JP2007138345A - Method for producing fabric having uneven pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To improve an excellent uneven feeling, removal properties of a shrunk yarn after shrinking and appearance quality of sewing trace after the removal, in the method for producing a fabric having an uneven pattern, with which a thermally shrinkable yarn is sewed to the fabric to form a pattern, is heated and shrunk, an uneven pattern is formed on the fabric and the shrunk yarn is removed. <P>SOLUTION: The method for producing a fabric having an uneven pattern comprises using a thermally shrinkable yarn having ≥30% shrinkage percentage in boiling water, selecting the weight of a fabric and the fineness of a thermally shrinkable yarn so that a relation between the weight (A)(g/m<SP>2</SP>) of the fabric and the fineness (B) (dtex) of the thermally shrinkable yarn satisfy the range of 0.24≤A/B≤0.55, sewing the thermally shrinkable yarn to the fabric or clothing by single chain stitches and after shrinking, removing the shrunk yarn. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  In the present invention, a heat-shrinkable yarn having the property of being shrunk when heated is used for patterning and sewing on the fabric, the heat-shrinkable yarn is shrunk to give the fabric an uneven pattern, and then the heat-shrinkable yarn is removed. It is related with the manufacturing method of the fabric which has the uneven | corrugated pattern which becomes.

  With the diversification of fashion preferences, fabrics and clothes with a sense of unevenness and three-dimensional patterns have come to be preferred. For this reason, various attempts have been made to apply a concavo-convex pattern to a fabric using a heat-shrinkable fiber having a property of being shrunk when heated. For example, JP-A-4-327259 discloses a heat-shrinkable yarn, for example, Fabrics are embroidered on woven fabrics or knitted fabrics as embroidery yarns using boiling water or heat-shrinkable yarns having a shrinkage rate of at least 10% by dry heat at 100 ° C, and subjected to wet heat treatment or dry heat treatment at 90 to 140 ° C. Describes a method for producing a three-dimensional pattern fabric that imparts a three-dimensional pattern. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 52-140689 discloses that heat shrink yarns are woven in an appropriate manner at the time of weaving a kijyaku fabric and heated after weaving to shrink the heat shrink yarns to form uneven pleats. Then, a method for producing a change-drawn pattern fabric is disclosed in which the heat-shrinkable yarn is removed by subsequent dyeing.

  However, in the case of Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-327259, although a three-dimensional pattern can be formed to some extent, it is difficult to remove from the fabric because the shrink yarn is sewn into the fabric as an embroidery thread. For this reason, it was not possible to meet the demand for a natural appearance with only a concave and convex pattern with no embroidery thread visible on the surface. Furthermore, since the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 52-140689 incorporates heat shrink yarns in a spelling manner during weaving, the spelling makes it easy to pull out after shrinkage and has only a three-dimensional pattern. Appearance can be obtained. However, since weaving at the time of weaving, various patterns such as embroidery are difficult, and since it is a woven fabric, the distance between the fibers is so close that the removability of the thread is not sufficient, and the broken thread is removed. There was a drawback of poor workability. Further, when the thread was pulled out, the resistance was strong and the marks of the sewing thread were damaged or spread, so that a product with good appearance quality was not obtained.

  Furthermore, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-171865 proposes that a cloth is sandwiched between a pair of concavo-convex dies having a pattern and embossed at a high temperature and high pressure. Even with this method, a fabric with a certain degree of unevenness and a surface on which the embroidery thread cannot be seen can be obtained, but a mold corresponding to various patterns is required, and the texture becomes hard due to high temperature and pressure. There was a problem that the fabric was torn or easily discolored.

JP-A-4-327259 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 52-140689 JP 2003-171865 A

  The present invention has been made to solve the above-described problems of the background art, and after heat-shrinkable yarn is patterned and sewn on a fabric, the heat-shrinkable yarn is shrunk by heating to form an uneven pattern on the fabric. After that, in the method of producing a fabric having only a concavo-convex pattern by removing the heat-shrinkable yarn, it is possible to provide excellent concavo-convex feeling, improve the removability after shrinkage of the heat-shrinkable yarn, and improve the appearance quality of the sewing marks after the removal. The purpose is to improve.

As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor used a heat-shrinkable yarn having a shrinkage ratio of 30% or more in boiling water, and the fabric weight (A) (g / m ² ) The relationship of fineness (B) (dtex) is selected so as to satisfy the range of 0.24 ≦ A / B ≦ 0.55, and the heat shrink yarn is sewn to the fabric by single-ring stitching and removed after shrinkage. We found that it can be solved by the method.

  By carrying out by the method of the present invention, a fabric or garment having a three-dimensional pattern with an excellent concavo-convex feeling and having a natural concavo-convex sensation and a good appearance quality of sewing marks because there is no yarn used for pattern expression. It can be manufactured in a simple way.

  In the present invention, it is necessary that the boiling water shrinkage of the heat-shrinkable yarn is 30% or more. The heat-shrinkable yarn used in the present invention is sewn on a fabric and heat-treated to form a concavo-convex pattern on the fabric. Although it can be expressed, if the shrinkage rate is less than 30%, a sufficient uneven pattern cannot be expressed on the fabric. In the case where the heat shrink yarn is removed after the swell pattern is developed on the fabric as described above, the shrinkage rate of the heat shrink yarn is preferably as large as possible, but the handleability tends to deteriorate even if it becomes too large. Therefore, the shrinkage rate is preferably 80% or less, more preferably 30 to 70%, and still more preferably 35 to 65%.

