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US2400604A - Necktie - Google Patents

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Publication number
US2400604A
US2400604A US456247A US45624742A US2400604A US 2400604 A US2400604 A US 2400604A US 456247 A US456247 A US 456247A US 45624742 A US45624742 A US 45624742A US 2400604 A US2400604 A US 2400604A
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Prior art keywords
necktie
collar
knot
fabric
band
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US456247A
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John T Scully
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Individual
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D25/00Neckties
    • A41D25/02Neckties with ready-made knot or bow, with or without bands
    • A41D25/027Means for holding the necktie

Definitions

  • NECKTIE Filed Aug. 26, 1942 s Sheets-Sheet 1 J72 0612 for J. T. SCULLY May 21, 1946.
  • the present invention relates to wearing apparel and has especial reference -to a necktie adapted to receive fastening means and tobe removably held thereby in position at the front of a collar.
  • An object of the invention is to provide a necktie of the four-in-hand type, and without the usual neck-encircling band portion, which can be easily securely clamped against the outer looking tab of a stiff, semi-still, or soft collar.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a necktie of the four-in-hand type which is especially adapted to be easily clamped against the outer locking tab of a stiff, semi-stiff, or soft collar by a detachable rotary clamp which will hold a portion of the fabric of the tie at the rear of the knot between the outer locking tab of the collar and the clamp.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a necktie of the four-in-hand typewhich is adapted to be fastened at the rear of the knot portion by .detachable fastening means receivable in a perforated area extending through the fabric of the necktie and which will provide a knot portion capable of being tightened or loosened by the wearer, and, further, which will provide relative adjustability between the upper part of a longi- I tudinally depending portion and the front portion of the transverse fabric portion passing over the upper part of the depending portion so that the parts may be relatively adjusted to vary the ap pearance of inclination or declination of the knot portion.
  • necktie of the four-in-hand type which can be. easily cleaned and pressed; can be stowed, packaged, or shipped insmall space; can be manufactured simply and at relatively low cost involving a minimum of hand work; which will save not only fabric material but also fastener material, which can be tied up to present a neat appearance, and to present a'soft appearance in the knot-portion; which can be simply knotted and unknotted at the front of a stiff, narrow opening-,'collar repeatedly with little or no risk of damage to necktie fabric; which can if the wearer so desires be knotted before fastening at the front of a soft collar and be 'unfastened while knotted; which can betied up to present pliable fabric at opposite sides of the,
  • a further important object is to provide a necktie which when fastened at the front of the collar wilienable the wearer to pivotally swing on a fabric hinge the transverse band portion of a four-in-hand knot upwardly to cover the fastener, and downwardly to make the fastener accessible to the fingers for unfastening.
  • Fig. .1 is a rear view'in elevation of a fabric necktie illustrating parts embodied in the invention.
  • Fig. 2 is a side view partly in elevation and partly in section showing a suitable member of a clamp used to fasten the necktie in position at the front of a collar.
  • Fig. 3 is a side view partly in 'elevationand partly in section of reclamp member co-operable with the part shown in Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the part shown in Fig. 3.-
  • Fig. 4a is a side elevation of a modification of a clamp member and a sectional side view of a modification of a cooperating clamp member.
  • Fig. 5 is a fragmentary front and rear View in elevation of the necktie shownin Fig. 1 with relative positions of parts changed and with the necktie shown at the front of a collar together with the part shown in Fig. 2 in relative position.
  • Fig. 6 is a fragmentary front and rear view in elevation of the necktie shown in Figs. 1 and 5 clamped in position at the front of a collar.
  • Fig. '7 is a side view with parts in section and in elevation showing the necktie fastened at the front of a collar and illustrating relative arrangements and locations of parts, and showing the manner of forming the knot.
  • Fig. 7a is a fragmentary elevational and sectional side View of parts.
  • Fig. 8 is a fragmentary side elevation illustratof the knotted necktiein position at'the front of a collar.
  • Fig. is a fragmentaryside sectionaland side elevational view of the knotted necktie.
  • Fig. 11 is a rear view in elevation of a fabric necktie of modified construction.
  • Fig. 12 is a side sectional view of shirt and collar parts and a side elevation of a modification of clamping member.
  • Fig. 13. is a side sectional view with :-a part shOWn in elevation of a further modification in construction of clamp member.
  • Fig. 14- is a side sectional view with a part shown in elevation of a further modification in i construction of a clamp member.
  • Fig. 15 is a rear view in elevation with apart turned inside out of a further modification of fabric necktie.
  • Fig. 16 is a fragmentary front view showing the necktie shown in Fig. 15 knotted and in position at the front of a collar.
  • Fig. 17 is a rear elevation withpart s folded of a further modification of 'a fabric necktie.
  • the central longitudinal seam of the neck- Fig 18 is a rear view of parts of the necktie I shown in Fig. 17.
  • Fig. 19 is a fragmentary front view showing the necktie shown in Fig. 17 knotted and in position at the front of a collar.
  • Fig. 20 is a fragmentary perspective view illustrating a suitable and convenient method of pothe necktie shown in Figs. 21 or 22, and 23.
  • Fig. 28 is a topelevation' of a part shown in Fi 2'7.
  • the fabric necktie T is of the four-inhand type devoid of the usual neck-encircling band portion, and is provided with a tapered outer depending por'tion30 which is widened in the direction of its free end, and with a tapered inner and narrower depending portion 3
  • the necktie is made by cutting a fabric cover to pattern and folding the longitudinal edges towards each other, padding the cover with a fabric inner lining and loosely stitching, for the most part, the resultant longitudinal back seam, and for increased resilience, preferably loosely stitching by cated, from the dotted line A to the dotted linev B and which is adapted' to be formed into a tie is securely stitched along the overlapping longitudinal edge as indicated by 38 for a purpose to be later described.
  • Priorto knotting, the inner depending portion 3
  • the detachable fastener receivable in" the perforated portion of the necktie may be used to fasten the necktie; preferably the detachable fastener isa clamp, more preferably arotary clamp made in two detachable parts, such a rotary clamp being shown in Figs.
