filling the knitting needle I in S2 in FIG. During the knitting of S1, after adding new stitches to the knitting needles S to I, a step of newly supplying yarn in the opposite direction to form hooks on the knitting needle i is added, and new stitches G to A are newly added. A perfect stitch. Further, it is necessary to add another step for moving the hook to the knitting needle I, and an additional knitting step may be necessary depending on the number of cam systems of the flat knitting machine used for knitting. In S3, regardless of the increase in the front body 2 of S2, the two stitches when the right sleeve 3 is reduced form a double stitch on the front body 2. According to this knitting method, the right sleeve 3 reduction processing and the front body 2 increase processing can be performed independently, so that the position and number of processing can be freely set, and the shape of the armhole 5R is also finely set. Can do.

一方、図3で示す編成では、右袖3の減らし処理と前身頃2の増目処理が相殺される形で同時に行われている。図4での編成に比べても少ないステップで右袖3の減らし処理と前身頃2の増目処理が可能となり、編成効率が良い。さらに、編目の入れ替えで孔埋めも行える為、掛目を使った増目も不要で、他の編目の形成と同じ編成で得た編目を適用でき、同じ見栄えを実現できる。   On the other hand, in the knitting shown in FIG. 3, the process of reducing the right sleeve 3 and the process of increasing the number of the front body 2 are performed at the same time. Compared to the knitting in FIG. 4, the right sleeve 3 can be reduced and the front body 2 can be increased with fewer steps, and the knitting efficiency is good. Further, since the hole can be filled by replacing the stitches, it is not necessary to increase the stitches using the hooks, and the stitches obtained by the same knitting as the formation of the other stitches can be applied, and the same appearance can be realized.

図5は、セーター1の右前側のアームホール5Rの増目部6Rにおける図2の変形例について、編目を係止する針床の状態を示す簡略図である。図2では、袖の減らし処理の編目数と身頃の増やし処理の編目数とを組み合わせ、同じ編成コース上で適用できることを前述したが、その組み合わせは多数存在する。図5(a)、(b)で減らしの編目数と増やしの編目数を変更した組み合わせを一例として示す。また、図中に示すXとYは交差を行っている編目を示す。   FIG. 5 is a simplified diagram showing the state of the needle bed that locks the stitches in the modified example of FIG. 2 in the increased portion 6R of the arm hole 5R on the right front side of the sweater 1. FIG. In FIG. 2, it has been described above that the number of stitches in the sleeve reduction process and the number of stitches in the body increase process can be combined and applied on the same knitting course, but there are many combinations. A combination in which the number of stitches to be reduced and the number of stitches to be increased is changed is shown as an example in FIGS. Further, X and Y shown in the figure indicate stitches that intersect.

図5(a)に示すように、S1で、編針A〜Sの編目で新たな編目を形成後、S2で示す前身頃2の増目が端部の編針Iの1目の移動で行った増目と、S3で示す右袖の減らしが3目の減らしを組み合わせると、重ね目は空針の両隣りとなる前身頃2の編針Gと編針Kの位置に形成される。右袖3を減らした3目のうち、2目が重ね目となり、1目が孔埋めに使われる。これらの編成においては、編目の交差が身頃端部で行われている為、重ね目となる編目がファッションラインとなり、前身頃2と右袖3の境界として編目がウェール方向に繋がる。さらに図5(b)に示すように、S1で、編針A〜Sの編目で新たな編目を形成後、S2で示す前身頃2の増目が端部の編針Iと編針Kの2目の移動で行った増目とする。さらに4ピッチの移動で空針を編針Iと編針Kに2つ設けて、S3で示す右袖の減らしが4目の減らしと組み合わせる。編目の位置が入れ替わることで形成される編目の交差はXが2目とYが2目となり、2x2の交差柄としても利用可能となる。   As shown in FIG. 5A, after forming a new stitch with the stitches of the knitting needles A to S in S1, the increase of the front body 2 shown in S2 is performed by the movement of the first knitting needle I at the end. When the increase stitch and the reduction of the right sleeve shown in S3 are combined with the reduction of the third stitch, the overlap stitch is formed at the position of the knitting needle G and the knitting needle K of the front body 2 that are adjacent to the empty needle. Of the three eyes with the right sleeve 3 reduced, the second one becomes the double stitch and the first one is used for filling the hole. In these knitting, the stitches are crossed at the end of the body, so the stitches that become the double stitches become the fashion line, and the stitches are connected in the wale direction as the boundary between the front body 2 and the right sleeve 3. Further, as shown in FIG. 5B, after forming a new stitch with the stitches of the knitting needles A to S in S1, the increase of the front body 2 shown in S2 is the second stitch of the knitting needle I and the knitting needle K at the end. It is an increase made by moving. Further, two empty needles are provided on the knitting needle I and the knitting needle K by movement of 4 pitches, and the reduction of the right sleeve shown in S3 is combined with the reduction of the fourth stitch. The crossing of stitches formed by changing the positions of the stitches is X for the second stitch and Y for the second stitch, and can be used as a 2 × 2 cross pattern.

