FR3138615A1 - New cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis - Google Patents

Abstract

New cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis The present invention relates to the new cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis and/or of a composition comprising it for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of skin and/or skin. or healthy mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unsightly manifestations or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable to healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular to soothe the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce it and/or or prevent sensitivity and/or increase and/or maintain hydration, in particular to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa. The present invention also relates to the new use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis and/or a composition comprising it for the dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes having an altered skin and/or mucosal barrier.

Description

New cosmetic or dermatological use of a Gentianacrassicaulis extract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis to prevent and/or reduce one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes having a skin and/or mucosal barrier. weakened, as well as the dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes with an altered skin and/or mucosal barrier.

Sensitive skin is very common, and several epidemiological studies have shown that more than half of the population reports having sensitive skin. Sensitive skin occurs in people with normal skin, with a weakening or disruption of the skin barrier. When the skin barrier is significantly altered, real pathologies can appear such as reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic, irritated skin, or be a symptom associated with xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, ichthyosis. , including pathological peeling, for example peeling known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation or even diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

Various external stimuli or substances can be responsible for or accentuate sensitive skin, such as environmental factors (UV radiation, heat, cold or temperature change, wind, dry air, pollution), lifestyle factors (air conditioner, diet , alcohol consumption, clothing), chemicals (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, soaps, shampoos, heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH, AHA or dermatological such as vitamin A acid) or other sensitizing agents, and/or aggressive conditions including perspiration and mechanical attacks such as hair removal, shaving, rubbing and even water, particularly hard water, and/or endogenous factors such as emotions , genetic predispositions, hormonal state and stress.

More and more people report having sensitive skin, particularly due to increasing environmental pollution, climate change, and the increasing complexity of materials used in topical products or clothing.

There is therefore a need to identify solutions to combat the sensitivity of the skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. selected from sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes.

Particularly surprisingly, the Applicant has discovered that an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis has the property of preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from the skin and /or sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone mucous membranes. Very unexpectedly, this Gentiana crassicaulis extract is particularly useful for soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membranes and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes and/or reducing and/or preventing sensitivity. healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. The Applicant has in particular discovered that the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis advantageously makes it possible to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

The extract according to the invention also has the advantage of being an easily formulated ingredient, and can be easily manufactured on an industrial scale. It is an active ingredient topically acceptable for the skin and/or mucous membranes, which does not present any risk of allergy.

The Gentiana crassicaulis plant is a perennial herbaceous plant from the Qinghai province on the Tibetan plateau, also present more widely in Asia, America and Oceania. It grows in mountainous regions, wastelands, meadows, forest edges and forests at altitudes of 2100 to 4500 meters.

It is part of a group of medicinal plants, long referred to globally under the term Gentiana macrophylla commonly called Qinjiao (秦艽in Chinese) and belonging to the family Gentianaceae and the genus Gentiana (G.). Qinjiao thus designates a group of long-undissociated plants mainly containing G.macrophylla Pallas , G.straminea Maximowicz , G.dahurica Fischer and G.crassicaulis Duthie ex Burkill. The use of Qinjiao plants has been described in the Chinese Pharmacopoeia, for the treatment of rheumatism, arthralgia, apoplexy, jaundice and diabetes, in Tibetan medicine for the treatment of tonsillitis and hives. Pharmacological studies have also shown that Qinjiao plants exhibit anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, hepato-protective, cardio- and neuro-protective activities (Zhang X et al; Botany, traditional use, phytochemistry, pharmacology, quality control, and authentication of Radix Gentianae Macrophyllae-A traditional medicine: A review; Phytomedicine, 2018, 46, 142-163).

Applications have already described the use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis in cosmetics. Thus patent application CN 106137812 describes the use of an extract of Gentiana macrophylla obtained by a specific extraction process in a cosmetic composition, as active agents for inhibiting tyrosinase and elastase and as an antioxidant.

Thus, to the knowledge of the Applicant, the topical cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis as an active ingredient for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from among the skin and/or sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or manifestations discomfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes was not described. Furthermore, it was also not known that an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis was particularly useful for soothing healthy skin and/or mucous membranes and/or increasing and/or maintaining the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes and/or increase and/or maintain hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes. It was also not known that an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis was particularly useful for improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

Likewise, the use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis for the dermatological treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes having an altered skin and/or mucosal barrier, in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or skin and/or mucous membranes. or irritated was not known.

The first subject of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly manifestations. and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable for healthy skin and/or mucous membranes having a weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier. This concerns in particular healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive skin. The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of this healthy skin and/or mucous membranes are advantageously chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness and/or a mixture of these manifestations.

According to a particular embodiment, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis to soothe the skin and/or healthy mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of the skin and /or healthy mucosa and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of the skin and/or healthy mucosa and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of the skin and/or healthy mucosa, the skin and/or healthy mucosa being in particular selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive skin.

The Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention can also be used to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and/or mucous membrane. sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, for cosmetic treatment and/or or the cosmetic care of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from among the tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or warmth, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, and/or a mixture of these manifestations. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and/or mucous membrane. sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to soothe said skin and/or or healthy mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain hydration of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane and /or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to improve and/or maintain the skin barrier and/or mucosal of said healthy skin and/or mucosa.

The invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its alteration and/or linked to a sharp reduction in the hydration of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane being in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathologies being for example the xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, including pathological scaling, for example peeling known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema. The invention further relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce alterations of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and /or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably, the pathological skin and/or mucosa is skin and/or mucosa devoid of inflammation.

According to a particular mode, the invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use to reduce and/or prevent irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane linked to an alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, the pathological skin and/or mucosa being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic, irritated skin and/or mucosa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cosmetic use” means a non-pharmaceutical use, that is to say which is not intended for therapeutic use nor for the prevention and/or treatment of skin and/or skin. or mucous membranes qualified as pathological by a specialist in the field, such as a dermatologist but is intended for and/or applied to a so-called healthy part of the body, in particular to an area of so-called healthy skin and/or mucous membrane.

By “skin” is meant any area of skin on any part of the body and/or face, including the scalp, advantageously the face.

According to the invention, the term “mucous membrane(s)” means the nasal mucosa, the ocular mucosa, the vaginal mucosa, the urogenital mucosa, the anal mucosa, the oral, labial and/or gingival mucosa, preferably the ocular mucous membranes. and/or oral and/or labial and/or nasal.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “healthy skin and/or mucous membrane” means an area of skin and/or mucous membrane to which the extract or composition according to the invention is applied and called “non-pathological” by a dermatologist, that is to say not presenting pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or to the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the skin barrier and/or mucosa of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or an increase in its alteration and/or linked to a sharp reduction in the hydration of the skin and/or pathological mucosa, infection, scar, disease, inflammation or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, xerosis, rosacea, irritation, ichthyosis, in particular pathological scaling, for example peeling known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, acne or dermatitis, in particular dermatitis atopic, or urticaria, in particular contact, or wounds or injuries or ulceration, or burns and/or other dermatoses or alterations of the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or accompanying pathological mucosa certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably, the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane is non-inflamed and/or non-inflammatory. It is therefore not a question of reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membranes.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, healthy skin and/or mucosa is characterized in that it has a weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier. However, advantageously this barrier is not altered.

