NAgina Textile
NAgina Textile
NAgina Textile
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Prepared by: Asif Nawaz ELLCOT SPINNING MILLS LTD
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N A GI N A
Sr.
No. CONTENTS PAGE No.
NAGINA GROUP
1 ACKNOWLEDGMENT 3
2 ELLCOT Spinning Mills LTD. 4
3 RAW MATERIAL COTTON 5 → 10
4 RAW MATERIAL POLYESTER 11 → 12
5 MIXING 13 → 16
6 BLOW ROOM 17 → 27
7 CARDING 28 → 30
8 COMBING 31 → 33
9 DRAW FRAME 34 → 41
10 SIMPLEX 42 → 46
11 RING FRAME 47 → 50
12 AUTO CONE 51 → 54
13 SPIN PLAN 55 → 58
14 TESTING AND QUALITY CONTROL 59 → 76
15 PACKING 77 → 79
16 EXCISE DEPARTMENT 80 → 82
17 MACHINERY LIST U1,U2 83 → 85
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First of all I would like to thank Mr. Inam Ul Haq Sabbir G.M.
Marketing from the bottom of my heart for giving me exceptional
opportunity of learning the process at the mills site.
Corporate Profile
Established in 1991, Ellcot Spinning Mills Limited operates state of the art spinning
machinery comprising of 54,528 Spindles with related process machines. The company
produces high quality yarns of 100% cotton, synthetic, and polyester / cotton blends.
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Both carded and combed Yarns for weaving and knitting application are produced in
many blends. Ellcot Spinning Mills Limited high quality yarns are used to produce
apparel fabrics, sheeting, toweling, canvas, and Knitted products.
Products
• 10/1 to 60/1 polyester / cotton blend yarns both carded and combed.
• 30 NE to 80 NE 100% combed cotton yarns manufactured from U.S.A, Giza 86,
and contamination free cotton.
Core yarns with "Lycra ®" from Dupont. Count ranges from 30/1 to 40/1 for both
carded and combed yarns in a variety of deniers.
What is Cotton?
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Cotton, belonging to a family that includes hibiscus and okra, produces a natural
vegetable fiber used in the manufacture of cloth. Cotton produces sweet nectar that
attracts a variety of destructive insect pests, including the boll weevil,
bollworm, armyworm, and the red spider. In addition to insect pests, there is also a
very destructive fungus, called the wilt, which attacks the root system of the
cotton plant.
The English name which began to be used circa 1400, derives from the Arabic (al) qutn
ُقطْن, meaning cotton.
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Fiber Thickness:
The thickness of the fiber is termed as fiber fineness which is numerically represented
as micronaire value. The lesser the value the finer would be the micronaire (mic). Fiber
fineness is one of the most important fiber properties and is expressed as
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Fuzz Fiber:
The longer cotton fibers when detached from the seed are called lint. The undergrowth
of fuzz which develops at the tip of the seed is called linters. These are coarse and very
short in length.
Staple Length:
Staple length is one of the most important characteristics of cotton. It defines the
spinability of the fiber. Staple length has been basis for trading the cotton more then a
century. In this regards, cotton is divided into three large categories:
(LONG STAPLE):
Long staple, this measures 28-34 mms
(MEDIUM STAPLE):
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Uniformity Index:
Length uniformity or uniformity ratio is determined as: -
"A ratio between the mean length and the upper half mean length of the fibers and is
expressed as a percentage".
Uniformity Index
Below 77 Very Low
77 – 79 Low
80 – 82 Medium
83 – 85 High
Above 85 Very High
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Grade:
The grade is given by the external appearance of the cotton and is determined on the
basis of the major or minor brightness of the fibers, by its more or less white color, by
the major or minor presence of particles of the leaf or other extraneous substances.
TRASH:
Trash content is assessed from scanning the cotton sample surface with a video camera
and calculating the percentage of the surface area occupied by trash particles. The
values of trash content should be within the range from 0 to 1.6%. Trash content is
highly correlated to leaf grade of the sample.
COLOR:
The color is another important element of evaluation of cotton. In fact, from the major
or minor whiteness of the cotton depend on the facility of later workings and the
possibility of obtaining good yarns. Natural colour of cotton highly influences the
chemical processing and dyability of the finished product.
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PROPERTIES:
Cotton, as a natural cellulose fiber, has a lot of characteristics, such as:
• Comfortable Soft hand
• Good absorbency
• Color retention
• Prints well
• Machine-wash able
• Good strength
• Easy to handle and sew
Polyester:
Ingredients:
MATERIAL OR COMPONENT %
Poly (Ethylene-Terephthalate) 99.57
Textile Finish 00.13
Bale Stacking:
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Maximum stacking limit 5 high with bales horizontally placed on an even floor and
vertically aligned.
FIRE:
It remains the most lethal Hazard to Life & Property. Hence Training supported by a
strong system of fire safely management should be in place with fire exits clearly
marked, fire extinguishers placed properly and checked periodically.
BLENDING
With Viscose
The normal blending practice is to make a sandwich blend with viscose in the blow
room. Both viscose and TERYLENE bales should be checked for moisture content on
opening, especially if there is any possibility that accidental welling might have
occurred. Each fibre should be opened out and thoroughly dried before processing.
