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KR101421349B1 - Method to manufacture the woven fabrics for Hanbok to use and the woven fabrics for Hanbok is produced thereby - Google Patents

Method to manufacture the woven fabrics for Hanbok to use and the woven fabrics for Hanbok is produced thereby Download PDF

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KR101421349B1
KR101421349B1 KR1020120114829A KR20120114829A KR101421349B1 KR 101421349 B1 KR101421349 B1 KR 101421349B1 KR 1020120114829 A KR1020120114829 A KR 1020120114829A KR 20120114829 A KR20120114829 A KR 20120114829A KR 101421349 B1 KR101421349 B1 KR 101421349B1
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yarn
dyeing
hanbok
warp
gold
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KR1020120114829A
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Korean (ko)
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KR20140049172A (en
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최창명
남상범
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최창명
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/242Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads inorganic, e.g. basalt
    • D03D15/25Metal
    • D03D15/258Noble metal
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/593Stiff materials, e.g. cane or slat
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C3/00Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2101/00Inorganic fibres
    • D10B2101/20Metallic fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/062Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/063Load-responsive characteristics high strength
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2503/00Domestic or personal
    • D10B2503/06Bed linen

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

본 발명은 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서, 보다 상세하게는 투습성, 형태안정성이 우수하고, 세탁견뢰도가 우수한 폴리에스테르사를 경사 또는 위사, 혹은 경사 및 위사로 이용하여 한복지를 제조하는 방법 및 그 한복지에 관한 것으로, 단사섬도 50 ~ 100데니어, 장력 5 ~ 10N이 되도록 폴리에스테르사를 방적하여 방적사를 얻는 단계;와 상기 방적사를 염색액에 침지시켜 염색하는 선염단계;와 상기 선염 후, 건조된 방적사를 경사 또는 위사, 혹은 경사 및 위사로 하여 일정 직폭을 가지도록 제직하는 단계;와 상기 제직 후, 제직물의 일면에 금사, 은사 혹은 금은사를 직조하여 단위면적당 3 ~ 7개/inch2가 되도록 리프트 하는 단계;와 상기 리프트 후, 상기 제직된 직물지를 텐터기로 텐터처리하여 직폭 22 ~ 60inch의 직폭으로 정형하는 단계; 및 상기 정형된 직물에 전통 문양을 디자인하는 단계로 이루어지는 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법이 개시된다. More particularly, the present invention relates to a method of producing a hosiery cloth using a polyester yarn excellent in moisture permeability, shape stability, and high washing fastness by using warp or weft yarns or warp yarns or weft yarns A yarn dyeing step of dyeing the yarn by immersing the yarn in a dyeing solution, and a dyeing step of dyeing the dyeing yarn by dipping the yarn in a dyeing solution, A step of weaving the dried yarn so that the dried yarn has a warp or weft or warp and weft, and weaving the warp yarn with gold, silver or gold on one surface of the fabric, / inch < 2 >; and after the lift, the woven fabric is tentered by a tenter to form a rectangular width of 22 to 60 inches ; And designing a traditional pattern on the shaped fabric. A method of manufacturing a Korean traditional dress using polyester yarn is disclosed.

Description

폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법 및 그 한복지{Method to manufacture the woven fabrics for Hanbok to use and the woven fabrics for Hanbok is produced thereby}BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a hosiery cloth using polyester yarn and a method of manufacturing the hosiery cloth,

본 발명은 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서, 보다 상세하게는 투습성, 형태안정성이 우수하고, 세탁견뢰도가 우수한 폴리에스테르사를 경사 또는 위사, 혹은 경사 및 위사로 이용하여 한복지를 제조하는 방법 및 그 한복지에 관한 것이다.
More particularly, the present invention relates to a method of producing a hosiery cloth using a polyester yarn excellent in moisture permeability, shape stability, and high washing fastness by using warp or weft yarns or warp yarns or weft yarns And a method of making the same.

한복은 세계적으로 그 아름다움을 주목받고 있는 우리나라 고유의 전통의상으로 한복의 제작에 사용되는 섬유로는 실크, 모시, 합섬섬유 등이 많이 이용되고 있다. Hanbok is a traditional costume of Korea which is attracting attention for its beauty all over the world. Silk, linen, synthetic fiber and so on are widely used for the production of hanbok.

