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WO2015014818A2 - Compositions de protection solaire améliorées - Google Patents

Compositions de protection solaire améliorées Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015014818A2
WO2015014818A2 PCT/EP2014/066229 EP2014066229W WO2015014818A2 WO 2015014818 A2 WO2015014818 A2 WO 2015014818A2 EP 2014066229 W EP2014066229 W EP 2014066229W WO 2015014818 A2 WO2015014818 A2 WO 2015014818A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
water
weight
sunscreen
oil
carrageenan
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2014/066229
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2015014818A3 (fr
Inventor
Jan Martin BAUMEISTER
Cloè Cibil-Le MEUDEC
Brigitte Kaiser
Original Assignee
Colep Portugal, S.A.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Colep Portugal, S.A. filed Critical Colep Portugal, S.A.
Publication of WO2015014818A2 publication Critical patent/WO2015014818A2/fr
Publication of WO2015014818A3 publication Critical patent/WO2015014818A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to oil-in-water sunscreen compositions having improved water-resistance and methods for the preparation thereof. More particularly, the present invention relates to oil-in-water sunscreen compositions having improved water- resistance comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase wherein the aqueous phase includes one of more carrageenan hydro-colloidal stabilising agents and wherein the oil phase includes one or more ultraviolet (UV) filters.
  • aqueous phase includes one of more carrageenan hydro-colloidal stabilising agents and wherein the oil phase includes one or more ultraviolet (UV) filters.
  • UV ultraviolet
  • sunscreens and as such their ability to provide protection from sun-damage, is routinely compromised by the conditions in which they are necessarily utilised.
  • a sunscreen is applied prior to prolonged sun exposure the skin surface is highly likely to be at a lower temperature, and indeed drier, than it will become during exposure to the sun, where the skin surface temperature is elevated as a l consequence of the heat from the sun, resulting in wetter skin from sweat, or even, where the skin surface is subjected to changes in temperature and levels of dryness due to swimming and drying-off and such like.
  • Product skin-feel is an important factor in the delivery of effective sun-protection because the consumer will be more likely to use and repeat-use, as necessary, a product which is easy to use and is pleasant to apply, as opposed to a product which is less pleasant to use.
  • sunscreen formulations are now formulated as oil-in-water emulsions, to provide a more pleasant skin feeling when applying the sunscreen formulation.
  • oil-in-water emulsion-based sunscreens To provide efficient stabilisation of the droplets of oil (organic UV-filters) in such oil-in- water sunscreen formulations, emulsifiers have typically been utilised.
  • a problem with such oil-in-water emulsion-based sunscreens is that, once they are dried-on or dried-into the skin, oily-films of the UV-filters on the skin are likely to be readily solubilised into water during sweating, showering, swimming or the like by residual levels of emulsifiers and, they are susceptible to being washed off and undesirably leave the skin unprotected and exposed.
  • Film-forming polymers have been incorporated into some oil-in-water emulsion-based sunscreens to increase their water-resistance and mitigate this issue.
  • film-forming polymers may act akin to lacquer or glue, and reduce or prevent the amount oil (organic UV-filters) being washed away after the emulsion has been applied to and has dried in / onto the skin.
  • a common problem with emulsified oil-in-water sunscreen formulations which include film-forming polymers is that their residual skin-feel is often oily and moreover, the additional polymeric material in such compositions leads to increased dried-in residues on the skin, leading to an unpleasant, gritty or tightened skin feel.
  • a common difficulty with such emulsified oil-in-water sunscreen formulations is that they deliver insufficient water protection levels in order to be deemed "very waterproof" according to standard Industry guidelines, such as those established by Cosmetics Europe (formerly Colipa).
  • seaweed extracts Due to their gelatinous properties, seaweed extracts, carrageenans have been long- used as food additives, for thickening, gelling or stabilising products. Carrageenans are particularly used in the food industry for the stabilisation of dairy products, many of which are oil-in-water emulsions. However the utility of carrageenans within the cosmetics field to-date has been limited.
  • the applicant has now developed novel oil-in-water high SPF sunscreen formulations including carrageenans having improved water-resistance; skin feel characteristics; and/or skin dryness.
  • water-resistant sunscreen compositions are known these do not particularly relate to the use of carrageenans, for example US2011091401 (Al) relates to water- resistant sunscreen compositions and discloses water-resistant emulsions with perfluorinated emulsifier in combination with polysaccharides. Taking an alternative approach for the provision of improved water-resistance US2005186160 (Al) relates to sunscreen compositions with enhanced SPF and water resistant properties which are surfactant-free.
  • US2012134939 (Al) relates to water-in-oil emulsion sunscreen cosmetic compositions and discloses a water-in-oil emulsion composition having a water-soluble polymer which can be carrageenan.
  • Sunscreen compositions having polysaccharide components are found in
  • WO02092041 (Al) which relates to a UV-screening and colour-changing composition and discloses a sunscreen composition having 2% of a stabiliser, which can be carrageenan, and colour-changing ingredients
  • US6180090 (Bl) relates to the use of polysaccharides for improving the light protection effect of cosmetic or dermatological light protection compositions and discloses a sunscreen composition having triazine-based UV filters and polysaccharides for enhanced SPF.
  • the Applicant has developed a novel sunscreen composition comprising:
  • composition is an oil-in-water emulsion and wherein at least one of the
  • UV filters is an oil.