Drying of wet fibre should not be carried out in direct sunlight.
The maximum number of bales should be used to make the sandwich blend. A
minimum of 8 bales of TERYLENE is recommended. The viscose component should
be pre-opened before blending with TERYLENE. A sandwich stack should be prepared
near the blenders in order to avoid mixing with other fibers. If possible mixing is
allowed to condition in the open area before processing.
The maximum available number of blenders should be operated to feed the sandwich
stack instead of one blender in order to improve blend ratio.Soft waste should be
dispersed evenly throughout the sandwich stack. Re-feeding of clean waste should be
on a regular basis and at a low level.
With Cotton
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The normal blending practice is to blend cotton at drawing. Both cotton and polyester
are opened and carded separately. Cotton is normally combed in order to remove any
excess of short fibers before blending with polyester. Cotton can be blended with
TERYLENE whether straight after combing or after post comber drawing. The latter
sequence is preferred in order to improve yarn quality. All the required number of
cotton strands should be blended at the 1st stage of draw frame blending followed by
two more passage of drawing. It is recommended to reed eight ends for improved
doubling and blending will be found to give satisfactory results.
MIXING
Bale Management:
In a particular lot
• Micronaire range of the cotton bales used should be same for all the mixings of
a lot
• Micronaire average of the cotton bales used should be same for all the mixings
of a lot
• Range of color of cotton bales used should be same for all the mixings of a lot
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• Average of color of cotton bales used should be same for all the mixings of a lot
It is not advisable to mix the yarn made of out of two different shipments of same
cotton. For example, the first shipment of West African cotton is in January and the
second shipment is in March, it is not advisable to mix the yarn made out of these two
different shipments. If there is no shade variation after dyeing, then it can be mixed.
Stack mixing is the best way of doing the mixing compared to using automatic bale
openers which picks up the material from 30to 40 bales depending on the length of the
machine and bale size, provided stack mixing is done perfectly. Improper stack mixing
will lead to SHADE VARIATION problem. Stack mixing with Bale opener takes care
of short term blending and two mixers in series takes care of long term blending.
Why?
• Tuft sizes can be as low as 10 grams and it is the best way of opening the
material (nep creation will be less, care has to be taken to reduce recycling in
the inclined lattice)
• contaminations can be removed before mixing is made
• The raw material gets acclimatized to the required temp and R.H. %, since it is
allowed to stay in the room for more than 24 hours and the fibre is opened, the
fiber gets conditioned well.
Disadvantages:
• more labour is required
• more space is required
• mixing may not be 100% homogeneous( can be overcome by installing double
mixers)
Bale Arrangement
Let us assume that there are five different micronaires and five different colors in the
cotton, 50 bales are to be use in the mixing. 5 to 10 groups should be made by grouping
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the bales in a mixing so that each group will have average micronaire and average color
as that of the overall mixing.
The position of a bale for micronaire and color should be fixed for the group and it
should repeat in the same order for all the groups.
It is easy to optimize the process parameters in blow room and cards.
Drafting faults will be less.
Dyed cloth appearance will be better because of uniform dye pickup etc.
It is advisable to use single cotton in a mixing, provided the length, strength micronaire,
maturity coefficient and trash content of the cotton will be suitable for producing the
required counts. Automatic bale opener is a must if more than two cottons are used in
the mixing, to avoid SHADE VARIATION problem.
Manual Mixing:
The cotton mixing is done by ladies and boys workers. They open the materials from
large tuft to small tufts and mix two different cottons by different ratios which ordered
by laboratory. The polyester mixing is done manually; usually five bales are mixed at a
time. The different useable wastes are mixed with cotton and polyester i.e. lap cut, card
fly, pnemafil, roving etc different proportion as advised by the laboratory incharge.
In cotton mixing seventeen to nineteen bales are stuff in the plucker and 10 Kg lab cut
and sliver added in the raw material. A worker is assigned to that plucker to operate and
manually remove the foreign material from the plucker.The plucker sends the material
in the next room where workers further remove the foreign material and also recheck
the cotton coming from the vetal scan. After that raw material is sent in blow room
through inclined lattice.
10/S PC 52/48 (WASTE)
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Now 324 kg polyester and cotton is to be added in that 476 kg of waste (pnemafil,
roving) with 57% polyester and 43% cotton because in the waste polyester was 47%
and cotton 53% so
Polyester (57%) 324x0.57= 184.68 Kg
Cotton (43%) 324x0.43= 139.32 Kg
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Blow Room
Basic operations in the Blow Room:
• Opening
• Cleaning
• Micro dust removal
• Foreign matter removal
• Uniform feed to the carding machine
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• Due to machine harvesting, cotton contains more and more impurities, which
furthermore are shattered by hard ginning. Therefore cleaning is always an
important basic operation.
• Traditional methods use more number of machines to open and clean natural
fibers.
• Mechanical action on fibers causes some deterioration on yarn quality,
particularly in terms of naps. Moreover it is true that the staple length of cotton
can be significantly shortened.
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• Air streams are often used in the latest machine sequence, to separate fibers from
trash particles.
