WO2020215300A1

WO2020215300A1 - A Hair Wax Composition

Info

Publication number: WO2020215300A1
Application number: PCT/CN2019/084465
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mi CAO; Tan WANG; Xiaoping Liu; Shuiping WU; Fan Wang; Zhaoxia Bao
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.; Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2019-04-26
Filing date: 2019-04-26
Publication date: 2020-10-29
Also published as: WO2020216641A1; CN113573692A

Abstract

A hair wax composition being devoid of oils and waxes from fossil sources, by using alternative oils and waxes compositions are provided with good hair styling properties.

Description

A Hair Wax Composition

Technical field

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation, in particular a hair styling composition, more particularly a hair wax composition. The composition is devoid of oils and waxes from fossil sources. By using alternative oils and waxes very pleasant products for properly styling the hair are made available.

Background art

The entire human body, with the exception of the lips, the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, is covered with hair, albeit for a large part barely visible. Because of the many nerve endings at the hair root, hair reacts sensitively to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. However, nowadays, the most important function of human head hair lies in helping to create the appearance of the person in a characteristic manner. Similarly to the skin, it fulfils a social function because it contributes considerably to interpersonal relations and to the self-esteem of an individual via its outward appearance.

Hair is consisting of hair shaft and hair root. Hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin, and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair. Hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair, which is continually renewed. Hair root which sticks in the skin is the living part of the hair. Hair shaft consists of three layers: the central part, which is called hair marrow (medulla) , is regressed in humans, often completely missing; then there is the marrow, also called cortex; and cuticle as the outermost layer, comprising up to ten horny layers.

The condition of human hair in its freshly grown state is virtually impossible to be improved. The part of the hair in the vicinity of the scalp accordingly has a virtually closed horny layer. In particular, the horny layer, being the external sheath of the hair, and also the inner region below the cuticle are subjected to particular stress by environmental influences.

In many cases naturally grown does not have enough volume and in most cases the naturally grown has not the style an individual prefers. Therefore, there is a large need for styling products providing the hair with volume and an individual style. Several product forms are on the market serving the different preferences of the consumers. There are products, which are applied to the wet hair, for instance mousses and fixing solutions. Upon drying the hair is styled and the style is fixed, mainly by fixing/styling polymers, which are contained in said products. Different forms of styling products are those, which are intended to be applied to the dry hair. Conventional products are hair sprays, which are used to fix already styled hair.

Other types of products, which in general may be applied to dry hair, are hair waxes. Usually, these products are mainly wax-based, containing no or only a small amount of water. Due to the waxes the products are solid or semi-solid and sold in a pot. When a small amount of product is taken out of the container, it is distributed in the hands, thereby warmed up so that the waxes are melting. The product is applied to the hair, which may be styled thereby. The product is cooling down again, which results in a fixing of the hair style. To improve the washing-off of hair waxes emulsifiers are included.

To further improve the washing-off of hair waxes polyethylene glycols or components containing quite a number of ethylene glycol residues are contained in hair waxes. Using this kind of components emulsifiers do not have to be included any longer.

Components giving luster to the hair are often included in hair waxes. In general, these components are oils, which may be of natural or synthetic origin. Examples for natural oils are macadamia oil or almond oil; examples for synthetic oils are silicone oils.

Hair waxes are known and available as aerosol sprays. Said hair waxes additionally contain easily volatile hydrocarbons, such as isodecane and propellant gases.

The aforementioned products are also described in prior art. EP 1792607 A1 describes hair waxes having a pleasant white appearance. To achieve this, di-or polysaccharide polyesters are contained.

US 2005/0163738 A1 discloses hair waxes containing a silicone-free wax, a fluid oil and a silicone wax.

US 2004/0052744 A1 describes a hair wax product comprising at least 40 %of an aqueous or alcoholic carrier and an emulsifier besides the waxes.

US 2004/0115152 A1 discloses hair wax compositions containing polyethylene glycols besides the waxes.

JP 2005314365 A1 describes a spray type hair wax containing a film-forming resin, a liquid ester oil, a semi-solid oil and substantially no water.

In general, hair wax products are characterized by the fact, that waxes are contained. The term "wax" or "wax-like" as used herein, corresponds to the definition of waxes given in Roempp (online version; roempp. thieme. de/roempp4.0, last update referring to waxes being of December 2007) . According to this definition wax substances are plastic, solid to brittle, gross to fine crystalline, transparent to opaque, but not glassy at 20℃, melting without decomposition over 40℃. They have a comparatively low viscosity above their melting point, have a consistency and solubility that is highly dependent on temperature, and are polishable under gentle pressure.