  • novel sunscreen compositions according to the present invention form stable oil-in-water emulsions which solubilise oily UV-filters with significantly reduced levels of emulsifiers, and/or film-forming polymers than the levels found in current commercial sunscreen formulations whilst still delivering excellent levels of protection, high SPF, and providing desirable skin feel properties as well as increased water-resistance versus current commercial high SPF sunscreen formulations.
  • oil-in- water sunscreen compositions comprising:
  • novel oil-in-water sunscreen compositions developed by the Applicant have been demonstrated to deliver improvements in water-resistance, skin feel, skin dryness, as well as providing desirable high levels of SPF protection when compared to conventional sunscreen compositions, by utilising hydro-colloids of carrageenan.
  • the sunscreen compositions according to the invention are oil-in-water emulsions.
  • Sunscreen compositions as defined herein are products formulated for topical application to the skin for protection against the harmful effects of exposure to the sun.
  • sunscreen as used herein includes sunblock, sun tan lotion, sun screen, sun burn cream or sun block out.
  • the protection provided by sunscreen compositions as defined herein is absorption and, optionally reflection of some of the UV radiation from the sun.
  • emulsions are a particular class of colloidal systems
  • the terms emulsion and colloid may be interchangeably used herein in relation to the oil-in-water emulsions according to the present invention.
  • the sunscreen compositions of the invention are oil-in- water emulsions i.e. a mixture of two immiscible liquids, oil and water, wherein the continuous/external aqueous phase and the liquid dispersed within it as separate droplets, the dispersed/internal oil phase, are both liquids.
  • the sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are capable of delivering effective levels of UV protection across the skin to which they are applied due to the statistical distribution of the oil (UV filters) within the continuous aqueous phase, also known as the dispersion medium.
  • aqueous phase in the oil-in-water emulsions according to the present invention may additionally comprise further oil- or water-soluble additives as may typically be found in sunscreen products, and as detailed hereinafter.
  • UV filters as defined herein include organic chemical compounds which absorb UV light, organic particulates which contain multiple chromophores, and inorganic chemical compounds which reflect UV light.
  • Ultraviolet light may be artificially divided into three ranges: UVA is radiation in the 320-400 nm range; UVB is radiation in the 290-320 nm range; and UVC is radiation in the 100-290 nm range.
  • UVC is totally blocked by the ozone layer in the upper atmosphere of the Earth, blocking agents for UVC are not typical in sunscreen products.
  • the ozone layer blocks some of the UVB, however all of the UVA passes through the ozone layer.
  • the sunscreen compositions according to the invention comprise filters for the effective protection of the skin against both UVA and UVB at a combined level in the range of from 5% to 35%, and preferably in the range of from 15% to 35% by weight.
  • UVA filters suitable for use herein include: avobenzone or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, also known as Parsol 1789, Parsol A, Eusolex 9020, Escalol 517, BMBM, BMDBM, and related compounds, such as for example oxybenzone; Tinosorb S also known as bis-ethyl-hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, BEMT, bemotrizinol, anisotriazine, Escalol S, Tinosorb S Aqua; Tinosorb M also known as methylene bis- benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, MBBT, Bisoctrizole; Mexoryl SX also known as terephthalyiidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, TDSA, Ecamsuie; Mexoryl XL also known as Drometrizole trisiloxane, Ecamsuie; a combination of a
  • an oil-in-water sunscreen composition as detailed hereinbefore wherein one or more of the UVA filters is an oil.
  • UVB filters suitable for use herein include: benzyl salicylate and salicylate derivitaves, such as for example homosalate; benzyl cinnamate and cinnamate derivatives; Octinoxate also known as Octyl methoxy-cinnamate, OMC, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, EHMC, Escalol 557, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 2292, Tinosorb OMC, Uvinul MC80; Octocrylene also known as Uvinul N539T, OCR, Eusolex OCR; a combination of avobenzone and oxybenzone also known as Helioplex; Tinosorb M also known as methylene bis- benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, MBBT, Bisoctrizole; Tinosorb S also known as bis- ethyl-hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, BEMT, bemotrizinol
  • an oil-in-water sunscreen composition as detailed hereinbefore wherein one or more of the UVB filters is an oil.
  • an oil-in-water sunscreen composition as detailed hereinbefore wherein the UVA and UVB filters are oils.
  • an oil-in-water sunscreen composition as detailed hereinbefore wherein the one or more UVA filters are oils and wherein the one or more UVB filters are water soluble.
  • Exemplary UV filters for use in the compositions according to the present invention may be independently selected from: Eusolex 9020, butyl -methoxydi benzoyl -methane (Avobenzone), UV-A-filter; Tinosorb S, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, UV-A/B-filter (suitable for use as a UV-B filter in the formulae in Tables 1 and 2 herein); Octocrylene UV-A/B-filter (suitable for use as a UV-B filter in the formulae in Tables 1 and 2 herein); Parsol HS, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid, UV-B-filter; Parsol SLX Polysilicone-15, UV-B-filter.
  • the present invention provides sunscreen formulations in accordance with any of the variations herein wherein the UVA and UVB filters are selected from: Eusolex 9020, butyl-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Avobenzone); Tinosorb S, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ; Octocrylene ; Parsol HS, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid; Parsol SLX Polysilicone-15 and mixtures thereof.
