CN114588054B - Whitening and moisturizing composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
Whitening and moisturizing composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114588054B CN114588054B CN202210237485.0A CN202210237485A CN114588054B CN 114588054 B CN114588054 B CN 114588054B CN 202210237485 A CN202210237485 A CN 202210237485A CN 114588054 B CN114588054 B CN 114588054B
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- lecithin
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- glucan
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- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 63
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 56
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 52
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 25
- BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N hydroquinone O-beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 64
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 48
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 47
- LBTVHXHERHESKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetrahydrocurcumin Chemical compound C1=C(O)C(OC)=CC(CCC(=O)CC(=O)CCC=2C=C(OC)C(O)=CC=2)=C1 LBTVHXHERHESKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 229920001503 Glucan Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 45
- VNXWANZMRATDQM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-phenylethyl)benzene-1,3-diol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC(O)=C1CCC1=CC=CC=C1 VNXWANZMRATDQM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 229960000271 arbutin Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N p-hydroxyphenyl beta-D-alloside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 229920002305 Schizophyllan Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- WDQLRUYAYXDIFW-RWKIJVEZSA-N (2r,3r,4s,5r,6r)-4-[(2s,3r,4s,5r,6r)-3,5-dihydroxy-4-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy-6-[[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxymethyl]oxan-2-yl]oxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxane-2,3,5-triol Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)O1 WDQLRUYAYXDIFW-RWKIJVEZSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- -1 schizophyllan polysaccharide Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 54
- 239000011259 mixed solution Substances 0.000 claims description 44
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- JLPULHDHAOZNQI-ZTIMHPMXSA-N 1-hexadecanoyl-2-(9Z,12Z-octadecadienoyl)-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC JLPULHDHAOZNQI-ZTIMHPMXSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 229940083466 soybean lecithin Drugs 0.000 claims description 12
- ZIIUUSVHCHPIQD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,4,6-trimethyl-N-[3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl]benzenesulfonamide Chemical compound CC1=CC(C)=CC(C)=C1S(=O)(=O)NC1=CC=CC(C(F)(F)F)=C1 ZIIUUSVHCHPIQD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 102000015439 Phospholipases Human genes 0.000 claims description 10
- 108010064785 Phospholipases Proteins 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims description 7
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims description 7
- 240000004808 Saccharomyces cerevisiae Species 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000008384 inner phase Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000008385 outer phase Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000001291 vacuum drying Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 102000003425 Tyrosinase Human genes 0.000 abstract description 14
- 108060008724 Tyrosinase Proteins 0.000 abstract description 14
- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 12
- 239000002502 liposome Substances 0.000 abstract description 9
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 6
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 abstract description 5
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 abstract description 5
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 abstract description 5
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 230000002195 synergetic effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 230000003026 anti-oxygenic effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
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- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 11
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 9
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 8
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 6
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-QMMMGPOBSA-N L-tyrosine Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-QMMMGPOBSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 230000005764 inhibitory process Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000008055 phosphate buffer solution Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229960004441 tyrosine Drugs 0.000 description 4
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- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 230000010933 acylation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005917 acylation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003712 anti-aging effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 125000000524 functional group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 239000002504 physiological saline solution Substances 0.000 description 1
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- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005199 ultracentrifugation Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/347—Phenols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
- B01L—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL LABORATORY APPARATUS FOR GENERAL USE
- B01L3/00—Containers or dishes for laboratory use, e.g. laboratory glassware; Droppers
- B01L3/50—Containers for the purpose of retaining a material to be analysed, e.g. test tubes
