EP3737352A1

EP3737352A1 - Cosmetic use of a protein extract of moringa oleifera seeds

Info

Publication number: EP3737352A1
Application number: EP19703393.9A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Louis Danoux; Pierre DEPOUILLY; Sabrina Leoty-Okombi; Boris VOGELGESANG
Original assignee: BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS
Current assignee: BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS
Priority date: 2018-01-09
Filing date: 2019-01-09
Publication date: 2020-11-18
Also published as: KR20200106893A; CN111526864A; JP2024045614A; FR3076460A1; FR3076460B1; WO2019138182A1; JP2021509410A; US20200330366A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a protein extract of defatted non-germinated Moringa oleifera seeds for the treatment of sensitive, sensitized, reactive, fragile and/or weakened skin and/or mucous membranes. The invention also relates to a protein extract of defatted non-germinated Moringa oleifera seeds for use in the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies related to sensitive, sensitized, reactive, fragile, weakened, intolerant, hyperreactive and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membranes, such as contact urticaria, irritative or allergic contact dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, seborrheic or atopic dermatitis, and/or in the treatment and/or prevention of inflammation and/or irritation, in particular caused by Staphylococcus aureus, and/or in the treatment and/or prevention of erythema, in particular diaper rash.

Description

TITLE: COSMETIC USE OF A PROTEIN EXTRACT FROM MORINGA OLEIFERA SEEDS

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetology and dermatology, more particularly skincare and mucosal skincare cosmetics, in particular skins and / or mucous membranes which are sensitive, sensitized, reactive, fragile, and / or weakened, and use of a protein extract of ungerminated seed deoiled from Moringa. The genus Moringa comprises some 14 species of plants (including Moringa peregrina, M. aptera, M. concanensis, M. clroithardii, M. hildebrandtii, M. longituba), of which Moringa pterygosperma (synonym Moringa oleifera) is the best known.

It is a fast-growing tree that adapts very well to varying conditions, growing throughout the tropics, Asia, Africa and South America. The fruit is 30 to 50 cm long, hangs like drum sticks from where the English name "drumstick tree", and its green pods are appreciated as a vegetable all over the world. As a result, seed is rarely allowed to ripen for oil production.

The different parts of the tree (leaves, roots, bark of roots, flowers, seeds) are used in traditional medicine in the countries where it grows.

The seeds of Moringa are characterized by the presence of an oil whose content varies between 21 and 53% according to the species and the maturity of the seeds. For the Moringa oleifera species, the levels mentioned in the literature range from 21 to 34%.

Due to its excellent oxidation stability and good perfume attachment properties, Moringa oil, also called Behen or Ben oil, was in ancient civilizations, the most used oil by formulators ointments to cosmetic and religious uses. This oil has been used by formulators in cosmetics until the last century and its use has been "rediscovered" recently. Apart from their oil content, Moringa seeds have more recently attracted the attention of researchers for their protein extract. Thus, the application EP1064008 describes the use of a protein extract of Moringa seeds on the skin and the mucous membranes for their softening effect, physiological conditioner, moisturizing, restructuring, repairing, anti-wrinkle and as an antipollution agent.

Such an extract is in particular marketed by BASF under the name Purisoft® for its purifying and anti-pollution effect.

The article by ARMAND-STUSSI et al. (Personal care, May 2003) also describes the purifying and anti-pollution effect (combating the harmful effects of pollution on the skin such as cigarette smoke or heavy metals and eliminating or facilitating the removal of microparticles on skin such as coal dust) of the extract marketed by BASF under the name Purisoft®.

The application WO02 / 096448 describes for its part the use of a protein seed extract delipidated or not in the fields of deodorization, elimination of bad odors, cleanliness, personal hygiene, oral hygiene, dental care. In particular this document further describes that such an extract has a soothing, softening, moisturizing and reducing the feeling of tiredness. However, this soothing effect is at no time suggested as being related to a decrease in the reactivity of the skin or to a treatment of inflammation of the skin and / or mucous membranes. In addition, this document indicates that the extract maintains the balance of the bacterial and fungal flora on the surface of the mucous membranes, but only in the sense that it does not, unlike the other conventional deodorants. Thus, this application neither describes nor suggests that the extract may be used in the treatment of sensitive and sensitized, reactive, fragile, weakened and / or intolerant skins and / or mucous membranes, in particular by reducing inflammation, or that he may have a beneficial effect on the beneficial commensal flora of the skin and / or mucous membranes, by preserving and / or increasing it.

Application FR2946879 also describes a Moringa extract for its use in cosmetics. However, it is an entire seed extract, that is to say, not deoiled.

The application CN103223010 also describes the use of a seed extract of Moringa seeds in cosmetics, in particular obtained by extraction with a supercritical fluid, extraction process which extracts the oily compounds. The present invention thus relates to a new use of a protein extract of non-germinated seed de-oiled Moringa oleifera that has never been described or suggested in the prior art.

In fact, the inventors have discovered that such an extract makes it possible to inhibit the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-8, in particular induced by opportunistic S. aureus pathogenic bacteria (Example 2). This extract therefore has an effect on the inflammation processes of the skin by reducing them and is therefore a product of choice in the treatment of skin and / or mucous sensitive, sensitized, reactive, fragile, and / or weakened.

Reactions of irritation and skin allergies (delayed hypersensitivity of contact or contact allergy or contact eczema) have become a health problem in industrialized countries. The causes are as varied as the number of irritants and contact allergens found, for example, in metal salts, cosmetics and hygiene products, perfumes, medicines, preservatives, disinfectants, clothing, plants, etc. In this same context, the number of people who say they have sensitive or reactive skin has increased sharply in recent years. This number rose from 30% of the population in the 1980s to around 60% today. One of the most important causes of skin sensitivity is the weakening of the barrier function, caused inter alia by hereditary / acquired deficiency of intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum. Increased neuro-sensory activity, which is characterized by changes in the nerve endings of the epidermis, neurotransmitter accumulation, or disruption of information transmission in the central nervous system, is also a factor the sensitivity of the skin. A third additional cause of skin sensitivity is an increased immune sensitivity comprising in particular a measurable increase in the density of epidermal Langerhans (CL) cells, which can, in the most extreme cases, lead to pathologies such as urticaria. contact, irritative or allergic contact dermatitis, or atopic dermatitis.

The polymorphism of sensitive skin is reflected by subjective sensations such as redness, feeling of warmth or warmth, tension, tingling, tingling, tightness. These unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations are characteristic of sensitive skin. In the most extreme cases, irritations or allergic reactions are also described.

Both in cosmetics and in pharmacy, it is known to reduce the sensitivity of all types of skin, especially by preventing and / or treating the inflammatory or irritating reaction. Indeed, in subjects for whom the skin is said to be "sensitive", even minor exposure to aggressive agents or irritating conditions may result in said unsightly and / or uncomfortable cutaneous and / or mucosal manifestations possibly leading to an inflammation reaction. or significant irritation that should be avoided. The current treatments for sensitive skin aim to make the skin more tolerant, that is to say to raise the threshold of reactivity of sensitive skin that is characterized by a lower threshold of irritability to irritating reactions, by example by inhibiting the release of cytokines pro- inflammatory drugs IL-6 and IL-8. Given the number of people with skin sensitivity problems and despite the treatments available today, it is essential to find new treatments that have an effect on the factors of inflammation of the skin to be able to treat such skins. .

