US2155178A - Treatment of hair - Google Patents

Description

Patented Apr. 18, 1939 UNITED STATES OF HAIR.

James 0. Brown, Mount Vernon,

to Ernest Frederica, No Drawing.

This invention relates to the art of permanent waving of hair. It is applicable not only to the curling of hair and imparting to it a desired wave .or shape, but also to the straightening of hair which is naturally curly or kinky.

The so-called permanent waving of growing human hair has heretofore been eifected by the use of. a relatively high degree of heat, i. e., a temperature above that which the skin or scalp is capable of withstanding without irritation for an appreciable period of time. The hair is wound on rods, moistened with a hair waving compound, such as ammonia or other alkalies. and heated to a temperature approaching 212 F. In such a process, some form of heating apparatus is required. After this heating, the hair is usually rinsed, combed into the desired shape, and dried. Such a process is called permanent waving because the hair will retain its wave for several months.

One object of this invention is to provide; for the permanent waving or straightening of hair without the necessity of heating the hair to high temperatures. V dL Another object of this invention is to prev! a process whereby the waving action of an agent applied to the hair is effectively stopped as soon as the desired waving or straightening effect has taken place. A

Other objects will be in part explained and will be apparent from the following description.

The chemical composition of hair is not known with any exactness, .but it is very complex and composed chiefly of proteins containing a large proportion of sulfur. During the ordinary process of permanent waving. some of the sulfur of 'thehairischemically removed. I The treated hair filaments will retain any form given to them at thetime the action of the waving agent is effectively stopped, after they have been'subjected to the action of these agents for a suitable period of time. One type of satisfactory hair waving agent is the class of soluble suliltes which react with the hair to take up one atom of sulfur and form thiosulfates. "Alkalinematerials similarly react with the hair'to take up sulfur and eventually form thiosulfates. The intermediate reaction products in the latter case are probably sulfides, sulfur dioxide and sulfltes. The following equations express the principle reactions Application December Serial No. 115,589

(CI. 13MB) N. Y assignor Bronxvllle, N. Y.

which are believed to take place during the waving of the hair with such materials.

(1) 38 (hair) +4NH4OH- 2(NH4) zS-l-SOr-i-ZHzO (2) 2NH4OH+SO2+ (N'Hi) aSOa+H2O (3) (NH4) 2SOa+S (hair) "(NI-I4) 2820:

It is thought that at least some of the sulfide formed in reaction (1) reacts with oxygen of the air and/or sulfur to form sulfltes which are eventually converted to sulfates or thlosulfates.

The hair waving action of a sulflte applied to the hair by removal of sulfur therefrom, takes place either at room temperature or at a lower or higher temperature, the speed of the action depending upon the temperature. Heat speeds up 20 the reaction and acts as a positive catalyst. A soluble sulflte, however, will soften hair suiiiciently to effect a permanent configuration at room temperatures, if allowed to remain in contact with the hair-for several hours. Alkalies similarly have some reaction at room temperatures but react much more slowly than sulfltes.' Apparently this slower action is due to the time required for forming ,intermediate products, to the presence of these products, and to various addition side reactions.

I have discovered that a permanent wave may be obtained without the use of any exter ally applied heat by applying a solution of a su lite, or a similar sulfur removing agent, to hair wound on curling rods or the like, and then effectively stopping the action of the sulfite while'the hair remains in its curled state and before it is allowed to assume a different configuration. This may advantageously be accomplished by rinsing the 40 hair in a dilute solution of some mild oxidizing agent, or other reagent, which will oxidize, or otherwise react with the suflte to convert it to a non-reactive material, before the hair has been afforded an opportunity to change its configuration. oxidizing agents are particularly suitable because they oxidize suliites to sulfates, the latter having substantially no chemical eflect on hair.

For example, if hair is treated by the application of a sulflte, and the action of the sulflte is m not effectively stopped before or very soon after the hair is unwound from the curling rods, the weight of the hair will serve to straighten out the curls because the sulfur removing action is still continuing, and the permanent eflect will be to leave the hair straight. By oxidizing the sulflte as soon as the hair is unwound, or before unwinding, the action of the sulflte is stopped and the hair remains permanently in the curled form. Subsequent washing and drying of the hair will not destroy the wave.