The term “sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes” means skin and/or mucous membranes which are characterized by sensory perceptions in response to stimuli and will be characterized by one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations. The sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane can thus be estimated by the subject himself with subjective skin sensations or by the dermatologist with objective skin reactions. These are skins and/or mucous membranes which, by nature, have very little tolerance for aggressive agents/aggressive conditions.

External stimuli or substances which induce or aggravate unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and/or sensitive mucous membranes are for example environmental/climatic factors (UV radiation, heat, cold or temperature change, wind, dry air, pollution), lifestyle factors (air conditioning, diet, alcohol consumption, clothing), chemicals (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, soaps, shampoos, heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH, AHA or dermatological such as vitamin A acid), or other sensitizing agents, aggressive conditions including perspiration and mechanical attacks such as hair removal, shaving, rubbing and even l particularly hard water and/or other endogenous factors such as emotions, genetic predispositions, hormonal state (e.g. menstruation) and stress. Sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes are not pathological skin and/or mucous membranes unlike allergic skin.

The sensitivity of the skin and/or mucous membranes is multifactorial but generally results in a weakening of the barrier function. Normally, the stratum corneum forms a barrier maintaining water content and preventing the penetration of harmful chemicals and microorganisms. In the event of a weakening of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, substances and/or microorganisms can penetrate and cause unsightly, unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations, typical of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes. This weakening is generally accompanied by an increase in imperceptible water losses. It is therefore also important to maintain the barrier function of the stratum corneum to maintain the water content of the skin and thus avoid skin dryness and the vicious cycle of skin sensitivity.

The skin and/or mucous membrane can nevertheless react to aggressive agents and/or conditions with unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations. Unsightly and uncomfortable manifestations can be generalized throughout the body, but most of the time they can have well-defined locations such as the scalp, face, skin folds, buttocks in infants, etc. These may therefore be areas of sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes.

For the purposes of the present invention, “cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes” means preventing and/or reducing and/or eliminating the perception of unsightly and/or unpleasant manifestations and /or uncomfortable for healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive skin.

The term “unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations” means subjective unpleasant sensations of skin discomfort such as tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, in response to stimuli that do not normally produce such manifestations, preferably tingling, dryness, a feeling of heat or warming, tension, tingling or tightness.

These manifestations are not linked to inflammation.

The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations are those of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry skin and/or mucous membranes with an atopic tendency.

“Sensitized skin and/or mucous membranes” means healthy skin and/or mucous membranes that are temporarily sensitive and therefore not pathological as such, and whose barrier function is weakened.

By “fragile or weakened skin and/or mucous membrane (that is to say made temporarily fragile)” we mean healthy skin and/or mucous membrane whose barrier function is weakened. This state may be linked to the condition of the individual, and/or linked to age, the elderly and infants having fragile skin for example. This state can also result from chemical or physical attack (abrasion, friction, cuts).

The term “dry skin and/or mucosa” means skin and/or mucosa marked by tightness throughout the face and body caused by a weakening of the skin and/or mucosal barrier. Fine, with tight texture and redness, the skin and/or mucous membrane is lacking in water and lipids and needs to be hydrated.

The term "atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membrane" means healthy skin and/or mucous membrane that is extremely fragile and/or weakened, whose permeability is increased due to the weakened barrier function and which is genetically predisposed to evolve under the effect multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors towards a pathological state which is atopic dermatitis. Thus, the character “skin and/or mucosa with atopic tendency” can be estimated by the subject himself with subjective cutaneous and/or mucosal sensations or by the dermatologist with objective cutaneous and/or mucosal reactions.

The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of sensitized, fragile and/or weakened, dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucous membranes are the same as for sensitive skin and/or mucous membranes, without these manifestations and /or skin and/or mucous membrane conditions do not relate to the prevention and/or treatment of a pathology.

The unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes can be generalized to the entire body and/or the face and/or the scalp, but most of the time they can have well-defined locations. defined such as for example the face including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, the T zone (forehead, nose and chin), the external ear canal, the chin, and/or the scalp, as well as the legs , feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes such as for example the labial, oral, ocular or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to polluting agents and/or sensitizing agents such as makeup or soap, such as the eye contour, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, such as for example the cheeks, neckline, hands and/or shaved areas and/or areas of maceration such as the infant's seat, crease areas such as armpits, backs of elbows, backs of knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and/or excessively cleaned areas.

The term “weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier” means a temporary or constitutional imbalance in the barrier function expressed by a reduction in homeostasis, without being linked to, caused by or responsible for pathology. This reduction in barrier function can promote dehydration through an increase in transient water losses (TEWL), and exposes you to a risk of penetration of undesirable agents. This state of weakened barrier may be linked to the condition of the individual, and/or linked to age, the elderly and infants thus having a weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier for example. This state can also result from chemical or physical attack (abrasion, friction, cuts).

The term “soothe the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane” means preventing and/or reducing one or more of the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane by an action to strengthen the skin barrier and/or or weakened mucosa of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

The term "increase and/or maintain the comfort of the skin and/or healthy mucosa" means to promote and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of the skin and/or healthy mucosa, in particular by an action to improve and/or maintain the hydration of the skin and/or healthy mucous membrane. or maintain and/or strengthen the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa.

By “reducing and/or preventing the sensitivity of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane” is meant improving and/or maintaining the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa to thus prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or atopic-prone skin.

The term "preventing and/or reducing one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes" means preventing and/or reducing and/or making unpleasant skin sensations and/or perceptions disappear and/or or mucosal, subjective or real and/or the visibility of unsightly and/or uncomfortable and/or undesirable manifestations such as tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness , redness, preferably tingling, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling or tightness.

The term "increase and/or maintain hydration" means increasing and/or maintaining the water content in the stratum corneum, including after the reduction thereof induced by the use of a surfactant, in particular the SLS, in particular through an action on the skin barrier.

The measurement of the hydration of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane can be studied by measurement techniques known to those skilled in the art, in particular can for example be carried out in vivo , by Corneometer. This in vivo measurement method consists of measuring the variation of the dielectric constant. Water is the substance with the highest dielectric constant on skin. When the water content changes, the skin capacity value also changes, so the water content of the skin surface can be analyzed by measuring the skin capacity value.

