Lamb - The Good Cook Series
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~amb
BY
THE EDITO RS O FTI ME-LIFE BOOKS
TIME INCORPORATED
Founder: Henry R. Luce 1898-1967
Editor-in-ChieF, Henry Anatole Grunwald
President, J. Richard Munro
Chairman of the Boord, Rolph P. Davidson
Executive Vice President, Clifford J. Grum
Choirmon, Executive Committee: James R. Shepley
Editorial Director, Rolph Groves
Group Vice President, Books, Joan D. Manley
Vice Chairman, Arthur Tem pie
Davidson, o former member of the British Diplomatic Service, is the author of several cookbooks and
t he founder of Prospect Books, which specializes
in scholarly publications about food and cookery.
FRANCE: Michel Lemonnier, the cofounder and vice
president of Les Amities Gostronomiques lnternotionoles, is o frequent lecturer on wine and vineyards. GERMANY: Jochen Kuchenbecker trained as o
chef, but worked lor 10 years as o food photographer in several European countries before opening
his own restaurant in Homburg. Anne Brokemeier is
the co-author of o number of co okbooks. ITALY:
Massimo Alberini is o well- known food writer and
journa list, with o particular interest in culinary history. H is many books include Storio del Pronzo all' Italiano, 4000 Anni a Tovola and 100 Ricette Storiche.
THE NETHERLANDS: Hugh Jons has published cookbooks and h is reci pes hove appeared in several
Dutch magazines. THE UNITED STATES: Fronfois Dionot,
o graduate of L'Ecole des Hoteliers de Lausanne in
Switzerland, ha s worked as o chef, hotel general
manager and restauran t manager in the United
States and in France. He conducts his own cooking
school in Ma ryland. He has been responsible lor
many of the step-by-step pho tographic seq uences
in thi s volume. Judith Olney, author of Comforting
Food and Summer Food, received her culinary training in England and France. In addition to conducting cooking classe s, she regularly writes articles lor
gastronomic magazines.
Carol Cutler is the author of o number of cookbooks, including the award-winning The Six-Minute
Souffle and Other Culinary Delights. During the 12
years she lived in France, she st udied at the Cordon Bleu and the Eco le des Trois Gourmondes,
and with private chefs. She is o member of the
Cercle des Gourmettes, o long-established French
food society limited to just 50 members, and is also
o charter member of Les Domes d'Escoffier, Washington Chapter.
SPECIAL CONSULTANT
tographer with the Royal Air Force and with the Regent Street Polytechnic in London. He specializes in
food and still-life photography lor both advertising
and editorial use.
-----------------------CONTENTS-----------------------
IN TRODUCTION 5
ROASTING 29
1
2
3
POACHI N G A ND BRAISING 49
6Ll
ANTHOLOGY OF RECIPES 87
- - - - - - - - - - - I NTRODUCTIO N - - - - --
-----
cA Meat
INTRODUCTION
year all the way from the Pyrenees, where they summered on
the French border, to winter feeding grounds in the southern
part of the Iberian Peninsula, a distance of more than 500 miles.
Such strenuous exercise naturally made the animals muscular
and their flesh stringy.
During the late Renaissance, however , some farmers began
experimenting with crossbreeding and improved feeding methods for sheep, a ll with an eye to obtaining tender and abundant
meat along with a good yield of wool. By the 18th Century, the
practice had become widespread, and even King Louis XV of
France had an experimental flock. His son referred to th e animals as "walking cutlets."
The most serious and productive experimentation in crossbreeding and feeding took place in 18th Century England, led
by a breeder named Robert Bakewell. "Symmetry, well rounded" was Bakewell's motto, and thanks to his work, English
sheep developed into chunky, compact a nimals that provided a
plenitude of flavorful meat.
Lamb in America
lower. Ground lamb will last only four months in a freezer. Any
frozen meat should be defrosted in the refrigerator so that the
ice crystals formed by the meat juices melt slowly, allowing the
meat to reabsorb its juices instead of drying out. Allow four to
seven hours per pound for defrosting.
Prepare the meat carefully for cooking. If you happen to find
baby lamb or kid, you will have to add fat to the meat; otherwise,
the lean flesh of these young animals will dry out during cooking. The meat may be larded with pork fat, available from
butchers. Or, for a particularly delicious flavor, wrap the baby
lamb or kid in caul, as demonstrated on page 47. All other lamb
or mutton must be carefully trimmed of fat before cooking:
Lamb fat has a waxy flavor, and too much of it will give the meat
a disagreeable tang.
Lamb meat is covered by a papery surface membrane called
the fell. This membrane, which lies between the skin and flesh
oflive animals, is left on large cuts by most butchers as a protective covering for the tender meat. Do not remove the fell from
such large cuts as legs: It helps them retain their shape and
juiciness during cooking. Any fell found on small cuts of lamb
such as chops should be removed: The membrane shrinks somewhat during the cooking period and could distort the shape of
the small meat pieces.
Because the lamb sold today comes from young animals bred
for tenderness, most cuts may be cooked by the so-called dryheat cooking methods-roasting, grilling, broiling and frying,
all of which apply heat in the absence (or near absence) ofliquid.
The shape and thickness of a particular cut should determine
which cooking approach you choose. Large cuts such as rib
roasts, loins and legs are best roasted: The enveloping heat penetrates their irregular shapes most evenly. Smaller cuts such as
steaks or chops can be grilled, broiled or fried.
These methods produce delectable results when the meat is
discreetly perfumed with herbs, especially those of the labiate
family, so called because their leaves are thought to resemble
lips. The group includes thyme, savory, marjoram and oregano.
The pungent flavors of rosemary and dill, used with restraint,
also combine happily with the richness of roast lamb.
Large cuts such as boned legs and foresaddles can be stuffed,
offering wide opportunities for imaginative flavoring. Stuffings
may be based on sweet ingredients such as fruit or chestnuts, on
aromatic ones such as garlic and onion, or they can be hearty
mixtures containing meats such as pork and ham.
Whether the meat is roasted, grilled, broiled or fried , it will
be at its succulent best when it is still pink, or rare. With a
longer cooking time, the meat becomes drier and a good deal of
its flavor vanishes.
As a general rule, the moist-heat cooking methods, poaching and braising, are best suited to firmer cuts oflamb- breast,
shank and shoulder. These cuts profit from the tenderizing action of long, slow simmering. As a bonus, lamb braises and
stews permit the blending of the meat's flavor with those of
other ingredients for rich and subtle effects. Lamb braises frequently include aromatic vegetables such as carrots, onions and
turnips, for instance, but they can also be given unusual, spicy
accents by seasonings such as cloves, cinnamon and ginger, as
in classic Indian curries. Another traditional approach is to include bland, starchy ingredients- beans in France, potatoes in
Ireland-which acquire distinction as they absorb the meat
juices and flavors.
Wine with lamb
The wines most often chosen to accompany lamb are red. But
which red wine is best depends on how the meat is seasoned,
cooked and garnished. As a general rule, serve the finest and
most complex wines with simple dishes, which will not distract
the palate from the subtleties of the wine; serve complex lamb
dishes with uncomplicated wines. Any honest red wine serves
as a good complement to roast lamb, but nothing softens the
INTRODUCTION
Rolled boneless
shoulder roast
Shoulder-blade
chop
Kebabs
Ground lamb
.,
Shank
Spareribs
loin cho p
leg of lamb
Sirloin chop
Cubed steak
Shank-half roast
INTRODUCTION
Leg bone
(
Hindshank bone
Achilles tendon
Tarsal bone
11
INTRODUCTION
Blade bone
12
10
0r1
13
INTRO DUCTION
A dry marinade. Place the meat in this insta nce, leg steaks - in a dish just
Iorge enough to ho ld it easily. Slather
the surfaces of the meat with a mixture of
oil, lemo n juice, d ried or freshly
cho p ped herbs such as thyme, rosemary
or the dill shown here, and seasonings
such as salt, pepper or dry musta rd.
Strew sp rigs of fresh herbs ove r the
to p. Cover the meat and let it absorb the
flavors of the marinade. Before
cooking, brush off the herb sprigs.
An Eclectic Blend
Season
the mixture with salt ond pepper.
Work the ingredients together
until the seasonings, egg and meat
ore evenly distributed. The
mixture should be moist but firm .
Kneading. Thoroughly
amalgamate all of the ingredients to
make a loose, fairly light mixture.
If you want a heavier stuffing, knead
in fresh bread crumbs and bind
the mixture with an egg.
15
- -- - - - 1 - 'rilling, ~roil~g
and ~rytng
Swift Cooking for Gf'ender Cuts
When lamb or mutton is cooked by dry heat, the surfaces turn crisp and
brown while the interior remains juicy and pink. Roasting produces this
delicious contrast for large cuts of meat (pages 29-46); for smaller ones, it
can be achieved by any of three cooking methods: grilling, broiling or
frying. All three methods apply dry heat from a single direction, either
above or below the meat.
In grilling, the meat is cooked on a rack set directly over charcoal
embers. Broiling usually is done on a rack or pan set under an oven
broiler, although a ridged-griddle pan (opposite) can be used to accomplish the same results on the stove top. Before meat can be grilled or
broiled, it must be slathered with oil or bathed in an oil-based marinade
(page 14) to prevent it from sticking to the rack or pan. Before frying, oil
or a fat such as butter is heated in a skillet or saute pan instead of being
applied to the meat; because the meat is then cooked without water,
wine, stock or other liquid, frying is technically a dry-heat rather than
moist-heat method.
With any dry-heat method, the meat is seared quickly at high temperatures to brown the surfaces. For pieces no more than 1 inch [2 2 em.]
thick, searing on both sides may be sufficient to cook the interiors to pink
perfection. For pieces from 1 to 3 inches [22 to 8 em.] thick, additional
cooking at a lower temperature is necessary.
In all cases, cooking must be kept as brief as possible to retain the
meat's natural juices. For this reason, direct dry-heat methods are best
suited to tender lamb and mutton cuts of uniform thickness: loin, rib,
sirloin or leg steaks and chops, and the cubes used for kebabs. Unless
ground and formed into sausage shapes (pages 22-23) or hamburgerlike patties, tougher cuts would not soften and become succulent in the
time allowed; bulky or irregularly shaped cuts would burn before their
interiors were cooked.
Any cut will take longer to cook through if the meat is chilled; it
should therefore be removed from the refrigerator and brought to room
temperature (about 70 F. [20 C.]) in advance. The time required for
warming it will vary with the thickness of the cut and the heat of the
kitchen: As a rule, the process will take from 15 to 30 minutes in a warm
kitchen, about an hour in a cool one.
17
Trimming the chops. Ask the butcher to cut loin chops about
3 inches [8 em.] thick and to leave the a prons long. Cut away the fat
from the angle between the apro n and the body o f each chop
(above, left). Turn the chop over and, with your knife, loosen the fat
from the bock of the cho p, starting at the thick end (right). Pull the
loosened fat aw ay from the meat with your fingers.
Grilling the meat. Place the chops over the high heat of a
thoroughly preheated grill. Using the rosemary twig or tongs to turn
each chop, sear the two flat sides (above, left) for about 10
minutes in all; then sear the curved, apron-wrapped sides. Reduce
the heat and grill the chops, apron sides down, turning them
regularly to expose all ports of their aprons to the heat ogoin (right).
Baste the chops occasionally with oil from the marinade.
19
20
Searing. Set the broiler rock and pan on a shelf about 3 inches
[8 em.] from the heat source if the meat is no more than 1 inch [2 Y2
em.] thick. for 2-inch [5-cm.] steaks o r chops, the shelf should be
4 inches [1 0 em.] from the heat. Preheat the broiler at its highest
setting for 15 minutes. Discord the sprigs of dill and place the
steaks on the broiler rock. After the first side has browned, turn the
meat with tongs (above) or a fork inserted into a fatty edge.
21
Threading the skewers. Oil flatbladed skewers and thread them with
alternating lomb cubes and zucc hini
slices. Suspend the kebobs over a baking
pan (above). Brush the meat and
vegetables with oil and sprinkle on salt
and chopped herbs - in this case,
thyme, savory, marjoram and oregano.
23
'
5
24
Deglazing the pan. Pour the lemon juice over the meat and
garnish. Add a generous splash o f water or, as here, white wine
(above, left) . With a wooden spoon, stir the liquid as it comes to
a boil and scrape the pan to loosen the meaty d eposits (right).
Sauteing the meat. Season the pieces of lamb with salt and
pepper, and dust them with flour. Heat a little o il or butter in a heavy
pan over high heat and put in the lamb pieces (above, left). Sear
them for about two minutes, then turn them over w ith a spatula or
fork {right). Sear the other side. Reduce the heat to medium.
25
Preparing rib chops. W ith a sha rp knife, trim off the fat from
around ea ch of the cho ps, leaving a border only Y4 inch [6 mm.]
wide. Then pa re a nd scrape a ll of the fat a nd meat from the la st
2 inches [5 em.] o f the rib bone to clean it completely. Save the
meat trimmings for later use in stuffing s a nd stews.
26
27
-----~--
~asting
c.A Range of ~ffects
from ~lemental to Opulent
ROASTIN G
l
30
31
ROASTING
6
32
Carving the rounded side of the leg. Snip off the strings
and discard them. Gripping the manche gigot, lift the shank end
slightly to tilt the meat. Start carving from the rounded side of
the leg(above, left). Slice the meat thin - always cutting away from
yourself and keeping the knife blade almost parallel to the bone.
33
ROASTING
them; a stuffed foresaddle (pages 4243) -an exceptionally dense roast should finish cooking, after searing, at
325 F. [160 C.] instead of350 F .
Baby lamb, whether whole or cut up,
is too delicate to be seared and tastes
best well done. Roast it for 15 minutes
per pound at a constant heat of350o F.
Because roasting times provide only
an estimate of the meat's doneness, test
the internal temperature with athermometer. Lamb is rare at 140 F. [60
C.], medium at 150 F. [65 C.] and well
done at 160 F. [70 C.].
You may test with a standard meat
thermometer, inserting it when the
meat is about three quarters done, but
the tip will form a hole. Or you can
use a rapid-response thermometer; it is
pushed in and pulled out so fast that
the hole it forms closes. Insert either
kind in the fleshiest part of the roast ,
avoiding stuffing, fat or bone, which
heat at different rates from flesh.
35
ROASTING
4
36
Roasting. Rub the tied meat with o il and set it in a baking dish
or roosting pan. Roast in a preheated 450 F. [230 C.] oven for 10
minutes. Then reduce the heat to 350 F. [180 C.]. Baste the
meat with its juices every 15 minutes. About 30 minutes before the
roast is done (box, page 34), surround it with unpeeled shallots.
When the lamb is done, rest it on a cutting board for 10 minutes.
37
ROASTING
38
39
ROASTING
40
41
ROASTING
6
42
10
11
43
ROASTING
5
44
45
ROASTING
3
46
47
- - -- - 3 -~oaching
and ~raising
Tenderizing with Moist Heat
The combined application of moisture and gentle heat will make even
the firmest cuts of lamb or mutton tender and juicy. Two cooking techniques that employ this principle are poaching and braising. Both methods use liquid held at a bare simmer; they differ chiefly in that poaching
requires enough liquid to cover the meat, whereas braising uses only
enough to keep the meat moist. Stewing is a form of braising; the term
simply means that the meat is first cut into small pieces.
The cuts of lamb or mutton that benefit from moist heat are the
shoulder, breast, shank and neck, all of which contain hard-worked muscles rich in connective tissue. When such cuts are poached or braised,
much of the connective tissue is broken down into gelatin, which makes
the meat tender; at the same time, fat melts to baste the meat from
within. The process is a slow one: In most cases, at least one and one half
hours of cooking are needed to achieve full tenderness.
Naturally tender cuts, on the other hand, produce little if any gelatin.
But the lean meat of a leg or loin has enough streaks of internal fat, or
marbling, to keep it juicy when poached to the rare stage (pages 50-51} .
The liquid for poaching lamb is most often water. By the end of the
cooking, water becomes a savory broth, redolent of the meat. Lightly
thickened with egg yolks or flour or both, the broth can yield an aromatic
sauce (page 51) . Water is also commonly used for braising lamb. However, the liquid from a marinade (page 14), the pulp of tomatoes, wine,
stock, or a mixture of these may be substituted to enhance the dish. In
many braises and stews, the liquid gains added flavor from a preliminary
searing of the lamb: The crusty brown fragments deposited on the bottom
of the pan dissolve when liquid is stirred into them. At the end of the
braising, the liquid-now a complex essence of all the elements in the
braise- is reduced and cleansed of fatty particles to form a rich sauce
(page 60) or to burnish the meat with a mahogany glaze (pages 66-67).
When lamb is poached or braised, it is usually accompanied by aromatic vegetables such as onions and carrots, which add their own flavors
to the liquid and are then generally discarded and replaced with fresh
vegetables (pages 61-62). However, in some dishes-especially in a
daube (opposite) -the original aromatic vegetables are left to merge
into the liquid and become an integral part of the finished braise.
49
POACHING AN D BRAISING
50
A Piquant Partner
Flavoring the sauce. Return the pan to the heat and bring
the sauce to a boil. It should be thin and creamy; if it is too thick, odd
more poaching liquid. To rid the sauce of any floury taste,
reduce the heat to low, place the pan half off the heat and simmer
the sauce for about 40 minutes, skimming it several times. Beat
egg yolks lightly w ith strained lemon juice. Blend a little sauce into
the yolks to worm them. Then, off the heat, whisk the yolks into
the sauce (above, left) . Put the pan bock on low heat and stir the
sauce until it thickens, but do not let it boil. Finally, rinse and drain
capers, and stir them into the sauce (right) .
51
52
53
ll
54
10
55
- -. -...'_,
}
'
4
56
__,/
\.__)
57
59
3
60
Deglazing the pan. Sprinkle sugar over the lomb pieces; turn
them gently with a wooden spoon until the sugar caramelizes.
Sprinkle flour over the lomb (above, left). Again, turn the meat
pieces several times to brown all of the flour. Return the carrots and
onions to the pan; mix them with the meal. Pour white wine over the
meal and vegetables. Scrape the pan to loosen the caramelized
deposits, and blend them into the cooking liquid (right) . ..,.
61
62
Add quartered
tomatoes, garlic and a fresh bouquet
gorni to the stew. Ladle a small amount of
cooking liquid from the beans into the
stew, but leave enough liquid to keep the
beans submerged . If more b raising liquid
is needed, odd water.
Melding the flavors. Pour the cleansed sauce over the meat
and beans. If necessary, odd some of the reserved cooking liquid
from the beans. Cook the stew over gentle heat for about 30
minutes to mingle the flavors of a ll the ingredients. Lift the meat onto
wormed serving plates; cover each portion with a generous
helping of the beans and sauce.
63
64
65
5
66
67
The cook who ranges beyond the basic techniques for preparing lambbroiling, frying, roasting, poaching and braising-will discover a territory full of variety and new delights. Lamb can be pureed, for example,
and blended with cracked wheat to produce a Lebanese version of meat
loaf (pages 82-83). Or two cooking methods can be conjoined: Poaching
followed by broiling ensures that lamb breast is juicy within and crisp on
the outside (pages 80-81). And some of the most rewarding dishes can be
created from that humblest of starting points- leftovers.
Leftover lamb deserves-and indeed requires-at least as much attention as fresh meat; carelessly reheated meat can be tough. To understand why, consider the two structura l components of lean meat and
what happens to them during the first cooking. The two components are
the muscle fibers and the tough connective tissue-largely composed of
a substance called collagen-that holds the fibers together. Cooking
meat to an internal temperature of 160 F. [70 C.] will shrink the muscle
fibers and rob them of juices, thus toughening them. However, further
cooking- particularly moist cooking - to 175 F. [80 C.] or higher will
convert much of the collagen to semiliquid gelatin, compensating for the
loss of juice from the muscle fibers and making the meat tender.
Leftover meat that was cooked initially by poaching or braisingboth involving the slow application ofheat in the presence of moisturehas become rich in gelatin and can be reheated with no danger of toughening. But meat cooked by the quicker methods of roasting or broiling, or
by the brief poaching sometimes given to a prime cut (pages 50-51), is
ready to serve at an internal temperature ofl40 F. [60 C.], before much
gelatin has formed; if cooked further during reheating, the meat is likely
to toughen and become dry.
One straightforward way to keep roasted or broiled meat tender is to
warm it cautiously, as demonstrated on pages 50-51. The other approach
is to cook the leftovers long enough to convert their collagen into tenderizing gelatin: Large chunks of meat will require a second cooking of
about one and one h alf hours; finely chopped meat will need 20 to
30 minutes. With this technique, the dishes you can make with leftover
roasted or broiled meat range from a rustic lamb-and-vegetable pie
(pages 74-75) to the spectacular eggplant-sheathed mold shown opposite.
69
5
70
71
l
72
73
A Background of Rice
74
Serving. Cook the pilaf, tossing the ing redients frequently, for
two or three minutes, o r until they are warmed th rough . Take the
pan off the heat (inset) and serve the pilaf on warmed individual
plates. Offer plain yogurt (above) sepa rately, so that diners can
spoon it onto the savory mixture themselves.
75
6
76
77
EXTENSIO NS AN D ENCORES
5
78
Lining the mold. Season all of the eggplant pieces and saute
them in oil - a small batch at a time - until they ore browned on
both sides. Drain them on paper towels. Place the quarter ovals
on the bottom of the mold, overlapping each slice slightly(above,
left) . Overlap the larger strips vertica lly against the sides of the
mold and press them gently to stick them to the metal, aligning them
w here possible with the slices used to line the bottom (right).
From the pieces that we re set aside, reserve the largest o f the slices
to top the mold; cho p the rest fine.
79
5
80
81
6
82
Making the paste. Knead the uncooked lamb and the bulgur
until thoroughly blended into a thick paste. If you wish, add butter
for a moister finished dish. Butter or oil a large rectangular baking
dish. Put one half of the paste into the dish. With your finger tips,
flatten the paste until it is spread evenly on the bottom of the dish.
83
6
84
85
3
86
Coating the meatballs. Mix chickpea flour with just enough water to form a
thick batter. Using your fingers, press a
thin, even layer of this batter onto all
sides of each meatball. Place the
meatballs on a baking sheet or a piece of
wax paper, and allow the coating to dry
for about 15 minutes.
c.A.nthology
of~cipes
88
Frying
91
Roasting
98
Poaching, Braising
and Stewing
111
Leftovers and
Mixed Methods
146
Standard Preparations
164
Recipe Index
168
87
4 to 61b.
lamb shoulder
Y2
cup
2 to 3 kg.
8
125 mi.
melt the butter and cook the parsley, scallions and mushrooms in it until all of the mushroom liquid has evaporated.
Sprinkle on the flour, and stir in the stock and Champagne
or white wine. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Cook until the sauce is reduced and thickened. Remove the
sauce from the heat.
When the shoulder is cooked, after about 40 minutes,
remove it from the spit. Cut the meat off the bones and chop
it coarse. Stir the chopped meat into the sauce mixture. Beat
the egg yolks and cream together and stir them into the
mixture; reheat the sauce without letting it boil. Add the
lemon juice and keep the mixture warm.
Coat the chops with bread crumbs, making sure that all
of the salt-pork mixture adheres, and grill them over coals
for five to 10 minutes on each side, or until golden brown.
To serve, place the sauced, chopped meat in the center of
a large, heated serving dish. Surround with croutons, then
with the chops. You may sprinkle the chops with lemon juice
if it is desired.
LE MANUEL DE LA FRIANDISE
scallions, chopped
fresh mushrooms, finely chopped
(about 1 Y2 cups [375 mi.])
45 mi.
butter, melted
Cotelettes de Mouton
125 g.
30 mi.
To serve 6
3 tbsp.
125 g.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
chopped scallions
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
flou r
30 mi.
1 cup
Y4
Y2
cup
liter
125 mi.
Y2
egg yolks
cup
4 tbsp.
heavy cream
strai ned lemon juice
3
125 mi.
60 mi.
45 mi.
60 mi.
Mushroom sauce
cayenne pepper
12 tbsp.
butter, melted
2 tbsp.
180 mi.
3
30 mi.
Kuzu Pirzolasi
To serve 4
To serve 4
sa lt and pepper
butter
4 tbsp.
medium-sized onion
60 mi.
5 mi.
1 tsp.
salt
2 tb sp .
olive oil
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
parsley sprigs
Grate the onion and sprinkle the salt over it. Leave for 10
minu tes. Squeeze the onion between your palms to extract
the j uice. Add the juice to the olive oil. Lay the chops on wax
paper. Rub the onion-juice mixture onto both sides of the
chops. Sprinkle the thyme on both sides. Cover the chops
with wax paper and leave them for two hours.
Grill, preferably over hot coals, placing the chops 3
inches [8 em.] from the heat. Grill for five minutes on each
side. Arrange the chops on a platter; garnish with parsley.
NE$ETEREN
THE ART OF TURKISH COOKING
Charcoal-broiled Lamb
Agneddu Arrustutu 'nta Braci
To serve 8
41b.
