TT5024 Woven Fabric R W A Udara Chinthaka, To Mis Jayasuriya

TT5024 woven Fabrics
Student- R W A Udara Chinthaka

University of Moratuwa
Udarachinthaka.uc@gmail.com
Weight ranges of woven fabrics

Fabric weight would be measured as the weight of the fabric in grams per m2. It does affect
the many of the fabric properties. Like drapability, breathability, durability, the way they fit,
fabric stiffness, rigidity, thickness and also thermal properties.
Fabric weight depends on the type of material used to produce it, maybe the weave type
being used, and also the thickness of the fibre. It means it would depend on the fiber type
also.
GSM is an important indicator as a metric measurement to check weight as how many grams
per square meter of the fabric. By this can get an idea about thick ness and the quality of the
fabric for specific usages. According to the GSM count, different type of fabrics has been
divided in to categories.
Category Weight range (gsm) Examples (fabric names)
Very Lightweight 0- 136 100% Viscose, Cheesecloth, Voile,
Charmeuse, Organza, Georgette
Lightweight 137- 237 100% Linen, Chiffon, Chambray, Pin point
oxford
Medium 238- 373 Tafeta, Oxford, Sateen, Velvet (pile), Hand
towelling (honey comb)
Heavy 374- 475 Denim, Canvas, Brocade
Extra Heavy 476- 610 upholstery fabric, Tweed, Coated fabric,
Corduroy
Fabric name- 100% Viscose

Weight category- 47-98 GSM, Very Light weight
Fabric construction- Plain weave
End uses- Blouses, skirts, lose trousers, baby clothing

Features-
• soft
• tender
• well-drapable
• silky lustrous
• quite durable in a dry stat
Examples-
Fabric name- Cheesecloth (cotton 100%)

Weight category- Very Light weight fabric (45-85GSM)
Fabric construction- plain weave (loose structure)
End uses- bookbinding, surgical dressing, Cheese wrapping
Features -
• Airy texture
• soft
• absorbency
• strengthen
Examples-
Fabric name- Voile (100% cotton/ cotton+ poly blend)

Weight category- Very lightweight fabric (80-100GSM)
Fabric construction- Plain weave (similar to basket weave construction)
End uses- Summer scarf, Night gown, lingerie, Tunics

Examples-
Fabric name- Charmeuse (100% silk)

Weight category- Very Light weight fabric (60-81gsm)
Fabric construction- satin weave (more weft yarn floating)
End uses- lingerie, evening gowns, blouses, (especially garments with a bias cut), elegant
wraps, dressy shirts and blouses, ties, handkerchiefs, costumes,
Examples-
Fabric name- Organza (traditionally 100% silk, primarily 100% Nylon or Polyester)
Weight category- Very Lightweight fabric (24- 50gsm)
Fabric construction-Plain weave
End uses- sheer curtains, table runners, event decoration, accessories for seating, sarees
Examples-
Fabric name- Chiffon (silk/cotton/rayon/ nylon/ polyester)

Weight category- Lightweight fabric (150-200 gsm)
Fabric construction- Plain weave (mesh like fabric)
End uses- Sarees, Dupattas, Blouses, Home decor, Scarves

Examples-
Fabric name- Pin point Oxford (100%)

Weight category-Lightweight fabric (150-200 gsm)
Fabric construction- Basket weave (tighter with finer yarn)
End uses- formal shirts, pants, semi formal shirts, casual shirts
Examples-
Fabric name- Chambray (100% cotton)

Weight category- Lightweight fabric (150gsm)
Fabric construction- Plain weave (with dyed warp yarn and a white filling yarn)
End uses- pants, shorts, light jackets, and fabric-topped shoes, Jumpsuits
Examples-
Fabric name- velvet (shaggy velvet) (originally silk, primarily nylon polyester)
Weight category- Mediumweight (250-300gsm)
Fabric construction- Pile weave (plain weave)
End uses- curtains, throw pillows, and home decors, insulative blankets, Evening wears
Examples-
Fabric name- Hand towelling fabric (40% polyester + 60% cotton)
Weight category- Medium (240-250gsm)
Fabric construction-Honey comb weave
End uses- hand towels, glass cloths, dispensed roller towels, bath mats,
Examples-
Fabric name- Sateen (Cotton/ Silk)
Weight category- medium weight (250gsm)
Fabric construction- Sateen is a fabric made using a satin weave structure but made with
spun yarns instead of filament
End uses- dresses, skirts, jackets, sheets, household decor

