Summer Internship On Ankur Textiles
Summer Internship On Ankur Textiles
Summer Internship On Ankur Textiles
Fashion
Technology
Chennai
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
CONTENTS
ORGANIZATION PROFILE AND HISTORY
5-6
ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY
SPINNNG
9-16
DRAWING
16-19
19-21
ROVING
21-22
9 WEAVING
1 STEAMING
0
11 WARPING
22-32
32-35
1
2
1
3
1
4
1
5
1
6
1
7
1
8
1
9
2
0
2
1
DRAWING-IN
39
KNOTTING
40
LOOM SHED
40-44
PROCESSING
44-46
DESIZING PROCESS
46-47
SINGEING
45
SCOURING
47-50
BLEACHING
50-52
SOURING
52
DYEING
53-54
35-38
best technology of that time was acquired at a most attractive price and a company called
Arvind Limited was born.
Arvind Limited with a share capital of rupees 25,25,000($ 55,000) in the year
1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high and super fine fabric. Arvind invested a very
sophisticated technology, with 52,560 ring spindle, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms,
it was one of the few company in those days to start along with spinning and weaving
facilities in addition to full fledged facilities for bleaching, mercerizing , dyeing and
finishing. The sales in the year 1934, after three years of establishment was 45.75 lacks and
profit was profit was 2.82 lacks steadily producing quality fabrics, year after year Arvind took
its place amongst foremost textile units in the country.
ARVIND GROUP OF COMPANIES:
Arvind Intex
Arvind CoatspinArvind millsArvind millsArvind worldwideArvind worldwideArvind clothing LimitedArvind Fashion Limited-
Gomitpur, Ahmedabad
Kolhapur, Maharastra
Naroda, Ahmedabad
Santej, Ahmedabad
Mauritius
USA
Gandhinagar
Gujarat
VISION
Be the foundation that integrates culture vision and values, creates an environment that
facilitates the maximization of human potential.
PHILOSOPHY
We believe in people and their unlimited potential.
In content and focus in problem solving.
In Teams for effective performance.
In intellect and its power.
DREAM
Of excellence in all Endeavour. Of mutual benefit and prosper. Of making the world a better
place to live in, we make things happen.
ENDEAVOUR
To select train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities. To nurture talent to build
leadership for tomorrow and to reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual business
contribution.
ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY
Officers
OFFICERS
President
P D Chavda
CEO
Unit Head
Departments
Spinning
Weaving
Processing
Packaging
Human Resource
Marketing
Grade Criteria:
Workers
E1
Officer
E2
M1
M2
M3
BM(1-7)
Manager(head)
Manager
Sr. Manager
Chief Manager
Business Manager
SPINNING
Spinning is the twisting together of fibers to form yarn. The process used
for yarn formation is spinning. Spinning by hand was a slow and laborious
process. Thus, many implements and methods were invented for making
it faster and simple. The basic manufacturing process of spinning includes
carding, combing, are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and
finally yarn.
Cleaning is required to remove the trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs and
any remaining seeds. Carding is the initial straightening process which
puts the fiber into a parallel lengthwise alignment. This makes the tangled
mass of fiber ready to produce yarn. This form of the fiber is called 'Lap'.
The lap is treated for removing the remaining trash, disentangling and
molding it into a round rope like mass called 'Sliver'. The sliver is then
straightened again which is called Combing. In it, fine-toothed combs
continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged in such a parallel
manner that the short fibers are completely separated from the longer
fibers. This process forms a 'comb sliver' made of the longest fibers.
Drawing pulls the staple lengthwise over each other. As a result longer
and thinner slivers are produced. 'Roving' is the final product of the
several drawing-out operations. It is the preparatory stage for the final
6
PRSCLBDoubaringmpstedlwFxWEING
insertion of twist. Enough twist is given for holding the fibers together but
it has no tensile strength till this process, it can break apart easily with a
slight pull. The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where
it passes through several sets of rollers running at high speed and finally
the 'Yarn' is produced of the sizes desired.