= 11,485 kg/day/15cards
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=24,696 lbs/day/14cards
=11,202 kg/day/14cards
As 0.5% waste is removed in card so the input of cards will be,
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Cotton Flow
Chart
Auto Plucker
Automatic
Blender
B 11
Parcopine
Vetal
Scan
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Polyester Flow
Chart
Conveyor
Lattice
Automatic Automatic
Blender Blender
B 50
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B 50
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ELLCOT SPINNING MILLS LTD
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Auto Plucker:
Model A002D
Manufacturer China
Working:
It is a machine used for the purpose of bale opening. Bale can be arranged as it is inside
the machine or small tuft can put after opening the bale manually. Three motors are
used in this machine. One motor for beater, second for to rotate the carriage and third
one is used for lowering or lifting the carriage.
B11 (Uniclean):
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The uniclean B11 is an efficient cleaning and de-dusting machine, which is used
immediately after bale opening. Cotton and other natural fibers such as flax can be
cleaned and de-dusted gently.
1. Application:
This machine is combined with Condenser. It's mainly used to treating C type fibres. Fibres are
carded and opened by the machine.
Vetal Scan:
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General View
Introduction:
The Cotton is scanned for the polypropylene impurities in the POLYSENSO Zone and
passes through the CAMERA Zone where it is scanned for color impurities and signals
the Nozzles to eject them by Airjets.
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The Vetal Scan - Cotton Contamination Cleaning Machine analyzes the cotton moving in the
illuminated zone by the Fluorescent tubes. The detected contamination is ejected out by the
Nozzle driven by the Electro Valve using the compressed air. The continuous running
contamination collection fan sucks the ejected material and thrown into the collection bag.
COLOR CONTAMINATION
Line Scan cameras detect the color contamination and effectively eject them WHITE /
TRANSPARENT POLYPROPYLENE CONTAMINATION
Improved detection and elimination of White / Transparent contamination has been
effectively achieved through the SONIC technology.
SCUTCHER:
Application:
This machine is used for dealing with raw cotton of various grades, staple fibre and shorter
than 76mm mid fibre, comes out in laps which are to treated further by carding machine.
Generally, this machine is used in combination with double Hopper feeder.
Production of Scutcher:
Production 13 oz/yard
Speed of Shell Roller 11 rpm
Shell Roller dia 9”
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Speed = 3.14 x 11 x 9
36
Speed = 8.63 yards/min
= 7067.97 lbs/day
= 7067.97 x 3 lbs/day/3-scutcher
= 21203.91 lbs/day/3-scutcher
= 9618 kg/day/3-scutcher
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The Fine cleaner B 50 is suitable for all cotton provenances and man-made fibers with a
staple length of up to 65 mm. The material is conveyed with a fan into the lamella
chute, where the feeding distributes the material throughout the entire width of the
chute. Under the pressure of the fan the material is compressed into a Sheet. The air is
drawn off through the lamella and led into the filtration plant via the screening drum.
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The screening and blind drum draws the sheet towards the feeding cylinders. These grip
the sheet and lead it into the beating radius of the opening cylinder.
The opening cylinder breaks the sheet up into tufts, which are trailed over the grid
knives and combing segments. This causes the impurities to be separated from the
fibers and removed. The waste is suctioned off in intervals.
CARDING
INTRODUCTION
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"Card is the heart of the spinning mill" and "Well carded is half spun" are two
proverbs of the experts. These proverbs inform the immense significance of carding in
the spinning process. High production in carding to economies the process leads to
reduction in yarn quality. Higher the production, the more sensitive becomes the
carding operation and the greater danger of a negative influence on quality. The
technological change that has taken place in the process of carding is remarkable. Latest
machines achieve the production rate of 60 - 100 kgs / hr.
Lap feeding:
• Linear density of the lap is very good and it is easier to maintain (uniformity).
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• Auto levelers are not required, hence investment cost and maintenance cost is
less.
• Transportation of lap needs more manual efforts (more labour)
• Lap run out is an additional source of fault, as it should be replaced by a new lap
• More good fiber loss during lap change
• More load on the taker-in, as laps are heavily compressed
Chute feeding:
• High performance in carding due to high degree of openness of feed web.
• Labour requirement is less due to no lap transportation and lap change in cards.
• Chute feeding is the only solution for high production cards.
• Linear density of the web fed to the card is not as good as lap.
• Auto leveler is a must, hence investment cost and maintenance cost is more.
Trash and fly are removed from the processing elements of the machine by the card
cleaning system, and are transported from the machine by a central dust extraction
system.
Sliver weight is continuously regulated by the auto leveler system, and the completed
sliver is packaged into cans by the coiler.
An automatic can changer may be fitted.
The control system is based on a Card Controller which monitors machine operation
and provides operator control and safety interlocks.
Production parameters and other control settings are selected and monitored by means
of the Card Manager, which also displays production data.
