Polyster(PES) :

Danier- The thickness of Polyster yarn

1 Denier = 1gm of PES moved pull to 9000mtrs
2gm of PES moved pull to 9000mtrs
50gm of PES moved pull to 9000mtrs
150gm of PES moved pull to 9000mtrs = 150D= more coarse yarn
Filament = continuous fiber
Staple= Staple fiber= having more pore in this fiber like -----

Denier is a unit of measurement that is used to determine the fiber thickness of individual
threads or filaments used in the creation of textiles and fabrics. Fabrics with a high denier count
tend to be thick, sturdy, and durable. Fabrics with a low denier count tend to be sheer, soft, and
silky.
In terms of fills, in order to be considered a microfiber the fiber must be less than 1 denier,
which is extremely fine. This gives the fill its airy weight, downy feel, and soft, silky texture. In
comparison, a human hair is 20 denier, whereas Standard Fibers microfibers are typically 0.9
denier or less.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Units_of_textile_measurement#Thread_count

Units of textile measurement

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Textile fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics are measured in a multiplicity of units.

A fiber, a single filament of natural material, such as cotton, linen or wool, or artificial
material such as nylon, polyester, metal or mineral fiber, is measured in terms of linear
mass density, the weight of a given length of fiber. Various units are used to refer to the
measurement of a fiber, such as: the denier and tex (linear mass density of fibers), super S
(fineness of wool fiber), worsted count, woolen count, cotton count (or Number English
Ne), Number metric (Nm) and yield (the reciprocal of denier and tex).

A yarn, a spun agglomeration of fibers used for knitting, weaving or sewing, is measured
in terms of cotton count and yarn density.

Thread made from two threads plied together, each consisting of three yarns

Thread, usually consisting of multiple yarns plied together producing a long, thin strand
used in sewing or weaving, is measured in the same units as yarn.

Fabric, cloth typically produced by weaving, knitting or knotting textile fibers, yarns or
threads, is measured in units such as the momme, thread count (a measure of the
coarseness or fineness of fabric), ends per inch (e.p.i) and picks per inch (p.p.i).

Contents

1 Units of measure for fibers

o 1.1 Denier
o 1.2 Tex
o 1.3 S or super S number

o 1.4 Worsted count

o 1.5 Yield

2 Yarn and thread

o 2.1 Cotton count
o 2.2 Yarn length
o 2.3 Thread
o 2.4 Yarn Diameter conversion

3 Fabric
o 3.1 Grams per square meter / GSM of fabric
o 3.2 Mommes
o 3.3 Thread count

3.3.1 Industry standard

o 3.4 Ends per inch

o 3.5 Picks per inch

4 Quality
o 4.1 Martindale

5 References

6 Bibliography

7 External links

Units of measure for fibers

The linear density of a fiber is commonly measured in units of denier or tex. Traditional units
include worsted count, cotton count and yield. Tex is more likely to be used in Canada and
Continental Europe, while denier remains more common in the United States and United

Kingdom. The International System of Units uses kilogram per metre for linear densities; in
some contexts, the tex unit is used instead.

Denier
Denier /dnjr/ or den (abbreviated D), a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers, is
defined as the mass in grams per 9000 meters.[1] The denier is based on a natural reference: a
single strand of silk is approximately one denier; a 9000-meter strand of silk weighs about one
gram. The term denier comes from the French denier, a coin of small value (worth 112 of a sou).
Applied to yarn, a denier was held to be equal in weight to 124 of an ounce. The term microdenier
is used to describe filaments that weigh less than one gram per 9000 meters.
One can distinguish between filament and total measurements in deniers. Both are defined as
above, but the first relates to a single filament of fiber commonly known as denier per
filament (DPF) whereas the second relates to a yarn.
Broader terms such as 'fine' may be applied, either because the overall yarn is fine or because
fibers within this yarn are thin. A 75-denier yarn would be considered fine even if it contains
only a few fibers, such as thirty 2.5-denier fibers, but a heavier yarn, such as 150 denier, is only
considered fine if its constituent fibers are individually as thin as one denier.[1]
The following relationship applies to straight, uniform filaments:
DPF = total denier / quantity of uniform filaments
The denier system of measurement is used on two- and single-filament fibers. Some common
calculations are as follows:
1 denier

= 1 gram per 9000 meters[2]

= 0.11 milligrams per meter

In practice, measuring 9000 meters is both time-consuming and unrealistic. Generally a sample
of 900 meters is weighed, and the result is multiplied by ten to obtain the denier weight.

A fiber is generally considered a microfiber if it is one denier or less.

A one-denier polyester fiber has a diameter of about ten micrometers.

In tights and pantyhose, the linear density of yarn used in the manufacturing process
determines the opacity of the article in the following categories of commerce: ultra sheer
(below 10 denier), sheer (10 to 30 denier), semi-opaque (30 to 40 denier), opaque (40 to
70 denier) and thick opaque (70 denier or higher).[3]

For single fibers, instead of weighing, a machine called a vibroscope is used. A known length of
the fiber (usually 20mm) is set to vibrate, and its fundamental frequency measured, allowing the
calculation of the mass and thus the titer.

