WO2020220277A1

WO2020220277A1 - Cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion

Info

Publication number: WO2020220277A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/085225
Authority: WO
Inventors: Di Wu
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2019-04-30
Filing date: 2019-04-30
Publication date: 2020-11-05
Also published as: CN114007573A; JP2022531108A; KR20220002298A

Abstract

A cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprises: (i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount of above 0.75%by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and (ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount of above 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition on the keratin material.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion.

BACKGROUND ART

The skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body form physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacterial, viruses or fungi) . The skin of the human body comprises the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis is the top layer of the skin, and its superficial layer is called the stratum corneum.

The development of formulations dedicated to caring for and/or making up the skin and/or lips, is permanent. Said formulations have to show satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as easy usage, and also in terms of sensory, such hydration and/or moisturizing feeling after application.

For various reasons associated in particular with greater comfort of use (softness, emollience and the like) , current compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.

Oil-in-water emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, afresher, less greasy and lighter feel than water-in-oil emulsions.

In skin care routine, cream is an essential step for skincare such as antiaging, whitening and hydration. Efforts have also been made to introduce active ingredients, such as antiaging agents, hydration agents, and/or skin whitening ingredients, for example, Baicalin, symwhite, etc., into the oil-in-water emulsions.

Consumers are seeking for cream with nourishing sensory/efficacy but light-fresh skin finish. A cream with yogurt-like texture can meet such requirement.

Currently, the yogurt-like texture of some cosmetic products is mainly provided by acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate Copolymer.

However, it requires the pH value of the cosmetic product to be more than 6.0 for acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate Copolymer providing yogurt-like texture, which is not suitable for many actives showing its efficacy at lower pH, like Baicalin, which is active at pH of about 5.5, and symwhite, which is active at a pH of below 5.0. When pH is adjusted to a lower pH value (pH<6.0) , the yogurt texture can’t be obtained by acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer.

Thus, there is a need to formulate a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, which has a yogurt-like texture, even at a pH of less than 6.0.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by a unique combination of two specific polymers.

Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:

(i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount of above 0.75%by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and

(ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount of above 0.1%by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The composition according to the present invention can present a yogurt-like texture, even at a pH of less than 6.0.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention shows a yogurt-like texture, which has good cosmetic properties, in particular moisturizing and/or softening of a keratin material without greasy feelings.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally has a viscosity falling into the range of 40-70 UD (M3) , as measured at 25℃ using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm from the company ProRheo. Aviscosity in the range of 40-70 UD (M3) is desirable for a cream.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention also demonstrates a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process upon application.

According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention on the keratin material.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails. Human skin, in particular facial skin, is most particularly considered according to the present invention.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:

Aqueous phase

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C ₂ to C ₈ lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as further illustrated below.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30%to 95%by weight, preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 60%to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Oil phase

The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil phase, dispersed in the aqueous phase as described above.

The nature of the oil phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not critical.

In particular, the oil phase comprises at least one oil.

The term oil refers to any fatty material. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm ²/min, inclusive.

The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm ²/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3m ³ chambertemperature-controlled at a temperature of 25℃, and humidity-controlled with a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed toward the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface area unit (cm ²) and pertime unit (minute) .

The oil that is suitable forthe present invention are not limited, it may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based orfluorine-based.

The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Preferably, the oil phase comprises at least oil being solid at room temperature (about 25℃) .

Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrocarbonated oils and silicone oils.

Mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based volatile oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially branched C ₈-C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈-C ₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold underthe trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C ₈-C ₁₆ branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof. Isododecane or isohexadecane are preferred.

As non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:

-hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for instance liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam sold bythe company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane of synthetic or plant origin;

-hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin based on triglycerides made up of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths, it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, in particular the triglycerides of a fatty acid containing in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic acid triglycerides, octanoic acid triglycerides and capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, or else hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, muscat rose oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cereal (maize, wheat, barley, rye) germ oil, shea butter oil; esters of fatty acids, in particular having from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;

-synthetic esters of formula R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, isodecyl neopentanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate;

-C ₈-C ₂₆ higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;

-C ₈-C ₂₆ higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;

-synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon atoms;

-silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at ambient temperature, and that are optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes, liquid 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, optionally substituted with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, for instance alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids or fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl methicone copolyols; liquid fluorosilicones; and

-mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the oil is selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at ambient temperature and synthetic esters of formula R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atom.

Preferably, the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferablyfrom 3 wt. %to 40 wt. %and more preferablyfrom 5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Hydrophilic anionic associative polymer

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer.

Hydrophilic anionic associative polymers can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating together or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain.