2 kg.
Schaschliks a la Tatare
To serve 4
sprig rosemary
1 lb.
Garlic marinade
garlic cloves, crushed
1 Y2 cups
white wine
375 mi.
Y2 cup
o live oil
125 mi.
6 tbsp.
1 tsp.
dried oregano
2 tsp.
90 mi.
grated nutmeg
Sml.
1 tsp.
thyme
Y4
cup
5 mi.
Y2 kg.
50 mi.
oil
onion, sliced
% lb.
125 g.
% lb.
125 g.
10ml.
PI NO CORRENTI
IL LIBRO D'ORO DELLA CUCINA E DEl VINI D1 S ICILIA
A. PETIT
LA GASTRONOMIE EN RUSSIE
89
the cumin, ginger, pepper and cayenne. Mix the whole well,
then put the meat on skewers, a piece of fat and lean alternately. There is sufficient for nine skewers. Set these over
charcoal or under a broiler, turning frequently for 10 minutes, when the meat should be ready to eat.
JOHN , FOURTH MARQUIS OF BUTE (EDITOR)
MOORISH RECIPES
To serve 4
1 Y2 lb.
1 lb.
small tomatoes
1 tsp.
ground ginger
5 mi.
1 tsp.
pepper
5 mi.
/4 kg.
Sate Madoera
To serve 4
Mutton Kebabs
Y2 kg.
4
Grind the garlic, ginger and pepper to a paste and rub this
mixture well into the meat. Leave for at least two hours. The
meat will exude som e liquid.
Drain the pieces of meat a nd thread t hem onto skewers.
Brushing the meat occasionally with the marinade, grill for
a bout five minutes over low heat, then for five to 10 minutes
more over the hottest part of the fire.
BEB VU YK
GROOT INDONESISCH KOOKBOEK
To serve 3
Kebab Aserbeidschan
Y2 lb .
% kg .
Y2 lb.
% kg .
leek, chopped
1 tbsp.
1 tsp.
salt
5 mi.
1 tsp.
ground cumin
5 mi.
1 tsp.
ground ginger
5 mi.
1 tsp.
5 mi.
1 tsp.
cayenne pepper
5 mi.
15 mi.
1 kg .
2 1b.
eggs
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
175 mi.
oil
finely cut chives
~rying
LILO AUREDEN
DAS SCHMECKT SO GUT
Mutton Chops
To serve 6
mutton chops
salt
cayenne pepper
1 tbsp.
Kefta
In Morocco, all kebabs are grilled over embers. To reach the
ember stage, the ch arcoal must be lighted at least 30 minutes in advance.
To serve 4
1 lb.
Y2
Y4
125 g.
lb.
kg.
4 tbsp.
15ml.
125 mi.
60 mi.
butter
%cup
175 mi.
%cup
175 mi.
onio n, chopped
1Y2 tsp.
ground cu min
1 tbsp.
paprika
Y4
cayen ne pepper
1 mi.
1 tsp.
5 mi.
12
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Y2
tsp.
olive oil
1
7 mi.
15 mi.
salt
To serve 4
small lamb rib chops
12
flour
125 mi.
7 tbsp.
o live oil
105 mi.
cup
Mix all of the ingr edients together and put the mixture
through the food grinder twice. Knead the mixture well with
your hands and let it rest for about one hour.
Lightly moisten your hands, take a lump of the mixture
the size of an egg and mold it around a skewer, shaping it
into a sausage 4 to 5 inches [10 to 13 em.] long . Make sure the
meat sticks well at each end, so that it will not turn around
the skewer during cooking. Repeat with the remaining mixture; you will have 12 to 16 kebabs on separate skewers.
Grill over coals or broil under a preheated broiler, turning the skewers once or twice for about 10 minutes, depending on the desired degree of doneness. The outside should be
well browned, but do not let the meat dry out.
Lightly flour the chops. In a large skillet, heat the oil with
the chili, then remove the chili. Brown the chops on both
sides over high heat. Season with salt, and add the olives,
oregano and lemon juice. Bring to a boil and serve very hot.
salt
1 cup
% tsp.
oregano
3 tbsp.
% liter
1 mi.
45 mi.
91
FRYING
OFFRAY AINE
LE CUISINIER MERIDIONAL
5 tbsp.
olive oil
3
3
onions, chopped
Creole Chops
garlic cloves
6
75 mi.
12
To serve 4
12
8
scallions, chopped
eggs
In a large, heavy pan, heat the oil and saute the chops for five
minutes on each side. Remove the chops from the pan. Add
the peppers and cook for 10 minutes. Add the onions and
garlic, and cook for five minutes more. Add the tomatoes and
the eggplant. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne pepper.
Cook the vegetables, uncovered, over very low heat for one
hour, or until all excess liquid has evaporated and the mixture is reduced to a thick puree. Five minutes before serving,
return the chops to the pan and spoon the puree over them.
One at a time, break the eggs into a bowl and slide them into
the pan. Cook for five minutes, or until the whites are set.
IRENE AND LUCIENNE KARSENTY
LA CUISINE PIED NOIR
eggs
2 tbsp.
mil k
30 mi.
3 tbsp.
flour
45 mi.
3Y2 cups
2 tbsp.
oil
875 mi.
10 tbsp.
butter
150 mi.
%cup
150 mi.
Y2 cup
125 mi.
Melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter and dip the chops
into it. Coat them with Parmesan cheese. Dip the chops into
the eggs, then coat them with bread crumbs.
30 mi.
Mix the lime or lemon juice, garlic, scallions, and salt and
pepper. Place the chops in this mixture, turn them over and
let them marinate for one hour. Pat the chops dry with towels. Beat the eggs with the milk. Dip both sides of each chop
into the flour, then into the egg mixture and finally into the
bread crumbs.
Heat the oil in a large skillet, add the chops and fry over
medium heat for about four minutes on each side, or until
well browned and cooked through. Serve garnished with the
lime or lemon slices and chopped parsley.
CHRISTIANE ROY-CAMILLE AND ANNICK MARIE
LES MEILLEURES RECETTES DE LA CUISINE ANTILLAISE
To serve 4
92
7 tbsp.
olive oil
2 tbsp.
flour
% kg .
105 mi.
30 mi.
Y4 liter
1 cup
% tsp.
o regano
2 tbsp.
1Y2 tbsp.
30 mi.
22 mi.
Heat the oil in a skillet. Flour the lamb slices lightly, and
brown in the oil on both sides over high heat for up to five
minutes. Sprinkle the lamb with salt and drain off any excess fat. Reduce the heat and add the olives, orega no, green
pepper and lemon juice. Cook over medium heat for a few
minutes, until the lamb is just pink in the center. Arrange
the slices of meat on a heated serving platter, and spoon the
garnish over the top.
WAVERLEY ROOT
THE BEST OF ITALIAN COOKING
175 mi.
10 oz.
1 lb.
[2 Y2 -em.] slices
4 tbsp.
8
2
butter
small boiling onions
medium -sized carrots, cut into ova l
shapes
300 g.
onion, chopped
60 mi.
8
2
Y2 cup
Y2 cup
1 mi.
2
125 mi.
125 mi.
45 to 60 mi.
Pesto
1 cup
2 tbsp.
Y4 liter
30 mi.
3 to 4 tbsp. o live o il
45 to 60 mi.
For the pesto, chop the basil, fat and garlic together until
very fine. Pound in a mortar, working in the olive oil until a
smooth paste is formed.
Melt h alf of the butter, add the vegetables, cover and
cook over low heat- shaking the pan occasionally- for 10
to 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are just tender.
Heat the remaining butter and quickly saute the pieces
of lamb, keeping them pink inside. Add the vegetables and
cook together for a minute or two, adding the lamb stock, a
spoonful at a t ime, to make a light sauce.
Little by little, add the pesto to the pan, shaking to incorporate it and to form a smooth sauce. Serve immediately.
ROBERT COURTINE
MES REP AS LES PLUS ETONNANTS
93
FRYI NG
Y2 lb.
%kg.
2 tbsp.
soy sauce
30ml.
Y2
salt
tsp.
2 mi.
I tbsp.
15 mi.
Y2
Y2
tsp.
2 mi.
cup
peanut oil
125 mi.
1 tbsp.
block vinegar
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
sesame-seed oil
15ml.
3 tbsp.
sliced garlic
45 mi.
Y2
Y4 kg .
scallions, halved lengthwise, then
cut crosswise into diagonal pieces
including 2 inches [5 cm.l of the green tops
lb.
brown. Add the wine and the bou qu et garni, and reduce the
liqu id, over medium heat, to two thirds of its original volume. Strain and set this sauce aside in the saucepan.
Place t he onions in a deep skillet and add enough water
to come one third of the way up their sides. Dot with 4 tablespoons of the butter and add salt, pepper and the sugar. Cook
uncovered over medium heat until the water has evaporated, leaving only the butter. Shake the pan from time to time.
Reduce th e heat, and glaze and brown the onions. Meanwh ile, heat a little oil in a large sk illet and sau te the lamb
slices for about five minutes, leaving them rare. Keep them
warm, without prolonging the cooking, on a heated serving
platter. Salt and pepper lightly.
To finish the sauce, bring it back to a boil and add salt
and pepper. Then remove it from the heat and, little by little,
stir in t he softened butter pieces.
Arrange the very hot onions around the lamb on t he serving platter, spoon ali ttle sauce over everything and serve on
hot plates, with the rest of the sauce in a sauceboat.
MADELEINE PETER
FAVORITE RECIPES OF THE GREAT WOMEN CHEFS OF FRANCE
61b.
16 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
5 cups
1% lb.
30 mi.
superfine sugar
15 mi.
4 tbsp.
oil
60 mi.
Y2 cup
peanut oil
3 or 4
3 or 4
3 or4
3 or4
2 tbsp.
soy sauce
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
vinegar
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
sesame-seed oil
15 mi.
1 Y4 liters
%kg.
375 g.
3 kg.
240 mi.
Ya inch
%lb.
125 mi.
Soy marinade
2 tbsp.
peanut oil
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
soy sauce
30 mi.
Y2
Y2
tsp.
salt
2 mi.
tsp.
2 mi.
ROBERT A. DELFS
THE GOOD FOOD OF SZECHWAN: DOWN-TO-EARTH CHINESE COOKING
JOH N D. KEYS
JAPANESE CUISINE
to
1 kg .
10
mushrooms, sliced
Y2 kg.
3
10
5
Y4 tsp.
Y2 cup
cayenne pepper
oil
1 mi.
125 mi.
2
2 tsp .
lOml.
1 cu p
white wine
Y4 liter
Season the meat with salt, pepper and cayenne, and brown it
in a frying pa n with the oil, garlic and rosemary. Cook over
high heat, shaking the pan frequently to avoid sticking.
When the lamb is golden brown, a dd the wine and cook
uncovered until the wine evaporates. Serve immediately.
NICE CORTELLI LUCREZI
LE RECETTE DELLA NONNA
oil
Soy seasoning
garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tsp.
5 mi.
% tsp.
cayenne pepper
1 mi.
1 tsp.
5 mi.
Y3 cup
soy sauce
75 mi.
Y4 cup
50 mi.
1 tbsp.
sugar
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
FRYING
To serve 4
3 tbsp.
peanut oil
45 mi.
4 tbsp.
butter
60 mi.
Y3 cup
Madeira
75 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
creme fralche
50 mi.
Salt and pepper both sides of the noisettes. Heat the oil and
half of the butter in a saute pan and, when very hot, add the
la mb and cook the noisettes for about three minutes on each
side. The lamb should be pink inside. Take the noisettes out
of the pan, set aside and keep them warm.
Quickly drain off the oil and melt the remaining 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of butter in the pan; pour in the Madeira. Add
the tarragon and creme fraiche. Boil this sauce to reduce its
volume slightly, and pour through a fine sieve over the meat.
ANTHON Y BLAKE AND QUENTIN CREWE
GREAT CHEFS OF FRANCE
Moroccan Meatballs
Roulettes ala Viande
A ccompany this dish, if you wish, with a tomato sauce (recipe, page 165) .
To serve 6 to 8
Y2
lib.
1 tsp.
salt
1 lb.
zucchini, grated
Y2
kg.
5 mi.
Y2
kg .
3
Y4
cup
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
o live oil
30 mi.
y4 kg.
eggs, beaten
Y2
125 mi.
% tsp.
1 mi.
Y2
cayenne pepper
7 mi.
cup
tbsp.
salt
50 mi.
pepper
96
lb.
%cup
flour
50 mi.
1 cup
olive oil
% liter
Work together the meat, potatoes, eggs, parsley, onions, pepper, cayenne pepper and salt. Form the mixture into balls
the size of eggs. Flatten them slightly and roll them in flour.
Heat the oil until it is very hot but not smoking, and fry
the meatballs in it for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them several times, until they are golden brown. Serve very hot.
AHMED LAASRI
240 RECETTES DE CUISINE MAROCAINE
Almond-stuffed Meatballs
in Curry Sauce
Kofta
The besan called for in this recipe is chick-pea flour. It is
available where Indian foods are sold. Many Indian-food
stores also carry karhais, which are round- or flat-bottomed
pans similar to Chinese woks.
To serve 4
lib.
16
Y2 kg.
16
egg
90ml.
6 tbsp.
besan
Y2 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
salt
2 mi.
l mi.
2 tbsp.
water
30 mi.
Y4 cup
Y2 cup
ghee
l tsp.
l tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
% tsp.
Y2 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
ground coriander
2 mi.
ground cumin
2 mi.
turmeric
2 mi.
cayenne pepper
l mi.
l cup
plain yogurt
Y2 tsp.
garam masala
50 mi.
Spicy Meatballs
125 mi.
El Kefta
5 mi.
To serve 6
15 mi.
%liter
2ml.
21b.
l kg.
% tbsp.
7ml.
Y2 tbsp.
22 mi.
14 tbsp.
butter
210 mi.
Y2 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
ground saffron
2 mi.
pepper
2 mi.
% tsp.
ground ginger
2 mi.
Y2 tsp.
ground cumin
2 mi.
l tsp.
cayenne pepper
5 mi.
Y4 tsp.
sa lt
l mi.
l cup
water
% liter
97
ROASTING
~asting
one 181b.
Y2 lb.
Y4 kg.
salt
1 cup
Y4 liter
lamb liver
scallions, chopped
To serve
one 18 lb.
Punjeno Jagnje
8 to 10
foresaddle of lamb
7 tbsp.
one 9 kg.
105 mi.
2 tbsp.
fines he rbes
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
mixed spices
15ml.
8 tbsp.
butter, softened
120 mi.
1 Y2 cups
375 mi.
Y2 lb.
%cup
2 cups
shallots, chopped
about
1 cup
125 mi.
2 or3
2 or3
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Y4 kg.
150 mi.
Y2
liter
5
about
Y4 liter
2
98
one 9 kg.
Stuffed Kid
Caprettu Chinu
Caciocavallo and provolone are firm gourd-shaped Italian
cheeses, often with a light, smoky flavor.
This old recipe is common to both Sicily and Calabria. In
Maletto and Bronte, in the northeast of Sicily, the pasta or
rice in the stuffing is replaced by a tomato risotto or a risotto
flavored with pork sausage and wild fennel.
To serve 8
one 12 lb.
1 tbsp.
lard
one 6 kg.
15 mi.
Marinated Kid
Pasta stuffing
8 to
10 cups
one 6 kg.
14 oz.
14 oz.
7 oz.
To serve 8
one 12 lb.
onions, sliced
carrots, sliced
vinegar
50 mi.
1 cup
white wine
Y4
%cup
oil
50 mi.
sprigs parsley
4 tbsp.
butter
olive oil
chopped fresh parsley
liter
bay leaf
crumbled dried thyme or mixed herbs
200 g.
onion, sliced
mixed spices
1 tbsp.
2 to
2Y2 liters
400 g.
400 g.
15ml.
3
60 mi.
lemon, sliced
croutons (recipe, page 167)
Combine the onions, carrots, salt and pepper, spices, vinegar, wine, oil and herbs. Place the kid in this marinade,
cover, and refrigerate for 24 hours, turning the meat and
spooning the marinade over it several times. Drain the kid
and pat it dry with paper towels. Strain the marinade and
reserve it for basting.
Place the kid in a roasting pan, smear the butter over the
surface, and put in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven. Roast
for about 15 minutes, then baste with the fat in the pan.
After about 45 minutes, begin basting with the marinade.
Roast for one and one halfto two hours in all. When the meat
is done, serve it on a large platter garnished with lemon
slices and croutons.
50 mi.
GASTON DERYS
LES PLATS AU VIN
99
ROASTING
Leg of Lamb
Lammkeule
Serve this with small roast potatoes, braised whole tomatoes
and mint sauce.
To serve 4 to 6
61b.
leg of lamb
1 Y2 tbsp.
salt
1 tsp.
1 tbsp.
15ml.
4 tbsp.
butter, melted
60 mi.
for one and one half hours, or until the meat is cooked
through. Turn the lamb several times during the roasting
and baste with the pan juices. If necessary, add a little hot
water to the pan juices to provide more basting liquid.
To serve, remove the string and slice the lamb. Degrease
the pan juices and serve them in a sauceboat.
SIMONE ORTEGA
MIL OCHENTA RECETAS DE COCINA
3 kg.
22 mi.
5ml.
Preheat the oven to 450 F. [230 C.]. Mix the salt, pepper
and rosemary with the melted butter, and use the mixture to
coat the meat as evenly as possible all over. Place the lamb in
a shallow roasting pan and sear in the oven for 20 minutes.
Reduce the heat to 350 F. [180 C.] and roast for 40 to 60
minutes, or until the lamb is done to your taste.
DOROTHEE V. HELLERMANN
DAS KOCHBUCH AUS HAMBURG
6 to 91b.
leg of lamb
Y4
olive oil
cup
y4 lb.
1 tsp.
2 tbsp.
butter
one 1 Y2 kg.
1 tbsp.
chopped rosemary
15ml.
125 g.
2 tbsp.
chopped thyme
30ml.
ground pork
12
3 tbsp.
butter, diced
30 mi.
Y2 kg.
Y2 cup
dry sherry
% tsp.
%cup
flour
50 mi.
3 tbsp.
oil
45 mi.
125 mi.
1 mi.
hot water
salt
lib.
50 mi.
To serve 6 to 8
one 31b.
3 to 4 Y2 kg.
12
45 mi.
6 1b.
2 tbsp.
salt
30 mi.
1 cu p
Y4
YJ cup
sprigs thyme
w hole cloves
18
liter
2
75 mi.
18
3 tbsp.
water
45 mi.
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
15
15
15
pepperco rns
15
15
15
6 cups
red wine
% lb.
125 g.
1 cup
heavy cream
Y4
liter
1 Y2 kg .
31b.
salt
2 tbsp.
flo ur
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
o nions, sliced
2 or3
Y2 cup
Y4 cup
red wi ne
sour cream
2
2 o r3
125 mi.
50 mi.
3
Bring the water and lemon juice to a boil with 10 each of the
juniper berries, peppercorns and chilies. Pour this marinade
over the meat. Turn the meat in the marinade, rubbing it in
lightly. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, drain the meat and rub it with the crushed
garlic and salt. Let the meat stand for one hour, then dust it
with the flour.
Heat the butter in a roasting pan and brown the meat in
it on all sides. Roast the meat in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.]
oven, basting frequently with its own juices.
After 30 minutes, add to the pan the onions a nd whole
dried mushrooms, the remaining juniper berries, peppercorns and chilies, and the wine. Cover and return to the
oven. After 60 to 80 minutes, the meat should be well done.
(If the cooking liquid evaporates, add some boiling water
from time to time.)
When the meat is tender, coat it with the sour cream
cover again and cook for a further five minutes. Slice th~
meat, not too thinly, a nd arrange it on a heated serving dish .
Sieve the cooking liquid, add the sliced mushrooms if using,
reheat the liquid and pour it over the meat. Serve with rice,
beets and creamed potatoes.
MARIA LEMNIS AND HENRYK VITRY
W. STAROPOLSKIEJ KUCHNI I PRZY POLSKIM STOLE
10 1
ROASTING
serve 4
31b.
2
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
1
Y2 cup
6 tbsp.
3
2 tsp.
1 Y2 kg.
2
15 mi.
15 mi.
1
90 mi.
3
30 mi.
To serve 6 to 8
lemons
large garlic clove, slivered
3 kg.
1 tbsp.
% tsp.
Dijon mustard
gro und ginger
15 ml.
1 mi.
2 tbsp.
o live o il
salt and freshly ground pepper
30 mi.
Peel each lemon, keeping the peel in one long strip. Reserve
the lemons. Cut each strip of peel into thirds lengthwise (you
should have three long strips of peel from each lemon).
Without breaking the parchment-like fell , lightly score
the surface of the lamb with crosshatched diagonal lines
spaced at l lh-inch [4-cm.) intervals. Using a larding needle,
make small incisions along the score marks at l-inch [2lhcm.) intervals. Thread one long strip of lemon peel into the
eye of a larding needle; insert the needle into one incision,
bring it under one section of fell and over the next as you pull
102
3 to 4 lb .
1 or 2
1 cup
1 tsp.
1 tbsp.
lemon-roasted lamb
leg of lamb
BERT GREENE
BERT GREENE'S KITCHEN BOUQUETS
125 mi.
Mix the garlic and herbs with a little salt and rub the meat
with this mixture. Place the meat in a bowl and pour on the
oil. Sprinkle with the lemon juice and coat with the lemon
slices and peppercorns. Cover the bowl and marinate in the
refrigerator for two days, turning the meat several times.
Drain the meat and place it in a roasting pan. Brown it
over high heat, season with salt and place in a preheated
450F. [230C.)oven. Roast for one hour, or until the meat is
tender, basting occasionally with the marinade.
Alternatively, spit-roast the meat over a charcoal fire.
61b.
2
serve 5 or 6
5 mi.
15 mi.
Add to the beans the carrot, onion, whole clove, salt and
enough water to cover the beans completely; bring to a boil,
reduce the heat, and simmer until tender, about one hour.
Drain the beans.
Meantime, cut gashes in the lamb in several places, and
insert the slivers of garlic. Set the lamb, with a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part, in a preheated 450 F .
[230 C.) oven. Sear the meat for 15 minutes, then reduce the
heat to 325 F. [160 C.). After the lamb has been in the oven
for half an hour, spoon off excess fat from the pan in which it
is roasting. Add the beans to the pan around the meat. Roast
for 30 minutes longer. Remove the lamb to a warmed platter
when the desired temperature is reached. Skim off any excess fat, add the parsley to the beans, and serve the beans
with the lamb.
BETTY WASON
BRIDE IN THE KITCHEN
Leg of Lamb
with Parsley and Bread Crumbs
Gepersilleerde Schapebout
To serve 6 to 8
6 to 9 1b.
leg of lamb
5 tbsp.
butter, softened
3 to 4 Y2 kg.
75 mi.
10
garlic cloves
1 cup
% liter
2 tbsp.
pureed tomato
30 mi.
Spread the leg oflamb with the butter and put it in a baking
dish. Roast in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 15 minutes per pound [lh kg.] of meat. Season with salt and pepper
halfway through the cooking time.
While the lamb is cooking, prepare the garlic. Bring a
pan of water to a boil, add the garlic cloves and parboil them
for three to four minutes. Remove the garlic cloves, cool
them under cold water and drain. In a mortar, pound the
garlic to a puree. Transfer the puree to a saucepan.
When the lamb is roasted, set it on a serving platter. Add
to the garlic puree the stock, the roasting juices and the
pureed tomato. Season with salt and pepper, and cook over
high heat for five minutes to reduce the sauce.
Serve the leg of la mb accompanied by the piping hot
sauce in a sauceboat.
To serve 6 to 8
6 to 91b.
leg of lamb
6 tbsp.
90 mi.
1 cup
Y4
Y2 cup
3 to4Y2 kg .
liter
125 mi.
shallot, chopped
leek, trimmed to 1 inch [2Y2 em.]
above the white port and chopped
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
prepared mustard
To serve 6 to 8
To serve 6 to 8
6 to 9 1b.
leg of lamb
3 to 4 Y2 kg.
6 to 9 1b.
leg of lamb
garlic cloves
1 tbsp.
oregano
Y4
tsp.
3 to4Y2 kg.
2
15 mi.
1 mi.
1 tbsp.
chili powder
15 mi.
125 mi.
2 tbsp.
vinegar
30 mi.
3 tbsp.
olive oil
45 mi.
CHARLES DURAND
LE CUISINIER DURAND
ELENA ZELAYETA
ELENA'S SECRETS OF MEXICAN COOKING
salt
Y2 cup
salt a nd pepper
103
ROASTING
2Y2 kg.
leg of lamb
salt and pepper
dry mustard
ground rosemary
Coffee souce
% liter
3to4%kg .
2 tbsp.
cream
30 mi.
1 liter
2 tbsp.
sugar
30 mi.
brandy
45 mi.
