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WO2015066877A1 - Composition comprenant des tensioactifs et des substances actives hydrophiles - Google Patents

Composition comprenant des tensioactifs et des substances actives hydrophiles Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015066877A1
WO2015066877A1 PCT/CN2013/086716 CN2013086716W WO2015066877A1 WO 2015066877 A1 WO2015066877 A1 WO 2015066877A1 CN 2013086716 W CN2013086716 W CN 2013086716W WO 2015066877 A1 WO2015066877 A1 WO 2015066877A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
chosen
emulsifier
oil
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2013/086716
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Xinrong LIN
Yangdong CHEN
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2013/086716 priority Critical patent/WO2015066877A1/fr
Priority to CN201380081952.4A priority patent/CN106102698B/zh
Publication of WO2015066877A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015066877A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm

Definitions

  • Composition Com prising Surfactants and Hydrophilic Active I ngredients TECHNICAL FIE LD
  • the invention relates to a composition, in particular a composition for making up/caring for the keratin materials in form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.
  • the invention also relates to a method for making up/caring for the keratin materials, in particular the skin , using said composition.
  • Facial oil especially facial oils containing active ingredients are of a great interest of the consumers, due to its nourishing effect as veil as its transparent or slightly translucent appearance.
  • the products as such bring to the skin various nourishing effect thanks to the oils and the active ingredients.
  • it has the drawback of lacking stability and lacking transparency when incorporating water or hydrophilic active ingredients to the products.
  • due to its high am ount of oils it causes uncomfortable feeling, such as oily as well as shiny after application , which is not desirable to the consumers.
  • the other type of the conventionally available faical oil is makeup removers containing oils, surfactants, as well as active ingredients. It possesses a pleasant transparent appearance as well as good makeup rem oving effect . However, it m ay cause skin irritation issue due to the high level of surfactants. Besides, there also remainsthe problem of oily feeling after application.
  • a fine emulsion such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil nano- or micro-emulsion is particularly interesting in cosmetic products due to its transparent or slightly translucent aspect .
  • These em ulsions have an aqueous or oily phase in form of very small droplets, i.e., of droplets less than 4 ⁇ in size .
  • phase inversion tem erature technique PIT emulsions
  • PIT emulsions phase inversion tem erature technique
  • the principle of phase inversion tern perature (or PIT) em ulsifi cation is, in theoretical term s, well known to those skilled in the art; it was described in 1 968 by K . Shinoda (J. Chem . Soc. Jpn., 1968, 89, 435). It was shown that this em unification technique makes it possible to obtain stable fine emulsions (K. Shinoda and H .
  • the emulsion is of water-in-oil type and , as it cools, this emulsion inverts at the phase inversion tem erature so as to become an em ulsion of oil-in-water type , having beforehand passed through a state of micro emulsion. This process makes it possible to readily obtain emulsions with a diameter generally less than 4 ⁇ .
  • HLB hydrophilic lipophilic balance
  • composition comprising two surfactants and hydrophilic active ingredients.
  • one subject of the present invention is a composition comprising at least one fatty phase, and:
  • the composition of the present invention is an emulsion, in particular a nano-, or micro-emulsion.
  • the com position of the present invention is a water-in-oil nano- or micro-emulsion.
  • the present invention is transparent.
  • the composition of the present invention has a dispersed phase which has a median pupe size by volume , i .e., less than 4 ⁇ , or less than 300 nm , preferably from 1 0 nm to 180 nm , more preferably from 20 nm to 1 50 nm .
  • the composition as such can be in the form of a nano- or micro -em ulsion possessing a pleasant transparent appearance, thout any instability or phase separation.
  • the com position as such provides an improved comfort after application, i .e., comfortable feeling after application and good penetration, instead of oily and shiny skin feelings that may be caused by the conventional products.
  • the other subject of the present invention is a method for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, , for example the skin, the hair, and the nails, in particular the skin, preferably the face and the lips, com prising a step of applying to the skin the composition in accordance wth the invention.
  • micro-emulsion m ay be defined in two ways, nam ely, in a broader sense and in a narrower sense. That is to say, there are one case ('hi icroem ulsion in the narrow sense") in which the microemulsion refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a ternary system having three ingredients of an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant , and the other case ('micro-emulsion in the broad sense”) in which am ong therm odynam ically unstable typical em ulsion system s the m icroem ulsion additionally includes those such emulsions presenting transparent or translucent appearances due to their smaller pulpe sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al.,Oil Chemistry, Vol.
