Charlie’s Aunt

Vintage Inspired Sewing Patterns

by Emma Brennan

“Contained within are

instructions and templates to
create your very own
Sudbury Saddle Bag”

“Sudbury Saddle Bag”

The 1940s-inspired Sudbury Saddle Bag combines
eye-catching asymmetrical styling with a large
practical size and shape. It evokes the simple
elegance of the designs of the wartime years.

www.charliesaunt.com **** Charlie’s Aunt **PDF pattern 20**** © Emma Brennan 2013
 Page 2
“Sudbury Saddle Bag”
By Charlie’s Aunt
The 1940s-inspired Sudbury Saddle Bag combines eye-catching asymmetrical styling with a large
practical size and shape. It evokes the simple elegance of the designs of the wartime years. The
bag features a curved front pocket that doubles as an interior pocket, and has a strap that is
broad and long enough to sit comfortably on the shoulder.

General Instructions
For PDF patterns, before you start, print all of the pattern templates,
with scaling set to “none” or “no margins” or “borderless” in print
properties.
For the “Sudbury Saddle Bag” there are 16 pages—9 pages including
the cover, general, cutting out and step-by-step instructions, and 7
pattern sheets with the templates, which you must print and cut out. All
of the templates are actual size.
Most of the templates are too big to fit on one page and therefore must
be cut out and joined together with tape at the dashed lines, matching
symbols where indicated. Instructions for this are clear.
Two of the pattern pieces have been drawn ‘on the fold’. This means
that the piece needs to be cut on the fold of the fabric. See pattern
template guide and instructions on page 3 for more information.

Materials needed:

 ¾ yard (50cm) of 54” (140cm) wide, or 1 yard

(92cm) of 44” (112cm) wide exterior fabric
 2/3 yard (60cm) of 44” (92cm) wide lining fabric
for bag lining, front pocket lining and interior
pocket
 1 yard (92cm) of 36” (92cm) wide sew-in craft
interfacing for bag body and upper flap (optional:
plus the same of batting for bag body)
 2/3 yard (60cm) of 36” (92cm) wide fusible
interfacing for flap underside, strap, exterior and
interior pockets
 1 magnetic snap set
 3 buttons approx. 1½” (40mm) diameter to trim
strap ends and flap
 Piece of plastic canvas or similar 3” x 8” (8cm x
20cm) to insert in bag base

© Emma Brennan 2013

Cutting Out Instructions Page 3

Before you start, you must cut out and tape together the following
pieces to create whole templates:

Join Aa and Ab for complete front/back template Bag Finished dimensions:

Height 11” (28cm)
Join Ba and Bb for complete gusset template Width 13” (33cm)
Base depth 3” (8cm)
Join Ca and Cb for complete flap template
Join Ea and Eb for complete strap template

After joining the templates:

Cut 2 x piece A (front/back) on fold from exterior fabric
Cut 2 x piece A (front/back) on fold from sew-in interfacing
Cut 2 x piece A (front/back) on fold from lining fabric
Cut 1 x piece B (gusset) on fold from exterior fabric
Cut 1 x piece B (gusset) on fold from sew-in interfacing
Cut 1 x piece B (gusset) on fold from lining fabric
Cut 2 x piece C (flap) with WST from exterior fabric
Cut 1 x piece C (flap) from fusible interfacing
Cut 1 x piece C (flap) from firm sew-in interfacing
Cut 1 x piece D (exterior pocket) from exterior fabric
Cut 1 x piece D (exterior pocket) in reverse from lining fabric
Cut 1 x piece D (exterior pocket) in reverse from fusible interfacing
Cut 2 x piece D (interior pocket) from lining fabric
Cut 1 x piece D (interior pocket) from fusible interfacing
Cut 2 x piece E (strap) on fold from exterior fabric
Cut 1 x piece E (strap) on fold from fusible interfacing