Advantageously, the measurement of the increase in hydration is carried out on a population of men or women having itching and/or tightness and/or sensations of heat in the face, preferably by application of a formulation containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis prepared according to Example 1.a, under the conditions described in Example 2, by similarity, that is to say apart from irritation created by the occlusive patch.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention is in an effective quantity to increase and/or maintain the hydration of the skin and/or healthy mucous membrane, when the extract, in particular under form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, increases by at least 50%, preferably by at least 60%, the level of skin hydration after dehydration induced by the SLS patch, from 4 hours of application of the extract according to the invention, in particular in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, in relation to the level of skin hydration detected before application.

The term "improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier" means reinforcing and/or maintaining the function of the skin and/or mucosal barrier by an action to reduce and/or reduce insensible water losses (or also called transepidermal water loss), and/or accelerate and/or improve the strengthening of the skin and/or mucosal barrier after its weakening due to the action of a surfactant.

The measurement of the imperceptible loss of water can be studied by measurement techniques known to those skilled in the art, in particular can for example be carried out in vivo , by Tewameter. This in vivo measurement method consists of measuring the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the loss of water dispersion of the stratum corneum near the epidermis (within a radius of approximately 1 cm), and the The amount of water evaporated through the epidermis is measured directly to determine water loss from the skin surface. A lower value represents lower transepidermal water loss and therefore better skin barrier function.

Advantageously, the measurement of the reduction in imperceptible water losses is carried out on a population of men or women having itching and/or tightness and/or sensations of heat in the face, preferably by application of a formulation containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis prepared according to Example 1.a, under the conditions described in Example 2, by similarity, that is to say apart from irritation created by the occlusive patch.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention is in an effective quantity to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa, when the extract, in particular in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, reduces the TEWL of the surface of the skin induced by the SLS patch by at least 10%, preferably by at least 14%, from 4 hours of application of the extract according to the invention, in particular in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, in relation to the TEWL detected before application.

The Gentiana crassicaulis extract can be any part of the plant, such as the roots and/or aerial parts including leaves, flowers and/or stem. Advantageously, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is a root extract.

According to one embodiment, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is an extract which contains loganic acid and/or one or more of its derivatives. Preferably the Gentiana crassicaulis extract has a loganic acid content equal to or greater than 0.1% (w/w), more preferably equal to or greater than 0.5% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter. of the extract.

The term “loganic acid” means an iridoid glycoside, of formula C ₁₆ H ₂₄ O ₁₀ .

The term “loganic acid derivatives” means a salt, a carboxylate, an acid chloride, an acid anhydride, an ester, an amide obtained from loganic acid.

The extract according to the present invention is obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art chosen from hot decoction, maceration, extrusion, extraction under subcritical conditions, extraction assisted by ultrasound , with or without grinding such as ultrasonic grinding or using a blender. Advantageously, the extract is obtained by maceration and more advantageously by maceration with stirring.

“Extraction in subcritical conditions” means extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature greater than 100°C and pressure less than or equal to 22.1 MPa (221 bars), such that the water remains at liquid state but has a lower viscosity and surface tension than water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.

The extraction may be carried out from dry or fresh plant material, advantageously dry, in quantities of 1% to 90% by weight, advantageously from 5% to 50%, very advantageously from 10% to 25%, by weight of material. plant relative to the total weight of the plant material and the extraction solvent.

The extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 300°C, including ambient temperature, that is to say a temperature of approximately 20°C. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 150°C, preferably from 20°C to 80°C.

The extraction can be carried out during a period of a few seconds to 24 hours, preferably from 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably during a period of 5 minutes to 5 hours, more preferably during a period ranging from 0.5 hour to 3 hours .

The extraction can be repeated as many times as necessary with conditions identical or different from the first extraction, preferably the extraction is renewed once, under the same conditions as the first extraction.

The solvent may be chosen from water, or a mixture of solvents, preferably a protic polar solvent. It is advantageously chosen from water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water/alcohol, water/glycol or water/polyol mixture (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and/or butylene glycol and/or or other glycols such as xylitol and/or propanediol, etc.) from 99/1 to 1/99 (w/w), preferably it is the mixture of water/alcohol solvents, more preferably water/ethanol, advantageously it is This is pure ethanol as the sole solvent, i.e. containing at least 95% ethanol (v/v).

In particular, the extract is obtained by hydro-alcoholic extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “extract obtained by hydro-alcoholic extraction” means any extract obtained by extraction with an alcoholic solution, preferably ethanolic, containing more than 20% by weight, advantageously at least 30% by weight of alcohol. , preferably ethanol relative to the total weight of the solution.

According to a preferred method, the extract is obtained by maceration in a mixture of water/ethanol solvents.

According to an even more preferential method, the extract is obtained by maceration in pure ethanol as the sole solvent, that is to say containing at least 95% ethanol (v/v).

According to a preferred mode, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is used alone, in particular in the form of active ingredient. Said extract according to the invention can be in dry form, that is to say in powder form. Advantageously, it will be obtained according to the protocol as described for example in example 1.b.

According to another preferred mode, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is found in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, that is to say in powder form, advantageously in association with maltodextrin, preferably with a content of extract from 1% to 99% (w/w) by weight, more preferably with an extract content of 5% to 60% (w/w) by weight, advantageously from 20% to 60% (w/w) by weight and even more advantageously from 30% to 50% (w/w) by weight of extract relative to the total weight of powder, which includes both the extract and the maltodextrin. Advantageously, it will be obtained according to the protocol as described for example in example 1.a.

According to a preferred alternative mode, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention can be found in the form of an active ingredient in liquid form and/or diluted in a solvent preferably in an extract content of 0.1% to 99%. % (w/w), more preferably in an extract content of 0.1% to 50% (w/w), advantageously in an extract content of 0.1% to 20% (w/w) and even more advantageously in an extract content of 1% to 10% (w/w) relative to the total weight of liquid comprising the extract and the solvent. Preferably, this solvent contains less than 50% (w/w) of water, still preferably less than 40% (w/w) of water. Very preferably, this solvent is hydro-glycolic or hydro-glyceric. Advantageously, it will be obtained according to the protocol as described for example in example 1.c and/or 1.d.

According to the invention, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention can be used alone, in the form of active ingredient and/or in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition.

In another advantageous embodiment, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention is intended for or can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for topical administration to the skin and /or healthy mucous membrane.

Thus, advantageously the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to healthy skin and/or mucous membranes.

Alternatively, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used for topical application.

The term “cosmetic ingredient” means one or more plant extracts and/or one or more natural or synthetic molecules and/or their mixtures intended for cosmetic application. Cosmetic ingredients are defined in particular by the international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (INCI).