  • the UVA and UVB filters are selected from: Eusolex 9020, butyl-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Avobenzone); Tinosorb S, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ; Octocrylene ; Parsol HS, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid; Parsol SLX Polysilicone-15 and mixtures thereof.
  • Oil-in-water sunscreen compositions according to the present invention wherein the UV filters are oils are formulated to have a pH value in the range of from pH 4.5 to 7.5 for formulations.
  • Oil-in-water sunscreen compositions according to the present invention wherein the UV filters comprise a mixture of water-soluble and oily UV-filters have a pH value in the range between 6.8 and 7.5.
  • the sunscreen compositions according to the invention may include inorganic compounds which reflect UV light at a level in the range of from 1 % to 30%, and preferably in the range of from 10% to 30% by weight and wherein the total level of UVA and UVB filters and said UV light reflecting materials is in the range of from 5% to 35%, and preferably in the range of from 15% to 35% by weight.
  • UV reflector compounds suitable for use herein are inorganic particulates that reflect, scatter and absorb UV length and include: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or a combination of both.
  • the present invention additionally provides a sunscreen formulation as detailed hereinbefore additionally comprising from 15% to 35% by weight of UV filters and UV light reflecting materials.
  • the present invention additionally provides a sunscreen formulation as detailed hereinbefore additionally comprising from 15% to 35% by weight of UV filters and UV light reflecting materials and wherein said formulation is a non-aerosol formulation.
  • non-aerosol formulations as defined herein include any formulation which does not include propellants, such as for example, pump-sprays and the like.
  • Emulsifiers also known as emulgents, are compounds or materials consisting of both water soluble hydrophilic portions and water-insoluble, oil soluble lipophilic portions, which dual functionality provides their emulsifying effects.
  • emulsifiers are utilised to provide enhanced miscibility / stability to mixtures of liquids which would either, not normally mix, or if mixed would normally separate if left unattended.
  • the present compositions comprise one or more emulsifiers each independently present at a level between 1 % to 7% by weight, and wherein the total level of emulsifier(s) present in the sunscreen compositions herein is in the range of from 1 % to 7%; from 1.5% to 5%; or from 2% to 4% by weight.
  • Emulsifiers suitable for use herein are those which are soluble in water, which are neither strongly hydrophilic, nor are strongly lipophilic but rather are well-balanced, i.e. they have an appropriate balance between their hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, their so-called HLB value.
  • Emulsifiers having an HLB value of greater than about 14, preferably greater than about 16, more preferably greater than about 18 and especially around 20 can be used in the sunscreen compositions herein.
  • Emulsifiers suitable for use in the sunscreen formulations according to the present invention include one or more surface active agent or surfactants.
  • water-soluble emulsifiers for use herein include: glycerol stearate; stearic acid triethanolamine (TEA) salt; cetylated monoglycerides; polyglycerol esters; sucrose esters; diacetyl tartaric (acid) ester of monoglyceride (DATEM); sodium stearoyl lactylate (SSL); calcium stearoyl lactylate (CSL); Amphisol K (potassium cetyl phosphate) and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • Sunscreen compositions comprising a mixture of surfactant emulsifiers, and in particular, mixtures of 2% by weight of glycerol stearate and 2% by weight of TEA stearate have been demonstrated to provide desirable properties.
  • the present invention provides sunscreen formulations as defined herein, comprising a mixture of surfactant emulsifiers, wherein the combined level of emulsifier is in the range of 4% to 5% by weight.
  • the present invention provides sunscreen formulations as defined herein wherein the total level of emulsifier is 4% by weight and wherein the emulsifier is a stearate surfactant.
  • oil-in-water sunscreen formulations according to the present invention having desirable properties are provided where the relative ratio of UVA oil components to emulsifiers is in the range between 10 : 1 and 2 : 1 ; or between 5 :1 and 2 : 1 and the relative ratio of UV oil components to film-forming polymers is in the range of 2.5 : 1 to 50 : 1 ; or between 2.5 : 1 and 30 : 1 .
  • oil-in-water sunscreen formulations where the relative ratio of UV oil components to emulsifiers is 2.5 :1 and the relative weight ratio of UV oil components to emulsion stabilising agents is in the range between 100 : 1 and 50 : 1 and the relative ratio of UV oil components to film-forming polymers, where present, is in the range of 50: : 1 to 20: : 1 have particularly desirable properties.
  • oil-in-water sunscreen formulations according to the present invention having desirable properties are provided where the relative ratio of UV components to emulsion stabilising agents is in the range between 100 : 1 to 50 : 1 and the relative ratio of UV oil components to film-forming polymers is in the range of 50: 1 to 20 : 1 have desirable properties.
  • Carrageenans also known as carrageenins, are wholly natural materials which are extracted from certain species of the red seaweed, class Rhodophyceae and are generally considered to be high molecular weight linear sulphated polysaccharides having varying degrees of sulphation, whilst there are a number of structurally different carrageenans, labelled beta-, kappa-, iota-, mu-, nu-, lambda-, theta-, and xi-, of these kappa-, iota- and lambda- are more widely commercially available and are suitable for use herein.
  • Kappa- carrageenan has one sulfate per disaccharide, iota-carrageenan has two sulfates per disaccharide and lambda carrageenan has three sulfates per disaccharide.
  • the level of carrageenan in the sunscreen compositions herein is in the range of from 0.1 % to 1 %; in the range of from 0.2% to 0..5%; or in the range of from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight.
