HOW TO REASSESS YOUR CHESS

PART 1:

BASIC ENDGAMES

Ch. 1: Understanding the King

1.

Opposition
The fight between Kings to determine which one is stronger is called the
opposition. Its where one king is unable to advance because every time it moves,
the king with the opposition will step in front of it, blocking its path.
Distant Opposition: Whoever is to move when there is an odd
number of squares between the Kings does not have the opposition. Whoever
is to move when there is an even number of squares between the Kings does
have the opposition.
The above rules also apply to diagonals.
In non-connecting situations the rule is: Move the King to a square or
rectangle in which each corner is the same color in order to obtain the
opposition. Each time someone moves, a new series of connection points are
formed.

2.

Outflanking
With outflanking, a player can make inroads into a position that were not
otherwise possible. Admittedly, this often costs the opposition but it must be
remember that the opposition is only a means to an end, not the end itself.
By putting a file (or rank) between the Kings, one side can prevent the
other side from taking direct opposition while simultaneously making
forward progress. This process is called outflanking.
Outflanking is a maneuver to change the direction of the opposition, i.e,
from horizontal to vertical, in order to reach squares that would otherwise be
inaccessible.

Ch. 2: King and Pawn Endgames

When trying to control a pawns queening square, advance your King as far as
possible without endangering the pawn, making sure to take the opposition at the critical
moments. When the King with the pawn is far advanced he can take the opposition at any time
because he will always have tempo moves with his pawn.
In endgames with only Kings and pawns present, the opposition takes on a huge
importance.
With King and pawn vs. King the battle revolves around the queening square of the
pawn. If the side with the pawn can gain control of this square he will queen his pawn and win
the game. If not, then a draw will result. The opposition will be the means by which one side will
succeed or fail in the quest. Rook pawns form the exception to this principal.
With king and pawn vs. King, the side with the pawns main hope to win occurs when his
king is in front of the pawn.
If the pawn is a rook pawn, and the defending king takes the queening square, it is
impossible to move him off the square. Its a draw.
The opposition doesnt mean much when the only remaining pawn is a rook pawn.
The side with the pawn must control the queening square and avoid having his king
trapped in the corner if he hopes to win.
To calculate whether a pawn can promote when the enemy king is far away, create a
diagonal extension and side extension from the pawn. Connect up its points and make a border.
If the King is not within or on this border the pawn will promote.
Defense
When defending against a king and pawn with only a king: always
jump in front of the pawn when possible. When this is impossible always
move straight backwards so that when the other King comes up you can step
in front of it and take the opposition.

Ch. 3: Rook and Pawn Endgames

Endings with just rooks and pawns are the most common form of endgame. The two
basic positions that must be thoroughly known in Rook endings are the Lucena and Philidor
positions.
Lucena Position
It is always a good idea to trap the enemy King as far away as possible
from the scene of action. This rule applies to all rook endgames. The key to this
endgame is what is called building a bridge.
The point of building a bridge is position the rook where the king can
move out from in front of the pawn and the rook can block the checks from
the opposing rook. This way the pawn can promote.
In defending the Lucena position, dont allow the side with the extra
pawn to get his King in front of his pawn.
You should also avoid having a passive rook. If a rook is passively placed
on the back rank (and king is also on the back rank), it is important to switch your
rook to the other side because it shows that the passive rook was not really
controlling the whole back rank.
With a pawn on the sixth (3rd) rank and opposing king on back rank, and
your rook on 7th rank; never push the pawn unless it is immediately decisive. The
pawn acts as cover for your king, pushing it destroys that cover.
Not completely necessary but it is always a good idea to put ones rook on
a safe square far away from the enemy king.
A knight pawn or rook pawn form an exception to the usual rules
when the opponent has a passive pawn. The game is drawn because the rook
cannot successfully switch over to the other side of the board simply because
there is no other side to go to.
Philidor position
The side without the pawn can usually draw by avoiding a passive
rook, avoiding the lucena position, and making use of Philidors defensive
plan.
If your king is forced to leave the queening square of the pawn and
run to one side or the other, always run to the short side of the board. The
reason for this is that later you may wish to check his king from the side. In that

case you would move your rook to the opposite edge of the board so that there is
as much room as possible between the enemy king and your rook. Also, if your
king is on the same side as your rook, it may get in the way of the rooks checking
powers on the far side.
When defending, activate your rook only after the pawn is pushed.
The other side will lose his pawn shelter and you can get a draw with a
perpetual check.

PART 2:

THINKING TECHNIQUES AND THE LIST OF IMBALANCES

If you want to be successful, you have to base your plans on specific criteria on the
board, not on your mood at any given time.
Ch. 1: What is a Plan?
Planning is the process by which a player utilizes the advantages and minimizes the
drawbacks of his position. In order to promise success, planning is thus always based on a
diagnosis of the existing characteristics of a position; it is therefore most difficult when the
position is evenly balanced and easiest when there is only one plan to satisfy the demands of the
position.
Ch. 2: Imbalances and the Silman Thinking Technique
To successfully penetrate into the mysteries of the chess board you have to be aware of
the magic word of chess: IMBALANCE. An imbalance in chess denotes any difference in the
two respective positions. To think that the purpose of chess is solely to checkmate the opposing
King is much too simplistic. The real goal of a chess game is to create an imbalance and try to
build a situation in which it is favorable for you. An understanding of this statement shows that
an imbalance is not necessarily an advantage. It is simply a difference. It is the players
responsibility to turn that difference into an advantage.
Breakdown of the different imbalances:
1.

Superior minor piece (the interplay between Bishops and Knights).

2.

Pawn Structure (a broad subject that encompasses doubled paws, isolated

paws, etc.)

3.

Space (the annexation of territory on a chess board).

4.

Material (owning pieces of greater value than the opponents).

5.

Control of a key file or square (files and diagonals act as pathways for
your pieces, while squares act as homes).

6.

Lead in development (more force in a specific area of the board).

7.

Initiative (dictating the tempo of a game).

If we are to use these things properly we must be able to break down our thinking in a
way that allows us to dissect any particular position.
Stages of the thinking technique:

1.

Figure out the positive and negative imbalances for both sides.

2.

Figure out the side of the board you wish to play on. You can only play
where a favorable imbalance or the possibility of creating a favorable
imbalance exists.

3.

Dont calculate. Instead, dream up various fantasy positions, i.e., the

positions you would most like to achieve. When you create fantasy
positions just airlift them to whatever square you feel they would do the
most good on. The idea is to see if the setup achieves anything concrete.

4.

Once you find a fantasy position that makes you happy, you must
figure out if you can reach it. If you find that your choice was not
possible to implement, you must create another dream position that is
easier to achieve.

5.