In time, the sulfur removing agent will be oxidized by the oxygen in the atmosphere, but this reaction is very slow and it is entirely impracticable to leave the hair wound upon curling rods for such a length of time as would be required to complete the oxidation of the remaining waving agent. My experiments have lead me to believe that one reason why the high temperature waving is usually effective, without a subsequent treatment with an oxidizing or similar stopping agent, is probably due to the fact that the active sulfite is very rapidly oxidized by atmospheric oxygen at the elevated temperature of the usual hot waving process, i. e. very much more rapidly than at room temperatures, or other lower temperatures. Thus, when the hair is rinsed and dried following a hot waving operation, substantially all of the active suliite has been oxidized to sulfate. In fact, most if not all of it is oxidized during the high temperature waving operation. A treatment of the hair with an oxidizing agent, subsequent to the high temperature waving treatment would, therefore, be

- of very little, if any value.

' When hair is treatedwith a sulflte at a lower temperature, such as room temperature, however, the rate of oxidation of sulflte by atmospheric oxygen is so slow that active sulfite remains in the hair after 48 hours or more, and the setting, or sulfur removing action of the sulflte on the hair continues during this time. This sulflte cannot readily be removed by rinsing or the like, since a large portion of it is firmly attached to, or embedded in the hair. Thus, following a low temperature treatment, a considerable amount of sulfite remains in the hair and continues its action for at least several days. If the hair is removed from the curlers, or allowed to assume a different configuration while the sulfur removing action is continuing, the last form it assumes will be the one permanently retained. Whether or not the foregoing is the correct explanation of what takes place, I have discovered that the treatment of hair with an agent which destroys the sulfur removing action of the sulfite,

- or similar waving agent, soon after the hair has been removed from the curlers following a low temperature treatment, is important to the success and permanence of the waving operation. It will be understood that the invention is not to be considered as limited by reference to the suggested theory of operation.

While I have referred particularly to the use of this process at room temperatures, it may be used to advantage at temperatures up to and including those which a person can stand without suffering pain, i. e. substantially up to a scalding temperature. The waving action is more rapid at the slightly elevated temperatures and yet at temperatures up to about 120 F., which is all that can be comfortably borne by the scalp, the oxidation of the suliite by means of the oxygen in the air is not sumciently rapid to insure adequate removal or conversion of the sulflte in this way during the treatment period. A subsequent treatment is therefore desirable, and in fact necessary to the production of a good permanent wave at temperatures of the character indicated. While it requires 3 to 6 hours for hair to be waved satisfactorily at room temperatures by a soluble sulflte, if the hair is heated to a temperature of 120 F. the time of reaction may be reduced to 30-40 minutes. i

This same principle may be applied to the straightening of curly or kinky hair. A sulfur removing agent may be applied to the hair in conjunction with some stiffening agent, such as a wax emulsioi i caselnsolution, or similar material, which iii-combed into the hair to maintain it substantially. straight. ,At the end of the reaction period, the setting action of the sulfur removing agent is effectively stopped by treatment with an oxidizing agent, or the like, and the stiffening agent may be removed, leaving the hair permanently straight.

To further illustrate my invention, specific examples thereof are described, although I do not wish to be limited thereto.

Hair to be permanently waved is wound upon rods in the desired configuration, and moistened with a 5% aqueous oluticn of ammonium sulflte. This moistening ma be effected by combing the solution into the hair prior to winding, by wrapping the wound hair in pads moistened with the sulflte solution or simply dipping the wound hair in the solution. The hair is left in this condition for from 3 to 6 hours or longer, after which it is unwound and rinsed in a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide. At the end of the reaction of the waving agent, about of the ammonium sulfite used will still be present in the hair. Just sufficient hydrogen peroxide should be employed to react chemically with the. residual active sulfite. In this way any appreciable bleaching effect of the peroxide will be avoided, Of course, if bleaching is desired, more peroxide may be employed. The hair may then be treated in any desired manner, either by rinsing, setting, washing, or the like. While a concentration of 5% of sulfite has been mentioned, any suitable concentration may be employed, preferably within the range of l-25%.