- B01L3/502—Containers for the purpose of retaining a material to be analysed, e.g. test tubes with fluid transport, e.g. in multi-compartment structures
- B01L3/5027—Containers for the purpose of retaining a material to be analysed, e.g. test tubes with fluid transport, e.g. in multi-compartment structures by integrated microfluidic structures, i.e. dimensions of channels and chambers are such that surface tension forces are important, e.g. lab-on-a-chip
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Biophysics (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Analytical Chemistry (AREA)
- Hematology (AREA)
- Clinical Laboratory Science (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicinal Preparation (AREA)
Abstract
A whitening and moisturizing composition, a preparation method and application thereof relate to the technical field of cosmetics; comprises the following components in parts by mass: 1-5 parts of schizophyllan, 1-5 parts of glucan, 10-25 parts of modified lecithin, 1-5 parts of cholesterol, 2-4 parts of arbutin, 1-5 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 5-10 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 40-70 parts of water. The invention takes arbutin and phenethyl resorcinol as main whitening components, inhibits the activity of tyrosinase and reduces the generation of melanin; the stability and the hydrophilicity are improved by modifying the lecithin, the liposome is formed by combining the modified lecithin and cholesterol, and the arbutin and the phenethyl resorcinol are wrapped by the liposome, so that the transdermal absorption performance of the liposome is improved; meanwhile, the schizophyllan polysaccharide and the glucan are added, so that the moisturizing, whitening and antioxygenic properties are improved, and the synergistic effect among the components ensures that the product has excellent whitening and moisturizing effects, high stability and strong permeability.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a whitening and moisturizing composition, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Women have pursued the pursuit of whitening, and with the improvement of scientific technology and living standard, the demands of whitening cosmetics have been changed from pure physical coverage to functionality. The main factor affecting the color of human skin is the content and distribution of melanin, which is produced by oxidation of tyrosine by tyrosinase, so that the main pathway of whitening cosmetics is inhibition of tyrosinase and transfer metabolism of melanin.
The arbutin can effectively inhibit melanin synthase, prevent melanin from generating, and has antibacterial and antiinflammatory effects. However, due to the existence of a plurality of water-soluble hydroxyl groups in the molecular structure, the fat solubility of arbutin is poor, the arbutin is difficult to penetrate cell membranes, the chemical property is unstable, and the arbutin is easy to oxidize and deteriorate, so that the activity in organisms is reduced, and the effective utilization rate is not high.
Phenethyl resorcinol is an organic compound, is widely used in various whitening and freckle-removing anti-aging products, has strong antioxidation, and strongly inhibits tyrosinase activity, thereby reducing melanin production. However, the problems of light and heat instability, easy chelation by metal ions, easy oxidation, and low solubility in water of phenethyl resorcinol limit its application in the cosmetic field.
The phospholipid is an important component of biological membranes such as animal and plant cell membranes, nuclear membranes and plastid membranes, the structure of the soybean lecithin is similar to that of human body phospholipid, and the soybean lecithin can be used as a carrier component for percutaneous absorption of cosmetic medicaments, and meanwhile, the phospholipid is a good emulsifier, but has low HLB value and poor stability and is easily influenced by factors such as illumination, temperature, humidity and pH; at present, chemical modification of phospholipid is studied mainly by utilizing some chemical reagents to react with functional groups in phospholipid so as to cause chemical changes such as acetylation, hydroxylation, acylation hydroxylation and the like of phospholipid molecules, but toxic byproducts are easy to generate and harm the health of human bodies; the enzyme-modified phospholipid has the advantages of mild reaction conditions, high speed, high specificity, few byproducts, high safety and the like, but the application of the enzyme-modified phospholipid in cosmetics is rarely reported.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to overcome the defects of the prior art, one of the purposes of the invention is to provide a whitening and moisturizing composition which has excellent whitening and moisturizing effects, high stability and strong permeability.
The second purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition, which adopts a microfluidic device for preparation, and the product has stable performance.
The invention further aims at providing an application of the whitening and moisturizing composition.
One of the purposes of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:
the whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:
1-5 parts of schizophyllan, 1-5 parts of glucan, 10-25 parts of modified lecithin, 1-5 parts of cholesterol, 2-4 parts of arbutin, 1-5 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 5-10 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 40-70 parts of water.
Further, the composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:
2-4 parts of schizophyllan, 1-3 parts of glucan, 15-20 parts of modified lecithin, 2-4 parts of cholesterol, 2-4 parts of arbutin, 1-3 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 5-8 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 50-60 parts of water.
Further, the glucan comprises yeast glucan and oat glucan in a mass ratio of 0.8-1.2:1.
Further, the modified lecithin is phospholipase A 2 The soybean lecithin is subjected to enzymolysis.