Waxes may be classified as

- natural waxes, (e.g. insect, animal and plant waxes) ,

- fossil waxes (e.g. mineral oil wax or ozokerite) ,

- mineral waxes,

- synthetic waxes (e.g. Fischer-Tropsch waxes, polyolefin waxes, such as polyethylene or polybutene wax, amide waxes) and

- partially synthetic waxes,

- microcrystalline waxes,

- macrocrystalline waxes,

- hydrocarbon waxes, especially solid high-melting paraffin waxes, petrolatum,

- montan wax,

- acid-functionalized hydrocarbon waxes (e.g. obtained by oxidation of hydrocarbon materials, such as polyolefins or paraffin or by copolymerization of ethylene with acid-containing comonomers, such as acrylic acid or vinyl acetates) ,

- polyglycol waxes and

- silicone waxes.

Many of these waxes are derived from mineral oil or from other fossil sources. Said waxes are mainly composed of hydrogenated long carbon chains. In addition, cyclic hydrocarbons being highly alkylated are contained. This fraction may be termed MOSH. A second term used in connection with components derived from fossil source is the term MOAH. Mono-or polycyclic aromatic components, sometimes being highly alkylated, are addressed by this term. In few instances MOAHs may be found in cosmetic raw materials derived from fossil source in traces. It may not be excluded that components classified as MOAH might be involved in producing cancer.

Although all the waxes, which are allowed to be used according the EU Regulation on cosmetic products, are assessed as safe ingredients for cosmetic compositions, the consumer gets aware of the expressions MOSH and MOAH and prefers products, which are not containing raw materials being linked to the terms MOSH and MOAH.

Summary of the invention

Because of the above defects, there was a need to make available compositions for hair care, especially hair waxes, being devoid of waxes and/or oils from fossil sources and at the same time provide styling properties, which are at least as good as the properties of conventional hair wax compositions containing waxes from fossil sources, preferably being better.

Surprisingly, it was found that a hair styling composition, especially a hair wax composition containing

- at least one synthetic wax,

- at least one oil,

- at least one emulsifier,

could solve the above mentioned problems.

According to the present invention the hair wax composition is an aqueous composition, containing 50 to 80 %by weight, preferably 60 to 75 %by weight of water, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention it is preferred, if the hair wax composition is free from waxes and/or oils derived from fossil sources. In the meaning of the present invention the term “free from” means, that ≤ 0.1 %by weight, preferably ≤ 0.001 %by weight and most preferred 0 %by weight of the respective substance are contained.

The at least one synthetic wax used according to the present invention is preferably produced by a method called Fischer Tropsch synthesis. By this method the starting materials are carbon monoxide and hydrogen gas, being converted to mixtures of paraffins and olefins and water. By using waxes produced with this method no aromatic mono-or polycyclic components are contained.

For example a suitable synthetic wax may be purchased from the company Sasaol with the trade name TITANEL.

According to the present invention in the hair wax composition the at least one synthetic wax may be contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 15.0 %by weight, preferably 3.0 to 12.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Natural waxes are derived from natural sources, especially from plants or insects. A well-known wax is beeswax, which is produced by honey bees. It contains a mixture of components, of which palmitate, palmitoleate, and oleate esters of long-chain aliphatic alcohols (30 to 32 carbon atoms) are the main components, with a ratio of 6: 1 for triacontanyl palmitate, having the formula CH ₃ (CH ₂) ₂₉O-CO- (CH ₂) ₁₄CH ₃, to cerotic acid, having the formula CH ₃ (CH2) ₂₄COOH, both being the two principal constituents of beeswax. Beeswax usable in cosmetic compositions may be purchased from Koster Keunen as Permulgin 1550 BDF and/or from Kahl as Kahlwax 2956.

Another source of natural waxes is plants. It is advantageous, if waxes are extracted from the leaves of Copernicia cerifera or from the leaves of Euphorbia cerifera and/or Euphorbia antisyphilitica. The waxes from these plants are known as Carnauba wax and Candilla wax, respectively. For instance, Carnauba wax may be purchased from Kahlas Kahlwax 2442L.