Only now do you look at the moves you wish to calculate (called
candidate moves). The candidate moves are all the moves that lead to our
dream position.

First find a plan and then develop your pieces around it. Never mindlessly develop and
expect to find a plan at some later point in the game.
If you cant answer the question What wonderful thing does my move do for my
position? dont play the move.
Always look at all possibilities; you must understand the whole position, not just half of
it.
Never pass in the hopes that an idea will come to you next move. Every move you make
should strengthen your position in some way.

PART 3:

CALCULATION AND COMBINATIONS

Ch.1: Calculation
In general, calculation is necessary to verify the tactical worth of a move that seems to
take care of the needs of a given position.
In both positional and tactical situations you must use the thinking technique (or at
least carefully weigh the imbalances) to find the proper plan or move. You only bother
calculating once the correct plan is clear and once you settle upon a move that helps your plan
come to fruition.
Candidate moves should be used in calculations. A candidate move is all the possible
(meaning reasonable) replies your opponent might make (or if it was your moveall the moves
that lead to the fulfillment of your plan). You should mentally list all possible candidate moves.
First, using the thinking technique, you find your correct plan, discover the move
that strives to make our plan a reality, and list your opponents intelligent replies. Only
when all this is done do you actually calculate each of the candidate moves.
This method consists of you logically talking your way through a position. All calculation
is done with a goal already in mind.
Normally you may want to look a couple of moves ahead to make sure that everything is
in order. Of course, once in a while very deep calculation is a mustyou simply have to look
deeply into the position.
Typical mentality of kingside attacks vs. queenside attack is that the queenside attack will
eventually pay dividends and that the opponents kingside counterplay will not really lead to
anything. The queenside attack is effective in a middle game and in an endgame because the
target is usually a weak pawn or square. A kingside attack usually aims at the enemy King. This
means that a queen trade will favor the queenside attach since the guy going for the King needs
the queen to head the mating attach. In other words, the side with the queenside attack is willing
to put up with a few insults to his Kinghe is getting endgame odds (the long range chances) in
return.
Mutually attacking situations always call for speed. If you hesitate and lose
confidence in your ideas, you will be utterly consumed.
Tips for improving tactical skills:
1. Go over games by masters that are excellent in tactics (Alekhine, Tal,
Kasparov). View the games from their side. Play out the first 10 moves to go
through the opening. Cover up the remaining moves. Write down your own
analysis of imbalances, candidate moves, calculate the moves. Then check with

the move that was actually played to compare. After you then go for the
opponents reply do the process again. Repeat for each move. Take breaks when
necessary.
2.
Read Kotovs book, Think like a Grandmaster. It is advanced to
only tackle it after attempting #1 for a while.
Ch. 3: Rules of Combination
There are certain rules of combinations that make combinations possible. If these factors
do not exist then a combination cannot exist either. Here is a list of these rules. Remember that at
least one of these factors must be present if a combination is to work:
1.

Open or weakened king. Also includes stalemated king.

2.

Undefended pieces (this does not include pawns).

3.

Inadequately defended pieces.

To find combinations all you have to do is keep your eyes open for one or more of the
given rules of combination. If you see these items in a given position, then and only then will
you look for a possible combination.
When you see one or more of the above factors on the board, you must look hard for a
possible combination. However, dont just look for moves. Instead concentrate on the logic of
what we are trying to accomplish.
Beware of an idiot combination. An idiot combination is when you play a flashy series
of moves not because of their great strength but because its pretty and you would look good
doing it. When the combination does not accomplish anything useful besides a forced trade that
doesnt help your position, avoid it.
Always expect your opponent to play the best move. Dont play a move hoping that they
play the only move that helps you.

PART 4:

MINOR PIECES IN THE MIDDLEGAME

Games are constantly won or lost due to one side having a superior minor piece.
However, this doesnt just happen. Such a difference has to be carefully nurtured if you want it
to obtain decisive significance.
First create some difference to work withbishop versus knight. Next create an
atmosphere in which the bishop will thrivea non-locked pawn structure so that the bishop will
have open lines, getting the opponents pawns on the color of the bishop so that they will be
vulnerable in an endgame, taking away advanced squares from the knight so that his minor piece
remains inactive. When all this is done steer the game into an ending in which the speedy bishop
eats the gimpy knight alive.
Create an imbalance and devote all your energy into making it a positive force.
Ch. 1: The Bishop
Bishops and knights are of equal value until you look at the position on the board. In
other words, either piece can dominate the other under the right conditions.
Bishops can be divided into three groups:
1.
Good: When its central pawns are not on its color and thus are not
obstructing its activity.
2.

Bad:

When its central pawns are on its color and thus block it.

3.
Active: This can be either bad or good; its called active simply
because it serves an active function.
First Rule Concerning Bishops
If you have a bad bishop you must correct it in one of the following ways:
1.

Trade it for an enemy piece of equal or greater value.

2.
Make it good by getting your central pawns off its color
(usually very difficult).
3.
Make it active by getting it outside the pawn chain (an
important rule to keep in mind).
Never play a move with the hope that the opponent wont see your threat. Only play
moves that help your position even if your opponent finds the best reply.

Second Rule Concerning Bishops

Bishops are usually strongest in open positions.
Fewer pawns in the way of a bishop the greater its scope. In general, bishops tend to have
an edge over knights in open positions. This is only generally because there is no such thing as
an all-encompassing rule in chess. There are always exceptions. Dont blindly follow these
rulesuse them as guidelines only.
Third Rule Concerning Bishops
In an endgame, with passed pawns on both sides of the board, bishops tend to beat
out knights, because of its long-range abilities.
Using the Bishop
Greater mobilization creates good chances of creating concrete threats and putting the
enemy on the defensive. This is called taking the initiative.
Dont play for traps. Dont hope that your opponent does something stupid. If you
develop the attitude where you expect your opponent to always make the best move, you will
force yourself to do the same. You will not grow to depend on your opponents mistakes
instead you will depend on your own good play. In other words, you always want to play a move
that does something positive. Even if your opponent plays the best move in return you will still
have improved your position in some fashion.
In endgames, bishops of opposite colors are known to be very drawish. In the
middlegame, however, they take on a completely different significance. Here they are known as
useful attacking pieces due to the fact that one can attack a point that the other cannot defend. At
times it is almost like having an extra piece.
1.
In an open position one must react quicklytime is of great
importance. Attacks are usually conducted by pieces due to the abundance of
open lines.
2.
In closed situations, attacks are initiated by pawn breaks. Slow
maneuvering is quite all right.
Normally (if you are trying to win) you would try to avoid a queen exchange with
bishops of opposite colors.