한복은 소재를 다양하게 사용해서 4계절 옷감을 달리해서 지어 입었다. 봄, 가을에는 국사, 갑사, 은조사, 항라 등으로 가을에는 자미사, 명주, 숙고사, 국사가 어울린다. 여름에는 모시, 삼베의 시원하고 절박한 멋을 즐겼으며 생명주로 짠, 노방, 항라 등으로 상큼한 아름다움도 드러냈다. 겨울에는 양단, 공단 등의 화려하고 우아한 옷감을 사용하였으며, 겉옷으로 손으로 짠 비단 등의 두루마기나 솜을 두어 곱게 누빈 누비옷을 입어 추위를 막았다. Hanbok was made using different materials and made from 4 different seasonal fabrics. In the spring and autumn, there are national history, athoras, silver tide, and japanese. In autumn, jasmine, silkworms, In the summer, she enjoyed the cool and immaculate style of ramie and hemp, and she also revealed her fresh beauty in the form of woven-in-life, In the winter, we used gorgeous and elegant cloths such as satin and satin, and we put a silk scarf and cotton which was woven by hand in outerwear, and put on a quilted quilted coat to prevent the cold.

그러나, 한복은 해결해야할 단점 또한 안고 있다. 한복의 소재는 그 고유의 형태를 유지해야 하기 때문에 깨끼와 같은 딱딱한 성질을 나타내는 직물이 대부분이어서 장시간 착용에 의해서 구김, 주름발생이 많고 특히 한복지에 많이 사용되는 실크와 모시는 섬유 고유의 특성으로 인하여 구김과 주름이 특히 많이 발생하고, 리점이 한복의 형태와 함께 일상생활에서 가장 불편을 주는 요소이고 이로 인하여 몇몇 특별한 행사를 제외하고는 한복이 점점 생활속 패션으로서의 지위는 약화되고 있다. However, Hanbok has a disadvantage to solve. Since the material of Hanbok must maintain its original shape, most of the fabrics show a rigid nature such as an abdomen, so that they are wrinkled and wrinkled by wearing for a long time. Especially, because of the characteristics inherent in silk and fiber used in Hanbok, And wrinkles are especially common, and Lee point is the most discomfort factor in everyday life together with the form of Hanbok. Therefore, except for some special occasions, Hanbok gradually becomes weaker as a living fashion.

이러한 문제점을 해결하기 위해서는 생활 한복의 형태나 소재를 변형시켜 문제점을 개선하는 방법들이 연구되어 왔다. 그러나 생활한복은 실용성은 향상된 반면 한복의 곡선미 또는 외관이 투박한 느낌을 주어 오히려 소재의 개선에 주력하고 있다. In order to solve these problems, methods for improving the problem by modifying the form or material of living Hanbok have been studied. However, the practicality of living Hanbok has improved, but the curvaceous appearance of Hanbok or the appearance of the Hanbok has a rugged feeling, and it focuses on improving the material.

한복의 소재로 많이 활용되고 있는 실크는 우아한 광택과 우수한 드레이프성으로 고급한복에 많이 사용되고 있고, 여름에는 시원하고 겨울에는 따뜻하고 통기성이 좋지만, 수분에 의한 수축현상으로 형태안정성이 부족하고, 쉽게 구김이 발생하는 등 실용성을 저해하는 요소가 많고, 모시도 많이 사용되는 소재이고 수분에 대한 안정성은 좋지만 구김회복성이 나쁘고 이를 섬유화하여 방적을 하는데도 많은 문제점을 가지고 있다. 또한, 경제성에서도 생산단가가 매우 높은게 현실이다. Silk which is widely used as a material of Hanbok has elegant luster and excellent drape and is widely used in high quality Hanbok. It is cool in summer, warm in winter and good in ventilation, but lacks morphological stability due to moisture contraction, There are a lot of factors which hind the practicality such as occurrence, and it is a material which is often used, and the stability against moisture is good, but the wrinkle recovering property is bad, and there are many problems in spinning and spinning. In addition, it is a reality that the production cost is very high even in economical efficiency.