  • Carrageenans suitable for use herein include commercially available forms of: iota-, kappa-, and/or lambda- carrageenan, and mixtures thereof, as well as stable sodium, potassium, magnesium and/or calcium salts of iota-, kappa- and/or lambda-carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable commercially available carrageenans for use in the improved sunscreen compositions according to the present invention include: Genuvisco® CG-131 and CG-131 ; Genugel®; refined carrageenans, such as SatiagelTM VPC and such like.
  • Preferred for use herein are iota- and/or lambda-carrageenan and stable salts thereof.
  • sunscreen compositions comprising hydro-colloids of iota-carrageen and stable salts thereof have been demonstrated to deliver especially advantageous water-resistance properties.
  • the present invention provides sunscreen formulations as defined herein wherein the level of carrageenan is in the range of 0.3% to 0.5% by weight.
  • the present invention provides sunscreen formulations having desirable water-resistance as defined herein wherein the level of carrageenan is in the range of 0.3% to 0.5% by weight and wherein said carrageenan is independently selected from: iota-carrageenan; iota-carrageenan in the form of an Na, K or Ca salt; a mixture of iota-carrageenan and its salts; iota-carrageenan in the form of an Na- salt; iota-carrageenan as detailed hereinbefore at a level of 0.3% by weight.
  • oil-in-water sunscreen formulations according to the present invention having desirable properties are provided where the relative ratio of UVA oil components to emulsifiers is in the range between 5 : 1 and 1 : 1 ; or between 2 :1 and 1.2 : 1 and the relative ratio of UVA oil components to carrageenan is in the range of 25: : 1 to 10 : 1.
  • oil-in-water sunscreen formulations where the relative ratio of UVA oil components to emulsifiers is 2.5 : 1 and the relative ratio of UVA oil components to carrageen is in the range of 18: 1 to 15 : 1 have particularly desirable properties.
  • novel sunscreen compositions according to the present invention form oil-in-water emulsions which solubilise oily UV-filters.
  • Such compositions deliver excellent levels of protection, high SPF, and provide desirable skin feel properties as well as increased water-resistance versus current commercial high SPF sunscreen formulations.
  • sunscreen composition having varying desirable levels of water-resistance can be formulated with varying salt forms of carrageen, particularly the sodium salt of iota- carrageenan.
  • Film-forming polymers suitable for use herein are polymeric materials which mitigate the effects or water and/or reduce the amount of UV filters which are washed off, or sweated off the skin.
  • the sunscreen compositions of the present invention include one or more film forming polymers at a level of from about 1 % to 5%, from 2% to 4%, from 2.5% to 3.5% by weight.
  • Examples of the one or more film-forming polymers suitable for use in the compositions according to the present invention include: trimethylpentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin cross polymer (Lexorez® 200); polyacrylic acid; polycrotonic acid; polymethacrylic acid; polymaleic acid; polyitaconic acid; octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer; acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer; acrylates copolymer; octylacrylamide/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer; VA crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer; VA Crotonates copolymer; sodium polystyrene sulfonate; polyurethane-14 (and) AMP-Acrylates copolymer; acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer; acrylates/
  • PVP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer VinylcaprolactamNP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer; VA/Butyl Maleate/lsobornyl Acrylate Copolymer; acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/t-butyl acrylamide; t-butyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid; ethyl acrylate/t- butyl acrylate/methacrylic acid; polyquaternium-16; PVP; PVPNA copolymer; Polyurethane- 1 ; VP/MethacrylamideNinyl Imidazole Copolymer; Acrylates Copolymer; Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer; Polyvinylcaprolactam; Dimethicone/Acrylates Copolymer; Amerchol; acrylic acid/methacrylic acid/acrylates/methacrylates; acrylic acid/methacryl
  • Sunscreen compositions comprising a film-forming trimethylpentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosspolymer, Lexorez® 200, and in particular, Lexorez® 200 at 2% by weight have been demonstrated to provide desirable stability and water-resistance properties.
  • the present invention provides sunscreen formulations as defined herein comprising a film-forming polymer at a level of from 1 % to 5%, wherein said film-forming polymer is preferably present at 2% to 4% by weight, and wherein said film-forming polymer is a trimethylpentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosspolymer.
  • sunscreen formulations as defined herein wherein the total level of film-forming polymer is 2% to 4%, preferably from 2.5% to 3.5% by weight and wherein said polymer is Lexorez® 200.
  • the improved sunscreen compositions according to the present invention which have desirable water-resistance properties in combination with desirable skin feel and high SPF, can be formulated as stable foamable, stable foaming, or stable foamed products such as mousses via the inclusion of one or more additional foam- boosting agents at a level of from 0.5% to 2%, and preferably at 1 % by weight, wherein said foam-boosting agents are amphoteric surfactants, so-called amphoterics.
  • Suitable amphoteric foam-boosting agents for use herein are surfactants having an ionic charge which can change between anionic character, the isoelectric neutral stage, and the cationic character and include amphoterics having one ionic group, and betaine ( ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ - trimethylglycine) and betaine-derivatives which are amphoterics having a fully quaternatrized nitrogen and present in the form of zwitterions.