Ch. 2: Understanding Knights

Without a doubt knights are the hardest piece for the non-master to understand. This is
because they are short-range pieces and cant sit back and do an aggressive job from the rear as
bishops can. However, with the right knowledge and effort knights can be one of the strongest of
men.
First Rule of Knights
Knights need advanced support points to be effective.
A support point is a square that acts as a home for a piece. A square can only be
considered a support point if it cannot be attacked by an enemy pawn, or if the paw advance
would severely weaken the enemy position.
The further advanced a knight is, the more it starts to exert pressure on the opponents
position. Because of this, knights gain in strength as they advance down the board. The following
rules should prove useful for less experienced players:
1.
Knights on the first and second ranks are purely defensive and
are usually on their way to greener pastures.
2.
A knight on the third rank is useful for defense and is ready to
take a more aggressive stance by jumping to the fifth.
3.
A knight on the fourth rank is as good as a bishop and is well
poised for both attack and defense.
4.
A knight on the fifth rank is often superior to a bishop and
constitutes a powerful attacking unit.
5.
A knight on the sixth rank is often a winning advantage. It
spreads disharmony in the enemy camp to such a degree that the opponent
will sometimes feel compelled to give up material to rid himself of it.
A good plan involving knights: You start by trying to make your knights better. You then
find or create weak squares in the opponents camp. You finally find a way to get your knights to
these weak squares.
Second Rule of Knights
Knights are very useful in closed positions.
When central pawns get locked together, bishops tend to become inactive and devalued.
However, knights are very happy in such a climate. This is due to their ability to jump over other
pieces and pawns.

In closed positions tempi are not so important and play often takes on a slow pace. When
you have a helpless opponent, take your time and place all your pieces on their best squares.
Third Rule of Knights
Knights are the best blockaders of passed pawns.
The reason for this is that while bishops and rooks are blocked by pawns, knights can
stop a passed pawn and remain active owing to its ability to jump over men.
Fourth Rule of Knights
Knights are usually superior to bishops in endings with pawns on only one side of
the board due to their ability to go to either color.
What makes a bishop effective is its long range abilities. However, with pawns on only
one side of the board these long range powers become useless. Instead, the knights advantage
over a lone bishop becomes evident: while a bishop is forever trapped on one color, a knight can
go anywhere it wishes. What this means is that no pawn is safe from the hungry horse and the
enemy king can always be checked away from any square it tries to sit on.
Ch. 3: Dogs v. Cats/Bishops v. Knights
Bishops tend to be superior to knights in open positions. Conversely, a closed, blocked
position is more often than not going to see a knight triumph over a bishop. It is important to
realize that a bishop or knight are not of themselves superior to each other. It is what you do with
a position, how you form it and its pawn structure, that makes one piece stronger than another.
The Anti-Knight Technique
If you take away all their advanced support points the knights will be ineffective
and the bishops will have an excellent chance of winning out.
Because of this you must make some decisions before you trade off into a bishop v.
knight position. Ask yourself the following questions whenever you face the possibility of
creating this type of imbalance:
1.

Is the position open or closed? If its closed you may prefer to own the knights.
If its open the bishops may be a good bet.

2.

Will there be support points available for the enemys knights? If there are,
then other questions arise:
a.

Can his knights get to them?

b.

If the knights do get to these squares, does it matter? In other

words, if his support point is on the queenside but all the play is
taking place on the kingside then you would actually encourage
him to stick his knight on that far away post.

c.

Can the bishops reach similar or superior squares?

Once again, it is very important to answer these questions before you make the trade.
Dont make the mistake that so many players do and unconsciously make a trade only to
discover that the opponents knight is a dominant force. If youre going to give him knights
make sure that you can take away all his advanced squares and slowly create an atmosphere in
which your bishops will thrive.
Once you figure out the differences in the position, you must do everything you can
to make your imbalance outweigh your opponents. Dont get distracted from this directive.
Before making any move always ask yourself: Am I hanging anything? Does he have
any checks?
A superior minor piece alone will not win a game. You must create a target to finish off
the enemy.
Knights in general are poorly placed on the first rank and should only go there if they are
in transition to a nicer post.
Dont just leave your knights on reasonable looking squares. Place them on advanced
posts even if it takes several moves to get them there.
Ch. 4: The Power of the Two Bishops
The bishops weakness is that it is stuck on one color of complex squares. However this
is not a factor if a player owns two bishops. Two bishops working together are a very powerful
force because they have all the long range powers intrinsic in bishops and also control both
colored diagonals.
If you find yourself in a position with bishop and knight (or two knights) vs. two bishops
you should follow this useful strategy:
Trade a pair of bishops (or a knight for one of his bishops) and leave a
more manageable bishop vs. knight situation.
In general, a queen and knight is a better combination of pieces than a queen and
bishop. This is because the queen already has the powers of a bishop but the knight is something
completely new and tends to complement the queen nicely.

Bishops are not easy to contain. Their potential power must never be underestimated
even if dormant, they can spring to life at any time and dominate the action.
The usual way to combat two bishops is to do one of these three things:
1.

Create a blocked position.

2.

Create advanced support points for your knights.

3.

Trade off one of your opponents bishops and obtain a more

manageable bishop v. knight situation.

If these things cannot be accomplished, then the advantage will usually lie with the two
bishops. Of course, if you are the one who owns the two bishops then you will be trying to
avoid these three counters and will instead be going out of your way to nullify the enemy
knights by taking away all their advanced support points.
Ch. 5: The Two Knights Victorious
To combat two bishops you need a blocked position, good support points for the
knights, or a trade of a knight for a bishop leading to a favorable knight v. bishop situation.
The usual superiority of two bishops over two knights is logical; two bishops work
together very well, while two knights tend to run into each other and are much harder to manage.
Though knights are known to be strong in closed positions, they can also prove to be a
force in open positions where support points exist.
Support points for knights rarely just happen; you must actively pursue their
creation. If you can find a way to create support points for your knights, then there is no reason
why they should not prove just as good if not better than the enemy bishops.
Closed or semi-closed positions allow for lengthy maneuvers, and a player should not
feel that it takes too long to get there and start looking for another idea.