이러한 문제점들을 개선하고자 최근에는 합성섬유를 이용한 한복지의 개발이 이루어지고 있으며, 한국 공개특허공보 10-2008-85545호(2008.09. 24. 공개)에는 레이온사와 나일론사로 구비되는 폴리에스테르분사를 합사한 실을 경사 및 위사로 사용한 한복원단 제직방법이 개시되어 있다. 그러나, 나일론은 그 특성상 열에 취약하여 염색공정시 특별한 주의가 필요하며, 나일론사로 이루어진 한복지를 이용하여 제작된 한복은 온수세탁이 어렵고, 다림질 후에 열에의한 수축현상으로 한복이 줄어드는 현상 등이 발생하는 문제점을 안고 있다. In order to solve these problems, the development of Korean paper using synthetic fibers has been recently made, and in Korean Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 10-2008-85545 (published on September 24, 2008), a yarn in which polyester yarn provided with rayon yarn and nylon yarn Is used as warp and weft yarns. However, nylon is vulnerable to heat, so special care is required in the dyeing process. The hanbok made of nylon yarn is difficult to wash in hot water, and the hanbok shrinks due to heat shrinkage after ironing. I have a problem.

따라서, 열에 강하고, 수분에 대한 안정성을 확보하면서 구김회복성이 우수하며, 염색공정시 형태안정성이 우수한 소재를 사용하여 제직후 한복지의 실용성을 향상시킬 수 있는 한복지의 개발이 필요하다.
Therefore, it is necessary to develop Hanbok paper which can improve practicality of Hanbok paper immediately after using the material which is resistant to heat, excellent in moisture stability, excellent in wrinkle recovering property and excellent in shape stability in dyeing process.

본 발명은 상기와 같은 종래의 문제점을 해결하기 위해 안출된 것으로서, 투습성, 형태안정성이 우수하고, 세탁견뢰도가 우수한 폴리에스테르사를 이용하여 강도, 신도(탄성도), 방추성, 내수축성이 우수하며, 구김방지 및 물세탁이 가능한 세탁견뢰도가 우수한 한복지로서, 전통 한복뿐만, 이불 또는 가방 등을 제조하는데 사용 가능한 한복지의 제조 방법 및 그 제조방법에 의해 제조된 한복지를 제공하는 것을 그 해결과제로 한다.
Disclosure of Invention Technical Problem [8] Accordingly, the present invention has been made keeping in mind the above problems occurring in the prior art, and an object of the present invention is to provide a polyester yarn excellent in moisture permeability and shape stability, The present invention relates to a method for producing Korean traditional hanbok which can be used for manufacturing traditional Korean hanbok, quilt or bag and the like, which is excellent in washing fastness capable of preventing creasing and washing with water, .

상기한 과제를 해결한 본 발명의 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법은 단사섬도 50 ~ 100데니어, 장력 5 ~ 10N이 되도록 폴리에스테르사를 방적하여 방적사를 얻는 단계;A method of producing a Korean traditional woven fabric using polyester yarn of the present invention, which solves the above problems, comprises the steps of spinning a polyester yarn so that the single yarn fineness is 50 to 100 denier and the tension is 5 to 10 N,

상기 방적사를 염색액에 침지시켜 염색하는 선염단계;A dyeing step of dying the dyeing dye in the dyeing solution;

상기 선염 후, 건조된 방적사를 경사 또는 위사, 혹은 경사 및 위사로 하여 일정 직폭을 가지도록 제직하는 단계;Weaving the dried yarn so as to have a predetermined width by using warp or weft yarns or warp yarns and weft yarns after the yarn dyeing;

상기 제직 후, 제직물의 일면에 금사, 은사 혹은 금은사를 직조하여 단위면적당 3 ~ 7개/inch2가 되도록 리프트 하는 단계; After the weaving, weaving woven fabric of gold, silver or gold on one surface of the woven fabric and lifting it so that it is 3 to 7 pieces / inch2 per unit area;

상기 리프트 후, 상기 제직된 직물지를 텐터기로 텐터처리하여 직폭 22 ~ 60inch의 직폭으로 정형하는 단계; 및After the lift, tentering the woven fabric with a tenter to form a width of 22 to 60 inches in width; And

상기 정형된 직물에 전통 문양을 디자인하는 단계로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 한다. And designing a traditional pattern on the formed fabric.