SPINNING
UNIT
(ANKUR
BLOW ROOM
Blowroom is the first step of yarn production in the spinning mills. The bales are taken to the
blowroom and prepared for the process. Basic operations in the blowroom are:
1. Opening.
2. Cleaning.
3. Mixing or blending.
4. Micro dust removal.
5. Uniform feed to the carding machine.
6. Recycling the waste.
Mixing
90s
Type of cotton
80% (dch-32
Quantity
8 bales
mp)
Marking on lap
Blue
15 bales
20%
(pimabAmerican
70s
105(export)
Polyester
cotton)
Mcu5 (Ganyur)
(100% pima b)
(0.8 micro denier
6 bales
2 bales
3 bales
Red
Green
Green Tinting
40mm,Custer-SD
round fiber of
reliance
industries ltd.
Weight of Bales:
90s Cotton Dch-32 (170kg per bale).
70s Cotton-Mcu5 (170kg per bale).
105(export)-(pimab) (230kg per bale).
Polyester-(0.8 denier polyester fiber) (400kg per bale).
Lap.wt.
Gms/mt
Length of
Marking
HK of lap
Blue
0.00144
90s
(18.1-18.7
+/-300gms
lap
45 m
mixing.
70s
kg).375
(18.1-18.7
+/-300gms
45 m
Red
0.00144
mixing.
105s.
kg).375
(18.1-18.7
+/-300gms
45 m
Green
0.00144
mixing.
Polyester.
kg).375
18 -16.8 kg
+/-300gms
Green Tint
0.00147
NOTE:
10
Axiflow
Beater B
MPN (MultiMixer)
Bypass
Bypass
Step
Step cleaner
Condenser
Scutcher 1
Scutcher 2
Lap
Lap
11
cleaner
For Polyester:GSCL
Bcao
Runp
t-do
3ceP
.hno
eys
ree
rs
.e
r
S B C c R uo
- t n c3 L d h . a e e p n r
s o
e f
r P.
l y
t e
f
l
t
.
CARDING
Carding continues the cleaning process removing fibers too short for yarns
and separating and straightening the fibers so that they lay parallel to
each other. These fibers are then spread into a thin, uniform web. The web
moves into a funnel shaped device (trumpet) where it is gathered into a
rope like mass and formed into the card sliver.
Depending on the quality of yarn being made, the sliver either goes to the
drawing machine or the combing machine. Fine quality cottons require
yarns to be combed in addition to carding. The card sliver goes through
the breaker drawing step and then the combing operation.
12
Objectives of Carding:
NOTE:
No. of Cards
4
Canes used
White/Green
Marking of lap
Blue
plastic canes of
70s
105(export)
Polyester
24 * 42
Red canes 24 *
Red
42
Red canes 24 *
Green
42
Red canes 24 *
Green Tint.
42
13
DRAWING
Drawing follows either combing or carding, depending on the quality of
yarn desired. Several strands of sliver (typically eight to ten) from
different carding machines are combined and conveyed to the drawing
machine, where they are pulled together and drawn out into a new sliver
no larger than one of the original single slivers. The loose, rope like strand
of fibers resulting from this process is called drawn sliver.
Objectives of drawing:
14
Manufacturer
Mat.Running
Prodn./Day
RSB(Ricter)
Terry cotton
1700 kg
RSB(Ricter)
90s /Exp
1100 kg
Padmatex
Polyester
1500 kg
Padmatex
T/C 3
1600 kg
LRD 02/S
T/C 4/2/3
1200-1300kg
LRD 02/S
T/C 2/3
1400kg
Padmatex
90s/Exp/T/C/1/2/3
1500-1600kg
Padmatex
90s/70s/Exp/card
1450-1500kg
15
formed. Short fibers and all residual non-lint materials are removed. This
combed sliver is used to make high quality yarns.
Yarn evenness
Strength
Cleanliness
Smoothness
Visual appearance
TASK OF THE COMBER:
1. Elimination of short fibers
2. Elimination of remaining impurities
3. Elimination of neps
LAP FORMER:Lap produced on lap former goes to comber machine count wise.