The inventors have furthermore discovered that the non-germinated seed extract of Moringa oleifera dewaxed seed also has an impact on the cutaneous and / or mucosal microbial flora, in particular by activating the growth of commensal beneficial strains, particularly those making it possible to fight against inflammation, such as S. epidermidis and / or A. Iwoljfii (Example 3b), but also by inhibiting the growth of opportunistic pathogenic strains such as Propionibacterium acnes (Example 3a).

The skin is indeed a complex ecosystem on which proliferate several types of microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi. These microorganisms constitute the cutaneous flora, also called cutaneous microbial flora. We distinguish between: - the commensal beneficial resident flora consisting of microorganisms proliferating conventionally on healthy skin, permanently by drawing their nutrients from the skin, and bringing known benefits to the skin,

- the opportunistic pathogenic resident flora such as Propionibacterium acnes, which normally lives on the skin but which, under certain conditions, can become virulent and therefore potentially pathogenic and

transient flora, present on the skin under abnormal conditions, for example by contact with soiled elements, and which can become pathogenic in the event of proliferation.

Among the microorganisms of the commensal cutaneous flora, mention will in particular be made of the strain Staphylococcus epidermidis and the strain Acinetobacter Iwoljfii. These strains are found especially in the face on healthy skins where they participate in maintaining the balance of commensal skin flora. In contrast, the strain Staphylococcus aareus may be considered part of the transient skin flora potentially pathogenic to human skin and the strain Propionibacterium acnes as part of the resident opportunistic pathogenic flora. Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes in case of proliferation can indeed cause a microbial imbalance in the skin flora, making it more vulnerable to infections and fungi, induce inflammation, including redness, swelling or even pimples and a burning sensation and / or localized heat accompanied by pain, pigmentation spots or scars for example following acne and therefore an inhomogeneity of the complexion, and finally may be the cause of actual infectious skin diseases such as skin infections such as boils, folliculitis, ulcers, abscesses, sycosis impetigo, ecthyma, erysipelas or acne. In addition, a disturbance of the commensal flora can also be at the origin of mycoses of the skin such as candidiasis. A disturbance of the flora of the oral mucosa, in particular of the gingival mucosa, can be the cause of gingivitis. Cosmetic or dermatological solutions are already known to act on the cutaneous microbial flora. On the other hand, their actions are often antiseptic. These modes of action are thus not targeted because they are not directed against a strain of specific microorganism. There are solutions for acting on the cutaneous microbial flora by targeting a group such as bacteria in the field of pharmaceutical ingredients. Examples include antibiotics. However, antibiotics have the disadvantage of not always being tolerated especially in oral administration and further induce the development of resistance. In addition, antibiotics in general act not only on the pathogenic microbial flora, but also on the commensal microbial flora, which can result in the appearance of fungal infections. Therefore, there is a significant need in the field of cosmetic and dermatology to provide active ingredients on the cutaneous microbial flora, especially by targeted action on a particular microbial strain or by protection of commensal flora, which are readily available and do not have the disadvantages or side effects described above.

The present invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of a protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled Moringa oleifera, preferably a protein extract ungerminated seed delipidated, in particular a protein extract of deoiled cake, more particularly delipidated, non-germinated seeds, more advantageously non-germinated seed almonds, Moringa oleifera, for the treatment of skin and / or sensitive mucosa, sensitized, fragile and / or fragile.

In general, sensitive skins and / or mucous membranes may be defined as skins which, by nature, tolerate only very little aggressive agents, especially environmental agents such as pollutants, climatic factors (wind , cold, heat), UV exposures, emotional factors including stress and / or chemical agents (heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH, AHA or dermatological such as vitamin A acid) and / or aggressive conditions including sweating and mechanical aggression such as waxing, shaving, rubbing and even water especially limestone. Sensitive skins are not skins with pathological characters unlike allergic skins. They can nevertheless react to aggressive agents and / or conditions by unsightly and / or uncomfortable cutaneous and / or mucosal manifestations such as tingling, feeling of heat or heating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness. Thus, the "sensitive skin" character can be esteemed by the subject himself with subjective skin sensations or by the dermatologist with objective cutaneous reactions.

Unsightly and uncomfortable manifestations can be generalized to the whole body, but most of the time they can have well-defined localizations such as, for example, the scalp, the face, the skin folds, the buttocks in the infant, etc. It can therefore be areas of skin and / or sensitive mucosa.

Similarly, the sensitized skin is skins made momentarily sensitive so not pathological as such.

Reactive skin, or hyperreactive or intolerant or irritable skin is a skin whose threshold of tolerance has decreased and which reacts excessively.

Fragile or fragile skin, that is to say, temporarily fragile, is a skin whose barrier function is weakened. This condition may be related to the condition of the individual, the elderly and infants with fragile skin for example. This condition can result from chemical or physical aggression (abrasion, friction, cuts).

The uncomfortable and unsightly manifestations of sensitized, fragile and / or fragile skin are the same as for sensitive skin, without these manifestations and / or skin conditions being part of the prevention and / or treatment of a pathology. I

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "cosmetic" is intended to mean a non-pharmaceutical, non-therapeutic use which is not intended for the prevention and / or treatment of skins and / or mucous membranes qualified as pathological by a specialist in the field, such as as a dermatologist. It is therefore a use on healthy skin and / or mucous membranes.

"Skin and / or healthy mucosa" means all or part of an area of skin including the scalp and / or healthy mucosa, especially human, thus having no infection, scar, disease or affection dermal candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne, ichthyosis, gingivitis or dermatitis or sores or wounds or ulcers or ulceration or burning and / or other dermatoses, or aphtosis or inflammation or irritation.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "skin" means the skin of all or part of the body, in particular human, selected from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, belly, décolleté, neck, the arms, the torso, the back, the labial mucous membrane, the face and / or the scalp, advantageously the cleavage and / or the face, still advantageously the face.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mucosa (s)", the ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the urogenital mucosa and / or the oral mucosa, especially the oral labial mucosa and / or the gingival mucosa, preferentially , ocular and / or oral mucosa, and more preferably, the gingival mucosa, labial and / or ocular, more preferably the gingival mucosa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "treatment of skin and / or sensitive, sensitized, fragile and / or weakened skins and / or mucous membranes" means reducing their reactivity so as to render them less sensitive and / or fragile, for example by decreasing and / or inhibiting the release of IL6 and / or IL8 cytokines with respect to sensitive, sensitized, fragile and / or fragile skin and / or mucosa not treated with the extract according to the invention, in particular as described in US Pat. example 2.