여기서, 상기 방적사는 번수 11,000 ~ 22,000, 연도 500 ~ 1,300TM인 것을 특징으로 한다. Here, the yarns are characterized by having a number of yarns of 11,000 to 22,000 and a yarn length of 500 to 1,300.

여기서, 상기 리프트 하는 단계에서 사용된 금은사는 금사와 은사가 꼬임수 55~110TM이 되도록 연사된 것을 특징으로 한다. Here, the gold and silver used in the lifting step are twisted so that the number of twists is 55 to 110TM.

여기서, 상기 한복지의 밀도는 100 ~ 250올, 수축율 3% 이하인 것을 특징으로 한다. Here, the density of the above-mentioned cloth is 100 to 250, and the shrinkage rate is 3% or less.

본 발명에서는 상기 개시된 제조방법 중 어느 하나의 제조방법에 의해 제조되며, 밀도 100 ~ 250올, 수축율 3%이하, 세탁견뢰도 4급 이상인 것을 특징으로 하는 한복지를 제공한다.
According to the present invention, there is provided a Hanbok paper which is produced by any one of the above-mentioned production methods and has a density of 100 to 250, a shrinkage of 3% or less, and a wash fastness of 4 or more.

본 발명에 의해 제공되는 한복지의 제조방법에 의해 제조된 한복지는 폴리에스테르사의 특성으로 열에 강하고, 실크와 같은 광택성을 가지고 있으며, 세탁견뢰도가 우수할 뿐만 아니라, 다림질 후 직물의 수축이 일어나지 않고, 또한, 그김저항이 우수한 한복지를 제공할 수 있다. The fabric of the present invention produced by the method of the present invention is excellent in heat resistance, heat resistance, silk gloss, washing fastness, shrinkage of the fabric after ironing, In addition, it is possible to provide a Korean traditional lacquer which has excellent pulling resistance.

또한, 본 발명에 따라 제공되는 한복지는 전통의상인 한복뿐만 아니라, 이불 또는 가방 등의 제작시에도 사용가능하다.
Also, the present invention can be applied not only to a traditional costume, but also to a quilt or a bag.

도 1은 본 발명의 한복지 제조방법의 일예를 도시한 블럭도이다.
도 2는 본 발명의 한복지 제조방법의 일예를 도시한 공정도이다.
도 3은 본 발명의 제조방법에 의해 제조된 한복지의 일예를 도시한 사진이다.
FIG. 1 is a block diagram showing an example of a method for manufacturing a Korean traditional dress paper according to the present invention.
2 is a process diagram showing an example of the method for manufacturing the Korean traditional dress paper of the present invention.
3 is a photograph showing an example of a Korean traditional dress made by the manufacturing method of the present invention.

이하, 본 발명을 첨부된 도면을 참조하여 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

이하의 설명으로 상술한 목적, 특징 및 장점은 보다 분명해질 것이며, 그에 따라 본 발명이 속하는 기술분야에서 통상의 지식을 가진 자가 본 발명의 기술적 사상을 용이하게 실시할 수 있을 것이다. 또한, 본 발명을 설명함에 있어서 본 발명과 관련된 공지 기술에 대한 구체적인 설명이 본 발명의 요지를 불필요하게 흐릴 수 있다고 판단되는 경우에 그 상세한 설명을 생략하기로 한다. The above-described objects, features and advantages will become more apparent in light of the following description, and those skilled in the art will readily devise the technical idea of the present invention. In the following description, well-known functions or constructions are not described in detail since they would obscure the invention in unnecessary detail.