PRODUCTION Of CARD:
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140 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 67
= -------------------------------------- X 0.80
7000 x 100
= 16.88 bags/day/card
Production of polyester cards:
150 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70
= -------------------------------------- X 0.80
7000 x 100
= 18.89 bags/day/card
COMBING
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For high quality yarns the sliver is combed after carding to make the fibers more
parallel and remove the short fibers. Combing is the process which is used to upgrade
the raw material. It influences the following yarn quality
• Yarn Evenness
• Yarn Strength
• Yarn Cleanness
• Yarn Smoothness
• Visual Appearance
• The basic operation is to improve the mean length by removing short fibers.
• Because of combing fiber parallelization increase.
• Micronaire value after combing is less because the short fibers is removed.
• Number of fibers per cross section increased so the strength of sliver also
increased.
• Combing % is 15%-25% depending on the short fiber content.
• Combed yarn needs less twist then the carded yarn.
• But extra cost, machinery, staff and loss of material.
The combing machine is composed of eight heads which produce sliver. Each
combing head is composed of feeder roller which holds the web and rotate it with out
varying the structure.
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The rollers rotate slowly with continuous drive and bring the web forward to the
combing unit made up of nippers which holds the fiber during the comb. The circular
comb is no doubt the most important device in the machine, it is composed of a circular
sector covered with needles and the density of the needles differ from the first lines to
the last line. The circular comb turns quickly in a positive direction, penetrating the tuft
of fiber to comb, removes the fibers that are not clasped by the nippers, and parallelized
the others. The circular comb completes around 200-250 rpm.
The fibers which are clasped in the nipper again combed by the liner comb. This is
made up of a bar covered with very dense needles positioned vertically. The task of
liner comb is to straightened the fibers and remove the curl, letting past those
successfully combed and holding back those which will later be combed. These fibers
are later doubled by a drawing aggregate of four on top of five cylinders to make two
slivers which are taken to the collection cans.
Production
P
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G X (1 - 100) X N
Kg/H = ---------------------------------- X EFFICIENCY for (E7/4)
7XZ
18
59.10 X (1 - 100) X 175
Kg/H = ---------------------------------- X 90
7 X 74
Kg/H = 14.73
DRAW FRAME:
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.
• Roller drafting adds irregularities in the strand.
• Drafting also actually reduced the strand irregularities by breaking down the
fiber groups. Drafting is accompanied by doubling on the draw frame, this
offsets the added irregularity.
Drafting arrangement is the heart of the draw frame. The drafting arrangement should
be
• Simple.
• Stable design with smooth running of rollers.
• Able to run at higher speeds and produce high quality product
• Flexible i.e. suitable to process different materials, fiber lengths and sliver hanks.
• Able to have good fiber control.
• Easy to adjust. .
• Drafting is affected by the following raw material factors:
• No. of fibers in the cross section.
• Fiber fineness.
• Degree of parallelization of the fibers.
• Compactness of the fiber strand.
DRAFTING WAVE:
Floating fibers are subject to two sets of forces acting in opposite directions. The more
number of fibers which are moving slowly because of the contact with the back rollers
restrain the floating fibers from accelerating. The long fibers in contact with the front
rollers tend to accelerate the floating fibers to the higher speed. As the floating fibers
move away from the back roller, the restraining force by back roller held fibers reduces,
and the front roller influence increases. At some balance point, a fiber accelerates
suddenly from low to high speed. This balance point is compounded by the laws of
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Friction, static friction being higher than dynamic friction. When one floating fiber
accelerates, the neighboring short fibers suddenly feel one more element tending to
accelerate them and one fewer trying to restrain them. Thus there may be an avalanche
effect which results in drafting wave.
ADVANTAGES OF AUTOLEVELLER:
• All variations are corrected
• Count C.V % will be consistent and good.
• Thin places in the sliver will be low
• Ring frame breaks will come down, so that
o Pneumafil waste will be less
o Fluff in the department will be less, therefore uster cuts will be less
o Fabric quality will be good because of lower number of fluff in the yarn
o Labour productivity will be more
o Machine productivity will be more
o Idle spindles will be less
• RKM C.V % will be low, because of low number of thin places.
• Sliver U%, hence yarn U% will be good
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EXAMPLE PC 52/48
POLYESTER COTTON
GRAINS 71 67
NO OF CANES 4 4
SUB TOTAL 71X4= 284 67X4= 268
TOTAL GRAINS 284+268= 552
AVERAGE OF POLYESTER 284 X 100 = 51.45%
552
AVERAGE OF COTTON 268 X 100 =48.55 %
552
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67
Draft = -------------------- x 8
70
Draft = 7.65
Production:
Speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.75(efficiency)
= --------------------------------------------------------------------
7000
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Drawing Reiter:
Drafting Zone:
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Production:
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TECHNICAL POINTS
• Fiber to fiber cohesion is less for combed slivers. Rollers in the creel can easily
create false drafts. Care must be taken to ensure that the slivers are passed to the
drafting arrangement without disturbance.
• Bobbin and flyer are driven separately, so that winding of the twisted strand is
carried out by running the bobbin at a higher peripheral speed than the flyer.
• The bobbin rail is moving up and down continuously, so that the coils must be
wound closely and parallel to one another to ensure that as much as material is
wound on the bobbin.