It is preferred, if besides the synthetic wax (es) one or more wax (es) from a natural source, preferably beeswax and/or Carnauba wax is/are contained in the composition of the present invention.

Furthermore cetyl esters may be contained. Cetyl esters are a blend of reaction products of myristyl, cetyl and palmityl alcohols with myristic and palmitic acids, and the main component of cetyl esters being cetyl palmitate. Sometimes, cetyl esters are termed “synthetic waxes” , too. They were introduced as a substitute of spermaceti wax. However, in the meaning of the present invention cetyl esters will be named cetyl esters only. As they are chemically different from the synthetic waxes described above, a precise differentiation of synthetic wax and cetyl esters will be made throughout the present invention.

Moreover synthetic beeswax may be contained in the composition of the present invention. Synthetic beeswax is a manufactured wax, which is a blend of fatty esters (C32-C62) , fatty acids (C16-C36) , fatty alcohols (C16-C36) , and high molecular weight hydrocarbons (C21-C34) . The content of the esters is the highest one, followed by the hydrocarbons, the acids, and the alcohols.

For producing the comparative examples waxes derived from fossil sources were used, such as paraffin, microcrystalline wax and Ozokerite.

The total amount of one or more wax (es) contained in the composition of the present invention ranges from 1.0 to 20.0 %by weight, preferably 3.0 to 15.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention the hair wax compositions contains at least one oil. For differentiating oils from waxes, oils are fluid at room temperature.

According to the present invention the at least one oil may be chosen from the group of lecithins and of fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that the triglycerol esters are fluid at room temperature. For example, the fatty acid triglycerides may advantageously be chosen from the group of synthetic or semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as, caprylic/capric triglyceride, coco-glyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soya oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. It is preferred, if caprylic/capric triglyceride is contained in the composition of the present invention.

According to the present invention the at least one oil may be selected from linear silicone oils.

Silicone oils are synthetic polymeric compounds, in which silicon atoms are joined in a chain-like and/or reticular manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of the silicon are saturated by hydrocarbon radicals (in most cases methyl, less often ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc. ) . Systematically, the silicone oils are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes are the most important compounds of this group in terms of amount and are characterized by the following structural formula:

Wherein n is 2 to about 2000.

The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes are also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI) . Dimethicones have various chain lengths and various molecular weights. For example, a suitable dimethicone may be purchased as SF1000N-350cst from KCC Corporation.

According to the present invention the at least one oil may be selected from the group of esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, with the proviso that said esters are fluid at room temperature. Examples for such ester oils may be octyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and/or C12-15 -alkyl benzoate. It is preferred, if C12-15 -alkyl benzoate is contained in the composition of the present invention.

For producing the comparative examples oils derived from fossil sources were used, for instance liquid paraffin.

According to the invention it is preferred, if one of the oils is chosen from linear silicone oils, especially if one of the oils is a dimethicone. It is further preferred, if one of the oils is chosen from fatty acid triglycerides, especially caprylic/capric triglyceride. It likewise further preferred, if C12-15 alkyl benzoate is contained in the composition of the present invention. It is more preferred, if one or more dimethicone (s) and caprylic/capric triglyceride and/or C12-15alkyl benzoate are contained in the composition of the present invention.

According to the invention the at least one oil is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 15.0 %by weight, preferably 2.0 to 8.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention at least one emulsifier is contained in the composition of the present invention. Emulsifiers are stabilizing emulsions. In general, emulsions are understood as meaning heterogeneous systems, which consist of at least two liquids, which are immiscible or have only a limited miscibility with one another and are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids (water or oil) is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid (water or oil, respectively) . The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally of only a limited stability.

Emulsifiers help to combine two immiscible liquids (for example oil in water) in a way to result in a stable preparation, an emulsion. For that reason emulsifiers have to have an amphiphilic character, the hydrophobic part interacts with the oily or lipid phase and the hydrophilic part interacts with the aqueous phase. By stirring or homogenizing generated droplets are dispersed in the respective environment, namely aqueous droplets in a lipid environment or lipid droplets in an aqueous environment. Primarily, emulsifiers do not have a detersive, surfactant character. Emulsifiers reduce the interfacial tension between the two phases and, besides reducing the interfacial work, also achieve a stabilization of the emulsion formed. They stabilize the formed emulsion by means of interfacial films, as well as by forming steric or electrical barriers, as a result of which the merging (coalescence) of the emulsified particles is prevented.