  • one part being in the form of a collar button 4
  • the rotary knob is devoid of sharp edges and all edges including the edges at the outer end of the recess are preferably rounded, and the rounded top edge 50 is spaced a greater distance from the axis of the bolt than is the bottom edge 5
  • the general shape of the knob is such that the sides and top and bottom converge from the rear or clamping face to a domelike or spherically rounded outer end which is a relatively short distance from the clamping face, the upperpart of the outer face sloping slightly convexly from'the edge 50; the short bottom part of the outer face extending forward from the bottom edge 5
  • the top edge 50 is longer than tions, this shape and relative dimensions will provide means whereby, by feeL'the wearer can determine the proper relative location of the part in affixing the necktie, and as a further aid in avoiding confusion as to the relative location of the part in aflixing the necktie visual means in the form of an arrow of different color than the outer face of the knob is provided on .the outer face visible in aflixed position to the wearer with the aid of a mirror, and without a mirror indicating before affixing the edge which should be uppermost.
  • the rear of the knot portion of .the necktie will be folded over the edges 50 and BI approximately on the lines A and B respectively, the knob acting as a vertical spreader of.
  • the collar button 52 is provided with a solid cylindrical shank 53 and an externally threaded head 54 and the rotary knob 55 which as shown is of slightly different cross-sectional shape is provided with an internally threaded cylindrical recess wall 56, the cooperating parts requiring less strength in the material or materials.
  • the necktie is shown folded with the outer depending and inner depending portions crossed providing the pliable sleeve-like band loop 32 which will provide the outer transverse knot band.
  • the band 100p provides a generally conical hollow, the open upper end of which is larger than the lower open end.
  • the perforations are passed over the head of the collar button which in this instance locks the neckband of the shirt S and the locking tabs of a starched turn down collar CO, and as shown in Fig. 6 the rotary knob is screwed to the collar button and clamps the fabric of the necktie against the outer locking tab of the collar, the dimensions of the knob being such that in a collar of a relatively narrow opening at the front the knob can be eccentrically revolved passing in revolution on the inside of the outer fold of the collar or the outside of the outer fold; and
  • the width of the knob being narrow enough to provide a suitable margin of necktie fabric at opposite sides thereof to be folded over the knob by the It has been found desirable necktie in the knot portion not only to prevent bagoid loop portion.
  • Fig.-7 the necktie is shown before knotting in clamped position at the front of the collar with the neckband ends N of the shirt, the inner overlapping locking tab 51 and the outer overlapping locking tab 58, of the collar, the inner end 39 of the outer depending portion 30 and the inner end 40 of the inner depending portion 3
  • the upper edge 63 of the transverse band portion of the knot can be brought nearer to the collar outer overlapping locking tab or against it if desired by raising the outer depending portion and moving the band upwardly flush with the back 6 4 of the knot with the band sliding longitudinally relatively to the outer depending portion and more closely surrounding the knob, the function of the parts and the resilience of the fabric tending to hold the parts in the desired relating positions.
  • the knot may be easily untied by pulling the upper edge 63 downwardly by the finger and seizing the exposed upper part of the outer depending'portion to draw it out.
  • the necktie can be unfastened in knotted form b'y'squeezing the fabric of the knotted portion between the fingers and unscrewing the knob clamp, particularly when worn with a soft turn down collar, but it should be pointed out that the edges of the outer fold of a starched collar are usually relatively rough and are apt to injure some necktie fabric materials in repeated fastening and unfastening and result in depreciating the durability of the necktie.
  • Fig. 11 the necktie Ta of the four-in-hand type is shown provided with a longitudinal side seam at the back, the fabric having been folded on the bias, and providing the outer cover and lining of the same fabric by the'method of folding, all of which is well known in the art, the necktie Ta being devoid of a neck-encircling band portion.
  • the parts in Fig. 11 corresponding to the parts in Fig. 1 bear the same reference numerals and letters with a prime mark added.
  • the collar button part of the clamp may be modified to facilitate the fastening of a detachable'collar to a shirt neckband and at the same time draw the collar to a tighter fit around the neck
  • the internally threaded collar button 65 is provided with a cylindrical shank 66 the .outer end of which adjacent the head is provided with a cylindrical portion of smaller diameter in the form of a relatively narrow neck portion 61, the two shank portions merging at their outer surface on an annular spherically surfaced shoulder 68; this neck will facilitate passing the inner and outer overlapping locking tab ofa starched collar over the collar button head to the neck whence they can be forced on the larger part of the shank by the fingers or knob clamp, as desired, spreadingthe button holes and drawing the collar tighter around the neck.
  • the screw or bolt 10' is preferably of a corrosion resisting metal moulded with the clamp.
  • the clamp H shown in Fig. 14 is provided with.
  • the fabric necktie Tb shown in Fig. 15 has the inner end of the outer depending portion 30a folded to'provide the fabric band loop 32a (shown inside out) whose edge 14 overlaps one of the side longitudinal edges of the outer depending portion and lies between the inner end of the innor depending portion 31a, the overlapping edges all being securely stitched together as'shown and the stitching securing the edge 15 of the-inner depending portion flatly to the band loop; in instances where the material of both depending portions is very thin an additional stitch or two as at--l4a may be provided stitching the lower margins of the band loop, particularly if the width of the material of the outer depending portion endproviding the band loop is relatively wide to produce a relatively long knot; the perforation in the outer depending portion and the perforation 36" are in alignment to provide the fastener receiving perforation 36a, all edges surrounding which are buttonhole stitched together as at 31a; this necktie upon being knotted, as shown in Fig.