PART 5:

SPACE AND PREVENTIVE MEDICINE

Ch. 1:

The Big Squeeze

A players territory is usually determined by the positioning of ones pawns. If you look
at a line of pawns as a fence, we can see that the area behind these foot soldiers is their
propertythey have claimed it and put up borders that announce that claim. This extra property
is an advantage for a very simple reason:
If you have more territory you also possess more room to move around in.
The side with less space should initiate exchanges so that he will have more
room to move about in.
The side with more space should avoid exchanges.
Gaining territory on the wings is wonderful if the center is closed, but if the middle
is not blocked by pawns then central space will usually be boss.
The beauty of a space advantage in the middle is that centrally placed pieces can strike
out at the wings as they sit smugly on their central posts.
A territorial edge usually comes about from the opening, but this tends to be minor and
can be challenged if one plays actively and makes sure that some sort of counterplay exists.
However, if a player does not respond in a proper manner, then the tiny space disadvantage can
come back to haunt him.
When you have less space, exchange some pieces. This will give you more room and
make the cramp less critical. Naturally, the other side of the coin is that if you have more
territory, trade as few pieces as possible.
A space advantage is like having an enemy under control. While he is bound and gagged
everything is fine. However, if you relax your attention for just a moment he may find a way to
escape his bonds and jump all over you.
Ch. 2:

The Dark Side of Space

An advantage in space is a nice thing to have because it gives its owner greater room for
maneuvering while simultaneously restricting the opponent. However, it can also be a doubleedged sword. Since a space advantage is created by far advanced pawns, you can easily lose
control of critical squares as the pawns advance. The further a pawn advances, the less
squares it can potentially control. This means that at times these forgotten squares can fall into
the hands of the enemy, and instead of being an advantage the space edge becomes a curse. It
should also be noted that the advanced pawns themselves can often become targets, as can the
ones in back since they no longer have support from the front runners.

You must be very careful when you advance pawns because they cant move backwards
and what they give up is forever.
You cant just rush your pawns down the board in an effort to gain space. You must
carefully weigh each pawn move you make.
Control of squares (which give ones pieces nice homes which, in turn, leads to enhanced
activity) is just as important as an edge in space. Of course, in general superior space does
constitute an advantage. Nearly every rule or formula has exceptions, and all must be judged in
relation to the other imbalances and according to each individual situation.
Ch. 3:

Block Before You Punch

A space advantage can be very effective if you can prevent the opponent from
making use of any weakened squares or other avenues of counterplay. Its very important to
spend a few moves and stop him from getting anything startedwhen you finish killing his play
your advantage in territory will still be there. Once your opponents options have been silenced
and his army is groveling before you, then and only then should you look for a way to break
down his last defenses and penetrate into the heart of his position.
In closed positions with locked centers you must attempt to get open lines on the
wings by breaking with pawns. If your opponent accomplishes this before you do, you will
usually be at a marked disadvantage.
When you have a permanent advantage in one area, you should not just allow the
opponent to get counterplay in the other areas of the board. We are not after a race. We want a
risk free victory. Some people have the mistaken impression that if they control one area of the
board the opponent has a right to another area. If you can take over the queenside, center, and
kingside then you should do so. Greed pays in chessyou can be nice after the game.
It is good to take the initiative in an area of the board where the enemy is making
threatening gestures.
If you have space on one side but it doesnt come with any attackable target then
you will eventually run into a brick wall.

PART 6:

THE MYSTERY OF THE CENTER

Owning an imposing pawn center is both a boon and a responsibility. The positive side
of the pawn center is that it restricts the enemy pieces and gives its owner a spatial plus.
However, like any artificially built edifice, it may easily turn into a liability which will be in
need of constant defense.
The first responsibility of the owner of a big center is to make it indestructible. If
this can be done, then the opponent will be without play and will smother to death in the folds of
his own position.
Conversely, the responsibility of the player facing the pawn center is to apply
constant pressure to it, and try to prove it to be a weakness instead of a strength.
Ch.1:

The Center Under Siege

Creating a full pawn center is an act of war. Once you push your pawns to the middle and
start to annex space, you are announcing your intentions of entombing your opponent in its
prison like walls. This threat by asphyxiation forces the opponent to fight and destroy this central
monolith before it becomes too strong. He must throw everything he has at the offending line of
pawns before it destroys him. Remember, a center is only good because it restricts the
opponents pieces. If it has to advance and give the enemy pieces good squares then its whole
purpose has been negated.
A useful strategy to break open a strong center is instead of destroying the center,
force it to advance. This leaves weak squares in its wake.
There are two ways to defeat a center:

Ch. 2:

1.

Destroy it.

2.

Force it to advance; thereby creating weak squares that can be

occupied by the opposing forces.

The Indestructible Center

A center can fall apart if its owner doesnt take measures to insure that it remains intact.

To defend the center, you must guard each pawn, and attempt to prevent the enemy
from attacking the center with the usual breaks (pushing the c-pawn (or f-pawn) or one of the
center pawns to the 4th or 5th rank challenging one of the center pawns).
A typical change in the game is that one type of advantage may disappear but it usually
leads to the creation of another.
If your opponent wants something good for himself, dont let him have it.

PART 7:

WEAK PAWNSSTRONG PAWNS

Weak pawns are isolated, backward, or doubled. While it is true that such pawns are
often weak, it is also true that sometimes they are not; or that other factors outweigh their
potential weakness.
A pawn chain should be attacked at its base. Additionally, the idea is not necessarily to
win the base pawn but to make it move or trade it. This will severely weaken the rest of the
pawns in the chain.
Ch. 1:

Doubled Pawns
The doubled pawn is not all bad, and often it can be an actual advantage.
First, a doubled pawn gives its owner an extra open file for his rooks;

Second, (if the pawns are central) they allow for coverage of critical squares that
would not be possible if the pawns were undoubled and healthy.
A pawn is only weak if the enemy forces can get to it.
Sometimes doubled pawns lack of flexibility can turn potentially useful doubled pawns
into weak targets.
If your opponent has doubled pawns, you must strive to take advantage of their
inherent weaknesses. If you fail to do this then your opponent may make use of the dynamic
possibilities that they provide; the position will then turn against you.
The inflexibility of doubled pawns can leave you with fewer options than normal on
which side of the board you can play on.
Ch. 2:

The Isolated Pawn

An isolated pawn is potentially weak because no other pawn can help defend it. Since no
pawns can stand by its side, the square directly in front of it also tends to be vulnerable.
Good points of isolated pawns
1.

They can control squares that might turn out to be useful homes for
your pieces.

2.

There are open files on either side of an isolated pawnplace your

rooks on them and strive for activity.

3.

They can serve as effective battering rams. (forcing their way into the
opponents territory).

If you can advance and subsequently trade your isolated pawn, then the supposed
weakness was nothing more than an illusion.
The most common type of isolated pawn tends to be a d-pawn, and several opening
systems exist where white or black willingly allow themselves to be stuck with one in the hopes
that the pawns dynamic potential will offer ample compensation for its static weaknesses.
Piece activity is the key word when trying to make use of an isolated pawn. Often this
can translate into a direct kingside attack.
A central isolated pawn grants its owner active piece play, but as these pieces get
traded it becomes more of a liability. In general, an isolated pawn reaches its peak of
vulnerability when all the minor pieces are gone and only a couple of rooks (or queen and
rook) remain. In that case, the heavy pieces can double up and bring great pressure to bear on it.
With this in mind, the owner of the isolated pawn does well (if his attacking potential
has been spoiled and most of the minor pieces have been traded) to swap rooks. In this way, his
isolated pawn will be more tolerable.
If, as the defender, you were going to be left with only one major piece, it is better to be
left with a Queen. With just queens remaining, the king will not be safe in the center. Basically
put: Rooks are more cumbersome defenders than queens.
Ch. 3:

Backward Pawns
A backward pawns weakness or strength depends on the following questions:
1.