The ungerminated seed protein extract deoiled from Moringa oleifera according to the invention is topically and / or orally acceptable. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topically acceptable" means an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin and / or the mucous membranes, which does not induce an allergic response and which does not induce an allergic response. is not chemically unstable. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "orally acceptable" means an ingredient suitable for oral administration, non-toxic, which induces no allergic response and which is not chemically unstable.

Thus advantageously the use of the extract according to the invention is to prevent and / or treat the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitive and sensitized skins and / or mucous membranes, which are fragile and / or weakened, advantageously chosen from redness, feeling of warmth or warmth, tension, tingling, tingling, tugging, and a mixture of these manifestations. It brings a feeling of comfort to the skin and / or mucous membranes.

The present invention furthermore relates to the cosmetic use of a protein extract of non-germinated seed de-oiled with Moringa oleifera, advantageously of a protein extract of non-germinated delipidated seed, in particular of a protein extract of deoiled cake, more particularly delipidated non-germinated seeds, more advantageously ungerminated seeds almonds, Moringa oleifera, for the increase and / or protection and / or maintenance of the commensal beneficial flora in the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular commensal beneficial bacterial flora, particularly selected from the group consisting of Staphylococcus epidermidis, Acinetobacter Iwolffii and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "commensal strain" means a strain or flora beneficial to the skin and / or the mucous membranes, which does not or does not become pathogenic for the skin and / or the mucous membranes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintain and / or protect the commensal flora beneficial to the skin and / or mucous membranes" to maintain a constant content in the skin and / or mucous membranes of one or more strains. of commensal microorganisms selected from the group consisting of fungi, yeasts and bacteria, preferably bacteria, present or made on the skin or the mucous membranes, in particular human and whose action is beneficial for the skin and / or the mucous membranes such as Staphylococcus hominis, S. warneri, S. capitis, S epidermidis, Acinetobacter Iwolffii, preferentially Staphylococcus epidermidis and / or Acinetobacter Iwolffii.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "increase the commensal flora beneficial to the skin and / or mucous membranes" increase the growth of commensal flora beneficial to the skin and / or mucous membranes. Several methods can be used to measure the content of strains of microorganisms in the skin and / or mucous membranes, including a count of colonies present on the skin or mucous membranes, an in vitro optical density measurement after recovery of samples containing the strains or a PCR measurement. Advantageously, the content of the microorganisms is measured in vitro by optical density after recovery of samples containing the strains as exemplified in Example 3b.

According to the invention, the use of the ungerminated seed protein extract deoiled from Moringa oleifera according to the invention is not to improve the barrier function of the skin or to increase the hydration of the skin and / or mucous membranes neither for the treatment of dry skin, nor to soothe the skin and / or the mucous membranes, in particular the skin and / or the dry mucous membranes, nor to soften and / or reduce the sensation of fatigue of the skin and / or mucous membranes .

In particular, the use of the non-germinated seed extract of Moringa oleifera dehydrated seed according to the invention is not to protect the skin and / or the mucous membranes against pollution, more particularly urban pollution (such as heavy metals). , the exhaust gases and / or cigarette smoke) and advantageously against the damage caused by the pollution, and / or to purify the skin and / or the mucous membranes by eliminating the particles that make the skin and / or the impure mucous membranes such as pollution particles (eg coal particles).

Thus, advantageously, the cosmetic use according to the invention (and therefore non-therapeutic) is to prevent and / or reduce and / or eliminate the unsightly and / or uncomfortable effects of skins and / or mucous membranes whose commensal beneficial flora is impaired, in particular to prevent and / or reduce and / or delay the secretion of sebum and its unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations, in particular for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying the formation of black spots and / or comedogenesis and / or the shiny appearance of the skin, and / or maintain and / or improve the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes, for example by suppressing and / or reducing redness and / or irregularities, and / or to prevent and / or treat the sensation of heat and / or heat of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or to prevent and / or reduce hair loss and / or hair loss, and / or to prevent and / or reduce dandruff .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintain and / or improve the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes", to prevent and / or reduce and / or treat the imperfections of the complexion, such as redness or irregularities of the skin, so as to make the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes more homogeneous and therefore less dull and brighter, and / or to reduce the reddish appearance of the skin by giving it a healthy appearance and / or or fed and therefore a good-looking effect. The homogeneity of the complexion of the skin can for example be measured by chromametry or by image analysis. The latter method of measurement in vivo consists of taking high resolution photographs in cross polarized configuration of the face of volunteers taken at 45 ° before and after application of the tested product. On the basis of these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and to quantify specific parameters (for example: L *, a *, b *, C, h °) related to the color, the brightness, the homogeneity, and the texture of the skin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "a skin and / or mucosa whose beneficial commensal flora is impaired" skin and / or mucosa whose commensal beneficial flora content, in particular the content of Staphylococcus epidermidis and / or Acinetobacter Iwolffii, is lower than the commensal beneficial flora content, in particular the content of Staphylococcus epidermidis and / or Acinetobacter Iwolffii measured initially before the alteration or on another part of the unaltered body. In an advantageous embodiment, the beneficial commensal flora is a microorganism selected from the group consisting of Staphylococcus epidermidis, Acinetobacter Iwolffii and mixtures thereof.

In another advantageous embodiment, the non-germinated seed extract of dewaxed Moringa oleifera is applied topically, advantageously on specific parts and / or areas of the body selected from the legs, feet, armpits, hands , neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, labial mucous membrane, face and / or leather and / or the oral and / or gingival mucosa, especially shaved areas, areas of maceration such as infant seat, areas of plaice such as the armpits, the back of the elbows, the back of the knees, the buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and / or around the lips and / or excessively cleaned areas.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical route" means the application of the ungerminated seed extract of Moringa oleifera and / or of the composition and / or of the ingredient according to the invention to the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular by direct application or by spraying.

In another advantageous embodiment, the ungerminated seed extract of Moringa oleifera is orally administered, in particular for the purpose of treating the gingival mucosa. Thus, advantageously, the ungerminated seed protein extract deoiled from Moringa oleifera or the ingredient The cosmetic comprising it is in the form of a cosmetic composition intended for oral administration, in particular on the gingival mucosa, further comprising a suitable cosmetic vehicle.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical ingredient (s)" means one or more plant extracts and / or one or more natural or synthetic molecules and / or their mixtures intended for a particular purpose. cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical application. Cosmetic ingredients are defined in particular by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "suitable cosmetic or pharmaceutical vehicle" means that the composition or the components thereof are suitable for use in contact with the skin and / or the human mucosa without toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, or their equivalents, undue.

The extract according to the invention may be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, advantageously chosen from maceration, with or without stirring, hot decoction, grinding, ultrasonic grinding or ultrasonic grinding. using a mixer. Preferably, the extraction is carried out by maceration, advantageously still with stirring.

The extraction may be carried out at a temperature of 4 ° C. to 300 ° C., preferably from 20 ° C. to 80 ° C., it being understood that 20 ° C. corresponds to the ambient temperature, advantageously between 20 and 25 ° C.