To serve 6 to 8
6 to 91b.
leg of lamb
1. quart
bay leaves
3 tbsp.
12
l cup
red wine
20
Salt and pepper the lamb, and dust it all over with the mustard. Pat some ground rosemary into the top of the lamb.
Combine the ingredients for the sauce.
Roast the lamb in a preheated 300 F. [150 C.] oven for
18 minutes to the pound if you r intention is to have it well
done, or for 12 minutes if you like it pink. While the lamb is
in the oven, baste it frequently with the sauce. Transfer the
lamb to a warm serving tray and let it stand for 20 minutes
before carving.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
Y4
flour
50 mi.
pureed tomato
15 mi.
cup
l tbsp.
12
Y4
liter
20
paprika
Y2
cup
104
Le Gigot Boulangere
125 mi.
To serve 6 to 8
6 to 9 lb.
2 tbsp.
3 to 4 Y2 kg.
30 mi.
butter, melted
60 mi.
6 to 8
6 to 8
sprigs thyme
mix the potatoes, onion, garlic, bay leaf and thyme. Season
the mixture with salt and pepper.
After 20 minutes, transfer the lamb to a plate and cover
to keep it warm. Spread the potato mixture in the baking
dish, add enough salted boiling water to come just to the top
of the potatoes, and place the dish over medium heat. When
the water comes to a boil, put the lamb on top of the potatoes,
sprinkle with the remaining melted butter, and return the
dish to the oven. Roast for at least another 20 minutes, turning the leg of lamb twice. The potatoes will be tender in 20
minutes, but the dish should continue to cook until the lamb
is done-that is, still pink inside.
To serve, carve the lamb and arrange the slices in an
overlapping circle on the potatoes. Serve in the baking dish.
PAUL BOUILLARD
LA GOURMANDISE A BON MARCHE
1 kg.
To serve 4 to 6
7 tbsp.
butter
105 mi.
sour cream
125 mi.
Ham stuffing
4 tbsp .
150 g.
1 tsp.
%cup
oil
2 kg.
175 mi.
salt
1 tsp.
whole cloves
2 tsp.
juniper berries
1 tsp.
ground cinnamon
5 mi.
10ml.
5 mi.
pepper
60 mi.
41b.
5 oz.
125 g.
5 mi.
large egg
Dust the meat with salt and pepper, and rub it with the
garlic. Combine all of the stuffing ingredients, kneading
with your hands until the stuffing has a uniform consistency. Spread the stuffing over the inside of the meat, roll it up
105 mi.
7 tbsp.
butter
onion, chopped
1 Y4 cups
wine
1
300 mi.
105
ROASTING
4 to 61b.
Shoulder of Lamb
with Rice and Apricot Stuffing
To serve 6
two 2Y2 to
3 kg.
4 tbsp.
butter, melted
2 to 3 kg.
olive oil
375 mi.
onion, grated
garlic clove, crushed to a paste
5 mi.
1 tsp.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
1 cup
white wine
Y4 liter
Y2 tsp.
oregano
60 mi.
8
2 mi.
1 cup
% liter
%lb.
125 g.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
% tsp.
ground cinnamon
2 mi.
Y2 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
ground coriander
2 mi.
ground ginger
2 mi.
Lay the lamb shoulders boned side up and season them with
salt and pepper.
Boil the rice in plenty of boiling, salted water for about
15 minutes, or until almost cooked. Drain well and mix with
the remaining stuffing ingredients. Spread some of the mixture on top of one shoulder, cover with the other shoulder
and sew the shoulders together with a needle and thread.
Brush with some of the melted butter; roast the lamb in a
preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for 30 minutes per pound
['h kg.]-stuffed weight-plus 20 minutes. When it is done,
remove it to a heated serving platter.
Pour the fat from the pan juices, then mix in the remaining r ice mixture to reheat over low heat for about five minutes. Add the remaining butter if necessary to moisten. Arrange this around the lamb, cut away the thread and serve.
JANE GRIGSON
ENGLISH FOOD
106
Season the eggplant slices with salt and pepper, and use
1 cup [ \4 liter] of the olive oil to brown them lightly until
almost, but not quite, tender; drain them on paper towels.
In anoth~r skillet, lightly brown the onion, garlic, mint
and parsley m 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the olive oil.
Lay the lamb shoulder flat-boned side upward- and
spread the sauteed onion mixture over the meat. Season
with salt ~nd pepper, and a~range the eggplant slices on top.
Roll and be the lamb; place m a roasting pan a nd pour half of
the wine over the lamb. Brown the rolled lamb in a preheated 450 F. [230 C.] oven for 15 minutes; then reduce the heat
to 300 F. [150 C.] and roast for one and three quarters
hours for pink lamb; two and one quarter hours for well-done
meat. Baste the lamb frequently with a mixture of the remaining oil and the lemon juice, using the lemon shell
'
pierced with a fork, as a basting brush.
. About 30 minutes before the lamb is done, add the parboiled potatoes to the pan. Sprinkle them lightly with salt,
pepper and oregano, and baste them with the pan juices.
Wh~n the lamb is cooked, remove it to a warmed platter
and s.kl!ll the fat from the pan juices. Add to the juices the
remammg 'h cup [125 ml.] wine, salt and pepper to taste
and simmer this sauce for several minutes. Cut the lamb roli
into slices 1 inch [2 Vz em.] thick; place the slices on the
platter surrounded by the potatoes. Serve accompanied with
the sauce and a crisp salad.
EVA ZANE
GREEK COOKING FOR THE GODS
one 3 to
lb.
garlic cloves
1 tsp.
Y4
olive oil
3Y2
cup
one 1 Y2 to
1% kg.
2
5 mi.
50 mi.
!IJ cup
75 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Rub the surfaces of the bones and meat with the garlic
cloves. Sprinkle the herbs lightly on all surfaces, most sparingly on the underside, and coat with olive oil, rubbing and
patting with your hands to ensure an even distribution. J ust
before roasting, sprinkle the underside of the apron and the
fillet with salt and pepper, and roll the aprons under so that
the two rolls touch. The rolls may be skewered together
crosswise or the roast held in shape by a couple of rounds of
string, but this is not essential.
Place the roast in a heavy, shallow baking dish ofjust the
right size to hold it (otherwise, the drippings risk burning)
and count a maximum of 10 minutes per pound ['h kg.] of
roasting time (30 minutes in this instance) in a preheated
425 F. [220 C.] oven. After 10 minutes, turn the heat down
to 325 F . [160 C.]; salt and pepper the roast at this time.
Baste with the pan juices during the last 10 minutes or so
and, after roasting is done, leave the meat in its roasting pan
in a warm but not hot place for 10 to 15 minutes so that the
meat may relax. Given a ll these precautions, t he meat
should be neither rare nor gray in color, but rose throughout.
Transfer the roast to a heated platter (or, better, a carving board with a well for collecting the j uices). Skim off the
fat from t he roasting pan, place th e pan over h igh heat, pour
in the wine or water, and reduce by about two t h irds, stirring
and scraping with a wooden spoon to dislodge and dissolve
all caramelized adherences. Remove from t he heat and swirl
in the butter if desired; this transforms the clear juice into a
light-bodied velvety sauce.
Send the roast to the table with the vegetable garnishes
and sauce separately. Carve the meat so that each person
has a slice of the eye of the loin, a section of fillet and a piece
of apron. Serve on heated plates, and pass the sauceboat only
when the carving has been finished and the resultant juices
added to the sauce.
Curve the two racks of lamb so that their ends touch, forming a ring with the bones sticking up. Tie string around the
outside to hold the crown together.
Season the meat with pepper and tarragon and, if you
like, rub it with the cut sides of the garlic. Place the crown on
a rack in a shallow roasting pan. Crumple a piece offoil into
a ball large enough to fill the middle of the crown so it will
hold its shape while roasting.
Rub t he meat well with the softened butter or the olive oil
and roast in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for about 30 to
35 minutes for pink lamb; baste it with melted butter twice
during that time. It is best to gauge the cooking time by the
size of the chops: About nine to 10 minutes for each pound
['h kg.] of lamb is generally right, but the eye of the meat
differs so much in size that this can only be approximate.
Salt the meat well before removing it from the oven.
Transfer the crown to a hot platter and remove the string
and foil. Fill the crown with one of the fillings given above.
Garnish the platter with watercress or with cooked artichoke bottoms filled with bearnaise sauce. To serve, carve
into chops, allowing two per person.
RICHARD OLNEY
THE FRENCH MENU COOKBOOK
JAMES A. BEARD
JAMES BEARD'S AMERICAN COOKERY
Y2
tsp.
2 mi.
60 mi.
salt
107
ROASTING
2 tsp.
Y2 tbsp.
sugar
2 tbsp.
coarse salt
2% tsp.
11 mi.
2
7 mi.
30 mi.
10 mi.
Turn the racks skin side up and remove about 1 '12 inches
[4 em.] of skin and fat from the ends of the bones; scrape
them free of meat as well as you can. Score the skin in stripes
or in diamond shapes.
Rub in salt, pepper, and the thyme or rosemary. Now
stand the racks up on their thick sides, skin side out, and
push them together so that the exposed bones cross each
other alternately. The assembly will bristle like a military
row of crossed swords.
Skewer the racks together at the base. Protect the exposed bones from burning with a piece of foil pressed into
place over them. Roast in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven
for one and one half hours. To carve, cut down between the
chops, allowing two per person.
J ANE GRIGSON
ENGLISH FOOD
Di jon mustard
30 mi.
Guard of Honor
The techniques of assembling a lamb Guard of Honor are
shown on pages 38-39.
Once the meat has been skewered, you can push some
herb stuffing into the cavity, but the stuffing has a tendency
to fall out in a messy way unless the mixture is made very
stiff with egg- and most people prefer a light, crumbly
stuffing. I prefer to fill the cavity after cooking with small
new potatoes, separately cooked, or with mushrooms. Gua rd
of Honor can be served with all of the u sual t hings for lamb,
108
2 tsp.
10ml.
V3 cup
75 mi.
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
2 tbsp.
o live oil
30 mi.
4 tbsp.
60 mi.
2f3 cup
150 mi.
Rub the roast with the mustard. Sprinkle with salt, pepper
and rosemary. Mix the bread crumbs with the parsley, garlic, and salt and pepper. Cover the meat with this mixture,
pressing it in firmly. Put the meat in a shallow roasting pan.
Combine the olive oil with the melted butter and dribble the
mixture over the meat.
Roast the meat in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for
45 minutes to one hour, depending on the degree of doneness
you want. Transfer it to a warmed platter. Pour the stock
into the pan; add the diced butter. Heat, stirring, until the
pan juices blend into the stock and the butter thickens the
sauce slightly. Pour the sauce around the meat and serve.
HUGHJANS
VRIJ NEDERLAND KOOKBOEK
2 tsp.
salt
% tsp.
2 tbsp.
o live oil
%cup
chopped onions
Ya
grated nutmeg
Y2
2 tbsp.
melted butter
30 mi.
tsp.
10ml.
To serve 4
four
3;4 kg.
fo ur
1 Y2 lb.
2 tsp.
thyme
10ml.
2 tsp.
marjoram
10ml.
Y2 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
grated nutmeg
2 mi.
cayenne pepper
2 mi.
2 tsp.
salt
10ml.
1
1 mi.
3
30 mi.
175 mi.
mi.
Season the lamb cutlets with 11h teaspoons [7 ml.] of the salt
and all of the pepper. Set aside. Heat the oil in a skillet; saute
the onions for five minutes; mix in the mushrooms, nutmeg
and the remaining salt. Cook over very low heat for 10 minutes. Cool for five minutes.
Cut four pieces of parchment paper, each large enough to
completely enclose a cutlet. Brush each piece of paper with
the butter, place a slice ofham on it, spread the ham with the
onion mixture, place a cutlet over it and cover the cutlet with
another slice ofham. Bring up the edges of the paper and seal
the edges. Place the parcels on a baking sheet. Bake in a
preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 45 minutes. Slit the
paper , and serve the lamb from the pa rcels.
ROMEO SALTA
THE PLEASURES OF ITALIAN COOKING
Herbed La mb Shanks
To serve 4
1Y2 to
21b.
% to
1 kg.
7
2 tsp.
%cup
olive oil
%cup
water
8
10ml.
3
SO mi.
175 mi.
109
Lamb Bandit-Style
Arni Kleftiko
To serve 4
2lb.
Y2
olive oil
cup
.<
1 kg.
125 mi.
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
Y2 cup
1 Y2 tsp.
dry sherry
oregano
125 mi.
7ml.
Lamb Roll
Rotolo di Agnello
tomato, sliced
To serve 4 or 5
%lb.
feta cheese
125 g.
1% lb.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
Mix the lamb well with the olive oil, garlic, lemon juice,
onion, sherry, 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of the oregano, and salt and
pepper to taste.
Brush four sheets of aluminum foil or parchment paper
with olive oil and arrange a portion of the meat mixture in
the center ofeach sheet. On each portion place a tomato slice;
sprinkle the cheese over the meat, season with a pinch of
oregano and place two pats of butter on top. Fold the foil or
parchment paper over the mixture and crimp the edges
tightly to seal. Bake the packets in a preheated 375 F. [190
C.] oven for one hour.
EVA ZANE
GREEK COOKING FOR THE GODS
2Y2 lb.
1 cup
o live oil
1 y4 kg.
Y4 liter
% cup
4
50 mi.
3 kg .
egg
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
salt
Y3 cup
75 mi.
2 tbsp.
butter, melted
30 mi.
In a bowl, mix the meat with the bread, egg, Parmesan and
salt. Gather the mixture into a ball and pound it repeatedly
and vigorously against the bottom of the bowl to knead it. On
a damp cloth, spread out the meat mixture to a finger's thickness. Cover with the slices ofEmmentaler cheese, then with
the cooked mushrooms. Roll up the meat and, with damp
hands, seal the edges.
Transfer the roll to a well-greased ba king dish, setting
the joined edge down. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.]
oven for about one hour, basting the roll occasionally with
the melted butter.
LISA BIONDI (EDITOR)
350 RICETTE DI CUCINA LEGGERA
Daube Avignonnaise
The technique of larding is shown on pages 58-59.
To serve 6 to 8
~oaching, ~raising
and Stewin~
Proven~al Lamb
Rot de Bif di Agnello alla Prouenzale
boneless leg of la mb
sprig s parsley
garlic cloves
salt
fresh pork fatback, cut into lardons,
soaked in Cognac and rolled in
chopped parsley
To serve 12
4 to 5 kg.
125 g .
carrot, sliced
olive oil
15ml.
1 tbsp.
mixed spices
Y2 lb.
bay leaf
red wi ne
whole cloves
2 quarts
egg yolks
%cup
1 tsp.
thyme
50 mi.
5 mi.
3 or 4
3 or 4
orange peel
1 Y2 to 2 kg .
3 to 4 lb.
300 mi.
2 liters
175 mi.
175 mi.
Ask the butcher for the bones from the lamb and for one or
two extra. Place the bones in a pot with the onion stuck with
cloves, one parsley sprig and two whole garlic cloves. Add 2
quarts [2 liters] of water and cook down to a good broth.
Season with salt to taste.
In the mea ntime, cut the lamb in good-sized pieces. Lard
each piece with one or two lardons. Combine the sliced onions and carrot, olive oil, thyme, bay leaf, the remaining
parsley, three cru shed cloves of garlic, and wine almost to
cover. Marina te the lamb for several hours or overnight
in this marinade.
Make a bed of the chopped onions in a heavy, deep casserole. Add half of the pig's foot, then half of the marinated
meat, more onions, the salt pork, the remaining meat and
th e rest of the pig's foot. Add the orange peel, strain the
marinade and add t he seasonings, onions, carrots and garlic
from it and the three remaining garlic cloves. Add enough of
the broth to cover. Seal the casserole with flour-and-water
paste and cook very slowly on the stove or in a 275 F. [140
C.] oven for three to four hours. Serve with rice and a salad.
THE EDITORS OF HOUSE & GARDEN
HOUSE & GARDEN'S NEW COOK BOOK
111
3 to 4 Y2 kg.
6 to 9 1b.
leg of lamb
about
2 quarts
about
2 liters
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
Y4 cup
flour
50 mi.
Y2 cup
heavy cream
125 mi.
2 tbsp.
capers, rinsed
30 mi.
and golden. Line a heavy casserole with the pork rind, placed
fat side down. Place the lamb on the pork rind and surround
the lamb with the shallots. Add the bouquet garni. Cover
with the stock.
Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer gently for four to five
hours. At the end of this time the shallots will be reduced to a
puree and the lamb will be surrounded by a creamy, aromatic sauce. Discard the bouquet garni. Slice the lamb and arrange the slices on a heated platter, surrounded by the
sauce. Cut the pork rind into small squares and scatter it
over the slices of lamb.
ZETTE GUINAUDEAU-FRANC
LES SECRETS DES FERMES EN PERIGORD NOIR
In a large pan, bring the stock to a boil and put in the leg of
lamb. Reduce the heat, cover partially and simmer for 15
minutes for each pound ['12 kg.] of meat. When the lamb is
cooked, remove it and set it on a heated platter.
In a small pan, melt the butter, stir in the flour and cook
until lightly colored. Stir in about 2 cups ['12 liter] of the
stock in which the lamb was cooked. Stirring constantly,
simmer until the sauce is smooth and lightly thickened. Remove the sauce from the heat. Mix the egg yolks with the
cream and stir them into the sauce. Return the sauce to the
heat for a minute or two to thicken it, without letting it come
to a boil. Stir in the capers and serve the sauce with the lamb.
MME. ELISABETH
500 NOUVELLES RECETTES DE CUISINE
3 to 4 lb.
Y3 cup
oil
l Y2 to 2 kg.
75 mi.
carrots, sliced
/4 cup
175 mi.
garlic cloves
2 tbsp.
vi negar
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
To serve 8
3 to 4 Y2 kg.
6 to 91b.
4 tbsp.
60 mi.
l ib.
shallots
%kg.
Y2 lb.
%kg.
l
bouquet garni
about
6 cups
about
Y2 liters
Melt the goose fat and in it brown the leg oflamb on all sides.
Remove the lamb and cook the shallots in the fat until soft
112
Heat 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the oil in a saute pan. Add the
onion, carrots, potatoes, tomato and apple, and then the
lamb. Season with salt. Cook over fairly high heat for about
20 minutes, turning the lamb from time to time and stirring
the vegetables until all are well browned. Spoon off any fat
that accumulates. Add the stock, cover, then cook over low
heat for approximately one and one half hours, or until the
meat is tender.
Remove the meat from the pan and cover it to keep it
warm. In a small skillet, fry the garlic in the remaining oil
until lightly browned. Add the vinegar and parsley, and cook
for another minute or two. Add the garlic mixture to the
lamb cooking juices, stir well, and press this sauce through a
sieve. Slice the lamb and pour the sauce over it.
ANA MARlA CALERA
365 RECETAS DE COCINA VASCA
6 to 9 lb.
leg of lamb
about
2 quarts
bouquet garni
3 to 4 Y2 kg.
about
2 liters
casserole with the lard, salt and pepper, and bay leaf; place
over medium heat. When the lard is melted and very hot, put
in the lamb and brown it on all sides. Pour in the wine and
enough water to cover the meat; bring the liquid to a boil,
cover the casserole and place it in a preheated 325 F. [160
C.] oven. Cook for three hours, or until the lamb is tender.
Transfer the lamb to a warmed platter. Degrease the
cooking liquid, then reduce it over high heat until it has
the consistency of a sauce. Sieve the sauce, and pour it over
the lamb as the leg is carved.
BERTHA ROSALIMPO
0 LIVRO DE PANTAGRUEL
Place the leg oflamb in an oval pot of just the size to hold it.
Cover the meat with stock, add the bouquet garni and bring
to a boil. Cover the pot and simmer for about one and one half
hours, turning the leg occasionally.
Remove the lamb and discard the bouquet garni. Degrease the stock in the pot and boil it vigorously to reduce it
to a syrupy glaze. Put the lamb back into the pot and turn it
in the glaze to cover all sides, taking care it does not stick.
Remove to a warmed serving platter.
Meanwhile, blanch the parsley in boiling water for seven
minutes. Drain, plunge into cold water, drain again, and
press the parsley dry with your hands. Chop it fine.
Pour a little more stock into the pot, and boil and stir
until all of the glaze is dissolved. Add the parsley to this
sauce, season, and serve with the lamb.
MENON
LA CUISINIERE BOURGEOISE
6 to 9lb.
leg of lamb
12
3
2 oz.
carrots, sliced
2 tbsp.
3 to 4Y2 kg .
12
3
3
60 g.
30 mi.
white wine
%liter
6 to 9lb.
leg of lamb
Y4 lb.
3to4Y2 kg.
125 g.
salt
mixed spices
50 mi.
% cup
olive o il
whole cloves
2 or 3
sprigs thyme
2 or3
bay leaves
2 or3
sprigs basil
2 or3
2or3
sprigs parsley
2 or3
1 Y2 cups
white wine
Y3 cup
375 mi.
75 mi.
Roll the lardons in salt and mixed spices, and use them to
lard the leg of lamb. Mix the oil, garlic, cloves, thyme, bay
leaves, basil, parsley, scallions and shallots, and rub the
mixture over the lamb. Cover the lamb and marinate it in
the refrigerator for 24 hours.
Place the lamb and its marinade in a deep pan. Add the
wine. Cover, and cook over very low heat or in an oven preheated to 325 F. [160 C.] for four to five hours, or until the
meat is tender, turning it occasionally and basting it regularly. Remove the lamb from the pan, degrease the cooking
liquid and strain it. Add the stock and reduce by boiling over
high heat until the sauce reaches the desired consistency.
Serve the sauce poured over the carved lamb.
LE MANUEL DE LA FRIANDISE
11 3
2Y2 to
31b.
1% to
1 Y2 kg.
As an alternative to the standard roast leg oflamb, the British frequently boil or braise the leg. The following hearty
presentation, with garlic and a classic English bread sauce,
stretches the expensive meat so that a half leg will easily
feed six to eight people. The dish should be accompanied
simply with boiled new potatoes, tossed in parsley butter.
To serve 6 to 8
41b.
bay leaf
tarragon
15ml.
4 tbsp.
60 mi.
2 tbsp.
salt
3
30 mi.
Anchovy sauce
12
1 or 2
12
12
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
olive oil
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
1 Y2 cups
375 mi.
1 Y2 cups
water
375 mi.
1 or 2
175 mi.
30 mi.
% cup
5 mi.
2 tbsp.
butter
5 mi.
2 tbsp.
olive oil
1 tsp.
1 tsp.
114
2 kg.
onion, sliced
1 tbsp.
12
30 mi.
into a long cylinder, fit it around the rim ofthe casserole and
put on the lid, pressing to make an airtight seal. Place the
casserole in a 300 F. [150 C.] oven for four to five hours.
Saute t he mushrooms in the butter, sprinkle on the flour,
and add the sweetbreads, cockscombs and capers. When the
lamb is cook ed, pour off the cooking liquid, strain and degrease it, and stir it into the mushroom mixture. Pour this
sauce over the lamb, cover, and simmer gently for about 30
minutes. Add the lemon juice to the sauce and correct the
seasoning. Slice the leg oflamb and serve it with the sauce.
P IERRE DE LUNE
LE NOUVEAU CUISINIER
1 cup
125 g.
Y4
liter
175 mi.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
flour
15 mi.
125 g.
8
3 tbsp.
14 tbsp.
butter
sprigs thyme
cockscombs, blanched
50 mi.
45 mi.
Lard the leg oflamb with the strips of pork fatback . Place the
leg in an oval earthenware casserole with the stock, salt,
pepper and bouquet garni. Roll t he flour-and-water paste
two 2 to
3 kg.
2 10 mi.
of oil
lb.
two 4 to
61b.
Y2
To serve 12
bouquet garni
!4 cup
To serve 8
about
2I:J cup
4 or 5
lemons, quartered
about
150 mi.
4 or 5
3
115
ELIZABETH SCHULER
MEIN KOCHBUCH
4 lb.
2 kg.
bouquet garni
garlic clove, crushed to a paste
To serve 6
6 to 81b.
2 tbsp.
lard
slices ham
2
2
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
l cup
Y4
about
l cup
page 164)
liter
about
liter
Y4
2
3
bay leaves
sprigs thyme
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
3 tbsp.
l to 2 lb.
4 tbsp.
butter
60 mi.
l tbsp.
flour
15 mi.
l Y2 cups
375 mi.
Brown the lamb on all sides in half of the butter. Add the
flour to the pan juices. When the flour has browned, pour in
the stock and bring to a boil. Season with salt, pepper and
allspice. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for two hours.
116
30 mi.
3 to 4 kg .
45 mi.
Rub the lamb with salt and pepper. Melt the lard in a heavy
casserole. Add the ham, onion, carrots and the lamb. Basting
with the hot lard, brown the meats over medium heat. Then
cover the casserole, reduce the heat and cook for 30 minutes.