Is it sitting on an open file?

2.

How well it is defended?

3.

Is the square directly in front of it adequately defended by pieces?

4.

Is it serving a useful purpose defending the pawns that have gone

ahead of it?

5.

Can it successfully advance, thereby ridding itself of the backward

label?

As with an isolated pawn, if a backward pawn can safely advance then its weakness
will turn out to be more illusory than real.
The dynamic possibilities springing from active pieces often compensate for weak pawns.
Since a backward pawn is undefended by other pawns and is usually fixed in its
position, it tends to be vulnerable to attacks if it is placed on an open file. Whenever you see

a backward pawn you must ask: Can the owner of the pawn generate enough active play to
compensate for the potential weakness? If that compensating play is not there, then the pawn will
indeed turn into a target.
Ch. 4:

Passed Pawns

Passed pawns are usually thought of as huge assets, offering great chances in an
endgame. While this is true, passed pawns can also be a disadvantage.
The trouble with a passed pawn is that it can often be blockaded. In that case the pawn
acts as a traitor, since the piece that blocks it is safely hidden by your own pawn; in other words,
the pawn can be used as a shield.
You dont really want a passed pawn if it can be blockaded, unless you have play
elsewhere and the passed pawn acts as endgame insurance.
You should only allow a passed pawn if you can successfully blockade it. The best
blockader is a knight, because a knights strength is not diminished by having a pawn or a wall
of pawns in front of it.
Passed pawns can be extremely strong as it marches down the board to become a
powerful queen. Additionally, a far advanced pawn can also be used to offer support points to
your pieces.
When you have a passed pawn, it is usually a good idea to trade as many minor
pieces as possible. A situation with queen and two rooks v. queen and two rooms is excellent,
though queen and one rook may be even better, since that leaves the opponent with less chance
for counterplay. The idea of trading the minor pieces is that a queen and rook are poor
blockaders, and would be inferior to their counterparts who would not be hampered by such
considerations as blockading passed pawns.
Once a passed pawn is created, even in the opening, you must develop you army
around that fact in an effort to create an advantageous situation around the passer.

PART 8:

WEAK SQUARES

The reason one plays for control of a square (an undefended square is also known as a
hole) is that it will usually prove to be an excellent home for a knight or bishop (though
other pieces can also gain from laying claim to such a hole). In return, this piece will inevitably
be more valuable than its counterpart on the other side of the board. In a sense them the gain of a
square allows you to gain materially also, simply because your pieces become more valuable
than the opponents.
Ch. 1:

The Creation of a Weakness

Pawn advances can give you control of a square.

Piece exchanges that double the enemy pawns or trade off a squares defenders can
also lead to the creation of a hole.
The final way to induce a weak square is to make a threat that forces the opponent
to create a hole in order to counter it.
Ch. 2:

Making Use of a Weak Square

(this chapter is mostly examples of games, not many tips/rules)

PART 9:

MATERIAL LOSS AND SACRIFICE

One of the most important types of imbalance is inequality of material, and one must be
very careful before giving material away. All the same, it must be realized that material
inequality is an imbalance and not some mindless goal unto itself. This means that a players
plan, his potential for active play, and the opponents plans always come into consideration
before winning or sacrificing material.
A material advantage influences all phases of the game. In opening and middlegame the
side with extra material possesses more units of forcehis army is larger. Another influence of
material is that the down side is always afraid to go into an endgame where a material
disadvantage is usually decisive. Due to this his possibilities in the middle game are severely
curtailed. One might even go so far as to say that the side with a material deficit is giving
endgame odds.
While winning material can be decisive, this should not be the only goal you have. It
is just one of several possible imbalances. Whenever you plan to win material and stir the pot
of imbalances, you must ask the following question: Are you paying a price to win this material
and is that price too high?
Ch. 1:

Exchanging Material for Other Imbalances.

Material is just an imbalance like pawn structure, space and all the others. The irrational
fear of losing material (or the thrill of winning it) can often make us lose sight of the realities on
the board and leave us with blinders on.
Sacrificing material is a strategy to gain the initiative and to release pressure on key
points.
It is sometimes necessary to sacrifice one imbalance (material) in order to gain or create
another imbalance or to create chances.
Material sacrifices that lead to positional gains can fight for the initiative and force
the opponent to go through a difficult mental readjustment that can easily lead to errors.
One advantage of having material gain is that you can sacrifice it back for defensive
purposes.
Ch. 2:

Make Use of Extra Material: The Joys of Eating Wood

If you happen to have an advantage in material you must first of all determine just what
place this edge in wood has in the creation of a plan. In general, if you have an advantage in
material you should base a plan around it (like you would any imbalance). To understand a plan
in relation to a material advantage, and to be aware of the things we would like to avoid while
trying to achieve it, you should take note of the 4 rules of material gain:

1.
If you have a material advantage, find a plan that enables you to use the
extra material (using the extra material to overpower the opponent or trade all the pieces and go
into a winning endgame).
Dont expect the game to win itself.
When you are up an exchange you must create open files for your rooks. Without open
files rooks are no better than minor pieces.
2.
When you make a successful strike into the opponents camp and win
material, you must often pull your army back towards the center and reorganize your
forces.
The reason for this is that once you fulfill a plan you often find that your pieces are out of
balance and no longer work together. Since a shattered army rarely succeeds, it is of great
importance to recentralize your men and get them to relate to each other again. This type of
reorganization will prevent the enemy from launching a successful counterattack. With armies
that are doing equal work, your advantage in material should prove decisive.
A bonus to having a material advantage is that you can always sacrifice something back
and not be down anything.
3.
sacrifice.

When you take material, you put pressure on your opponent to justify his

This induces a certain element of panic which can easily send his brain spinning off into
the void. A good basic rule goes as follows: if you are in an uncomfortable position (or just want
to go all out for the win) and you are offered an unclear sacrifice, you should contain your fear
and scarf up the offered meal. By doing this you are saying, Giver me proof or lose!
You must get adequate compensation when you lose a material advantage.
Simplifications to an endgame almost always favor the side with more material.
4.
When up material you have the added defensive resource of giving material
back to stop an enemy attack.
While the opponent scrambles to regain his lost material, you quietly improve your
position. When the enemy finally recreates a material balance, you should have succeeded in
either equalizing a difficult position, grabbing the initiative, or gaining some sort of positional
advantage that will serve you well in the later stages of the game.