Tex
Tex is a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers, yarns and thread and is defined as
the mass in grams per 1000 meters.[4] The unit code is "tex". The most commonly used unit is
actually the decitex (abbreviated dtex), which is the mass in grams per 10,000 meters. When
measuring objects that consist of multiple fibers, the term "filament tex" is sometimes used,
referring to the mass in grams per 1000 meters of a single filament.
Tex is used for measuring fiber size in many products, including cigarette filters, optical cable,
yarn and fabric.

S or super S number
Main article: Super S or S number
Not a true unit of measure, S or super S number is an index of the fineness of the wool fiber and
is most commonly seen as a label on wool apparel, wool fabric, and yarn.

Worsted count

Yarn spinning factory

Worsted count (or spinning count) is an indirect measure of the fineness of the fiber in a worsted
wool yarn expressed as the number of 560-yard[5] (1 yard = 0.9144 meters) lengths (hanks) of
worsted yarn that a pound (0.45359237 kilograms) of wool yields. The finer the wool, the more
yarn and the higher the count. It has been largely replaced by direct measures.

Yield
Similar to tex and denier, yield is a term that helps describe the linear density of a roving of
fibers. However, unlike tex and denier, yield is the inverse of linear density and is usually
expressed in yards/lb.
Tex (g/km)
550

Yield (yards/lb)
900

735

675

1100

450

1200

413

2000

250

2200

225

2400

207

4400

113

Yarn and thread

Cotton count

Cotton count is another measure of linear density. It is the number of hanks (840 yd or
770 m) of skein material that weigh 1 pound (0.45 kg). Under this system, the higher the
number, the finer the yarn. In the United States cotton counts between 1 and 20 are
referred to as coarse counts. A regular single-knit T-shirt can be between 20 and 40 count;
fine bed sheets are usually in the range of 40 to 80 count. The number is now widely used
in the staple fiber industry.

Hank: a length of 7 leas or 840 yards (770 m)

One lea 120 yards (110 m)

Yarn length
l/m = 1693 lm/Nec m/kg, where l/m is the yarn length in meters, lm/Nec is the English cotton
count and m/kg is the yarn weight in kilograms.
English cotton count (Nec) is an indirect counting system, that is, the higher the number the finer
the yarn.

Thread: a length of 54 inches (1.4 m) (the circumference of a warp beam)

Bundle: usually 10 pounds (4.5 kg)

Lea: a length of 80 threads or 120 yards (110 m)[6]

To convert denier to cotton count: lm/Nec = 5315//den, where lm/Nec is the cotton count and /den
is the density in denier.
To convert tex to cotton count: lm/Nec = 590.5//tex, where lm/Nec is the cotton count and /tex is
the density in tex.

Thread
Thread is a cotton yarn measure, equal to 54 inches (1.4 m).

Yarn Diameter conversion

Denier
50
75
100
150
200
300
400
500
700
1000
1500
2000

Approximate yarn measurement comparison

m/g
Tex
Worsted
Cotton
Woolen (run)
180
5.6
160
106
56
120
8.3
106
72
37
90
11.1 80
53
28
60
16.6 53
35
19
45
22.2 40
27
14
30
33.4 27
18
9.3
22.5 44.4 20
13
7.0
18
55.5 16
11
5.6
12.9 77.7 11.4
7.6
4.0
9
111
8.0
5.3
2.8
6
166
5.3
3.5
1.9
4.5
222
4.0
2.7
1.4

Linen (lea)
298
198
149
99
74
50
37
30
2
15
10
7

Fabric
Because a fabric is sheet-like (i.e., 2-dimensional), it is measured in terms of surface density or
in terms of the number of threads involved in a piece of fabric of given size.

Grams per square meter / GSM of fabric

In the International System of Units, surface density is measured in kilograms per square meter.
For fabrics, grams per square meter (GSM) is a more practical unit of measure.

Mommes
Mommes (mm), traditionally used to measure silk fabrics, the weight in pounds of a piece of
fabric if it were sized 45 inches by 100 yards. One momme = 4.340 grams per square meter; 8
mommes is approximately 1 ounce per square yard or 35 grams per square meter.
The momme is based on the standard width of silk of 45 inches wide (though silk is regularly
produced in 55-inch widths, and, uncommonly, in even larger widths).
The usual range of momme weight for different weaves of silk are:

Habutai5 to 16 mm

Chiffon6 to 8 mm (can be made in double thickness, i.e. 12 to 16 mm)

Crepe de Chine12 to 16 mm

Gauze3 to 5 mm

Raw silk35 to 40 mm (heavier silks appear more 'wooly')

Organza4 to 6 mm

Charmeuse12 to 30 mm

The higher the weight in mommes, the more durable the weave, and the more suitable it is for
heavy-duty use. And, the heavier the silk, the more opaque it becomes. This can vary even
between the same kind of silk. For example, lightweight charmeuse is translucent when used in
clothing, but 30-momme charmeuse is opaque.