The extraction will be conducted for a period of 30 minutes to 12 hours, preferably for a period of 1 hour to 5 hours, more preferably for a period of 1 hour to 2 hours. Very advantageously, the extraction will be conducted for a period of 1 hour.

The extract according to the invention may be obtained by extraction in a protic polar solvent, advantageously chosen from the group consisting of water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, from 99/1 to 1/99 (w / w), a water / glycol mixture of 99/1 to 1/99 (w / w) and a water / polyol mixture of 99/1 to 1/99 (w / w) (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol, etc.), advantageously in the water as the sole solvent. In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight. , more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more advantageously not containing glycol and in particular not containing any alcohol, more particularly containing only water.

The extract can be obtained from an amount of 0.1% to 20% of fresh or dry material, preferably dry, preferably from 1% to 10%, more preferably from 5% to 10%, very advantageously from in a quantity of 10% by weight of dry matter, non-germinated seeds delipidated from the plant Moringa oleifera, relative to the total weight of the non-germinated seeds delipidated plant and solvent.

In an advantageous embodiment, the non-germinated seed protein extract de-oiled from Moringa oleifera is as described in patent EP1064008 and is marketed by BASF under the trade name Purisoft®.

It is in particular a water-soluble extract, more particularly obtained by extraction in a protic polar solvent, advantageously in water.

The extraction process is advantageously that described in patent EP1064008 and in particular comprises the following steps:

a) - extracting the oil from the seeds of Moringa oleifera, advantageously using a press or by reflux extraction in an apolar solvent such as hexane; b) extraction of the cake or deoiled flour obtained in step a) with a polar protic solvent, in particular chosen from alcohols, polyols, glycols, water and their mixture in any proportion, advantageously with a aqueous solvent, that is to say based on water, even more advantageously with water as sole solvent, so as to obtain a crude extract, preferably as described in Example la.

Advantageously, the extraction is carried out at room temperature.

The aqueous solvent may be a salt solution at different pH or a buffered medium, more preferably at a pH of between 4 and 8.

The method may also comprise an additional step c) after step b) of precipitating the crude extract, not modifying the pH of the aqueous crude extract obtained in step b) so as to obtain a basic pH, in particular greater than 8, more preferably greater than 11, for example with the aid of NaOH, and recovery of the precipitate obtained, advantageously as described in Example 1b.

The precipitate can then be washed and then solubilized in water so as to eliminate the insolubles and to obtain an extract in the form of a protein concentrate.

The method may also comprise, after step c) of precipitation, an additional step d) of decantation so as to allow better precipitation of the proteins, for example as described in Example 1c. In particular, this step is carried out at a temperature below room temperature, preferably at 4 ^D C, more preferably for at least 6:00, especially overnight.

Instead of steps c) and d), a step e) can be carried out after step b) comprising contacting the aqueous crude extract obtained in step b) with carboxymethylcellulose, advantageously during lhOO, especially at room temperature, so as to load it with the protein extract. This step may be followed by a step f) of contacting the charged carboxymethylcellulose obtained with step e) with an aqueous saline solution, advantageously an NaCl solution, having a pH greater than 7, advantageously 7.5, and then recovering the eluate thus obtained, which corresponds to a partially purified extract.

The protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled Moringa oleifera is advantageously an extract of shelled seeds, that is to say advantageously an extract of kernel seeds only (without its shell or shell).

The method may therefore comprise a step prior to step a) of shelling the seeds.

Finally, the extracts obtained (crude extract, protein concentrate and / or partially or totally purified extract) can be centrifuged and / or filtered and / or distilled, so as to recover the water-soluble fraction and be in liquid form. Preferably, the supernatant obtained after centrifugation is filtered, advantageously at a cut-off point of 0.45 mhi. Additional steps of bleaching and / or deodorization can be performed on the extracts at any stage of the extraction and according to the techniques known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the extracts may be discolored with activated charcoal.

According to one particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention is obtained by extraction of ungerminated seed cake, in particular deoiled, more advantageously delipidated, in an aqueous saline solution at a pH of about 5 followed by elimination of the proteins. high molecular weight. The supernatant is recovered and constitutes an extract according to the invention.

The extracts may also be concentrated by evaporation of the solvent or dried for example by lyophilization or by spraying. The extracts will then be in powder form.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for its use in dermatology, the Moringa oleifera extract obtained will be sterilized. In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the unprocessed seed protein extract deoiled from Moringa oleifera contains, on the basis of the dry extract, a protein content, in particular of native proteins, of between 0.01 and 100% by weight. weight, advantageously at least 25% by weight, in particular at least 40% by weight, more particularly at least 45% by weight.

The proteins of the protein extract according to the invention advantageously have a molecular weight of between 6500 and 13000 Da, advantageously between 7100 and 11000 Da, measured by chromatography.

In particular, the ungried seed extract of Moringa oleifera contains no alkaloid (such as, for example, spirochin), Pterygospermin, isothiocyanates (such as, for example, 4-2-L-Rhamnosyloxy benzyl). isothiocyanate) and kaempferol.

The extract according to the invention may be used in the form of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredient intended to be incorporated in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, and further comprising a suitable cosmetic or pharmaceutical vehicle.

In this case, the extract according to the invention is in another embodiment preferentially solubilized in and / or diluted in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, advantageously further comprising glycerin as in the product marketed under the name purisoft ® and in particular as described in Example 4a).

The extract according to the invention in another embodiment can be atomized on an atomization support such as maltodextrin and be in the form of a powder in particular as described in Example 4b).

Advantageously, when the ingredient is in liquid form as that described in Example 4a), the extract according to the invention is present in the ingredient in one content between 0.01 and 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the ingredient, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight.

Advantageously, when the ingredient is in solid form, in particular powder, as described in Example 4b), the extract according to the invention is present in the ingredient in a content of between 10 and 60% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the ingredient, preferably between 30 and 50% by weight.

The extract according to the invention, optionally in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, may also be in the form of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, advantageously intended for topical or oral administration, in particular by way of administration. topically, preferably cutaneous, further comprising a suitable cosmetic or pharmaceutical vehicle. The cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredient, in particular dermatological ingredient in liquid form and in particular that of Example 4a), may be used in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular a dermatological composition, preferably at a content by weight of dry matter relative to the weight total of the composition of between 0.01 and 10%, advantageously between 0.1 and 5%, in particular between 1 and 3%.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredient, in particular dermatological in solid form and in particular that of Example 4b), may be used in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, preferably at a content by weight of dry matter relative to the weight total of the composition of between 0.001 and 5%, advantageously between 0.01 and 1%. In one embodiment of the invention, the extract will be included in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition in a content of between 0.0001% and 20% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.001% and 10% by weight, advantageously between 0.01 and 5% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and / or any suitable vehicle and / or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other compounds of interest. They may in particular contain a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipient selected from surfactants, preservatives, buffering agents, blowing agents, chelating agents, biocides, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents. , stabilizing agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, solvents, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, mattifying agents, conditioners, texturizing agents, gloss agents , pigments, dyes, fragrances and sunscreens chemical or mineral, trace elements, essential oils, sweeteners, flavor modifiers. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, which are particularly suitable for oral administration and / or topical use.