PART 10:

TEMPORARY IMBALANCES:

Initiative and a Lead in Development

Ch. 1:

Slow Play vs. Fast PlayStatic vs. Dynamic

Dynamic advantages are temporary and usually consist of active piece play, a lead
in development, threats against the enemy king, or some other sort of pressure on the
opponents position.
Static advantages are permanent and include space, material, pawn structure, etc.
A static advantage will not always be of much use against the power of a dynamic
assault. On the other hand, if the dynamic potential of the enemy position can be contained and
eventually negated, the trusty static advantage will be around to claim the win.
A dynamic vs. static battle can be part of opening theory. One side is willing to take on a
weakness in return for active piece play (a fast play situation); the other side needs to calmly
neutralize the enemys activity (a slow play situation) and then make use of his static advantages.
When you have a clear static advantage and have neutralized the enemys dynamic
advantage, you can take your time exploiting the static advantage.
The player with a static advantage can often expect their advantage to grow as the
pieces disappear from the board. The player with the dynamic advantage needs to keep the
pieces on the board.
When you have a static advantage, you should try to restrict the enemys activity and,
when everything is just right, capitalize on your long term advantages.
Superiority in dynamics (active piece play, more pieces in one sector that can lead to a
brutal attack, combinative possibilities) is every bit as useful as a static advantage. In fact, its
not at all unusual to see the static side completely overwhelmed by a hard hitting opponent. In
the end, the comparison between statics and dynamics comes down to one important question:
Will the immediate force of dynamic potential destroy the enemy before the static influences can
come into effect and take over the game? This means that if you cant unlock the positions
dynamic potential and make use of it, you will definitely succumb to the opponents static
pluses.
A sense of urgency is often needed to make full use of ones dynamic possibilities.
Your personal style and taste in how to play should not matter, you must figure out what
positive imbalances you have going for you and make immediate use of them.
When you have a dynamic advantage, by putting constant pressure on the
opponent, you never allow his static pluses to become important.

Ch. 2:

A lead in Development

Since a lead in development tends to disappear after a few moves, the side with the
extra development should try to use it quickly to create some type of static imbalance. For
example, you might be able to double or isolate an enemy pawn, gain a space advantage in some
area of the board, get a superior minor piece, etc. In this way your opponent may eventually get
all his men out, but he will be permanently saddled with a weakness or face some other type of
problem.
The ultimate ideal of a lead in development is to blast through the enemy lines of
defense and chew him up before he can get all his forces into play.
When behind in development dont open up the position. The reason is, the more
lines you open up the easier his pieces can get to you.
If you cant open up the position, a lead in development will not prove effective.
Generally, one should never allow the opponent a significant lead in development if the
position is wide open. An exception is if your king is safely castled and you are sure that you can
catch up before major damage is done.
If an opponent sacrifices material to achieve a lead in development, you should make him
prove that the sacrifice was worth it.
Many players, sacrificing a pawn, lose because they play as if they had lost it, rather than
deliberately parted with it.
There is a difference in giving up material as a means of highlighting other imbalances in
your position, compared to giving up material to gain a temporary initiative, attack or lead in
development. In the former, the sacrifice is logically based on the specific imbalances in a
position; while in the latter case the decision is often emotional in nature and puts great
psychological pressure on both sidesone player must defend with great care, the other feels the
constraints of time, knowing that the material deficit may eventually catch up with him.
Ch. 3:

Initiative

The initiative is a term that denotes control of the game. When you have the
initiative you call the shots and the opponent must take on the role of the defender. The
initiative can be based on either dynamic or static factors. If you are attacking a weak pawn and
your opponent is defending it, we have a case of the initiative based on static considerations. If
you are beating up your opponent due to a lead in development, we have a case of dynamic
initiative.

The player with the initiative must always strive to increase the scope of his pieces. By
playing actively and creating various threats, his opponent is kept off balance and is usually
unable to consolidate his position.
A player can have the initiative if he is materially even, up, or down.
Generally the more imbalances that you have in your favor, you will have an easier time
controlling the initiative. Additionally, if you can prevent counterplay, you can control the
initiative.
A large part of chess strategy revolves around the battle for the initiativeit starts in the
opening and continues throughout the game.
A material sacrifice often enables a player to wrest the initiative from an opponent
who seems to be in control. Knowing this, the player with the initiative might consider refusing
such a gift. Its wonderful to win material, but dont accept a sacrifice if it means passing the
initiative to the enemy.

PART 11:

OPEN FILES

The aim of all maneuvers on an open file is the ultimate intrusion along this file onto
the seventh or eighth rank, i.e., into the enemy position.
Rooks need open files if they are to become a force in the game. However, if the open file
does not fit in with the overall strategic plan, then it is not at all clear if you should play to
control iteach position has its own answer. In particular, putting ones rooks on a file often just
leads to the opponent doing the same, and a subsequent massive trade down this file would then
be a typical result. Of course, trades are not to be spurned, especially if you have prevented the
opponent from dominating a file that could lead to an eventual unpleasant penetration.
Before you decide to fight for a file or simply give it to the opponent, you should answer
the following questions:
1.
Is a penetration along this file possible for my opponent or myself? If it turns
out to be a dead end street then why bother with it in the first place?
2.
Can I afford to take the time to place my rooks on this file or do I have more
urgent business to attend to elsewhere?
3.
If I place my rooks on this file will they work with the rest of my pieces and
influence the imbalances in the position.
4.
Do certain factors in the position call for me to retain at least one rook? If so,
I might want to avoid the file (and a possible exchange along it) altogether.
Ch. 1:

Penetration Down an Open File

Once on the seventh rank (or second), a rook usually attacks many pawns and often traps
the enemy king on the back rank.
In the absence of more important considerations, a rook on the seventh rank is worth as
much as a pawn, because the seventh rank makes your rook better, and therefore more valuable,
than the opponents piece.
Though the seventh rank is the ultimate foal of every rook due to its ability to attack
pawns and tie down the enemy king, the sixth rank also has its virtues:
1.

It attacks an enemy pawn on that rank;

2.
Like a rook on the seventh, it allows for domination of a file by bringing a
rook and/or queen up behind it.
3.

It is always ready to jump to the seventh.

