WO2007054824A2

WO2007054824A2 - O/w emulsion containing a gemini surfactant

Info

Publication number: WO2007054824A2
Application number: PCT/IB2006/003877
Authority: WO
Inventors: Angeles Fonolla Moreno
Original assignee: L'oréal
Priority date: 2005-09-30
Filing date: 2006-09-28
Publication date: 2007-05-18
Also published as: WO2007054824A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, containing (1) at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I): (2) at least one tetrapolymer of methacrylic acid, of methyl methacrylate, of butyl acrylate and of C16-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and (3) at least one 2 - acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer. The invention also relates to the use of the composition especially for moisturizing the skin and treating dry and/or sensitive skin.

Description

O/W EMULSION CONTAINING A GEMINI SURFACTANT

The present invention relates to an O/W emulsion comprising a gemini surfactant and a particular polymer, and to the use of the said emulsion for caring for, removing makeup from and/or cleansing facial or bodily skin, including the lips and/or the eyes

(eyelids), and also for haircare, and more particularly to the use of the said emulsion for moisturizing the skin and caring for dry and/or sensitive skin.

It is known practice to use gemini surfactants in cosmetic compositions. In the context of the present invention, the term "gemini surfactant" means compounds comprising two hydrophilic heads and two hydrophobic tails linked together via a spacer. These surfactants have already been described as being useful in cosmetic compositions (WO-A-96/14926) , in particular in hair or skin cleansing compositions (EP-O 915 945) or in pearlescent concentrates used in cleansing compositions, optionally in combination with hydroxy acids and vitamins such as retinol or tocopherol, or derivatives thereof such as diascorbyl palmitate (WO-A-01/74979) .

Gemini surfactants have a quite specific structure since they comprise two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, which gives them not only surfactant properties but also highly appreciated properties associated with their specific structure that is similar to that of ceramides, which allows them to have similar properties to ceramides, in particular moisturizing properties, without having the formulation drawbacks of ceramides, which are difficult to incorporate and can form crystals. Moreover, these gemini surfactants have a very low surface tension, and have good emulsifying properties for the preparation of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. In addition, they are flexible molecules of very small size, similar to that of micelles, and are much less irritant than other surfactants. Furthermore, they show very good affinity for the skin and the hair and reduce lipoperoxidation, i.e. oxidation of the lipids that protect the hair, this oxidation causing dehydration and loss of colour. In addition, they are excellent wetting agents.

However, when they are used in 0/W emulsions containing a large amount of oily phase, these surfactants have the drawback of giving compositions that do not have good cosmetic properties. Specifically, the compositions obtained are heavy on application since they do not slide well on the skin, they spread poorly and are considered as being absorbed too quickly. Consequently, these emulsions are not fresh enough and, once absorbed onto the skin, a coarse, dragging effect is observed. As a result, the consumer has a negative sensation during application to the skin, despite good moisturizing properties.

There is thus still a need for an O/W emulsion containing a gemini surfactant, which has good cosmetic properties, especially when it contains a large amount of oily phase. The desired cosmetic properties are a pleasant and soft effect on application, a fresh effect, no dragging or coarse effect, and good slipperiness when applied to the skin.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that the problem can be solved by combining the gemini surfactant with two particular polymers.

One subject of the present invention is thus a composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and containing (1) at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I) :

in which:

- Ri and R₃ denote, independently of each other, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

- R₂ denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

- X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group -(C₂H₄O)₃-(C₃H₆O_bZ in which

• Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH₂-COOM, -SO₃M, -P(O) (OM)₂, -C₂H₄-SO₃M, -C₃H₆-SO₃M or -CH₂(CHOH)₄CH₂OH, in which M and M' represent H or an alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium ion,

• a ranges from 0 to 15,

• b ranges from 0 to 10, and

• the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and

- n ranges from 1 to 10, (2) at least one tetrapolymer of methacrylic acid, of methyl methacrylate, of butyl acrylate and of Ci₆-C_2O alkyl (meth) acrylate, and (3) at least one 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer.

The 0/W emulsion obtained has good cosmetic properties, since it gives a fresh effect, has no dragging or coarse effect, and applies easily to the skin without leaving a greasy film, while at the same time penetrating well.