  • 17, 18, and 19 has its outer and inner depending portions 301) and 3 lb secured at the edges of the perforations, in the inner ends of the outer and inner depending portions and forming the fastener-receiving perforation or hole 36a, by the buttonhole stitching 31a, and the relatively short inner depending portion has its outer end 16 secured to the rear fabric face of the outer depending portion by stitching, 11 which also stitches the folded edges of the outer end of the inner depending portion; at a distance from the a outer end of the outer depending portion which will be approximately opposite a shirt fly button,
  • a cooperable fastener 18 which is secured at its upper end to the outer depending portion by stitching l9 and which is in the form of a strip of tape 80 looped to provide the button hole 8
  • the perforation in the outer depending portion will pref-' erably have its'central axis slightly disposed laterally of the longitudinal axis of the outer depending portion, the side depending upon whether the material is folded to left or right to provide the band loop32b which has the form of a substantially hollow frusto-conical loop fold formed by a tubular fold of the body of material on the inner end of thelong depending portion and projecting laterally or rearwardly of the rear face thereof in such a manner that the front face of the material of the necktie is disposed as the outer face of said body of material; the stitching 31a provides the means for fixedly securing the necktie folded in the band loop foldwhich fold in this instance, Fig.
  • the four-in-hand necktie, or the modifications thereof, shown herein may be positioned and fastened in any suitable manner convenient to the wearer, and in Fig. 20 there is illustrated a convenient and easy method of aflixing the necktie which in practice appears best:
  • the sides 82 and 83, the latter usually the box plait side, of the fly front of the shirt are temporarily left unbuttoned and are spread apart by the thumb, not shown, which is inserted upwardly between the base of the collar button and the wearer's neck and which presses against the collar button forcing it and the neckband and collar locking tabs outwardly from the wearer's neck while at the same time the middle finger 84 and the forefinger 85, of the same hand, hold the parts spread as shown with the fastening perforation passed over the collar button head; with the necktie in this position the knob clamp i screwed on the collar button with the other hand, and after afilxment the parts are adjusted and drawn as desired; from experience it is believed preferable before
  • the spects is the same as the previously described necktie T, is provided with a transverse fabric member 86 of the same fabric and pattern as the remainder of the necktie, having laterally projecting portions in the form of-short tabs 81 and 88 which at their outer ends are provided with spaced buttonholes 89 and 90 cooperable with fastener buttons carried on the inner band of a turn down collar to retain the tabs in position between theouter fold and the inner band of turn down collar.
  • the necktie will be knotted in the manner described in connection with Figs. 1 and 5-10; the transverse strip is securely'stitched to the longitudinal portion by stiching 9
  • the fabric of the transverse portion is folded on the bias with the renecktie T, which in other re- I
  • the transverse member has h .a substantially central perforation aligned with 36b in alignment with the perforation 35" and sulting edges of the seam on the rear face turned 78 in, overlapped and stitched together and whereby the tabs are relatively thin in these regions so buttons to impress the outer fold of the collar the 35". and 36b aligned, the buttonholes will be located high relatively tov the axis of the tabs.
  • the necktie Tc is shown provided with a transverse member and projecting tab portions 87 and 88' similar to tabs 89 and 99 but with buttonholes 89' and 90' located high relatively to the axis of the tabs; the central fastener-receiving perforations being all in alignment to provide the fastener-receiving perforation 360, the edges being buttonhole stitched together as indicated at 31b.
  • is substantially the same as indicated at 9
  • these tab portions are very pliable and easily folded transversely so that the necktie can be made up into a knot 60b in the manner as previously described and by folding the tabs 81' and 88' over the knob clamp and then drawing the depending portions downwarly over the folded tabs and producing a knot with the looped ends 81a and 88a serving to widen the material mass at the upper part of the knot and provide padding between the inner band and outer fold of the collar, and serving to keep the edges of the knot behind the outer fold of a collar whose front ends are coupled by, a safety pin or clip in the well known manner.
  • the collar attached shirt S shown in Fig. 24 is provided with a turn down collar Ca on the inner band 92 of which behind the outer fold F are fastening buttons 93 and 94 on opposite sides of the collar tab locking collar button and necktie fastener 4
  • the knotting of the necktie gives to the tabs an upward and outward
  • the tabs 88b are provided with fabric covers 96 opposite the button holes on their outer faces which are securely stitched at their upper ends as indicated at 91 and are liftable or foldable upwardly relatively to the tab ends as shown by the dotted line 98 i In some instances, as shown in Fig.
  • the inner band 92a of the collar may have the outer layer of its fabric stitched to the inner layer or layers as indicated by 99 to provide a pocket of tapered width as shown, the outer layer being slotted as indicated by 99a to receive and house removable combined stays and fasteners I00 on opposite sides of the collar front.
  • the combined stays and fasteners perforations are provided to receive'the stitching securing the fastening button as will be observed in Fig. 28.
  • the combined stays are arcuately curved longitudinally and are transversely fiat, all edges are rounded or otherwise blunt and the inner and narrower marginal ends are resilient and of smaller thickness in cross-section than the remaining portions; the resilience of the inner end portions which are relatively weak serving to adjust the curvature to small or large necks as the case may be.
  • a pliable, flexible, knottable and unknottable necktie of the four-in-hand type having a relatively short pliable band portion at the inner end of a relatively longer outer depending portion, a fastener-locating perforation formed in said necktie through the material of the inner end of said outer depending portion thereof and extending through the outer and inner faces of v said material, an inner depending portion in said necktie extending from said band portion thereof, a fastener locating perforation formed in said inner depending portion through the material of the inner end thereof adjacent said band portion of said necktie, a four-in-hand knot-forming portion provided in said necktie by said band portion thereof and said inner ends of said depending portions thereof, and said perforations of said necktie being in said knot-forming portion thereof and adapted for detachably receiving fastening means for removably aflixing the rear of said knot-forming portion of said necktie at the front of a collar with which said
  • a pliable, flexible, knottable and unknottable necktie of the four-in-hand type having a relatively long depending portion with inner and outer ends and a partially preformed four-inhand knot-forming portion including a relatively short permanent band loop fold-on the inner end of said relatively long depending portion, a necktie fastener-locating hole formed in said necktie through the material thereof in the rear portion of said knot-forming portion thereof, said depending portion of said necktie being receivable longitudinally movable therein in said band loop thereof in said rear portion of saidknot-forming portion thereof, a.
  • necktie-fastener detachably refold and said band loop foldbeing liftable relaed for receiving fastening means for removably 'afiixing said rear portion of said knot-forming portion of said necktie at the front of a collar with which said necktie is wearable.