Control of a file may turn out to have more visual appeal than bite if no means of
penetration exists.
If you take away all entry points on a file, then the file will be more or less useless.
To neutralize a file, you should create your own files, and play to dominate a particular
square.
An open file has no worth if you cant penetrate on it; a file is also useless if it has
nothing to do with the other imbalances in the position.
Often a file is no great prize but it still offers a rook more activity than it would normally
have.
Ch. 2:

Domination of Open Files

If there is no play elsewhere, the only open file will take on great importance and
both sides will fight desperately for its favors.
It takes real skill to create a useful open file from a file that was once cluttered with
pawns and pieces. This is particularly important in cases of opposite side castling and the
subsequent wing attacks that typically arise.
You must open a file for your rooks if you hope to be successful in an opposite side
castling situation.

PART 12:

THREE KEYS TO SUCCESS

Three factors will make you a much better player than you might have deemed possible:
1.
Learn to recognize the different imbalances and acquire a sense of which
imbalance will dominate another in any given situation.

Ch. 1:

2.

Always strive to prevent the opponents counterplay.

3.

Never give up. Defend as if your life were hanging in the balance.
Mastering Positions with Many Types of Imbalances

It is very rare to have only one kind of imbalance in a game. Usually many will exist,
interacting with each other in ways that often make finding the correct idea far from easy. If this
happens to you, you must insist on finding a worthwhile path that blends in with the
imbalancesif it takes a long time then so be it.
Never play a move because it was your move and you had to do something. Never take
five or ten minutes and then play any old thing in the hope that you will avoid time pressure and
that the right idea will come to you in a move or two.
It is usual for certain imbalances to be present for both sides. However, you must keep an
open mind when utilizing your advantageous imbalances because they often mutate. In other
word, you must often be willing to give up one advantage in order to create another.
Ch. 2:

Preventing Counterplay

At times ones advantages might be clearly defined, but instead of proceeding to utilize
them it may be a good idea to curtail all of the opponents chances and only then proceed
unhindered with your own plans.
One of the most common errors an amateur makes is to win a pawn or get some other
type of long lasting advantage and then spoil his winning position by trying to force the issue.
When you have a permanent (static) advantage you should solidify your position before
striking outif you equalize all other factors your static advantage will give you a quiet,
risk free victory.
You can set up long term advantages in one area of the board and then win by
preventing the opponent from generative counterplay elsewhere.
Dont allow yourself to be distracted from your correct strategic plan.
Ch. 3:

The Art of Fighting Back

When you find yourself in a very bad position dont set one final cheap trap and expect to
resign if the opponent sees it. Instead, hold on as if your life depended on it. Do this by playing
the move that you would hate to see if you were in your opponents shoes. This type of tough
defending unbalances the opponent psychologically, it tires him and can often lead to blunders
that turn a hopeless cause into a victorious celebration.
To come up with a counterattack, you must have a favorable imbalance to use. If
you dont, you must do everything that is possible to create one.
Aside from making sure that you always have some favorable imbalance to fall back on,
there are two other defensive themes you should consider:
1.

The best reaction to an attack on the wing is a counterattack in the center.

2.
If you have less space trade piecesthis will ease your cramped position.
You should also trade pieces if you are under attack; this way you will eliminate his
attacking forces.
When someone is bringing their pieces to the wings for an attack they are simultaneously
taking away their pieces from the center. This often gives the defender a chance to open things
up in the middle and force the opponent to give up his attacking plans altogether. Remember that
the center is the most important part of the board. If you can gain influence there then by all
means take it.
If the opponent is building up for an attack and you are not able to undertake a
counterattack, then you must trade off his attacking units and reduce his army to a manageable
level. This is particularly useful if you are up material. Then you can sacrifice some of your extra
material back to force the attack-stopping exchanges.

PART 13:

USING IMBALANCES IN EVERY PHASE OF THE GAME

If you wish to play good chess you must realize that every phase of the game is part of
one homogeneous whole. The opening creates the imbalances that fuel the middlegame and these
same imbalances often influence the play right to the end of the game.
The previous material primarily focused on the middlegame.
Ch. 1:

Imbalances in the Opening

The true purpose of the opening is to create imbalances and develop your army in
such a way that your pieces, working together, can take advantage of them.
In closed positions development is not so important, simply because the opponent has no
way to get through to you.
No development is better than a bad development.
Allowing yourself to fall behind in development in the opening is alright as long as you
are conforming to the strategic designs of the position.
Generally, Knights are poorly places on the back rank. Generally, you shouldnt move the
same piece twice in the opening. However, you should ignore these rules if the position dictates
that it is necessary.
In positions with closed centers, both sides must turn their attention to the wings,
with play usually being initiated by pawn breaks. These pawn breaks serve two purposes:
1.

Open files for the rooks.

2.

Gains additional space on the side where you wish to make your conquest.

The whole point of successful opening play is to create some long term imbalance that
you can build around and nurture for the rest of the game.
When presented with a situation in the opening that you are unfamiliar with, you
should make every effort to understand the logic of the opening that is being played and
figure out the purpose of the variation that your opponent is trying to lead you into. Keep in
mind that every move you make should lead to some sort of gain other than just development.
Remember that your goal is to create at least one usable imbalance and then develop all your
pieces around this difference.
Avoid openings which give your opponent one or two useful imbalances while leaving
you with nothing to play for at all. Leaving yourself with nothing to build on equals a failed
opening effort.

Ch. 2:

Imbalances in the Endgame

Most endgame imbalances should be cultivated, nurtured, and used in much the same
way as they are in the middlegame.
When pawns are only on one side of the board, the knight is superior to the bishop.
This is because the bishops long range powers are useless, while the knights ability to go to any
colored square is of great importancenothing is safe.
In general a bishop is superior to a knight if there are pawns on both sides of the
board, because then its long range powers come into effect.
A bishop always beats out a knight in a mutual passed pawn situation. The knights
limited mobility generally makes it a poor piece to stop passed pawns.
Most imbalances have the same effect in the endgame as they do in the middlegame.
However, some endgame situations do change the nature of rules that are taken for granted in the
middlegame. Two of these rules are:
1.

In the middle game it is well known that you should keep your king
safely hidden behind its pawns. In the endgame the king turns into a
fighting piece (the reduced forces make it safe from attack) and must be
brought into the center of the board as quickly as possible.

2.

In the middlegame you usually want to place your pawns on the same
color as the enemy bishop since then it will be blocked and its activity
will be curtailed. In the endgame you want to place your pawns on the
opposite color from the enemy bishop so that your pawns will be safe
from the bishops carnivorous advances.

In the opening a space advantage restricts the opponents options and in the middle game
it takes away his active possibilities. Since space consists of far advanced pawns that map out
territory, an endgame situation might easily see these advanced pawns becoming threats to
promote, even if they are not passed.
A space advantage in the endgame gives you tactical options (sacrificing a piece in
order to promote an advanced pawn), additionally you can use it to restrict the opponents
moves. Since space is such a useful commodity, it pays to go out of your way to claim it; this
means that a plan based on the acquisition of territory is an effective way to play many endings.
A space advantage can take on epic proportions in a knight endgame. The reason for
this is that the side with more territory has plenty of room in which to move his knight to any
juicy post that comes to mind. The cramped player though, finds that his knight is unable to
maneuver to its best squares due to lack of leaping space.