  • micro-emulsion refers to a "micro -em ulsion in the narrowsense," i .e., a therm odynam ically stable isotropic single liquid phase.
  • the micro-emulsion refers to either one state of an OIW (oil -in- water) type microemulsion in which oil is solubilized by m icelles, a IO (wster-in-oil) type microemulsion in which water is solubilized by reverse m icelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules are rendered infinite so that both the aqueous phase and oil phase have a continuous strudure.
  • OIW oil -in- water
  • IO wster-in-oil
  • nano-emulsion here m eans an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase wth a size of less than 350 nm , the dispersed phase being stabilized by a crown of the (b) nonionic surfadant that m ay optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type , at the dispersed phase/continuous phase interface.
  • the transparency of the nano-emulsions arises from the small size of the dispersed phase, this sm all size being obtained by virtue of the use of mechanical energy and especially a high -pressure hom ogeniier.
  • Manoemulsions can be distinguished from microem ulsions by their strudure. Specifically, micro-emulsions are therm odynamically stable dispersions form ed from , for example, the (b) nonionic surfactant micells swollen with the (a) oil . Furthermore, m icroemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy in order to be prepared.
  • composition according to the present invention m ay be in the form of an OA V nano- or micro-emulsion, a W/O nano- or micro-emulsion or a bicontinuous emulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention be in the form of a water- in-oil nano- or m icro-emulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention being in the form of water-in-oil emulsion, and the water or aqueous phase be in the form of a droplet or globule with a median particle size by volume Dv50 of 300 nm or less, preferably from 1 0 nm to 30 nm , and more preferably 20 nm to 50 nm .
  • the median median median particle size by volume Dv50 is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the m aximum monkey diameter below which 50% of the sample volume easts (see in A Basic Guide To Particle haracterization, page 1 0,
  • the mean size by volume of the droplets of aqueous phase is m easured using a Malvern Nano
  • ⁇ 90 particle sizer (sold by Malvern Instruments). These measurements are carried out on the composition of the present invention (non-diluted). A computer program makes it possible to obtain the median particle size by volum e DvSO (see Zetasizer Nano Series User Manual ,
  • the median particle size by volume DvSO of the droplets of aqueous phase of the composition of the invention is 300 nm or less, preferably from 1 0 nm to 1 80 nm , and more preferably 20 nm to 150 nm .
  • the com position according to the present invention can have a transparent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.
  • the transparency may be measured by measuring the transmittance with absorption spedrometer in the visible region (for example, transparency was measured with a V-550 (JASCO) wrth a 10 mm width cell as an average of visible light transmittance (between 400 and 800 nm). The measurem ent is taken on the undiluted composition. The blank is determined with distilled water.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention m ay preferably have a
  • HLB hydro hilic-lipophi lie balance
  • the HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the su factant ⁇ s) used according to the invention is the HLB according to Griffin, defined in the publication J . Soc. Cosm . Chem ., 1 954 (Vol 5), pages 249-256 or the HLB determined experimentally and as described in the publication from the authors F . P uisieux and M .
  • keratin material is intended to m ean the skin and the hair.
  • skin we intend all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the skin, in particular the face and the li s.
  • the present invention relatesto a com position comprising two surfactants and hydrophilic active ingredients.
  • one subject of the present invention is a composition comprising at least a fatty phase, and:
  • At least one hydrophilic active ingredient is at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty phase.
  • the fatty phase of the present invention is a continuous phase.
  • the fatty phase of the present invention comprises at least one oil.
  • tail means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 n C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the fatty phase(s) that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon -based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention com prises hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • non-volatile oil means oil that remains on the keratin m aterials, especially the skin and the lips at room tem perature (20-25"C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More specifically, non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0 .01 mg/cm z /rnin.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips in less than one hour, at room tem perature (20-25"C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 Anin, lim its included.
  • silicon oil means oil comprising at least one silicon atom , and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • m ention may be made of