The term “cosmetic composition” means a non-therapeutic composition, that is to say which is not intended for therapeutic use nor for the prevention and/or treatment of skin and/or mucous membranes qualified as pathological by a specialist in the field, such as a dermatologist but which is intended for and/or applied topically to a so-called healthy part of the body, in particular to a so-called healthy area of the skin and/or mucous membrane, further comprising at least a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "topical route" means the direct local application and/or vaporization of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or of the composition comprising it according to the invention on the surface of the area of the skin and/or mucous membrane to be treated. Thus, the composition can be applied topically to all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp, in particular human, preferably on specific parts of the body chosen from the face (including the forehead, cheeks , nose, temples, T zone (forehead, nose and chin), external ear canal, chin), and/or scalp, as well as legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs , stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes such as the labial, oral, ocular or nasal mucosa , areas exposed to polluting agents and/or sensitizing agents such as makeup or soap, such as for example the eye contour, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, such as the cheeks, neckline, hands and/or shaved areas and/or maceration areas such as the infant's seat, fold areas such as the armpits, the back of the elbows , back of knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and/or excessively cleaned areas.

According to one embodiment, the use of the extract according to the present invention and/or of a composition comprising it is a topical use, on all or part of the body and/or the face and/or the scalp. , in particular human, preferably on specific parts of the body chosen from the face (including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, the T zone (forehead, nose and chin), the external ear canal, the chin), and/or scalp, as well as legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks, waist , the crotch, the groin, the mucous membranes such as the labial, oral, ocular or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to polluting agents and/or sensitizing agents such as makeup or soap, such as for example eye contour, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, such as for example the cheeks, neckline, hands and/or shaved areas and/or areas maceration such as the infant's seat, fold areas such as the armpits, back of the elbows, back of the knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and/or areas excessively cleaned.

Advantageously, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract or the composition comprising it according to the invention is intended to be applied topically to specific parts of the body chosen from the skin of the face, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, the temples, the T zone (forehead, nose and chin), the external ear canal, the chin, and/or the scalp and/or the neck and/or the décolleté.

The cosmetic composition or the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention, optionally in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used for topical application or oral administration, in particular topical such as liquid or solid forms. or even in the form of a liquid under pressure. They may in particular be formulated in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular in a pot or tube, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo, a milk, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a serum, a lotion, in particular in a glass or plastic bottle or in a measuring bottle or in an aerosol, an ampoule, a liquid soap, a paste, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a foam, an aerosol, a mask, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a stick, particularly in stick or powder form , especially makeup. In particular, the composition is in the form of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a foam, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, an aerosol, a mask, a stick, a patch, or makeup powders, advantageously a cream or a lotion.

In an advantageous embodiment, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration of between 1x10 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between 1x10 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between 1x10 ^-3 % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) by weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable excipient” means a topically acceptable compound and/or solvent, that is to say one which does not induce an allergic response upon contact with the skin and/or mucous membrane, including human scalp, non-toxic, non-unstable, non-incompatible, chemically.

The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and/or any suitable vehicle and/or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other compounds of interest.

Therefore, for these compositions, the excipient contains for example at least one compound chosen from the group comprising preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers , antioxidants, texturing agents, shine agents, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, perfumes and sun filters. These excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, stabilizers based on sucrose, vitamins E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, plant esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates, Jojoba oil and its derivatives derivatives, lipo/water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, capric/caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral waxes and oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax , hydrogenated palm heart oil glycerides, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, carbon dioxide titanium, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, isotonic saline solution, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly advantageously, the extract according to the invention is used sequentially or concomitantly with sodium lauryl sulfate, in particular in cosmetic or detergent compositions containing it. This has the advantage of reducing the harmful effects on the skin and/or mucosal barrier.

Many cosmetically active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art to improve the health and/or physical appearance of the skin (including the scalp) and/or mucous membranes. Those skilled in the art know how to formulate cosmetic, nutraceutical or dermatological compositions to obtain the best effects. On the other hand, these compounds can have a synergistic effect when combined with each other. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, 2016 Edition) describes different cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, which are particularly suitable for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes such as perfumes, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, etc. (for example: clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate), anti-acne agents, anti-flocculating agents, anti-foaming agents, antimicrobial agents (for example: iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, additives, biocidal agents, denaturants, thickeners, and vitamins, and derivatives or equivalents thereof, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, depigmenting or lightening agents (for example: hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (for example: humectants).

The cosmetic composition may also comprise other cosmetic and/or dermatological agents having the same properties and inducing a synergistic effect or not with the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention, or cosmetic agents with complementary effects.

The cosmetic composition may also include other active ingredients in the treatment of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes inducing a complementary or synergistic effect with the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention, chosen for example from:
- a combination of sodium hyaluronate, pullulan and sodium alginate notably marketed in a formulation containing serine, trehalose, urea and glycerin under the name PatcH2O™ by the applicant;
- cosmetic agents intended for the care of sensitive skin such as a plant extract of Cestrum latifolium marketed under the name Symbiocell™ by the applicant, a butter extracted from the fruit of the Irvingia gabonensis tree marketed under the name Irwinol™ by the applicant , an extract of Eperua falcata root marketed under the name Eperuline™, a peptide N-acetyl-L-Tyrosyl-L-Prolyl-L-Phenylalanyl-L- Phenylalaninamide (INCI: acetyl tetrapeptide 15) marketed under the name Skinasensyl™ by the applicant.

The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more other ingredients active on the skin and/or mucosal microbial flora and/or active on the barrier function of the skin, in particular moisturizing and/or soothing active ingredients, including an oligosaccharide obtained by enzymatic synthesis. marketed by the company Solabia under the name BioEcolia™ or a complex of alpha-gluco-oligosaccharides marketed by the same company under the name Ecoskin™, an extract of Alisma plantago-aquatica , an extract of Argania spinosa (Lipofructyl ™ Argan), a mixture of ceramides (Sphingoceryl™ VEG), purifying extracts of Boldo (Betapur™), products based on inulin or fructo-oligosaccharides, extracts of bifidobacteria or even an extract of Orthosiphon stamineus for combat oily skin (MAT-XS™ Bright), a natural extract of honey marketed by the applicant under the name Melhydran™ for its moisturizing property, a flax extract marketed under the name Oligolin™ by the applicant, an extract of yeast modified by biotechnology and marketed by the applicant under the name Relipidium™, a root extract of Pueraria lobata marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the applicant, an extract of bark of Nephelium lappaceum marketed under the name Nephydrat ^TM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions, a beta-glucan derivative from baker's yeast marketed by Mibelle under the name CM-Glucan Forte™ and/or an extract of Mirabilis jalapa marketed under the name Pacifeel™ by Sederma.

