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CN101906693A - Production method of broken filament jacquard tweed - Google Patents

Production method of broken filament jacquard tweed Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101906693A
CN101906693A CN201010233310.XA CN201010233310A CN101906693A CN 101906693 A CN101906693 A CN 101906693A CN 201010233310 A CN201010233310 A CN 201010233310A CN 101906693 A CN101906693 A CN 101906693A
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CN
China
Prior art keywords
overfeeding
dyeing
cloth
gate width
silk
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
CN201010233310.XA
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
杨丽萍
杨毅方
顾士清
任忠炎
葛立平
杨先
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Jiangsu Nijiaxiang Group Worsted Textile Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Jiangsu Nijiaxiang Group Worsted Textile Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Jiangsu Nijiaxiang Group Worsted Textile Co Ltd filed Critical Jiangsu Nijiaxiang Group Worsted Textile Co Ltd
Priority to CN201010233310.XA priority Critical patent/CN101906693A/en
Publication of CN101906693A publication Critical patent/CN101906693A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

The invention relates to a production method of broken filament jacquard tweed which is prepared by taking 36 percent of raw silkworm silk and 64 percent of 18.5mum Australian wool in percentage by mass as raw materials and adopting the steps of slub-dyeing and recombing, spinning, weaving as well as dyeing and finishing. The invention has the silky, waxy, noble and gorgeous characteristics of silk fabrics, simultaneously has the characteristics of good gas permeability and stable size of wool fabrics and is natural and mild in gloss and excellent in wearability and capable of producing clothes which are suitable for various occasions.

Description

The production method of broken filament jacquard tweed
(1) technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of production method of lining, especially relate to a kind of production method of broken filament jacquard tweed.Belong to field of fabric producing technology.
(2) background technology
Raising day by day along with people's living standard, consumption idea is brought in constant renewal in, the wool spinning fabric forward is lightening, superior, comfortableization direction develops, the market demand of medium and high-grade goods increases gradually, and particularly the consumption of the quality of fabric lining, kind, fancy, easy nursing etc. requires more and more higher.Some common all woolens, hair are washed the eyeball that product no longer attracts people, and popular, beautiful, fashion, unique style are the factors that people at first consider when selecting clothes.
(3) summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of sliding glutinous, noble magnificent characteristics of silk fabrics feel that have, do not lose the production method of broken filament jacquard tweed of characteristic of good permeability, the dimensionally stable of wool fabric simultaneously.
The object of the present invention is achieved like this: a kind of production method of broken filament jacquard tweed, be that 18.5 μ m Australia wool with the silkworm raw silk of 36% mass percent and 64% mass percent is a raw material, dye recombing, spin, weave with dyeing and finishing and form through bar
1) raw material physical index and specification
18.5 μ m Australia hair:
Fineness 18.43 μ m,
Length 80.4mm,
2) spinning specification
Warp thread: silkworm raw silk 3/20/22D
Weft yarn: all woolen yarn sub-thread 45/1850 sth. made by twisting/rice are twisted with the fingers to Z
3) trimmed size
Warp count: 943/10cm
Weft count: 366/10cm
Fabric width: 140cm
Mi Chong: 175g/m
Its master operation comprises:
1) bar dyes combing
Dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → slivering
2) wool spinning spinning
Silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove → spun yarn → from winder → yarn steaming
3) weave
Silkworm immersing raw silk → warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection → life is repaiied
4) dyeing and finishing
Come unstuck → open washing → baking → typing first time → dyeing → open washing → first time baking → middle inspection → bristle → cropping → dewing → preshrunk → finished product
Baking for the first time: 120 ℃ of temperature, last gate width of cloth 150cm, last overfeeding 10%, following overfeeding 8%, hairbrush overfeeding 10%, following gate width of cloth 151-152cm, 30 meters/minute of speed,
Dyeing: adopt the secondary decoration method, dye hair earlier, the after stain silk dyes the Mao Shiyong orchid and receives free and easy dyestuff, reinforced in the time of 40 ℃, temperature rises to 100 ℃ of insulations 60 minutes, and cooling is filtered, after swell dyestuff with the vapour Bark again and dye silk, temperature rises to 60 ℃ of insulations and filters out dye vat, twice of open washing after 60 minutes
Baking for the second time: 120 ℃ of temperature, last gate width of cloth 148cm, last overfeeding 10%, following overfeeding 8%, hairbrush overfeeding 10%, following gate width of cloth 150-151cm, 30 meters/minute of speed,
Flat boiling: 95 ℃ of crabbing temperature, fast 30m/min,
Typing: 170 ℃ of temperature, fast 20m/min, overfeeding 5%, last gate width of cloth 150cm, following gate width of cloth 152cm,
Preshrunk: moisture regain 8%, 10 meters/minute of speed, overfeeding 10%.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows:
The present invention has sliding glutinous, the noble magnificent characteristics of silk fabrics feel, does not lose the good permeability of wool fabric simultaneously, the characteristic of dimensionally stable.Gloss is soft naturally, and wearability is good.Can produce and be fit to various occasion dresses.
(4) specific embodiment
The production method of the broken filament jacquard tweed that the present invention relates to is that the 18.5 μ m Australia wool with the silkworm raw silk of 36% mass percent and 64% mass percent is a raw material, dyes recombing, spins, weaves with dyeing and finishing and form through bar.
1) raw material physical index and specification
18.5 μ m Australia hair:
Fineness 18.43 μ m,
Length 80.4mm,
2) spinning specification
Warp thread: silkworm raw silk 3/20/22D
Weft yarn: all woolen yarn sub-thread 45/1850 sth. made by twisting/rice are twisted with the fingers to Z
3) trimmed size
Warp count: 943/10cm
Weft count: 366/10cm
Fabric width: 140cm
Mi Chong: 175g/m
Its master operation comprises:
1) bar dyes combing
Dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → slivering
2) wool spinning spinning
Silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove → spun yarn → from winder → yarn steaming
3) weave
Silkworm immersing raw silk → warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection → life is repaiied
4) dyeing and finishing
Come unstuck → open washing → baking → typing first time → dyeing → open washing → second time baking → middle inspection → bristle → cropping → dewing → preshrunk → finished product
Baking for the first time: once dry by the fire technology before dyeing earlier, right face is tentatively finalized the design, and prevents to cause when dyeing the disadvantage of colored type displacement.120 ℃ of temperature, last gate width of cloth 150cm, last overfeeding 10%, following overfeeding 8%, hairbrush overfeeding 10%, following gate width of cloth 151-152cm, 30 meters/minute of speed.
Dyeing: this product is the lousiness kind that interweaves, adopt the secondary decoration method, dye hair earlier, the after stain silk dyes the Mao Shiyong orchid and receives free and easy dyestuff, and is reinforced in the time of 40 ℃, temperature rises to 100 ℃ of insulations 60 minutes, cooling is filtered, after dye silk with the grand dyestuff of vapour Bark again, temperature rises to 60 ℃ and filters out dye vat after being incubated 60 minutes.Open washing twice fully cleans up residual dyestuff, auxiliary agent, guarantees the quality of final finished.
Baking for the second time: 120 ℃ of temperature, last gate width of cloth 148cm, last overfeeding 10%, following overfeeding 8%, hairbrush overfeeding 10%, following gate width of cloth 150-151cm, 30 meters/minute of speed.
Flat boiling: 95 ℃ of crabbing temperature, fast 30m/min,
Typing: 170 ℃ of temperature, fast 20m/min, overfeeding 5%, last gate width of cloth 150cm, following gate width of cloth 152cm.
7) preshrunk: set moisture regain 8%, 10 meters/minute of speed, overfeeding 10%.