The presence of the gemini surfactant has the advantage of improving the cosmetic properties of an 0/W emulsion containing a tetrapolymer as claimed, compared with the same emulsion containing a surfactant other than a gemini surfactant. Specifically, the 0/W emulsions containing this tetrapolymer have a tendency to give a large "quick-break" effect, and the addition of the gemini surfactant reduces this effect. The quick-break effect results in rapid release of the fatty phase in the form of oil droplets, to the extent that the cream slides over the skin. However, when this effect is too great, the cream skates during application to the skin, and the excessive amount of oil droplets can create an unpleasant film resulting in shiny skin, and making the absorption of oil difficult. Addition of the gemini surfactant allows faster penetration of the emulsion without a greasy film remaining.

In addition, the combination of the two polymers (terpolymer and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer) makes it possible to obtain a composition with good stability, while at the same time avoiding the use of an excessive amount of terpolymer, which might give a composition that is too slippery on the skin and that thus penetrates poorly. This also makes it possible to incorporate a large amount of polyols without having the tacky effect of polyols.

The composition of the invention moreover has very good moisturizing properties and a strong barrier effect, while at the same time being well tolerated and pleasant to use (immediate comfort) . A significant reduction in the dryness and roughness of the skin, compared with an analogous O/W emulsion not containing the combination of tetrapolymer and 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer, has been observed.

The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin and thus comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin and/or the integuments, it is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and that does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to put the consumer off using this composition. This composition may especially constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition, especially a composition that soothes and nourishes the skin, makes the skin more comfortable, supple and soft, and protects the skin against external attack. This composition is suitable for any type of skin, and particularly sensitive skin.

Gemini surfactant

The gemini surfactant of formula (I) used according to the invention is preferably such that each of the groups R₁-CO- and R₃-CO- contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (predominantly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid) .

In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the group -SO₃M in which M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as a sodium ion.

The spacer R₂ advantageously consists of a linear Ci-C₃ alkylene chain and preferably an ethylene chain (CH₂CH₂) .

Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

A surfactant of this type is in particular the surfactant identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: O

(PEG-15)-SO₃Na cocoyl—C~N ,/

CH₂ CH-, cocoyl-C-N_₍p_EG._{j 5)}__sθ3Na O

where PEG represents the OCH₂CH₂ group and cocoyl represents a coconut fatty acid residue.

This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that of ceramide-3.

Preferably, the gemini surfactant according to the invention is used as a mixture with other surfactants and especially as a mixture with (a) a glyceryl ester of a C₆-C₂2 fatty acid (preferably of Ci₄-C_2O such as a stearate) , (b) a glycerol diester of a C₆-C₂₂ fatty acid

(preferably of Ci₄-C₂O such as a stearate) and of citric acid, and (c) a Ci₀-C₃₀ fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol) .

More preferentially, the gemini surfactant according to the invention represents from 10% to 20% by weight and advantageously 15% by weight; the glyceryl ester of a Cg-C₂₂ fatty acid represents from 30% to 40% by weight and advantageously 35% by weight; the glycerol diester of a C₆-C₂₂ fatty acid and of citric acid represents from 10% to 20% by weight and advantageously 15% by weight; and the C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty alcohol represents from 30% to 40% by weight and advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of surfactants containing the gemini surfactant.

As a variant, the gemini surfactant according to the invention may be used as a mixture with an anionic surfactant such as a lauric acid ester or sodium lauryl lactate. In this case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30% to 50% by weight and the anionic surfactant represents from 50% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

The gemini surfactant may be used, for example, as a mixture with other surfactants in the form of products sold by the company Sasol under the name Ceralution^®, and especially the following products: • Ceralution" H: behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoyl- ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate,

• Ceralution" F: sodium lauroyl lactylate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, • Ceralution^® C: aqua, capric/caprylic triglyceride, glycerine, ceteareth-25, sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, gum arabic, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, butyl paraben, isobutyl paraben (INCI names) .

This gemini surfactant represents from 3% to 50% of the weight of these mixtures.

The amount (as active material) of gemini surfactant incorporated into the composition according to the invention may vary within a wide range as a function of the desired effect. To give an order of magnitude, the composition may contain from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight of gemini surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, which represents an amount of Ceralution of about 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Tetrapolymer

The tetrapolymer used according to the invention comprises, as monomers, methacrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate and a C₁₆-C₂₀ alkyl

(meth) acrylate . It preferably contains (a) from 0.5% to

10% by weight and advantageously from 1% to 2% by weight of methacrylic acid; (b) from 10% to 90% by weight and advantageously from 10% to 40% by weight of methyl methacrylate; (c) from 10% to 90% by weight and advantageously from 30% to 50% by weight of butyl acrylate; and (d) from 25% to 75% by weight and advantageously from 25% to 35% by weight of C₁₆-C₂₀ alkyl (meth) acrylate. The total of (a) + (b) + (c) + (d) makes 100%.