Advantageously, the excipient or excipients are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters , titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate , isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoine, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, capric / caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA , a cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, cir bee, glycerides of hydrogenated palm heart oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, salted isotonic solution, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition or the extract according to the invention, optionally in the form of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredient, may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application or oral administration, in particular topical administration such as liquid forms or solids or even in the form of pressurized liquid. They may especially be formulated in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular in a pot or in a tube, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo, a milk, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a serum, a lotion, in particular in a glass or plastic bottle or in a measuring or aerosol flask, an ampoule, a liquid soap, a paste, a dermatological bread, an ointment, a mousse, an aerosol, a mask, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a stick, in particular as a stick or in powders, especially makeup. In particular, the composition is in the form of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, a mask, a stick of a patch, or makeup powders, preferably a cream or a lotion.

In the case of oral administration, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition or the extract according to the invention, optionally in the form of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredient, may be in the form of a toothpaste or a dental paste. , a mouthwash, a lotion, an aerosol, a gel, a sucking tablet, an orodispersible tablet, a chewing gum or a mucoadhesive composition.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition may furthermore comprise other active ingredients for the treatment of skin and / or mucous membranes of sensitive and sensitized skin, skin and / or mucosa, which are sensitive, reactive, fragile and / or weakened and / or have an effect on the skin. the increase and / or the protection and / or maintenance of the commensal beneficial flora in the skin and / or the mucous membranes, inducing a complementary or synergistic effect with the extract according to the invention, selected for example from

a combination of sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and sodium alginate, sold in particular in a formulation containing serine, trehalose, urea and glycerin under the name PatcH20 ™ by the applicant;

cosmetic agents intended for the care of sensitive skin such as a plant extract of Cestrum latifolium as described in application WO2009 / 112590, for example marketed under the name of Symbiocell ™ by the applicant, a butter extracted from the fruit of the tree Irvingia gabonensis marketed under the name Irwinol ™ by the applicant, an extract of Eperua falcata root marketed under the name of Eperuline ™, an N-acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Prolyl-L-Phenylalanyl-L-Phenylalaninamide peptide (INCI: acetyl tetrapeptide 15) sold under the name of Skinasensyl ™ by the applicant.

The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more other active ingredients on the cutaneous and / or mucosal microbial flora and / or active on the barrier function of the skin, in particular moisturizing and / or soothing active agents, among which an oligosaccharide obtained by marketed enzymatic synthesis. by the company So labia under the name of BioEcolia ™ or a complex of alpha-glucooligosaccharides marketed by the same company under the name Ecoskin ™, an extract of Alisma plantago-aquatica, an extract of Argania spinosa (Lipofructyl ™ Argan ), a mixture of ceramides (Sphingoceryl ™ VEG), purifying extracts of Boldo (Betapur ™), products based on inulin or fructooligosaccharides, extracts of bifidobacteria or an extract of Orthosiphon stamineus to fight against the skin greasy (MAT-XS ™ Bright), a natural honey extract marketed by the applicant under the name of Melhydran ™ for its moisturizing property, an extract of flax marketed under the name Oligolin ™ by the Applicant, a biotechnologically modified yeast extract marketed by the applicant under the name Relipidium ™, a Pueraria lobata root extract marketed under the name Inhipase ™ by the Applicant, a beta-glucan derivative from baker's yeast marketed by Mibelle under the name CM-Glucan Forte ™ and / or an extract of Mirabilis jalapa marketed under the name Pacifeel ™ by Sederma.

Advantageously, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for the treatment of sensitized, fragile and / or fragile skins and / or mucous membranes to prevent and / or treat its unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations and / or uncomfortable, especially chosen from redness, sensation of warmth or warmth or tension, tingling, tingling, tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, and / or for the increase and / or protection and / or maintenance of beneficial flora commensal in the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and / or reduce and / or delay the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of skin and / or mucosa whose commensal beneficial flora is impaired, in particular particularly for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying the secretion of sebum and its unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations such as for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying the formation of black spots and / or comedogenesis and / or the shiny appearance of the skin, and / or to maintain and / or improve the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or reduce the redness, and / or to prevent and / or treat the sensation Dec heating and / or heat of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or to prevent and / or reduce hair loss and / or hair loss and / or to prevent and / or reduce dandruff, skin and / or mucous membranes being healthy skins and / or mucous membranes of an individual who needs / wants them including the steps:

a) The identification on the individual of a sensitive, sensitized, fragile and / or fragile zone of skin and / or mucosa that it is desired to treat and / or whose unseesthetic and / or unsightly manifestations are to be prevented and / or treated; / or uncomfortable and / or uncomfortable, in particular chosen from redness, sensation of heat or heating or of tension, tingling, tingling, tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, and / or of which it is desired to increase and and / or protect and / or maintain the commensal beneficial flora in the skin and / or the mucous membranes, in particular for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and / or mucosa whose beneficial commensal flora is impaired, in particular to prevent and / or reduce and / or delay the secretion of sebum and its unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations such as for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying the formation of black spots and / or comedogenesis and / or the shiny appearance of the skin, and / or to maintain and / or improve the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or reduce the redness, and / or to prevent and / or treat the sensation of heating and / or heat of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or to prevent and / or reduce the loss of hair and / or hair and / or to prevent and / or reduce dandruff, said skin and / or mucous membranes being skin and / or / or healthy mucous membranes, and

b) The topical application to this skin zone or the oral administration of a cosmetic composition containing the ungerminated seed extract of Moringa oleifera dewaxed seed according to the invention in an amount effective for the treatment of skins and / or sensitive, sensitized, fragile and / or fragile mucous membranes for preventing and / or treating its unsightly manifestations, in particular chosen from redness, sensation of heat or heating or of tension, tingling, tingling, tightness and a mixture of these manifestations, and / or for the increase and / or protection and / or maintenance of the commensal beneficial flora in the skin and / or mucous membranes, in particular for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of the skins and / or mucous membranes whose beneficial commensal flora is impaired, in particular for preventing and / or reducing and / or retaining to reduce the secretion of sebum and its unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations such as to prevent and / or reduce and / or retard the formation of black spots and / or comedogenesis and / or the shiny appearance of the skin, and / or to maintain and / or improve the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or to reduce the redness, and / or to prevent and / or to treat the sensation of heating and / or heat of the skin and / or the mucous membranes, and / or to prevent and / or reduce hair loss and / or hair loss and / or to prevent and / or reduce dandruff, said skins and / or mucous membranes being healthy skins and / or mucous membranes.

The present invention furthermore relates to a protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled from Moringa oleifera, advantageously a protein extract of ungerminated seed delipidated, in particular a protein extract of deoiled cake, more particularly delipidated, of non-germinated seeds, more advantageously of non-germinated seed almonds, Moringa oleifera, for its use in the treatment of reactive, hyperreactive, and / or irritated skin and / or mucous membranes and / or in the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of occurrence pathologies related to skin and / or mucous membranes that are sensitive, sensitized, reactive, fragile, fragile, intolerant, hyperreactive and / or irritated, such as contact urticaria, irritative or allergic contact dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, seborrheic or atopic dermatitis, and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of inflammation and / or irritation in particular caused by Staphylococcus aureus, and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of erythema, in particular infant diaper rash and / or in the treatment of gingivitis.