The hydrophilic anionic associative polymer of the present invention is preferably obtained bythe copolymerization between 1) and 2) :

1) at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono or dicarboxylic acid monomer substituted by at least one, linear or branched, (C ₁-C ₁₀) alkyl group; and

2) at least one associative monomer which is an ester of formula (I) :

A-O- (Alk-O) _z- (CH ₂) _w-R ^a (I)

wherein:

A represents a ethylenically unsaturated acyclic residue, optionally containing an additional carboxylic group or its salt, wherein said additional carboxylic group may be esterified with a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₂₀) alkyl group;

R ^a represents a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₃₀) alkyl group, alkylaryl or arylalkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched, preferably R ^a represents (C ₁-C ₂₀) alkyl group, alkylphenyl or phenylakyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched;

Alk represents a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₆) alkylene group, particularly Alk represents –CH ₂-CH (R ^b) –wherein R ^b represents a hydrogen atom, or a (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl group;

z is an integer comprised inclusively between 0 and 50;

w is an integer comprised inclusively between 0 and 30;

with the proviso that (I) contains at least one carboxyl group C (O) OH, or C (O) O-Q ⁺wherein Q ⁺represents a cation chosen from an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, or ammonium.

By polymerization of 1) and 2) , it must be understood as copolymerization between at least one monomer 1) with at least one monomer 2) .

According to an embodiment of the invention, the copolymer is obtained by the polymerization between at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono or dicarboxylic acid monomer of formula (a) and at least one associative monomer which is an ester of formula (I) as defined herein before or of formula (b) :

wherein:

R’ _a and R’ _b, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₆) alkyl group, preferably R’ _a and R’ _b represent hydrogen atom;

R’ _c and R” _c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₆) alkyl group, aC (O) OX group, or a–alk-C (O) OX group wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium and–alk-represents a (C ₁-C ₆) alkylene group such as methylene group, preferably R’ _cand/or R” _c represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or a (C ₁-C ₆) alkyl group;

R ₂ represents a linear or branched (C ₆-C ₄₀) alkyl group, preferably a (C ₁₀-C ₃₀) alkyl group;

n is an integer comprised inclusively between 5 and 100, particularly between 10 and 50, more particularly between 20 and 40, preferably between 20 and 30 such as 25;

with the proviso that (a) or (b) contain at least one carboxyl group C (O) OH, or C (O) O-Q ⁺wherein Q ⁺represents a cation chosen from an alkali metal ion, alkaline earth metal ion or ammonium.

Particularly R’ _a , R’ _b represent a hydrogen atom and R’ _c, and R” _c represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal.

According to another variant, R’ _a , R’ _b, and R’ _c, represent a hydrogen atom and R” _c represents a group–alk-C (O) OX such as–CH ₂-C (O) OX wherein X is as defined herein before.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer contains units (A) and/or (B) :

wherein:

R’ _a , R’ _b, R’ _c, R” _c are as defined herein before;

x represents an integer, preferably more than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000;

y represents an integer, preferably more than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000; and

x+y represents an integer, preferably>200, more preferably between 200 and 20000.

According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic associative polymer of the present invention has a molecular weight of more than 100000, preferably between 200000 and 8000000.

According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (A) and (B) , R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or an alkaline earth metal.

As example of copolymer (a) / (b) as defined herein before, usable in the invention, we may mention: acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from 3V under the trade name

W2000, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical) under the trade name Acylun ^TM 28, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical) under the trade name Aculyn ^TM22 polymer, acrylates /steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from AkzoNobel under the trade name Structure 2001, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from AkzoNobel under the trade name Structure 3001, acrylates/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate /beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/palmeth-25 methacrylates copolymer, acrylate/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from Sigma-3V under the trade name Polygel W 40, and mixtures thereof.

Among the hydrophilic anionic associative polymers mentioned above, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical) under the trade name Acylun ^TM28 is preferred.

Preferably the at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.8%to 6%by weight, preferably from 1%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Cellulose-based thickening polymer

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one one cellulose-based thickening polymer.

Preferably, the cellulose-based thickening polymer useful in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is selected from hydroxy (C ₁-C ₆) alkylcelluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses) , carboxy (C ₁-C ₆) alkylcelluloses, and mixture thereof.

More preferably, the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydroxymethylcelluloses, methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mixed (poly) hydroxy (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl- (C ₁-C ₄) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses.

In some embodiments, the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxy (C ₁-C ₆) alkylcelluloses.

In one embodiment, the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses.

Preferably the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2%to 6%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 0.25%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Emulsifying surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally comprise at least one emulsifying surfactants (or emulsifiers) , preferably selected from anionic and nonionic emulsifying surfactants.

For anionic emulsifying surfactants, mention can be made to stearic acid, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C ₁₀-C ₃₀ and in particular C ₁₂-C ₂₀ fatty acids, in particular metal stearates, and mixtures thereof.