The term ^VλC₁₆-C2o alkyl (meth) acrylates" means one or more monomers consisting of alkyl acrylate or of alkyl methacrylate or of a mixture of alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl chain of which contains from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. It is preferably a mixture of monomers, consisting of Ci₆, C₁B and C₂0 alkyl acrylate and of Ci₆, Ci₈ and C₂o alkyl methacrylate. The alkyl (meth) acrylates used in the composition of the invention preferably comprise a mixture of cetyl methacrylate and of eicosyl acrylate preferably also with stearyl acrylate, for example from 25% to 35% by weight of cetyl methacrylate, from 55% to 65% by weight of stearyl acrylate and from 5% to 15% by weight of eicosyl acrylate.

Tetrapolymers as defined above and the process for preparing them are described in particular in patent application US 2003/0021847.

These tetrapolymers may be prepared by emulsion polymerization of the monomers indicated above in the presence of a free-radical initiator, such as hydrogen peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide or sodium, potassium, lithium or ammonium persulfate, the initiator being optionally combined with a reducing agent to form a redox system and with a catalyst consisting of a transition metal such as a copper or iron salt. The reaction may be performed, for example, at a temperature of between 10 and 120⁰C and preferably in the region of 85°C, for a time of approximately three hours .

A tetrapolymer of this type is in particular available from the company Rohm & Haas under the trade name Allianz OPT in the form of a water-glycol dispersion containing 48% active material, and containing 6% propylene glycol (INCI name: Acrylates/C12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer (and) propylene glycol) .

The amount of tetrapolymer (as active material) in the composition according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 1% by weight of tetrapolymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

The tetrapolymer is generally introduced into the aqueous phase before forming the emulsion.

2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer

The composition according to the invention contains one or more 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid

(AMPS) polymers. The term "2-acrylamido-2-methylpro- panesulfonic acid polymer" means both homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are possibly crosslinked and/or neutralized.

A homopolymer that may especially be mentioned is the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (INCI name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) .

Copolymers that may especially be mentioned include: - crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS which are in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/Cl3-14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7 ) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/Poly- sorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the products sold under the name Aristoflex AVC by the company Clariant, hydrophobic-modified AMPS polymers such as, especially, the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated (8 EO) C₁₂-Ci₄ alcohol methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex LNC by the company Clariant; the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated (25 EO) stearyl methacrylate (copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, obtained from Genapol T-250 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant, the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated (8 EO) Ci₂-Ci₈ alcohol methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol T-080 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex SNC by the company Clariant.

The AMPS polymer (s) may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The AMPS polymer is generally introduced into the aqueous phase before the formation of the emulsion.

Oily phase

The oily phase consists of oils and of any other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase contains at least one oil. The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) .

As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R¹COOR² and R¹OR² in which R¹ represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R² represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631) ; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam^® oil;

- fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol; partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, for instance those described in document JP-A-2 295 912; - silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes

(cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclo- pentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethyl- phenylsiloxanes ;

- mixtures thereof. In the list of oils mentioned above, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid or oleic acid; waxes, for instance lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes, for instance polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes, and Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoro- propyldimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol) ; and silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the name "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

The oily phase generally represents from 10% to 50% by weight and preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

Conventionally, the aqueous phase may contain, besides water, one or more water-soluble solvents chosen from polyols (or polyhydric alcohols) and water-soluble lower alcohol (s), and mixtures thereof. The term "lower alcohol" means an alcohol containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol; glycols, for instance pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose and sucrose; and mixtures thereof. Examples of lower alcohols that may be mentioned include ethanol, isopropanol and butanol, and mixtures thereof. When they are present in the composition of the invention, the solvent (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred mode of the invention, the composition contains at least one polyol . The amount of polyol(s) may range, for example, from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight and even better still from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

One particular composition of the invention contains at least 5% by weight of polyol (s) relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 5% to 15% by weight of polyol (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition should be compatible with the skin and preferably ranges from 4.5 to 8, better still from 5 to 7.5 and even better still from 5.5 to 7.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used in the fields under consideration and especially in cosmetics or dermatology. Among the standard adjuvants that may be contained in the compositions used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of preserving agents such as parabens and phenoxyethanol; sequestrants (EDTA) ; antioxidants; fragrances; dyestuffs such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres; matting fillers, tensioning agents, bleaching agents or exfoliants; sunscreens; hydrophilic or lipophilic cosmetic or dermatological active agents; polymers; electrolytes. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include water-soluble or liposoluble vitamins, for instance vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C

(ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; antiseptics; antibacterial active agents, for instance 2,4,4'- trichloro-2' -hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) , 3, 4, 4' -trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) ; antiseborrhoeic agents; antimicrobial agents such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan, azelaic acid and niacin (vitamin PP) ; slimming agents such as caffeine; optical brighteners; moisturizers such as polyols, for instance glycerol and urea derivatives such as the compounds of formula:

in which: Rl, R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group possibly containing from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups, in which at least one of the radicals Rl to R4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group, and also salts, solvates and isomers thereof, such as, especially, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea sold under the name "Hydrovance" by the company National Starch; calmatives, for instance bisabolol and calmative plant extracts, for instance extracts of rose (Rosa gallica) and extracts of mint (Mentha piperita) ; and any active agent suitable for the final purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of active agents depends on the desired purpose. The active agent (s) may be present, for example, in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents other than the terpolymer and the AMPS polymer may be incorporated into the composition. The hydrophilic gelling agents, i.e. agents that are soluble or dispersible in water, may be chosen, for example, from modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) and Pemulen (INCI name: Acrylates/ClO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Noveon; polyacrylamides; polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance guar gum, alginates and modified or unmodified celluloses; and mixtures thereof. These gelling agents may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.001% to 2% by weight and preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As fillers that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include silica; zinc oxides; titanium oxides such as titanium dioxide; micas of natural or synthetic origin; calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB150 by the company Myoshi; talc; kaolin; glass and ceramic beads sold by the company 3M under the trade name Macrolite; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; polyamide particles and especially those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; non-expanded synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, polyamide (for example

Nylon or poly-β-alanine) powders, acrylate copolymer

(for example the microporous microspheres sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade name Polytrap) powders, polymethacrylic acid powders and Teflon" (polytetrafluoroethylene) powders, for instance the products sold under the name Fluon by the company Uniqema; expanded powders such as hollow thermoplastic microspheres prepared via known processes, for instance those described in documents US-A-3 615 972 and EP-A-O 56 219, and especially the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn, wheat or rice starch, such as the powders of starch crosslinked with octenyl succinate anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and mixtures thereof. When they are present, these fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also optionally contain surfactants other than the gemini surfactant, in particular nonionic surfactants, especially those chosen from polyol esters of a fatty acid with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; polyethylene glycol esters of a C₈-C₂₄ fatty acid, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sorbitol esters of a Cs-C₂^ fatty acid, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of a C₈-C₂₄ fatty acid, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional compound (s) to be added to the compositions according to the invention, and the concentration thereof, such that the advantageous properties of these compositions are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a milk or a more or less fluid cream. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is a more or less fluid cream. Thus, this composition preferably has a viscosity at 25°C ranging from about 10 to 150 poises (1 to 15 Pa. s), preferably from about 15 to 100 poises (1.5 to 10 Pa. s) and better still from 20 to 50 poises (2 to 5 Pa. s), this viscosity being measured with a Rheomat 180 machine at 25°C with suitable spindles (spindle No. 3 for the fluid compositions and spindle No. 4 for the creams) . The compositions of the invention may be used on any keratin material, such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or mucous membranes. They may be used as a skincare product, for example as a protective, treating or care cream for the face, hands or body, as a body milk for protecting or caring for the skin, the scalp or mucous membranes, or as a hygiene product, for instance as a product for cleansing the skin or mucous membranes, or as a haircare product or as an antisun product.

The compositions may also constitute skin and/or hair makeup products, for example by incorporating pigments into the composition to especially constitute foundations .

A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as a skincare product, a hygiene product, a haircare product, an antisun product and a makeup product.

Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, such as the skin, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails or mucous membranes, characterized in that a composition as defined above is applied to the keratin material .

A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for moisturizing the skin, characterized in that a composition as defined above is applied to the keratin material. The composition thus allows maintenance of the barrier function and good treatment of dry skin.

The examples indicated below will allow the invention to be understood more clearly without, however, being limiting in nature. Unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts indicated are weight percentages. The names are given as the chemical name, the trade name and the INCI name depending on the compound.