  • a pliable, flexible, knottable and unknottable necktie of the four-in-hand type including a relatively long body of material having front and rear faces, a relatively long depending portion in said necktie having inner and outer ends, a part-ially preformed four-in-hand knot-forming portion in said necktie provided by a relatively short band loop fold of substantially hollow frustoconical shape formed in said necktie on the inner end of said relatively long' depending portion by a tubular fold of said body of material projecting laterally of the rear face thereof whereby said front face of the material of said necktie is dis posed as the outer face of said band loop fold with the larger frusto-conical end thereof disposed adjacent to the rear face of said body of material, means fixedly securing the neckt e fold- I ed in said band loop fold, a necktie fastenerlocating hole formed in said necktiethrough the material thereof in the rear portion of said knotforming portion thereof, said outer depending portion of said neckt
  • a knottable and unknottable necktie of the four-in-hand type comprised of pliable, flexible material and having a relatively short, partially preformed knotforming portion on an end of a relatively long depending portion of said necktie, said knotforming portion having a rear portion adapted for positionin adjacently opposite said front of said collar and said knot-forming portion having a band loop fold for receiving said depending portion of said necktie longitudinally movable therein, means fixedly securing the necktie folded in said band loop fold, a.
  • said members thereof for detachably mounting the clamping face of said fastening member may compress the material of said necktie adjacent said hole in said knot-forming portion thereof against a lockable end portion of said collar and whereby the spacing between the clamping faces of said members may be less than the length of said collar button for detachably drawing said collar button in the direction away from the wearer's neck and for causing at least one of said lockable end portions of said collar to be detachably held forced onto said relatively thick and long portion of said shank portion of the collar button.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Description

J. T. SCULLY May 21, 1946.
NECKTIE Filed Aug. 26, 1942 s Sheets-Sheet 1 J72 0612 for J. T. SCULLY May 21, 1946.
NECKTIE Filed Aug. 26, 1942 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 fneni'ar W J. M
y 1946. J. T. SCULLY 2,400,604
NECKTIE Filed Aug. 26, 1942 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented May 21, 1 946 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE John T. Sc :l ly i L::v rence, N. Y. Application August 26, 1942, Serial No. 456,247 Claims. (CI. 2- -'145) The present invention relates to wearing apparel and has especial reference -to a necktie adapted to receive fastening means and tobe removably held thereby in position at the front of a collar.
An object of the invention is to provide a necktie of the four-in-hand type, and without the usual neck-encircling band portion, which can be easily securely clamped against the outer looking tab of a stiff, semi-still, or soft collar.
' A further object of the invention is to provide a necktie of the four-in-hand type which is especially adapted to be easily clamped against the outer locking tab of a stiff, semi-stiff, or soft collar by a detachable rotary clamp which will hold a portion of the fabric of the tie at the rear of the knot between the outer locking tab of the collar and the clamp.
, A further object of the invention is to provide a necktie of the four-in-hand typewhich is adapted to be fastened at the rear of the knot portion by .detachable fastening means receivable in a perforated area extending through the fabric of the necktie and which will provide a knot portion capable of being tightened or loosened by the wearer, and, further, which will provide relative adjustability between the upper part of a longi- I tudinally depending portion and the front portion of the transverse fabric portion passing over the upper part of the depending portion so that the parts may be relatively adjusted to vary the ap pearance of inclination or declination of the knot portion.
Further objects are to provide a necktie of the four-in-hand type which can be. easily cleaned and pressed; can be stowed, packaged, or shipped insmall space; can be manufactured simply and at relatively low cost involving a minimum of hand work; which will save not only fabric material but also fastener material, which can be tied up to present a neat appearance, and to present a'soft appearance in the knot-portion; which can be simply knotted and unknotted at the front of a stiff, narrow opening-,'collar repeatedly with little or no risk of damage to necktie fabric; which can if the wearer so desires be knotted before fastening at the front of a soft collar and be 'unfastened while knotted; which can betied up to present pliable fabric at opposite sides of the,
rear of the knot to be tucked between the outer fold and inner band of a turn down collar with free or pinned outer fold ends; which can be fastened by detached fasteners of various shapes. sizes, relative proportions, of various'light materials, of very inexpensive construction costs, and,
A further important object is to provide a necktie which when fastened at the front of the collar wilienable the wearer to pivotally swing on a fabric hinge the transverse band portion of a four-in-hand knot upwardly to cover the fastener, and downwardly to make the fastener accessible to the fingers for unfastening.
Other objects will become apparent from the description and on reference to the accompanying drawings. I
Reference is made to my cc-pending application for patent for improvements in necktie fasteners' and combined, neckties, Serial No. 456,- 248, filed August 26, 1942. 7
Referring to the drawings:
Fig. .1 is a rear view'in elevation of a fabric necktie illustrating parts embodied in the invention.
Fig. 2 is a side view partly in elevation and partly in section showing a suitable member of a clamp used to fasten the necktie in position at the front of a collar.
Fig. 3 is a side view partly in 'elevationand partly in section of reclamp member co-operable with the part shown in Fig. 2.
Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the part shown in Fig. 3.-
. Fig. 4a is a side elevation of a modification of a clamp member and a sectional side view of a modification of a cooperating clamp member.
Fig. 5 is a fragmentary front and rear View in elevation of the necktie shownin Fig. 1 with relative positions of parts changed and with the necktie shown at the front of a collar together with the part shown in Fig. 2 in relative position.
Fig. 6 is a fragmentary front and rear view in elevation of the necktie shown in Figs. 1 and 5 clamped in position at the front of a collar.
Fig. '7 is a side view with parts in section and in elevation showing the necktie fastened at the front of a collar and illustrating relative arrangements and locations of parts, and showing the manner of forming the knot.
- Fig. 7a is a fragmentary elevational and sectional side View of parts.
Fig. 8 is a fragmentary side elevation illustratof the knotted necktiein position at'the front of a collar.
Fig. is a fragmentaryside sectionaland side elevational view of the knotted necktie.
Fig. 11 is a rear view in elevation of a fabric necktie of modified construction.
" Fig. 12 is a side sectional view of shirt and collar parts and a side elevation of a modification of clamping member.