본 발명에 따르면, 한복지의 제조는 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법은 단사섬도 50 ~ 100데니어, 장력 5 ~ 10N이 되도록 폴리에스테르사를 방적하여 방적사를 얻는 단계(S100);와 상기 방적사를 염색액에 침지시켜 염색하는 선염단계(S110);와 상기 선염 후, 건조된 방적사를 경사 또는 위사, 혹은 경사 및 위사로 하여 일정 직폭을 가지도록 제직하는 단계(S120);와 상기 제직 후, 제직물의 일면에 금사, 은사 혹은 금은사를 직조하여 단위면적당 3 ~ 7개/inch2가 되도록 리프트 하는 단계(S130); 와 상기 리프트 후, 상기 제직된 직물지를 텐터기로 텐터처리하여 직폭 22 ~ 60inch의 직폭으로 정형하는 단계(S140); 및 상기 정형된 직물에 전통 문양을 디자인하는 단계(S150)로 이루어진다. According to the present invention, the method for producing Hanbok paper comprises the steps of (S100) obtaining a yarn by spinning polyester yarn so that the single yarn fineness is 50 to 100 denier and the tension is 5 to 10 N, (S110) of dyeing the yarn by dipping in a dyeing solution (S110); and S160 (S120) weaving the dried yarn after warping to have a certain width by using warp or weft or warp and weft (S130) of weaving gold, silver or gold silver on one side of the fabric and lifting it to 3 to 7 pieces / inch2 per unit area; And a step (S140) of tentering the weaving fabric with a tenter to form a width of 22 to 60 inches in width after the lift, And designing a traditional pattern on the formed fabric (S150).

상기 디자인하는 단계 후에 광택도를 향상시키기 위한 후공정을 더 실시할 수 있다. After the designing step, further post-processing for improving the glossiness may be performed.

이하에서는 상기 금사, 은사 또는 금은사는 금속사라 칭하여 설명한다.Hereinafter, the gold, silver, or gold silver is referred to as metal.

상술하는 제조 단계를 첨부도면 도 2를 참조하여 보다 상세히 설명하면, 통상의 방적기(100)에서 폴리에스테르사를 방적하여 폴리에스테르 방적사(110)를 제조한다. 이때, 방적된 방적사는 단사섬도 50 ~ 100데니어, 장력 5 ~ 10N을 가지며, 번수 11,000 ~ 22,000, 연도 500 ~ 1,300TM이 되도록 방적된다. 2, a polyester yarn 110 is produced by spinning polyester yarn in a conventional spinning machine 100. The polyester yarn 110 is produced by spinning a polyester yarn in a conventional spinning machine 100. [ At this time, the spun yarn is spun to have a single yarn fineness of 50 to 100 denier, a tension of 5 to 10 N, a yarn count of 11,000 to 22,000, and a yarn count of 500 to 1,300TM.

상기 방적사(110)는 가이드롤러(120)에 의해 가이드 되어 염색액(140)이 채워진 염색조(130)로 이송되어 선염된다. 이때, 염색조건은 통상의 폴리에스테르사의 염색방법을 적용한다. 이때, 사용되는 염색액은 그 컬러수는 생산조건에 따라 적의 선택하여 적용한다.The yarn yarn 110 is guided by a guide roller 120 to be transferred to a dyeing tank 130 filled with a dyeing solution 140 to be dyed. At this time, a usual polyester dyeing method is applied for dyeing conditions. At this time, the color number of the dyeing solution to be used is selected according to the production conditions.

상기 염색된 방적사는 건조장치(160)로 유도되어 건조시키고, 상기 건조된 방적사(110)는 가이드장치(170, 180)에 의해 가이드되어 제직기(300)로 유도된다. 이때, 상기 방적사는 경사로 공급되며, 통상사용되는 합성섬유사 혹은 천연섬유사를 위사(220)로 동시에 제직기(300)에 공급한다. The dyed yarn is guided to a drying device 160 and dried. The dried yarn 110 is guided by guide devices 170 and 180 and is guided to the knitting machine 300. At this time, the spun yarn is supplied as a warp, and synthetic yarn or natural yarn, which is usually used, is fed to the knitting machine 300 at the same time with a weft yarn 220.

상기 제직기(300)에서 제직된 직물(320)은 유도롤러(310)를 통해 리프팅장치(400)로 이송되고, 이때 금속사(440)를 동시에 공급하여 직조한다. The fabric 320 woven in the weaving machine 300 is conveyed to the lifting device 400 through the guide roller 310 and simultaneously weaves the metal yarn 440 by weaving.