Pattern template
C guide: Two of the pattern pieces
have been drawn ‘on the
A fold’. This means that the
E A = Front/Back piece needs to be cut on
B = Gusset the fold of the fabric.
C = Flap Where a pattern template
D = Pocket has a fold line written along
E = Strap
an edge, this means you
must place this edge of the
D pattern along a fold in the
fabric when you are cutting
out the bag. In effect, the
template is “half” of the
piece – by cutting on the
fold you will cut out the
B other half at the same time.
© Emma Brennan 2013
 Page 4
Making Up Instructions

Step 1 – Make exterior pocket 1A 1B

A. Iron interfacing onto wrong side of pocket (D). Place

Right side
pocket and lining (D) pieces RST and pin. Leaving a Wrong side of fabric
gap in the centre of the lower edge seam of about 1½” of fabric
(4cm) for turning pocket through, stitch together round
side, upper and lower edges in a continuous line,
pivoting at the corners. Clip seam at curved edges and
corners.

B. Turn pocket RSO through gap and press. Slipstitch gap closed.
4” (10cm)
C. Pin pocket onto right side of bag front using dashed line on front (A) Right side
template as a guide. The upper pointed edge of the pocket should be 1C of front
about 4” (10cm) from the upper raw edge of the bag and the lowest
point of the curve should be 1¼” (3cm) from the lower raw edge. Note:
It is essential to stitch the pocket in the right place so it aligns correctly
with the line of the flap. Stitch in place about ¼” (6mm) from the edge.

Step 2—Stitch front and back to interfacing

Pin bag front (with pocket now attached) and bag back (A) to
corresponding interfacing sections and baste together round entire
outside edge, about ½” (13mm) from the raw edge. (Refer to General
Instructions sheet for help). Make sure edges of exterior fabric align 2
with the edges of the interfacing all round. Note: At this point, transfer
the magnetic snap marker point for bag front onto interfacing side of
the piece.
Right side of
Step 3—Stitch gusset to interfacing fabric

Pin gusset (B) to corresponding interfacing section and baste together

round entire outside edge, about ½” (13mm) from the raw edge. This
line of stitching will also act as “stay” stitching (refer to General
Instructions for help). Clip up to stay-stitching on central section of
gusset between marks on pattern template (along dashed line) as in
the diagram below. This will enable you to curve the straight gusset
piece to fit the curved front/back pieces when stitching them together in
steps 4 and 7. Also transfer strap placement markings to gusset at this
stage using thread or chalk.

Right side of
fabric

Place pins at marks on template and snip every ½” (13mm) up to

the stay-stitching, taking care not to cut the stiches.
© Emma Brennan 2013
 Page 5

(Note: Front pocket

Step 4—Stitch gusset to bag front not shown)

Mark centre of gusset with a pin on both sides. Mark Right side 4
centre of bag front also with pins. With centre points together, pin of fabric
gusset to bag front, using snips you have made (up to the stay-
stitching on the gusset between the marks) to help ease the
gusset round the curved edges of bag front. Note: Make sure
ends of gusset align with top edge of bag on both sides.

Gusset
wrong side

Step 5 – Make strap

5A
A. Iron interfacing onto wrong side of one
strap (E) piece. Place two strap pieces with
RST and pin. Starting from the centre point on
one side, stitch together down both sides and
curved ends, leaving a gap of about 2” (5cm) 5B
through which to turn the strap RSO. Clip
into seam allowance at curved ends.

B. Turn strap RSO, press and slip-stitch gap

closed. Topstitch round entire outside edge
about ½” (13mm) from edge and press again.

Step 6 – Partially stitch strap to bag gusset

Following strap placement markings on gusset template (B) pin strap to bag gusset 6
on one side. Note: The lowest point of the curve should be 2½”(65mm) from the
upper raw edge of the gusset. Stitch about ¼” (6mm) from the edge in a horseshoe
shape as shown on the diagram. Important: By just stitching in a horseshoe shape
along the lower edge only, this will leave enough room above the strap to enable
you to stitch the bag to the lining comfortably in step 12 and to topstitch around the
bag top at the end in step 13 without catching the strap in the seam. Note: NO NOT 2½”
stitch the buttons to the strap until the bag is complete. (65mm)

Gusset
right side
Step 7 – Stitch gusset/front to bag back

A. Mark centre of gusset and bag back with pins.

With centre points together, pin gusset (already
stitched to front) to bag back using snips you
have made (up to the stay-stitching on the gusset
between the marks) to help ease the gusset
round the curved edges of bag front. Make sure Wrong side of
fabric
ends of gusset align with top edge of bag on both
sides.
7B
B. Clip into seam allowance round curved edge
on both sides to free up seam.