Remove the lamb and ham from the casserole. Stir in the
flour and let it brown over medium heat. Add the wine and
the water or chicken stock, mix all together well and bring to
a boil. Strain this sauce.
Return the lamb to the casserole and add the sauce, bay
leaves, thyme, parsley, chopped and parboiled garlic, and
the orange peel. Cover and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until
the lamb is tender. Just before removing the pan from the
heat, dice the ham and add it. Ifthe sauce is too thin, thicken
it by stirring in the bread crumbs.
MARIE-THERESE CARRERAS AND GEORGES LAFFORGUE
LES BONNES RECETTES DU PAYS CATALAN
61b.
two 2 to
3 kg .
7 tbsp.
butter
Y2 lb.
boiling onions
salt pork, diced
105 mi.
125 g.
Y4
liter
1 cup
white wine
48
48
20
20
12
12
2 1b.
1 kg.
hot water
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
bay leaves
whole cloves
onion, quartered
carrot, quartered
2
2
1 tbsp.
flour
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
butter
15 mi.
about
1 quart
water
about
1 liter
flour
15 mi.
egg yolks
2 tbsp.
pureed tomato
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
2
Y2 cup
% cup
50 mi.
1 lb.
1 tbsp .
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
egg, beaten
For the stock, melt the butter, and brown the bones and
trimmings from the meat with the onion and carrot. Sprinkle with flour, cover with water and add the pureed tomato.
Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, partially cover, and
simmer for at least one hour. Strain and degrease the stock.
Season the boned surfaces ofthe lamb shoulders with salt
and pepper. Combine the stuffing ingredients and spread
them over the boned surface of one shoulder. Cover the stuffing with the second shoulder, boned side down, and sew the
shoulders together. Place the lamb in a roasting pan.
heavy cream
2
125 mi.
117
6 to 91b.
14 tbsp.
butter
3 to 4 Y2 kg .
210 mi.
Y2 tsp.
ground saffron
Y4 cup
honey
50 mi.
2-inch
stick cinnamon
5-cm.
2 mi.
Couscous stuffing
21b.
couscous
l tbsp.
oil
l kg.
15 mi.
salt
% liter
l cup
orange-flower water
24 tbsp.
3 cups
sugar
5 cups
2Y2 tbsp.
grou nd ci nnamon
35 mi.
lib.
Y2 kg.
360 mi.
%liter
l
AHMED LAASRI
240 RECETI'ES DE CUISINE MAROCAINE
Y4 liters
the bowl, toss to separate the grains, and add the ground
cinnamon and the fried almonds.
Gently loosen the parchment-like fell covering of the
shoulder oflamb by sliding your hand under it, being careful
not to tear it. Stuff the shoulder under the fell with about
half of the couscous mixture, pushing the couscous down as
far as possible. Sew the opening together carefully.
Melt the butter in a large pan and put in the lamb, fell
side up. Season with salt and pepper, add the onions and
saffron , and pour in 1 quart [1liter] of water.
Cover the pan and place over low heat. After 30 minutes,
turn the meat over gently, taking care not to pierce the
stuffed part. Baste from time to time with the cooking liquid.
The meat is done when it detaches easily from the bone, after
three to three and one half hours. At this point, add the
honey and the cinnamon stick to the cooking liquid. Cook,
uncovered, until the sauce thickens slightly. Then take the
pan off the heat.
About 30 minutes before serving time, remove the meat
from the pan, put it in a baking dish, and place in a preheated 425 F. [220 C.] oven until the surface is nicely browned.
Reheat the remaining couscous over boiling water. Reheat
the sauce and remove the cinnamon stick.
Put the meat on a warmed serving dish, pour the sauce
over it, and serve, accompanied by small bowls of the
extra couscous.
2 kg .
41b.
3 quarts
water
3 liters
l cup
% liter
2 tbsp.
oil
30 mi.
garlic cloves
2 tbsp.
salt
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
sugar
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
l tbsp.
peppercorns
15 mi.
Y2 tsp.
anise extract
2 mi.
cinnamon stick
Bring the water to a boil, add the radish slices and boil for 10
minutes. Add the lamb and boil for 15 minutes more. Re-
To serve 6 to 8
4 to 6 lb.
salt
celery ribs
bouquet garni
carrots, halved lengthwise
1 lb.
3
celeriac, quartered
7 tbsp.
butter
To serve 4
21b.
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
2 tbsp .
butter
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
egg yolk
V3 cup
egg
1 tsp.
%cup
5 mi.
Dill sauce
1 tsp.
white peppercorns
leek, cut into pieces
pepper
1 kg.
small carrot
105 mi.
2 to 3 kg.
5 mi.
heavy cream
75 mi.
119
3 1b.
% lb.
1 Y2 kg .
125 g.
MRS. J . ATRUTEL
AN EASY AND ECONOMICAL BOOK OF JEWISH COOKERY
2 oz.
60g.
carrot, sliced
onion, stuck with 1 who le clove
about
2 cups
4 to 5
4 to 5
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
Y2 liter
For the method of boning a lamb breast, see the demonstration on pages 10-11. The technique of stuffing a breast is
shown on pages 40-41.
To serve 6 to 8
Roll the pork lardons in salt , pepper and mixed spices; use
them to lard the lamb. Cook together in a casserole the salt
pork, carrot and onion. After about five minutes, put in the
lamb and brown it on all sides over medium heat. Add stock
or water to come two thirds of the way up the sides of the
lamb. Cover, and cook over low heat for about one hour.
Cook the turnips in the butter for five to 10 minutes,
until they are lightly glazed. Add them to the casserole a nd
cook for another 20 to 30 minutes, until both the lamb a nd
the turnips are tender. Degrease the cooking liquid, correct
the seasoning and serve.
OFFRAY AINE
LE CUISINIER MERIDIONAL
3 to
Sib.
2 tbsp.
lard
2
2
carrots, quartered
1 Y2 to
2 Y2 kg .
30 mi.
2
2
2Y2 cups
625 mi.
Chestnut stuffing
Y2 lb.
fresh chestnuts
%kg .
3 to 4 lb.
Y2 lb.
300 mi.
flour
15 mi.
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
ground saffron
1 mi.
Put the meat in a heavy pan with the salt, pepper, nutmeg
and water. Put in the celery and the garlic. Cover and let the
120
%kg .
mixed spices
onion, chopped and sauteed in lard
grated nutmeg
water
125 g.
1Y2 to 2 kg .
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
ml.] of rice in the broth before serving it. Slice the meat and
serve it separately, hot or cold.
2 to 3 kg.
4 to 6lb.
2 to
3 quarts
salted water
carrots
turnip
leeks
2 to
3liters
four
%cup
bouquet garni
3 tbsp.
o live oil
pepper
15 to 20
Y2 tsp.
Y2 cup
50 mi.
45 mi.
15 to 20
2 mi.
125 mi.
pepper
Y2 lb.
Y2 lb.
ground pork
y4
ground beef
%kg.
% cup
50 mi.
1 cup
chopped spinach
% liter
1 tbsp.
butter or oil
15 mi.
ga rli c cloves
2or3
sprigs parsley
kg.
2
2 or3
2
egg yolk
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
To prepare the stuffing, mix the pork, beef and rice. Saute
the spinach in the butter or oil for 10 minutes. Chop the
garlic and parsley together. Add the spinach, garlic, parsley
and bread to the meat mixture. Add the egg yolk and season
with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Knead all of the ingredients
thoroughly with your hands.
Loosely fill the pocket in the breast of lamb with the
stuffing; do not overfill it or it will burst during cooking. Sew
up the edges of the breast so that it forms a cushion shape.
Bring the salted water to a boil, and add the vegetables,
bouquet garni and pepper. Put in the stuffed breast, skim,
cover and simmer gently for two and one half hours, or until
the meat is tender.
Remove the stuffed breast and strain the cooking liquid
to use as a broth. If you wish, cook the remaining \4 cup [50
~'
fi
a~~
r...,
r.~ ~
,..'rC ,
J
121
4 to 6
lamb shanks
garlic clove
1 tsp.
salt
Y2 tsp.
black pepper
3 tbsp.
flour
1 tsp.
paprika
2 tbsp.
shortening
4 to 6
1
5 mi.
2 mi.
45 mi.
5 mi.
and the %cup [125 ml.J of water or stock. Cover and simmer
over low heat for one hour, adding more liquid if necessary.
Meanwhile, place the lentils in a saucepan with enough
water to cover them by 1 inch [2% cm.l Add the onion, bay
leaf, the remaining garlic clove and 1 Yz teaspoons [7 ml.J of
salt. Cover, and let the lentils simmer until just tender but
not mushy, about one hour. Do not let them boil.
Combine the lentils and lamb shanks in a casserole and
cover with the lentil liquid and whatever liquid is left from
the shanks. Place in a preheated 350F. [180C.)oven for 30
minutes, or until the lamb is tender. Add more water or stock
if the casserole cooks dry.
30 mi.
Y2 cu p
bay leaf
peppercorns
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
1 cup
Y4 liter
JAMES A. BEARD
THE FIRESIDE COOK BOOK
125 mi.
lemon wedges
Cut the garlic clove into four to six pieces and insert the
pieces into gashes made in the shanks. Season the shanks
with salt and pepper. Roll the meat in the flour, combined
with the paprika.
Brown the shanks in the shortening in a heavy skillet
or Dutch oven. Add all of the remaining ingredients except
the lemon wedges.
Cover and simmer until the meat is tender, two to two
and one half hours. Turn the shanks occasionally during
cooking and add more stock, if necessary. Serve garnished
with the lemon wedges.
JEANHEWITI
THE NEW YORK TIMES LARGE TYPE COOKBOOK
1 Y2 quarts water
3 cups
2Y2 to
31b.
2
1 Y2 liters
pureed tomato
%lite r
50 mi.
1 to
1 Y2 kg.
50 mi.
To serve 4
lamb shanks
2 tbsp.
4
30 mi.
garlic cloves
sprig thyme
Y2 cup
1Y2 cups
125 mi.
dried lentils
375 mi.
bay leaf
Sear the lamb shanks in the butter or olive oil until nicely
browned. Add salt and pepper, one garlic clove, the thyme
122
In a large pot, sprinkle the salt, pepper and garlic over the
lamb and saute over low heat until lightly browned on all
sides. Add the water and bring to a boil. Skim froth from the
top as it accumulates. Add the tomato and the lemon juice,
and simmer for one and one half hours, or until the meat is
partially tender and can be separated from the bones.
Lift out the meat with a slotted spoon and cool. Strain the
liquid in the pan and cool until the fat rises to the surface.
Skim with a spoon. Remove the meat from the bones and put
the meat back into the pot with the liquid.
Add the pumpkin and green pepper, and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat and simmer for one hour, until the pumpkin
and meat are tender. Add more salt, pepper and lemon juice,
if necessary. Add the mint and cook for one minute.
SHERYL LONDON
EGGPLANT AND SQUASH: A VERSATILE FEAST
12
12
o nio n, sliced
leek, chopped
heat until the chops are tender, about one hour. Take out the
chops and let them drain well. Then puree the tomatoes,
onion and cooking liquid through a sieve; the resulting gravy will be quite thick. Stir in the lemon juice. (A little cayenne pepper is always an improvement to the tomatoes.)
Turn the chops in the gravy. Return the chops and the gravy
to th e pan and reheat them; bring to a boil before you dish
them up, sprinkled with a little chopped parsley.
MRS. J . ATRUTEL
AN EASY AND ECONOMICAL BOOK OF JEWISH COOKERY
potatoes, sliced
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Y2 cup
125 mi.
Coat the inside of a heavy casserole with lard. Mix the onion,
leek, garlic and tomatoes, and stew half of this mixture in
the casserole until the vegetables are soft. Arrange the lamb
chops on top. Sprinkle with a little more of the vegetable
mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the lamb with
the pota toes and add the rest of the vegetable mixture.
Sprinkle with the oregano, and a little salt and pepper. Dot
with the diced lard. Add the stock, cover, and cook in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for 45 minutes. Uncover and
cook for about 15 minutes more. The lamb and potatoes must
be completely tender.
F RANCO LAGA'ITOLLA
THE RECIPES THAT MADE A MILLION
1 tbsp.
butter
Y2 cup
Y2 cup
white w ine
125 mi.
125 mi.
12
3 or 4
15 mi.
12
125 g .
To serve 4
mutton cho ps, cut 1 inch [2 Y2 em.]
thick and trimmed of excess fat
4
3 or4
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
30 mi.
tarragon vinegar
15 mi.
w ater
% liter
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
Sprinkle the chops with salt a nd pepper, and fry them in the
butter until lightly browned. Pour the wine and stock over
the chops, add the boiling onions, cover the pan and simmer
for 30 minutes.
Add the salt pork, carrot, parsley root, savory, parsley
and vinegar, correct the seasoning and simmer for another
10 minutes, or until the chops and vegetables are tender.
FRED METZLER AND KLAUS OSTER
AAL BLAU UNO ERROTHETES MADCHEN
123
2 oz.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
3 or 4
sprigs parsley
3 or 4
3 or4
sprigs savory
3 or4
y4 lb.
125 g.
onions, sliced
carrots, diced
6
60 g.
parsnip, diced
2 tbsp.
olive oil
30 mi.
1 cup
Y4
Y2 cup
125 mi.
LE MANUEL DE LA FRIANDISE
lard
105 mi.
Civet de Cheureau
For this Italian dish, the quantity of meat may be increased
if desired; kid contains a high proportion of bone.
To serve 4
2Y2 lb.
Y2 cup
1 Y4 kg .
o il
125 mi.
Y3 cup
chopped onio n
1 Y4 cups
Y2
cup
2 cups
red wine
75 mi.
5
300 mi.
7
125 mi.
5
Y2
liter
salted water
flour
onions, chopped
12
12
boiling water
sugar
Kid Stew
bay leaf
7 tbsp.
JOAN POULSON
OLD LANCASHIRE RECIPES
liter
Lard the chops with the pork fatback. Saute them gently in
the butter with the parsley and savory for about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the ham, onions, carrots and parsnip in
the oil until the vegetables are just tender. Transfer the
chops to the pan with the ham and vegetables. Deglaze the
saute pan with the Champagne or wine, and pour the deglazing liquid and the stock over the meats and vegetables. Simmer until the chops are cooked and the sauce is reduced,
about 15 minutes. Transfer the chops to a warmed serving
platter. Degrease the sauce and spoon it over the chops.
In a heavy pot, heat the oil and cook the onion until it is
golden. Add the pieces of kid. When the meat is lightly
browned, add the garlic, cheese and parsley. Stir in the wine
and a llow it to reduce by two thirds. Add the potatoes and
stock or salted water. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for
25 to 30 minutes, or until the meat is tender.
Transfer the meat and potatoes to a warmed serving platter. Strain the sauce and pass it separately in a sauceboat.
For a family meal, the dish may be served in the cooking pot.
PIERRE ANDROU ET
LA CUISINE AU FROMAGE
1 Y2 kg.
7 tbsp.
butter
105 mi.
1 tsp.
pepper
5m l.
Y2
salt
2 mi.
2 mi.
tsp.
% tsp.
ground saffron
1 Y2 quarts water
21b.
salt. Add the thyme and another layer of sliced onions. Cover
with the whole potatoes. Season again and add the water.
Cover the pot with foil and with a very tight-fitting lid.
Cook in a preheated 350 F . [180 C.] oven for two and one
half hours or simmer gently over low heat on top of t he stove
for the same time. Correct the seasoning. The thinly sliced
potatoes at the bottom of the pot should dissolve and thicken
the juice, while the potatoes on top retain their shape. This
stew is very easy on the digestion.
MONICA SHERIDAN
MY IRISH COOK BOOK
1 Y2 liters
1 lb.
[Y2
liter])
La Carbounade
1 kg .
To serve 6
Y2
kg.
Put the lamb in a large pan with the butter, one of the onions, the pepper, salt, saffron and water. Bring to a boil,
cover partially, and cook over medium heat for one hour.
Add in turn the quinces, the remaining onions, the tomatoes and finally the okra. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20
to 25 minutes, or until the meat and vegetables are tender.
Put the meat in the center of a serving dish and the quinces
around the edge. Pour the okra and the sauce over all .
2 tbsp.
To serve 6
1 Y2 kg .
12
30 mi.
bay leaf
2 cups
o live o il
grated nutmeg
Irish Stew
%kg.
sa lt and pepper
FETIOUMA BENKIRANE
LA NOUVELLE CUISINE MAROCAINE
3 lb.
Y2
liter
Into a heavy pot put the thinly sliced potatoes, then a layer of
sliced onions and then the pieces of lamb. Season well with
12
boiling onions
l ib.
1 lb.
12
Y2 kg.
celery heart
tomato, peeled and seeded
Y2
6
cup
white wine
small artichokes, trimmed, chokes
removed, placed in water with lemon
juice to prevent blackening
125 mi.
Using a small, sharp knife, cut slits in the lamb slices. Insert
the slices of garlic and t he lardons into the slits.
In a large, heavy casserole, heat the olive oil and saute
the chopped salt pork until it begins to brown. Over brisk
heat, brown the lamb a few slices at a time, turning the slices
until they are golden on both sides. Season with salt, pepper
and a little nutmeg. Add the bay leaf, onions, carrots, turnips, celery and tomato, and saute for a few minutes, stirring
with a wooden spoon. Add the wine. Drain the artichokes
and add them. Cover the casserole tightly and simmer the
mixture over low heat for one and one half to two hours, or
until the meat is tender.
IRENE LABARRE AND JEAN MERCIER
LA CUISINE DU MOUTON
125
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
thyme
15ml.
mixture into the pan. Cook over medium heat until the sauce
is thickened and well reduced.
Grill the lamb tenderloins over hot coals for about 10
minutes, leaving them pink in the center. Slice them thin
and add the slices to the sauce. Heat for a few minutes.
Mix the egg yolks with the milk. Off the heat, stir the
yolk mixture into the sauce. Reheat it without letting the
sauce boil. Season the sauce well. Immediately before serving, stir in the vinegar.
IL CUOCO PIEMONTESE RIDOTTO ALL'ULTIMO GUSTO
slices bacon
Y2 cup
flour
3 tbsp.
lard o r butter
Y2 cup
125 mi.
%cup
wine
125 mi.
125 mi.
45 mi.
Estofado de Molto
Sobrasada, a specialty of the Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean near the coast of Spain, is a smooth-textured fresh
pork sausage, spiced with cayenne pepper. If sobrasada is not
available, another hot fresh sausage may be substituted.
To serve 8
6 to 9 lb.
2 tbsp.
lard
3 to 4 Y2 kg.
30 mi.
oil
lib.
1 lb.
Y2 kg.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
Y2 lb.
%kg.
bouquet garni
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
1 cup
% liter
egg yo lks
Y2 cup
milk
3
125 mi.
vinegar
15 mi.
30 mi.
sa lt and pepper
cayenne pepper
8
1 cup
Y4 liter
l ib.
Y2 kg.
and sage. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook the
mixture over low heat until the meat is tender, about one
and one halfhours. (Add water if the pieces dry up too much.)
Place the slices of bread in individual soup plates. When
the meat is cooked, pour the broth and the meat over the
bread, and serve.
NICE CORTELLI LUCREZI
LE RICETTE DELLA NONNA
o nion, chopped
Y2 lb.
Y4 kg.
30 mi.
hot water
about
Y2 liter
To serve 8
4lb.
Y4 cup
Y2 cup
o live oil
50 mi.
Cognac
125 mi.
2 kg.
1 Y2 cups
white wine
about
2 cups
5 mi.
375 mi.
3
about
Y2 liter
6
21b.
Y4 cup
o il
50 mi.
2 tbsp.
lard
30 mi.
Y4 cup
50 mi.
heshsageleave~chopped
1 kg.
127
21b.
1 kg .
butter
60 mi.
3 or 4
o nions, chopped
3 or 4
Y2 tsp.
2
2
grated nutmeg
2 mi.
ca rrots, diced
turnips, d iced
la mb, plunge it into cold water and drain it again. Heat the
oil or butter, add the lamb, cover and cook for a bout five
minutes. Sprinkle with the flour and stir until all of the lamb
pieces are coated with flour. Add enough hot water to cover
the lamb completely. Add salt, pepper, the onions and the
bouquet garni. Cover and cook over low heat for one and a
half hours, or until the meat begin s to fall off the bones.
Transfer the pieces of lamb to. a deep, hea ted serving
dish. Beat the egg yolks and lemon juice lightly with a few
spoonfuls of the cooking liquid and, off the heat, gradually
stir this mixture into the pan. Cook for a minute or two,
without boiling, until the sauce thickens. Sieve the sauce
onto the lamb, sprinkle with parsley and serve.
PAUL BOUJLLARD
LA CUISINE AU COIN DU FEU
2Y2 cups
Blanquette d'Agneau
600 mi.
6
In a large pan, brown the lamb and salt pork in the butter.
Remove the meats from the pan, pou r off th e excess fat, add
the onions and cook for 10 minutes, or until golden. Return
the meats to the pan with the nutmeg, carrots, turnips, celery, cabbage, leek, and the stock or water. Cover, and simmer over low heat for one hour, or until the meat is nearly
tender. Arrange the potatoes in a layer on the meat, cover,
and cook for 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are done.
ONS KOOKBOEK
1 kg.
21b.
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
sa lt and pepper
onions, each stuck with a whole clove
1 or 2
egg yolks
3 tbsp.
1 or 2
45 mi.
Put the lamb in a saucepan, cover with cold water and place
over h igh heat. When the water comes to a boil, drain the
128
To serve 6
4 to 61b.
2 to 3 kg .
salt
3
3
3 tbsp.
butter
45 mi.
1 tbsp.
flour
15 mi.
sprigs thyme
1 tbsp.
fi nes herbes
15ml.
egg yolks
4 to 6 lb.
2 to 3 kg.
% lb.
125 g.
small turnips
1 tbsp.
1 cup
flour
9
15 mi.
% liter
Stirring continuously, continue cooking until all of the ingredients have browned all over.
For lamb in red wine, season with salt and pepper, pour
in the red wine and cover the pan. Cook gently for one hour,
or until the meat is tender. For lamb in stock, pour the stock
over the meat, add the potatoes, season with salt and pepper,
cover, and cook over gentle heat for about an hour, or until
the meat is tender.
Cut about half of the cheese into small pieces and grate
the rest. Five minutes before serving, add all of the cheese to
the sauce to thicken it.
PINO CORRENTI
IL LIBRO D' ORO DELLA CUCINA E DEI VINI OJ SICILIA
bouquet garni
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
vinegar
croutons (recipe, poge 167), fried in butter
In a saute pan, brown the lamb with the salt-pork strips and
transfer the lamb to a saucepan. Brown the turnips lightly
with the salt pork, sprinkle them with the flour and add
them to the lamb. Deglaze the saute pan with the stock and
pour the liquid into the saucepan. Season with the bouquet
garni, salt, pepper and vinegar. Cover the saucepan and simmer gently for one to one and one half hours, or until the
meat is tender. Degrease the sauce and discard the bouquet
garni. Serve the stew garnished with croutons.
41b.
3Y2 oz.
Y2
oil
cup
onion, chopped
garlic cloves
Egg liaison
2 kg.
6 tbsp.
olive oil
75 mi.
lord
90 mi.
50 mi.
14 cup
21b.
6 oz.
bouquet garni
125 mi.
PIERRE DE LUNE
LE NOUVEAU CUISINIER
41b.
2 kg .
lOOg .
175 mi.
1 kg.
175 g.
Fry the onion in the oil in a deep pan and, when it begins to
brown, add the lard, parsley, garlic and the pieces of meat.
egg yolks
2;3 cup
150 mi.
Y2
heavy cream
125 mi.
cup
3 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
45 mi.
flour
15ml.
Put the salt pork into a skillet and set it over low heat until
the fat begins to run. Add the oil and increase the heat.
Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Brown it in the pork
fat and oil, then add the onion, garlic cloves and bouquet
garni. Cover, and cook over very low heat until the lamb is
tender, about half an hour. Remove the pan from the heat.
Drain off the excess oil from the pan and discard the garlic
cloves and bouquet garni.
Beat together all of the ingredients for the liaison and
stir this mixture into the pan containing the lamb. Return
the pan to low heat and, stirring constantly, cook until the
sauce thickens.
LOUISMONOD
LA CUISINE FLORENTINE
129
To serve 6 to 8
1 Y2 kg.
3lb.
1 Y2 tsp.
ground ginger
7 mi.
1 tsp.
ground saffron
5 mi.
Y2 cup
oil
Sliced salt pork, blanched for five minutes, can be used instead ofpork fat to line the pot. Cepes and the vegetables from
the marinade can be added to the stew with the onion and
diced salt pork.
To serve 6 to 8
3 to 4 lb.
125 mi.
21b.
10
3 tbsp.
10
45 mi.
Place the lamb pieces, ginger, saffron, garlic, oil and salt in a
large saucepan. Cover with water, bring to a boil, reduce the
heat, cover and cook for two hours, or until the meat is
tender. During cooking add boiling water, if necessary, to
keep the meat immersed.