Fig. 13.is a side sectional view with :-a part shOWn in elevation of a further modification in construction of clamp member.
Fig. 14- is a side sectional view with a part shown in elevation of a further modification in i construction of a clamp member.
Fig. 15 is a rear view in elevation with apart turned inside out of a further modification of fabric necktie. I
Fig. 16 is a fragmentary front view showing the necktie shown in Fig. 15 knotted and in position at the front of a collar.
Fig. 17 is a rear elevation withpart s folded of a further modification of 'a fabric necktie.
sleeve-like band loop by the wearer by folding, and at opposite longitudinal ends of the short portion intermediate, preferably approximately. centrally of, although not necessarily so, the longitudinal side edges of the upper marginal end thereof, the central longitudinal seam of the neck- Fig 18 is a rear view of parts of the necktie I shown in Fig. 17.
Fig. 19 is a fragmentary front view showing the necktie shown in Fig. 17 knotted and in position at the front of a collar.
Fig. 20 is a fragmentary perspective view illustrating a suitable and convenient method of pothe necktie shown in Figs. 21 or 22, and 23.
Fig; 25 is'a fragmentary front elevation-with Fig. 27 is a fragmentary side elevation of amodification in collar parts illustrating a modifi- 1 cation in necktie fasteners.
Fig. 28 is a topelevation' of a part shown in Fi 2'7.
Referring again to the drawings and in more detail:
In Fig. 1, the fabric necktie T is of the four-inhand type devoid of the usual neck-encircling band portion, and is provided with a tapered outer depending por'tion30 which is widened in the direction of its free end, and with a tapered inner and narrower depending portion 3| which also is widened in the direction of its outer end. The necktie is made by cutting a fabric cover to pattern and folding the longitudinal edges towards each other, padding the cover with a fabric inner lining and loosely stitching, for the most part, the resultant longitudinal back seam, and for increased resilience, preferably loosely stitching by cated, from the dotted line A to the dotted linev B and which is adapted' to be formed into a tie is securely stitched along the overlapping longitudinal edge as indicated by 38 for a purpose to be later described. Priorto knotting, the inner depending portion 3| willbe folded upwardly to bring the portion 34 behind the portion 33 and the perforation 36 into alignment with the perforation 35 (or folded vice versa) thereby locating the perforation 35 at the inner end of the outer depending portion which region will be at the rear of the knot and will henceforth be indicated by 39, and thereby locating the perforation 36 at the inner end of the inner depending portion which region will also be at the rear of the knot and Any suit-- will henceforth be indicated by 40. able detachable fastener receivable in" the perforated portion of the necktie may be used to fasten the necktie; preferably the detachable fastener isa clamp, more preferably arotary clamp made in two detachable parts, such a rotary clamp being shown in Figs. 2 and 3, one part being in the form of a collar button 4| having a-circular fiange base 42', a shank 43, an internally threaded bore 44 flared at its outer end, and a head 46 having a relatively wide surface between spherically curved edges; the other part being in the form of a rotary knob 41 made of any suitable light and strong material, preferably molded of a synthetic plastic, provided with a cylindrical recess 48, to receive the collar button head, having its outer end flared, and an externallythreaded bolt 49 coaxial with the recess and which is rotatably receivable in the threaded socket of the collar button. The rotary knob is devoid of sharp edges and all edges including the edges at the outer end of the recess are preferably rounded, and the rounded top edge 50 is spaced a greater distance from the axis of the bolt than is the bottom edge 5| The general shape of the knob is such that the sides and top and bottom converge from the rear or clamping face to a domelike or spherically rounded outer end which is a relatively short distance from the clamping face, the upperpart of the outer face sloping slightly convexly from'the edge 50; the short bottom part of the outer face extending forward from the bottom edge 5| is inclined upwardly and outwardly, and as will be clear on reference to Fig. 4 the top edge 50 is longer than tions, this shape and relative dimensions will provide means whereby, by feeL'the wearer can determine the proper relative location of the part in affixing the necktie, and as a further aid in avoiding confusion as to the relative location of the part in aflixing the necktie visual means in the form of an arrow of different color than the outer face of the knob is provided on .the outer face visible in aflixed position to the wearer with the aid of a mirror, and without a mirror indicating before affixing the edge which should be uppermost. The rear of the knot portion of .the necktie will be folded over the edges 50 and BI approximately on the lines A and B respectively, the knob acting as a vertical spreader of.
this portion of the knot.
In the modified clamp shown in Fig. 4a the collar button 52 is provided with a solid cylindrical shank 53 and an externally threaded head 54 and the rotary knob 55 which as shown is of slightly different cross-sectional shape is provided with an internally threaded cylindrical recess wall 56, the cooperating parts requiring less strength in the material or materials. In Fig. 5 the necktie is shown folded with the outer depending and inner depending portions crossed providing the pliable sleeve-like band loop 32 which will provide the outer transverse knot band. The band 100p provides a generally conical hollow, the open upper end of which is larger than the lower open end. -With the necktie held folded in this or a suitably similar fashion the perforations are passed over the head of the collar button which in this instance locks the neckband of the shirt S and the locking tabs of a starched turn down collar CO, and as shown in Fig. 6 the rotary knob is screwed to the collar button and clamps the fabric of the necktie against the outer locking tab of the collar, the dimensions of the knob being such that in a collar of a relatively narrow opening at the front the knob can be eccentrically revolved passing in revolution on the inside of the outer fold of the collar or the outside of the outer fold; and
the width of the knob being narrow enough to provide a suitable margin of necktie fabric at opposite sides thereof to be folded over the knob by the It has been found desirable necktie in the knot portion not only to prevent bagoid loop portion.