Example 1

Composition Examplf

PHASE I

Parleam oil 7

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 4

3631)

Dimethicone 0.5

Cyclohexasiloxane 6

Apricot oil 3

Polymethylene wax (synthetic wax) 1

Methyl paraben 0.25

Capryl glycol (or 1, 2-octanediol) 0.3

Vitamin E 0.5

Ceralution H (i.e. about 0.45% sodium .3 dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate)

Squalane 1.5

Liquid paraffin 1

PHASE II

Water qs 100

Allianz OPT 1.5

Hostacerin AMPS 1.8

Glycerol 6

Propylene glycol 2.5

Hydrovance 4

Triethanolamine 0.03

PHASE III

Silica (Sunsphere H51) 0.3

Plastic Powder 0.3

PHASE IV

Bisabolol 0.3

Extract of Rosa gallica 0.6 Extract of Mentha piperita 0.5

HMW 2200 0.2

Procedure : phase II is heated to 45°C. When the gel is formed, phase I preheated to 70⁰C is added. The mixture is stirred and, once the emulsion has formed, the other phases are added in the order indicated (III and then IV) .

A smooth, glossy white cream is obtained, which is homogeneous and spreads well. It is suitable as a skincare cream and is suited to sensitive skin.

Example 2

Composition Example 2

PHASE I

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 4

3631)

C12-15 alkyl benzoate (Tegosoft TN) 5

Dimethicone 1

Caprylic/capric acid (85/15) triglyceride 4

(Miglyol 812)

Cyclopentasiloxane 8

Shea butter 1.2

Polymethylene wax (Synthetic wax) 0.5

Methyl paraben 0.25

Caprylyl glycol 0.25

Vitamin E 0.4

Stearyl dimethicone (emollient) 3

Ceralution H (i.e. about 0.75% sodium 5 dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate)

Dimethiconol 1

PHASE II

Water qs 100

Allianz OPT 1.2

Hostacerin AMPS 1.5

Glycerol 4 Propylene glycol 2

Butylene glycol 3

Triethanolamine 0.02

PHASE III

Silica ^' 0.4

PHASE IV

Bisabolol 0.5

Extract of Mentha piperita 0.4

A homogeneous, smooth, glossy white cream is obtained. It spreads easily and has a soft feel, is suitable as a skincare cream and is suited to sensitive skin.

Claims

1. Composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and containing (1) at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I):

in which:

- X and Y denote, independently of each other, a group -(C₂H₄O) _a- (C₃H₆O) _bZ in which

• a ranges from 0 to 15,

• b ranges from 0 to 10, and • the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and

- n ranges from 1 to 10,

(2) at least one tetrapolymer of methacrylic acid, of methyl methacrylate, of butyl acrylate and of Ci₆-C_2O alkyl (meth) acrylate, and (3) at least one 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that each of the groups Ri-CO- and R₃-CO- contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that each of the groups Ri-CO- and R₃-CO- denotes a coconut fatty acid residue.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, for each of the radicals

X and Y, the sum of a and b has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20.

5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that, for each of the radicals X and

Y, the sum of a and b has a mean value equal to 15.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that Y is a group -SO₃M in which M is an alkali metal ion such as a sodium ion.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the spacer R₂ consists of a linear C₁-C₃ alkylene chain, preferably an ethylene chain.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that n is equal to 1.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant of formula (I) has the following structure:

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gemini surfactant is mixed with (a) a glyceryl ester of a Cg-C₂₂ fatty acid, (b) a glycerol diester of a Cg-C₂₂ fatty acid and of citric acid, and (c) a C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty alcohol.

11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the gemini surfactant represents from 10% to 20% by weight; the glyceryl ester of a C₆-C₂₂ fatty acid represents from 30% to 40% by weight; the glycerol diester of a Cg-C₂₂ fatty acid and of citric acid represents from 10% to 20% by weight; and the C₁₀-C₃₀ fatty alcohol represents from 30% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gemini surfactant represents from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the tetrapolymer comprises from 1% to 2% by weight of methacrylic acid, from 10% to 90% by weight of methyl methacrylate, from 10% to 90% by weight of butyl acrylate and from 25% to 75% by weight of Ci₆-C₂o alkyl (meth) acrylate .

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.1% to 5% by weight of tetrapolymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer is chosen from 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers, which are possibly crosslinked and/or neutralized.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer (s) ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one polyol.

18. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, as a skincare product, a hygiene product, a haircare product, an antisun product and a makeup product.

19. Cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17 is applied to the keratin material .

20. Cosmetic process for moisturizing the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17 is applied to the skin.