© Emma Brennan 2013

 Page 6
Step 7 continued

C. Turn bag RSO and press. Note: It is important to push the curves 7C
of the bag’s lower edge out and press well at this point to give the
bag its shape. Push a piece of cloth—a tea towel is ideal—into the
bag to fill out/stuff the curve on one side, then using a damp cloth on
the outside, press the bag thoroughly. Repeat with other side of bag.
Right side
of fabric

Step 8 – Make flap

A. Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the flap (C) underside piece
and stitch firm interfacing to the upper flap piece to give it added
firmness. You will need to use a damp cloth to help release the
bonding unit in the fusible interfacing. Make sure the interfacing is
stuck down well all over. To stitch interfacing on, place flap and Right side of flap
interfacing with WST and stitch around entire outside edge of flap, 8B underside
about ½” (13mm) from the edge.

B. Transfer the magnetic snap position marker onto the interfacing

side of flap underside and fix non-magnetic half of snap to flap under-
side. Refer to general instructions for help.

C. Pin the flap pieces (C) with RST. Stitch together round 8C
curved side/lower edges, leaving a ½” (13mm) seam allowance
and pivoting at the points. Trim away any excess bulk, clip into
Wrong side
the seam allowance round curves.
of fabric Right side
of fabric
D. Turn flap right sides out. Press flat with a damp cloth, then
topstitch all round using a longer stitch length. Press again.

8D

Step 9—Stitch flap to bag

9
Mark centre of flap and back bag with pins. With centre points
together, pin finished flap onto back of bag, right outside of flap
against right outside of bag back, with raw edges even. Stitch using a
long stitch length, approx. ½” (13mm) from the raw edge.
Underside
Note: At this point, fix other half of magnetic snap to bag front. Using of flap
the marker on the interfaced side of the bag front, attach the magnetic
half of the snap to bag front. Important: Double check that the half of
the snap on the flap aligns with the mark you have made before fixing
magnetic section. Make sure you allow for the seam allowance at the
top edge of the bag, which will make it approx. ½”/13mm shorter, and
for the 2” (5cm) depth of the gusset so the bag does not end up too Right side of
‘flat’ when the flap is fastened closed. If you use a sew-on snap, leave bag back
this until you have completed the bag for added accuracy.

© Emma Brennan 2013

 Page 7

Step 10 – Make interior pocket

A. Iron interfacing onto wrong side of one interior pocket piece

(D). Place pocket and lining (D) pieces RST and pin. Leaving Wrong Right side
a gap in the centre of the lower edge seam of about 2” (5cm) side of of fabric
for turning pocket through, stitch together round side, upper fabric
and lower edges, pivoting at the corners. Clip seam at curved 10B
edges and corners.

B. Turn pocket RSO through gap and press. Slip-stich gap closed.

C. Pin pocket onto right side of bag back lining piece. Note: The 10C
interior pocket should be placed centrally and higher up than the
front exterior pocket. Stitch in place as shown in diagram, about ¼”
(6mm) from the edge.