COMBER MACHINES:-
No. Of
Lap Marker
Comber Lap
Combers
Running
90s
70s
1,4,7,9,10
Blue line
3,8,11
Red line
Fig :# Combing
5
3
ROVING
The drawn fiber is taken to the roving frame, where it is further drawn. As the roving strand is
ready to leave the roving frame, a slight twist is imparted to hold the fibers together.
OBJECTIVES OF ROVING FRAME:
18
DOUBLING
Doubling Bobbin.
NOTE:
In voiles (both ring frame and doubling is given Z twist).
WEAVING
Weaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the warp and
the filling or weft (older woof), are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. The
warp threads run lengthways of the piece of cloth, and the weft runs across from side to side.
Cloth is woven on a loom, a device for holding the warp threads in place while the filling
threads are woven through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven".
The manner in which the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is known as the
weave. The three basic weaves are plain weave, satin weave, and twill, and the majority of
woven products are created with one of these weaves.
Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or it can be
woven in decorative or artistic designs, including tapestries. Fabric in
which the warp and/or weft is tie-dyed before weaving is called ikat.
19
Shedding :
Each alternate warp yarn is raised to insert the filling yarn into the warp to form
a shed. Shedding is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through which
the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. The shed is the vertical
space between the raised and unraised warp yarns. In modern looms, simple and
intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle or
heald frame, also known as a harness. The weave pattern determines which
harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends
on the complexity of the weave.
Picking :
As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the
shed is created. The filling yarn is inserted through the shed by a small carrier
device called a shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow
passage through the shed. The filling yarn emerges through a hole in the shuttle
as it moves across the loom. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the
20
loom to the other is known as a pick. As the shuttle moves back and forth across
the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the
fabric from raveling.
Beating up (Battening)
As the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also passes
through openings in another frame called a reed. With each picking operation,
the reed presses or battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that
has already been formed. The point where the fabric is formed is called the fell.
Taking up and letting off
With each shedding, Picking, Battening operation, the new fabric formed is
wound on the cloth beam which is called 'taking up'. At the same time, the warp
yarns must be released from the warp beam which is called 'letting off'.
As the shuttle moves back and forth across the width of the shed, a self edge is
woven which is called selvage or selvedge. The selvage prevents the
fabric from muddling. It is usually more compact and strong than
the rest of the fabric. There are different kinds of selvages depending upon the
expected use of the fabric- Plain Selvages, Tape Selvages, Split Selvages, Fused
Selvages, Leno Selvages and Tucked Selvages.
NOTE : In ANKUR TEXTILES mainly plain, satin and twill weave is made,
with different types of selvedge designs.
21
WINGARPSZDTwo section :
a) Preparatory.
b) Loom shed.
Winding
238nm/c -4 {Electronics}
With knotting Uster
With Splicing
538 {Mechanical}
Murata-3 x-5 Latest autocomber
Knotting m/c(238)-only double yarn
Autocomber-538
- with 10 spindle 1 knot.
22
Oerlikon
Schlafhorst
Splicing
WARPING MACHINES :
PROCESS SEQUENCE
23
RA
DSUPI
SOSTAN
WURI
UTEGO
ANT
BEAC
RGOL
LAMFO
PECL
MRNIOII
NNAEIIE
NNL
GNGMR
GWGE
GER
I
N
D
I
N
G
A U T O C O NE R R IN G F R A M E
DOUS T E ABML IINN GG
SS TINE GEA M IINN GG A U T O C O NE R
WA R P IN G
24
P A R A L E L WIN DIN G
WINDING
Yarn from the spinning frame is next wound onto large spools or
packages in a process called winding. These spools or packages are
now use in weaving, knitting and other operations. In some cases,
packages of yarns may be dyed prior to knitting or weaving. This
allows colored patterns to be produced in the fabric.
Ring spinning produces yarn in a package form called cops. Since
cops from ring frames are not suitable for further processing, the
winding process serves to achieve additional objectives made
necessary by the requirements of the subsequent processing stages.
