Sewing Techniques For Lingerie

SEWING TECHNIQUES
FOR LINGERIE
Lingerie is arguably one of
the most complex
categories of clothing.
SEAM EDGE
AND
FINISHES
Seams are the point at
which two pieces of
fabric join together.
TYPES OF SEAMS
Overlocked seam
- overlocked seams are arguably one of the most common type found in
lingerie.
They are one of the quickest and easiest to construct with the stitch ‘sealing’
the raw edge of the fabric in a single operation.
FRENCH SEAM
This type of seam is most commonly found in high end
lingerie, as it requires more accuracy and time.
There is a minimum of two stitch operations required to
create this seam, with additional trimming and pressing to
achieve a good finish.
RAW SEAM
This type of seam has no kind of stitch
finishing.
Fabric is typically joined with a lockstitch and
the raw fabric edges left as they are.
TAPED SEAM
This type of seam is covered by a tape.
The seam allowance (the fabric 'space' required to
stitch two panels together) can either be pressed
open or to one side with the tape applied on top.
Some tapes form a channel that perform a
function, such as underwire and bone
casings (these will enclose the bra
underwires and bones at bra side seams or
basques).
BUTTED SEAM
Butted seams are typically found in very thick fabrics, like
bra foam.
Rather than stitching along a seam allowance, the garment
panels are cut with no seam allowance and are
sewn over to join the two panels.
This type of seam is generally only found in bra foam cups
or heavier weight athletic wear.
It gives a very flat seam finish. In bra cups this type of seam
will typically be taped over, so it can be difficult to spot
SEAM
FINISHES
SELVAGE FINISH
Appropriate for straight seams of
woven fabrics, it requires adjusting
the pattern layout so that the
seam is cut on the selvage.
STITCHED AND PINKED
SEAM FINISH
suitable for firmly woven fabrics.

 It is a quick and easy finish that
prevents raveling and curling.
TURNED AND STITCHED
FINISH
(also called clean-finished)
is suitable for light-to medium-
weight woven fabrics.
ZIGZAG SEAM FINISHES
prevent raveling and are
good for knits, because they
have more than straight
stitched finishes.
BOUND SEAM FINISHES
This finish creates a clean, durable,
visually appealing edge on the inside of
the garment.
BARTACK :
Bar tacks are made at the end of the sewing

works, during finishing
COMFORT ZONES
Refer to the individual preferences and comfort
levels when it comes to choosing, wearing, or
shopping for lingerie.
COMFORT ZONES
Comfort in lingerie can depend on various
factors, including the material, fit, style, and
personal preferences.
DECORATIVE
PIPED SEAMS
A technique that can be used in
lingerie to add visual interest and
enhance the design of the
garment.
PIPING ALONG THE CUP SEAMS
Highlight the contours of the

cups
PIPING ALONG
HEMLINES
It follow the curve of the hem,

creating the finished and
visually attractive edge.
PIPING ON PANTIES
Used along the leg openings or

waistband for a decorative
touch.
PIPING ON BODIES
Used to outline the shape of

the bodice, highlighting the
structure and contours of the
garment
CHOICES FOR HEMS
AND EDGES
TOPSTITCHED
FOLDED EDGE
This the basic and simple method

where the fabric is folded over and
stitched creating a smooth, clean edge.
PICOT EDGE
Created by using a special stitch to

create small loops along the edge of
the fabric.
SCALLOPED EDGE
Created by shaping the fabric into
scalloped-like curves along the edge.
LACE SCALLOPS
The scalloped edge of a lace

represents the decorative festooned
part on the sides, with most of of the
time a waved shape.
THE "LACE TEETH", AND IT'S COMPOSED IN 3
PARTS :
1. The valley of the scallop.

Correspond to an imaginary line,
that we will draw on the bottom of
the scallop, in the lower part.
2. The peak of the scallop. Correspond to an
imaginary line, that we will draw on the edge
of the scallop, in the upper part.
3. The middle of the scallop, correspond,

logically, to the line between the peak and the
valley of the scallop.
BOURDON STITCH / ROLLED
HEM:
An other narrow finishing stitch,
made with a « rolled hem » presser
foot on the basic sewing machine
Thank you for listening!
REFERENCES
https://www.fitiyoo.com/en/lingerie-sewing-tips/lingerie-sewing-glossary/
https://www.thelingerieaddict.com/2018/08/lingerie-construction-seams.html
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/4434133-singer-complete-photo-guide-to-se
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SEWING TECHNIQUES

suitable for firmly woven fabrics.

Bar tacks are made at the end of the sewing

Highlight the contours of the

It follow the curve of the hem,

Used along the leg openings or

Used to outline the shape of

This the basic and simple method

Created by using a special stitch to

The scalloped edge of a lace

1. The valley of the scallop.

3. The middle of the scallop, correspond,

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