Examples-
Fabric name- Denim (cotton 100%)
Weight category- heavy weight (406 gsm)
Fabric construction- Twill weave – 3x1, 2x1(rugged tightly woven)
End uses- jacket, pant, shirt, denim wine bags, denim pencil case, denim apron, denim
pillows, denim quilt
Examples-
Fabric name-Brocade (silk, cotton, polyester)

Weight category-Heavey weight (380-400gsm)
Fabric construction- Jacquard (brocade) weave, Ornet shuttle woven
End uses- pants, skirts, jackets, Upholstery

Examples-
Fabric name- Corduroy
Weight category- Extra Heavey weight (500gsm)
Fabric construction- Plain (pile) weave, three separate yarns woven together
End uses- breeches, coats, hunting apparel, millinery, slacks, jackets, and trousers
Examples-
Fabric name-Tweed (wool+cotton) , (wool+ rayon)
Weight category- Extra Heavy weight (500gsm)
Fabric construction- Twill weave (roughly woven)
End uses- Hunting jackets, Blazers, Coats, Military jackets, Trench coats, Women’s coats
Pants, Suit jackets
Examples-
Derivatives of plain weave- woven fabrics
Features or Characteristics of plain weave
• Simplest weave of all weaves.
• maximum binding points.
• can be produced in a minimum repeat size of 2×2.
• Fabric thickness is limited.
• 1 up 1 down is the order of interlacement of warp and weft yarn.
• The fabric produced is relatively stronger.
plain weave has three derivatives; they are

1.warp rib,
2.weft rib
3.matt rib
Warp rib:
When the plain weave extended in warp direction warp rib weave produced. It gives a cord or rib effect in
weft direction. It is vertical extension of plain weave.
Sri Lankan products- side purse, cotton cushion covers, wall hangings
Features of Warp Rib:
Following features are possess by warp rib weave
• It is a vertical extension of plain weave.

• Number of warps is 2 and number of wefts is sum of weave number.
• It gives a cord effect in weft direction.
• Finer yarns are for warp.
• EPI is more than PPI
• Coarser yarns used in weft.
• Two or more weft yarns pass above or below the warp yarns.
• It is mostly use for poplin fabric.
Weft Rib:
When the plain weave extends in warp direction warp rib weave produced. It gives a cord or rib effect in
weft direction. It is vertical extension of plain weave.
Sri lankan products- Matts, Purse, Sarees, pouch
Features of Weft Rib:

Following features are possess by weft rib weave
• It is a horizontal extension of plain weave.

• Number of wefts is 2 and number of warps is sum of weave number.
• It gives a cord effect in warp direction.
• Finer yarns used for weft.
• PPI is more than EPI
• Coarser yarns used in warp.
• Two or more warp yarns pass above or below the weft yarns.
• It is mostly use for producing blankets, hair cord fabrics.
Matt Rib or Hopsack weave:

When the plain weave extended in both warp and weft direction then a matt rib weave produced. This is
call as basket or hopsack weave. It is a square weave.
SL products- Toys, dress
Features of Matt Rib:

Following features are possess by matt rib weave
• It is a extension of plain weave in both warp and weft directions.

• It is a heavier fabric
• Matt weave fabric is more resistant to tearing
• More no of threads per inch
• It gives a smooth surface and more flexible fabric.
• It is mostly use for producing blankets, hair cord fabrics.

TT5024 Woven Fabric R W A Udara Chinthaka, To Mis Jayasuriya

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TT5024 woven Fabrics

Student- R W A Udara Chinthaka

Weight ranges of woven fabrics

Fabric name- 100% Viscose

End uses- Blouses, skirts, lose trousers, baby clothing

Fabric name- Cheesecloth (cotton 100%)

Fabric name- Voile (100% cotton/ cotton+ poly blend)

End uses- Summer scarf, Night gown, lingerie, Tunics

Fabric name- Charmeuse (100% silk)

Fabric name- Chiffon (silk/cotton/rayon/ nylon/ polyester)

End uses- Sarees, Dupattas, Blouses, Home decor, Scarves

Fabric name- Pin point Oxford (100%)

Fabric name- Chambray (100% cotton)

End uses- dresses, skirts, jackets, sheets, household decor

Fabric name-Brocade (silk, cotton, polyester)

End uses- pants, skirts, jackets, Upholstery

plain weave has three derivatives; they are

• It is a vertical extension of plain weave.

Features of Weft Rib:

• It is a horizontal extension of plain weave.

Matt Rib or Hopsack weave:

SL products- Toys, dress

Features of Matt Rib:

• It is a extension of plain weave in both warp and weft directions.

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