상기 금속사(440)가 직조된 직물지는 텐터기(430)에서 텐터처리하여 일정 직폭을 가지도록 정형하고, 정형된 직물지에 전통문양을 디자인한 다음 권취기(500)로 권취시켜 본 발명에서 목적하는 한복지를 완성하게 된다.The textile fabric woven with the metal yarn 440 is tentered in the tenter machine 430 to have a predetermined width and is designed to have a traditional pattern on a fabric of a predetermined shape and then wound into a winding machine 500, To complete the Hanbok paper.

상기 한복지의 예로 첨부도면 도 3에 도시된 사진과 같은 한복지를 얻을 수 있게 되는 것이다.As shown in FIG. 3, the clothes can be obtained as an example of the clothes.

본 발명에 따르면, 상기 리프트 하는 단계에서 사용된 금사 또는 은사는 꼬임이 없는 평사를 사용하며, 바람직하게는 꼬임수가(T/M) 20 ~ 50인 것을 사용하는 것이 좋다. T/M수가 20 이하가 되면 최종 한복지의 구김저항이 3급 이하가 되고, T/M수가 50 이상일 경우에는 과다한 꼬임수로 인해 구김저항이 3급 이하가 된다.According to the present invention, the gold or silver yarn used in the lifting step may be a plain yarn without twist, and preferably has a twist number (T / M) of 20 to 50. When the number of T / M is less than 20, the resistance of the final clothes becomes less than grade 3, and when the number of T / M is more than 50, the resistance of the wire becomes less than grade 3 due to excessive twisting.

상기 금은사는 금사와 은사로 구성되며 그 꼬임수는 55~110TM이 되도록 연사된 것을 사용한다. 바람직하게는 금사와 은사의 혼용율은 금사:은사=8:2 ~ 2:8의 구성비를 가지도록 혼용하여 트위스팅된 것을 사용하는 것이 가장 좋다.The above-mentioned gold silver is composed of gold and silver, and the twisted yarn is twisted so that the twist number is 55 to 110. Preferably, the mixed ratio of gold and silver is best mixed with twisted so as to have a composition ratio of gold: silver = 8: 2 to 2: 8.

본 발명의 상술된 제조방법에 따라 제조되는 한복지는 그 밀도는 100 ~ 250올, 수축율 3% 이하가 되도록 제직되는 것이 바람직하다. The fabric of the present invention manufactured according to the above-described manufacturing method of the present invention is preferably weaved so that the density is 100 to 250, and the contraction ratio is 3% or less.

상술되는 본 발명에서는 상기 개시된 제조방법 중 어느 하나의 제조방법에 의해 제조되며, 밀도 100 ~ 250올, 수축율 3%이하, 세탁견뢰도 4급 이상인 것을 특징으로 하는 한복지를 제공한다. According to the present invention, there is provided a Korean traditional dress paper which is manufactured by any one of the above-described manufacturing methods and has a density of 100 to 250, a shrinkage of 3% or less, and a wash fastness of 4 or more.

이하, 본 발명을 바람직한 실시예를 들어 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다. 단, 하기의 실시예로 본 발명이 한정되는 것은 아니다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to preferred embodiments. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

[실시예 1 ~ 6][Examples 1 to 6]

하기의 표 1의 조건을 만족하는 한복지를 직폭 22inch, 44inch, 60inch의 직폭을 가지도록 제조하였다. 상기 제조된 각각의 한복지를 밀도, 세탁견뢰도, 수축율을 측정하였으며, 그 결과는 표 2에 나타내었다. 이때, 사용된 폴리에스테르사의 장력은 5 ~ 10N의 범주에 속하였다. 하기 표 2의 물성평가는 통상적으로 알려진 실크로 제직된 한복지의 물성을 기준으로 하였다. 실크로 제직된 한복지의 밀도는100~250, 열수축율은 3% 이하, 세탁견뢰도는 4급~5급, 구김저항은 4급~5급이다.The fabric having a width of 22 inches, 44 inches, and 60 inches was prepared so as to satisfy the conditions shown in Table 1 below. The density, washfastness and shrinkage of each fabric prepared above were measured and the results are shown in Table 2. At that time, the tensile strength of the polyester yarn used was in the range of 5 ~ 10N. The evaluation of physical properties in the following Table 2 was based on the physical properties of commonly known Korean wool fabrics woven with silk. The density of Hanbok paper woven in silk is 100 ~ 250, the heat shrinkage is less than 3%, the washing fastness is 4 ~ 5 grade, and the wrinkle resistance is 4 ~ 5 grade.