Claims (1)

1. the production method of a broken filament jacquard tweed is characterized in that described fancy suiting is is raw material with the silkworm raw silk of 36% mass percent and the 18.5 μ m Australia wool of 64% mass percent, dyes recombing, spins, weaves with dyeing and finishing and form through bar,
1) raw material physical index and specification
18.5 μ m Australia hair:
Fineness 18.43 μ m,
Length 80.4mm,
2) spinning specification
Warp thread: silkworm raw silk 3/20/22D
Weft yarn: all woolen yarn sub-thread 45/1850 sth. made by twisting/rice are twisted with the fingers to Z
3) trimmed size
Warp count: 943/10cm
Weft count: 366/10cm
Fabric width: 140cm
Mi Chong: 175g/m
Its master operation comprises:
1) bar dyes combing
Dyeing → after backwashing → silver mixing → grilling → combing → grilling → slivering
2) wool spinning spinning
Silver mixing → scalp acupuncture → two pins → three pins → four pins → rove → spun yarn → from winder → yarn steaming
3) weave
Silkworm immersing raw silk → warping → gait → plug in reed → weave → base inspection → life is repaiied
4) dyeing and finishing
Come unstuck → open washing → baking → typing → dyeing → open washing → baking → middle inspection → bristle → cropping → dewing → preshrunk → finished product
Baking for the first time: 120 ℃ of temperature, last gate width of cloth 150cm, last overfeeding 10%, following overfeeding 8%, hairbrush overfeeding 10%, following gate width of cloth 151-152cm, 30 meters/minute of speed,
Dyeing: adopt the secondary decoration method, dye hair earlier, the after stain silk dyes the Mao Shiyong orchid and receives free and easy dyestuff, reinforced in the time of 40 ℃, temperature rises to 100 ℃ of insulations 60 minutes, and cooling is filtered, after swell dyestuff with the vapour Bark again and dye silk, temperature rises to 60 ℃ of insulations and filters out dye vat, twice of open washing after 60 minutes
Baking for the second time: 120 ℃ of temperature, last gate width of cloth 148cm, last overfeeding 10%, following overfeeding 8%, hairbrush overfeeding 10%, following gate width of cloth 150-151cm, 30 meters/minute of speed,
Flat boiling: 95 ℃ of crabbing temperature, fast 30m/min,
Typing: 170 ℃ of temperature, fast 20m/min, overfeeding 5%, last gate width of cloth 150cm, following gate width of cloth 152cm,
Preshrunk: moisture regain 8%, 10 meters/minute of speed, overfeeding 10%.
CN201010233310.XA 2010-07-21 2010-07-21 Production method of broken filament jacquard tweed Pending CN101906693A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201010233310.XA CN101906693A (en) 2010-07-21 2010-07-21 Production method of broken filament jacquard tweed