Ch. 3:

Opening Imbalances That Last to the Endgame

Usually the imbalance we create in the opening does not lead to any specific endgames.
However, if you give your newly created imbalance the attention it deserves, it can and often is
an important element in the middlegame and a decisive factor if an endgame is reached.
A typical imbalance that you want to nurture is the differences between minor
pieces.
If you have a situation where you are playing opposite sides, it is very important to
get your opponents attention and make him react to your threats. In that way he will never
really have time to start implementing his own plans.

GENERAL TIPS
If the opponent has the two bishops, trade one bishop off. This will lead to a more
manageable bishop v. knight situation.
It is important to create weak, attackable points in the enemy camp. If you happen
to possess one of these weaknesses you should do everything you can to get rid of it.
In all positions all you can do is find the imbalances and attempt to make them
favorable for you. Once you have things in your favor you must nurture it and make it grow.
You also have to point out the drawbacks in your opponents position and strive to make these
negatives more pronounced. You will find that tricks are not necessary if you play in this
restrained but logical fashion.
You always play in accordance with the imbalances. If your opponent has a weak pawn
you play to weaken it further and eventually win it. If he has a knight, you play to take away all
its advanced support points, thereby relegating it to the first few ranks and relative inactivity. If
you only advantage is your opponents bad bishop you play to make it consistently worse and
your own consistently better.
Whenever you are in trouble you must ask, Why am I suffering? Whats wrong with my
position?
If youre in trouble you have to identify the problem verbally and then find a way to cure
the problem. You cant just analyze since it is difficult to cure an unknown disease. First
verbalize, then analyze.
Take as much time as necessary to solve a problem you are in. Dont be lazy and just
give up. Chess is part knowledge mixed with lots of willpower.
It is an important fact that in closed positions pawn breaks on the wings take on great
importance simply because this the only way that the rooks can be brought into play.
Dont be afraid of ghostsmake sure a future move by an enemy does something to help
the enemy or hurt you before you bother preventing it. Dont get so engrossed in a single piece
that you ignore what the rest of your army needs.
When attacking the king, dont just check a king here and there. First cover the squares
that it can run to. This way your checks will become a mate. This technique is called building a
mating net.
You must act quickly if you only have a temporary advantage.
You must make use of your favorable imbalances.

You should not rush madly at the enemy king like a berserker. Instead you should pick
one point and apply pressure to it in an effort to induce a weakening.
By trying to make your temporary advantage into a permanent advantage, you can carry
your advantage into the endgame if a middle game knockout punch is not possible.
Dynamic advantages are not necessarily better than static ones; the individual position
will determine which one will win out. If the dynamic (immediate) advantage can be nullified,
then the static (long range) plusses of the defender should lead to eventual victory.
Never leave yourself with no favorable imbalances or no chances to create them. It is
much better to sacrifice material for some sort of compensation than to sit around possibly with
nothing whatsoever to crow about and lose like a dog. Note that you must sacrifice for
compensationdont sacrifice for one or two cheap shots and then resign if your opponent
doesnt fall for your traps.
If center files are open it is rarely a good idea to decentralize your forces.
Never be satisfied with what you havechess is a game for greedy people. Leave the
opponent with as many weak points as possible and his game will eventually disintegrate.
While it is true that most books tell you to capture with your pawns towards the center it
is correct to capture away from the center at least thirty-five percent of the time. This tells you
that these rules are just basic guidelines. Every situation requires independent and original
thought.
When you reach an endgame bring your king towards the center.
You should always be trying to attack the weak points in the enemy camp. If none exist,
its up to you to create some.
Keeping the initiative is more important than rushing your pieces onto the sidelines
even if it does win a pawn. Pawn grabbing is fine as long as you dont throw away most of your
other advantages along the way.
Planless one-movers will rarely lead to a good result and should be avoided. Remember:
Expect your opponent to see your threats. Every move you make should be a strengthening of
your position, not just the setting of a cheap trap.
If one enjoys an impregnable position, it is common for that player to make a few do
nothing moves in order to gain time on the clock.
When the opponent is helpless you can and should take as many moves as you wish in
setting up a desired position. By not letting the opponent know what you intend to do and when
you intend to do it, you keep him off balance.

The person with a weakness or target is usually off balance and forced onto the defensive.
Never allow yourself to believe that any one imbalance will always beat out another
they are all of equal value and only take on special significance in relation to other factors in the
position.
All your pieces must work together towards a common goal. Dont make a move because
it looks good or because it goes along with a basic rule
You can only attack an enemy piece if you succeed in chasing it to an inferior
square. Even then you wont do this if it means creating too many weaknesses in your own
camp. Never allow yourself to think that he may leave his piece hangingtrain yourself to
always expect your opponent to play the best move.
Bishops of opposite colors give the side with the initiative attacking chances.
One positive imbalance is usually not enough to win by itself. Two points of attack,
though, will often be more than a defender can handle.
When you have a dominant position, it is always nice to put an end to all back rank mate
problems.
If your enemy is helpless then you should not care how long it takes for your pieces to
reach ideal placement on weak squares. However, if your enemy has threats of his own, you
might play to defuse your opponents plans and only then bring your pieces to their desired
homes.
Endgame strategy: you should put your pawns on safe squares (opposite color as an
enemy bishop). Middle game strategy: you should put your pawns on the identical color of the
enemy bishop in an effort to restrict it.
When you are significantly ahead in an imbalance, dont get overly aggressive. Take time
to achieve more favorable imbalances and to strengthen your current ones.
When the enemy has no counterplay, dont rush your position.
When in doubt play in the center. A plan based on centralization will rarely lead you
astray because your pieces can quickly go to any area of the board where they may be needed.
When you have a lead in development, you should make use of this by opening up the
position and attacking the enemy king if possible.
Tying pieces down to defend pawns, is useful in neutralizes counterplay.

Generally, when you win material, stop rushing forward. Instead you must tighten
everything up, defend your weak points, get your army to work together again, and only then
start the final assault.
Only play where the imbalances tell you to play.
If your opponent has an isolated pawn, a queen and a rook are necessary to take complete
advantage of the pawns weakness.
Bishops of opposite colors are useful attacking tools (because one cant defend what the
other attacks) but are often drawish in endgames.
You must have patience while you build up your position and look for a method of
penetration when you have a spatial advantage.
If you dont do what the position needs, bad things will happen to you. The only way you
can hope to worry your opponent is by putting pressure on him.