Following are the tasks of winding process:
1. Extraction of all disturbing yarn faults such as the short, long thick
,long thin, spinners doubles, etc
2. Manufacture of cones having good drawing - off properties and with
as long a length of yarn as possible
3. paraffin waxing of the yarn during the winding process
4. introduction into the yarn of a minimum number of knots
5. achievement of a high machine efficiency i.e. high production level.
The winding process therefore has the basic function of
obtaining a larger package from several small ring
bobbins. This conversion process provides one with the possibility of
cutting out unwanted and problematic objectionable faults. The
25
clearing.
RS
R N I GN LG E F W R A I N M D E I N B G O
PD
S
I
No
P O A U R B A: 9 L L I L N E G L FW R I A N M D
SIID of machine in windingD department
ASO AutoconerS 238T machine
(SCHLAFHORST)
:4
E
A
M
I
N
G
D
O
U
B
L
E
W
IN D IN
NTWN Autoconer
138 machine (PADMATEX) : 2
S
I
N
G
I
N
G
AL O machine
R O P M : I 3N S G H E D
GLORIUG Match Wcorner
R E Y F A B R IC
EAGOU
PRODUCTION
OF GAUTOCORNER
RANBF (winding speed/ y.p.m. *time*efficiency) / (840*2.2* count)
=
ARLOB kg/day/machine
=6.42
ELGLR
MPEML Bobbin peg MACHINE PARTS (AUTOCONER 238 )
YIA Balloon braker
IW Precleaner
EN Tension device
MNI Splicing head
clearer (luster)
FSWLGE Yarn
GNH Yarn holder
device
AIWB Wax
Yarn trap
D
BENIFO Drum
MACHINE
PARTICULS :
IDN
RRB Model : sclafhorest
year : 25-1-1996
NID Mfg
of spindle : each side 60
IAB No
speed : 900 rpm
GNI Winding
count : 95 & 100
CMI Running
Humidication maintain : 60to 65 %
GN Efficiency :90%
EN
G
MACHINE PARTS (AUTOCONER 138)
Bobbin peg
Balloon breaker
Precleaner
Lower cutter
26
B B IN
EI N G
Gate feeler
Tension shoe
Upper cutter
Splicing head
Wax device
Yarn clearer
Lap guard
Drum
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
27
In this process first the material which comes from doubling frame is put in one basket and
these types of three baskets are used. Then the basket is put in the steaming machine and the
door is closed. In this process 15% vacuum and 2 kg pressure is applied and this process
takes time about 1.5 to 2 hours and the basket is taken out.
Number of machines : 3
Feed material : doubling frame material used.
YARN SINGEING
OBJECTIVE:
To remove protruding fiber from the yarn.
To bring luster in the yarn.
SINGEING PRODUCTION
= ( winding speed * time* efficiency) / ( 840 *2.2*100*count)
=(820*22.5*60*0.80) / (840*2.2* 45)
= 11.40 kg/spd/day
28
29
WARPING
Warping is the process to collect a pre-determined number of ends from cross wound
package and from a sheet on the beam. It is followed by winding, in this process 400
to 600 parallel ends are taken in a sheet form and is wounded on a beam.
The new yarns are knotted with the old ones to draw them through the guides easily.
Drawing all the yarns through the guides in the creel is called creel dressing.
It is the process of determining the length of one section by passing the warp yarn
through another movable reed.
After drawing the yarns parameters required are feed on the machine
like warping speed, section length, number of ends etc.
It is the process of winding the warp yarns on the large beam depending
upon the length of warp yarn required.
Automatic knotter is applied for knotting the warp yarns of large beam to the already
present warp yarns on the weavers beam.
30
It is the process of winding the warp yarns on the weavers beam through relative
rotational cycle.
If the yarn breaks during the course of warping then the machine stops automatically
and the indicator on the related guide glows.
S. No.
31
Parameters
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Yarn Count
F to F distance
Pitch
Actual Pitch
Number of ends (total)
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
Number of machines : 4
Warping type : ( sectional warping)
INDEQUIP1 : creel capacity = 512 ends.
INDEQUIP2 : creel capacity = 500 ends.
BHAGWATI 1 : creel capacity = 480 ends.
BHAGWATI 2 : creel capacity = 612 ends.