Further, the preparation process of the modified lecithin comprises the following steps:
1) Uniformly mixing soybean lecithin and water to prepare a lecithin-water solution with a substrate concentration of 5-10wt%;
2) Adding phospholipase A with enzyme concentration of 0.1-0.2IU/mL to the lecithin-water solution 2 And 0.1-0.3wt% CaCl 2 Reacting at 40-50deg.C for 8-12 hrAnd collecting the product after the reaction is finished, and drying in vacuum to obtain the modified lecithin.
The second purpose of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:
a preparation method of a whitening and moisturizing composition is used for preparing the whitening and moisturizing composition and comprises the following steps of:
s1, mixing and uniformly stirring the phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin, arbutin, modified lecithin and cholesterol according to the formula amount to obtain a mixed solution A;
s2, mixing schizophyllan polysaccharide, glucan and water uniformly to obtain a mixed solution B;
s3, respectively injecting the mixed solution A and the mixed solution B into a microfluidic device, wherein the mixed solution A is an internal phase, and the mixed solution B is an external phase, so as to prepare the whitening and moisturizing composition emulsion.
Further, in the step S1, the temperature during stirring is 30-40 ℃, the stirring time is 0.5-1h, and the stirring speed is 100-300rpm.
Further, in the step S2, the temperature during stirring is 40-50 ℃, the stirring time is 10-30min, and the stirring speed is 100-300rpm.
Further, in step S3, the flow rate of the inner phase is 3-5. Mu.L/min, and the flow rate of the outer phase is 8-12. Mu.L/min.
The third purpose of the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme:
the application of the whitening and moisturizing composition in the preparation of cosmetics.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
according to the whitening and moisturizing composition, arbutin and phenethyl resorcinol are used as main whitening components, the activity of tyrosinase is inhibited, the generation of melanin is reduced, and the stability of phenethyl resorcinol can be improved by adding tetrahydrocurcumin; meanwhile, lecithin is adopted as an emulsifier to improve dispersibility, the stability and hydrophilicity of the lecithin are improved through modification of the lecithin, liposome is formed by combining the modified lecithin and cholesterol, the liposome wraps up arbutin and phenethyl resorcinol, the transdermal absorption performance of the arbutin and phenethyl resorcinol is improved, the defects of easy oxidative deterioration and poor fat solubility of the arbutin are overcome, and the problems of poor stability, easy chelation by metal ions and oxidation of the phenethyl resorcinol are also solved; meanwhile, the schizophyllan and the glucan are added, so that the whitening and moisturizing composition has excellent moisturizing, whitening and antioxidation effects, the stability of the whitening and moisturizing composition is further improved, and the whitening and moisturizing effects of the whitening and moisturizing composition are excellent, the stability is high, and the permeability is strong through the synergistic effect of the components.
According to the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition, a microfluidic device is adopted for preparation, the internal phase containing phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin and arbutin is broken into liquid drops at the node or the downstream of the node under the combined action of surface tension, shearing force of a continuous phase, viscous force of a node tip and the like, and the liquid drops are uniformly distributed in the external phase, so that the produced emulsion has good dropping uniformity and high coating rate, the protection effect of modified lecithin on whitening components is improved, and the stability and durability of the whitening and moisturizing composition product are improved.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to the following specific embodiments, and it should be noted that, on the premise of no conflict, new embodiments may be formed by any combination of the embodiments or technical features described below.
Unless otherwise specified, the reagents and materials used in the present invention are either commercially available or are extracted from plants by conventional means; the phospholipase A 2 Lecitase Ultra from Novo was used.
Example 1
The whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:
1 part of schizophyllan, 1 part of glucan, 10 parts of modified lecithin, 1 part of cholesterol, 2 parts of arbutin, 1 part of phenethyl resorcinol, 5 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 40 parts of water.
The glucan comprises yeast glucan and oat glucan in a mass ratio of 0.8:1.
The preparation process of the modified lecithin comprises the following steps:
1) Uniformly mixing soybean lecithin and water to prepare a lecithin-water solution with a substrate concentration of 5 wt%;
2) Adding phospholipase A with enzyme concentration of 0.1IU/mL to the lecithin-water solution 2 And 0.1wt% CaCl 2 And (3) reacting for 12 hours at 40 ℃, collecting a product after the reaction is finished, and drying in vacuum to obtain the modified lecithin.
The preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following steps of:
s1, mixing and uniformly stirring the phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin, arbutin, modified lecithin and cholesterol according to the formula amount to obtain a mixed solution A; the temperature during stirring is 30 ℃, the stirring time is 0.5h, and the stirring speed is 100rpm;
s2, mixing schizophyllan polysaccharide, glucan and water uniformly to obtain a mixed solution B; the temperature during stirring is 40 ℃, the stirring time is 10min, and the stirring speed is 100rpm;
s3, respectively injecting the mixed solution A and the mixed solution B into a microfluidic device, wherein the mixed solution A is an internal phase, and the mixed solution B is an external phase, so as to prepare a whitening and moisturizing composition emulsion; the flow rate of the inner phase was 3. Mu.L/min and the flow rate of the outer phase was 8. Mu.L/min.
Example 2
The whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:
2 parts of schizophyllan, 1 part of glucan, 15 parts of modified lecithin, 2 parts of cholesterol, 2 parts of arbutin, 2 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 5 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 50 parts of water.
The glucan comprises yeast glucan and oat glucan in a mass ratio of 1:1.
The preparation process of the modified lecithin comprises the following steps:
1) Uniformly mixing soybean lecithin and water to prepare a lecithin-water solution with a substrate concentration of 8 wt%;
2) Adding phospholipase A with enzyme concentration of 0.15IU/mL to the lecithin-water solution 2 And 0.2wt% CaCl 2 Reacting at 45deg.C for 10h, collecting the product after the reactionAnd (5) drying in vacuum to obtain the modified lecithin.
The preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following steps of:
s1, mixing and uniformly stirring the phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin, arbutin, modified lecithin and cholesterol according to the formula amount to obtain a mixed solution A; the temperature during stirring is 35 ℃, the stirring time is 45min, and the stirring speed is 200rpm;
s2, mixing schizophyllan polysaccharide, glucan and water uniformly to obtain a mixed solution B; the temperature during stirring is 45 ℃, the stirring time is 20min, and the stirring speed is 200rpm;
s3, respectively injecting the mixed solution A and the mixed solution B into a microfluidic device, wherein the mixed solution A is an internal phase, and the mixed solution B is an external phase, so as to prepare a whitening and moisturizing composition emulsion; the flow rate of the inner phase was 4. Mu.L/min and the flow rate of the outer phase was 10. Mu.L/min.
Example 3
The whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:
3 parts of schizophyllan, 2 parts of glucan, 18 parts of modified lecithin, 3 parts of cholesterol, 3 parts of arbutin, 2 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 6 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 55 parts of water.
The glucan comprises yeast glucan and oat glucan in a mass ratio of 1:1.
The preparation process of the modified lecithin comprises the following steps:
1) Uniformly mixing soybean lecithin and water to prepare a lecithin-water solution with a substrate concentration of 8 wt%;
2) Adding phospholipase A with enzyme concentration of 0.15IU/mL to the lecithin-water solution 2 And 0.2wt% CaCl 2 And (3) reacting for 10 hours at 45 ℃, collecting a product after the reaction is finished, and drying in vacuum to obtain the modified lecithin.
The preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following steps of:
s1, mixing and uniformly stirring the phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin, arbutin, modified lecithin and cholesterol according to the formula amount to obtain a mixed solution A; the temperature during stirring is 35 ℃, the stirring time is 45min, and the stirring speed is 200rpm;
s2, mixing schizophyllan polysaccharide, glucan and water uniformly to obtain a mixed solution B; the temperature during stirring is 45 ℃, the stirring time is 20min, and the stirring speed is 200rpm;
s3, respectively injecting the mixed solution A and the mixed solution B into a microfluidic device, wherein the mixed solution A is an internal phase, and the mixed solution B is an external phase, so as to prepare a whitening and moisturizing composition emulsion; the flow rate of the inner phase was 4. Mu.L/min and the flow rate of the outer phase was 10. Mu.L/min.
Example 4
The whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:
4 parts of schizophyllan, 3 parts of glucan, 20 parts of modified lecithin, 4 parts of cholesterol, 4 parts of arbutin, 3 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 8 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 60 parts of water.