本実施例における増目の形成は袖と身頃がコース方向に繋がった状態で形成しているが、これに限らず、袖と編目の編成コース数を変えるために、身頃或いは袖の領域を折り返して編成し、身頃と袖のウェール方向の編目数の差を設けることで、袖と身頃がコース方向に繋がっていない状態となるが、この場合にも本発明の編成方法が適用できる。袖と身頃の直接の繋がりを持たないことで、目移しの際のラッキング量が大きい場合等にも、編成が容易となる。   In this embodiment, the increased number of stitches is formed in a state where the sleeve and the body are connected in the course direction. However, the present invention is not limited to this, and in order to change the number of knitting courses of the sleeve and the stitch, the body or the sleeve region is folded back. In this case, the knitting method of the present invention can be applied. However, the sleeve and the body are not connected in the course direction by providing a difference in the number of stitches in the wale direction between the body and the sleeve. Since there is no direct connection between the sleeve and the body, knitting is facilitated even when the amount of racking at the time of transfer is large.

1 セーター
2 前身頃
3 右袖
5 アームホール
6 増目部

1 Sweater 2 Front Body 3 Right Sleeve 5 Armhole 6 Additional Section

Claims (4)

少なくとも前後一対の針床を有する横編機を用い、袖と身頃を有するニットウェアの編成方法において、袖の全ての編目と該編目に隣接する身頃の端部近傍の編目をそれぞれ該袖方向に移動することで身頃の編幅内に空針を設けて身頃の編幅を増やす工程と、前記空針の孔埋めを行うことで身頃を増目する工程と、袖の全ての編目を袖の減らしとして該身頃方向に移動することで袖の編目と身頃の端部近傍の編目による重ね目を設ける工程を備えることを特徴とする袖と身頃を有するニットウェアの編成方法。 Using a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds, in a knitting method of knitwear having a sleeve and a body, all the stitches of the sleeve and stitches in the vicinity of the end of the body adjacent to the stitch are respectively in the sleeve direction. sleeves comprising the steps of increasing the knitting width of the body by moving by providing a empty needle in the knitting width of the body, a process for increasing eye body with hole filling line Ukoto said empty needles, all stitches of the sleeve A method for knitting knitwear having a sleeve and a body, comprising a step of providing a double stitch by a stitch of a sleeve and a stitch in the vicinity of the end of the body by moving in the body direction as a reduction of the body. 前記空針の孔埋めは、前記袖の減らしの際に袖の編目で行うことを特徴とする請求項1記載の袖と身頃を有するニットウェアの編成方法。
The empty needles of the hole filling is knitwear knitting method of having sleeves and the body according to claim 1, characterized in that in the sleeve knitted eyes upon decreasing of the sleeve.
横編機を用い、袖と身頃の接合によりアームホールが形成される袖と身頃を有するニットウェアにおいて、アームホールでは、袖の全ての編目と該編目に隣接する身頃の端部近傍の編目が、それぞれ該袖方向に移動して身頃の編幅内に空針を設けて身頃の編幅を増やし、該空針の孔埋めにより身頃の増目をし、身頃と袖の接合として該身頃方向に移動することで袖を減らす編目が重ね目となることを特徴とする袖と身頃を有するニットウェア。 In a knitwear having a sleeve and a body, in which an armhole is formed by joining the sleeve and the body using a flat knitting machine, in the armhole, all the stitches of the sleeve and the stitches near the end of the body adjacent to the stitches are respectively Move in the sleeve direction to increase the knitting width of the body by providing empty needles in the knitting width of the body, increase the number of the body by filling the holes of the empty needle, and move in the body direction as a joint between the body and the sleeve The knitwear which has the sleeve and the body characterized by the stitch which reduces a sleeve by doing becomes a double stitch. 前記袖を減らす編目は、前記空針の孔埋めに充当し、増目された編成コース上で身頃の編目と袖の編目が交差することを特徴とする請求項3記載の袖と身頃を有するニットウェア。






4. The sleeve and the body according to claim 3, wherein the stitch for reducing the sleeve is used for filling the empty needle, and the stitch of the body and the stitch of the sleeve intersect on the increased knitting course. Knitwear.






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