CN103541101A - Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof - Google Patents
Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN103541101A CN103541101A CN201310488622.9A CN201310488622A CN103541101A CN 103541101 A CN103541101 A CN 103541101A CN 201310488622 A CN201310488622 A CN 201310488622A CN 103541101 A CN103541101 A CN 103541101A
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- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 9
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 36
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 30
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 27
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 claims description 23
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 229910052709 silver Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000004332 silver Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000001467 acupuncture Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000011001 backwashing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009413 insulation Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000012946 outsourcing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000012805 post-processing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 101000688543 Homo sapiens Shugoshin 2 Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 102100024238 Shugoshin 2 Human genes 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003223 protective agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241000406668 Loxodonta cyclotis Species 0.000 description 1
- 240000007594 Oryza sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000007164 Oryza sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007306 functionalization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008676 import Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- GOLXNESZZPUPJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N spiromesifen Chemical compound CC1=CC(C)=CC(C)=C1C(C(O1)=O)=C(OC(=O)CC(C)(C)C)C11CCCC1 GOLXNESZZPUPJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000010415 tropism Effects 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention discloses ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and a production method thereof. A novel high-quality low-cost technique, namely 'wool/cashmere/PVA', is provided by modification on the technical basis of existing 'wool/PVA', and the low-cost high-quality ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft fancy suiting is produced by the technique. PVA filaments and PVA staples are used together in the product; the warps are added 35D PVA filaments by the yarn covering process, weaving strength of the product is enhanced, and the finished fabric is bulky, light, soft and breathable after post-finishing and PVA removing; the single-warp single-weft process is adopted, and the fabric has excellent wrinkle resistance and has 11% natural elasticity; the fabric contains 30% of cashmere, so that the grade of the product is further increased; the fabric has fine and smooth texture, natural gloss, soft handle with elasticity and good drapability and has excellent wearability.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of smart wool spinning fabric, relate in particular to a kind of superelevation and prop up woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting
And preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Along with the raising of people's living standard, and the development of dress ornament dressing culture, worsted fabric presents the trend of " raw material diversification ", " structure is lightening ", " style trend ", " use functionalization ".
And lightening production key is the production of high yarn count.Be limited by the restriction of raw material, produce high yarn count pure wool product, must adopt superfine wool to produce, and the whole dependence on import of superfine wool, and price is very expensive, thereby the benefit that input product produces is undesirable.
" WOOL/PVA " i.e. that International Wool Secretariat promotes be " wool/PVA " new technology, started new era low-cost, high-quality pure wool fabric.How producing more high-quality, more low-cost product, is a great development direction of current smart wool spinning fabric.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to improve out a kind of new high-quality, low-cost technologies in existing " wool/PVA " technical foundation, i.e. " wool/cashmere/PVA ", and use this technology to produce low, the high-quality superelevation of cost and prop up woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting.
Another object of the present invention is to provide the production method that this superelevation is propped up woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting.
The object of the invention is to be achieved through the following technical solutions:
A kind of superelevation is propped up woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting, by warp thread and weft yarn, be interwoven, it is characterized by, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread single thread number is 60, Wei Xianyong 17.5um Australia hair, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber be the cored composite yarn with the 35D PVA long filament outsourcing of 35D PVA long filament doubling formation in when spinning then, weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, 16.15um cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%,, it is 70/1 by yarn yarn count that finished product moves back dimension; Described weft yarn single thread number is that 51 Zhi，Wei You 17.5um Australia hairs, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber form, and weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, cashmere 30%, and PVA short fiber 15%, it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension.Wherein, PVA short fiber and PVA long filament are all soluble.
Above-mentioned superelevation is propped up the production method of woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting, and its step is as follows:
(1) ,Yi 17.5um Australia hair, 16.15um cashmere and 2.1DPVA short fiber are raw material, add PVA short fiber and Australia's hair, cashmere to make bar when bar dyes recombing, and wherein each raw material weight Bi Wei 17.5um Australia hair 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%; Bar dyeing technique is: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar; Wherein, before cashmere silver mixing, first spinning portion's dewing, off time is more than 12 hours; Before dyeing, cashmere and wool require silver mixing 2 times, make every effort to abundant mixing, guarantee Color below; Adopt vapour Bagong Si Lanna uniformly dyeing material, and add wool protective agent and the blue Q of Miller; During post processing, pH value is strictly controlled, and not only guarantees that loose colour cleans up but also do not damage woollen and cashmere fiber; The strict after backwashing temperature of controlling, drying room temperature is no more than 110 ℃, reduces the damage to fiber; The strict PVA product requirement of pressing is controlled, and silver mixing is even; Forbid to do over again.