STOP MOTION IN MACHINE:
DRAWING-IN
OBJECTIVE:
To drive the ends through eyes of healds and dents to feed with the
33
process.
Equipment needed for mounting heald frames and the reed is called
upright frame.
MANUAL DRAWING-IN
This process is done by drawer.
MECHANICAL DRAWING-IN
It is done by machines.
KNOTTING
For using new beam without removing end from old beam. Beam ends and drawn ends are
knotted together for making warp sheet.
Knots: 400 knots/min.
NOTE: Weaves are also decided according to the latest trends and marketing study.
NOTE : Weaving is done by power looms (shuttle looms) in ANKUT TEXTILES and there
are two types of looms based on design.
LOOM SHED
Objective:
34
Looms Motion:
o Main and auxiliary motion.
o Seeding [positive].
o Picking [negative].
o Beating-up [positive].
o Let-off motion [semi positive].
o Take up motion.
o Center weft fork stop motion.
o Warp stop motion.
o Loose read warp protector motion.
o Single pick motion.
o Reversing motion.
o Auto pirn changing device.
o Electrical feeler for pirn changing.
Quality 80088
Reed * pick = 72 * 72
FINISHED WIDTH = 90 cm
GREY WEIGHT = 86 87 gm
36
2. TIP TOP
GREY WIDTH = 91 cm
FINISHED WIDTH = 90 cm
3. Mulberry
4. Padmini
5. Dolphin
6. Rosemerry
DEFECTS DURING WEAVING
Warp break.
Warp slacks
Weft breaks
Weft slacks
Causes of stoppages:
Warp and weft brakes.
37
Shuttle trap.
Banging off.
Pkg. changes.
No shuttle transfer.
Break after transfer.
Damage mentioning.
Production Calculation:
Prod. Of loom/day/machine = Rpm * 60 *24.
39.37*picks/inches
Production depends on the value of Rpm of loom and PPI.
NOTE : average production of ANKUR TEXTILES is 80 mtrs per day .
PROCESSING
GREY INSPECTION DEPARTMENT
To remove projecting yarns and stains or weaving faults.
In grey inspection department fabric are observed on light surface. By light,
projecting yarns which are present on fabric in which both side are easily seen.
In inspection of grey fabric projecting yarns are remove and cut from middle and
selvedge of fabric.
38
Weaving faults like reed marks, knots, slub, parallel and single yarn
faults, sludge etc. Are removed from the grey fabric.
Unwashable stains are removed chemically.
GREY FOLDING
In grey folding, fabric is fold for farther process after grey inspection.
In half rotation 1 mt. of fabric is fold.
Then fabric is send to stitching, were according to requirement stitching is done.
No. of inspection table = 8
No. of folding m/c = 2
o
o
o
o
o
SINGEING
Singeing is done to remove the protruding fibers from the surface of the fabric, if protruding
fibers are not removed uniform penetration of dye cannot be done, and during printing sharp
print design will not have the same desired effect. It is a necessary process for dyeing and
printing process.
Singeing process is given to the cotton fabric generally in grey stage
but in case of polyester- cotton blend fabric this operation is given after dyeing of polyester
portion. If it is done in grey stage the protruding fibers gets melted and forms bead on surface
of fabric and this creates problem in dyeing ( shade variation can happen ).
FOR COTTON
1. machine speed
10 m/min
80 m/min
2. flame intensity
06 mili
10 mili
3. temperature
100.C
120.C
4. time of contact of
fabric to flame
0.55 sec
0.75 sec
7. Flame
DESIZING PROCESS
Objective:
The purpose of desizing is to remove size paste applied on the warp yarn before weaving
process, this size paste remains on the fabric produced after weaving. Usually an emulsifying
agent is added to sizing mixture to facilitate its removal from cloth.
It is necessary to remove the size paste from cloth because
hydrophobicity of this material causes problem during wet processing like less penetration of
chemical and less absorption of chemical.
PROCESS:
In ANKUR TEXTILES enzymatic desizing is done for the fabrics.