  • linear or cyclic volatiles oils especially those with a viscosity of lessthan or equal to 8 centi stokes (cSt) (8 ⁇ 10 "s m3 ⁇ 4), and especially containing from 2 to 1 0 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 1 0 carbon atoms; of linear or cydic non-volatile poly dim ethylsiloxanes (P DMS][ polydim ethyl si loxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;
  • P DMS linear or cydic non-volatile poly dim ethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones for instance phenyl trimethi cones, phenyl dim ethicones, phenyl trim ethyl si loxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dim ethicones, diphenyl m ethyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenyl ethyl trim ethyl siloxy silicates,
  • mentions may be m ade, of the silicone oils, such as cyclohexasiloxane which is available under the tradem ark , for example, KF-996 sold by the company Shin Etsu , or Xiameter* PMX-0246 sold by the com pany Dow Corning , or dimethicones which is available under the trademark Xiam eter* PMX-200 silicone fluid 5cs, Xiameter* PMX-200 silicone fluid 350cs, or Xiameter* PMX-200 silicone fluid 10cs sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • the silicone oils such as cyclohexasiloxane which is available under the tradem ark , for example, KF-996 sold by the company Shin Etsu , or Xiameter* PMX-0246 sold by the com pany Dow Corning , or dimethicones which is available under the trademark Xiam eter* PMX-200 silicone fluid 5cs, Xia
  • fluoro oil means oil comprising at least one fluorine atom .
  • the fluoro oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP -A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.
  • the term 'perfluoro compounds means com pounds in which all the hydrogen atom s have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • the fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.
  • perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mentions may be m ade of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
  • the fluoro oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and especially the Fiflow* products sold by the company Creations Couelles. I n particular, use m ay be made of the fluoro oil for which the INCI name is P erfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chem icals.
  • the term 'hydrocarbon-based oil means oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen , nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils mention may be made of
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin for example Beta-carotene sold under the tradename Betatene 30% OLV by Cognis (BASF), Simm ondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed oil sold under the tradename Jojoba Oil Golden by Desert Whale , Rosa Canina Fruit Oil sold under the tradenam e Rosehip Seed Oil by Nestle World Trade Co.
  • Beta-carotene sold under the tradename Betatene 30% OLV by Cognis (BASF), Simm ondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed oil sold under the tradename Jojoba Oil Golden by Desert Whale , Rosa Canina Fruit Oil sold under the tradenam e Rosehip Seed Oil by Nestle World Trade Co.
  • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room tem erature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 2 to 26 carbon atom s,
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil is hydrocarbon -based plant oils, synthetic esters, or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition may comprise a fatty phase presenting in the composition in an am ount of at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one first emulsifier chosen from polyoxylalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester.
  • the em ulsifier has a HLB value (hyd oph ili ( ⁇ hydrophobic balance) of less than 7, according to Griffin's method, at the tem perature of 25 "C.
  • the polyoxylalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester is, in particular, a block polymer, preferably of Formula (1 ):
  • A is pol fhydroxylated acid) block
  • B is poly( ethylene oxide) block.
  • A is a poly(hydroxylated acid) block chosen from the compound of Form ula (2):
  • R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain comprising C 1z to C m carbon atoms, substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
  • R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain comprising C u to C 1 ⁇ carbon atoms, substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
  • the block A is hydroxystearic acid, for example 12- hydroxystearicacid.
  • B is a poly( ethylene oxide) block comprising from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxi e.
  • B contains from 20 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • B is a polyf ethylene oxide) block containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • the composition comprises from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.25% to 2.5% by weight of the first em ulsifier, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least a second emulsifier, which is different from the first emulsifier.
  • the second emulsifier is chosen from:
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • mono- or olyoxyethylenated alcohol is intended to m ean an alcohol com prising one or more -CH ⁇ -CH ⁇ -O- groups.
  • mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol is intended to mean an alcohol comprising one or m ore -CH ⁇ -CHCCHJ-O- groups.
  • the mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol(s) comprising from 1 to 8 cartoon atoms are chosen from the compounds of Formula (3) below
  • Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • m represents a num er (average value) ranging from 1 to 300;