  • Betaines for use herein include: alkyl derivatives of betaine, alkyl betaines, wherein one methyl group is replaced by a long alkyl chain derived from coconut oil, or palm kernel oil (C 8 -C 18 ), tallow (C 16 -C 18 and C 18 ), palm oil (C 16 -C 18 and C 18 ), or pure C 12 -chain; alkylamido derivatives of betaine, alkylamido betaines of the general formula R-amidopropyl betaine wherein R is -cocoalkyl, mixed -coco/- oleoalkyl, or a pure -Ci 2 -derivative; hydroxysulpho-betaines of general formula R- hydroxysulphobetaine wherein R is -cocoalkyl and synthetic Ci 4 -Ci 5 alkyl structures in aqueous solutions with NaCI. Any commercially available amphoteric foam-boosting agent may be used, further examples of such materials include alkyl amphoter
  • cocamidopropylbetaine (Dehyton® K) provides, foamable, oil-in-water, sunscreen compositions suitable for delivery as mousse products having: high SPF; highly desirable levels of water-resistance; desirable skin-feel properties.
  • the present invention provides sunscreen formulations as defined herein additionally comprising one or more amphoteric surfactant foam boosting agents at a level of from 0.5% to 2%, from 0.6% to 1.6%, from 0.8% to 1.2% by weight.
  • the sunscreen formulations as defined herein can be formulated as stable foamable products.
  • the foams provided by said formulations are exceptionally stable over time, after or on and/or after dispensing, providing foams which remain stable for greater than 3 minutes; greater than 5 minutes; greater than 10 minutes.
  • a stable foam as defined herein means a foam which to the naked eye does not lose its exterior shape or foamed appearance within the defined time frames indicated herein.
  • Foamable sunscreen formulations according to the present invention have been demonstrated to provide foams which remain stable for up to 30 minutes.
  • foamable oil-in-water sunscreen compositions comprising:
  • one or more film forming polymers at a level of from 1 % to 3% by weight; wherein the relative weight ratio of UV oil components to emulsion stabilising agents is in the range between 100 : 1 and 50 : 1 and the relative ratio of UV oil components to film-forming polymers, where present, is in the range of 50: : 1 to 20: : 1 ; wherein the UV oil components are dispersed within the aqueous phase; and wherein the water soluble UV filters, where present, are in the aqueous phase.
  • foamable, or foamed sunscreen compositions according to this yet further aspect of the present invention deliver highly desirable product application advantages including: stable foams; ease-of foam-breaking; non-drip formulations (even in warm environments); more even distribution of UV-filters across the skin. It is believed that the thixotropic properties of carrageenans are related to the ability of the mousse formulations according to this yet further aspect of invention to form stable foams.
  • Ease of foam breaking as defined herein means foams which are readily broken down and are therefore readily spreadable, thereby providing more rapid skin-coverage.
  • the sunscreen formulations according to the present invention may additionally comprise additional agents as are typically found in sunscreen formulations such as for example: perfumes or fragrances, preservatives, antibacterial components, colouring agents, chelating agents such as EDTA and salts thereof, soothing agents such as Allantoin or tocopherol, and such like.
  • additional agents may each be independently present at levels in the range of from 0.01 % to 1 % by weight, and the total level of additional agents present in the sunscreen formulations according to the present invention is in the range of from 0.01 % to 5% by weight.
  • any particular composition according to the invention described herein are not specified it should be understood that the actual or relative amount of water required will be that sufficient to reach 100% of composition, either by weight or relative volume.
  • Water may be used in any form suitable for inclusion into consumer products including: purified, de-ionised or distilled form, or from regular supply.
  • the oil-in-water sunscreen compositions according to the invention can be dispensed as liquids, pump sprays, pump foams and foams and may preferably be dispersed as aerosol sprays and/or mousses.
  • a sunscreen product comprising a sunscreen composition as defined herein wherein said composition is dispersed as a liquid, pump spray, foam, aerosol spray, or mousse.
  • the composition additionally comprises a propellant at a level of from 5% to 15% by weight, from 7% to 12%, 10% by weight.
  • a propellant formulation the % weight of propellant is by weight of the final propellant containing composition.
  • the propellant ratio is relative to the final composition i.e. to formulate Formula 1 in table 1 as an aerosol containing 10% of propellant, formula 1 would comprise 90% of the final formulation.
  • Any suitable commercial propellant may be used.
  • Suitable propellants for use herein include: liquefied petroleum gases like for example propane and butane, dimethyl ether; compressed air; compressed nitrogen; soluble compressed gases such as for example, C0 2 or mixtures thereof.
  • the present invention additionally provides a sunscreen composition formulated as an aerosol or mouse product comprising:
  • the relative weight ratio of UV oil components to emulsion stabilising agents is in the range between 100 : 1 and 50 : 1 and the relative ratio of UV oil components to film-forming polymers, where present, is in the range of 50: : 1 to 20: : 1 ; wherein the UV oil components are dispersed within the aqueous phase; wherein the water soluble UV filters, where present, are in the aqueous phase, and wherein a propellant is present at a relative level of from 5% to 15% by weight versus the total weight of the sunscreen composition.
  • novel sunscreen formulations according to the invention may additionally be formulated for dispension from pump foam dispensers.
  • Such non-aerosol pump products may include a compress pack such as for example a bag-on-valve or tin plate systems both of which are commercially available technologies.
  • the present invention provides a sunscreen product comprising a sunscreen composition as defined herein wherein said composition is provided within a bag within a bag-on-valve packaging system to allow 360° application of the composition to the skin.