SCOURING
After desizing, the cloth still contains fats and waxes (both natural and added), due to its
presence absorbency of the cloth is adversely affected. This leads to improper dyeing and
finishing in the subsequent processes. These impurities are removed from the fabric in the
scouring processes.
The oils and fats are higher fatty acids of in organic compounds. They are hydrophobic
substances and affect the absorbency of the cloth. The outer hydrophobic layer has to be
removed to make the fabric absorbent.
The process by which this water resistant layer is removed from the fabric is called
Scouring.
Note:
Kiers are used for scouring process. It is under high pressure, saponification reaction takes
place in which impurities become soluble and then it is removed by washing.
KIERS:
Open Kiers.
Closed Kiers.
Chemical used for Scouring:
Caustic soda, sodium sulphate , soda ash.
Number of kiers in ANKUR TEXTILE:
5 Kiers.
40
Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabrics and threads that gives fabric a lustrous
appearance. The process is applied to cotton materials.
The treatment causes the fibres to swell, which in Mercer's version of the process shrunks the
overall fabric size and makes it stronger and easier to dye. By holding the cotton during
treatment to prevent it from shrinking, fibre gains a lustrous appearance. Mercerisation alters
the chemical structure of the cotton fibre. Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall
41
of the cotton fibre. This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, and gives fibers
a softer feel.[3]
The modern production method for mercerised cotton, also known as "pearl" or "pearle"
cotton, gives cotton thread a sodium hydroxide bath that is then neutralized with an acid
bath. This treatment increases luster, strength, affinity to dye, resistance to mildew, but also
increases affinity to lint. Cotton with long staple fibre lengths responds best to mercerisation.
Mercerised thread is commonly used to produce fine crochet.
Mercerisers are either chain or chainless and consist of three sections, impregnation,
stabilisation and washing off.
Most mercerisation units have their own caustic recovery systems to help minimise waste.
Principal pollutants: Alkaline effluent from washing and rinsing operations. Effluent from
mercerising operations consists mainly of mildy caustic rinse water. Typically the pH of this
effluent is about 10 to 12. Water usage for this process is about 20 liters per kg of cloth.
Effective Mercerization requires attention to variables such as caustic strength, dwell time
(feedrate), temperature, and neutralization. The feed rate of the fabric may also be limited by
its trength and weight and is usually run at 80 to 120 yards (73 to110 m) per minute.
MACHINE USED FOR MERCERIZATION IN INDUSTRY:
Chainless mercerizing machine = 2 machines
MACHINE DEATAILS:
Manufactured by
700 ltr
Nip pressure
2 kg / cm 2
23 metres
4 Kg /cm2
j.
k.
l.
m.
n.
o.
p.
q.
r.
Stabilizer
Washer
Scrolling device
Spray pipe
Dancing roller
Platter
Mercerized fabric
Washer pipe
Guide roller
BLEACHING
Objective
1. Removal of colouring matter.
2. Increases whiteness.
Bleaching means whitening or oxidizing a substance. Bleach is a chemical that can produce
these effects. Common chemical bleaches include sodium hypochlorite, or "chlorine bleach,"
and "oxygen bleach," which contains hydrogen peroxide. "Bleaching powder" is calcium
hypochlorite.
Bleaching is a process to make the fabric or yarn look brighter and whiter.
This is achieved by oxidizing or reducing the coloring matters in to
colorless form. Mostly widely used textile bleaching method is Hydrogen
Peroxide bleaching. This is carried out in an alkaline bath at
about 80 to 85C at a pH of 11.
Bleaching powder may be used for bleaching cotton and linen. The fabric
is soaked in a weak aqueous suspension of bleaching powder and exposed
to the air when hypochlorous acid is liberated and causes bleaching by
oxidation. The process is completed after repeated boiling, washing and
exposure to sunlight for up till 6 months.
Bleaching of textiles can be classified in to oxidative bleaching and reductive bleaching.
Oxidative bleaching
Generally oxidative bleaching is carried out using sodium hypochlorite, sodium
chlorite or hydrogen peroxide. Natural fibre like cotton ,jute, wool, bamboo are all generally
bleached with oxidative methods.