  • n a num ber (average value) ranging from 1 to 300;
  • Ri represents a saturated linear alkyl radical com prising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • m is between 20 and 30; preferably between 22 and 28, and n is between 20 and 30 , prefera ly between 22 and 28.
  • the mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohol (s) comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atom s are chosen from butyl alcohols oxyethylenated and o xypropylen ated wth 20 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and wth 20 to 30 m ol of propylene oxide, preferably oxyethylenated (26 E O), oxypropylenated (26 PO) butyl alcohol (IN CI name: PPG-26-Buteth-26).
  • composition in accordance wth the invention comprises at least one oxyethylenated non- ionic surfactant other than the mono- or polyoxyethylenated and mono- or polyoxypropylenated alcohols as previously defined.
  • oxyethylenated surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant com prising -CHz-CHz-O- groups.
  • the surfactants have an HLB ranging from 1 3 to 20 and more particularly from 1 4 to 17 , according to Griffin's m ethod, at the temperature of 25 "C .
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the context of the invention are, for example, chosen from triglycerides oxyethylenated with 20 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide and preferably with 30 to 80 mol of ethylene oxide, and more particularly from hydrogenated castor oils oxyethylenated wth 30 to 70 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the context of the invention may in particular be chosen from oxyeth lenated (60 EO) hydrogenated castor oil (INCI name: P EG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) and oxyethylenated (40 EO) hydrogenated castor oil (INCI nam e: PE G-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil).
  • the com osition of the present invention com rise from 0.001 % to 1 % by W3ight, preferably from 0.002% to 0.5% by weight , more preferably from 0.002% to 0.2% by weight of the second emulsifier, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the first and the second em ulsifier is from 5 to 50, preferably from 1 0 to 40, more preferably from 1 5 to 30, and even more preferablythe ratio is 20.
  • composition of the present invention com prises at least one hydrophilic active ingredient .
  • hydrophilic active ingredient refers to the active ingredients which are soluble in water at least 0.001 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
  • the hydrophilic active ingredients can be in form of a liquid or an aqueous solution.
  • hydrophilic active ingredients it is possible to use conventionally used hydrophilic active ingredients, such as antioxidants, free radical scavengers, moisturizing agents, melanin regulators, tanning accelerators, depigm enting agents, skin -coloring agents, liporegulators, thinning agents (amincissants), anti-acne agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti- ageing agents, anti-winkle agents, anti-UV agents (such as benzene-1 ,4-di(3- m ethyl idenecamph or- 10-sulphonic) acid), keratolytic agents, anti -inflammatory agents, refreshing agents (refraichaynes), cicatrizing agents, vascular protectors, antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, immunom odulators, nutrients, anti-dandruff agents, essential oils and perfum es.
  • antioxidants such as antioxidants, free radical sca
  • the hydrophilic active ingredient is chosen from hydro hilic plant extracts.
  • m entions may be m ade in particular, the hydrophilic plant extracts, such as cordyceps sinensis mushroom extract, which is, for example , sold under the tradenam e Cordyceps E ract 1 2% by Blue California Co, Citrus Lim on (Lemon) Fruit E >dract, which is, for example, sold under the tradename Secrets De Citron by Gattefosse, Ganoderma Lucidum E xtract, which is, for example, sold under the tradename Ganoderma E xtract BG by Maruien, Glycerin and Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, which is, for example, sold under the tradenam e P urisoft TM POE L S 9726 by Labo. Serobi unanimouss (BASF), Prunum Yedoensis Leaf E xtract, which is, for example , sold underthe tradename Sakura Extract B by lchimaru P harms, or a mixture thereof.
  • the hydrophilic acti e ingredient is hydrophilic plant extracts.
  • cordyceps sinensis mushroom extract is used in the com position of the present invention.
  • the composition com prises less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 % to 1 .5% by weight of the hydrophilic active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the com osition.
  • composition according to the invention further comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase according to the present invention is preferably a dispersed phase, more preferably in the form of droplets or globules.
  • the m edian particle size by volume Dv50 of the aqueous droplets or globules is less than 300 nm , preferably from 1 0 nm to 180 nm , and more preferably 20 nm to 150 nm .
  • the aqueous phase m ay be formed exclusively by the hydrophilic active ingredients of the present invention.
  • the aqueous droplets or globules m ay contain water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-m iscible organic solvents (at room tem perature of 20-25"C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri ropylene glycol (Ci-CJalkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri ethylene glycol (C ⁇ - Jalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropano
  • a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than 40%, more preferably from 0.05% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is in form of an emulsion, such as a water-in-oil em ulsion, or oil-in-water emulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano-or micro-emulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O AV nano- or micro-emulsion, a W/O nano-or micro-emulsion or a bicontinuous emulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention be in the form of a water- in-oil nano- or m icro-em ulsion.
  • composition according to the present invention being in the form of water-in-oil nano- or micro-emulsion, and the water or aqueous phase be in the form of a droplet or globule with a m edian particle size by volume Dv50 of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 nm to 180 nm , and more preferably 20 nm to 150 nm .
  • composition according to the present invention can have a transparent appearance.
  • the cosmetic com osition according to the present invention may preferably have atransmittance greater than 80%, preferably greaterthan 85%, more preferably greater than 90%, and even more preferably greaterthan 95%, using the visible light with a wavelength of 700 nm .
  • a composition according to the invention further com rises at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, additional oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, resins, additional surfactants, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, disperse nts, additional antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, stabilizers, neutralizes, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from gums, resins, additional surfactants, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, disperse nts, additional antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, stabilizers, neutralizes, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present invention comprises a com bination of preserving agents.
  • the combination com prises:
  • aromatic alcohor means any compound that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one entity chosen from benzene and naphthalene rings and at least one alcohol function (OH) directly linked to the ring or linked to at least one substrtuent of the ring.
  • aromatic alcohols that may be used in the composition include, but are not limited to: benzyl alcohol, benzoyltsopro anol.
  • benzyl glycol phenoxyeth nol, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, methylphenylbutanol, phenoxyisopropanol, phenylisohexanol, phenylpropanol, phenylethyl alcohol, and mrxtu res thereof.
  • the aromatic alcohol is phenoxyethanol.
  • the aromatic alcohol, in particular phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol are formulated in a ratio wherein ph noxyethanol/caprylyl glycol is from 5 to 05, more preferably, the ratio of phenoxyethanol/ca rylyl glycol is 2 to 1.
  • the composition comprises less than or equal to 1 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 0.8% by weight of the preserving agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention can be used for a non4heraputic process, such as a cosm etic process or m ethod, for making up/caring for the keratin m aterials, such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by being applied to the skin, especially the face and the lips.
  • the present invention also relatesto a use of the composition according to the present invention, as it is or in cosmetic product for making up/caring for/deansing/make up removing products for the skin, especially forthe face and the lips.
  • Comparative formula 1 does not contain first emulsifier, the second emulsifier, or hydrophilic active ingredients;
  • Comparative form ula 2 comprises a non-ionic emulsifier wth a HLB more than 7, according to Griffin's Method, at 25 t .
  • Comparative formula 1 ' is derived from the invention form ula 1 by adding 0.001 % of hydrophilic active ingredient Cordyceps Sinensis Extract to the formula;
  • Comparative formulas 3 and 4 were prepared by replacing the emulsifier in the com parative formula 2 by the following em ul si tiers (2.1 % by weight of the emulsifier).
  • Phase A preparation mixing phase A1 and A2, and heating the m ixture to 50 ⁇ , stiringthe mixture using VMI for 1 5 min, until the phase A2 was melt, and the mixture was horn ogeneous;
  • Phase B preparation dissolving Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, if present, in water at 25 ⁇ , then adding PPG-26-Buteth-26 (and) PEG-40 Hvdrogenated Castor Oil, if present, into the solution, stirring the mixture using VMI fori 5 minutes, until homogeneous;
  • phase B additive phase B into phase A drop by drop at 50 t, meanwhile mixing the mixture using VMI for 45min, until the mixture was transparent;
  • step 4) adding phase C into the mixture obtained in step 3) at 40 t, stirring and cooling down the mixture at 25 t, then adding phase D to the mixture, and stirring using VMI for 15min until the mixture is homogeneous.
  • Particle size was measured with a Malvern Nano ⁇ 90 with non diluted condition.
  • Transparency was measured wrth a V-550 (JASCO) with a 10 mm width cell as an average of visible light transm ittance (between 400 and 800 nm). Then the transparency of the formulas underthe light with 700 nm wavelength was observed .
  • invention formulas , 2 and 3 comparing to the com parative formulas , 1 ' , and 2 to 4, possess good stability and a good transparency. Meanwhile, the inventions formulas possess improved comfort feel after application, such as very good penetration, without feeling of oily or shiny, as compared to the comparative formula .