Place pocket
centrally on
back lining

Step 11—Make lining

Stay-stitch along outside (long) edges of gusset on both sides, about

½” (13mm) from the raw edge. Clip up to the stay-stitching at
intervals between the marks as you did for main bag. Stitch lining
pieces together as you did for main bag but leave a gap of around 5”
(13cm) in the centre of the bottom of one of the gusset seams for
turning the bag through. Make seams on lining slightly bigger than
Wrong side
½”/13mm so the lining will be a little smaller than the bag and will 11 of lining
therefore sit better. fabric

Step 12—Join bag and lining

Insert bag into lining with RST. Important

note: Tuck strap down out of the way so it
doesn’t get caught in the seam. Pin bag and
lining together through all thicknesses round Don’t forget to
upper edges, having raw edges even, and leave a gap for
turning the bag
gusset side seams pressed open and 12
matching. (Note: You will be pinning through
the flap on the back piece too). Stitch through Wrong side
all thicknesses using a normal stitch length and of lining
leaving a seam allowance of just over ½” fabric
(13mm). This will be quite a lot of thicknesses
to sew through, so stitch slowly and carefully.
Trim seam back to 3/8” (1cm) and clip into the
seam allowance at sides.

Step 13—Turn bag right side out and topstitch 13

Turn the bag through the opening in the bottom of the lining and push the lining
to the inside of the bag. Roll the lining with your fingers so that it is not visible
from the outside and pin it in place all round top, ensuring that the flap will sit
correctly. Note: Make sure the strap is pulled down out of the way as in the
diagram. Topstitch through all layers, about ½” (13mm) from the top of the bag,
using a long stitch length. (Again, this will be quite a lot of thicknesses to sew
through, so stitch slowly and carefully).
© Emma Brennan 2013
 Page 8
Step 14—Finishing

A. Cut the rectangle of plastic canvas to size 14C

and insert centrally into the bag base. Slip-
stitch the opening in the lining closed, tuck
lining back into bag and give the bag a final
press with a cloth. Press first with flap open 14B
and then again with flap closed. If necessary,
to secure the lining into the bag further, you
can hand stitch a few stitches at the side
seams, through bag and lining. Note: Stuffing
the bag at this point will help with the
pressing. Again, a tea-towel is ideal.

B. Stitch one large button to the strap on each

side as shown in the diagram. Note: You
should stitch the button through all layers
(strap/bag/lining) so that you are securing the
upper part of the strap to the bag at the same
time.

C. Finally, stitch another button to the pointed part of the

flap as shown on the diagram and cover photograph.

Step 1
Step 2

General terms used in the Sudbury Saddle Bag pattern:

Most sewing can be completed on a sewing machine. Start and end every
seam with a few backstitches to prevent it from coming undone.
Most seam allowances (the distance between the stitching line and the raw
edge) are ½” (13mm) unless otherwise stated.
Where a seam is curved or comes to a point, you will be asked to clip into the Interfacing
seam allowance carefully with scissors (up to the stitching but without cutting it!)
to help free up the seam and make it lay better. Interfacing is as important as your outer
Topstitching is used on flaps and round the upper edge of the bags. This fabric for handbag making and a firm heavy
weight sew-in interfacing is vital for this bag
means that a seam is stitched about ½” (13mm) from the edge, which will show to give it the 3D shape. The bags on the
from the outside. cover were made using Vilene 240 craft
Transfer all pleat, snap and dart markers from the pattern template using weight interfacing stitched to the exterior
either pins, chalk or a pencil. It helps to make a small hole in the pattern tem- fabric with a layer of fleece on the back in a
plate where the mark is. Make marks onto reverse side of fabric or interfacing ‘sandwich’. You can use any heavy weight
where possible. interfacing with a layer of batting— or
quilted calico—to add extra body.
RSO means right side out
WSO means wrong side out Step 1
Place cut fabric piece right side up onto
RST means right sides together Magnetic and non- wrong side of corresponding interfacing
Bend the teeth back
WST means wrong sides together magnetic parts using pliers piece. Smooth out wrinkles and with raw
edges of fabric/interfacing even, pin fabric
and interfacing together using pins at right
angles to the raw edge so that they can be
Two backing discs left in while sewing.