Such a process is well adapted for home use, igvolves no heating whatsoever and does not inve the discomfort or expense attending the use of intricate heating apparatus.

If it is desired to speed up the process, the hair may be wound and moistened, as described above, and heated by suitable means, such as a hair dryer or other heater, to a temperature around F. for 30-40 minutes, followed by a treatment with peroxide. Any other suitable oxidizing agent may be used in place of the peroxide.

To straighten curly hair, a binding agent or stiffening agent, such as an emulsion of wax, may be combed into the hair to hold it straight. A sulfur removingagent, such as ammonium suliite, is also combed into the hair together with the binding agent. After a suitable period, say 3-6 hours, of treatment with the sulfur removing agent, a solution of a suitable oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, should beapplied to the hair to stop the action of the sulflte.

Any soluble sulflte, either organic or inorganic, may be employed for the waving or straightening step in the process described above. For example, such materials as sodium, potassium or ammonium sulfltesor bisuliites, or organic reagents such as tetraethyl sulflte, aminosulfltes or ethylamine sulfltes may be employed.

I prefer, however. to use sodium or ammonium sulfltes because of their lower cost. Other agents which exert a waving action by removing sulfur from the hair may also be employed, although the suliltes are preferred because they have a more rapid action on the hair, without being dangerous. Any suitable oxidizing agent, or other reagent which converts the waving agent into a harmless substance, may also be used, although hydrogen peroxide is described because of its easy availability and mild action even if an excess should be employed. Other oxidizing or arresting agents which might be used are dilute solutions of potassium permanganate, sodium perborate, iodine, and the like.

The term "permanent used in the foregoing specification and in the claims, is employed in its usual sense in the art. The treatment effected is permanent in that it lasts for several months or until the treated hair is replaced by new hair, as distinguishing from wave setting which is effective for a period of only a few days or a week.

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms of description and not of limitation, and I have no intention. in the use of such terms and expressions, of excluding any equivalents of the features shown and described or portions thereof, but recognize that various modifications are possible within the scope of the invention claimed.

1 claim:

1. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprising treating the hair with a sulfur removing waving agent at a temperature below about 120 F. for a suflicient time to permanently set the hair, and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent.

2. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprising treating the hair with a soluble sulfite at a temperature which does not burn the skin while maintaining the hair in the desired configuration, and thereafter treating the hair with an oxidizing agent to oxidize the remaining sulfite.

3. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprising treating the hair with a soluble sulflte, at a temperature not higher than about 120 F., while maintaining the hair in the desired configuration, and thereafter treating the hair with a solution of hydrogen peroxide of sufficient strength to oxidize substantially all of the remaining active sulfite.

4. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configuration thereto comprising adlusting -the hair in the configuration desired, treating the hair while thus adjusted with a solution of a sulflte at a temperature which is not injurious to the scalp, and subsequently treating the hair with an oxidizing agent to oxidize any remaining sulilte before the hair is afforded an opportunity to change its configuration.

5. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configuration thereto comprising adjusting the hair in the configuration desired, treating the hair while thus adjusted with a solution of a sulflte at substantially normal room temperatures, and subsequently oxidizing any remaining sulflte before the hair is afforded an opportunity to change its configuration.

6. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configuration thereto comprising adjusting the hair in the configuration desired. treating the hair while thus adjusted with an aqueous solution containing about 5% of an alkali sulflte, and subsequently treating the hair with a solution containing a slight excess of hydrogen peroxide over the amount required to react with the remaining sulflte.

'1. In a method of permanent waving human hair, the steps of winding tufts of hair on mandrels, treating the hair while thus wound at substantially normal room temperatures with a waving agent comprising a water soluble sulilte for a sufficient period of time to permanently set the hair, removing the hair from the mandrels, and rinsing the hair in a dilute solution of an oxidizing agent.

8. In a method of straightening human hair. the steps of combing a stifiening agent into the hair to maintain it substantially straight, applying a solution of a sulflte to the stiffened hair, and subsequently oxidizing any residual active suliite.

9. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprising treating the hair with a sulfur removing agent at a temperature below that which would irritate the scalp for a sufficient time to permanently set the hair, and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent.

JAMES C. BROWN.

DISCLAIMER 2,l55,178.-James C. Brown, Mount Vernon,

Disclaimer filed March 6, 1942, by the assignee,

dated April 18, 1939. E. Frederica, Inc.

N. Y. TREATMENT or HAIR. Patent Hereby enters this disclaimer to claims 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 9, of said Letters Patent.

[Ofiict'al Gazette April 7, 1942.]

I prefer, however. to use sodium or ammonium sulfltes because of their lower cost. Other agents which exert a waving action by removing sulfur from the hair may also be employed, although the suliltes are preferred because they have a more rapid action on the hair, without being dangerous. Any suitable oxidizing agent, or other reagent which converts the waving agent into a harmless substance, may also be used, although hydrogen peroxide is described because of its easy availability and mild action even if an excess should be employed. Other oxidizing or arresting agents which might be used are dilute solutions of potassium permanganate, sodium perborate, iodine, and the like.

The term "permanent used in the foregoing specification and in the claims, is employed in its usual sense in the art. The treatment effected is permanent in that it lasts for several months or until the treated hair is replaced by new hair, as distinguishing from wave setting which is effective for a period of only a few days or a week.

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms of description and not of limitation, and I have no intention. in the use of such terms and expressions, of excluding any equivalents of the features shown and described or portions thereof, but recognize that various modifications are possible within the scope of the invention claimed.

1 claim:

1. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprising treating the hair with a sulfur removing waving agent at a temperature below about 120 F. for a suflicient time to permanently set the hair, and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent.

2. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprising treating the hair with a soluble sulfite at a temperature which does not burn the skin while maintaining the hair in the desired configuration, and thereafter treating the hair with an oxidizing agent to oxidize the remaining sulfite.

3. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprising treating the hair with a soluble sulflte, at a temperature not higher than about 120 F., while maintaining the hair in the desired configuration, and thereafter treating the hair with a solution of hydrogen peroxide of sufficient strength to oxidize substantially all of the remaining active sulfite.

4. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configuration thereto comprising adlusting -the hair in the configuration desired, treating the hair while thus adjusted with a solution of a sulflte at a temperature which is not injurious to the scalp, and subsequently treating the hair with an oxidizing agent to oxidize any remaining sulilte before the hair is afforded an opportunity to change its configuration.

5. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configuration thereto comprising adjusting the hair in the configuration desired, treating the hair while thus adjusted with a solution of a sulflte at substantially normal room temperatures, and subsequently oxidizing any remaining sulflte before the hair is afforded an opportunity to change its configuration.

6. A process of treating hair to impart a permanent configuration thereto comprising adjusting the hair in the configuration desired. treating the hair while thus adjusted with an aqueous solution containing about 5% of an alkali sulflte, and subsequently treating the hair with a solution containing a slight excess of hydrogen peroxide over the amount required to react with the remaining sulflte.

'1. In a method of permanent waving human hair, the steps of winding tufts of hair on mandrels, treating the hair while thus wound at substantially normal room temperatures with a waving agent comprising a water soluble sulilte for a sufficient period of time to permanently set the hair, removing the hair from the mandrels, and rinsing the hair in a dilute solution of an oxidizing agent.

8. In a method of straightening human hair. the steps of combing a stifiening agent into the hair to maintain it substantially straight, applying a solution of a sulflte to the stiffened hair, and subsequently oxidizing any residual active suliite.

9. A process of imparting a permanent configuration to hair comprising treating the hair with a sulfur removing agent at a temperature below that which would irritate the scalp for a sufficient time to permanently set the hair, and then treating the hair with an oxidizing agent.

JAMES C. BROWN.

DISCLAIMER 2,l55,178.-James C. Brown, Mount Vernon,

Disclaimer filed March 6, 1942, by the assignee,

dated April 18, 1939. E. Frederica, Inc.

N. Y. TREATMENT or HAIR. Patent Hereby enters this disclaimer to claims 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 9, of said Letters Patent.

[Ofiict'al Gazette April 7, 1942.]