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Abstract

Cette invention concerne une composition comprenant au moins une phase grasse, et : au moins un premier émulsifiant choisi parmi un ester d'acide gras de polyoxylalkylène glycol ayant un HLB inférieur à 7 ; au moins un second émulsifiant, différent du premier, choisi parmi : a) au moins un alcool mono- ou polyoxyéthyléné et un alcool mono- ou polyoxypropyléné comprenant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone ; b) au moins un tensioactif non ionique oxyéthyléné, différent de a) ; c) ou un un mélange de ceux-ci, et au moins une substance active hydrophile.
PCT/CN2013/086716 2013-11-07 2013-11-07 Composition comprenant des tensioactifs et des substances actives hydrophiles WO2015066877A1 (fr)

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PCT/CN2013/086716 WO2015066877A1 (fr) 2013-11-07 2013-11-07 Composition comprenant des tensioactifs et des substances actives hydrophiles
CN201380081952.4A CN106102698B (zh) 2013-11-07 2013-11-07 包含表面活性剂和亲水性活性成分的组合物

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2024161340A1 (fr) 2023-02-02 2024-08-08 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Compositions comprenant des principes actifs hydrophiles dans l'huile

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT201700088554A1 (it) * 2017-08-02 2019-02-02 Novamont Spa Composizioni erbicide a base di acido pelargonico e altri acidi
CN111529432A (zh) * 2020-04-20 2020-08-14 上海舒彩网络科技有限公司 反胶束增溶卸妆油及其制备方法

Citations (2)

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US20050169946A1 (en) * 2002-03-04 2005-08-04 Helene Lannibois Cosmetic formulation comprising at least two active substances in a multiple emulsion optionally mixed with a single emulsion
US7074747B1 (en) * 1999-07-01 2006-07-11 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Cleansing compositions

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN100434677C (zh) * 2006-12-18 2008-11-19 谭光荣 自控动力按需输出废气机内循环二次燃烧发动机
FR2970176B1 (fr) * 2011-01-10 2015-01-02 Oreal Procede de coloration ou d'eclaircissement de fibres keratiniques en deux parties, a partir d'une emulsion directe alcaline riche en huile a base de tensioactif non ionique solide de hlb allant de 1,5 a 10.

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7074747B1 (en) * 1999-07-01 2006-07-11 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Cleansing compositions
US20050169946A1 (en) * 2002-03-04 2005-08-04 Helene Lannibois Cosmetic formulation comprising at least two active substances in a multiple emulsion optionally mixed with a single emulsion

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2024161340A1 (fr) 2023-02-02 2024-08-08 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Compositions comprenant des principes actifs hydrophiles dans l'huile

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