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• Since the diameter of the packages increases with each layer, the length of the
roving per coil also will increase. Therefore the speed of movement of bobbin
rail must be reduced by a small amount after each completed layer.
• Length delivered by the front roller is always constant. Owing to the increase in
the diameter of the package for every up and down movement, the peripheral
speed of package should keep on changing , to maintain the same difference in
peripheral speeds between package and flyer.
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Roving strength:
Roving strength is a major factor in determining winding limitations.
It must be high enough for the fibers to hold together in a cohesive
strand and low enough for satisfactory drafting at the spinning machine.
The factors affecting roving strength are as follows:
• The length, fineness, and parallelization of fibers
• The amount of twist and compactness of the roving.
• The uniformity of twist and linear density.
Twist Multiplier:
T.M = T.P.I
Count
HANK
BLEND RATIO COUNT T.M T.P.I
ROVING
PC 65/35 CDD 2.0 60 and above 0.676 0.956
PC 65/35 CMD 1.5 40-60 0.676 0.827
PC 52/48 CDD 1.10 24-40 0.757 0.794
PRODUCTION OF SIMPLEX
HANK ROVING = Draft x count feed
HANK ROVING = 7.73 x 0.119
HANK ROVING = 0.92
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Total Draft
Count Delivered
Actual draft = ---------------------
Count Fed
0.92
Actual draft = -------------
0.119
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SIMPLEX FAULTS:-
1. More U %age:
More U % age or C.V. % in roving is due to more U % age in
Feeding sliver
.
2. UNEQUAL TAPER:
If taper at the both ends of package, stability will suffer.
3. STRETCHED ROVING:
Less reduction in roving make the roving finer then the actual count which increase U
% age and C.V. % age
4. SLUBS IN ROVING:
Causes
I. More waste in feeding material
II. More short fiber
IV. Fly accumulation on creel, etc.
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RING FRAME:
After the roving frame yarn-manufacturing process is started. The process is
accomplished by using ring frame which performs following functions.
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LAPPET GUIDE:
Lappet guide performs the same sequence of movements as the ring rail, but with a
shorter stroke. This helps to control the yarn tension variation with in control, so that
ends down rate and yarn characteristics are under control.
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Traveler:
Traveler imparts twist to the yarn. Traveler and spindle together help to wind the yarn
on the bobbin. Length wound up on the bobbin corresponds to the difference in
peripheral speeds of the spindle and traveler.
If traveler weight is too low, the bobbin becomes too soft. If a choice is available
between two traveler weights, then the heavier is normally selected, since it will give
greater cop weight, smoother running of the traveler and better transfer of heat out of
traveler.
When the yarn runs through the traveler, some fibers are liberated. Most of these fibers
float away as dust in to the atmosphere, but some remain caught on the traveler and
they can accumulate and form a tuft. This will increase the mass of traveler and will
result in end break because of higher yarn tension.
T.M
(Approximation)
BLEND RATIO WEAVING KNITTING
PC 65/35 3.35 3.0
PC 52/48 3.55 3.10
CVC 60/40 3.80 3.20
CVC 80/20 4.00 3.4
COTTON 100% 4.40 3.90
PP 100% 2.90 2.50
Actual draft =
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Count delivered
= ---------------------------
Count fed
30
= --------------
0.92
= 32.60
For example
30/1 CD W
TM of Single Yarn 4.50
TM of Double Yarn 4.5 x 0.7 = 3.15
Count of double yarn 15
TPI of double yarn = 3.15 15
TPI of double yarn = 12.19
TPI of double yarn = 12 - 13
If more then one counts need to be doubled
For example
30/1 and 40/1
1 1 1 1
-------- = -------- + --------- …………… --------------
Cr C1 C2 Cn
1 1 1
-------- = -------- + ---------
Cr 30 40
1 4 + 3 7
------- = ---------------------------- = -----------
Cr 120 120
1 7 120
-------- -------------- = Cr = -------- = 17.14
Cr 120 7
AUTO CONER
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AUTO CONER
The winding process has become an integral part of most of the spinning.Thus the basic
function of winding machine is the transfer of yarn from number relatively small ring
bobbins on to wound big package suitable for transport and for further processing. The
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winding machine also ensures the continuity of the yarn from these packages by proper
knotting or piecing. The 2nd important function of winding machine is the removal of
spinning faults, usually quite common in ring bobbins, these faults include, thick and
thin places, neps bad piecing, soft ends, loose lint and sloughing off, etc.
USUAL PASSAGE OF YARN:
In a typical winding machine the yarn passes from the supply bobbin through a
tensioning device, a slub remove, a tension bracket, over a package lever and finally on
to take up package.
Most modern winding machines are equipped with the thread detectors which detect the
presence of thread and if it is broken, it is automatically repaired by knotters or splicers.
The bobbins are placed in a magazine and when a bobbin finishes out it can be
automatically replaced a full one.
The tensioners detect whether the yarn passing through them is of the required strength
or not. If a yarn has a thin place, a bad piecing or soft ends it will not be able to tolerate
the exerted tension and will break. The faulty region is then removed and yarn is
knotted or pieced together by auto knotters or splicers. An unusually thick in the yarn
(slub) is removed by slub removers, which are of various types.