The present invention also relates to a protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled from Moringa oleifera, advantageously a non-germinated delipidated seed protein extract, in particular a protein extract of deoiled cake, more particularly delipidated, of non-germinated seeds, more advantageously of almonds non-germinated seeds, Moringa oleifera, for its use in the treatment and / or prevention and / or the reduction of the occurrence of pathologies related to an alteration of the commensal flora and / or mucosal flora beneficial, advantageously involving a decrease in the content of commensal beneficial skin and / or mucosal microorganisms and / or an increase in the content of pathogenic microorganisms, preferably in pathogenic bacteria, in particular Staphylococcus aureus and / or Propionibacterium acnes, advantageously pathologies chosen from the group consisting of infections, especially bacterial, skin and / or mucous membranes, ulcers, herpes, boils, folliculitis, abscess, sycosis, impetigo, ecthyma erysipelas, acne, mycoses such as candidiasis or dermatophytosis, such as ringworm and / or scabies and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of superinfection of wounds, and / or in the prevention of age spots and / or acne scars.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pathogenic microorganism" is intended to mean a microorganism present on the skin and / or the mucous membranes in a non-permanent (transient) manner or a microorganism which normally lives on the skin but which under certain conditions may become virulent. and therefore potentially pathogenic (resident opportunistic pathogen) and inducing or capable of inducing non-pathological alterations of the skin and / or mucous membranes such as skin imperfections such as, for example, redness, dandruff and / or hair loss and / or hair, swelling or even pimples and / or a burning sensation and / or localized heat accompanied by pain, pigmentation spots or scars for example following acne and therefore an inhomogeneity of the complexion, and may be involved in real skin diseases including skin infections, such as boils, folliculitis, abscesses, ulcers, sycosis, ecthyma, erysipelas, acne or impetigo, see pathological conditions, such as fungal infections (such as candidiasis or dermatophytosis) such as scabies, ringworm and fungal infections caused by Candida albicans, malassezia, Streptococci, Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococci and especially Staphylococcus aureus Finally, the present invention relates to a method of cosmetic care characterized in that it comprises the application to at least one relevant area of the skin and / or mucous membranes of the face or body, and / or oral administration of the extract according to the present invention, optionally in the form of a cosmetic ingredient or a cosmetic composition comprising, as active agent, the extract according to the invention as defined above, for the treatment of skin and / or sensitive mucosa, sensitized, fragile and / or fragile and / or for the increase and / or protection and / or maintenance of the commensal beneficial flora in the skin and / or mucous membranes and advantageously for treating the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of skin and / or mucous membranes that are sensitive, sensitized, fragile and / or fragile, advantageously chosen from among the rednesses, the sensation of heat or warming or tense, tingling, tingling, tightness and a mixture of these manifestations and / or to prevent and / or reduce and / or delay the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of skin and / or mucous membranes the commensal beneficial flora is impaired, in particular for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying sebum secretion and its unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations such as for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying the formation of black spots and / or comedogenesis and / or the shiny appearance of the skin, and / or to maintain and / or improve the homogeneity of skin and / or mucous complexion and / or reduce redness, and / or to prevent and / or treat the sensation of heat and / or heat of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or to prevent and / or reduce hair loss and / or hair loss and / or to prevent and / or or reduce dandruff.

Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art after reading the explanatory description which refers to examples which are given only by way of illustration and which in no way limit the scope of the invention.

The examples are an integral part of the present invention and any features appearing novel from any prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, form an integral part of the invention in its function and its generality.

Thus, each example has a general scope.

On the other hand, in the examples, and unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius and the pressure is the atmospheric pressure.

Example 1 Preparation of the Moringa Extract According to the Invention

The Moringa extract is prepared according to the process described in patent EP1064008, in particular as described below:

EXAMPLE 1a (Preparation of Extract 1a)

Moringa oleifera kernels obtained after husking the seeds and containing 33.4% (weight / weight) of oil are delipidated by two successive extractions at reflux in hexane and, after filtration, the flour is dried in an oven at 40 ° C. ° C and has a residual oil content of 2.5%.

In a reactor is added 200 g of delipidated flour to 2 liters of distilled water. After stirring for 10 minutes, the pH is adjusted to 7.5 by addition of 4N NaOH and the extraction is then carried out for one hour at room temperature while maintaining the pH at 7.5. The insoluble material is removed by centrifugation for 15 minutes. at 5000 g.

The supernatant is collected and then filtered through 0.45 μm to obtain 1.77 liter of yellow filtrate, containing 4.69% of dry extract and having a protein concentration measured by the Biuret technique of 21.54. g / l (ie a protein purity on the basis of the solids content of 45.92%). The extract is spray-dried and 65.72 grams of atomisate is obtained with an estimated protein content of 54.7% (N × 6.25). Taking into account the peaks eluted between the excluded volume and the total volume of the column, the chromatographic profile resulting from the Superose 12HR column gel permeation analysis of this extract shows a major fraction which represents 52% of the surface and corresponds to molecular weights between 7 800 and 11 000 Da. The presence of shoulders in this peak confirms the existence of several compounds and the range of molecular weights is close to that found in the literature for the monomers (6,500 and 7,000 Da) and the dimers (13,000 Da) of proteins flocculants of Moringa.

EXAMPLE 1b Preparation of extract lb

300 g of delipidated flour are extracted according to example la so as to obtain a crude aqueous extract. The pH of the filtrate (2.74 liters) is adjusted to 11.8 by progressive addition of 4N NaOH. Precipitation begins at pH 8.0 (cloudiness of the solution) and after 30 minutes the solution is centrifuged for 15 min at 5000 g. The sticky precipitate is collected (43.2 g wet) and then washed twice with 500 ml of distilled water at pH 11.8. The precipitate is then dissolved in 270 ml of distilled water (ie 10% of the initial volume) and the pH of the solution is continuously adjusted to 4.5 with 6N HCl so as to allow the solubilization of the precipitate (the dispersion is facilitated by the use of a device of the type known as Turax).

After stirring for 30 minutes, the mixture is centrifuged for 15 minutes. at 5000 g to remove the insoluble material and the supernatant is filtered on Buchner equipped with a Whatman filter No. 41. This gives 260 ml of yellow and clear protein concentrate, which is dehydrated by lyophilization.

In this way, 11.5 grams of lyophilizate are obtained with a protein content of 90-95% by weight.

The Superose 12HR column gel permeation analysis of this extract shows a major fraction which represents 70% of the surface and which corresponds to molecular weights of approximately 8,800 Da. EXAMPLE 1 (Preparation of the extract the)

The almond oil obtained by peeling the seeds of Moringa oleifera is extracted by pressing on a press of the type known under the designation KOMET and the cake obtained is crushed in order to obtain a homogeneous flour.