HLB values are suitable to characterize emulsifiers, said values specify the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier. The HLB value may be determined by the following formula:

HLB=20× (1-M _lipophile/M) ,

where M _lipophile represents the molar mass of the lipophilic fraction of a given emulsifier and M represents the molar mass of the total emulsifier.

In general, emulsifiers with an HLB value up to about 8 are considered to be W/O emulsifiers. By contrast, O/W emulsifiers have HLB values of greater than 8 to 15. Substances with HLB values greater than 15 are often referred to as solubilizers.

Emulsifiers may further be classified in anionic, amphoteric and nonionic emulsifiers. According to the present invention, it is preferred, if nonionic emulsifiers are contained. Examples for nonionic emulsifiers are:

- partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates) , and

- ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids.

Said partial fatty acid esters may be monoglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms. According to the invention it is more preferred, if the emulsifier is a monoglycerol ester of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, especially chosen from the group consisting of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, most preferred is glyceryl monostearate, which may be purchased from BASF as Cutina GMS V.

Ethoxylated derivatives may be polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of from 5 to 200. According to the invention it is more preferred, if the emulsifier is chosen from PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl iso-stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. It is most preferred, if PEG-100 stearate is contained in the composition of the present invention. For example, PEG-100 stearate may be purchased as SP MYRJ S100 MBAL-PA- (SG) ET80149 from Croda.

Ethoxylated fatty alcohols may be chosen from ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols) , examples for said ethoxylated alcohols may be found in the following list: Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20) , polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12) , polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) , polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether (ceteth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20) , polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20) , polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12) , polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15) , polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (laureth-12) , polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (isolaureth-12) , polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20) . According to the present invention it is preferred, if polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20) is contained in the composition of the present invention.

According to the present invention it is advantageous, if two emulsifiers, having different HLB values, in particular three emulsifiers having different HLB values are contained. In a very advantageous embodiment glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20) are contained in the composition of the present invention. It is even more advantageous, if the weight ratio of glyceryl stearate : PEG-100 stearate : polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20) is from 2.5 : 1.5 : 0.45 to 1.5 : 1.5 : 0.45.

According to the invention the at least one emulsifier is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 10.0 %by weight, preferably 2.0 to 5.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one styling polymer is contained in the composition of the present invention. Styling polymers can build up very small bridges between single hairs or hair tresses thereby fixing the hair. Styling polymers are known in prior art. They can be classified as anionic, nonionic and cationic polymers.

According to the invention it is preferred, if at least one nonionic styling polymers is contained in the composition of the present invention. Nonionic styling polymers may be homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, N –Vinylformamids or N-vinylcarprolactam. Suitable are also copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate or vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidon, vinylacetate and propionate or vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidon and dimethylaminomethacrylat. According to the present invention it is preferred, if the homoplymers of vinyl pyrrolidone are contained in the composition of the present invention. Homoplymers of vinyl pyrrolidonemay be purchased as Luviskol K 90 AT 1 Lsg. 20%from BASF.

If at least one styling polymer is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one styling polymer is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the styling polymer.

Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one moisturizer is contained in the composition of the present invention. Moisturizers are hygroscopic substances which bind water and thereby provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfill the same function. Examples of humectants are propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, and/or honey. Preferred moisturizers are hydrogenated starch hydrolysate and/or propylene glycol.

If at least one moisturizer is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one moisturizer is preferably contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 20.0 %by weight, more preferably 5.0 to 15.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one thickener is contained in the composition of the present invention. Thickeners are macromolecules, which have a mainly linear configuration and also have a varying degree of intermolecular forces of interaction permitting secondary and primary valence bonds between individual residues of the molecule and thus the formation of a reticular structure. Thickeners may be water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers, which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or else by absorbing and encapsulating the water into their macromolecules, which may be interwoven; both effects result in restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, whose common feature is their solubility in water or aqueous media. A precondition for the solubility in water is a sufficient high number of hydrophilic groups for ensuring the solubility in water and a limited crosslinking. The hydrophilic groups may be nonionic, anionic, or cationic groups.