The glucan comprises yeast glucan and oat glucan in a mass ratio of 1.2:1.
The preparation process of the modified lecithin comprises the following steps:
1) Uniformly mixing soybean lecithin and water to prepare a lecithin-water solution with a substrate concentration of 8 wt%;
2) Adding phospholipase A with enzyme concentration of 0.15IU/mL to the lecithin-water solution 2 And 0.2wt% CaCl 2 And (3) reacting for 10 hours at 45 ℃, collecting a product after the reaction is finished, and drying in vacuum to obtain the modified lecithin.
The preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following steps of:
s1, mixing and uniformly stirring the phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin, arbutin, modified lecithin and cholesterol according to the formula amount to obtain a mixed solution A; the temperature during stirring is 35 ℃, the stirring time is 45min, and the stirring speed is 200rpm;
s2, mixing schizophyllan polysaccharide, glucan and water uniformly to obtain a mixed solution B; the temperature during stirring is 45 ℃, the stirring time is 20min, and the stirring speed is 200rpm;
s3, respectively injecting the mixed solution A and the mixed solution B into a microfluidic device, wherein the mixed solution A is an internal phase, and the mixed solution B is an external phase, so as to prepare a whitening and moisturizing composition emulsion; the flow rate of the inner phase was 4. Mu.L/min and the flow rate of the outer phase was 10. Mu.L/min.
Example 5
The whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following components in parts by mass:
5 parts of schizophyllan, 5 parts of glucan, 25 parts of modified lecithin, 5 parts of cholesterol, 4 parts of arbutin, 5 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 10 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 70 parts of water.
The glucan comprises yeast glucan and oat glucan in a mass ratio of 1.2:1.
The preparation process of the modified lecithin comprises the following steps:
1) Uniformly mixing soybean lecithin and water to prepare a lecithin-water solution with a substrate concentration of 10 wt%;
2) Adding phospholipase A with enzyme concentration of 0.2IU/mL to the lecithin-water solution 2 And 0.3wt% CaCl 2 And (3) reacting for 9 hours at 50 ℃, collecting a product after the reaction is finished, and drying in vacuum to obtain the modified lecithin.
The preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following steps of:
s1, mixing and uniformly stirring the phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin, arbutin, modified lecithin and cholesterol according to the formula amount to obtain a mixed solution A; the temperature during stirring is 40 ℃, the stirring time is 1h, and the stirring speed is 300rpm;
s2, mixing schizophyllan polysaccharide, glucan and water uniformly to obtain a mixed solution B; the temperature during stirring is 50 ℃, the stirring time is 30min, and the stirring speed is 300rpm;
s3, respectively injecting the mixed solution A and the mixed solution B into a microfluidic device, wherein the mixed solution A is an internal phase, and the mixed solution B is an external phase, so as to prepare a whitening and moisturizing composition emulsion; the flow rate of the inner phase was 5. Mu.L/min and the flow rate of the outer phase was 12. Mu.L/min.
Comparative example 1
The other components of this comparative example were the same as in example 3, except that: the modified lecithin of example 3 was replaced with an equivalent amount of soybean lecithin.
Comparative example 2
The other components of this comparative example were the same as in example 3, except that: comprises the following components in parts by mass:
3 parts of schizophyllan, 2 parts of glucan, 18 parts of modified lecithin, 3 parts of cholesterol, 5 parts of arbutin, 6 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 55 parts of water.
Comparative example 3
The other components of this comparative example were the same as in example 3, except that: comprises the following components in parts by mass:
3 parts of schizophyllan, 2 parts of glucan, 18 parts of modified lecithin, 3 parts of cholesterol, 5 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 6 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 55 parts of water.
Comparative example 4
The other components of this comparative example were the same as in example 3, except that: comprises the following components in parts by mass:
18 parts of modified lecithin, 3 parts of cholesterol, 3 parts of arbutin, 2 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 6 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 60 parts of water.
Comparative example 5
The other components of this comparative example were the same as in example 3, except that: the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following steps of:
(1) Mixing and stirring the formula amount of phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin, arbutin, modified lecithin, cholesterol, schizophyllan polysaccharide, glucan and water uniformly to obtain a mixed solution; the temperature during stirring is 35 ℃, the stirring time is 45min, and the stirring speed is 200rpm;
(2) Homogenizing the mixed solution at 3000rpm for 10min under 80MPa to obtain the whitening and moisturizing composition.