Remove the meat. Put the artichoke bottoms in another
saucepan, pour in half of the lamb cooking liquid and enough
additional water to cover the artichokes. Bring the liquid to
a boil, then simmer the artichokes gently until tender, about
15 minutes. Remove the artichoke bottoms with a slotted
spoon and boil the liquid to reduce it to a thick sauce, about
10 minutes. Check the seasoning.
Meanwhile, cook the beans in the remaining lamb cooking liquid and enough additional water to cover them, for
five minutes, or until tender. Lift out the beans and boil the
liquid to reduce it to a thick sauce.
Combine the lamb, artichoke bottoms, beans and reduced cooking liquids in the large saucepan. Add the preserved lemon and the olives. Simmer over low heat for about
15 minutes to reheat the meat and vegetables. Transfer the
lamb to a round serving dish and cover it with the vegetables. Sprinkle with the lemon juice, pour the sauce over everything and serve very hot.
LATIFA BENNANI SMIRES
LA CUISINE MAROCAINE
130
125 g .
mixed spices
6 to 8
1 kg.
1Y2 to 2 kg .
salt
6 to 8
2 tbsp.
brandy
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
2 cups
red wine
Y2 liter
Y2 cup
olive oil
125 mi.
4
2
2
2
carrots, chopped
sprigs thyme
4
2
2
2
bay leaf
sprig parsley
% lb.
125 g.
125 g.
salt
bouquet garni, including a piece of
dried orange peel
2 cups
2!J cup
Y2 liter
150 mi.
liquid from the marinade over the meat. Pour in the stock.
Place the remaining slices of pork fat on top. Cover the pot
tightly with its lid and seal on the lid with a strip of flourand-water paste or with foil.
Place in a preheated 250 F . [120 C.] oven and cook for
five hours. Serve the stew straight from the pot.
70 MEDECINS DE FRANCE
LE TRESOR DE LA CUISINE DU BASSIN MEDITERRANEEN
Eggplant Royal-Style
To serve 4
1 lb.
Y2 kg.
1 tbsp.
butter
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
pureed tomato
30 mi.
l cup
wa ter
%liter
1 Y2 kg.
3 1b.
Y2 tsp.
salt
2 mi.
1 tsp.
pepper
5 mi.
Y2 tsp.
ground saffron
2 mi.
Patlijan H unkar
oil
Y2 cup
1 Y2 quarts water
125 mi.
1 Y2 liters
large eggplants
YJ cup
chopped celery
75 mi.
Cheese sauce
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
Y4 liter
1 cup
milk
Eggplant puree
41b.
Y2 cup
8
oil
2 kg.
125 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Y2 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
ground cumin
2ml.
salt
2 mi.
Saute the lamb in the butter and, when brown, add the onion
and continue to saute until the onion is golden in color. Add
the pureed tomato, water, salt and pepper, and mix together.
Cover the pan and cook over medium heat or bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for about one hour.
Meanwhile, broil the eggplants. Do not be alarmed when
the skin gets black or burned. When the eggplants are soft,
drop them into cold water to make them easier to handle.
Peel off the skin and mash the flesh.
For the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the
flour and brown lightly. Gradually add the milk, then cook,
stirring, until a smooth, thick sauce is formed. Stir in the
grated cheese.
Add this sauce to the mashed eggplant and beat well
until the mixture is about the consistency of light, fluffy
mashed potatoes. Reheat the mixture in the oven or in a
steamer and pile on dinner plates with a ladleful of lamb
saute on top of each serving. Sprinkle the chopped celery on
top of the meat.
Put the lamb into a casserole with the salt and pepper, saffron, onions, garlic and oil. Add the water, bring to a boil,
cover partially, and cook over medium heat for 45 minutes to
an hour, or until the meat is very tender.
Meanwhile, fry the eggplant slices in the oil until golden
brown on both sides, about five minutes. Drain the slices on
paper towels and use a fork to mash them into a puree while
they are still hot.
Put the tomatoes into a pan with the garlic, parsley, coriander, cumin and salt. Stirring frequently, cook uncovered
over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until thick and pulpy.
Add the eggplant puree and, stirring constantly, cook until
all excess liquid has evaporated.
Serve the meat covered with the eggplant puree and
sprinkled with the braising liquid.
GEORGE MARDIKIAN
DINNER AT OMAR KHA YYAM'S
FETTOUMA BENKIRANE
LA NOUVELLE CUISINE MAROCAINE
131
l ib.
Y2 kg.
l tbsp.
oil
15 mi.
%cup
50 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
l tbsp.
l5ml.
% tsp.
cayenne pepper
l mi.
Kapama
l tsp.
5 mi.
Heat the oil in a skillet and add the garlic and lamb. Fry for a
minute or two, then add the green peppers and scallions. Fry
for another minute and add the soy sauce, rice wine, vinegar,
cayenne pepper and lemon peel. Cook the mixture for three
to four minutes longer, then transfer it to a warmed serving
dish and serve immediately.
PETER AND JOAN MARTIN
JAPANESE COOKING
2 or3
thyme
basil
2 cups
Y2 liter
lib.
Y2 kg .
l tbsp.
15 mi.
To
serve 8
61b.
36
3 kg.
36
lemon
Y2
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
Y2 tbsp.
sugar
7ml.
salt
125 mi.
ALBIN MARTY
FOURMIGUETTO: SOUVENIRS, CONTES ET RECETTES DU LANGUEDOC
l cup
water
%liter
%cup
50 mi.
1 lb.
salt
carrots, diced
shredded cabbage
bay leaves
375 mi.
crease the heat, and stir until the onions are lightly caramelized to an appetizing brown.
In another pan, at the same time, brown the pieces of
lamb in the remaining butter. Season with salt, pepper and
cayenne. When the onions are right, stir in the flour, paprika
and bouquet garni. Cook for a few minutes, then add enough
stock to make a creamy sauce. Put in the meat, and cover.
Simmer for at least one and one quarter hours, or until
the meat begins to fall from the bones. Every quarter of an
hour check on the liquid and thickness, adding a tumbler
more of stock when necessary. This way of cooking means
you have a sauce with a good strong flavor; if you take the lid
off the pan after 30 minutes, the sauce will reduce even
more, but you will have to add extra stock more frequently.
Before serving, check the seasoning, adding a little more
cayenne if you like. Skim or blot away the surface fat.
JANE GRIGSON
FOOD WITH THE FAMOUS
whole cloves
Place the meat in a pan and cover with water. Cover the pan
and bring to a boil. Add the whole potatoes. Add salt, reduce
the heat, cover, and simmer for one hour, or until the meat is
tender. If necessary, add water to keep the meat covered.
Remove the meat from the pan. Remove the bones. Slice
or dice the meat and place it in another pan. Add the remaining vegetables in layers, including the sliced potatoes. Add
the bay leaves, a pinch of pepper and the cloves.
Sieve the whole potatoes and stir them back into the
cooking liquid. Pour the liquid over the meat and vegetables.
Cover and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Sprinkle with parsley or dill, and serve.
KULINARISCHE GERICHTE
Le Salabondin
To serve 4
1 kg.
21b.
%lb.
125 g.
2 tbsp.
oil
30 mi.
Lamb Hungarian-Style
Agneau ala Hongroise
about
4 cups
water
1 Y2 cups
To serve 6 to 8
1 Y2 to 2 kg .
3 to 4 lb.
12
7 tbsp.
butter
105 mi.
1 tbsp.
sugar
15 mi.
12
flour
22 mi.
1 Y2 tbsp.
Hungarian paprika
22 mi.
bouquet garni
1 quart
1
1 liter
about
1 liter
4
375 mi.
Place the salt pork in a saucepan with the oil and cook over
low heat until the fat runs. Increase the heat, add the lamb
and brown the pieces on all sides. Stir in the onions, then the
tomatoes, salt and pepper. Cover with water. Cover and
bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the potatoes and olives. Cook for 30 minutes longer-adding more water if necessary-until the lamb and
the potatoes are tender. Correct the seasoning, which should
be rather peppery.
SUZANNE SIMONET
LEGRAND LIVRE DE LA CUISINE OCCITANE
133
add the herbs, cover the dish and put it in a preheated 325 F.
[160 C.] oven. Bake for about one and one half hours, then
uncover the dish and bake for a further 30 minutes, or until
the mutton is tender and all of the water is a bsorbed.
1 to 1 Y2 kg.
2 to 31b.
4 tbsp.
butter
Y3 cup
flour
75 mi.
2 cups
Y2
60 mi.
2
liter
carrots, sliced
MRS. J. ATRUTEL
AN EASY AND ECONOMICAL BOOK OF JEWISH COOKERY
turnip, diced
1
rutabaga, diced
potatoes
2Y2 lb.
garlic cloves
whole clove
bouquet garni, including a celery rib
cup
flour
small tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2/3
cup
Y2
lb.
To serve 4
7 tbsp.
1 Y2 to 2 kg .
% tsp.
ground saffron
1 cup
about
3 cups
water
about
%liter
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
1 mi.
Y4
liter
4
Put the onion at the bottom of a deep baking dish; add salt,
pepper and the saffron. Add the rice and potatoes to the dish,
then put in the pieces of mutton. Fill the dish with the water,
butter
125 mi.
2
150 mi.
y4 kg.
105 mi.
sugar
21b.
15 mi.
1
Y2
o nion, sliced
134
lard or oil
large onion, stuck with 1 o r 2 whole cloves
3 to 4 lb.
1 kg .
Salt and pepper the meat. Heat the lard or oil in a large
saucepan. Put in the meat, the large onion, carrots, garlic,
clove and bouquet garni. Saute quickly until brown.
Sprinkle in the flour, stir, and transfer the mixture to a
heavy casserole. Put the casserole, uncovered , into a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven and leave it for five minutes.
Remove the casserole from the oven and spoon out all accumulated fat. Add the tomatoes and the wine, if using, and fill
the casserole with water just to the top of its contents. Lightly salt the mixture, bring to a boil and skim it. Cover the
casserole and return it to the oven, reducing the heat to
350 F. [180 C.]. Cook for one hour.
Meanwhile, place the small onions in a saucepan with
the butter, salt and a pinch of sugar. Cook over low heat until
the onions are golden brown and glazed-about 20 minutes.
Transfer the meat to a saute pan and put the potatoes and
onions on top. Strain and degrease the sauce and pour it into
the pa n, adding water if necessary to cover the vegetables.
Cover the pan with buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook
over medium heat until the potatoes and la mb are done,
about 20 minutes. Correct the seasoning a nd serve.
H. HEYRAUD
LA CUISINE A NICE
brown them evenly. Cover the pan and cook over medium
heat for 45 minutes to one hour, or until the lamb is tender.
Meanwhile, put the remaining butter into a saucepan,
add the peas and place over high heat. When the butter has
melted, add the stock and the parsley. Bring the stock to a
boil, then reduce the heat and cook the peas over low heat for
a nother 10 minutes, or until done.
When the lamb and peas are both cooked, mix the two
together. Remove the parsley, add salt to taste and serve in a
warmed, deep serving dish.
JEANNE SA VARIN (EDITOR)
LA CUISINE DES FAMILLES
Y2 lb.
3,4 kg.
5 tbsp.
75 mi.
%cup
flour
l tsp.
paprika
l cup
warm water
Y4 liter
2 cups
Y2 liter
50 mi.
2
5 mi.
salt
To serve 2 or 3
lib.
4 to 61b.
10 tbsp.
butter
3 cups
l 1,!3 cups
2 to 3 kg.
150 mi.
!4 liter
325 mi.
sprig parsley
salt
Melt half of the butter in a saute pan. Add the lamb and
brown over high heat for five minutes, turning the pieces to
Y2 kg.
l
2 tsp.
salt
l tsp.
ground ginger
5ml.
l tsp.
grou nd saffron
5ml.
l cup
water
2 cups
o live oil
lib.
Y2 kg.
2 tsp.
l Oml.
2 tbsp.
sugar
30 mi.
lOml.
Y4 liter
Y2 liter
135
6 to 8 lb.
Y2 lb.
3 to 4 kg.
Y2 cup
olive oil
125 mi.
salt
Haricot de Mouton
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
Saute the pumpkin and cabbage in the oil for a few minutes.
Add the lamb, and season with salt, a good pinch of coriander
and the harissa sauce. Pour in enough water to come just to
the top level of the meat. Cover, and cook over low heat for
two hours, or until tender.
LEON ISNARD
LA GASTRONOMIE AFRICAINE
The name of this dish comes from the old French "halicoter,"
which means "to cut up finely."
To serve 4
4 to 6 lb.
2 to 3 kg.
sprig thyme
bay leaf
2 Y2 cups
1 Y2 kg.
Y2 cup
3
o il
125 mi.
Y2 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
% tsp.
1 Y2 q uarts
ground ginger
2 mi.
salt
2 mi.
g round saffron
1 mi.
wa ter
3
3
1 Y2 liters
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
paprika
15 mi.
Y2
ground cumin
tsp.
2 mi.
Put the lamb in a large pan with the oil, onions a nd garlic.
Season with the ginger, salt and saffron, and add the water.
Bring to a boil , cover t he pan par tially, and reduce the heat
136
625 mi.
4 or 5
4 or 5
4 tbsp.
butter
60 mi.
Cover the bottom of a heavy casserole with the onions, carrots, thyme and bay leaf. Lay the meat on top. Sprinkle with
half of the stock. Cook uncovered over low heat for about 40
minutes, or until most of the liquid has evaporated. Add the
r emaining stock, season with salt and pepper, cover, a nd
simmer for two hours over very low heat.
Meanwhile, fry the turnips in the butter for about 20
minutes, until they are browned and t ender.
Take the pieces of lamb from the casserole and remove
the largest bones. Stra in the cooking liquid, degrease it carefully, a nd r educe it over high heat if necessary to achieve the
desired consistency. Place the lamb and turnips in a warmed
serving dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve very hot.
JULES BRETEUIL
LE CUISINIER EUROPEEN
l kg .
21b.
onions, sliced
3 or 4
3 or 4
Y4
oil
SO mi.
cup
paprika
Y2
Y2
ground cinnamon
tsp.
cup
9 cups
lOml.
2 mi.
Breton Cassoulet
l2S mi.
2Y4
Cassoulet Breton
To serve 6
liters
l lb.
3 or 4
3 or 4
3 or 4
3 or 4
3 or 4
3 or4
dried chili
Y2
tsp.
ras e/ hanout
2 mi.
3 or 4
3 or 4
lib.
Y2
7 tbsp.
10
small onions
kg.
10
sa lt and pepper
bouquet garni
lOS mi.
Put the meat into the bottom of a couscoussier and add one of
the sliced onions, the pureed tomatoes, oil, salt, black pepper, paprika and cinnamon. Cook gently over low heat until
the mixture begins to stick. Add about 3 quarts [3 liters] of
water and bring the mixture to a boil. Add the chick-peas
and reduce the heat to maintain a light boil.
Fill the upper section of the couscoussier with the couscous and place it over t he simmering liquid. About 15 to 20
minutes after steam has become visible a bove the surface of
the couscous, remove the couscous and transfer it to a wide,
shallow bowl. Break up the couscous pellets with a spoon,
sprinkle them with cold water and crumble them lightly
with your finger tips, tossing to separate the pellets and
aerate the couscous.
Add the carrots, turnips, potatoes and chili to the meat
and broth. Return t he couscous to the upper section of the
couscoussier and place it again over the simmering meat.
garlic cloves
2 cups
Y2
lite r
Place the lamb and salt pork in a saucepan with the onions
and tomatoes. Season, add the bouquet garni a nd garlic, a nd
cover with water. Bring to a boil, skim, and simmer very
gently for about one hour. Add the beans and sausages, and
cook for 30 to 45 minutes more, or until the beans are tender.
Turn the cassoulet into an oval earthenware dish and
place in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven. Bake for 20
minutes, or until t he surface is golden and bubbling. Serve
in the earthenware dish.
EDOUARD NIGNON (EDITOR)
LE LIVRE DE CUISINE DE L'OUESTECLAIR
137
Chanakhi
This is a Central Asian dish that has made its way to Russia.
To serve 3 or 4
1 lb.
4
2
% lb.
21b.
kg.
carrots, sliced
Y2
Y2
y4
15 mi.
salt a nd pepper
2 cups
Y2
water
liter
flou r
15 mi.
1 cu p
Y4 liter
Place the cubes of lamb in a casserole, preferably earthenware. Add the onion, potatoes, tomatoes, beans and eggplant. Sprinkle with parsley, season with salt and pepper,
and pour in the water. Cover and cook in a preheated 350 F.
[180 C.] oven for one and one half to two hours, or until the
meat is tender. Serve in the casserole.
THE ACADEMY OF MEDICAL SCIENCE OF THE U.S.S.R.
KNIGA 0 VKUSNOII ZDOROVOI P ISHCHE
1 kg.
salt
kg.
To serve 4
Spinach Stew
Misov Spannak
To serve 4
5 mi.
Y2
2 mi.
tsp.
2 cups
Y2
1 tsp .
2 cups
water
Y2
1 lb.
%kg.
page 165)
egg yolks
3 tbsp.
flour
%cup
oil
15 mi.
1 kg.
Y4 liter
Y4 liter
wa ter
Saute the meat in the oil until brown, add the onion, and
cook slowly for 15 minutes so that the onion will cook but not
brown. Add the spinach, tomato juice or sauce, salt and pepper, and water. Cover, a nd cook the stew until it is well
blended, about one hour.
GEORGE MARDIKIAN
DINNER AT OMAR KHA YY AM'S
138
salt
90 mi.
1 tbsp.
1 cup
1 tsp.
vegetable oil
1 cup
6 tbsp.
lib.
2 1b.
1 Y2 kg.
31b.
liter
5 mi.
liter
3
45 mi.
125 mi.
Pat the la mb cubes dry with paper towels and season them
with the salt and pepper. In a large heavy casserole, heat 4
tablespoons [60 ml.] of the oil over medium heat. Brown the
la mb, seven or eight pieces at a time, turning the cubes
frequently. As th ey brown, tra nsfer the cubes to a plate.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of oil to the
casserole, then drop in the onions and garlic. Stirring fre-
t er, set the lid ajar, and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove the
lid, and continue to simmer until the lamb is cooked and the
liquid reduced to a thick sauce, about 15 minutes. Remove
the cinnamon stick .
Add the fruit and simmer slowly for about 15 minutes.
Add the honey and cook for another 15 minutes. Add the
orange-flower water and bring the mixture to a boil. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve immediately.
HARVA HACHTEN
KITCHEN SAFARI
lib.
dried apricots
onions, chopped
1Y2 kg.
Y2 kg.
2
oil
1 tbsp.
flour
1 tsp.
ground coriander
5 mi.
15ml.
Y2 tsp.
/4 tsp.
grou nd ginger
2 mi.
ground cinnamon
4 mi.
Ys tsp.
ground pepper
Y2 tsp.
salt
Y2 mi.
2 mi.
21b.
1 kg.
Y4 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
ground ginger
1 mi.
ground saffron
1 mi.
Y2 tsp.
ground saffron
salt
1 mi.
1 tbsp.
sugar
15 mi.
3 tbsp.
olive oil
45 mi.
2 tsp.
rose wa ter
10ml.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
1 Y2 -inch
stick cinnamon
4-cm.
ground pepper
1
1 lb.
Y2 kg.
%cup
honey
50 mi.
1 tsp.
1 tbsp.
5 mi.
15 mi.
Combine the lamb, ginger, saffron , salt, oil, coriander, cinnamon stick, pepper and onion. Cover the mixture with wa-
V3
cup
75 mi.
2 mi.
MALVINA W. LIEBMAN
JEWISH COOKERY FROM BOSTON TO BAGHDAD
139
El Lahm El M'Qali
Abbacchio Brodettato
To serve 6
To serve 4
y4
2 1b.
2% lb.
Y2
Y2
Y2
cup
corn oil
125 mi.
tsp.
ground ginger
2 mi.
l tbsp.
lard
tsp.
turmeric
2ml.
2Y2 oz.
prosciutto, diced
l tsp.
ground coriander
5 mi.
% tsp.
ground saffron
l mi.
l tsp.
5 mi.
Y2 cup
2 tsp.
salt
lOml.
about
2 cups
boiling water
egg yolks
Y2
kg.
2 cups
l q uart
water
l liter
2or3
2or3
30 to 40
30 to 40
%cup
liter
50 mi.
Pour the oil into a heavy 4-quart [4-liter] casserole, then mix
into it until smooth the ginger, turmeric, coriander, saffron,
garlic and salt. Turn on the heat and add the chopped onions,
mixing thoroughly. Cover and simmer for a few minutes
until the onions begin to soften, then add the lamb and water
and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the lemons;
cover and simmer for about 45 minutes, or until the lamb is
tender. With a skimmer, remove any foam that has risen to
the top. Refrigerate the mixture overnight.
The next day remove all of the fat that has solidified on
top of the liquid. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb and
lemons to a bowl. Boil the liquid briskly, uncovered, until it
reduces and thickens slightly-about 10 to 15 minutes. Return the lamb and lemons to this sauce. Add the olives, cover, and simmer the stew for about three minutes. Taste for
seasoning and correct if necessary. Just before serving, mix
in the chopped parsley. Serve accompanied with boiled rice
or with flat Arab bread.
CAROL CUTLER
HAUTE CUISINE FOR YOUR HEART'S DELIGHT
l kg.
flour
Y2 tbsp.
15 mi.
75 g.
125 mi.
about
liter
Y2
22 mi.
l tbsp.
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Coat the lamb lightly with flour. Brown the lamb in the lard
with the prosciutto and onion. Season with salt and pepper,
and add the wine and boiling water to cover the lamb. Cover
and cook slowly for one hour, or until the lamb is tender.
Beat the egg yolks with the lemon juice, marjoram and
parsley. Stir this mixture gradually into the lamb mixture,
keeping the pan warm, but not directly over the heat. Continue to stir until the egg yolks thicken the cooking liquid.
FRANCA FESLIKENIAN
CUCINA E VINI DEL LAZIO
Y2 -inch
l lb.
%cup
2-inch
stick cinnamon
Y4
tsp.
Y2 kg .
3
50 mi.
6
5-cm.
salt
6m l.
3
3 cups
worm wate r
l tbsp.
sugar
15 mi.
2 cups
Y2 liter
14 liter
Fry the sliced onions in the oil or ghee until golden brown.
Drain off excess oil, keeping only 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] in the
14 0
pan. Add the garlic-and-ginger paste and cook for five minutes. Add the meat and chopped onion, and cook until all
liquid has evaporated. Add the cinnamon, salt and Vz cup
[125 ml.] of warm water, cover a nd simmer for 15 minutes.
Add the remaining warm water and simmer, covered, u ntil
the meat is tender and only Vz cup of gravy remains, about
one and one half hours.
Put the sugar in a small pan. Place over medium heat
and let the sugar brown. Remove from the heat. Add the
water in which the apricots were soaked. Stir over low heat
until the caramelized sugar is dissolved. Add the apricots,
cover and cook for 10 or 15 minutes until the apricots are
soft. Add the apricots, together with their syrup, to the meat.
Heat the mixture and serve.
brown puree to the cooking liquid with the capers, and simmer for 10 minutes, skimming. If the sauce is not thick
enough, thicken it with a little butter worked with flour.
Correct the seasoning, and serve in a gravy boat as an accompaniment to the meat.
ALBIN MARTY
FOURMIGUETTO: SOUVENIRS, CONTES ET RECETTES DU LANGUEDOC
JEROOMEHTA
101 PARSI RECIPES
To serve 4 to 6
lib.
6 to 81b.
7 tbsp.
1 cup
%liter
3 tbsp.
flour
45 mi.
2
105 mi.
8
Y2 liter
2 cups
%cup
sorrel leaves
175 mi.
%cup
spinach leaves
175 mi.
butter
30 to 45 mi.
30 mi.
Saute the shallots in the goose fat. When they are lightly
browned, remove them and saute the meat. Add the garlic,
parsley and shallots, and sprinkle with flou r . After two minutes, season with salt and pepper, and pour in the white
wine. Cover and cook until tender-30 minutes to one hour,
depending on the age of the meat. Transfer the meat to a
serving dish and keep warm.
Cook the sorrel and spinach in the butter until they soften, then pass them through a fine sieve. Add this greenish
2 cups
Y2 liter
%lb.
125 g.
%lb.
125 g.
1Y2 cups
1 tsp.
salt
5 mi.
Y2 tsp.
2ml.
1 tbsp.
olive oil
1% cups
1 cup
water
375 mi.
15ml.
300ml.
% liter
Mix the garlic, mint, ham and sausage. Add the lamb, wine,
salt and pepper. Mix gently. Cover and place in the refrigerator overnight.
Drain the lamb, reserving the marinade. Heat the olive
oil in a large skillet. Add the meat and lightly brown it over
mediu m-h igh heat. Add the rice, marinade and water. Bring
to a boil and remove from the heat.