Among other active ingredients which may be combined with the strain according to the invention, it may be a plant extract having properties of preventing the appearance of pigmentation and/or increasing radiance. complexion, in particular an extract of the mushroom Inonotus obliquus marketed under the name Inolixir ^TM by the applicant, an extract of Argania spinosa oil marketed under the name Arganyl™ by the applicant, an extract of Moringa oleifera seeds marketed under the name of Purisoft™ by the applicant, a combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacinamide marketed under the name of CollRepair™ by the applicant, an extract of Achillea millefolium marketed under the name of Neurobiox™ by the applicant, a Cassia alata leaf extract sold under the name DN-Age™ and/or a lychee extract sold under the name Litchiderm™ as anti-oxidant active ingredients, a chicory extract sold under the name Lox -Age™, a yeast extract marketed under the name Vitacell™, an extract of Polygonum bistorta marketed under the name Perlaura™, a galangal extract marketed under the name Hyalufix™, a corn extract marketed under the name name of Deliner™ or an extract of Voandzeia subterranea marketed under the name of Epigenist™ by the applicant or even active ingredients promoting skin firmness such as a synthetic tetrapeptide marketed under the name of Dermican™, an extract of Hibiscus abelmoschus marketed under the name Linefactor™, a purified extract of pea marketed under the name Proteasyl™, an extract of Manilkara multinervis marketed under the name Elestan™ by the applicant. An extract of the Origanum majorana plant marketed under the name Dermagenist™ and/or an extract of Khaya senegalensis marketed under the name Collalift®18 or an extract comprising phytosterols, in particular beta-sitosterol and/or campesterol and/ or brassicasterol from rapeseed oil and marketed by the applicant under the name Phytosoothe™, may also be added to the cosmetic composition.

They may also include anti-aging active ingredients and/or tightening agents for a synergistic effect with Gentiana crassicaulis extract. Advantageously, these are active ingredients increasing the gene and/or protein expression of collagen or active ingredients preventing the degradation of collagen such as retinol, vitamin C, an extract of Davilla rugosa marketed under the name Collguard ^TM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions, a Hibiscus abelmoschus seed extract marketed under the name Linefactor ^TM , a soy protein hydrolyzate extract marketed under the name Phytokine ^TM , a peptide marketed under the name Dermican ^TM by the applicant or the products marketed under the names Matrixyl ^TM , Matrixyl 3000 ^TM and Regestril ^TM by the company Sederma or Neuroguard by the company Codif, or even Eternaline ^TM by the company Silab.

These may for example be depigmenting and/or lightening ingredients and/or intended to reduce pigment spots on the skin, such as niacinamide or vitamin B3, arbutin, azelaic acid, ascorbic acid or its derivatives, a combination of plant extracts Saxifraga sarmentosa , Psidium guajava and Carica papaya , marketed by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France under the name Dermawhite™ WF, a combination of sulphites and extracts of Camellia sinensis, Scutellaria baicalensis, Cucumis sativus , Pyrus malus , marketed under the name Phytolight ^TM BG, a standardized extract of Lansium domesticum leaves marketed under the name DN-Aura ^TM , a combination of a pea extract and sucrose dilaurate marketed under the name Actiwhite™, derivatives of 4-hydroxyphenoxy acetic acid, in particular 2-(4-hydroxyphenoxy)-propionic acid marketed under the name Radianskin™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France, or an extract of purified polysaccharides from Cassia seeds angustifolia sold under the name Hyalurosmooth ^TM , an extract of stabilized proteases isolated from Carica papaya latex sold under the name X-Pressin ^TM , a cationic liposome encapsulating ferulic acid sold under the name Cytovector ferulic ^TM , or even a complex of glycolic acid and L-arginine marketed under the name AH-care ^TM by BASF Beauty Care Solutions France.

The tensing agents which can be used in the invention can be chosen from synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latexes or acrylic latexes, polymers of natural origin, in particular polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulose polymers and pectins; plant proteins and protein hydrolysates; mixed silicates; wax microparticles; colloidal particles of inorganic filler chosen for example from silica, silica-alumina composites; as well as their mixtures.

Finally, it may be cosmetic ingredients such as for example antimicrobial agents, anti-radical agents, soothing, calming or relaxing agents, agents acting on microcirculation to improve the radiance of the complexion, in particular of the face, healing agents or slimming agents. Advantageously, the cosmetic and/or dermatological composition of the present invention also contains one or more tensing agents and/or one or more antimicrobial agents and/or one or more anti-radical agents and/or one or more soothing agents and/or one or more agents. slimming agents and/or one or more agents active on the microcirculation.

Among the antimicrobial agents associated with the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, mention may be made of 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4, 4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole , clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, l phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosines and their mixtures.

Anti-free radical agents can be vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, in particular green tea extracts; anthocyanins; phenol acids, stilbenes; active scavengers of mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds, tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and/or active scavengers of heavy metals such as EDTA, anti-radical active ingredients such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone.

As soothing agents included in the composition of the invention, pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salts of salicylic acid can be used. and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, Allantoin, unsaturated omega 3 oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone, anti-inflammatory active ingredients, and in particular those described in the application FR2847267, in particular the root extract of Pueraria lobata marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the applicant, the extracts of Theobroma cacao .

The active ingredients acting on microcirculation, vasoprotectors or vasodilators, can be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinates and essential oils.

The slimming active ingredients can be chosen in particular from lipoprotein lipase inhibitor agents such as those described in patent US2003086949 (Coletica) and in particular an extract of Peruvian liana ( Uncaria tomentosa ); draining active ingredients, notably hesperitin laurate (Flavagrum™), or quercitin caprylate (Flavenger™); agents inhibiting the enzyme phosphodiestarase, activating agents of adenylate cyclase, cAMP and/or active ingredients capable of trapping spermine and/or spermidine. We can cite an extract of Coleus Forskohlii root, an extract of Cecropia obtusa , Uva lactuca , caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and/or their derivatives, a hydrolyzed kappa carrageenan product called Slimexcess™ marketed by the applicant and/or their mixtures.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as moisturizing active ingredients, anti-aging active ingredients, anti-radical active ingredients, active ingredients for sensitive skin, active ingredients improving the skin barrier, active ingredients improving the comfort of the skin, active ingredients reducing redness and irritation, active ingredients for oily skin, active ingredients improving the radiance of the skin, active ingredients reducing pigment spots, active ingredients improving exfoliation of the skin, active ingredients for acne-prone skin.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and/or mucous membrane. sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, for cosmetic treatment and/or or the cosmetic care of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from among the tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or warmth, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, and/or a mixture of these manifestations. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and/or mucous membrane. sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to soothe said skin and/or or healthy mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain hydration of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically, to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular selected from the skin and/or mucous membrane. sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of said healthy skin and/or mucosa.