A crude extract is prepared from 1.24 kg of cake according to the procedure described in Examples 1a and 1b.

Proteins are precipitated at pH 11.8 according to Example 1b, but an additional step of decanting overnight at + 4 ° C is introduced to allow better protein precipitation.

The precipitate is treated under the same conditions as in Example lb (the pH of the solution for reconstituting the precipitate is however 6 instead of 4.5).

The protein concentrate thus obtained (1.05 liter to 4.59% dry extract) is dehydrated by atomization and 34.6 g of atomisate are collected, ie an atomization efficiency on the basis of the dry extract of 71.5%.

The protein content based on the nitrogen assay (N x 6.25) is greater than 90% (about 95%).

EXAMPLE 1d (Preparation of the extract ldi

A crude extract is prepared from 150 g of cake according to the procedure described in Examples 1a, 1b and 1c.

After filtration over 0.45 μm, 1.35 liters of clear yellow filtrate are obtained.

100 grams of Carboxymethylcellulose (CM52, WHATMAN) are equilibrated for 30 minutes in 500 ml of distilled water at pH 7.5.

The mixture is filtered on Buchner equipped with a # 42 WHATMAN filter, then the cellulose is collected and equilibrated again in 500 ml of water at pH 7.5.

After removal of the aqueous medium by filtration, the cellulose is brought into contact, with stirring for one hour at room temperature, with the aqueous extract of almond cake Moringa oleifera. The non-adsorbed compounds (fractions whose chromatographic profile is shown in broken lines in FIG. 3) are removed by filtration on Buchner and the "charged" cellulose is then washed twice with one liter of distilled water at pH 7.5. then filtered on Büchner.

The cellulose is then contacted with 120 ml of a 60 g / l NaCl solution pH 7.5 for 30 minutes.

The proteins eluted in NaCl medium are recovered by Buchner filtration (the chromatographic profile of the proteins adsorbed on CM 52 and eluted in NaCl medium 60 g / l is shown in solid line in Figure 3).

There is thus obtained 110 ml of filtrate with a solids content of 9.63% and with a protein concentration of 64.6 g / l (ie a protein purity on the basis of the solids content of 67%).

The Superose 12HR column gel permeation analysis of this extract shows a major fraction which represents 70% of the surface and which corresponds to molecular weights of about 7,100 Da.

The solution can be desalted by dialysis, or by ultrafiltration and dehydrated by lyophilization, atomization or any other suitable means. According to Example 1d, the extract was atomized on maltodextrin support and formulated according to Example 4b) to be tested in the following examples.

Example 2 Evaluation of the Effect of the Ingredient According to the Invention on the Inhibition of the Release of Oro-inflammatory Cytokines 1L-6 and IL-8 Induced by Opportunistic Pathogenic S. aureus Bacteria

The product tested is that of Example 1d) formulated in the form of the ingredient according to Example 4b and used at 0.03% by weight relative to the total final medium (medium + product). The test is carried out on human keratinocytes HacaT in culture.

The HacaT keratinocytes are inoculated at 2 × 10 ⁶ cells / cm ² in DMEM medium (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium) supplemented with 10% S VF (Serum fetal calf). The cells are incubated for 3 to 5 days at 37 ° C. under 5% CO ₂ and 95% relative humidity. The DMEM medium is then replaced with 1mL of Eagle's Minimum Essential Medium (EMEM). The product to be tested is then added the desired concentration in EMEM medium and the whole is incubated an additional day until saturation of the cell layer.

0.1 ml of a Staphylococcus aureus bacteria solution DSMZ 20231 ATCC 12600 (1.5x10 ⁷ ) is added to each well for 2 hours at 37 ° C, 5% CO ₂ aerobically, at relative humidity saturation. Then the media with bacteria are replaced by EMEM containing the product to be tested. The whole is again incubated for 24 hours at 37 ° C. and 5% of C0 ₂ .

The IL8 and IL6 assays are performed according to the recommendations of the supplier of the ELISA kit.

Table 2.1: Evaluation of the effect of the product according to the invention on the release of cytokine IL6 induced in keratinocytes by the presence of S. aureus

Table 2.2: Evaluation of the effect of the product according to the invention on the release of cytokine ILS induced in keratinocytes by the presence of S. aureus

IL8 caused by pathogenic bacteria 5. aureus in keratinocytes in culture. This demonstrates the effect of the product to treat sensitive skin, reactive, fragile, weakened, or sensitized and its anti-inflammatory effect.

Example 3: Selective effects of the product on the growth of commensal microorganisms vis-à-vis opportunistic pathogenic microorganisms

The product of the invention has a selective action on the growth of microorganisms of the skin. The product promotes the growth of commensal microorganisms and especially the bacteria that help the skin to fight inflammation such as Staphylococcus epidermidis and Acinetobacter Iwolffii.

On the other hand, it has little effect on opportunistic pathogenic bacteria such as P. acnes responsible for inflammatory phenomena on the skin.

Example 3-a: Inhibition of the growth of opportunistic pathogenic strain of

Propionibacterium acnes

The product tested is that of Example 1d) formulated in the form of the ingredient of Example 4b) at 0.0006% and 0.006% by weight relative to the weight of the total final medium (medium and product).

The ingredients (phenonip® for the positive control or product according to the invention) are diluted in the culture medium of the bacteria (brucella broth). The media containing the ingredients are then incubated for 48 hours at 35 ° C. ± 2.5 ° C. under anaerobic conditions with a calibrated inoculum of ⁵ × 10 ⁵ P. acnes ATCC 11827. Growth is estimated by measuring the density optics at 600nm after incubation. Table 3.1: Evaluation of the effect of the product at different dosages on the growth of

Propionibacterium acnes

Example 3-b Activation of the Growth of Commensal Strains to Control S. epidermidis and / or Æ Iwolffii Inflammation

The product tested is that of Example 1d formulated in the form of an ingredient according to Example 4b) at 0.0006% and 0.006% by weight relative to the weight of the total final medium (medium and product).

For S. epidermidis (strain ATCC 14990): After preculture in enriched medium (Tryptic soy broth, TSB °), a microplate containing the appropriate culture medium is inoculated, with the bacteria at OD ₆ oo = 0.05 (~ 10 ⁷ bacteria) and incubated 24h with the product of the invention at different concentrations The growth is estimated by measuring the optical density at 600 nm after incubation Untreated control is performed as well as an inhibition control (sodium dodecyl sulftate said SDS ).

The results show that the product according to the invention promotes the growth of commensal microorganisms S. epidermidis and A. Iwolffii.

EXAMPLE 4 Cosmetic or Pharmaceutical Ingredients According to the Invention Containing the Moringa Extract According to the Invention

4a) A cosmetic or pharmaceutical liquid ingredient having the following formulation in percent by weight is prepared.