Place the mixture in a greased, deep 2-quart [2-liter]
baking dish. Cover with foil. Place the dish in a large saucepan or stockpot, and add enough water to reach two thirds of
the way up the sides of the dish. Bring the water to a boil,
reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer until the rice and
meat are tender, about one and one half hours. Serve the
dish immediately.
THE PLEASURES OF COOKING
14 1
1 Y2 lb.
%kg.
4 tbsp.
60 mi.
2Y4 cups
boiling water
2 tbsp.
flour
15 to 20
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
Y3 cup
75 mi.
550 mi.
mixture for two or three minutes, add the boiling water and
salt, cover, and simmer gently for one hour, or until the lamb
is tender. Remove the cloves and bay leaves.
In another pan, melt the remaining butter, stir in the
flour, cook for one minute, and add Va cup [75 ml.] of the
cooking liquid from the lamb. When this sauce is smoothly
mixed, stir it into the lamb mixture. Add the lemon slices,
capers and wine, and simmer for about five minutes. Just
before serving, stir in the anchovies.
HENRIE'ITE DA VIOlS
ILLUSTRIERTES PRAKTISCH ES KOCHBUCH
30 mi.
15 to 20
Curried Goat
The volatile oils in hot chilies may make your skin sting;
handle them carefully and wash your hands afterward.
This is almost a national Jamaican dish, eaten by many
people at least once a week.
To serve 4
%kg.
6 tbsp.
butter
90ml.
whole cloves
bay leaves
%lb.
Y2 tsp.
ground mace
2 mi.
2 tbsp.
chopped basil
30 mi.
1 Y4 cups
boiling water
300 mi.
flour
2 tbsp.
Y2 cup
white wine
50 mi.
Y2
30 mi.
125 mi.
1 tsp.
salt
1 tsp.
1 tbsp.
curry powder
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
lard
30 mi.
onion, sliced
1% cups
potatoes, diced
4 cups
125 g.
salt
Y4 cup
Y2
1 Y2 lb.
%kg.
Sm l.
5 mi.
1
300 mi.
1 liter
Sift together the salt, pepper and curry powder, and rub the
mixture into the meat. Set aside for one hour.
Heat the lard in a saucepan, add the meat and onion, and
brown them lightly. Add the stock or water and the chilies,
cover, and simmer over low heat until the meat is tender.
The timing varies with the meat; mutton takes less time
(about one hour) than goat (about one and three quarters
hours). Add the potatoes and continue cooking for another 20
minutes, or until the potatoes are soft and the gravy thickens. Serve on a bed of rice.
MARY SLATER
CARIBBEAN COOKING FOR PLEASURE
Colombo Curry
Mutton Curry
Badshahi Gosht
The seeds from the long, narrow tamarind pods are obtainable in dried form where Indian or Latin American foods are
sold. The brown fleshy pulp that covers the seeds is acidic
and tart-flavored.
Curry was originally introduced to the West Indies by
immigrant laborers from Ceylon; thus this dish is named
after the capital of its country of origin. Curry powder is
available ready-made, but you may make it yourself in a
mortar or blender. Combine % teaspoon [2 ml.] each of coriander and cumin seeds, ground turmeric and whole black
peppercorns with a small piece of peeled and grated fresh
ginger and from one half to two fresh or dried chilies. Grind
everything well.
To serve 4
1 kg.
21b.
3 tbsp.
oil
1 cu p
water
Y4 liter
1 tbsp.
curry powder
15 mi.
45 mi.
1 Y2 lb.
%kg .
5 tbsp.
ghee
75 mi.
20
20
20
20
%cup
50 mi.
4 to 6
4 to 6
8 to 10
whole cloves
2 or3
2or3
5 tbsp.
75 mi.
%cup
175 mi.
heavy cream
125 mi.
8 to 10
Seasoning
8 to 10
2-inch
1Y2 tsp.
poppy seeds
2 tbsp.
2
2
To serve 4 to 6
8 to 10
5-cm.
3
7 mi.
30 mi.
Lightly brown the pieces of meat in the oil with the onions.
Add the water, curry powder and the tamarind pulp, if you
are using it. Mix well and season with salt and pepper. When
the mixture comes to a boil, put in the bouquet garni, vegetables, garlic and a pinch of cayenne pepper, if you wish. Cover
and simmer gently for one hour, or until the meat is tender.
Serve the curry hot.
CHRISTIANE ROY-CAMILLE AND ANNICK MARIE
LES MEILLEURES RECETTES DE LA CUISINE ANTILLAISE
14 3
Shepherdess's Lamb
Cordero a la Pastora
Calfs liver and brains-although milder in flavor-can be
substituted for the less available lamb liver and brains.
ham; cook for five minutes. Mix in the brandy, rosemary and
garlic; cover and cook over low heat for one hour, or until the
lamb is tender. Watch carefully and add a little boiling water, if necessary, to keep the meat from burning. There
should be very little gravy when the meat is finished.
ROMEO SALTA
THE PLEASURES OF ITAUAN COOKING
To serve 8
41b.
y4 lb.
2 oz.
lamb brains
1 cup
olive oil
onion, chopped
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
cayenne pepper
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
vinegar
30 mi.
2 kg.
125 g.
60 g.
Y4 liter
sprig thyme
Lamb Hunter-Style
Put the oil and onion in a pot. Add the lamb shoulder and the
liver, and stew for 10 minutes. Then add the bread crumbs,
cayenne pepper and vinegar. In a mortar or food processor,
grind together the garlic, thyme and brains, and add to the
lamb. Season with salt and pepper. Pour in enough boiling
water to cover the contents of the pot. Cover, and cook over
low heat for 40 minutes, until the lamb is tender. Allow the
stew to rest for one hour before reheating it to serve.
ANA MARIA CALERA
COCINA CASTELLANA
21b.
Y2 cup
Y2 cup
water
125 mi.
125 mi.
sprigs rosemary
Y2 cup
olive oil
31b.
3
lOml.
salt
Y2 tsp.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
%lb.
125 g.
Y2 cup
Y4 tsp.
brandy
2 mi.
125 mi.
1 mi.
Season the lamb with the salt and pepper. Melt the butter in
a deep skillet or casserole; brown the lamb in it. Add the
144
125 mi.
1 Y2 kg.
2 tsp.
rosemary
sprig sage
1 kg.
Pour the water and vinegar into a glass. Add the garlic. Tie
the rosemary and sage together with thread and add them.
Let these ingredients soak for a few hours.
Brown the lamb and the kidneys in the oil and season
with salt. Add the contents of the glass, cover and cook over
medium heat for 45 minutes. Remove the garlic, rosemary
and sage, season with pepper and add the anchovies. When
the anchovies have been reduced to a pulp and the sauce has
thickened- in about 30 minutes- serve.
STELLA DONATI (EDITOR)
IL GRANDE MANUALE DELLA CUCINA REGIONALE
21b.
%cup
olive oil
1 kg.
50 mi.
water
3 liters
salt
onion to a pale gold in the same fat. Stir in the flour and let it
brown, then add the stock slowly, stirring all the time, to
make smooth gravy. Season the gravy with salt and pepper
and a pinch of sugar.
Spread the kidneys in a layer over the lamb pieces, then
add the mushrooms in a layer. Season well with pepper and
salt between each layer. Pour on the gravy. Arrange the
potato slices on top, overlapping them like fish scales. Brush
the top with the melted butter to keep the potatoes moist.
Cover the casserole and put it into a preheated 325 F.
[160 C.] oven for two hours. For the last 30 minutes, remove
the lid to brown the potatoes.
CAROLINE CONRAN
BRITISH COOKING
mixed spices
3 or4
mint leaves
3 or 4
2 tsp.
paprika
10 mi.
one 31b.
one 1 Y2 kg.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the pieces oflamb and
let them brown lightly. Add the onion and water, bring to a
boil and skim. Season with salt and a good pinch of mixed
spices, and add the mint, paprika and the chicken. Cover and
simmer for 30 minutes. Add the potatoes and continue to
cook until the meat and potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes more. Serve straight from the pot.
one 6 to
91b.
6 tbsp.
LEON ISNARD
LA GASTRONOMIE AFRICAINE
one 3 to
4 Y2 kg.
suet
% kg.
90 mi.
2 tbsp.
lard
onion, thickly sliced
1 kg.
30ml.
1
%cup
flour
50 mi.
3 cups
%liter
1 tbsp.
butter, melted
Caper sauce
To serve 4
21b.
eggs
125 g.
6
15 mi.
Melt the lard in a skillet and brown the lamb pieces on all
sides. Transfer the lamb pieces to a deep casserole, using a
slotted spoon to drain them of their fat. Now gently fry the
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
15ml.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Chop or grind the mutton very fine with the suet. Mix with
the herbs, salt and pepper, nutmeg and eggs. When the
mixture is smooth, fill the fell with the meat mixture, folding the fell over to enclose the stuffing completely. Tie the
parcel up in a cloth.
Bring a large pan of lightly salted water to a boil, put in
the mutton, and poach at a gentle simmer for about one and
one half hours. Transfer the mutton to a platter to drain.
To make the sauce, melt the butter, stir in the flour, and
slowly stir in 2 cups [Y2 liter] of the cooking liquid. Simmer
for 40 minutes to make a thick, smooth sauce. Stir in the
remaining ingredients.
Remove the stuffed mutton from its cloth and serve cut
into slices, accompanied by the hot sauce.
THE RECEIPT BOOK OF ANN BLENCOWE
145
Leftovers and
~ixed ~ethods
Broiled Morsels of
Poached lamb Breast
Epigrammes de Mouton (ou d'Agneau) ala Puree
de Pommes de Terre
This recipe produces not only an appetizing dish, but a very
good soup. The broth in which the lamb was cooked with its
seasoning vegetables may be garnished with rice, barley or
noodles. Serve the epigrams on a bed of pureed potatoes.
To serve 6 to 8
lamb breast, rolled and tied
2Y2 to
3 kg.
2 quarts
2 liters
2
2
carrots
onions
2
2
turnips
5 to
6 1b.
garlic clove
bouquet garni
salt and pepper
4 tbsp.
lard, softened
60 mi.
%cup
50 mi.
lamb breasts
two 1 Y2 to
2Y2 kg .
salt
onions
carrots
turnips
bouquet garni
garlic cloves
1 tbsp.
olive oil
%cup
4 tbsp.
15 mi.
175 mi.
60 mi.
Tartar sauce
egg yolks
about
olive oil
15 mi.
about
Y2 liter
2 cups
1 tbsp.
Dijon mustard
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
hours, until the meat pulls away from the bones easily.
Transfer the breasts to a dish and let them cool until
lukewarm. Pull the bones out of the meat one by one. Place
the meat between two cloths, put a weighted board on top
and let the meat cool completely. Trim away any fat and cut
the meat into lozenge shapes of equal size.
To make the sauce, season the egg yolks with a little salt
and pepper, and whisk for about one minute, or until the
yolks turn pale. Whisk in the vinegar or lemon juice. Whisking constantly, add the oil, drop by drop to begin with. When
the sauce starts to thicken, pour in the remaining oil in a
thin, steady stream, whisking rhythmically. When the mayonnaise has a soft but firm consistency, whisk in the mustard, capers, gherkins and parsley.
To finish the lamb, mix together the eggs and olive oil,
dip the lozenges in the mixture and, when well covered, roll
them in the bread crumbs. Place the lozenges side by side in
a flat baking dish and sprinkle with the clarified butter.
Place the dish in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for
12 minutes, or until hot, then put it under a broiler for three
minutes, or until golden. Serve accompanied with the sauce.
PAUL BOU ILLARD
LA CUISINE AU COIN DU FEU
1 cup
water
% liter
8 tbsp.
butter
120 mi.
carrot, diced
turnip, diced
about
2 cups
bouquet garni
Y2 lb.
%kg.
y4 lb.
125 g.
eggs
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
2 or 3
2or3
%lb.
125 g.
Y4
heavy cream
50 mi.
%liter
3 cups
about
liter
Y2
cup
2 to 3 kg.
4 to 6 lb.
melted butter
1 cup
% liter
Place the lamb breast in a pan with the water, half of the
butter, the vegetables and a little salt. Bring to a boil, cover
and cook over low heat or in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.]
oven until tender, about two hours. Let the breast cool in the
cooking liquid.
When the breast is cool enough to handle, remove all of
the bones and place the meat on a flat dish. Cover it with a
lightly weighted board and let it cool to room temperature.
Remove the vegetables from the liquid and keep them warm.
Cut the meat into square or triangular pieces. Melt the
remaining butter. Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper,
dip it first in the melted butter, then in the bread crumbs,
and broil it on both sides until it is golden brown. Serve
with the vegetables.
SOPHIE WILHELMINE SCHEIBLER
ALLGEMEINES DEUTSCHES KOCHBUCH FUR ALLE STAN DE
147
12 to 16
salt
4 tbsp.
lard
60 mi.
%cup
oil
50 mi.
125 g .
HELEN MC CULLY
WASTE NOT WANT NOT
1 tsp.
sugar
%lb.
3
5 mi.
Sprinkle the chops with salt and fry them over high heat in
the lard and oil. When browned on both sides, transfer the
chops to an earthenware dish.
In the same fat, fry the ham and onion for about five
minutes, or until they begin to brown. Add the tomatoes and
let them cook until the mixture is thick, about 10 minutes.
Season with salt and sugar. Cover the chops with the tomato
mixture and place in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for
about 30 minutes, or until the lamb is very tender. Cover
with the slices of chorizo, increase the oven temperature to
450 F . [230 C.] and return the dish to the oven for about five
minutes, or until the chorizo slices render some of their fat.
Bring to the table and serve from the cooking dish.
MARIA DOLORES COMAS
LO MEJOR DE LA COCINA ESPANOLA
Fillets of MuHon
"Pickle" in this recipe is a 19th Century term for a marinade.
The technique of larding is demonstrated on pages 58-59.
Dish up the fillets of mutton in a circle with any puree of
vegetables or a white mushroom sauce in the center.
To serve 4
3 to 4 lb.
3 oz.
8 tbsp.
butter
water
2% cups
vinegar
whole cloves
peppercorns
onion, sliced
liter
2 mi.
% tsp.
ground allspice
2 cups
Y2
2 tbsp.
cornstarch
30 mi.
3 or4
2
liter
3 o r4
125 mi.
3
1% liters
625 mi.
butter
currant jelly
120 mi.
5 cups
carrot, sliced
%cup
90 g.
Pickle
To serve 4 to 6
Y2
1 Y2 to 2 kg.
10
sprigs parsley
sprigs thyme
10
Lard the fillets with the salt-pork lardons. Put all of the
ingredients for the pickle into a bowl, lay the fillets in the
pickle, cover them, and leave them for four hours.
Drain the fillets and lay them in a bright tin dish, with 1
tablespoon [15 ml.] ofbutter under each and% cup [150 ml.]
of the strained pickle poured over them. Put them in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven to bake for 15 minutes.
Put the fillets under a hot broiler for a minute or
two, and serve.
COLONEL KENNEY-HERBERT
DAINTY DISHES FOR INDIAN TABLES
12 oz.
3SO g.
butter
30 mi.
1 cup
% liter
SO mi.
cooked rice
%liter
d ry bread crumbs
SO mi.
Saute the onion and garlic in the butter. Combine them with
the lamb, gravy or meat stock, and the parsley. Season to
taste with salt and pepper.
Make a bed of rice in the bottom of a buttered 1 Vz-quart
[1 %-liter] casserole or baking dish , then make alternate layers of the lamb mixture and rice, ending with a layer of rice.
Top with bread crumbs; cover with a piece of well-buttered
parchment paper. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven
for 35 to 40 minutes, or until heated through. Remove the
paper cover for the last 10 minutes to color the top.
JAMES A. BEARD
JAMES BEARD'S AMERICAN COOKERY
pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir in the water. Add this
mixture to the lamb cubes. Stir in the oil and butter, and
saute gently for about 10 minutes.
Add 2 cups [% liter] of water and the chick-peas. Form
the ground lamb into a large ball, add it to the pot and bring
to a boil. Cover, simmer for one and a half hours, then remove the lid and simmer for 30 minutes to reduce the sauce.
Remove the ball of meat and crumble it into a bowl. Beat
the eggs with the parsley, mix them into the crumbled meat
and season with salt, pepper and the remaining cinnamon.
Transfer the lamb cubes and chick-peas to a greased
shallow baking dish. Pour in half of the cooking liquid.
Spread the egg-and-meat mixture over the top. Bake in a
preheated 400 F . [200 C.] oven for 30 minutes, or until the
top is golden brown. Heat the remaining cooking liquid and
pour it over the finished dish before serving.
FATIMAZOHRA BOUAYED
LA CUISINE ALGERIENNE
1 Y2 lb.
%kg.
S tbsp.
lard
7S mi.
YJ cup
water
7S mi.
salt
To serve 6
1 lb.
Y2 kg .
10 oz.
300 g.
1 tsp.
ground cinnamon
3
S mi.
water
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
oil
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
butter
lS mi.
Y4 cup
SO mi.
eggs
3 or4
4
3 or4
1 cup
Y4 liter
3 cups
boiling water
%liter
In a fireproof oven dish, melt the lard, then add the meat and
brown the cubes on all sides. Add the onion and brown it too.
Add the tomatoes and fry until most of their liquid has evaporated. Add the water, season with salt, cover tightly and
bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until the meat is tender
and all of the liquid has evaporated, about 45 minutes. Stir
in the rice, pour in the boiling water, cover again and return
the mixture to a boil.
Remove the lid and place the dish in a preheated 350 F .
[180 C.] oven. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the rice is
tender and has absorbed all of the liquid. Serve sprinkled
with freshly ground pepper and chopped parsley.
SONYA CHORTANOVA
NASHA KUCHNIY A
149
To serve 4
2 to 31b.
1 tbsp.
lard
small onions
~cup
To serve 6
1 to 1% kg.
1S mi.
12
3
1SO mi.
12
Y4
cu p
flour
eggs, beaten
SO mi.
1 tsp.
ground cinnamo n
S mi.
1 quart
milk
1 liter
Y4
Y4
tsp.
thyme
1 mi.
Y2 tsp.
ground ginger
2 mi.
tsp.
oregano
1 mi.
2Y2 cups
ale
bay leaf
1 Y2 cups
white wine
%cup
SO mi.
%cup
SO mi.
37S mi.
3 tbsp.
4S mi.
4 oz.
12S g.
1 tbsp.
pureed tomato
1Sml.
Put salt and pepper over the chops, butter a baking dish and
lay in the chops. Beat your flour and eggs into a little milk
first, then put in the rest of the milk. Put in the ginger a nd
ale. Pour this mixture over the chops and send the dish to a
preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven. After 30 minutes, lower the
heat to 325 F. [160 C.]. An hour a nd a half will bake it.
SHEILA HUTCHINS
ENGLISH RECIPES AND OTHERS FROM SCOTLAND, WALES AND IRELAND
salt
about
2 cups
62S mi.
To serve 4
about
Y2 liter
Grill the ribs over charcoal or under a hot broiler for about
two minutes on each side, or until the fat begins to melt. Put
the ribs into a heavy casserole with the lard, onions, mushrooms, cinnamon, thyme, oregano and bay leaf. Cover and
cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Stir in the wine, hazelnuts, almonds, garlic, parsley, chocolate, tomato, salt a nd
enough water or stock to cover the meat.
Cover the casserole with foil or a lid. Cook slowly for
about one a nd one halfhours, or until the meat is very tender
and the liquid is reduced to a thick sauce.
Y2 lb.
Y3 cup
chopped onion
7S mi.
4 tbsp.
butter or lard
60 mi.
12
boiling water
%cup
fl our
SO mi.
1 tbsp.
lS mi.
2 tsp.
10ml.
1 tbsp.
1S mi.
and put the cut-off tops back on them. Place in one lay~r in a
shallow pan and pour enough boiling water into the d1sh to
come halfway up the sides of the kohlrabi.
Cover and cook over low heat or bake in a preheated
350 F. [180 C.] oven for 30 to 40 minutes. When they are
tender, transfer the kohlrabi to an ovenproof platter. Add a
little more boiling water to the reduced liquid in the pan. To
make the sauce, brown the flour in the remaining butter or
lard add the liquid from the pan and bring to a boil. Cook
untii the sauce is smooth and thickened, and flavor it to taste
with salt, vinegar or lemon juice and sugar, carame.lized.if
desired. Pour the sauce over the kohlrabi, reheat bnefly m
the oven and serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Vegetable Moussaka
If leftover lamb is used for this dish, the initial cooking time
should be reduced from 30 minutes to 10 minutes. You may, if
you wish, increase the quantity of zucchini and omit the eggplant and potatoes.
To serve 8
2 1b.
1 cup
olive oil
1 kg.
Y4 liter
4
HELENA HAWLICZKOWA
KUCHNIA POLSKA
butter
2 tsp.
salt
60 mi.
3
10ml.
pepper
Y3 cup
eggs, 1 beaten
%cup
1 Y2 cups
3Y2 lb.
1 Y2 kg.
%cup
pureed tomato
150 mi.
1 cup
%cup
1 tsp.
basil
5 mi.
2 tsp.
salt
10ml.
pepper
Y2 cup
12
Y4 cup
olive oil
125 mi.
12
50 mi.
75 mi.
3
50 mi.
375 mi.
% liter
150 mi.
PAULA PECK
PAULA PECK'S ART OF GOOD COOKING
151
1 lb.
125 g.
Y2 tsp.
%cup
125 mi.
Lamb-stuffed Eggplant
2ml.
To serve 2
50 mi.
egg
1 cup
152
Y4 liter
watercress
Sprinkle the eggplant slices with the salt and pepper. Heat
about Vz inch [1 em.] of olive oil in a skillet and fry the slices,
in two or three batches, until golden on both sides. Drain
them on paper towels.
Sprinkle the lamb with salt and cook in 2 tablespoons [30
ml.] of olive oil over medium to high heat, stirring regularly,
for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the onion and mushrooms in 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of olive oil until all of the
liquid exuded by the mushrooms has evaporated. Add this
mixture to the lamb, and continue cooking and stirring for a
couple of minutes. Add the garlic, pureed tomato and herbs,
turn the heat up as high as possible, and stir constantly until
everything is well blended. Stir in the bread crumbs and let
the meat mixture cool slightly while preparing the mold.
Using a 1 '12-quart [1 '12-liter] charlotte mold that is about
3 inches [7% em.] deep, line the bottom with eggplant slices
laid next to one another. Then line the sides with slices positioned vertically and slightly overlapping; press them gently against the sides to be certain that they are firmly in
place. Sprinkle the meat mixture with pepper, mix the egg
into it and add it to the mold, a spoonful at a time, being
careful not to displace any portions of the lining. Tap the
bottom of the mold firmly several times against a wooden
Y2 cup
chopped onion
125 mi.
50 mi.
% cup
olive oil
50 mi.
1 or 2
1 or 2
/4 tsp.
Y2 tsp.
Y2 cup
salt
4 mi.
2 mi.
2 tbsp.
125 mi.
30 mi.
Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise, trim off the stem end,
and scoop out the pulp, leaving a shell '12 inch [1 em.] thick.
Cover with boiling water for two minutes; drain, pat dry.
Brush all over, inside and out, with olive oil. In a skillet cook
the onion, parsley, tomatoes and garlic in olive oil until the
onion is soft. Add the lamb, Vz teaspoon [2 ml.] of the salt,
and the mint. Add some of the eggplant pulp, but none of the
seedy part. Simmer for 10 minutes. Fill the two eggplant
shells with this mixture. Top with the bread crumbs, sprinkle with the remaining salt and dot with the butter.
Bake the two eggplant h alves in your roasting pan,
which should first be well brushed with oil, in a preheated
350 F. [180 C.] oven for one hour, or until the eggplant skin
is lightly wrinkled and softened, and the crumbs are golden.
BETTY WASON
BRIDE IN THE KITCHEN
with salt and pepper, and add the paprika, wine and water.
Bring to a boil, add the meat, cover, and simmer over very
low heat until the meat is tender and the sauce considerably
reduced, about45 minutes. Stirin the parsley and costmary.
Fill the eggplant shells with the meat and pour the sauce
over the top. Bake in a preh eated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for
about 30 minutes. Pour the eggs over the meat. Return to the
oven and bake until the dish is golden brown on top.
GEORGI SHISHKOV AND STOlL VUCHKOV
BULGARSKI NATZIONALNI YASTIYA
21b.
7 tbsp.
butter
18
3
15ml.
Leftover roast lamb may be used for this dish, in which case
the initial cooking of the meat is not necessary.
To serve 4
%to
1 lb.
105 mi.
18
7
paprika
%cup
w hite wine
50 mi.
1 cup
water
% liter
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
Y2 tbsp.
3
1 kg .
salt
1 tbsp.
5 mi.
7ml.
Scoop out most of the flesh from the eggplant h alves, leaving
shells % inch [2 em.] thick. Chop the flesh, sprinkle the flesh
and the shells liberally with salt, and put them in a bowl or
on a kitchen towel to drain for at least two hours. Rinse
thoroughly and drain again.