Performance testing
1. Stability test
The whitening and moisturizing compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 and 5 were subjected to stability test by taking 10g of each of the samples of the whitening and moisturizing compositions into test tubes, sealing, heating in a water bath at 50 ℃ for 30 days, and observing changes in appearance; the sample was further irradiated with a cold fluorescent lamp at room temperature at an illumination intensity of 2000Lux, and the change in appearance was observed, and the results are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
| Project | Thermal stability | Light stability |
| Example 1 | No colour change | No colour change |
| Example 2 | No colour change | No colour change |
| Example 3 | No colour change | No colour change |
| Example 4 | No colour change | No colour change |
| Example 5 | No colour change | No colour change |
| Comparative example 1 | The product turns yellowish | The product turns yellowish |
| Comparative example 5 | The product turns yellowish | The product turns yellow |
As can be seen from table 1, the stability of the product can be significantly improved by modifying lecithin and preparing the product by a microfluidic device.
2. Whitening Performance test
The preparation method of the liquid to be tested comprises the following steps: 1.0g of each of the samples of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 4 was weighed, dispersed uniformly with distilled water, transferred into a 100mL volumetric flask for constant volume, and diluted to test solutions with a concentration of 5.0mg/mL, respectively.
The experimental method comprises the following steps: respectively preparing a Phosphate Buffer Solution (PBS), a tyrosinase solution with the mass concentration of 0.07mg/mL and an L-tyrosine solution with the mass concentration of 1.0 mg/mL; then respectively preparing to-be-detected liquid 1-4, specifically:
preparing a liquid to be tested 1:2.0mL of PBS+0.5mL of tyrosinase solution+0.5 mL of L-tyrosine solution; liquid to be measured 2:2.5mLPBS+0.5mL tyrosinase solution; liquid to be measured 3:0.5mL of the test solution+1.5 mL of PBS+0.5mL of tyrosinase solution+0.5 mL of-tyrosine solution; liquid to be measured 4:0.5mL of the test solution+2.0mLPBS+0.5 mL of tyrosinase solution. The absorbance at 475nm is immediately measured after the temperature is kept for 30min in a water bath at 37 ℃, and the absorbance is respectively recorded as A 1 、A 2 、A 3 、A 4 . Tyrosinase inhibition was calculated according to formula i and the test results are shown in table 2.
Tyrosinase inhibition rate = [ (a) 1 -A 2 )-(A 3 -A 4 )]/(A 1 -A 2 ) X 100% (formula I)
TABLE 2
| Project | Tyrosinase inhibition/% |
| Example 1 | 70.6 |
| Example 2 | 73.5 |
| Example 3 | 76.3 |
| Example 4 | 74.8 |
| Example 5 | 69.4 |
| Comparative example 1 | 74.6 |
| Comparative example 2 | 63.1 |
| Comparative example 3 | 70.7 |
| Comparative example 4 | 71.5 |
As shown in table 2, the arbutin, phenethyl resorcinol, schizophyllan and glucan have a synergistic effect, and the tyrosinase inhibition performance is excellent and the whitening effect is remarkable.
3. Moisture retention test
The testing method comprises the following steps: 5.0g of each of the compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 and 4 was weighed, placed in a weighing flask, and placed in an atmosphere having a relative humidity of 40% and 80% at room temperature for 24 hours, and the moisture retention was calculated according to formula (II).
Wherein m is 0 G, the mass of the sample to be detected; m is m n G, sample mass after 24 hours of standing.
The moisture retention data for each group is shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 Table 3
As is clear from Table 3, the composition of the present invention was excellent in moisturizing effect, and in comparative example 4, it was found that the moisturizing effect was significantly reduced due to the lack of schizophyllan and glucan.