4b) A solid ingredient in powder form having the following formation is prepared: EXAMPLE 5 Composition according to the invention in the form of a lotion for the body and / or face:

The lotion is prepared by the usual methods in the field well known to those skilled in the art, by mixing the 6 phases.

EXAMPLE 6 Composition according to the invention in the form of a milk for the body and / or face

A cosmetic product in the form of milk for the body and / or face may, for example, have a weight composition, consisting of the following aqueous and fatty phases, as indicated below.

the fatty phase at 8 ° C., to bring the water of the aqueous phase also to 80 ° C. and to dissolve the preservative therein (Elestab 4112), then to pour the aqueous phase into the fatty phase with turbine stirring and to cool gradually stirring, to then add thereto, around 50 ° C, the aqueous mother solution of Moringa protein extract, then the perfume and, finally, to continue stirring until complete cooling.

EXAMPLE 7 Composition according to the invention in the form of a cream for the face

A cosmetic product in the form of a cream for the body and / or face may, for example, have a weight composition, consisting of the following aqueous and fat phases, as indicated below.

the fatty phase at 80 ° C., to bring the aqueous phase also to 80 ° C. and to dissolve Elestab 4112 therein, to separately prepare the stock solution of Moringa Oleifera protein extract, to pour the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with turbine stirring, then, at about 50 ° C, to introduce the mother solution of Moringa extract and finally continue stirring until cooling.

Claims

CLAIM

1. Cosmetic use of a protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled Moringa oleifera for the treatment of skin and / or mucous sensitive, sensitized, fragile and / or fragile to prevent and / or treat unsightly and / or unpleasant manifestations and / / or uncomfortable skin and / or sensitive mucosa, sensitized, fragile, and / or fragile, said skin and / or mucosa being skin and / or mucous healthy.

2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of the skins and / or mucous membranes that are sensitive, sensitized, fragile, and / or weakened are chosen from among the rednesses, the sensation of heat. or warm up or tension, tingling, tingling, tugging and a mixture of these manifestations.

3. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the use of the ungerminated seed protein extract de-oiled Moringa oleifera is further for the increase and / or protection and / or the maintenance of the commensal beneficial flora in the skin and / or mucous membranes.

4. Use according to claim 3 for preventing and / or reducing and / or delaying the unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations of skins and / or mucous membranes whose commensal beneficial flora is impaired, in particular for preventing and / or or reduce and / or delay the secretion of sebum and its unsightly and / or unpleasant and / or uncomfortable manifestations such as to prevent and / or reduce and / or retard the formation of black spots and / or comedogenesis and / or the shiny appearance of the skin, and / or to maintain and / or improve the homogeneity of skin tone and / or or mucous membranes and / or decrease redness, and / or to prevent and / or treat the sensation of heating and / or heat of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and / or to prevent and / or reduce the fall of hair and / or hair and / or to prevent and / or reduce dandruff.

5. Use according to any one of claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the beneficial commensal flora is a microorganism selected from the group consisting of Staphylococcus epiciermidis, Acinetobacter Iwolffii and mixtures thereof.

6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the ungroomed seed protein extract de-oiled Moringa oleifera is applied topically to specific body parts selected from the legs, feet, underarms, hands, neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, labial mucosa, face and / or the scalp, especially shaved areas, maceration areas such as infant seat, areas of plaice such as armpits, back of elbows, back of knees, buttocks, crotch , groin, neck, and / or around the lips and / or excessively cleaned areas.

7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled Moringa oleifera is a water-soluble extract, in particular obtained by extraction in a polar solvent, preferably in water .

8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the ungried seed protein extract deoiled Moringa oleifera contains on the basis of the dry extract, a protein content, in particular native proteins between 0.01 and 100% by weight, advantageously at least 25% by weight.

9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the ungried seed protein extract deoiled Moringa oleifera does not contain alkaloid, Pterygospermin, isothiocyanates nor kaempferol.

10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the ungerminated seed protein extract deoiled from Moringa oleifera is an extract of shelled seeds.

11. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the non-germinated seed extract protein deoiled Moringa oleifera is in the form of a cosmetic ingredient intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, and further comprising a suitable cosmetic vehicle.

12. Use according to claim 11, characterized in that the ungerminated seed protein extract de-oiled Moringa oleifera is present in the cosmetic ingredient in liquid form in a content of between 0.01 and 10% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the ingredient, advantageously between 1 and 5% by weight or in solid form in a content of between 10 and 60% by total weight of the ingredient, advantageously between 30 and 50% by weight.

13. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the ungerminated seed protein extract deoiled Moringa oleifera or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it is in the form of a cosmetic composition intended for topical administration further comprising a suitable cosmetic vehicle.

14. Use according to claim 13 characterized in that the protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled Moringa oleifera is present in the cosmetic composition in a content of between 0.0001% and 20% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01 and 5% by weight.

15. Use according to any one of claims 13 or 14 characterized in that the composition is in the form of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a milk, an ointment, d a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, an aerosol, a mask, a stick, a patch, or makeup powders , advantageously a cream or a lotion.

16. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the ungerminated seed protein extract deoiled Moringa oleifera or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it is in the form of a cosmetic composition intended for a oral administration, in particular to the gingival mucosa, further comprising a suitable cosmetic vehicle.

17. Moringa oleifera, non-germinated seed protein extract, for use in the treatment of reactive, hyperreactive and / or irritated skin and / or mucous membranes and / or in the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction the occurrence of pathologies related to sensitive skin and / or mucous membranes, sensitized, reactive, fragile, fragile, intolerant, hyperreactive and / or irritated, such as contact urticaria, irritative or allergic contact dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, seborrheic or atopic dermatitis, and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of inflammation and or irritation, particularly caused by Staphylococcus aureus, and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of erythema, particularly diaper rash and / or in the treatment of gingivitis.

18. Protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled Moringa oleifera for its use according to claim 17 and further for its use in the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies related to an alteration of the commensal beneficial skin and / or mucosal flora, advantageously involving a decrease in the content of commensal beneficial skin and / or mucosal microorganisms and / or an increase in the content of pathogenic microorganisms, preferably in pathogenic bacteria, in particular Staphylococcus aureus and / or Propionibacterium acn s, advantageously pathologies selected from the group consisting of infections, particularly bacterial, skin and / or mucous membranes, ulcers, herpes, boils, folliculitis, abscess, sycosis, impetigo, ecthyma erysipelas, acne, mycoses such as candidiasis or dermatophytosis, such s ringworm and / or scabies and / or in the treatment and / or prevention of superinfection of wounds, and / or in the prevention of pigment spots and / or acne scars.

19. Protein extract of non-germinated seed deoiled Moringa oleifera, for use according to any one of claims 17 or 18 characterized in that the protein extract of ungried seed deoiled Moringa oleifera is as defined in one of any of claims 1 to 10.

20. Protein extract of non-germinated seed de-oiled Moringa oleifera, for use according to any one of claims 17 to 19, characterized in that the ungerminated seed protein extract de-oiled Moringa oleifera is in the form of a pharmaceutical ingredient or a pharmaceutical composition further comprising a suitable pharmaceutical carrier.