securely stitch the rear seam of the 1 the knob during rotation from opening up the seam but also to prevent a loosely stitched seam from being opened up in the tieing and untieing operation by ones fingers and by its frictionalengageicrient with the outer face of the knob. In
Fig.-7 the necktie is shown before knotting in clamped position at the front of the collar with the neckband ends N of the shirt, the inner overlapping locking tab 51 and the outer overlapping locking tab 58, of the collar, the inner end 39 of the outer depending portion 30 and the inner end 40 of the inner depending portion 3| all clamped together as tightly as desired, and with the outer ends of the depending portions passed through the hollow formed by the sleevelike band loop, and as will be observed the transverse band loop will when the depending portions, or a depending portion, are drawn downwardly and outwardly, be lifted upwardly with the band swinging upwardly on the fabric hinge folding over the bottom edge 5| of the knob and with the larger end of the hollow moving in the direction of divergence of surface of the outer face of the knob. In order to cause the fabric hinge to-fold tightly over the bottom edge of the knob and to raise the fabric relatively to the bottom edges of the'collar locking tabs and generally improve the neatness of the tie in this region it has been found useful before clamping the parts tightly to draw the depending portions upwardly distorting the perforations by elongation as shown at 59 in Fig. 7a so that the bottom edges will be drawn against the collar comer portions BI and 62 behind the outer fold of the turn down collar. The knot so formed may be squeezed by the fingers to alter its shape and its apparent inclination, being sufilciently longer than the protuberance of the knob to allow considerable manual adjustment relative thereto; further, seeFig. 10, the upper edge 63 of the transverse band portion of the knot can be brought nearer to the collar outer overlapping locking tab or against it if desired by raising the outer depending portion and moving the band upwardly flush with the back 6 4 of the knot with the band sliding longitudinally relatively to the outer depending portion and more closely surrounding the knob, the function of the parts and the resilience of the fabric tending to hold the parts in the desired relating positions. The knot may be easily untied by pulling the upper edge 63 downwardly by the finger and seizing the exposed upper part of the outer depending'portion to draw it out. If desired, however, the necktie can be unfastened in knotted form b'y'squeezing the fabric of the knotted portion between the fingers and unscrewing the knob clamp, particularly when worn with a soft turn down collar, but it should be pointed out that the edges of the outer fold of a starched collar are usually relatively rough and are apt to injure some necktie fabric materials in repeated fastening and unfastening and result in depreciating the durability of the necktie.
In Fig. 11 the necktie Ta of the four-in-hand type is shown provided with a longitudinal side seam at the back, the fabric having been folded on the bias, and providing the outer cover and lining of the same fabric by the'method of folding, all of which is well known in the art, the necktie Ta being devoid of a neck-encircling band portion. The parts in Fig. 11 corresponding to the parts in Fig. 1 bear the same reference numerals and letters with a prime mark added.
The collar button part of the clamp may be modified to facilitate the fastening of a detachable'collar to a shirt neckband and at the same time draw the collar to a tighter fit around the neck, and in Fig. 12 the internally threaded collar button 65 is provided with a cylindrical shank 66 the .outer end of which adjacent the head is provided with a cylindrical portion of smaller diameter in the form of a relatively narrow neck portion 61, the two shank portions merging at their outer surface on an annular spherically surfaced shoulder 68; this neck will facilitate passing the inner and outer overlapping locking tab ofa starched collar over the collar button head to the neck whence they can be forced on the larger part of the shank by the fingers or knob clamp, as desired, spreadingthe button holes and drawing the collar tighter around the neck.
'In the knob clamp construction shown in Fig. 13 and indicated by 69 the screw or bolt 10' is preferably of a corrosion resisting metal moulded with the clamp.
The clamp H shown in Fig. 14 is provided with.
a bolt of similar corrosion resisting metal whose head is countersunk ina recess 12 filled up with a setting and tightening material 13 such as plastic wood made under a good formula.
The fabric necktie Tb shown in Fig. 15 has the inner end of the outer depending portion 30a folded to'provide the fabric band loop 32a (shown inside out) whose edge 14 overlaps one of the side longitudinal edges of the outer depending portion and lies between the inner end of the innor depending portion 31a, the overlapping edges all being securely stitched together as'shown and the stitching securing the edge 15 of the-inner depending portion flatly to the band loop; in instances where the material of both depending portions is very thin an additional stitch or two as at--l4a may be provided stitching the lower margins of the band loop, particularly if the width of the material of the outer depending portion endproviding the band loop is relatively wide to produce a relatively long knot; the perforation in the outer depending portion and the perforation 36" are in alignment to provide the fastener receiving perforation 36a, all edges surrounding which are buttonhole stitched together as at 31a; this necktie upon being knotted, as shown in Fig. 16 will produce a slightly different knot 60a pre senting a further projecting mass of material as Bla on one side than the other and not unlike an ordinary four-in-hand tied by a right hand throw moderately tightly l v The four-in-hand fabric necktie Tc illustrated in Figs. 17, 18, and 19 has its outer and inner depending portions 301) and 3 lb secured at the edges of the perforations, in the inner ends of the outer and inner depending portions and forming the fastener-receiving perforation or hole 36a, by the buttonhole stitching 31a, and the relatively short inner depending portion has its outer end 16 secured to the rear fabric face of the outer depending portion by stitching, 11 which also stitches the folded edges of the outer end of the inner depending portion; at a distance from the a outer end of the outer depending portion which will be approximately opposite a shirt fly button,
for example the third button from the top ex- -cluding the collar button, and on the rear side of the depending portion there is provided a cooperable fastener 18 which is secured at its upper end to the outer depending portion by stitching l9 and which is in the form of a strip of tape 80 looped to provide the button hole 8| by which the shirt button locking the box plait may detachedly' fasten the necktie to the shirt front. In securing the outer end of the short inner depending portion to therear fabric face of the outer depending portion in manufacture care is taken to prevent the outer fabric face of the outer depending portion from being caught in or stitched by the stitching TI and this is avoided by holding the front and rear face parts apart while the short end is being stitched to the rear face; and, as will be observed in Fig. 17 the perforation in the outer depending portion will pref-' erably have its'central axis slightly disposed laterally of the longitudinal axis of the outer depending portion, the side depending upon whether the material is folded to left or right to provide the band loop32b which has the form of a substantially hollow frusto-conical loop fold formed by a tubular fold of the body of material on the inner end of thelong depending portion and projecting laterally or rearwardly of the rear face thereof in such a manner that the front face of the material of the necktie is disposed as the outer face of said body of material; the stitching 31a provides the means for fixedly securing the necktie folded in the band loop foldwhich fold in this instance, Fig. 17, will be observed to be more symmetrically disposed to the axis of the long depending portion than the fold shown in Fig. 15, with the result that the knot 6|! (see Fig. 19) will be slightly different presenting the opposite top sides thereof, 6 l and 62', more symmetrically disposed laterally to the collar button and the front of the collar.