4. Liposome Performance test
1) The whitening and moisturizing compositions of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1 and 5 were measured for average particle size by a laser particle sizer; measuring liposome encapsulation efficiency of the whitening and moisturizing composition by adopting an ultracentrifugation method; performing a transdermal test by using the abdominal skin of the rat;
the transdermal test comprises the following steps: the abdomen skin of male SD rats weighing 250g was used as the barrier layer for the transdermal test. The intact skin is secured between the receiving reservoir and the supply reservoir. Diffusion cell parameters: effective diffusion area 3.14cm 2 The volume of the receiving tank is about 8.0ml, and the magnetic stirring speed is 600r/min. The receiving tank is filled with physiological saline as a release medium, stirring is started, and the temperature is kept at 37 ℃. Uniformly coating 1g of sample on the skin surface, testing for 10 hr, and measuring the receiving solution by HPLCCalculating the cumulative transmission of the sample according to the concentration of the phenethyl resorcinol; the results are shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4 Table 4
| Project | Particle size (nm) | Encapsulation efficiency (%) | Transdermal quantity (μg/cm) 2 ) |
| Example 1 | 657 | 56.8 | 243 |
| Example 2 | 715 | 57.3 | 254 |
| Example 3 | 712 | 57.6 | 267 |
| Example 4 | 720 | 57.5 | 261 |
| Example 5 | 803 | 56.1 | 256 |
| Comparative example 1 | 709 | 46.8 | 207 |
| Comparative example 5 | 436 | 50.4 | 236 |
As is clear from Table 4, the present invention forms a liposome by combining modified lecithin and cholesterol, and the liposome can encapsulate an active ingredient, thereby improving the transdermal absorption performance.
The above embodiments are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, but any insubstantial changes and substitutions made by those skilled in the art on the basis of the present invention are intended to be within the scope of the present invention as claimed.
Claims (7)
1. The whitening and moisturizing composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass:
1-5 parts of schizophyllan, 1-5 parts of glucan, 10-25 parts of modified lecithin, 1-5 parts of cholesterol, 2-4 parts of arbutin, 1-5 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 5-10 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 40-70 parts of water;
the glucan comprises yeast glucan and oat glucan with a mass ratio of 0.8-1.2:1;
the modified lecithin is phospholipase A 2 Enzymolysis of soybean lecithin;
the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing composition comprises the following steps of:
s1, mixing and uniformly stirring the phenethyl resorcinol, tetrahydrocurcumin, arbutin, modified lecithin and cholesterol according to the formula amount to obtain a mixed solution A;
s2, mixing schizophyllan polysaccharide, glucan and water uniformly to obtain a mixed solution B;
s3, respectively injecting the mixed solution A and the mixed solution B into a microfluidic device, wherein the mixed solution A is an internal phase, and the mixed solution B is an external phase, so as to prepare the whitening and moisturizing composition emulsion.
2. The whitening and moisturizing composition according to claim 1, wherein: comprises the following components in parts by mass:
2-4 parts of schizophyllan, 1-3 parts of glucan, 15-20 parts of modified lecithin, 2-4 parts of cholesterol, 2-4 parts of arbutin, 1-3 parts of phenethyl resorcinol, 5-8 parts of tetrahydrocurcumin and 50-60 parts of water.
3. The whitening and moisturizing composition according to claim 1, wherein: the preparation process of the modified lecithin comprises the following steps:
1) Uniformly mixing soybean lecithin and water to prepare a lecithin-water solution with a substrate concentration of 5-10wt%;
2) Adding phospholipase A with enzyme concentration of 0.1-0.2IU/mL to the lecithin-water solution 2 And 0.1-0.3wt% CaCl 2 Reacting at 40-50 deg.c for 8-12 hr, collecting the product after the reaction, and vacuum drying to obtain modified lecithin.
4. The whitening and moisturizing composition according to claim 1, wherein: in the step S1, the temperature during stirring is 30-40 ℃, the stirring time is 0.5-1h, and the stirring speed is 100-300rpm.
5. The whitening and moisturizing composition according to claim 1, wherein: in the step S2, the temperature during stirring is 40-50 ℃, the stirring time is 10-30min, and the stirring speed is 100-300rpm.
6. The whitening and moisturizing composition according to claim 1, wherein: in step S3, the flow rate of the inner phase is 3-5 mu L/min, and the flow rate of the outer phase is 8-12 mu L/min.
7. Use of the whitening and moisturizing composition as set forth in any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that: the application of the whitening and moisturizing composition in preparing cosmetics.
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