  • Sun protection factor is a worldwide standard for measuring the effectiveness of a sunscreen, levels of protection from UV radiation, when applied at an even rate of 2 milligrams per square centimeter (mg/cm 2 ). Essentially the SPF rating is a multiplier that tells how long one can safely remain in the sun. For example, if an individual whose unprotected skin becomes sunburned in 5 minutes, then an SPF-15 sunscreen should allow that individual to stay in the sun for 15 times 5 minutes, or 75 minutes, without burning. As detailed in the Experimental results hereinafter sunscreen compositions according to the present invention have been demonstrated to deliver high levels of SPF protection.
  • the present invention additionally provides novel and inventive methods for the preparation of the novel and inventive sunscreen formulations as detailed herein, both in the form or aerosol and non-aerosol compositions. Such methods are detailed hereinafter in the Process Examples.
  • the present invention provides a method for the preparation of an oil-in-water sunscreen formulation with water-soluble and oily UV filters comprising:
  • the present invention provides a method for the preparation of foamable oil-in-water sunscreen formulations including a propellant.
  • the present invention provides a method for the preparation of foamable oil-in-water sunscreen formulations with water-soluble and oily UV filters comprising:
  • the UVA and UVB filter components, the carrageenan, the emulsifiers, the foam boosters, the other optional additional components, and the pH adjusting agents, for use in accordance with the method of the invention are as generally defined herein before, and as specifically defined in the Claims hereinafter, and as particularly detailed in the Examples herein.
  • the various physical properties of the compositions exemplified can be measured according to any of the standard methodologies as are known in the art.
  • the SPF of a test product can be measured in vivo by determining the point at which the skin of fair-skinned volunteers becomes sunburned when exposed to a suitable artificial light source.
  • the SPF may be measured in vitro using a spectrometer to determine the transmittance of the sunscreen and the degradation of the product.
  • Such methods are well-known in the field of sunscreens and are described in Allen et. al. Thermo Fisher Scientific, Application Note: 51463.
  • varying degrees of skin erythema are generated which are visually assessed for redness intensity 16 to 24 hours post-UV exposure, using the judgement of a trained evaluator.
  • the minimum erythemal dose (MED) for unprotected skin of an individual (MEDui) and the MED post-application of a test sunscreen formulation on an individual (MEDpi) must be determined on the same subject on the same day. More than one test product may be tested on the same subject in any single test.
  • the individual sun protection factor (SPFi) for each subject tested is provides as the ration of MEDpi/MEDui and the SPF for the any test product is the arithmetic mean of all valid SPFi results from each and every subject in the test. A minimum of 10 valid results and a maximum of 20 are recommended for calculation of SPF values.
  • a UV TH - 1 lamp containing UVA radiant with a wavelength spectrum of between 320 and 400 nm, a peak emission of 370 nm, and a UVB wavelength spectrum of between 280 and 320 nm.
  • MED is representative of the minimal erythema dose which causes a distinct erythema after 24 hours.
  • MED minimal erythema dose
  • One cm 2 skin areas that are usually not subject to irradiation (the back) were irradiated with a UV lamp with various increasing doses of UVB 0.01 J/cm 2 , 0.02J/cm 2 , up to 0.1 J/cm 2 .
  • the MED was recorded as the lowest dose of UVB radiation which caused a erythematous reaction, usually after 2 hours, which remained after 24 hours and which produced melanosis after 48 hours.
  • UVB/MEDs The average UVB/MEDs determined in these laboratory tests was between 0.06 and O.U/crm 2 for persons with skin types 1 to 3. In an analogous manner, the average UVA MEDs were determined to be between 7 to 10J/cm 2 .
  • Detailed experimental method for determination of SPF In order to determine the SPF (UVB), persistent pigment darkening (PPD) against UVB/UVA rays, studies were performed on 15 subjects of different skin types ranging in age between 22 to 60 years, after a prior assessment of the subject's skin by a dermatologist in order to exclude possible lesions, which would prevent the proper conduct of the study or its correct interpretation. The determination was consistent with the principles of COLIPA.
  • the tested product - "BK - 31 - 6" was applied onto 1 cm 2 skin areas of the back (2 mg/cm 2 ), and next to it the control COLIPA - P2 sample was applied at the same dosage volume. After 10 minutes, the skin areas on the volunteers, having test/control products thereon, were irradiated with increasing doses of UVB and UVA, which were the multiple MED for each volunteer. The increase in dose was 1 MED.
  • the standard range of radiation doses ranged from 1— 10, 1 1— 20, 21— 30, 31 - 40, 41 - 50, 51 - 60, and 60 - 65 MED. Erythema was assessed after 2, 24, 48 and 72 hours respectively.
  • Resistance to water immersion and sweating is also an important aspect of a sunscreen performance. In the USA this is measured in vivo, by the ability of a product to withstand water immersion. SPF has to remain unchanged after two twenty-minute immersions for a "water resistant” product. A “very water resistant” product will offer the same protection after four twenty-minutes immersions. Each 20 minute immersion interval is followed by a 20 minute rest/air dry period until the total water exposure time is reached. In Europe, the SPF after a 40 and 80 minute water immersion period is measured and compared to the original SPF before water exposure. A product is considered “water resistant” or “extra water resistant” if the SPF data after 40 or 80 minute immersions respectively is greater or equal to 50% of the pre-immersion SPF.
  • the SPF number on the product label products is pre-water exposure while in the USA the SPF on the label corresponds to the measurements after the water immersion cycles.