Combine the flour with a little salt and roll the meat
cubes in the mixture. Heat the butter, and fry the meat in it
until it is sea red on all sides. Transfer the meat to a plate.
Using the same butter, fry the eggplant halves lightly on
the outside to soften their skins. Place them in a wellgreased rectangular baking dish th at is just large enough to
hold them snugly.
Transfer the butter from the frying pan to a large heavy
saucepan. Heat th e butter, slide in the scallions and let them
brown. Add the tomatoes and the chopped eggpla nt, and
cook over high heat until the mixture is fairly dry. Season
350to
500 g.
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
%cup
flour
50 mi.
1 tbsp.
15ml.
153
To Make a Delma
Zucchini or Cucumbers
Stuffed with Lamb
10 oz.
2 lb.
300 g.
1 kg.
1Y2 tbsp.
22 mi.
Y3 cup
chopped onion
75 mi.
To serve 8
1 lb.
1 cup
Y4 liter
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
water
125 mi.
Y2 cup
heavy cream
125 mi.
1 tbsp.
flour
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
With a spoon, scoop out the seeds and flesh from the zucchini
or cucumbers to form shells about 14 inch [6 mm.] thick.
To make the stuffing, heat the butter or oil in a skillet
and cook the onion for about five minutes, or until golden.
Mix the onion with the meat and bread, and put the mixture
through the fine disk of a food grinder. Add the egg, season
with salt and pepper, and knead thoroughly until smooth .
Fill the zucchini or cucumber shells with the stuffing.
Place the shells in one layer in a shallow baking dish a nd
pour the water around them. Cover and bake in a preheated
350 F. [180 C.] oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the
vegetable shells are tender. Add% teaspoon [2 ml.] of salt to
the cream, mix in the flour a nd pour the mixture over the
shells. Return them to the oven uncovered for 10 minutes.
Carefully transfer the stuffed vegetable shells to a serving dish. Pour the cooking juices over them and sprinkle
with the dill a nd parsley. Serve with potatoes.
HELENA HAWLICZKOWA
KUCHNJA P OLSKA
eggs
about 30
2 cups
Y2 kg .
1 lb.
about 30
Y2 liter
egg yolk
Mix the meat, suet and rice. Add the herbs, salt, pepper,
nutmeg and eggs. Put a little of this mixture onto each leaf
and roll it up, folding in the edges. Tie the rolls with coarse
thread. Put them into a pot with the stock, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes. Lift them out and remove the threads.
Stir a spoonful of the stock into the egg yolk, then slowly
pour the yolk mixture into the pot, stirring constantly. Heat
the stock gently, without boiling, until it is slightly thickened. Pour this sau ce over the r olls and serve.
THE RECEIPT BOOK OF ANN BLENCOWE
1 cup
water
1 kg.
Y4 liter
sa lt and peppe r
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
flour
4 cups
Y2 lb.
y4
1 cup
% liter
1 liter
2
kg.
lamb pieces and season them with salt and pepper. Mix the
flour with a little of the cooking liquid, then stir the mixture
back into the pan and simmer for a minute or two until the
stock is slightly thickened.
Place some of the lamb in a deep pie dish, then add a good
layer of the chopped parsley and onion, then lamb, until the
dish is full. See that the last layer is of the parsley and onion.
Fill with the thickened stock. Roll out the dough 1.4 inch [6
mm.) thick, cover the pie with it, slash the dough cover in
several places to let steam escape, and bake in a preheated
375 F. [190 C.) oven for 45 minutes, or until the meat and
pastry are nicely cooked.
Just before serving, remove the pastry cover by loosening
its edges and sliding it off onto a plate. Spread the top of the
pie liberally with the cream. Replace the pastry to serve.
Shepherd's Pie
Monckton Milnes Mutton Pie
To serve 10
21b.
l kg.
This recipe moistens the lamb by combining it with a milkenriched veloute sauce. For a lighter filling, the lamb may be
moistened with plain meat stock -about 2 cups [ lh liter) will
serve -as demonstrated on pages 74-75. With either moistener, the pie can be given a more complex flavor with the
addition of vegetables: chopped and lightly sauteed onions;
diced and parboiled carrots, turnips or parsnips; freshly
shelled and parboiled peas.
To serve 4
5 to
l % to
l % liters
90 mi.
3 tbsp.
flou r
45 mi.
6 cups
4 tbsp.
60 mi.
6 tbsp.
48
48
Y4 cup
fl our
50 mi.
l c up
l Y4 cups
milk
Y4 liter
300 mi.
Y2 lb.
4 cups
flour
l liter
l tsp.
salt
5 mi.
about
l cup
cold water
about
Y4 liter
For the dough, combine the suet, flour and salt. Stir in
enough cold water to give a stiff, elastic consistency.
Roll out the dough and use about two thirds of it to line a
large pudding basin. Place the loin slices in layers in the
basin, leaving a hollow in the center and sprinkling each
layer with pepper and salt. Sprinkle on 2 tablespoons [30
ml.) of the flour and dot the top layer with the small pieces of
butter. Fill the hollow with the oysters. Sprinkle the oysters
with pepper and salt, a nd cover them with the tenderloin
slices. Moisten the ingredients with a little stock or water.
155
Y2
31b.
kg.
24 tbsp.
360 mi.
Y2 cups
diced potatoes
Y2 liter
375 mi.
l cup
% liter
Y2
125 mi.
l tsp.
ground cinnamon
5 mi.
Y2
2 mi.
cup
tsp.
Y2 cup
Y2 cup
125 mi.
o live oil
125 mi.
lib.
l cup
Y2 kg.
Y4 liter
Bidding Pie
Pastai N eithior
When bidding weddings were held on the Gower peninsula,
this pie was specially prepared for the wedding feast held at
156
the bride's home. The pie was served cold with beer. A bidder
was appointed by the bride's family to invite the guests and,
during the feast, to record the sum of money paid by each
guest for a small piece of pie. The young couple were partly
dependent on this gift money to set up their home.
To serve 4
Y2
lb.
y4 kg.
3/ 4
3 cups
flour
l tsp.
salt
5 mi.
l 0 tbsp.
lard
150 mi.
2 tbsp.
water
l tsp.
mixed herbs
about
l cup
liter
30 mi.
l
5 mi.
about
Y4 liter
Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. In a small pan, melt
the lard slowly in the water, bring to a boil and immediately
pour the lard mixture into the flour. Work the lard into the
flour and knead well to form a soft dough. Turn out the
dough onto a floured board and roll it out until it is fairly
thin. Grease a 7-inch [21-cm.] pie dish and line it with two
thirds of the dough.
Fill the pie shell with the mutton and onion, add the
herbs and enough stock to thoroughly moisten the ingredients. Cover with the rest of the dough, pressing the edges of
both layers together to seal them. Cut a slit in the center and
bake in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for about one hour,
or until the pastry is golden.
S. MINWEL TIBBOTT
WELSH FARE
l lb.
3,4
cup
Y2 kg.
175 mi.
60 mi.
1 lb.
Y2 kg.
sugar
15 mi.
Y3 cup
75 mi.
Y2 lb.
30ml.
Suliman's Pilaf
In a deep baking dish, arrange the meat and apples in alternate layers. Season each layer well with salt and pepper, a
little sugar, a few currants and a pinch of nutmeg. Complete
the layers, top with the pieces ofbutter and cover with a lid of
rolled dough. Make a hole in the center of the lid. Bake in a
preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven until the pastry is browned,
about 40 minutes, and serve hot.
Y2 lb.
Y2 cup
o il
2 cups
Y2 liter
8 cups
boiling water
2 liters
Y3 cup
chopped onion
75 mi.
% cup
50 mi.
%cup
SO mi.
2 tbsp.
JOAN POULSON
OLD THAMES VALLEY RECIPES
To serve 6
1 Y2 lb.
%kg.
salt
%kg.
125 mi.
30 mi.
3 or4
3 or4
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
1 tbsp.
flour
15 mi.
Y2 cup
white wine
125 mi.
Y2 cup
125 mi.
Into a heavy pan put half of the oil and when it is warm, put
in the rice and stir for a few minutes until the rice takes on a
transparent look. Then pour in the boiling water and cook
very fast for about 12 minutes. The time of cooking varies
according to the rice, but it should be rather underdone than
overdone. Drain the rice. In the meantime, heat the remaining oil and fry the onion until it is soft. Add the meat, raisins,
currants, garlic, tomatoes, and pine nuts or almonds. Season
well. Put the drained rice into a heavy pan and stir in the
meat-and-onion mixture. Toss together for a few minutes
over low heat before serving. Serve a bowl of sour cream or
yogurt with the pilaf.
ELIZABETH DAVID
A BOOK OF MEDITERRANEAN FOOD
157
Hashed Lamb
To serve 6
Y2 lb.
onions, chopped
2 tbsp.
butter
To serve 4
y4 kg.
2
30 mi.
2
2 cups
Y2 lite r
1 tbsp.
salt
3 tbsp.
butte r
4S mi.
1 tsp.
pepper
S mi.
1 tbsp.
1S ml.
Y2 tsp.
grated nutmeg
2 mi.
2
3
1 cup
eggs
SO mi.
% cup
3 tbsp.
30 mi.
SO mi.
4S mi.
To serve 4
1 lb.
158
OSCAR TSCHIRKY
THE COOK BOOK BY "OSCAR" OF THE WALDORF
soy sauce
BERT GREENE
BERT GREENE'S KITCHEN BOUQUETS
Y4 liter
1S mi.
1S mi.
water
300 mi.
Y2 cup
chopped carrot
2 oz.
1 tbsp.
curra nt jelly
1S mi.
%cup
port
50 mi.
60 g.
1 Y2 lb.
%kg.
1 cup
%liter
To serve 6
2 cups
Y2 cup
Y2
liter
V3 cup
Y2 cup
2 or 3
sprigs parsley
2or 3
1 tbsp.
butter
15 mi.
2 tbsp.
flou r
30 mi.
2 cups
milk
Y2 liter
50 mi.
melted butter
45 mi.
Put the lamb, ham, onion, green pepper and parsley through
the coarse disk of a food grinder. Set the mixture aside.
In a heavy saucepan, melt the butter over low heat until
it is bubbly. Using a wooden spoon, stir in the flour and cook,
stirring constantly, until the mixture is light gold in color.
Still stirring, slowly incorporate the milk. Stir until the mixture forms a thick smooth sauce. Season to taste with salt,
pepper and Tabasco. Remove the sauce from the heat, add
the ground meat mixture, and blend well. Pour into a wellgreased, deep ovenproof casserole, sprinkle bread crumbs on
top, and pour melted butter over the surface. Bake in a preheated 375 F . [190 C.) oven for 30 minutes.
BOB J EFFRIES
SOUL FOOD COOKBOOK
75 mi.
125 mi.
3 tbsp.
olive oil
2 tbsp .
pine nuts
125 mi.
125 mi.
30 mi.
Put the bulgur in a bowl and wash it in cold water. Skim off
the film that rises to the top. Let the bulgur soak in 3 cups
[% liter] of water for at least one hour.
In a large skillet, saute the onion in 2 tablespoons [30
ml.] of the oil over medium-low heat. Add a dash of pepper
and turmeric and stir occasionally until the onion is golden.
Add 1 pound ['n kg.] of the meat to the onion and, stirring
occasionally, cook over medium heat until all of the liquid is
gone and the meat is cooked through. Add the pine nuts,
currants, ifusing, and salt to taste; mix. Remove the mixture
from the heat and let it stand.
Drain the soaked bulgur. Lift out a handful at a time,
squeeze it dry and put it in a tray or a large bowl. Add the
remaining meat, season with salt and pepper, and knead
well-adding cold water or the melted butter, if necessary- to make a soft paste.
Grease an 11-by-7-inch [28-by-18-cm.] ovenproof pan
generously with oil. Divide the paste in half. Put one half in
the pan and, with a wet palm, flatten until the paste is about
~ inch [8 mm.] thick. Spread the cooked-meat mixture evenly on top. Spoon the remaining bulgur paste over the top and
smooth it into an even layer. With a knife, cut a cross connecting the opposite corners of the pan, then make 2-inch
[5-cm.] parallel cuts in both directions to form diamondshaped portions. Place a piece of butter on each portion.
Bake on the bottom shelf of a preheated 400 F. [200 C.)
oven for 40 minutes, then on the top shelf for 15 to 20 minutes, basting if necessary with a mixture of the remaining oil
and 2 tablespoons of water to keep the meat moist. The top
should be crisp. Serve hot with a salad.
DAISY INY
THE BEST OF BAGHDAD COOKING
159
1 kg.
To serve 4
Y2 kg.
1 lb.
%cup
ghee
Y3 cup
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
125 mi.
75 mi.
21b.
2 tbsp.
oil
2
2
4 tbsp.
butter
60ml.
% tsp.
cayenne pepper
2 mi.
1% tbsp.
curry powder
22 mi.
1 Y2 tsp.
salt
7 mi.
%cup
chopped almonds
50 mi.
%cup
seedless raisins
50 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
% tsp.
garam masala
30 mi.
eggs
Y4 liter
2
chutney
Preheat the oven to 350 F . [180 C.]. Heat the oil in a large
skillet and fry the lamb in it for about 10 minutes, stirring
often. If the meat exudes a lot of liquid, drain most of it off
before putting the meat into a mixing bowl.
After removing the meat, put the butter in the skillet and
add the apples, onions, curry, almonds, raisins, lemon juice,
salt and pepper. Mix these seasonings well, cover, and cook
for about five minutes. Add the meat, cover, and cook for
another five minutes.
While the meat is cooking, soak the bread in the milk,
then squeeze the bread dry but reserve the milk. Break one
egg into the softened bread and beat with a fork until light
and frothy. Remove the meat from the stove and beat in the
bread-egg combination.
Butter a 10-cup [2Yz-liter] baking dish and spoon in the
meat mixture. Beat the other egg with the reserved milk,
add salt and pepper, and spoon this custard mixture over the
meat. Bake for 30 minutes, until the custard on top is set.
At the table cut the baked lamb curry into pie-shaped
wedges and serve with chutney.
CAROL CUTLER
THE SIX-MINUTE SOUFFLE AND OTHER CULINARY DELIGHTS
1
1 mi.
Pistachio filling
32
32
pistachios
Y4 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
salt
1 mi.
cayenne pepper
1 mi.
% tsp.
white pepper
1 mi.
16
16
32
almonds, blanched
32
Cream gravy
1 cup
Y4 liter
%cup
ghee
50 mi.
% tsp.
cayenne pepper
1 mi.
1 tbsp.
ground coriander
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
g round ginger
15 mi.
1 tsp.
salt
1% cups
% tsp.
garam masala
1 tbsp.
5 mi.
1
375 mi.
2 mi.
15 ml.
For the meatballs, heat ~cup [50 ml.] oftheghee and fry the
onion and garlic until golden brown. Add the lamb, ginger,
chilies, cayenne and salt. Cover the pan. Cook over low heat
until the juices are reabsorbed by the lamb, about 15 minutes. Stir and remove from the heat. Cool.
In the meantime, prepare the gravy. Heat the ghee, and
fry the onions and garlic until golden brown. Add the cayenne, coriander, ginger and salt; stir for five minutes. Add
the tomato slices, mix thoroughly, and add the water or
stock. Simmer over low heat for about 15 minutes, or until
reduced by a third. For the filling, mix the chopped eggs with
the salt, cayenne and white pepper.
Grind the cooled meat mixture, and blend in the beaten
egg and egg yolk, and the garam masala. Divide the meat
mixture into 16 equal portions. Flatten each portion, and put
in its center 1 .!tablespoons [22 ml.] of the chopped-egg mixture, two pistachios, one raisin and two almonds. Dipping
your hands in cold water, shape each portion of meat into a
ball enclosing the filling.
Heat the remaining ghee and fry the meatballs until
golden. Add the fried meatballs to the gravy. Simmer for 15
minutes, or until they are soft and swollen and the gravy is
reduced to half of its original volume. Beat the sour cream, or
farmer or pot cheese and light cream, add it to the gravy, and
sprinkle with lf.l teaspoon [1 ml.] ofthegaram masala. Place
the pan in a preheated 250 F. [120 C.] oven for about 15
minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the mixture there until
serving time, up to 15 minutes.
Sprinkle the coriander leaves and the remaining lf.l teaspoon of garam masala over the dish and serve.
MRS. BALBIR SINGH
MRS. BALBIR SINGH'S INDIAN COOKERY
Lamb Sausage
Salame d'Angnello
To serve 4
14 oz.
400 g.
Y2 cup
125 mi.
egg
2 tbsp.
30ml.
Lamb Apples
4 tbsp.
butter
60 mi.
l tbsp.
olive oil
lSml.
Pommeaulx
white wine
To serve 8
2 cups
l lb.
Y2 kg .
l ib.
Y2 kg .
ground ginger
5 mi.
Y2 tsp.
ground cloves
2 mi.
egg whites
%lb.
125 g.
Y4 cup
flour
50 mi.
4 tbsp.
butter
60 mi.
50 mi.
125 mi.
Y2 liter
In a bowl, mix the lamb, potato, spinach or chard, egg, Parmesan, and salt and pepper. Add bread crumbs, if necessary,
to make a firm mixture. When thoroughly combined, form
the lamb mixture into a ball and pound vigorously several
times against the bottom of the bowl. Form a cylindrical
sausage and coat it with the mixed flour and bread crumbs.
Heat the butter and oil, and brown the sausage on all
sides. Add the white wine and cook until the wine evaporates. Add the stock, cover and simmer gently for one hour,
turning the sausage occasionally.
Remove the sausage from the pan and keep it warm.
Skim off the fat from the cooking liquid and reduce the liquid
over high heat to the desired consistency. Correct the seasoning. Slice the sausage and serve it with the reduced liquid
poured over it.
LISA BIONDI (EDITOR)
350 RICETIE DI CUCINA LEGGERA
161
Stuffed Meatballs
Harput Kufte
Kafta Snoober
To serve 4
To serve 4 to 6
lib.
5 cups
%cup
Y3 cup
2
chopped onion
1 Y2 cups
1 lb.
Y2 kg.
1% liters
4 tbsp.
pine nuts
60 mi.
125 mi.
1 tbsp.
butter
15 mi.
75 mi.
%cup
50 mi.
1 tsp.
dried mint
%kg.
2
375 mi.
butter (optional)
Onion and pine nut stuffing
8 tbsp.
butter
2 tbsp.
pine nuts
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Y4 tsp.
ground allspice
1 mi.
ground cinnamon
1 mi.
2 tbsp.
GEORGE MARDIKIAN
DINNER AT OMAR KHA YYAM'S
162
pureed tomato
375 mi.
Brown the pine nuts in the butter; let the pine nuts cool
slightly. Mix together the lamb, parsley, onion, mint, salt
and pepper. Shape into four cylindrical rolls, filling each
with 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the pine nuts. Place in an oiled
baking pan and pour the pureed tomato over the rolls. Bake
for 30 minutes in a preheated 350 F . [180 C.] oven.
HELEN COREY
THE ART OF SYRIAN COOKERY
30 mi.
Bring the stock to a boil and add the chopped parsley, onion
and tomatoes. Simmer for one hour.
Mea nwhile, prepare the stuffing. Fry the sliced onion in
the butter to the stage just before it turns pink. Add the
remaining ingredients and cook for five minutes. Put the
mixture in a dish , cover and refrigerate. When chilled, form
the mixture into balls the size of large marbles.
For the meatballs, mix the lamb and bulgur with salt and
pepper. Knead for 15 minutes, until blended into a gummy
mixture. Shape into balls the size of walnuts. With your
thumb, make a hollow in each ball to hold the stuffing, and
press the side walls thin. Slip in a ball of stuffing and press
the top of the hollow closed, smoothing and sealing it by
rolling the meatball between your palms.
Drop the meatballs into the simmering stock. When they
are cooked, they will rise to the surface. This will take abou t
20 minutes. Do not cook too many in the pot at one time, as
they require room to rise. They may be served with the soup
stock in deep bowls.
If they are to be served dry, remove the meatballs from
the stock . Try not to break the surfaces of the balls, or you
will lose some of the spicy juices that have been sealed inside. Melt the butter in a baking dish, roll the meatballs in
the butter and place in a 375 F. [190 C.] oven until they
have a crisp crust, about 10 minutes.
5ml.
30 mi.
lib.
Y2 cup
1 tbsp.
125 mi.
15 mi.
4 tbsp.
4 or 5
1 to
2 cups
60 mi.
eggs, beaten
4 or 5
plain yogurt
%to
Y2 liter
but still pink inside. Remove them from the pan a nd arrange
them in a sin gle layer in a baking dish.
Whisk the eggs and yogurt together, season with salt and
pepper, and stir in a spoonful offat from the pa n. Pour this
mixture over the lamb burgers. Blend a nother spoonful of
the fat with 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of paprika and sprinkle this on
top of the dish. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for
one hour, or until the top is light ly browned. Serve at once.
SPASENIJA-PATA MARKOVIC (EDITOR)
VELIKI NARODNI KUVAR
Mutton Croquettes
To serve 4
lib.
Y2
Y2
lb.
%kg.
12 tbsp.
180 mi.
kg.
2 cups
wa ter
1 Y4 cups
whole cloves
l-inch
stick cinnamon
1 tsp.
ground cumin
5 mi.
1 tsp.
cayenne pepper
5 mi.
garlic clove
peppercorns
1 tsp.
% cup
1 tbsp.
olive oil
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
water
15 mi.
150 mi.
5ml.
6
2Y2-cm.
2
175 mi.
garam masala
10 mi.
2-inch
5-cm.
2 tsp.
ground coriander
l Oml.
1 cup
% liter
15
eggs (optional )
MYRA (EDITOR)
MYRA'S COOKERY BOOK
300 mi.
2 tsp.
Parsley garnish
sprigs parsley
Y2 liter
salt
2i:J cup
15
1 kg.
3 tbsp.
45 mi.
1 cup
ghee or o il
Y4 kg.
163
STANDARD PREPARATIONS
Standard ~reparations
Meat Stock
This general-purpose strong stock will keep for up to a week
if refrigerated and brought to a boil every two days. Alternatively, it may be packed in freezer containers, tightly covered and stored in the freezer for up to six months.
To make about 3 quarts [3 liters] stock
21b.
21b.
2 1b.
about
5 quarts
1 kg .
1 kg .
1 kg .
butter
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
2 Y2 cups
milk
625 mi.
salt
about
5 liters
white pepper
carrots
Veloute Sauce
To makeabout 1 % cups [375m/. ]sauce
2 tbsp.
butter
30 mi.
2 tbsp.
flour
30 mi.
2 cups
Y2 liter
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over low heat and stir in
the flour until this roux mixture is smooth. Cook, stirring
constantly for two to three minutes. When the roux stops
Tomato Sauce
When fresh ripe tomatoes are not available, use drained,
canned Italian-style tomatoes or home-canned tomatoes.
To make about I Y4 cups [300 mi. ]sauce
bay leaf
large sprig dried thyme
coarse salt
Mint Sauce
To make about V3 cup [75 mi.] sauce
3 oz.
1 tbsp.
hot water
about
Y2 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
90 g.
onion, sliced
2 tbsp.
2
30 mi.
sugar (optional)
15 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
sugar
about
7 mi.
1 tbsp.
15 mi.
vinegar
45 mi.
Combine the mint leaves and hot water, and add sugar to
taste. Let the mixture steep for at least 30 minutes. Stir in
the vinegar and serve.
Harissa Sauce
The volatile oils in chilies may irritate your skin. Wear rubber gloves when handling them.
To make about Y4 cup [50 mi. ] sauce
% cup
50 mi.
coarse salt
5 ml.
Y2 tsp.
caraway seeds
2ml.
ground cum in
1 mi.
5 to 10 mi.
o live oil
STANDARD PREPARATIO NS
Preserved Lemons
1b.
1/ 4
l tsp.
coarse salt
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
l cup
ricotta cheese
1/4
2 or 3
eggs
2 or 3
1112 cups
5 mi.
liter
375 mi.
pepper
90 mi.
6 tbsp.
butter, softened
l tsp.
Sml.
1/2
2 mi.
Pork Stuffing
lemons
lib.
coarse salt
Y2 kg .
Y2 lb.
Y4 kg .
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
2 cups
egg
2 tsp.
Y2 liter
lOml.
l
Put all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix with your hands
until thoroughly combined.
166
V2 kg.
For added color and flavor, mix in about <l cup [50 ml.] of
blanched and peeled pistachios or 1 pound [lh kg.] of spinach
that has been parboiled for 30 seconds, drained, squeezed dry
and finely chopped.
To make about 6 cups [I % liters ] stuffing
l lb.
12
12
kg .
tsp.
Onion Puree
Soubise
To make about 3 cups [ 3/ 4 liter] puree
3 tbsp.
50 mi.
butter, diced
45 mi.
salt
One simple formula produces dough for both plain shortcrust pastry and for rough puff pastry. The difference is in
how you roll it out. For a two-crust pie, double the quantities
of all of the ingredients.