Cosmetically relevant thickeners may be classified as follows:

- organic, natural compounds, such as, for example, agar agar, carrageen, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, carob bean flour, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,

- organic, modified natural substances, such as, for example carboxymethylcellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose and the like,

- organic, completely synthetic compounds, such as, for example, polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, inorganic compounds, such as, for example, polysilicic acids, clay minerals, such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas.

According to the present invention it is preferred, if polyacrylates are contained in the composition of the present invention. It is more preferred, if copolymers of C10-30-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid or esters thereof are contained. Even more preferably copolymers with the INCI name "Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer" are chosen. For instance, such a polymer is available under the trade name Carbopol Ultrez 21 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials.

If at least one thickener is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one thickener is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the thickener.

Advantageously, according to the invention additionally at least one preservative is contained in the composition of the present invention. All preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations may be contained. However, it is preferred, if Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, and Phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof are contained. Other preservatives may also be used, for example Benzyl Alcohol, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM Hydantoin. These preservatives may be used alone or in combination or in combination with the above mentioned preferred preservatives.

If at least one preservative is contained in the composition of the present invention, the at least one preservative is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 2.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 1.0 %by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.

The pH value of the composition according to the present invention may be adjusted by all means suitable for a cosmetic composition. However, it is preferred, if suitable amounts of an inorganic or organic base, especially sodium hydroxide and/or potassium hydroxide are contained to adjust the pH value. Advantageously, the composition according the invention has pH values in the range of 5.5 to 8.5, preferably 6.5 to 7.5.

Examples

The examples below are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the particular preparations, given as active content.

Preparation method

The composition of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair wax composition. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.

Specifically, compositions of the present invention and a comparative composition are preferably produced with the following procedure (Table 1 shows the detailed composition of the examples, and Table 3 shows the corresponding trade names and INCI names of the components) :

- Heat the oil phase (for instance, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, PEG-100 Stearat, Synthetic Wax, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Beeswax, Methylparaben and Phenoxyethanol) to 90℃,

- Heat the aqueous phase (for instance water, PEG-32, Propylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trisodium EDTA ) to 90℃,

- Combine both phases whilst stirring, then homogenize the batch until the appearance is homogeneous,

- Add Sodium Hydroxide and water, stir continuously and homogenize,

- Cool down to 45℃,

- Add the styling polymer (for instance, PVP) and fragrance,

- Stir continuously and cool to room temperature.

Test method

In order to show that hair wax compositions containing no waxes or oils of fossil source have comparable properties in relation to styling, hold, and spreadability as those containing raw materials from fossil source a tress test was conducted. The test was carried out through the following procedure:

Compositions according to the invention (examples 1.1, 2 to 5) and comparative compositions (example 1, 6 to 11) were prepared, the compositions according to the invention containing no waxes and no oils from fossil source, whereas the comparative examples did contain waxes and/or oil from fossil source.

The 3-D hair tresses were washed using a standard shampoo, then rinsed until no shampoo and other residues remained. The tresses were allowed to dry at room temperature. 1.0 g of the styling composition was evenly spread on a 8g dry hair tress. Ten trained panelist evaluated spreadability by giving points how easy or difficult is was to spread the respective composition on the hair. The easier the spreading was, the more point the respective composition received. The styling effect was evaluated by giving points how easy it was to make the hair stand (from horizontal level to vertical one) . The easier it was to bring the hair to stand, the more points the respective composition received. The hold effect was evaluated by determining how long the style of the hair tresses lasted. The longer, the more point the respective composition received.

Each parameter was rated with a score value between 1 and 10, whereby 1 means “bad” , and 10 corresponds to very good.

Table 3: Trade name and INCI of the compounds:

Looking at the overall evaluation it becomes apparent, that in average the hair wax compositions containing a synthetic wax produced by the Fischer Tropsch synthesis (termed Synthetic Wax) (examples 1.1, 2 to 5) are evaluated a little better than the compositions containing raw materials from fossil source (examples 1, 6 to 11) . Therefore it is shown that the compositions of the present invention do have properties, which are at least at the same level as or even better than those compositions containing waxes and oils from fossil source.