For nonionic emulsifying surfactants, mention can be made to esters of polyols and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, such as glyceryl esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acid, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; polyethylene glycol esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acid, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sorbitol esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acids of the sugar ethers of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Glyceryl esters of fatty acids include in particular glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-and/or tri-glyceryl stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

As ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid, there may be mentioned in particular the polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di-and/or tri-stearate, polyethylene glycol) , especially polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO (CTFA name PEG-40 stearate) , polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 EO (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) , polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100) stearate and mixtures thereof.

One can also use mixtures of such surfactants, such as for example product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate sold under the name SIMULSOL

by the company SEPPIC.

As fatty alcohol ethers, mentions can be made of, for example, ethers of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) . There may be mentioned for example, ethers having from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

There may be mentioned as examples of sugar mono-or polyalkyl esters or ethers of methylglucose isostearate sold under the name

by Degussa Goldschmidt, or sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta

by the company Croda, and sucrose stearate, marketed under the name RYOTO sugar ester S

by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and lauryl marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren

and

Plantaren, cetostearylglucoside mixed with alcohol Cetostearyl, for example, under the name Montanov

by Seppic under the name Tegocare

by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade

by Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl sold under the name Montanov

by the company Seppic.

In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from stearic acid, polyethylene glycol stearate and glyceryl stearate.

Preferably, the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Active ingredients

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one active ingredient for caring for and/or making up a keratin material commonly used in cosmetic field.

As active ingredients, mention can be made to sun-screening agent, vitamins, emollient, hydrating agents, whitening agent, peeling agents, etc.

In one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter as emollient.

The amount of the active ingredient can be that commonly in the cosmetic field.

Additives

In a known manner, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain one or more adjuvants that commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology.

Examples of additives that may be mentioned include preserving agents, fillers, antioxidants, fragrances, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid) , and mixtures thereof.

In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present includes one or more preserving agents.

Suitable preservativing agent include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds (e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol) , benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc. ) , sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetics industries and include salicylic acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldahyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various) , Lactic Acid, and Vitamin E (tocopherol) .

In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present includes one or more fillers.

Suitable fillers include, but are not limited to, mineral or organic origin, natural or synthetic in nature in orderto provide oil absorption or optical effects. Oil absorption fillers may impart a matte effect and non-greasy feeling onto the skin. Optical effects fillers may impart a soft-focus/haze/blur effect to the skin, provide the skin with a more uniform appearance, reduce the appearance of skin imperfections or discoloration, or reduce the visibility of pores.

Mention may be made as examples of oil-absorbing fillers to mica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, ptfe, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.

Mention may be made as examples of optical effects fillers to bismuth oxychloride, silica silylate, boron nitride, iron oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate (and) iron oxides, sodium potassium aluminum silicate.

Mention may be made as examples offillers which provide both oil-absorbing and optical effects: silica, silica (and) methicone, silica (and) methicone, polysilicone-22, polysilicone-8, polysilicone-11, methyl metacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and styrene/acrylates copolymer.

These additives are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and, depending on their nature, they are introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the oil phase.

These additives and the concentrations thereof must be such that they do not modify the desired properties for the composition of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:

(i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer selected from acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/palmeth-25 methacrylates copolymer, acrylate/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1%to 2%by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and

(ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer selected from hydroxy (C ₁-C ₆) alkylcelluloses in an amount ranging from 0.25%to 2%by weight by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Method and use

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and especially human skin.

Thus, in another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention on the keratin material.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally has a viscosity falling into the range of 40-70 UD, which is desirable for a cream.

The viscosity is measured at 25℃, using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm from the company ProRheo.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a yogurt-like texture.

The yogurt rheological property is determined by visual observing whether the cosmetic composition tested is flat and glossy while maintaining in a container and whether the cosmetic composition has similar texture as a thick yogurt when it is dug out with a spoon. Ifthe cosmetic composition tested is flat and glossy while maintaining in the container and the cosmetic composition has similar texture as a thick yogurt when it is dug out with a spoon, then the cosmetic composition is deemed to have a yogurt-like texture.

The cosmetic compositions according to inventive formulas also demonstrate a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process upon application.

The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustration.

The percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient or active matters.

In the examples that follow, the weight percentages are indicated relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Examples

Example 1: Preparation of cosmetic compositions according to invention and comparative formulas

The cosmetic compositions according to invention formulas (inv. ) 1-3 and comparative formula (comp. ) 1-2 listed in the table below were prepared:

Preparation process:

The cosmetic compositions listed above are prepared as follows.