Step 2
Magnetic snaps: Fabric wrong side Stitch fabric and interfacing together around
entire outside edge of each piece, about ½”
Make 2 small holes through fabric + interfacing with a hole punch or sharp scissors at (13mm) from the outside edge. Stitch from
position on pattern template. Push teeth of one half of snap through holes from right side, interfacing side to avoid the fabric puckering
so the snap part sits on the fabric side. Put backing disc over teeth on wrong side of or moving as you stitch.
fabric. Bend teeth outward with pliers to secure. Fix other half of snap same way.
© Emma Brennan 2013
 Pattern sheet 1
Upper edge

SUDBURY SADDLE BAG

By Charlie’s Aunt

PIECE Aa)
FRONT/BACK

Tape both front/back templates

together then:
Cut 2 on fold from exterior fabric
Magnetic snap
position
Cut 2 on fold from interfacing
(attach to front Cut 2 on fold from lining fabric
only)

Y Join to template Ab) here X

Z

SUDBURY SADDLE BAG

Join to template Eb) here

Place this edge along a

By Charlie’s Aunt
fold in the fabric

FOLD

PIECE Ea)—STRAP
Tape both strap templates together then:
Cut 2 on fold from exterior fabric
Cut 1 on fold from interfacing
P

Copyright Emma Brennan 2013

P
Join to template Ea) here
Pattern sheet 2

PIECE Eb)—STRAP
Z

Y Join to template Aa) here X

Place this edge along a
fold in the fabric
FOLD

PIECE Ab)
FRONT/BACK

Guideline for attaching

front pocket

Copyright Emma Brennan 2013

 Flap upper edge

SUDBURY SADDLE BAG

By Charlie’s Aunt
PIECE Ca)
FLAP
Tape both flap templates together then:
Cut 2 with WST from exterior fabric
Cut 1 from sew-in interfacing
Cut 1 from fusible interfacing

Join to template Cb) here

W V
Pattern sheet 3

Copyright Emma Brennan 2013

 Join to template Ca) here
W V

PIECE Cb)
FLAP

Magnetic snap
position
(attach to flap
underside only)
Pattern sheet 4

Copyright Emma Brennan 2013

 Pocket upper edge

SUDBURY SADDLE BAG

By Charlie’s Aunt

PIECE D
FRONT POCKET
Cut 1 from exterior fabric
Cut 1 from lining fabric (in reverse)
Cut 1 from fusible interfacing (in reverse)

Pocket lower edge

Copyright Emma Brennan 2013

Pattern sheet 5
Pattern sheet 6

Upper edge

Guideline for
attaching
strap

SUDBURY SADDLE BAG

By Charlie’s Aunt

PIECE Ba)
GUSSET

Tape both gusset templates

together then:
Cut 1 on fold from exterior fabric
Cut 1 on fold from interfacing
Cut 1 on fold lining fabric

S Join to template Bb) here P

Copyright Emma Brennan 2013

 Pattern sheet 7

S Join to template Ba) here P

PIECE Ba)
GUSSET

fold in the fabric

Place this edge along a
FOLD

Copyright Emma Brennan 2013

 Page 16

Suggested Fabrics
This style makes up well in everything from Harris Tweed, to
summer weight linen or cotton used with a very firm interfacing
and a layer of wadding/batting for added body. It can also be
made with two different fabrics. Try making with a contrasting
pocket and flap. The bright plaid bag pictured in this pattern
was made using Harris Tweed from:
www.harristweedandknitwear.co.uk
The black and grey version was made using Welsh woollen
cloth in the Mondo spot design from www.melintregwynt.co.uk

Copyright information
Home sewers can make no more than 10 bags in a year to sell
using this pattern, and strictly no more than 40 bags total from
any combination of Charlie’s Aunt patterns in a year to sell.
Please stick to the rules outlined at www.charliesaunt.com/legal

Contracting with others to mass produce Charlie’s Aunt designs

is strictly prohibited as is the distribution of the pattern pieces
and corresponding instructions. Do not copy the patterns in any
way. Words, diagrams and pictures are covered by copyright.

The main photographs in this pattern are by Phil Morley. Visit

www.phil-morley.co.uk for information.
Copyright Emma Brennan 2013