  • To determine the water-resistance of a sunscreen composition the following method using the guidelines for the Evaluation of Sun Product Water Resistance provided by the European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (COLIPA) in 2005, available at: https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/downloads/88.html may be used.
  • COLIPA European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association
  • the water resistance test compares the SPC of a test product following a period of immersion in water with the original, static SPF of said test product determined using the COLIPA 2006 SPF method described hereinbefore.
  • the International SPF test method is followed up until the point where the product under test has been applied to the individual volunteer's skin, after which the water resistance can be assessed by: allowing 15 to 30 minutes drying time post-product application; immersing the test area in water for 20 minutes; leaving the area to dry for 15 minutes (without towelling); immersing the test area in water for a further 20 minutes; leaving the area to dry for 15 minutes (without towelling); the SPF of the so-treated skin is then measured (SPFw) which can then be compared with the static SPF to provide an assessment of water-resistance.
  • the water soluble UV filter(s) are added to water (aqueous phase) followed by neutralisation to between pH 6.8 to 7.5 with aqueous triethylamine or NaOH with subsequent addition of carrageenan with stirring to provide a homogeneous aqueous gel phase.
  • aqueous phase aqueous triethylamine or NaOH
  • carrageenan aqueous triethylamine or NaOH
  • the oil phase comprising one or more emulsifiers and the oily UV filter(s) is prepared.
  • Each phase is separately heated to a temperature of between 80°C to 85°C after which the oil phase is emulsified into the aqueous gel phase with continuous stirring.
  • the mixture is cooled to 30°C or room temperature, preferably about 30 °C using a cold water jacket with continued stirring and the foam booster and other optional additional components, such as film forming polymers and additional agents as are typically found in sunscreen formulations are added. If necessary, the pH of the final sunscreen formulation is adjusted to between 6.8 and 7.5 as indicated hereinbefore.
  • Formulations prepared according to this method are suitable for direct application, such as for example as creams or lotions.
  • the base adjusted sunscreen formulation is prepared in accordance with the method above and then suitable propellant(s) are added at from 5% to 15% by weight under suitable conditions and packaged accordingly. If necessary the pH of the foam- booster containing sunscreen formulation is adjusted to between 6.8 and 7.5 as detailed hereinbefore depending upon whether water-soluble UV filters are present.
  • Formulations prepared according to this method are suitable for application as aerosols or mousses.
  • compositions 1 to 4 are representative of the compositions according to the present invention and may be made according to the processes indicated hereinbefore.
  • compositions 5 to 12 are comparator formulations which comprise equivalent levels of UV-filters to compositions 1 to 4.
  • % of total sunscreen composition for example 1 % of Versan® soft means that there is 1 part by weight of Versan® soft per 100 parts by weight (100%) of the complete composition.
  • Genuvisco® CG-131 commercially available as Genuvisco® CG-131 from CP Kelco
  • Genuvisco® CG-129 commercially available as Genuvisco® CG-129 from CP Kelco
  • Lexorez® 200 commercially available as Lexorez® 200 from Inolex Chemical Company
  • LaraCareTM (arabinogalactan) from Lonza 7 commercially available as Keltrol® CG-SFT, from CP Kelco
  • compositions 13 (SP F 30), 14 (SPF 30), and 15 (SPF 50), as detailed in Table 3, are representative of mousse compositions according to the present invention and may be made according to the processes indicated hereinbefore.
  • % of total sunscreen composition for example 1 % of Versan® soft means that there is 1 part by weight of Versan® soft per 100 parts by weight (100%) of the complete composition, and as target weight in g out of a 1 kg or 12Kg batch as indicated.
  • compositions of Examples 13 to 15 are prepared as follows: A: Water is placed in the main formulation vessel and parasol HS is added with neutralisation under continuous stirring until it is soluble and has a pH of 6.4 to 6.8; B Carageenan is added with stirring until a homogeneous gel is obtained and the formulation vessel is then heated to about 80 to 85°C. The components in phase D of Table 3 are mixed together in a separate vessel and heated to a temperature of about 80 to 85°C, and then this heated mixture of components is added into the homogeneous gel phase in the main formulation vessel. Triethanolamine is then added to the stirred mixture, and stirring is continued for a further 10 minutes, at 80°C, followed by cooling to
  • sunscreen compositions according to the invention As illustrated in Table 4, sunscreen compositions according to the invention, Examples 2 to 4, have desirable high SPF protection levels, and desirable skin-feel properties. In addition to the required high SPF protection necessary to demonstrate effectiveness as a potential sunscreen, it is highly desirable that the sunscreen compositions of the invention additionally demonstrate water-resistance.
  • compositions according to the invention display desirable water-resistance properties. All the test formulations were subjected to a common water-resistance testing method. To assess the relative water-resistance properties of test formulations the following method may be used: measure a common amount of a test formulation and carefully place onto a glass slide using a pipette, or a spatula, and distribute evenly over said slide (avoiding the edges); repeat for further test and comparator formulations as necessary; allow the slides to dry overnight at room temperature (RT), or in an oven at 26°C; weigh each slide and leave to dry for a further hour and re-weigh to confirm dried-weights; prepare solutions of demineralised water in separate 150ml glass beakers with a sufficient volume of water to fully immerse the formulation containing portions of each test slide; carefully immerse each test slide in an individual beaker without agitation or stirring and leave for 20 minutes; remove slides carefully and leave to dry overnight at room temperature (RT), or in an oven at 26°C;
  • Table 4 illustrates the advantageous properties of foamable spray products made in accordance with the method provided herein which include 10% of propellant in addition the components indicated in Examples 1 to 4.