1. Solubilize phase A (water phase) with homogenizer and heat to

2. Heat phase B (oil phase) to

3. Introduce phase B into phase A and keep homogenizing at

for 10 minutes to get oil-in-water emulsion;

4. Add phase D (Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) into the emulsion and homogenize for 10 minutes;

5. Change homogenizer to disperser and cool the emulsion to room temperature, keep agitation;

6. Premix phase E (Silicone) and then introduce phase E under agitation room temperature; and

7. Adjust the pH value of the formula to 5.5 with phase H.

Example 2: evaluation of the cosmetic compositions of invention and comparative formulas

The viscosity of cosmetic compositions according to invention formulas and comparative formula prepared in Example 1 were measured at 25℃, using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm from the company ProRheo.

After formulation 24h, the yogurt rheological property is determined by visual observing whether the cosmetic composition tested is flat and glossy while maintaining in a container and whether the cosmetic composition has similar texture as a thick yogurt when it is dug out with a spoon. Ifthe cosmetic composition tested is flat and glossy while maintaining in the container and the cosmetic composition has similar texture as a thick yogurt when it is dug out with a spoon, then the cosmetic composition is deemed to have a yogurt-like texture.

The viscosity and yogurt-like texture characteristic of the cosmetic compositions according to invention formulas and comparative formulas were summarized below.

Fla.	Viscosity (M3) /UD	Yogurt-like texture or not
Inv. 1	51.3/45.0*	Y
Inv. 2	61.5/60.5	Y
Inv. 3	58.0/66.5	Y
Comp. 1	29.9/19.9	N
Comp. 2	39.6/30.0	N

*: the value read at 30 seconds from the start of test; **: the value read at 10 minutes from the start of test.

It can be seen that the cosmetic compositions according to comparative formulas do not have a yogurt-like texture and has too low viscosity, which is undesirable for a cream.

Meanwhile, the cosmetic compositions according to inventive formulas have a yogurt-like texture and have desirable viscosity.

According to a consumer test involving 20 women of age of 20-40, the cosmetic compositions according to inventive formulas demonstrate a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process upon application.

Claims

Acosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:

(i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer in an amount of above 0.75%by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and

(ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer in an amount of above 0.1%by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is selected from the copolymers obtained by the polymerization between at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono or dicarboxylic acid monomer of formula (a) and at least one associative monomer of formula (b) :

wherein:

R’ _a and R’ _b, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₆) alkyl group;

R’ _c and R” _c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₆) alkyl group, aC (O) OX group, or a–alk-C (O) OX group wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium and–alk-represents a (C ₁-C ₆) alkylene group, preferably R’ _cand/or R” _c represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or a (C ₁-C ₆) alkyl group;

R ₂ represents a linear or branched (C ₆-C ₄₀) alkyl group, preferably a (C ₁₀-C ₃₀) alkyl group;

n is an integer comprised inclusively between 5 and 100;

with the proviso that (a) or (b) contain at least one carboxyl group C (O) OH, or C (O) O-Q ⁺wherein Q ⁺represents a cation chosen from an alkali metal ion, alkaline earth metal ion or ammonium.
Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer contains units (A) and/or (B) :

wherein:

R’ _a and R’ _b, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₆) alkyl group;

R’ _c and R” _c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C ₁-C ₆) alkyl group, aC (O) OX group, or a –alk-C (O) OX group wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium and–alk-represents a (C ₁-C ₆) alkylene group, preferably R’ _c and/or R” _c represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

x represents an integer between 100 and 10000;

y represents an integer between 100 and 10000; and

x+y represents an integer between 200 and 20000.
Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is selected from acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/palmeth-25 methacrylates copolymer, acrylate/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from 0.8%to 6%by weight, preferably from 1%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe cosmetic composition.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxy (C ₁-C ₆) alkylcelluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses) , carboxy (C ₁-C ₆) alkylcelluloses, and mixture thereof.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydroxymethylcelluloses, methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mixed (poly) hydroxy (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl- (C _1-C ₄) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in the cosmetic composition ofthe present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2%to 6%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 0.25%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant, preferably selected from anionic and nonionic emulsifying surfactants.
Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition ofthe present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight ofthe cosmetic composition.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-10, further comprising at least one active ingredient for caring for and/or making up a keratin material.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition ofthe present invention in an amount ranging from 30%to 95%by weight, preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 60%to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe cosmetic composition.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 40 wt. %and more preferably from 5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight ofthe cosmetic composition.
Acosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:

(i) at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer selected from acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/palmeth-25 methacrylates copolymer, acrylate/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1%to 2%by weight ofthe total weight of the cosmetic composition; and

(ii) at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer selected from hydroxy (C ₁-C ₆) alkylcelluloses in an amount ranging from 0.25%to 2%by weight by weight ofthe total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Acosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-14 on the keratin material.