Looking at the evaluation in more detail, it becomes obvious, that compositions that have very good evaluations in relation to spreadability, mostly have worse evaluations referring to the styling and hold effect (examples 2, 8, 9 and 10) . The same holds true for the reverse situation, example compositions having very good evaluations in relation to styling and hold effect, have a worse evaluation referring to spreadability (examples 3, 4, and 5) . In order to provide a product, which is accepted by the consumer, neither the spreadability nor the styling and hold effect should be too bad. Therefore, compositions, which are evaluated not bad in relation to spreadability and to styling and hold effect, are most suitable to meet the wishes of the consumer. Hence, a composition according to example 1.1 may be regarded as the best one, not being evaluated bad in both categories. In consequence, it becomes apparent that it is necessary to pay much attention to keep the delicate balance of a good spreadability and a good styling and hold effect.

Claims

A hair wax composition, containing

- at least one synthetic wax,

- at least one oil, and

- at least one emulsifier, wherein the composition is free from waxes and/or oils derived from fossil sources.
The composition according to claim 1 characterized in that 50 to 80 %by weight, preferably 60 to 75 %by weight of water is contained, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 1or 2 characterized in that the at least one synthetic wax is produced from carbon monoxide and hydrogen gas by the method of Fischer Tropsch.
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one synthetic wax is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 15.0 %by weight, preferably 3.0 to 12.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally at least one wax derived from a natural source, especially from plants and insects, is contained.
The composition according to claim 5 characterized in that the at least one wax from a natural source is chosen from the group beeswax, Carnauba wax and/or Candelilla wax.
The composition according to claim 5 or 6 characterized in that the total amount of waxes ranges from 1.0 to 20.0 %by weight, preferably 3.0 to 15.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one oil is chosen from

- triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of from 8 to 24, especially caprylic/capric triglyceride;

- linear silicone oils, especially dimethicones;

- esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, with the proviso that said esters are fluid at room temperature, preferably C12-15-alkyl benzoate.
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one oil is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 15.0 %by weight, preferably 2.0 to 8.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one emulsifier is a nonionic emulsifier, preferably chosen from

- partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof (e.g.glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates) , and

- ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids.
The composition according to claim 10 characterized in that the partial fatty acid esters are monoglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, preferably chosen from the group of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, more preferably glyceryl monostearate.
The composition according to claim 10 characterized in that the ethoxylated derivatives are polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of from 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of from 5 to 200, preferably chosen from PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl iso-stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, more preferably PEG-100 stearate.
The composition according to claim 10 characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty alcohols are chosen from ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols) , preferably polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20) , polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12) , polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) , polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether (ceteth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20) , polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth- 20) , polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12) , polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15) , polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (laureth-12) , polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (isolaureth-12) , polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13) , polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14) , polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15) , polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16) , polyethylene glycol (17) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-17) , polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-18) , polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-19) , polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20) , most preferably polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20) .
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one emulsifier is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 10.0 %by weight, preferably 2.0 to 5.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally at least one styling polymer is contained, preferably chosen from nonionic styling polymers, more preferably homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, N –Vinylformamids or N-vinylcarprolactam or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate or vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidon, vinylacetate and propionate or vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidon and dimethylaminomethacrylat, most preferably homoplymers of vinyl pyrrolidone.
The composition according to claim 15 characterized in that the at least one styling polymer is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 3.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition and in relation to the active content of the styling polymer.
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally at least one moisturizer is contained, preferably chosen from propylene glycolbutylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, urea, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, and/or honey, more preferably chosen from hydrogenated starch hydrolysate and/or propylene glycol.
The composition according to claim 17 characterized in that the at least one moisturizer is contained in a total amount of 1.0 to 20.0 %by weight, more preferably 5.0 to 15.0 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of the preceding claims characterized in that additionally at least one thickener is contained, preferably chosen from the group of polyacrylates, more preferably chosen copolymers of C10-30-alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid or esters thereof, most preferably Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.
The composition according to claim 19 characterized in that the at least one thickener is contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.0 %by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5 %by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition and in relation to the active content.
A process of preparing the composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising steps of:

Heating an oil phase (including wax, oil and emulsifier) ,

Heating an aqueous phase (including water, optional moisturizer and thickener) ,

Combining both phases whilst stirring, then homogenizing the batch until the appearance is homogeneous,

Adding an inorganic or organic base and water to adjust a pH value in the range of 5.5 to 8.5, preferably 6.5 to 7.5, stir continuously and homogenize,

Cooling down,

Optionally adding a styling polymer and fragrance, and

Stirring continuously and cooling to room temperature.
Use of the composition according to any of claims 1-20 for hair styling.