The four-in-hand necktie, or the modifications thereof, shown herein may be positioned and fastened in any suitable manner convenient to the wearer, and in Fig. 20 there is illustrated a convenient and easy method of aflixing the necktie which in practice appears best: The sides 82 and 83, the latter usually the box plait side, of the fly front of the shirt are temporarily left unbuttoned and are spread apart by the thumb, not shown, which is inserted upwardly between the base of the collar button and the wearer's neck and which presses against the collar button forcing it and the neckband and collar locking tabs outwardly from the wearer's neck while at the same time the middle finger 84 and the forefinger 85, of the same hand, hold the parts spread as shown with the fastening perforation passed over the collar button head; with the necktie in this position the knob clamp i screwed on the collar button with the other hand, and after afilxment the parts are adjusted and drawn as desired; from experience it is believed preferable before positioning the necktie to first insert the ends of the tie in the hollow of the band vloop and provide the loop portions X and Y pushed to one'side. If desired, the necktie can be positioned by reversing the direction of the holding hand and passing the thumb over the top of the locking tabs, with the shirt buttoned up, and with the forefinger and middle finger spread apart and pointing downwardly.
In Fi 21 the spects is the same as the previously described necktie T, is provided with a transverse fabric member 86 of the same fabric and pattern as the remainder of the necktie, having laterally projecting portions in the form of- short tabs 81 and 88 which at their outer ends are provided with spaced buttonholes 89 and 90 cooperable with fastener buttons carried on the inner band of a turn down collar to retain the tabs in position between theouter fold and the inner band of turn down collar.
the necktie will be knotted in the manner described in connection with Figs. 1 and 5-10; the transverse strip is securely'stitched to the longitudinal portion by stiching 9| with the edges in the region of the stitching flattened against the rear face of the longitudinal portion, and, at opposite sides of the perforation as indicated the fabric of the transverse portion is narrowed by gathering stitching. The fabric of the transverse portion is folded on the bias with the renecktie T, which in other re- I The transverse member has h .a substantially central perforation aligned with 36b in alignment with the perforation 35" and sulting edges of the seam on the rear face turned 78 in, overlapped and stitched together and whereby the tabs are relatively thin in these regions so buttons to impress the outer fold of the collar the 35". and 36b aligned, the buttonholes will be located high relatively tov the axis of the tabs.
In Figure 22, the necktie Tc, is shown provided with a transverse member and projecting tab portions 87 and 88' similar to tabs 89 and 99 but with buttonholes 89' and 90' located high relatively to the axis of the tabs; the central fastener-receiving perforations being all in alignment to provide the fastener-receiving perforation 360, the edges being buttonhole stitched together as indicated at 31b. The stitching 9| is substantially the same as indicated at 9| in Fig. 21 while parts 30b, 3|b' and 32' are correspondingly similar to parts 30b, 9| b and 32b shown in Fig. 17. The tab portions serve to provide some padding between the inner band, and outer fold of a turn down collar; to provide in collars having wide front openings or roll outer folds as in some button down collar points the appearance of completeness=in the necktie; and serve together with cooperable fastener buttons on the inner band of a turn down collar to restrict the tendency of the knot to be rotated when the lat- .ter is not tightly clamped to the collar; and thereby assist in maintaining the tie properly positioned, and to cause the rear of the knot to tend to support, or support, depending upon the fit of the collar to the neck of the wearer, the overlapping locking portions of the inner band. As will be clear upon reference to Fig. 23 these tab portions are very pliable and easily folded transversely so that the necktie can be made up into a knot 60b in the manner as previously described and by folding the tabs 81' and 88' over the knob clamp and then drawing the depending portions downwarly over the folded tabs and producing a knot with the looped ends 81a and 88a serving to widen the material mass at the upper part of the knot and provide padding between the inner band and outer fold of the collar, and serving to keep the edges of the knot behind the outer fold of a collar whose front ends are coupled by, a safety pin or clip in the well known manner.
The collar attached shirt S shown in Fig. 24 is provided with a turn down collar Ca on the inner band 92 of which behind the outer fold F are fastening buttons 93 and 94 on opposite sides of the collar tab locking collar button and necktie fastener 4|, the side fastening buttons being united to the inner band of the collar by strong stitching 95, and cooperable with the buttonholes 89 and 90, or 89' and 90' in the necktie tabs; the side buttons on the collar are spaced apart a distance, relative to the distance between the button holes in the necktie tabs, which will exert little or no pull on the tabs in order to prevent localized pressures on the neck of the wearer opposite the fasteners which, as will be observed, are opposite the front and sensitive part of the neck of the wearer, pressures which have been found to result if the distance between the buttons is great enough to require much stretching of the tabs. As will be seen upon reference of Fig. 25 the knotting of the necktie gives to the tabs an upward and outward set.
To reduce the opportunity of the hard side butt'bnson the inner" 'and to impress the outer fold of the collar it has already been pointed out that that the projection of the side buttons is slight, and to further reduce the opportunity of the side tabs may be provided, with means to cover the buttons, for example as shown in Fig. 26 the tabs 88b are provided with fabric covers 96 opposite the button holes on their outer faces which are securely stitched at their upper ends as indicated at 91 and are liftable or foldable upwardly relatively to the tab ends as shown by the dotted line 98 i In some instances, as shown in Fig. 27, the inner band 92a of the collar may have the outer layer of its fabric stitched to the inner layer or layers as indicated by 99 to provide a pocket of tapered width as shown, the outer layer being slotted as indicated by 99a to receive and house removable combined stays and fasteners I00 on opposite sides of the collar front. On the projecting ends of the combined stays and fasteners perforations are provided to receive'the stitching securing the fastening button as will be observed in Fig. 28. The combined stays are arcuately curved longitudinally and are transversely fiat, all edges are rounded or otherwise blunt and the inner and narrower marginal ends are resilient and of smaller thickness in cross-section than the remaining portions; the resilience of the inner end portions which are relatively weak serving to adjust the curvature to small or large necks as the case may be.