Thread count

Image showing how to determine the number of twists per inch in a piece of yarn
Thread count or threads per inch (TPI)[7] is a measure of the coarseness or fineness of fabric. It
is measured by counting the number of threads contained in one square inch of fabric or one
square centimeter, including both the length (warp) and width (weft) threads. The thread count is
the number of threads counted along two sides (up and across) of the square inch, added together.
It is used especially in regard to cotton linens such as bed sheets, and has been known to be used
in the classification of towels.

Industry standard
Thread count is often used as a measure of fabric quality, so that "standard" cotton thread counts
are around 150 while good-quality sheets start at 180 and a count of 200 or higher is considered
percale. Some, but not all, of the extremely high thread counts (typically over 500) tend to be
misleading as they usually count the individual threads in "plied" yarns (a yarn that is made by
twisting together multiple finer threads). For marketing purposes, a fabric with 250 two-ply
yarns in both the vertical and horizontal direction could have the component threads counted to a
1000 thread count although "according to the National Textile Association (NTA), which cites
the international standards group ASTM, accepted industry practice is to count each thread as
one, even threads spun as two- or three-ply yarn. The Federal Trade Commission in an August
2005 letter to NTA agreed that consumers 'could be deceived or misled' by inflated thread counts.
[8]
In 2002, ASTM proposed a definition for "thread count"[9] that has been called "the industry's
first formal definition for thread count".[10] A minority on the ASTM committee argued for the
higher yarn count number obtained by counting each single yarn in a plied yarn and cited as
authority the provision relating to woven fabric in the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United
States, which states each ply should be counted as one using the "average yarn number."[11]

Ends per inch

Ends per inch (EPI or e.p.i.) is the number of warp threads per inch of woven fabric.[7][12] In
general, the higher the ends per inch, the finer the fabric is. The current fashion is to wear Tshirts with a higher thread count, such as soft and comfortable "30 single" tee shirt that has 30
threads per inch as contrasted to the standard T-shirt with an 18 thread count per inch.
Ends per inch is very commonly used by weavers who must use the number of ends per inch in
order to pick the right reed to weave with. The number of ends per inch varies on the pattern to
be woven and the thickness of the thread. Plain weaves generally use half the number of warps
per inch for the number of ends per inch, whereas denser weaves like a twill weave will use a
higher ratio like two thirds of the number of warps per inch. Finer threads require more threads
per inch than thick ones, and thus result in a higher number of ends per inch.
The number of ends per inch in a piece of woven cloth varies depending on the stage of
manufacture. Before the cloth is woven, the warp has a certain number of ends per inch, which is
directly related to the size reed being used. After weaving the number of ends per inch will
increase, and it will increase again after being washed. This increase in the number of ends per
inch (and picks per inch) and shrinkage in the size of the fabric is known as the take-up. The
take-up is dependent on many factors, including the material and how tightly the cloth is woven.
Tightly woven fabric shrinks more (and thus the number of ends per inch increases more) than
loosely woven fabric, as do more elastic yarns and fibers.

Picks per inch

Picks per inch/Inch (or p.p.i.) is the number of weft threads per inch of woven fabric.[12] A pick
is a single weft thread,[13] hence the term. In general, the higher the picks per inch, the finer the
fabric is.

Quality
Martindale
Main article: Martindale (unit)
The unit Martindale quantifies a textile's resistance to abrasion when used for upholstery.

References
1.
Haynes, Williams (1946). "XVII: New Fibres: New Fabrics". This Chemical Age. London:
Secker and Warburg. p. 217.
"1 denier - Wolfram|Alpha". www.wolframalpha.com. Retrieved 2015-10-02.
All About Denier "All About Hosiery Denier".
Collier 1970, p. 3
Collier 1970, p. 74
Curtis 1921, p. Cotton count
Schwalbe Tires: What does carcass EPI mean?
Federal Trade Commission Letter retrieved from NTA website February 9, 2009
Revised Test Method Further Defines Fabric Count
Hometextilestoday.com "Down For the (Thread) Count"
Down For the (Thread) Count 25 October 2004 Home Textiles Today
Curtis 1921
1.

"Pick." The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989.

Bibliography

Collier, Ann M (1970), A Handbook of Textiles, Pergamon Press, p. 258, ISBN 0-08018057-4, ISBN 0-08-018056-6, retrieved January 2009

Curtis, H P (1921), "Glossary of Textile Terms", Arthur Roberts Black Book.

(Manchester: Marsden & Company, Ltd. 1921), retrieved 2009-01-11

External links

Textiles Intelligence Glossary

Textile Yarn Count Conversion Calculator

Yarn Count Conversion Calculation

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