(2), the above-mentioned finished product bar making is spinned and makes warp thread and weft yarn, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread single thread number is 60, Wei Xianyong 17.5um Australia hair, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber be the cored composite yarn with the 35D PVA long filament outsourcing of 35D PVA long filament doubling formation in when spinning then, weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, 16.15um cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%, it is 70/1 by yarn yarn count that finished product in warp thread moves back dimension, warp thread of the present invention adopts cladded yarn technique to add 35DPVA long filament greatly to strengthen and weaves brute force, improve product quality, described weft yarn single thread number is that 51 Zhi，Wei You 17.5um Australia hairs, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber form, and weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, cashmere 30%, and PVA short fiber 15%, it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension,
Spinning process is: scalp acupuncture → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → yarn steaming → winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Wherein spinning process is by light quantitative, the low speed of a motor vehicle, small tension receiving coil, little package, principle that passage is smooth, and preceding working procedure requires silver mixing even, and scalp acupuncture requires to do twice; Spun yarn is put on four roller fine spining machines and is produced, and drafting multiple 10 ~ 15 keeps passage bright and clean, reduces filoplume card nailing neps, improves yarn qualities; Doubling is first made sample before adding 35D PVA solubility long filament, sees after test effect without producing in batches after elephant skin yarn, handle yarn again; Yarn steaming: for PVA kind, what the portion of spinning was the most key is yarn steaming technique, the presentation quality of the woven efficiency in road and final finished after the quality of yarn steaming effect directly affects; Formulating yarn steaming technique is: pressure 0.88MPa during spun yarn yarn steaming, and temperature 30-90 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulations 20 minutes, pressure 0.88MPa while adding after PVA long filament yarn steaming, temperature 30-80 ℃, 80 ℃ of insulations 20 minutes; Adopt after this yarn steaming technique, effectively solved yarn steaming distortion after double twisting, yarn count shrinks excessive, and the unequal problem of yarn tension, weaves cotton cloth and obtained larger improvement through shelves problem.
(3), the above-mentioned warp thread making and weft yarn are weaved and made fancy suiting grey cloth, fancy suiting grey cloth is carried out to post processing and get product;
Weaving process is: warping → gaiting → plug in reed → weave → base to examine; Wherein, 250 revs/min of speed of beamings, guarantee that passage is smooth, 40 revs/min of beaming speed; Use circular port heald, guarantee that yarn can freely pass through; Loom Shu Mite, guarantees that each channels clean is smooth, prevents that hook hinders the solubility long filament outside yarn, causes yarn strength rapid drawdown and causes weaving efficiency low; Loom technological parameter arranges as follows: tension force 240kg, and 250 revs/min of speed, back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm, presses small tension receiving coil, and the low speed of a motor vehicle is carried out;
Aftertreatment technology is: move back dimension → baking → singe → open washing → baking → middle inspection → ripe repairing → bristle → cropping → softness → dewing → hot light → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein, the principle of necessary strict implement small tension control in rear arrangement production process, avoids impact not enough through tropism, improves in addition final finished tearing brute force; Move back dimension, 95 degree, 30 minutes; Determine that PVA cleans up, anti-retaining dimension does not make grey cloth hardening after high temperature only; Wash contracting: pressure roller pressure: 0. 7kg/m2, moment: 12cm, the speed of a motor vehicle: 150m/min, plays beginning Wen Du≤32 ℃, Mao Nengjing: 2%, rinse: speed=120m/min, 20min/60m; Singe: because face is frivolous, this product speed of singing is increased to 100 ms/min, singes in front, adopts the mode of cutting burning, the brute force of avoiding affecting finished product of trying one's best.
Superelevation of the present invention is propped up woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting and is utilized Australia's hair that number is very not high, the PVA fiber blend of cashmere and solubility, that in International Wool Secretariat, promotes is high-quality, cheaply " WOOL/PVA " " wool/PVA " technical further again, added cashmere, and a series of difficult problems that different material carries out blending have been overcome, having formulated a series of rational bars dyes, spinning, weave, postfinishing process produces a desired effect finished product to guarantee each raw material performance effect separately, formed " WOOL/CASHMERE/PVA " i.e. " wool/cashmere/PVA " new technology, in this technology, cashmere adds, the feel of pure wool fabric is greatly improved, product quality class improves, especially in product of the present invention, contain 30% cashmere, make fabric texture fine and smooth, smooth, gloss nature, soft but be no lack of elasticity, draping property is good, have splendid wearability, and PVA long filament and the collocation of PVA short fiber are used, first at bar, dying recombing is to add 15%PVA short fiber and wool, cashmere to make bar, in when spinning and the doubling of solubility long filament, warp thread has adopted cladded yarn technique to add 35D PVA long filament, with this, has increased and has weaved brute force again, in rear arrangement, move back after dimension dissolves PVA, finished product number is warp thread yarn count 70/1, weft yarn yarn count 60/1, and finished product fabric is fluffy, light weight, soft ventilative etc. functional, owing to adopting single-warp single-abb technique, fabric has splendid wrinkle resistance, reaches 11% natural elasticity simultaneously.