43
Reductive bleaching
Reductive method of bleaching is done with Sodium hydrosulphite, a powerful reducing
agent. Fibres like Polyamide, Polyacrylics and Polyacetates can be bleached using reductive
bleaching technology.
CHEMICKING PROCESS:
In this process sodium hypochlorite is used.
Procedure :
Hydrolysis
NaOCl + H2O NaOH + HOCl
Bleaching agent release
HOCl HCl + (O)
Maximum HOCl development
NaOCl + HCl NaCl +HOCl
Formation of free chlorine
HOCl + HCl H2O +Cl2
SOURING
In this process neutralization of fabric is done by using dilute mineral acid after bleaching
process and removes surface deposits from fabric, souring is carried out in dilute acid.
This process is necessary after bleaching because by this process traces of
oxidizing bleaching agent are also removed from the fabric. In this process concentration of
acid and temperature should be controlled.
CHEMICAL USED: 2 gm/ ltr HCl
TEMPERATURE : room temperature
MACHINE USED : washing machine
TIME: 1 hour
TEMPERATURE : 35- 40 .C
ROPE WASHER :
a. Water
b. Water tank
c. Eye pot
d. Fabric in rope form
e. Rubber roller
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f.
g.
h.
i.
j.
Winch
Fabric controlling plate
Chemical inlet
Water inlet
Drain valve
DYEING
In ANKUR TEXTILES dyeing department uses generally Reactive dyes, vat, sulphur dyes
for cotton and disperse dyes for polyester material. Reactive dyes and vat dyes are widely
used for cotton materials dyes used in the industry are of following manufacturers :
Reactive Dyes from M. ghmani Dyes
Sulphur Dyes from Bhanu Dyes
Vat Dyes from Atul Dyes
Disperse Dyes from Colourtex Dyes.
CARBONIZATION:
In order to obtain 100% polyester fabric this process is done, 100% polyester fabric cannot be
get by weaving process so first polyester- cellulosic blend is made then by using
carbonization process cellulosic portion from P-C blend is removed. This process is
particularly dine for the blose material of TIP- TOP brand of ANKUR TEXTILES.
Machine:
Jigger Machine
Chemical Used:
70% H2S04 soda ash (20 g/l)
Time:
4 Hours
Process:
Step 1st:- 1000 meters of fabric is taken for carbonization process on jigger m/c.
Step 2nd:- 4 turns are given in conc. H2SO4 in 1 hour.
Step 3rd:-Fabric is washed for 1 hour (4 turns) and given soda ash wash.
Step 4th:-Fabric is again washed for 1 hour (4 turns).
Optical Brightening process (OBA):
Object:
This process is given to make fabric pure white.
Optical brightening agents are physical bleaching agents
OBA make fabric more reflective by absorbing ultra violet rays of light and transfer them in
blue violet range and fabric looks pure white, it is done by two methods
1. Exhaustion method
2. Padding method
In ANKUR TEXTILES fabric stenter machine is used for P-C blend.
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Packaging
Packaging is an important unit in the Textile mill of Ankur Div. since it produces fabric both
for Export and Local Market with maximum turnover in Export quality. Arvind ankur has two
warehouses for packaging. One main inside the factory and another outside. The outside one
hire labours from various contractors while the main warehouse has its own labours working
for Arvind.
The main warehouse is used for packing and storing of export quality fabrics which are
exported to various foreign countries like Dubai, Switzerland, Mauritius etc. Packaging is
carried out in Roll form and folded form. Proper care is taken for packing of Aroma finished
fabrics which are cut into smaller units and packed in plastic bags. The special aroma finished
fabrics retain its smell till 7-8 wash with this type of packing.
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Conclusion
This textile internship for two weeks provided us a great opportunity to
learn and experience all the processes involved in making a fabric from
the fiber stage till the finished fabric in a textile industry. Also through this
we had an opportunity to visit Ahmedabad regarded as the textile hub of
India. We came to know about the culture and had an experience to
interact with the people. This experience will help us in understanding the
basics of a Garment Industry and will be helpful in pursuing our career in
this field.
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