SPECIAL FEATURES OF MACHINE:
BAL-CON:
Bal-Con: The Balloon Controller.
Balloon control ring is attached to a specially designed electronic system comprises on
sensors. Balloon control ring and specially designed electronic system works as one
assembly. Both sensors sense the presence of yarn on bobbin. As sensors found no yam
in front of sensors the whole assembly slides down a little to keep the balloon length
constant. Thus balloon is kept constant from start of bobbin till end of bobbin. Hence
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we are able to control yarn tension constant which causes yarn breaks. Thus breaks are
controlled. Thus enhancing the unwinding efficiency/speed.
PRE CLEARER:
It is situated after Bal-Con to control the passage of more than one thread, as some time
due to sloughing off more layers are collectively unwound that will trapped in the
clearer but it can damaged clearer.
SPLICER:
It is device used to join the two ends of yarn having same count in such away that one
can not distinguish between the parent yam and joint or in other words it splices them
together without a knot.
YARN CLEARER:
It detects thick, thin places, colored fibers, polythene and foreign matters etc.
FREQUENTLY OCCURING YARN FAULTS:
Yarn faults from staple fibers contains imperfections which can be subdivided in to the
following three categories.
Thick Places
Thin Places
Slubs
Thick and Thin places referring to those which can be classified the term
“imperfection” exceed +30% or -30% with respect to the mean value of yarn cross
section size. The type of imperfections referred as Neps can over step +100% limits. A
nep is a very short thick place in the yarn. It can be either a seed coat nep or fiber nep.
USTER SETTING:
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S 150% 1.5 CM
L 40% 40 CM
T -40% 40CM
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Production = --------------------------------------------------------------
T.P.I x 36 x 840 x Count.
1100 x60 x120 x24 x 0.85
Production = --------------------------------------
0.829 x 36 x 840 x 1.20 x 100
Production = 53.70 bags/day/frame
No of simplex frame require = ring consumption/production of one simplex frame
No of simplex require=273/53.70
No of simplex require= 5 simplex
Finisher Drawing:
Simplex consumption: 273x (100/100-2)
Simplex consumption: 278.57bags
Production:
Speed (mtr/min) x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.85(efficiency)
= --------------------------------------------------------------------
7000 x 100
400 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 70 x 0.85
= ------------------------------------------
7000 x 100
= 54.53bags/day/drawing
No of drawings require = simplex consumption/production of onedrawing
No of drawings require=278.57/54.53
No of simplex require= 5
Inter Drawing:
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140 x 1.0936 x 60 x 24 x 67
= -------------------------------------- X 0.80
7000 x 100
= 16.88 bags/day/card
No of cards require = inter consumption/production of one card
No of cards =133.71/16.88
No of cards require for polyester= 8
BLOW ROOM:
Input of cotton cards = 133.71(100/100-16)
= 159.18 bags
No of bales require for cotton = 159.18 x 45.36/160
No of bales require for cotton = 45 bales
Input of polyester cards = 144.85(100/100-2)
= 147.80 bags
No of bales require for cotton = 147.80 x 45.36/350
No of bales require for polyester= 19 bales
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INTRODUCTION:
The testing of fibers is always of critical importance to the spinner as the fiber
characteristics have a decisive impact on the running behaviour of the production
machines, as well as on the yam quality and manufacturing costs. The quality control
department plays an integral role in the modern spinning mills
Following are the test results obtained with HVI Spectrum.
FIBER NEPS:
Fiber neps are generally defined as entanglements of several fibers. Mechanical
treatment of the cotton fibers during harvesting, ginning and opening and cleaning of
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the fibers in the spinning plant generate them. Neps are reduced at carding and
combing. The amount of reduction highly depends on the machine performance, the
production level and the overall quality that the spinning mill wants to achieve.
HARVESTING/ GINNING:
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Neps are first created when the cotton is harvested mechanically (stripper or spindle
picked). Stripper harvesting is considered more aggressive than picker harvesting,
which can result in higher nep levels after ginning.
Also, different cotton varieties and origins are ginned by different ginning techniques:
Roller or saw ginned. Roller ginning is generally less aggressive and creates less neps.
Most long and extra long staple cottons are roller ginned since it preserves fiber length
better than saw ginning. However, roller gins have generally a much lower production
rate than saw gins. Therefore, most medium to short staple cottons are saw ginned
which results in higher nep and also higher short fiber content.
SEED COAT NEPS:
Seed coat neps are fragments of the cottonseed that still have some fibers attached.
They are created mainly in ginning when the fibers are being separated from the seed.
The amount of seed coat neps in raw cotton depends on the quality and the
aggressiveness of the ginning process.
MICRONAIRE (MIC-):
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A fiber sample of constant weight is measured by pacing air through the fibers and
measuring the drop in pressure. Other factors such as fineness and maturity have an
influence on micronaire results.
Micronaire Description
LENGTH:
Fiber length is one of the most important fiber properties. Each spinning system
requires a suitable fiber length in order to operate efficiently. In addition, the following
general rule applies for most cotton fibers:
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The Uniformity index expresses the ratio of the Mean Length to the Upper Half Mean
length in percent.