The present invention's beneficial effect is compared with prior art:
Fabric of the present invention, owing to having adopted the collocation of PVA long filament and PVA short fiber to use, warp thread has adopted cladded yarn technique to add 35D PVA long filament, has strengthened and has weaved brute force, makes rear arrangement move back after dimension that finished product fabric is fluffy, light weight, soft ventilative; Owing to adopting single-warp single-abb technique, fabric has splendid wrinkle resistance, reaches 11% natural elasticity simultaneously; Because contain 30% cashmere in fabric, the class of product is further promoted again, fabric texture is fine and smooth, smooth, and gloss is natural, soft but be no lack of elasticity, and draping property is good, has splendid wearability.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1
(1) ,Yi 17.5um Australia hair, 16.15um cashmere and 2.1DPVA short fiber are raw material, add PVA short fiber and Australia's hair, cashmere to make bar when bar dyes recombing, and wherein each raw material weight Bi Wei 17.5um Australia hair 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%; Bar dyeing technique is: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar; Wherein, before cashmere silver mixing, first spinning portion's dewing, off time is more than 12 hours; Before dyeing, cashmere and wool require silver mixing 2 times; During dyeing, adopt vapour Bagong Si Lanna uniformly dyeing material, and add wool protective agent and the blue Q of Miller; During after backwashing, drying room temperature is no more than 110 ℃; During silver mixing, strictly press PVA product requirement and control, silver mixing needs evenly;
(2), the above-mentioned finished product bar making is spinned and makes warp thread and weft yarn, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread single thread number is 60, Wei Xianyong 17.5um Australia hair, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber be the cored composite yarn with the 35D PVA long filament outsourcing of 35D PVA long filament doubling formation in when spinning then, weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, 16.15um cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%,, it is 70/1 by yarn yarn count that finished product moves back dimension; Described weft yarn single thread number is that 51 Zhi，Wei You 17.5um Australia hairs, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber form, and weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, cashmere 30%, and PVA short fiber 15%, it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension;
Spinning process is: scalp acupuncture → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → yarn steaming → winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Wherein scalp acupuncture requires to do twice; Spun yarn is put on four roller fine spining machines and is produced, drafting multiple 10 ~ 15; Yarn steaming: pressure 0.88MPa during spun yarn yarn steaming, temperature 30-90 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulations 20 minutes, pressure 0.88MPa while adding after PVA long filament yarn steaming, temperature 30-80 ℃, 80 ℃ of insulations 20 minutes;
(3), the above-mentioned warp thread making and weft yarn are weaved and made fancy suiting grey cloth, fancy suiting grey cloth is carried out to post processing and get product;
Weaving process is: warping → gaiting → plug in reed → weave → base to examine; Wherein, 250 revs/min of speed of beamings, guarantee that passage is smooth, 40 revs/min of beaming speed; Use circular port heald; Loom Shu Mite, guarantees that each channels clean is smooth; Loom technological parameter is: tension force 240kg, 250 revs/min of speed, back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm;
Aftertreatment technology is: move back dimension → baking → singe → open washing → baking → middle inspection → ripe repairing → bristle → cropping → softness → dewing → hot light → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein, move back dimension, 95 degree, 30 minutes, determine that PVA cleans up; Wash contracting: pressure roller pressure: 0. 7kg/m2, moment: 12cm, the speed of a motor vehicle: 150m/min, plays beginning Wen Du≤32 ℃, Mao Nengjing: 2%, rinse: speed=120m/min, 20min/60m; Singe: 100 ms/min of speed, singing in front, adopts the mode of cutting burning.
The superelevation making is propped up 528/10 centimetres of woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting finished product warp counts, 420/10 centimetres of weft counts, fabric width 154cm, the heavy 220g/m of rice.