To serve 6
l lb.
l lb.
Y2 kg.
l 05 mi.
2 tbsp.
30 mi.
Croutons
You can substitute olive oil or clarified butter for the combination of butter and oil specified in this recipe.
To make about I cup [% liter] croutons
4 tbsp.
butter
oil
1 cup
flour
V4 tsp.
8 tbsp.
salt
cold unsa lted butter, cut into small
pieces
7 tbsp.
2
60 mi.
50 to
125 mi.
Remove the crusts from the bread and cut the slices into
cubes. Combine the butter and 14 cup [50 ml.] of the oil in a
large skillet. Melt the butter over medium heat and, as soon
as the butter-and-oil mixture is hot, add the bread cubes and
increase the heat to high. Turn the cubes frequently with a
broad metal spatula so that they brown evenly on all sides,
and add more oil as necessary to keep the cubes from burning. Before serving, drain the croutons on paper towels.
1/4
liter
1 mi.
120 mi.
45 to 60 mi.
Mix the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the butter and
cut it into the flour rapidly, using two table knives, until the
butter is in tiny pieces. Do not work it for more than a few
minutes. Add about half of the water and, with a fork, quickly blend it into the flour-and-butter mixture. Add just
enough of th e rest of t he water to allow you to gather the
dough together with your hands into a firm ball. Wrap the
ball in plastic wrap or wax paper and refrigerate it for two to
three hours, or put it in the freezer for 20 minutes, until the
outside surface is slightly frozen.
To roll out short-crust dough: Remove th e ball of dough
from the refrigerator or freezer and put it on a cool, floured
surface (a marble slab is ideal). Press out the dough partially
with your hand, then give it a few gentle smacks with t he
rolling pin to flatten it and render it more supple. Roll out
the dough from the center until it forms a circle about 1/z inch
[1 em.] thick. Turn the dough over so that both sides are
floured, and continue rolling until the circle is abou t 1/s inch
[3 mm.] thick. Roll the dough onto the rolling pin, lift it up,
and unroll it over t he pie dish. If using the dough to line a
piepan, press it firmly against all surfaces and trim the
edges. If using the dough to cover a pie, trim the dough to
within 1/z inch of the rim. Turn under the edges of the dough
around the rim to form a double layer, and press it firmly to
the rim with thumb and forefinger to crimp the edges.
To roll out rough puff dough: Place the dough on a cool,
floured surface and smack it flat with the rolling pin. Turn
the dough over to make sure that both sides are well floured.
Roll out the dough rapidly into a rectangle about 1 foot [30
em.] long and 5 to 6 inches [13 to 15 em.] wide. Fold the two
short ends to meet each other in the center, then fold again to
align the folded edges with each other. Following the direction of the fold lines, roll the dough into a rectangle again,
fold again in the same way and refrigerate for at least 30
minutes. Repeat this process two or three times before using
the dough. Always let t he dough rest in the refrigerator
between rollings.
167
Recipe Index
All recipes in the index that follows are
listed by their English titles except in
cases where a food of foreign origin,
such as kebabs or moussaka, is
universally recognized by its source
name. Entries a/sa are organized by the
major ingredients specified in the recipe
titles. Foreign recipes are listed by
country or region of origin. Recipe
credits appear on pages 174-1 76.
Algerian recipes:
gratin of ground lomb, 149
lomb couscous, 137
Almond-stuffed meatballs in curry
sauce, 97
Anchovies:
lomb fricassee with capers and, 142
sauce, 11 4
Anise: rock of lomb with, and sweet
garlic, 108
Apricots:
lomb with, 140
lomb stewed with, 139
rice and, stuffing, 106
shoulder of lomb with rice and,
stuffing, 106
Armenian recipes:
eggplant royal-style, 131
pumpkin and lomb shanks with
mint, 122
spinach stew, 138
stuffed meatballs, 162
Artichokes: lomb with, and brood
beans, 130
Asparagus: lomb or kid with, tips, 132
Australian recipe: herbed lomb
shanks, 109
Avignon-style lomb stew, 130
Azerbaijan skewered meatballs, 90
Boker's wife's lomb, 104
Basic white sauce, 164
Beans:
flageolets and green, 167
lomb with artichokes and brood,
130
Beef stock, 164
Belgian recipe: leg of lomb with
parsley and bread crumbs, 103
Bidding pie, 156
Bolton hot pot, 145
Bread:
leg of lomb w ith garlic cloves and,
sauce, 114
leg of lomb with parsley and,
crumbs, 103
Breast:
broiled lomb, 147
broiled morsels of poached lomb,
146
lomb, stew, 129
lomb, stuffed with chestnuts, 120
mutton, baked with rice and
potatoes, 134
168
Coffee:
roost lomb with, 104
sauce, 104
Cold cuts, boiled lamb shoulder for,
11 8
Colombo curry, 143
Couscous:
Algerian lamb, 137
lamb stuffed with, 118
stuffing, 118
Cream:
gravy, 160
meatballs cooked in, 160
Creole chops, 92
C roquettes:
mutton, 163
zucchini and lamb, with dill, Turkishstyle, 96
C routons, 167
Crown roast of lomb, 107
Crying leg of lamb, 100
Cucumbers: zucchini or, stuffed with
lomb, 154
Curried goat, 142
C urry:
almond-stuffed meatballs in, sauce,
97
baked lamb, 160
Colombo, 143
mutton, 143
C utlets: lomb, in paper, 109
Daube Avignonnaise, 111
Dill:
meat fricassee, 119
poached lamb with, sauce, 117
sauce, 119
zucchini a nd lamb croquettes with,
Turkish-style, 96
Dough:
rough puff, 167
short-crust, 167
suet crust, 155
Dutch recipes:
lamb stew, 128
roasted rock of lamb, 108
Eggplant:
baked lamb kebobs in, 153
lomb shoulder with, puree, 131
lomb-stuffed, 152
puree, 131
royal-style, 131
stuffed lomb shoulder with, 106
Eggs:
lomb chops with vegetables and,
92
lomb in, and lemon, 140
liaison, 129
English-style leg of lamb, 112
Epigrams of lamb with tartar sauce,
146
Fillets of mutton, 148
Filling, pistachio, 160
Flageolets and green beans, 167
Flash-fried lamb with scallions, 94
Force a leg of mutton, to, 145
Foresaddle: stuffed, of lomb, 98
French recipes:
Avignon-style lomb stew, 130
G arlic:
leg of lomb with, 103
leg of lomb with, cloves and bread
sauce, 114
marinade, 89
pork and, stuffing, 119
rock of lomb with anise and sweet,
108
roost lomb w ith, sauce, 102
shanks with, 121
Garnish, pa rsley, 163
German recipes:
bro iled lomb breast, 147
lomb fricassee with capers and
anchovies, 142
lomb with tarragon, 142
lomb with vegetables, 133
leg of lomb, 100
mariner's lomb chops, 123
shoulder of lomb with turnips, 116
stuffed lomb steaks, 126
Goat, curried, 142
Gratin of ground lomb, 149
Gravy, cream, 160
G reek recipes:
Cepholo nion meat pie, 156
lomb bandit-style, 11 0
leg of lomb, 104
stuffed lomb shoulder with
eggplant, 106
vegetable moussoko, 151
G reen bea ns, flageolets and, 167
Grilled skewered lomb and
vegetables, 90
Grilling and broiling, 88-9 1
Ground meat:
bulg ur and meat, 159
gratin of ground lomb, 149
kebobs, 91 .
See a/so Burgers; M eatballs; Potties
Guard of honor, 108
Hom:
braised lomb with, 144
and cheese stuffing, 166
mutton chops braised with, 124
roost lomb stuffed with, 105
Southern baked lomb and, hash,
159
stuffing, 105
Harissa sauce, 165
Hash:
hashed lomb, 158
mutton hashed venison-fashion,
158
Southern ba ked lomb a nd hom,
159
very special lomb, 158
Herbed lamb shanks, 109
Herbs:
roast saddle of lomb with, 107
two hind q uarters of lamb with
sweet, the, 98
Honey, lomb taiine with fruit and, 139
Hot or deviled lomb, 95
Hot pot:
Bolton, 145
Lancashire, 124
Russian, 127
Hungarian recipe: lomb Hungarianstyle, 133
Indian recipes:
almond-stuffed meatballs in curry
souce,97
fillets of mutton, 148
lomb with apricots, 140
meatballs cooked in cream, 160
mutton curry, 143
mutton hashed venison-fashion,
158
spiced lamb potties, 163
Indonesian recipe: mutton kebobs, 90
Iraq i recipe: bulgur a nd meat, 159
Irish stew, 125
Ital ian recipes:
ba ked lamb chaps w ith potatoes,
123
braised lamb with hom, 144
braised lamb or kid, 129
charcoal-broiled lomb, 89
hot or deviled lomb, 95
kid with lemon, 102
lomb braised with vegetables, 138
lomb cutlets in paper, 109
lomb in egg a nd lemon, 140
lomb hunter-style, 144
lomb with o lives, 91
lomb with olives, Abruzzi-style, 93
lomb roll, 110
lomb sa usage, 161
lomb from the stewpot, 127
lomb tenderloins in white sa uce,
126
roost baby lomb or kid, 105
roast breast of lomb with potatoes,
109
roast lomb with oregano, 110
stuffed kid, 99
Tuscon lamb fricassee, 129
Jamaican recipe: curried goat, 142
Japanese recipes:
braised lomb with vegetables, 132
lomb with pepper, mushrooms ond
scall ions, 95
Jewish recipes:
breast of mutton stewed with celery,
120
lamb stewed with apricots, 139
mutton breast baked with rice and
potatoes, 134
mutton chops with tomatoes, 123
Kebobs:
baked lamb, in eggplant, 153
ground meat, 9 1
mutton, 90
Kefta, 91
Kid:
braised lomb or, 129
lamb or, with asparag us tips, 132
lomb o r, in ca per sauce, 141
with lemon, 102
marinated, 99
roost baby lomb or, 105
stew, 124
stuffed, 99
Kofta, 97
Kohl rabi stuffed with lomb, 150
Lomb bandit-style, 11 0
Lomb hunter-style, 144
Moroccan recipes:
g round meat kebobs, 91
lomb with artichokes and brood
beans, 130
lomb with lemon and olives, 140
lomb shoulder with ca uliflower, 136
lomb shoulder w ith eggplant puree,
131
lomb stuffed with couscous, 118
meatballs, 96
neck of lomb with quinces a nd
o kra, 125
Moussoko:
baked lomb and potato, 151
French, with watercress, 152
vegetable, 151
Mushrooms:
lomb w ith pepper, and scallio ns, 95
souce,88
N eck:
coated, slices, 147
lomb, with quinces and o kra, 125
No isettes : lomb, with ta rragon, 96
North African recipes:
lomb stew with chicken and
potatoes, 145
lomb toiine with fruit and honey,
139
mutton with pumpkin sa uce, 135
spiced skewered mutto n, 90
spicy meatba lls, 97
Okra, neck of lomb with quinces and,
125
Old Cornish pie, 154
Olives:
lomb with, 91
lomb with, Abruzzi-style, 93
Iom b with lemon and, 140
lomb stew with, 133
Onions:
and pine nut stuffing, 162
pork and, stuffing, 117
puree, 166
sliced leg of lomb with fresh g lozed,
94
Oregano, roost lomb with, 110
Parmesan cheese, lomb chops with,
92
Parsley:
garnish, 163
leg of lomb with, a nd bread
crumbs, 103
leg of lomb with, sauce, 113
Posta stuffing, 99
Potties, spiced lomb, 163
Peas:
lomb with, 135
lomb stew with, 135
Peppers: lomb with, mushrooms and
scallions, 95
Perfect grilled lomb, 88
Pesta, 93;
lomb sa ute w ith, 93
Pickle, 148
Pie:
bidding, 156
Cepholonio n meat, 156
Monckton Milnes mutton, 155
169
170
seasoning, 95
Spanish recipes:
breast ribs of lamb with chocolate,
150
Catalan lamb shoulder, 116
fried lamb, 93
lomb chops, Navarre-style, 148
lamb in a piquant sauce, Basquestyle, 112
mutton stew from lbiza, 126
shepherdess's lamb, 144
stuffed leg of Easter lamb, 100
Spiced skewered mutton, 90
Spicy meatballs, 97
Spinach stew, 138
Standard preparations, 164-167
Steaks, stuffed lamb, 126
Stew:
Avignon-style lamb, 130
Dutch lamb, 128
Irish, 125
kid, 124
lamb breast, 129
lamb, with chicken and potatoes,
145
lamb, with olives, 133
lamb, with peas, 135
lamb and potato, 134
lamb, with potatoes, 134
lamb, sans pareil, 127
lamb stewed with apricots, 139
lamb from the stewpot, 127
lamb, with turnips, 136
mutton, from lbiza, 126
Rumanian lamb or mutton, 116
spinach, 138
Tunisian lomb, 136
white lamb, 128
Stock:
beef, 164
chicken, 164
lamb, 164
meat, 164
simple lamb, 117
veal, 164
Stuffing:
chestnut, 120
couscous, 118
ham, 105
ham and cheese, 166
meat and rice, 121
onion a nd pine nut, 162
pasta, 99
pork, 166
pork and garlic, 119
pork and onion, 117
rice and apricot, 106
Suet crust dough, 155
Suliman's pilaf, 157
Swedish recipes:
dill meot fricassee, 1 19
poached lamb with dill sauce, 117
Syrian recipe: lamb burgers with pine
nuts, 162
General Index/
Glossary
Included in the index to the cooking
demonstrations ore definitions, in italics,
of special culinary terms not explained
elsewhere in this volume. The Recipe
Index begins on page I 68.
Almonds: enclosing in meatballs, 86
Almonds, blanched: peeled
almonds. To make, pour shelled
almonds into a pan of boiling water to
loosen their skins. After a minute or so,
drain the almonds, then slip off the skins
with your fingers; 86
Apron, 9; folding around o roosted
saddle, 34, 35; w rapping around o
loin chop, 18, 19
Aromatics: herbs, 14; in o hot pot,
64-65; in moussoko, 76; in pilaf, 74;
spices, 80; in stew, 6 1-62; in stock,
52; vegetables, 7, 14, 48, 49, 50, 52,
58,61,62,64,65, 74,76,84
Artichoke booms: preparing,
57; in tajine, 56-57
Baby lamb: carving, 47; classed by
age, 6; lording, 7; roosting whole in o
home oven, 47; wine with, 7;
w rapping in pork ca ul, 7, 47
Baron of lamb: carving, 46;
deglozing juices, 46; ordering, 46;
removing rib bones, 46; roosting, 46;
stripping fell, 46; trimming lot, 46
Baer: coating meatballs w ith chickpea flour, 86
Beans: brood, in navarin printanier,
61, 62; brood, in tojine, 56-57;
combining flageolets with fresh green,
30; serving w ith roost lamb, 30;
soaking dried, 63; stewing lomb with
dried, 61, 63. See also Flageolets
Beef marrow: extracting a nd
grinding, 23; flavoring lomb
sausages, 22, 23
BiHer orange: a tan-flavored
orange used for its juice, also called o
sour or Seville orange. Obtainable at
fruit specialty stores and Latin American
markets in winter. If not available,
substitute the juice of a sweet orange
mixed with J teaspoon [5 mi. ) of fresh
lemon juice; 60
Black vinegar: a block-colored
vinegar with a distinctive mellow flavor.
Also known as Chenkong rice vinegar,
it is obtainable bottled at Oriental food
stores.
Bones: browning, 66; gela tin in, 80;
making stock from, 52
Boning: breast, 10-11; chilling meat
before boning, 10; removing the
pelvic bone from a leg, 10-11 ;
shoulder, 12-13
Bouquet garni: a bunch of mixed
herbs -the classic three being parsley,
thyme and boy leaf -tied together or
wrapped in cheesecloth and used for
flavoring stocks, sauces, braises and
77
Breast, 8; basting and glazi ng, 40,
41; boning, 10-11, 81; broiling pieces
coated w ith bread crumbs and eggs,
80-81; chilling before boning, 10;
cooking methods, 7; cooking in o
stew, 52-53; diagram of bones, 10;
fell, 40; flattening poached and
boned meat, 81; poaching, 80;
removi ng lot, 40, 52; roosting a
stuffed, 40-4 1; rolled boneless, 8;
shaping boned meat into wedges, 80;
stuffi ng with ricotto cheese, ham a nd
spinach, 40; trussing, 41
Broiling, 17; breast of lamb alter
poaching, 80-8 1; cooking leftovers,
69, 72, 74, 76; cuts for, 7; kebo b
sausages, 22-23; kebobs and
zucchini on skewers, 22, 23; leg
stea ks, 20-21; marinade lor, 20; oiling
meat, 20; in oven, 20-21; on o
ridged-griddle pan, 16, 20; seari ng
meat, 17, 20, 21; thickness of meat
lor, 20
Bulgur: a type of cracked wheat made
from whole kernels panially cooked
before crocking to speed their final
cooking. It has a subtle, nutty flavor
and is available -fine, medium or
coarse -from markets that sell Middle
Eastern foods and from health-food
stores; 82, 83. See also Crocked wheat
BuHer: coating chops with
Parmesan cheese and, 26; frying
chops in butter and oil, 26-27
Cabbage: parboiling leaves, 72;
wrapping and baking strips of leftover
meot in, 72-73
Caper sauce: making, with
poaching liquid, 51
Cardamom: on East Indian spice
consisting of a fibrous oval pod about
Y2 inch [I cm. ) long, containing J5 to20
hard, brownish block seeds with a
powerful, faintly lemon-like flavor .
When dried in kilns, the pod remains
green; when sun-dried, the pod
bleaches to a cream color; 86
Carrots: in o casserole with cushion
shoulder, 66; in doube, 58; in ho t pot,
64, 65; in marinade, 14; in navorin
printanier, 61, 62; poached, 50-51; in
shepherd's pie, 74-75; in stew, 52-54
Carving: attaching o monche 6 gigot
roosting, 34-35
Saffron: the dried stigmas of a
species of crocus. Used to import a
distinctive aroma and yellow color to
certain dishes. Sold in thread or ground
forms; 56
Salt pork: flavoring a doube, 58,
59; in stuffing, 15, 44
Sauce: based on poaching liquid,
49, 50, 51; from braising liquid, 49;
caper, 51; curry, 86; with flour and
drippings, for a hot pot, 64-65; mode
with deglozing liquid, 24, 29, 32, 33,
36, 40, 42, 44,45,46,60, 61,66,84,
85; of pureed tomatoes, 26; for
roosted and stuffed breast, 40, 41; for
stew, 54; veloute, 70, 71; white sauce
flavored with cheese for moussoko,
76, 77
Sausages: broiling, 22-23; grinding
meat, 22; mixing with beef morrow,
22; molding, 23
Sauteing. See Pan frying
Searing: before braising, 49, 61;
before grilling, 17, 18; broiling, 20, 21;
chops in lord, 64; kebobs, 22; pan
frying, 24, 25; potties, 85; in roosting,
29,32,34, 35,36, 39, 40, 42, 44, 46
Sesame-seed oil (Chinese and
Middle Eastern): o pungent, golden
173
Recipe Credits
The sources for the recipes in this volume ore shown below.
Page references in brackets indicate where the recipes
oppeor in the anthology.
174
de Pomiane, Edauard, Le Cornet d'Anno. Cal mannLevy, 1967. Translated by permission of Editions CalmannLevy, Paris(128).
Delfs, Robert A., The Good Food of Szechwan. Copyright 1974 by Kodansha International Ltd. Reprinted by
permission of Kodansha lnternotionol(95).
Derys, G a ston, Les Plots au Vin. Copyright 1937 by
Albin Michel. Published by Editions Albin Michel. Paris.
Translated by permission of Editions Albin Michel(99,
117).
D onati, Stella (Editor). II Grande Manuele della Cucina
Regionale. Copyrig ht 1979 Euroclub Italic S.p.A., Bergamo. Published by Sugar Co. Edizioni S.r.l., Milan. Translated by permission o f Euroclub(91, 102, 144).
Durand, Charles, Le Cuisinier Durand (Cuisine cfu Midi
et du Nord) . Newly revised eighth edition. Nimes,
1863(103).
Elisabeth, Mme., 500 Nouvelles Recettes de Cuisine.
Published by Editions Baudiniere, Paris. Translated by permission of Nouvelles tditions Baudiniere(112).
Eren, Ne~et, The Art of Turkish Cooking. Copyright
1969 by Ne~et Eren. Published by Doubleday & Company,
Inc., New York. By permission of the author(B9, 132).
Feslikenian, Franca, Cucina e Vini del Lozio. copyright 1973 Ugo Mursia Editore, Milan, Italy. Published by
Ugo Mursia Editore S.p.A. Translated by permission of
Ugo Mursia Editore S.p.A.(lOS, 140).
Foods of the World, American Cooking. The Great
West; The Cooking o f India. Copyright 1971 Time-Life
Books Inc.; Copyright 1975 Time Inc. Published by TimeLife Books, Alexandria(97; 139).
Greene, Bert, Bert Greene's Kitchen Bouquets. Copyright
1979 by Bert Greene. Published by Contemporary
Books, Inc., Chicago. By permission of the author and his
agent, James Brown Associates, Inc., New York( 102, 158).
Grigson, Jane, English Food. Copyright 1974 Jane
Grigson. Published by M acmillan London limited, 1974. By
permission of Macmillan, London and Bosingstoke(106,
108). Food with the Famous. 1979 by Jane Grigson. Published by Michael Joseph, London. By permission of David
Higham A ssociates Limited, for the author( 133).
Guasch, Juan C a stello, iBon Profit! (EI Libra de Ia Cocine lbicenco). Copyright by the author. Published by lmprento ALFA, Palma de Mollorco, 1971. Translated by permission of the outhor(126).
Guinaude au- Franc, Zelle, Les Secrets des Fermes en
Perigord Nair. Published by Editeur Berger-Levroult, Paris,
1980. Tronsloted by permission of the author( 112).
Hachten, Harva, Kitchen Safari. Copyright 1970 by
Herve Hochten. Reprinted by permission of Atheneum
Publishers(139).
Hawliczkowa, H elena, Kuchnio Polsko. Edited by Mario Librowsko. Copyright by Helena Hawliczkowa. Published by Ponstowe Wydownictwo Edonomiczne, Warsaw,
1976. Translated l:iy permission of Agencjo Autorsko, Warsow, for the outhor{150, 153, 154).
Hayes, Babette, Two Hundred Years of Australian Cooking. Copyright Thomas Nelson (Austrolio)1970. Reprinted by permission of Thomas Nelson (Australia)( 109).
H eUermann, Dorothee V., Des Kochbuch a us Homburg. Copyright 1975 by Verlogsteam Wolfgang Holker.
Published by Verlag Wolfgang Holker, Munster. Translated
by permission of Verlag Wolfgang Holker(1 00) .
H ewitt, Jean, The New York Times Lorge Type Cookbook. Copyright 1969 by Jean Hewitt. By permission of
Times Books, o division of Quadrangle/The New York
Times Book Co.(122).
Heyraud, H., La Cuisine Nice. Published by
lmprimerie-Libroirie-Popeterie, Nice, 1922( 134).
H ouse & Garden's N ew Cook Book. Copyright
1967 by The Conde Nest Publications Inc. By permission of
The Conde Nest Publications lnc.(ll1, 114).
Hutchins, Sheila, English Recipes and Others from Scotland, Wales and Ireland. 1967 by Sheila Hutchins. Published by Methuen & Co. Ltd. By permission of the outhor( 150, 155).
lny, Daisy, The Best of Baghdad Cooking. Copyright
1976 by Daisy lny. Published by Saturday Review Press/E.
P. Dutton & Co., Inc., N ew York. By permission of the Jean
175
Acknowledgments
Picture Credits
The sources for the pictures in this book ore listed below .
Credits for each o f the photographers and illustrators ore
listed by page number in sequence with successive pages
indicated by hyphens; where necessary, the locations o f
pictures within pages ore a/so indicated -separated from
page numbers by dashes .
Photographs by John Cook: 10- bottom right, 11 bottom, 14-top right, 15 - left, 18-top, 19- top left,
22 - top rig ht, 23 - bottom, 26-27, 30 -bottom, 32-top
right a nd bottom, 33, 40-41, 42-43 - top, 46, 50-51, 52top, bottom left, bottom center, 53-54,56, 57 - top left (2)
and bottom, 61-63,64 - top right end bottom, 65,68-74,
75 - top left, top center end bottom, 76-77, 78 -bottom,
176
lomb.
]The Good cook, techniques & recipes]
Includes index.
1. Cookery (lomb ond mutton] I. Time-life Books.
II. Series: Good cook, techniques & reci pes.
80-27942
641.6'63
1981
TX749.l228
ISBN 0-8094-2910-1
ISBN 0-8094-29098 (lib. bdg.l
ISBN 0-8094-2908-X (retailed.)