<표 1><Table 1>

Figure 112012083993289-pat00001
Figure 112012083993289-pat00001

<표 2><Table 2>

Figure 112012083993289-pat00002
Figure 112012083993289-pat00002

여기서, 상기 밀도는 1 inch당 올수가 차지하는 개수를 측정하여 그 결과값을 나타낸 것이며, 상기 열수축율은 끓는물 100에서 측정하였으며, 상기 세탁견뢰도는 드라이클리닝 방식을 적용한 방법으로 측정하였다.The density was measured by counting the number of ounces per inch. The heat shrinkage was measured in boiling water 100 and the wash fastness was measured by a dry cleaning method.

또한, 상기 실시예들의 한복지 구김저항의 측정방법은 구김을 측정하는 설비를 통해서 측정하였으며, 그 결과 실시예 1의 각 직폭의 구김저항은 4급, 5급, 4급이었으며, 실시예 2의 각 직폭의 구김저항은 4급, 5급, 4급이었으며, 실시예 3의 각 직폭의 구김저항은 4급, 5급, 4급이었으며, 실시예 4의 각 직폭의 구김저항은 4급, 5급, 5급이었으며, 실시예 5의 각 직폭의 구김저항은 4급, 5급, 5급이었으며,실시예 6의 각 직폭의 구김저항은 5급, 5급, 5급이었다.
As a result, the wrinkle resistance of each of the widths of Example 1 was 4, 5, and 4, and that of Example 2 was measured. The wrinkle resistance of each of the widths was 4th, 5th, and 4th grades. In Example 3, the wrinkle resistances of the respective widths were 4th, 5th, and 4th grades. 5, and 5, respectively. In Example 5, the wrinkle resistances of the respective widths were 4, 5, and 5, and the wrinkle resistance of each of the widths of Example 6 was 5, 5, and 5.

이상의 결과로 볼때, 본 발명의 제조방법에 따라 제공되는 한복지는 세탁후 수축율이 3%이하이고, 세탁견뢰도가 4~5급 이상으로 실크로 제직된 한복지 대비 동등 이상의 우수한 형태안정성을 나타내었고, 구김저항은 실크보다 우수하였다. From the above results, it was found that the fabric of the present invention provided excellent shrinkage ratio of less than 3% after washing and superior in form stability to that of Hanbok, which was woven in silk with a washing fastness of 4 to 5 or more, Wrinkle resistance was superior to silk.

또한, 본 발명에 따른 한복지는 구김발생 후 손으로 문지르는 간단한 조작에도 구김이 거의 없어지는 우수한 구김회복성도 확인되었다.
In addition, it was confirmed that the Korean traditional dress according to the present invention has excellent wrinkle recovering property, which is almost free of wrinkling even in simple operation of hand rubbing after wrinkling.

100: 방적기 110: 방적사
120, 150, 210: 가이드롤러 130: 염색조
140: 염색액 160: 건조장치
170, 180: 가이드장치 200: 위사
300: 제직기 310: 유도롤러
320: 직물 400: 리프트장치
410, 420: 가이드롤러 430: 텐터기
440: 금속사 500: 권취기
100: spinning machine 110: yarn spinning machine
120, 150, 210: guide roller 130: dyeing tank
140: Dye solution 160: Drying device
170, 180: Guide device 200: Weft
300: Disintegrator 310: Guide roller
320: fabric 400: lift device
410, 420: guide roller 430: tenter
440: Metal yarn 500: Winder

Claims (5)