The above, be only the specific embodiment of the present invention, but protection scope of the present invention is not limited to this, and any variation of expecting without creative work or replacement, within all should being encompassed in protection scope of the present invention.Therefore, protection scope of the present invention should be as the criterion with the protection domain that claims were limited.
Claims (2)
1. a superelevation is propped up woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting, by warp thread and weft yarn, be interwoven, it is characterized by, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread single thread number is 60, Wei Xianyong 17.5um Australia hair, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber be the cored composite yarn with the 35D PVA long filament outsourcing of 35D PVA long filament doubling formation in when spinning then, weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, 16.15um cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%,, it is 70/1 by yarn yarn count that finished product moves back dimension; Described weft yarn single thread number is that 51 Zhi，Wei You 17.5um Australia hairs, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber form, and weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, cashmere 30%, and PVA short fiber 15%, it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension.
2. superelevation according to claim 1 is propped up the production method of woollen and cashmere single-warp single-abb fancy suiting, and its step is as follows:
(1) ,Yi 17.5um Australia hair, 16.15um cashmere and 2.1DPVA short fiber are raw material, add PVA short fiber and Australia's hair, cashmere to make bar when bar dyes recombing, and wherein each raw material weight Bi Wei 17.5um Australia hair 70%, cashmere 30%, PVA short fiber 15%; Bar dyeing technique is: dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → finished product bar; Wherein, before cashmere silver mixing, first spinning portion's dewing, off time is more than 12 hours; Before dyeing, cashmere and wool require silver mixing 2 times; During dyeing, adopt vapour Bagong Si Lanna uniformly dyeing material, and add wool protective agent and the blue Q of Miller; During after backwashing, drying room temperature is no more than 110 ℃; During silver mixing, strictly press PVA product requirement and control, silver mixing needs evenly;
(2), the above-mentioned finished product bar making is spinned and makes warp thread and weft yarn, described warp thread and weft yarn are single thread, described warp thread single thread number is 60, Wei Xianyong 17.5um Australia hair, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber be the cored composite yarn with the 35D PVA long filament outsourcing of 35D PVA long filament doubling formation in when spinning then, weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, 16.15um cashmere 30%, 2.1DPVA short fiber 15%, 35D PVA long filament 10% ~ 20%,, it is 70/1 by yarn yarn count that finished product moves back dimension; Described weft yarn single thread number is that 51 Zhi，Wei You 17.5um Australia hairs, 16.15um cashmere and the blending of 2.1DPVA short fiber form, and weight ratio is wherein 17.5um Australia hair 70%, cashmere 30%, and PVA short fiber 15%, it is 60/1 that finished product moves back the rear weft yarn yarn count of dimension;
Spinning process is: scalp acupuncture → scalp acupuncture → bis-pin → tri-pin → tetra-pin → rove → spun yarn → yarn steaming → winder → doubling → double twisting → yarn steaming; Wherein scalp acupuncture requires to do twice; Spun yarn is put on four roller fine spining machines and is produced, drafting multiple 10 ~ 15; Yarn steaming: pressure 0.88MPa during spun yarn yarn steaming, temperature 30-90 ℃, 90 ℃ of insulations 20 minutes, pressure 0.88MPa while adding after PVA long filament yarn steaming, temperature 30-80 ℃, 80 ℃ of insulations 20 minutes;
(3), the above-mentioned warp thread making and weft yarn are weaved and made fancy suiting grey cloth, fancy suiting grey cloth is carried out to post processing and get product;
Weaving process is: warping → gaiting → plug in reed → weave → base to examine; Wherein, 250 revs/min of speed of beamings, guarantee that passage is smooth, 40 revs/min of beaming speed; Use circular port heald; Loom Shu Mite, guarantees that each channels clean is smooth; Loom technological parameter is: tension force 240kg, 250 revs/min of speed, back rest front and back position 105cm, highly-1cm, menelipsis height-2cm, front and back position 56cm;
Aftertreatment technology is: move back dimension → baking → singe → open washing → baking → middle inspection → ripe repairing → bristle → cropping → softness → dewing → hot light → tank steaming → finished product; Wherein, move back dimension, 95 degree, 30 minutes, determine that PVA cleans up; Wash contracting: pressure roller pressure: 0. 7kg/m2, moment: 12cm, the speed of a motor vehicle: 150m/min, plays beginning Wen Du≤32 ℃, Mao Nengjing: 2%, rinse: speed=120m/min, 20min/60m; Singe: 100 ms/min of speed, singing in front, adopts the mode of cutting burning.
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| CN104404691A (en) * | 2014-12-20 | 2015-03-11 | 鲁丰织染有限公司 | Method for weaving super high-count single yarn |
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