Advantageously, the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, is used in regular topical application and preferably at least once a day, advantageously twice a day and /or for at least 1 day, preferably for at least 5 days, more preferably for at least 21 days and advantageously for less than 28 days.

Advantageously, the topical application of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, is carried out on the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane of all or part of the body and/or the face and/or scalp, in particular human, preferably on specific parts of the body chosen from the face (including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, the T zone (forehead, nose and chin), the duct external hearing, chin), and/or scalp, as well as legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes such as the labial, oral, ocular or nasal mucosa, areas exposed to polluting agents and/or sensitizing agents such as makeup or soap, such as the eye contour, around the lips, areas exposed to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, such as the cheeks, neckline, hands and/or even the shaved areas and/or maceration areas such as the infant's seat, fold areas such as the armpits, back of elbows, back of knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck , and/or excessively cleaned areas.

In an advantageous embodiment of the cosmetic process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention at a concentration of 1x10 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between 1x10 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between 1x10 ^-3 % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) by weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

In an advantageous embodiment the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from tingling, itching , dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, and/or a mixture of these manifestations, in particular to soothe the skin and/or healthy mucous membrane and/or increase and/or or maintain the comfort of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, preferably to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier, the healthy skin and/or mucosa being chosen from sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucosa, in particular sensitive skin, advantageously includes the following steps:
- The identification on the individual of an area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane chosen from an area of sensitive, sensitized, fragile, weakened, dry and/or atopic-prone skin and/or mucosa, in particular an area of sensitive skin, for which we wish to prevent and/or reduce one or more of its unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations, in particular which we wish to soothe and/or increase and/or maintain comfort and/or reduce. and/or prevent sensitivity and/or increase and/or maintain hydration, and/or improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier, and
- Topical application to this area of skin and/or mucous membrane, of the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, in an effective quantity to prevent and/or reduce one or more of its unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations, preferably chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or heating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness, and/or a mixture of these manifestations, in particular to soothe and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of said area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent sensitivity and/or increase and/or maintain hydration and /or improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier, in particular in a content of Gentiana crassicaulis extract in the composition advantageously between 1x10 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between 1x10 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between 1x10 ^-3 % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) by weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or the increase in its alteration and/or linked to a sharp reduction in the hydration of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane being in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathologies being for example the xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological scaling, for example scaling known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema and/or to treat and/or prevent and /or reduce the occurrence of alterations in the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably, the pathological skin and/or mucosa is skin and/or mucosa devoid of inflammation.

According to a particular mode, the invention also relates to an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use to reduce and/or prevent irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane linked to an alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, the pathological skin and/or mucosa being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and irritated skin and/or mucosa.

In particular the extract is an extract according to the invention more particularly as described and/or defined above in the present description.

According to one embodiment, the extract according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological composition comprising at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.

In one embodiment of the invention, said dermatological composition is applied topically.

According to one embodiment, the dermatological composition is characterized in that the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is present in said composition at a content of between 1x10 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, preferably between 1x10 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between 1x10 ^-3 % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w) by weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “reactive skin and/or mucous membrane” means a type of sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane, otherwise called intolerant or allergic or atopic or irritated and characterized as skin and/or mucous membrane whose tolerance threshold has decreased, following an alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, and which reacts excessively.

The term “alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier” means a temporary or permanent abnormality of the skin and/or mucosal barrier induced by and/or accompanying and/or responsible for a pathology, particularly cutaneous. This alteration of the skin barrier may exist or manifest itself in a population having this pathology and/or predisposed to it. This pathology is chosen in particular from xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example desquamation known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema, but also chosen from a pathology such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dermatological composition" means a therapeutic composition aimed at treating and/or preventing and/or reducing the occurrence of pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane and/or to the increase in its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or to the increase in its alteration, and/or linked to a strong decrease in hydration of the skin and/or pathological mucosa, the pathological skin and/or mucosa being in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucosa, the pathologies being for example xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example desquamation known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema and/or to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence alterations of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Preferably the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane is skin and/or mucous membrane devoid of inflammation.

The term “reduce and/or prevent irritation of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane” means to reduce and/or reduce the extent of the irritation of irritated skin and/or mucous membrane, in particular the measurement of the reduction in losses. insensitive to water, measuring the concentration of red blood cells by cell viability imaging and/or measuring the increase in hydration on irritated skin and/or mucous membrane.

The measurement of irritation can be studied by measuring the concentration of red blood cells using cell viability imaging (TiVi). This TiVi method which uses a polarization spectroscopy camera, analyzes images taken with the polarized lens and uses the characteristics of red blood cells in blood vessels to absorb green light. It can draw aggregate images of local red blood cells at an average depth of about 0.5mm under the skin to obtain the status of skin blood microcirculation. Skin damage caused by chemical exposure can be studied by this technical device.

Advantageously, the measurement of the reduction in irritation is carried out on a population of men and women having irritated skin and/or mucous membranes on the face, preferably due to the application of an occlusive patch containing SLS. inducing skin irritation, under the conditions described in Example 2, the reduction being measured by comparison with the initial value and after application of a formulation containing the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis prepared according to Example 1.a.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention is in an effective quantity to reduce and/or prevent irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucous membrane, when the extract, in particular under form of a dermatological composition according to the invention, reduces by at least 5%, preferably by at least 9%, the concentration of red blood cells after the irritation induced by the SLS patch, from 4 hours of application of the extract according to the invention in particular in the form of a dermatological composition according to the invention, relative to the concentration of red blood cells detected before application.

The invention will be better understood on reading the description of the examples which follow.

Examples referring to the description of the invention are presented below. These examples are given for illustration purposes and in no way limit the scope of the invention. Each of the examples has a general scope.

The examples form an integral part of the present invention and any characteristic appearing new compared to any state of the prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention.

On the other hand, in the examples, all percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated.

Examples

Example 1a: Preparation of the extract Gentiana crassicaulis (powder with maltodextrin) according to the invention

Dried roots of Gentiana crassicaulis were ground and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was done with a 25:75 (w/w) water:ethanol mixture and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The liquid extract obtained was mixed with maltodextrin at a ratio of 40% dry extract to 60% maltodextrin (% w/w). Everything was then freeze-dried to obtain a yellow powder. The product obtained is characterized by a water content ≤ 8.0% (w/w), a loganic acid content ≥ 0.2% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract, determined by HPLC.