Uniformity Index = Mean length /Upper Half Mean Length x 100.
STRENGTH:
The bundle strength is the breaking strength of the cotton fibers in grams per tex
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Strength
Description
(grams/Tex)
Lest than 21 Very weak
22 to 24 Weak
25 to 27 Medium
28 to 30 Strong
31 and Higher Very strong
ELONGATION (ELG.):
Elongation is measurement the elastic behavior of the bundle.
Elongation Description
Less than 5.0 Very low
5.0 to 5,8 LOW
5.0 to 6.7 Medium
6.8 to 7.6 High
7.7 and Higher Very High
MOISTURE (MOIST.):
Moisture is the percentage of water (H2O) that is present in the sample being nested.
Moisture in the cotton varies with time, temperature, and humidity to which the samples
have been exposed. The best level of precision and accuracy arc obtained when sample
moisture has an average of 6.5% - 8%.
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Moisture Description
Below 4.5 Very low
4.5 to 6.5 Low
6.5 to 8.0 Medium
8.0 to 10.0 High
10.0 and Higher Very High
REFLECTANCE (Rd):
This value expresses the whiteness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers.It is
used in conjunction with the yellowness (+b) to determine the instrument-measured
colour grade of the cotton.
YELLOWNESS (+b):
This value expresses the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibre. The
yellowness (+b) of the sample is determined by using a yellow filter. It corresponds to
the +b value represented in the Nickerson/Hunter color chart.
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L (N)
“The mean length by number is the average fiber length of all fibers in the sample”
L (N) cv %
“The variation in length by number is the average fiber length of all fibers in the
sample”
L (N) 5%
“The 5% length by number is the length of longer 5% fibers in the cotton sample”
SFC (N)
“SFC by number is the %age of all the fibers in the cotton sample that are shorter then
0.5” or 12.7 mm.”
L (W)
“The mean length by weight is the average fiber length of all fibers in the sample”
L (W) cv %
“The variation in length by weight is the average fiber length of all fibers in the
sample”
SFC (W)
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“SFC by weight is the %age of all the fibers with in the cotton sample that are shorter
then 0.5” or 12.7 mm.”
UQL (W)
“The upper quartile length by weight is the length which 25% of all fibers by weight
exceed in a cotton sample”
Range of Neps and Seed Coat Neps(SCN) in Raw Cotton
SHORT AND MEDIUM STAPLE
NEPS/G SCN/G DESCRIPTION
∠ 100 ∠ 10 VERY LOW
101-200 11-20 LOW
201-300 21-30 MEDIUM
301-450 31-45 HIGH
> 451 > 46 VERY HIGH
LONG STAPLE
NEPS/G SCN/G DESCRIPTION
∠ 100 ∠ 7 VERY LOW
101-150 8-12 LOW
151-200 13-20 MEDIUM
201-250 21-25 HIGH
> 251 > 20 VERY HIGH
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LONG STAPLE
MATURITY DESCRIPTION IFC DESCRIPTION
∠ 0.8 VERY IMMATURE ∠ 6 VERY LOW
0.81-0.86 IMMATURE 6-8 LOW
0.87-0.92 MATURE 9-11 MEDIUM
0.93-0.95 MATURE 12-14 HIGH
> 0.96 VERY MATURE > 15 VERY HIGH
Zweigle Hairiness Tester is used in the mill site to measure the hairiness in the
yarn. Hairiness is a descriptive term used to describe the larger number of fiber ends or
looped fibers projecting free from the yarn. Hairiness is expressed as
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1. It adversely affects the appearance of yarns and fabrics. Hairiness in yarns leads
to fuzzy and hazy appearance of fabric. According to Uster 15% of fabric defects
and quality problems stem from hairiness.
2. Long hairs in yarn lead to more warp breaks and fabric defects like stitches and
floats.
3. Excessive lint droppings in sizing loom shed and during knitting are encountered
with hairy yarns because of shedding of hairs and broken hairs.
4. In printed goods, prints will be misty and lack sharpness if yarn is hairy.
5. In sewing breakages will be high with hairy yarns
Is hairiness undesirable?
In spite of these drawbacks, hairiness has some beneficial effects. It adds to the textile
character of the fabric and contributes to comfort, liveliness, skin friendliness and
warmth. This will be apparent from a comparison of fabrics made from filament yarn
and staple fibre yarn of the same type of fibre and count. Fabric made from filament
yarn will have ‘plastic’ feel. Warmth found in woollen cardigans, shawls and flannel
fabrics is to some extent due to hairiness. Hairiness also adds to fullness and cover of
fabric. Further hairiness assists weft insertion in air jet looms because of grip provided
by it.
Factors influencing Hairiness:
• Fibre length, short fibre content, fineness and rigidity are the most important
properties of fibre that influence hairiness.
• A significant correlation is found between hairiness and fibre length and
uniformity ratio.
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• Yarns from shorter and variable cottons are more hairy. As a result any process
from picking to ginning to opening of cotton those results in fibre breakages will
increase hairiness in yarns.
• Hairiness increases with coarseness of fibre, because of higher resistance to
twisting.