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201010233310.XA CN101906693A (en) 2010-07-21 2010-07-21 Production method of broken filament jacquard tweed

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN101906693A true CN101906693A (en) 2010-12-08

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Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102828330A (en) * 2012-09-17 2012-12-19 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Production method of all-wool yarn knitted fabric
WO2013177747A1 (en) * 2012-05-28 2013-12-05 Zhu Yulan High-moisture conduction yarn-dyed fabric
CN103541101A (en) * 2013-10-18 2014-01-29 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof
CN103774319A (en) * 2012-10-18 2014-05-07 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Production method for spun-silk wool blended worsted fabrics
CN104278396A (en) * 2013-07-02 2015-01-14 江苏金太阳纺织科技有限公司 Real silk and wool interwoven jacquard fabric for home textiles and manufacturing method of real silk and wool interwoven jacquard fabric
CN104389079A (en) * 2014-12-22 2015-03-04 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Preparation method of natural and comfortable elastic tweed
CN104790092A (en) * 2015-04-03 2015-07-22 江阴市红柳被单厂有限公司 Silk wool fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN105401295A (en) * 2015-10-21 2016-03-16 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Manufacturing method for fabric with antibacterial and health care effects
CN108060497A (en) * 2018-01-29 2018-05-22 兰州三毛实业股份有限公司 A kind of production method of super black wool worsted face fabric
CN108977989A (en) * 2018-09-14 2018-12-11 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 The production technology of the goth black worsted fabric of heavy twist single-warp single-abb
CN109023637A (en) * 2018-09-20 2018-12-18 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Silk wool fancy suiting and preparation method thereof

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CN101225568A (en) * 2008-01-30 2008-07-23 张建平 Production method of rabbit hair, cashmere and silk three-in-one face fabric

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CN101225568A (en) * 2008-01-30 2008-07-23 张建平 Production method of rabbit hair, cashmere and silk three-in-one face fabric

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Cited By (21)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013177747A1 (en) * 2012-05-28 2013-12-05 Zhu Yulan High-moisture conduction yarn-dyed fabric
CN103938353B (en) * 2012-09-17 2016-06-01 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that dyeing step is less
CN103938353A (en) * 2012-09-17 2014-07-23 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Producing method of pure wool yarn knitting fabric with less dyeing steps
CN103938352A (en) * 2012-09-17 2014-07-23 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Pure-wool yarn knitted fabric production method capable of protecting wool against damage
CN103938354A (en) * 2012-09-17 2014-07-23 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Producing method of pure wool yarn knitting fabric with good rebound resilience
CN103938352B (en) * 2012-09-17 2015-07-15 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Pure-wool yarn knitted fabric production method capable of protecting wool against damage
CN102828330A (en) * 2012-09-17 2012-12-19 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Production method of all-wool yarn knitted fabric
CN103938354B (en) * 2012-09-17 2016-02-10 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 The production method of the full wool wool yarn knitted fabric that fabric resilience is good
CN103774319B (en) * 2012-10-18 2015-08-26 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 The production method of spun silk wool blend worsted fabric
CN103774319A (en) * 2012-10-18 2014-05-07 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 Production method for spun-silk wool blended worsted fabrics
CN104278396A (en) * 2013-07-02 2015-01-14 江苏金太阳纺织科技有限公司 Real silk and wool interwoven jacquard fabric for home textiles and manufacturing method of real silk and wool interwoven jacquard fabric
CN104278396B (en) * 2013-07-02 2016-11-23 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 Real silk-Pilus Caprae seu Ovis intertexture jacquard fabric for home textile and preparation method thereof
CN103541101B (en) * 2013-10-18 2015-08-12 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof
CN103541101A (en) * 2013-10-18 2014-01-29 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Ultrahigh-count wool/cashmere single-warp single-weft and production method thereof
CN104389079A (en) * 2014-12-22 2015-03-04 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 Preparation method of natural and comfortable elastic tweed
CN104790092A (en) * 2015-04-03 2015-07-22 江阴市红柳被单厂有限公司 Silk wool fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN104790092B (en) * 2015-04-03 2017-01-18 江阴市红柳被单厂有限公司 Silk wool fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN105401295A (en) * 2015-10-21 2016-03-16 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Manufacturing method for fabric with antibacterial and health care effects
CN108060497A (en) * 2018-01-29 2018-05-22 兰州三毛实业股份有限公司 A kind of production method of super black wool worsted face fabric
CN108977989A (en) * 2018-09-14 2018-12-11 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 The production technology of the goth black worsted fabric of heavy twist single-warp single-abb
CN109023637A (en) * 2018-09-20 2018-12-18 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 Silk wool fancy suiting and preparation method thereof

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Application publication date: 20101208