Example 1b: Preparation of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis (powder without adjuvant) according to the invention

Dried roots of Gentiana crassicaulis were ground and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution was done with a 25:75 (w/w) water:ethanol mixture and the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The liquid obtained was then freeze-dried to obtain a yellow powder. The product obtained is characterized by a water content ≤ 8.0% (w/w), and a loganic acid content ≥ 0.5% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract, determined by HPLC.

Example 1c: Preparation of the extract Gentiana crassicaulis (liquid) according to the invention mixed with glycols

Dried roots of Gentiana crassicaulis were ground and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. The elution was done with a water:ethanol mixture 25:75 (w/w) then the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. This extract was then mixed with stirring in butylene glycol to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid is characterized by 5% dry matter (% weight/weight) extracted from the roots and by a loganic acid content ≥ 0.3% (weight/weight) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract, determined by HPLC.

Example 1d: Preparation of the extract Gentiana crassicaulis (liquid) according to the invention mixed with glycerin

Dried roots of Gentiana crassicaulis were ground and extracted in 100% pure ethanol, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. The elution was done with a water:ethanol mixture 25:75 (w/w) then the eluate was concentrated in a vacuum evaporator to remove the ethanol. This extract was then mixed with stirring in glycerin to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid is characterized by 1% dry matter (w/w) extracted from the roots and by a loganic acid content ≥ 0.025% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter in the extract, determined by HPLC.

Example 2: Clinical evaluation of the effect of the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to the invention on the improvement of the skin barrier, the hydration of sensitive skin made pathological (irritated) in a model and on the reduction of the irritation thus induced.

The clinical evaluation was carried out in a double-blind manner, in a randomized manner, on the forearms of 31 Asian female volunteers, aged 18 to 35 years old and presenting so-called sensitive but non-pathological skin, i.e. declaring have at least two of the following unpleasant or uncomfortable symptoms every day: itching, feelings of heat, tightness.

Skin irritation was induced by occlusive patches with 0.1% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) for 24 hours on 3 areas of the forearms. This model makes it possible to create an alteration of the skin barrier and therefore to model so-called irritated pathological skin, due to an altered skin barrier. The first application of the tested compositions took place 1 hour after removal of the patches. The volunteers then applied the compositions twice a day (once in the morning and once in the evening) for 5 days. The compositions tested were a formulation according to Example 3 comprising a final concentration by weight of the Gentiana crassicaulis extract obtained according to Example 1.a of 0.15% (w/w) relative to the total weight of the formulation (called “active” composition according to Example 3) applied to one of the forearms, and a formulation according to Example 3 devoid of the extract according to the invention, replaced by the reference compound Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate at the place at 0.2% (w/w) relative to the total weight of the formulation (called “control” composition according to Example 3) applied to the other forearm of each woman. An area which had been exposed to the patch but to which no composition had been applied (called “untreated”) was also studied.

The effectiveness of the treatment was evaluated by different methods:
– Measurement of the concentration of red blood cells, an indicator of skin irritation, by cell viability imaging (TiVi).
– Measurement of insensible transepidermal water loss (PIE) by measurement with the Tewameter.
– Measuring hydration using a Corneometer.

The measurement times were 1 hour after removal of the patches (D0 H0), after 4 hours (D0, H4), 24 hours (D1) and 5 days (D5).

The effectiveness of the formulations comprising or not comprising the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention was compared before treatment (D0H0), with the control formulation and with the untreated area.

The results were expressed as percentage variations compared to the value on D0H0. The statistical analyzes of the variation of the parameters as a function of time, as well as as a function of the compositions tested, were carried out after verification of the normality of distribution using the Shapiro-Wilk test, by a paired Student's t-test. , after validation of normality or by the Wilcoxon test after invalidation of normality. The significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05). The results of:
- measurement of imperceptible water loss (Tewameter) and variations in % are indicated in table 1;
- measurement of hydration (Corneometer) and variations in % are indicated in table 2;
- measurement of the concentration of red blood cells (skin irritation) by cell viability imaging (TiVi) and variation in % are indicated in table 3.

Applied composition Assessment point Average Standard deviation % variation compared to J0H0 Statistics p value compared to D0 p-value statistics compared to untreated Statistics p value compared to the control composition according to example 3 None (Untreated) J0 H0 16.82 6.57 / / / / J0 H4 15.83 6.37 -5.9% 0.015 / / D1 15.83 6.98 -5.9% 0.030 / / J5 13.65 4.94 -19% <0.001 / / Control composition according to example 3 J0 H0 14.47 4.98 / / / / J0 H4 12.71 4.55 -12% <0.001 0.150 / D1 12.13 4.85 -16% <0.001 0.081 / J5 9.76 2.60 -33% <0.001 0.173 / Active composition according to Example 3 with the extract according to Example 1.a J0 H0 15.58 5.15 / / / / J0 H4 13.35 4.64 -14% <0.001 0.023 0.222 D1 12.87 4.74 -17% <0.001 0.073 0.324 J5 10.23 2.65 -34% <0.001 0.013 0.203

The active composition according to Example 3 containing the Gentiana crassicaulis extract obtained according to Example 1.a significantly reduced the transepidermal water loss induced by the SLS patch, from 4 hours in comparison with the initial value before treatment (J0H0), and at 4 hours and after 5 days in comparison with the value of the untreated area.

Applied composition Assessment point Average Standard deviation % variation compared to J0H0 Statistics p value compared to D0 Statistics p-value compared to untreated Statistics p value compared to the control composition according to example 3 None (Untreated) J0 H0 16.42 6.11 / / / / J0 H4 16.19 5.51 -1.4% 0.333 / / D1 22.53 7.79 37% <0.001 / / J5 24.94 9.59 52% <0.001 / / Control composition according to example 3 J0 H0 16.38 6.06 / / / / J0 H4 21.29 5.05 30% <0.001 <0.001 / D1 26.02 8.40 59% <0.001 0.009 / J5 30.31 8.91 85% <0.001 0.003 / Active composition according to Example 3 with the extract according to Example 1.a J0 H0 14.95 4.65 / / / / J0 H4 24.99 5.42 67% <0.001 <0.001 <0.001 D1 25.41 6.01 70% <0.001 <0.001 0.446 J5 33.05 10.06 121% <0.001 <0.001 0.022

The active composition according to Example 3 containing the Gentiana crassicaulis extract obtained according to Example 1 increased the skin hydration rate after dehydration induced by the SLS patch, significantly from 4 hours in comparison with J0H0 (before treatment) and with the untreated and significantly from 4 hours and after 5 days in comparison with the control composition according to Example 3 devoid of the Gentiana crassicaulis extract.

All of these results show the beneficial effect of the Gentiana crassicaulis extract obtained according to the invention to improve and/or maintain the skin barrier and increase and/or maintain the hydration of irritated skin.