• Hairiness is higher with very low and very high micronaire cottons. Hairiness is
lowest with cottons of 4.2 – 4.4 micronaire. With low micronaire cottons, fibre
breakages will be higher and sticking tendency will also be more. As a result,
hairiness will be higher. With high micronaire cottons, fibre rigidity will be more
leading to higher hairiness.
• Fibre length and short fibre content have maximum influence on hairiness.
Mode of formation:
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SuessenEliTe
The condensing zone consists of a lattice apron, located at the bottom and driven by the
delivery top roller. The apron runs over a profile tube, which has a slot S, at the middle.
Suction is applied through the slot. Front top roller of drafting system drives the
delivery top roller through a gear. The diameter of delivery roller is slightly higher than
front roller of drafting system, due to which the fibres in the strand are delivered in a
straightened condition. Air drawn through inclined slot causes rotation of fibres around
their axis, which contributes to better integration of short fibres into strand.
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A perforated drum replaces the front bottom roller of drafting . A stationery insert, I,
with a specially designed suction slot, in the middle over a length S, is located inside
the drum. Apart from the normal top roller a second nip roller, with weighting, is also
placed on the drum. Condensation of strand takes place in the zone between the top
roller and nip roller As a result of suction inside the drum, the fibres follow the suction
slot and get condensed. An air guide element ensures that suction operates in the slot
area. The system is suitable only cottons beyond 1.07 inch length and is therefore
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PACKING
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Packing is the last stage in the yarn manufacturing process. Packing incharge under the
super vision of GM mills is held responsible for all the issues relating to the packing of
the yarn. There are two types of packing
Export Packing
“Cartons are used in the export packing”
Local Packing
“Poly propylene bags are used for local packing”
Each bag weight is 100 lbs or 45.36 kgs(excluding tare)
In packing department following kinds of cones are packed:
• 4.17 lbs(24 cones/Bag)
• 2.5 lbs(40 cones/Bag)
• 2.08 lbs(48 cones/Bag)
Pallet Packing:
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Pallet Detail
Count 30/1 pc 52/48
Cone Weight 4.167 lbs
No of cones per layer 7x6 = 42
No of layers 14
Cones per pallet 42 x 14 = 588
Net yarn weight per pallet kg 1.89 x = 1111.32 kg
Total yarn weight net 18 x 1111.32 = 20003.76 kg
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3.0 PROCEDURE;
3.1 PRODUCTION;
a) Every morning, the production incharge gives the detail of yarn produced during the
last 24 hours. using cones counting basis, to excise incharge.On the basis of
information received, excise incharge prepares Yarn Production Report in bags.
This report is E-mail to accounts and marketing department at head office.
b) Packing incharge arranges the packing of cones in bags with the help of palledar
team. After packing, excise incharge arranges weighment of yarn bags with the help
of palledar team and notes down the weights of these bags on Yarn Weighment
Performa.
c) After packing and weighment, the bags of yarn are labeled according to the
instructions received from the marketing department.
d) After labeling, excise incharge arranges stacking of bags in godown EB-4,
according to there count and blend, with the help of palledar team. After staking,
excise incharge prepares Daily Yarn Stock Report and Yarn Weighment Report. This
report is E-mail to accounts and marketing department at head office.
3.2 DESPATCH/CLEARANCE;
Delivery Order is issued by Manager Marketing to dispatch the Yarn for export and
local. On receipt of Delivery Order, excise Incharge and security officer check
signature with specimen available to them, to confirm its validity. The excise
incharge also checks the particulars of goods to be dispatched with the Daily Yarn
Stock Report. In case of any discrepancy, he immediately informs the C.M.A at
mills and marketing department at head office.
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.In the absence of G.M, it signed by M.M and in the absence of C.M.A. the person
who is authorized to do so sign it.
i) The excise incharge also maintains Sales Tax Invoice register (Annexure-I) for sales
tax purpose. Every OGP is given a particular number from Sales Tax Invoice
register and sent to accounts department on daily basis.
j) The excise incharge gives two sets of documents to the driver. First set contains
yellow copy of gate pass and bilty(original bilty is kept for record) where as the
second set contains copy of delivery order(fax copy),white and blue copy of gate
pass. After, this he allows the vehicle to go at mills gate
k) At mills gate, driver gives the second set of documents to the security personal who
compares the delivery order and gate pass. The vehicle is reweighed on the same
weighbridge. If all the documents are in order then security inspector stamp
“DELIVERD” on the back of Delivery Order and allows the vehicle to pass the
gate. He also makes the entry in Yarn Dispatch Register .
3.2.2 EXPORT DESPATCH/CLEARANCE
a) In case of export dispatch, export manager at head office arranges the transport for
the consignment.
b) Excise incharge examines the condition of container and confirms whether it meets
the export standards, free from all kinds of harmful objects, which may deteriorate
yarn quality etc.
c) Point no 3.2.1(b) to (k) above points are as they are, except weighment of empty
and load vehicle.
3.2.3 The excise incharge also prepares Yarn Clearance Report. Yarn Clearance Report
is sent through E-mail to accounts, marketing and internal audit departments at head
office.
3.2.4 The excise incharge also maintains Third Party Stock Register.
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