  • non-aerosolised emulsions i.e. example compositions 1 to 4 and 13 to 15 herein, display desirable mousse stability properties with foam stabilities in excess of 10 minutes as well as excellent bulk stability properties of up to 4 weeks stability at 42°C.
  • propellent-containing aerosol compositions according to the invention have bulk stabilities at 42°C of greater than 4 weeks.
  • any suitable type of UVA and UVB filters may be used.
  • any type of iota-carrageenan may be used.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions de protection solaire de type émulsion huile dans eau améliorées comprenant des filtres UV, des émulsifiants, de la carraghénane, ou des agents stabilisants d'émulsion hydrocolloïdale à base de carraghénane, et facultativement des polymères filmogènes, ainsi que des procédés pour leur préparation.
PCT/EP2014/066229 2013-07-30 2014-07-29 Compositions de protection solaire améliorées WO2015014818A2 (fr)

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WO2018000063A1 (fr) * 2016-06-30 2018-01-04 L'oreal Produits cosmétiques moussants et compositions cosmétiques moussantes non pressurisés
KR20180081611A (ko) * 2015-12-23 2018-07-16 로레알 광보호성 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법
GB2593653A (en) * 2016-05-26 2021-09-29 Kimberly Clark Co Anti-adherent compositions and methods of inhibiting the adherence of microbes to a surface
US11168287B2 (en) 2016-05-26 2021-11-09 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Anti-adherent compositions and methods of inhibiting the adherence of microbes to a surface
US20220062138A1 (en) * 2018-12-26 2022-03-03 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising hydrosoluble uv filters
IT202000030185A1 (it) 2020-12-09 2022-06-09 Prod Gianni S R L Alchilesteri di lipoamminoacidi quali spf boosters
WO2023192581A1 (fr) * 2022-03-31 2023-10-05 Cargill, Incorporated Produits de soins personnels de raffermissement et de lissage de la peau
WO2024126253A1 (fr) * 2022-12-16 2024-06-20 L'oreal Composition comprenant un agent filtrant les uv, un polymère lipophile sélectionné de manière appropriée et un carraghénane
US12037497B2 (en) 2016-01-28 2024-07-16 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Anti-adherent composition against DNA viruses and method of inhibiting the adherence of DNA viruses to a surface
EP4431081A1 (fr) 2023-03-13 2024-09-18 Prodotti Gianni S.r.l. Compositions cosmétiques à facteur de protection solaire amélioré et leur préparation

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KR20180081611A (ko) * 2015-12-23 2018-07-16 로레알 광보호성 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법
CN108472515A (zh) * 2015-12-23 2018-08-31 欧莱雅 光保护性化妆品组合物及获得该组合物的方法
KR102134740B1 (ko) * 2015-12-23 2020-07-16 로레알 광보호성 화장료 조성물 및 이의 제조 방법
US12037497B2 (en) 2016-01-28 2024-07-16 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Anti-adherent composition against DNA viruses and method of inhibiting the adherence of DNA viruses to a surface
GB2565511B (en) * 2016-05-26 2022-04-13 Kimberly Clark Co Anti-adherent compositions and methods of inhibiting the adherence of microbes to a surface
US11168287B2 (en) 2016-05-26 2021-11-09 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Anti-adherent compositions and methods of inhibiting the adherence of microbes to a surface
GB2593653B (en) * 2016-05-26 2022-04-20 Kimberly Clark Co Anti-adherent compositions and methods of inhibiting the adherence of microbes to a surface
GB2593653A (en) * 2016-05-26 2021-09-29 Kimberly Clark Co Anti-adherent compositions and methods of inhibiting the adherence of microbes to a surface
WO2018000063A1 (fr) * 2016-06-30 2018-01-04 L'oreal Produits cosmétiques moussants et compositions cosmétiques moussantes non pressurisés
US20220062138A1 (en) * 2018-12-26 2022-03-03 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising hydrosoluble uv filters
IT202000030185A1 (it) 2020-12-09 2022-06-09 Prod Gianni S R L Alchilesteri di lipoamminoacidi quali spf boosters
EP4011357A1 (fr) 2020-12-09 2022-06-15 Prodotti Gianni S.r.l. Esters alkyliques de lipo-acides aminés en tant qu'amplificateurs de facteur de protection solaire
US11793738B2 (en) 2020-12-09 2023-10-24 Prodotti Gianni S.R.L. Lipo-amino acid alkyl esters as SPF boosters
WO2023192581A1 (fr) * 2022-03-31 2023-10-05 Cargill, Incorporated Produits de soins personnels de raffermissement et de lissage de la peau
WO2024126253A1 (fr) * 2022-12-16 2024-06-20 L'oreal Composition comprenant un agent filtrant les uv, un polymère lipophile sélectionné de manière appropriée et un carraghénane
FR3143344A1 (fr) * 2022-12-16 2024-06-21 L'oreal Composition comprenant un filtre UV, un polymère lipophile convenablement sélectionné, et un carraghénane
EP4431081A1 (fr) 2023-03-13 2024-09-18 Prodotti Gianni S.r.l. Compositions cosmétiques à facteur de protection solaire amélioré et leur préparation

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