Applied composition Assessment point Average Standard deviation % variation compared to J0H0 Statistics p value compared to D0 p-value statistics compared to untreated Statistics p value compared to the control composition according to example 3 None (Untreated) J0 H0 126.7 20.4 / / / / J0 H4 121.8 20.5 -3.9% 0.018 / / D1 117.7 21.5 -7.1% <0.001 / / J5 112.8 19.7 -11% <0.001 / / Control composition according to example 3 J0 H0 129.8 14.5 / / / / J0 H4 119.4 13.8 -8.0% <0.001 0.007 / D1 111.8 12.6 -14% <0.001 <0.001 / J5 108.3 12.3 -17% <0.001 0.003 / Active composition according to Example 3 with the extract according to Example 1.a J0 H0 128.5 8.1 / / / / J0 H4 116.7 6.5 -9.1% <0.001 0.013 0.430 D1 109.2 2.9 -15% <0.001 0.001 0.396 J5 92.9 2.9 -28% <0.001 <0.001 <0.001

The active composition according to Example 3 containing the Gentiana crassicaulis extract obtained according to Example 1.a significantly reduced the irritation induced by the SLS patch from 4 hours in comparison with the initial value before treatment (J0H0) and with the value of the untreated area and significantly after 5 days in comparison with the control composition according to Example 3 devoid of the Gentiana crassicaulis extract. These results show the beneficial effect of the Gentiana crassicaulis extract according to the invention to reduce and/or prevent irritation of the skin.

This example demonstrates the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention for treating the altered skin barrier of irritated skin. More broadly, this example demonstrates the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention in reducing the feelings of discomfort, unpleasant and/or uncomfortable in other so-called non-pathological skin types such as sensitive skin.

Example 3: Example of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis according to example 1.a

We proceed according to methods known to those skilled in the art to mix together the different phases A, B, C indicated in Table 4 below to prepare a composition according to the present invention. The proportions are expressed in % and the names in capital letters correspond to the INCI names of the ingredients.

Phase A Quantity (% by total weight) SUCROSE POLYSTEARATE (and) CETYL PALMITATE 1.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.50 COCONUT CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 5.00 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 3.00 DIMETHICONE 0.50 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE (and) DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 CAPRATE 1.20 Phase B Water Up to 100 DISODIUM CETEARYL SULFOSUCCINATE 0.20 xanthan gum 10.00 xanthan gum 0.20 GLYCERIN 3.00 Phase C PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.00 PHENOXYETHANOL (and) ETHYLEXYLGLYCERIN 0.50 Gentiana crassicaulis extract obtained according to example 1.a 0.15

Claims (19)

Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or weakened skin and/or mucous membranes. /or dry and/or atopic prone, particularly sensitive skin. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile skin and/or mucous membranes. and/or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, to soothe healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of the healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain hydration of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that healthy skin and/or mucous membranes have a weakened skin and/or mucosal barrier. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or mucous membranes are chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or overheating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness and/or a mixture of these manifestations. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, to improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of healthy skin and/or mucosa. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is a root extract. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicaulis extract contains loganic acid and/or one or more of its derivatives, preferably in that its loganic acid content is equal to or greater than 0.1% (w/w), still preferably equal to or greater than 0.5% (w/w) relative to the total weight of dry matter of the extract Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is obtained by extraction in a polar protic solvent, preferably by extraction in a water/alcohol mixture, more preferably by extraction in a water/ethanol mixture , even more preferably by extraction in pure ethanol as the sole solvent. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, advantageously in association with maltodextrin. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicaulis extract or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it is intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition, further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for administration. topically on healthy skin. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration of between 1x10 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w) in weight, preferably between 1x10 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w) by weight, advantageously between 1x10 ^-3 % and 3% (w/w) by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w ) by weight, and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a topical use on all or part of the body and/or face and/or scalp, preferably on specific parts of the body chosen from the face and/or scalp, as well as the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips , buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, areas exposed to sensitizing agents and/or polluting agents, to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, or even shaved areas, maceration areas, crease areas and/or excessively cleaned areas. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process characterized in that it comprises application topically to at least one area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane selected from sensitive and/or sensitized and/or fragile and/or sensitive skin and/or mucous membrane. or weakened and/or dry and/or with an atopic tendency, of an extract of Gentiana crassicaulis , or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, for the cosmetic treatment and/or cosmetic care of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, in particular sensitive skin, in particular to prevent and/or reduce one or more unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of said healthy skin and/or mucous membranes, preferably chosen from tingling, itching, dryness, a feeling of heat or discomfort. heating, tension, tingling, tightness, redness and/or a mixture of these manifestations, and/or to soothe said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane and/or increase and/or maintain the comfort of said skin and/or or healthy mucous membrane and/or reduce and/or prevent the sensitivity of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or increase and/or maintain the hydration of said healthy skin and/or mucous membrane, and/or improve and/or maintain the skin and/or mucosal barrier of said healthy skin and/or mucosa. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 14, in which the area of healthy skin and/or mucous membrane is chosen from all or part of the body and/or the face and/or the scalp, preferably from specific parts of the body chosen from the face and/or scalp, as well as legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, mucous membranes, areas exposed to sensitizing agents and/or polluting agents, to temperature variations and/or areas of expression of emotions, or even shaved areas, maceration areas, crease areas and/or excessively cleaned areas. Cosmetic care process according to any one of claims 14 or 15, in which the extract of Gentiana crassicaulis is as defined in any one of claims 7 to 12. Gentiana crassicaulis extract or dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of pathologies linked to irritation of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or to the increase of its irritation and/or linked to the alteration of the cutaneous and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa and/or to the increase in its alteration and/or linked to a sharp reduction in the hydration of the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathological skin and/or mucous membrane being in particular reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and/or irritated skin and/or mucous membrane, the pathologies being for example xerosis, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis, in particular pathological desquamation, for example desquamation known as Peeling Skin Syndrome, irritation, eczema, and/or to treat and/or prevent and/or reduce the occurrence of alterations of the skin and/or mucosal barrier of the skin and/or pathological mucosa accompanying certain pathologies such as diabetes, shingles, fibromyalgia and quadriplegia. Gentiana crassicaulis extract or dermatological composition comprising it, for its use according to claim 17, to reduce and/or prevent pathological skin irritation linked to an alteration of the skin and/or mucosal barrier, the skin and/or mucosa pathological being selected from reactive, intolerant, allergic, atopic and irritated skin and/or mucous membranes. Gentiana crassicaulis extract or dermatological composition comprising it for its use according to any one of claims 17 or 18, characterized in that the Gentiana crassicaulis extract is as defined in any one of claims 7 to 10.