The invention is susceptible to minor changes in details and proportions without departure from its scope and spirit, and since the filing of this application for patent takes place while the United States is at war and there are governmental restrictions, limitations and prohibitions on availability of certain'materials, it will be understood that the commercial presentation of the invention may not occur in a form of the desired quality as to material employed. 1
Having described the invention, what is claimed 1. A pliable, flexible, knottable and unknottable necktie of the four-in-hand type having a relatively short pliable band portion at the inner end of a relatively longer outer depending portion, a fastener-locating perforation formed in said necktie through the material of the inner end of said outer depending portion thereof and extending through the outer and inner faces of v said material, an inner depending portion in said necktie extending from said band portion thereof, a fastener locating perforation formed in said inner depending portion through the material of the inner end thereof adjacent said band portion of said necktie, a four-in-hand knot-forming portion provided in said necktie by said band portion thereof and said inner ends of said depending portions thereof, and said perforations of said necktie being in said knot-forming portion thereof and adapted for detachably receiving fastening means for removably aflixing the rear of said knot-forming portion of said necktie at the front of a collar with which said necktie is wearable.
2. A pliable, flexible, knottable and unknottable necktie of the four-in-hand type having a relatively long depending portion with inner and outer ends and a partially preformed four-inhand knot-forming portion including a relatively short permanent band loop fold-on the inner end of said relatively long depending portion, a necktie fastener-locating hole formed in said necktie through the material thereof in the rear portion of said knot-forming portion thereof, said depending portion of said necktie being receivable longitudinally movable therein in said band loop thereof in said rear portion of saidknot-forming portion thereof, a. necktie-fastener detachably refold and said band loop foldbeing liftable relaed for receiving fastening means for removably 'afiixing said rear portion of said knot-forming portion of said necktie at the front of a collar with which said necktie is wearable.
3. A pliable, flexible, knottable and unknottable necktie of the four-in-hand type including a relatively long body of material having front and rear faces, a relatively long depending portion in said necktie having inner and outer ends, a part-ially preformed four-in-hand knot-forming portion in said necktie provided by a relatively short band loop fold of substantially hollow frustoconical shape formed in said necktie on the inner end of said relatively long' depending portion by a tubular fold of said body of material projecting laterally of the rear face thereof whereby said front face of the material of said necktie is dis posed as the outer face of said band loop fold with the larger frusto-conical end thereof disposed adjacent to the rear face of said body of material, means fixedly securing the neckt e fold- I ed in said band loop fold, a necktie fastenerlocating hole formed in said necktiethrough the material thereof in the rear portion of said knotforming portion thereof, said outer depending portion of said necktie being receivable longitudinally movable therein in said band loop fold and said band loop fold being liftable relatively to said hole for positioning the said larger end of said band loop fold confrontingly opposite said hole, and said hole in said knot-forming portion of said necktie being adapted for receiving fastening means for removably afilxing said rear portion of said necktie at the front of a collar with which it is wearable.
4. In wearing apparel, the combination of a collar having oppositely disposed lockable end portions at the front thereof, a knottable and unknottable necktie of the four-in-hand type comprised of pliable, flexible material and having a relatively short, partially preformed knotforming portion on an end of a relatively long depending portion of said necktie, said knotforming portion having a rear portion adapted for positionin adjacently opposite said front of said collar and said knot-forming portion having a band loop fold for receiving said depending portion of said necktie longitudinally movable therein, means fixedly securing the necktie folded in said band loop fold, a. fastener-locating hole formed in said necktie through the material ceivable in said hole of said necktie, and cooperative clamping parts in said necktie-fastener havingvclamping faces relatively movable towards or away from each other for respectively clamp ing or unclamping said necktie to or from said front of said collar.
5. In wearing apparel, the combination of a collar having lockable end portions, collar buttonhead-passing buttonholes in said collar in said' a flanged head portionin said collar button re-' spectively on opposite ends of said shank portion thereof, a clamping face in said collar button on the side of said base portion adjacent said shank.
portion thereof, a relatively thick and long portion in said shank portion of said collar button spaced from said head portion thereof by a relatively thinner and shorter portion formed by a narrow annular groove of said shank portion dis-' posed adjacent said head portion, a detachable knob-like fastening member having a clampin face cooperati e with said clamping face in said= collar button, an inwardly extending recess in said fastening member in said clamping face thereof and relatively larger than the flanged head of said collar button for receiving said head of said collar button therein, and cooperative means in said combined collar and necktie fastener including centrally offset means in one. of
said members thereof for detachably mounting the clamping face of said fastening member may compress the material of said necktie adjacent said hole in said knot-forming portion thereof against a lockable end portion of said collar and whereby the spacing between the clamping faces of said members may be less than the length of said collar button for detachably drawing said collar button in the direction away from the wearer's neck and for causing at least one of said lockable end portions of said collar to be detachably held forced onto said relatively thick and long portion of said shank portion of the collar button.
JOHN T. SCULLY.
US456247A 1942-08-26 1942-08-26 Necktie Expired - Lifetime US2400604A (en)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2702904A (en) * 1950-05-22 1955-03-01 John T Scully Necktie
US3050737A (en) * 1960-03-23 1962-08-28 John T Scully Necktie holders
US3128470A (en) * 1962-02-12 1964-04-14 Ursula A Petermann Article of neckwear
US5600851A (en) * 1994-05-26 1997-02-11 Mcleod; James M. Necktie construction

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2702904A (en) * 1950-05-22 1955-03-01 John T Scully Necktie
US3050737A (en) * 1960-03-23 1962-08-28 John T Scully Necktie holders
US3128470A (en) * 1962-02-12 1964-04-14 Ursula A Petermann Article of neckwear
US5600851A (en) * 1994-05-26 1997-02-11 Mcleod; James M. Necktie construction

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