단사섬도 50 ~ 100데니어, 장력 5 ~ 10N이 되도록 폴리에스테르사를 방적하여 방적사를 얻는 단계;
상기 방적사를 염색액에 침지시켜 염색하는 선염단계;
상기 선염 후, 건조된 방적사를 경사 또는 위사, 혹은 경사 및 위사로 하여 일정 직폭을 가지도록 제직하는 단계;
상기 제직 후, 제직물의 일면에 금사, 은사 혹은 금은사를 직조하여 단위면적당 3 ~ 7개/inch2가 되도록 리프트 하는 단계;
상기 리프트 후, 상기 제직된 직물지를 텐터기로 텐터처리하여 직폭 22 ~ 60inch의 직폭으로 정형하는 단계; 및
상기 정형된 직물에 전통 문양을 디자인하는 단계로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법.
Obtaining a yarn by spinning a polyester yarn so that the single yarn fineness is 50 to 100 denier and the tension is 5 to 10 N;
A dyeing step of dying the dyeing dye in the dyeing solution;
Weaving the dried yarn so as to have a predetermined width by using warp or weft yarns or warp yarns and weft yarns after the yarn dyeing;
After the weaving, weaving woven fabric of gold, silver or gold on one surface of the woven fabric and lifting it so that it is 3 to 7 pieces / inch2 per unit area;
After the lift, tentering the woven fabric with a tenter to form a width of 22 to 60 inches in width; And
And designing a traditional pattern on the formed fabric. &Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 &gt; 8. &lt; / RTI &gt;
제 1 항에 있어서,
상기 방적사는 번수 11,000 ~ 22,000, 연도 500 ~ 1,300TM인 것을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the yarns have a number of yarns of 11,000 to 22,000 and a yarn number of 500 to 1,300TM.
제 1 항에 있어서,
상기 리프트 하는 단계에서 사용된 금은사는 금사와 은사가 꼬임수 55~110TM이 되도록 연사된 것을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the gold yarn and the silver yarn used in the step of lifting are twisted so as to have a twist number of 55 to 110TM.
제 1 항에 있어서,
상기 한복지의 밀도는 100 ~ 250올, 수축율 3% 이하인 것을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르사를 이용한 한복지의 제조방법.
The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the density of the cloth is 100 to 250, and the shrinkage is 3% or less.
청구항 제1항 내지 제4항 중 어느 한 항 기재의 제조방법에 의해 제조되며, 밀도 100 ~ 250올, 수축율 3%이하, 세탁견뢰도 4급 이상인 것을 특징으로 하는 한복지.
A Hanbok paper produced by the method of any one of claims 1 to 4 and having a density of 100 to 250, a shrinkage of 3% or less, and a wash fastness of 4 or more.
KR1020120114829A 2012-10-16 2012-10-16 Method to manufacture the woven fabrics for Hanbok to use and the woven fabrics for Hanbok is produced thereby KR101421349B1 (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101701410B1 (en) * 2015-12-29 2017-02-03 방찬현 Fabric for Korean dress
KR101974951B1 (en) 2018-03-15 2019-05-03 박영한 Waterproof and contamination prevention complex
KR20200085468A (en) 2019-01-07 2020-07-15 김종겸 Hanbok fabric made using silk fabric, and manufacturing method thereof

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KR100791835B1 (en) 2006-08-07 2008-01-07 안철성 Fabric for korean dress
KR100828158B1 (en) 2006-11-08 2008-05-08 장순오 A patterned fabric and method for relief the pattern
KR101103681B1 (en) 2010-02-12 2012-01-11 주식회사영인실업 Polyester textiles with natural ingredient texture and its manufacturing method
KR101146685B1 (en) 2009-08-25 2012-05-22 한국실크연구원 Method for fabricating washable silk/ramie hanbok

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KR100791835B1 (en) 2006-08-07 2008-01-07 안철성 Fabric for korean dress
KR100828158B1 (en) 2006-11-08 2008-05-08 장순오 A patterned fabric and method for relief the pattern
KR101146685B1 (en) 2009-08-25 2012-05-22 한국실크연구원 Method for fabricating washable silk/ramie hanbok
KR101103681B1 (en) 2010-02-12 2012-01-11 주식회사영인실업 Polyester textiles with natural ingredient texture and its manufacturing method

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101701410B1 (en) * 2015-12-29 2017-02-03 방찬현 Fabric for Korean dress
KR101974951B1 (en) 2018-03-15 2019-05-03 박영한 Waterproof and contamination prevention complex
KR20200085468A (en) 2019-01-07 2020-07-15 김종겸 Hanbok fabric made using silk fabric, and manufacturing method thereof

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