  The heat shrink yarn as described above is preferably a heat shrink yarn made of vinyl chloride fiber and / or polyester fiber. In the case of polyester fiber, it can be highly shrunk by copolymerizing isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 5-sodium isophthalic acid, etc. Especially, as such polyester fiber, polyethylene obtained by copolymerizing 2 to 15 mol% of isophthalic acid. A terephthalate polyester fiber is preferred. In the present invention, a yarn in which both fibers are mixed or combined may be used.

  The fineness of the heat shrink yarn is preferably 1600 dtex. When the fineness is exceeded, the thread hole is damaged by the sewing thread when it is pulled out, or the hole is enlarged, resulting in poor appearance quality.

Further, the relationship between the fabric weight (A) (g / m ² ) and the heat shrink yarn fineness (B) (dtex) needs to be in the range of 0.24 ≦ A / B ≦ 0.55. More preferably, the range is 0.26 ≦ A / B ≦ 0.50. If it exceeds 0.55, the shrinkage force on the fabric will be small, so that the unevenness will be insufficient, or the heat shrink yarn will become relatively thin and will be easily cut, resulting in poor yarn removability. If it is less than 0.24, a product having a strong contraction force and excellent unevenness can be obtained. However, since the heat-shrinkable thread becomes relatively thick, the sewing trace of the thread becomes visible from the surface or is removed when it is removed. May be damaged, resulting in poor appearance quality.

  It is necessary to sew the fabric with a single ring stitch by a method such as a sewing machine or hand stitching using the heat shrinkable yarn of the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, single-ring stitching here refers to a stitch made with only one upper thread, and the back side of the fabric is a stitch that continues as a chain of needle thread loops. To tell. Therefore, the sewn thread can be easily removed from the fabric. In addition, since the heat shrinkable yarns are connected in a stretchable form, the shrinkability can be improved, and even when heat shrinkable yarns with relatively small fineness are used, a large shrinkage can be obtained, and the unevenness feeling is more excellent. Can be. A garment after sewing can be used instead of the fabric, and a concavo-convex pattern having a design effect can be easily given to the garment.

  When the heat-shrinkable thread is sewn in a sewing manner such as main stitching or overlock, the heat-shrinkable thread remains on the fabric when the heat-shrinkable thread is removed, or the workability when removing the heat-shrinkable thread becomes very poor.

  As a method of shrinking, both dry heat and wet heat methods can be used, but it is preferable to use boiling water. The shrinkage rate of the heat-shrinkable yarn at a dry heat of 120 ° C. is usually 35% or more, and even with dry heat, a concavo-convex pattern can be formed on the fabric at a low temperature, but usually the fabric is first subjected to 85 ° C. to boiling water in warm water or steam. It is particularly suitable to carry out a dry heat treatment at 100 to 150 ° C. after that. In this way, the heat shrink yarn is contracted to form irregularities on the surface of the fabric or clothes.

Further, it is necessary to remove the heat-shrinkable yarn, but it is very easy to remove because of single-ring stitching, the stitch mark is small, and the quality can be improved without damage.
The dyed fabric or garment can be sewn with heat-shrinkable yarn by the method of the present invention, and after shrinking to give a concavo-convex pattern, it can include a process in which the convex part is scratched or bleached. Can be excellent. The step of rubbing the fabric surface may be a stone wash or a simple washing step, and the bleaching step may include bleaching.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. In addition, the preparation method of the test piece used in the Example and its evaluation method are as follows.
(1) Fabric basis weight, thickness, and bulk density Measured according to JIS L 1096.
(2) Shrinkage rate and fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn Measured according to JIS L 1013.
(3) A visual judgment is performed to determine the unevenness of the fabric.
○: There is a three-dimensional unevenness. Δ: Less unevenness. ×: No unevenness.
(4) About the removal performance of the heat shrinkable thread, the heat shrinkable thread is pinched with tweezers and removed from the fabric. The residual state and workability of the heat-shrinkable yarn at that time are determined by sensory evaluation.
○: Good removal performance. Δ: Normal removal performance. X: Removal performance is poor.
(5) Visually determine the appearance quality of the fabric (sewing thread residue, sewing thread trace, etc.).
○: Appearance quality is good. Δ: Appearance quality is normal. X: Appearance quality is poor.
(6) For the overall determination, the determination is made from 1) and 2).
○: Good overall judgment. Δ: General judgment is normal. X: The overall judgment is bad.

[Example 1]
Five high-shrinkage polyvinyl chloride fibers of 220 dtex (“Tevilon” manufactured by Teijin Techno Products) were combined and twisted at 300 T / m in the S direction to obtain a high-shrinkage yarn of 1100 dtex. The high shrinkage yarn obtained had a boiling water shrinkage of 39%. Next, this high shrinkage thread was sewed onto a denim fabric having a basis weight of 400 g / m ² by single ring sewing. A (weight of fabric) / B (fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn) = 0.36. It was immersed in boiling water for 40 minutes, and then subjected to a dry heat treatment at 120 ° C. for 10 minutes to form a fabric having an uneven pattern. The resulting fabric was evaluated for unevenness, sewn high shrinkage thread removability, and appearance quality of the fabric. The feeling of unevenness was good, and because of single ring sewing, the high shrinkage thread was easy to come off, and the quality of the traces after the thread was pulled out was also good.

[Example 2]
Three high-shrinkage polyvinyl chloride fibers of 220 dtex (“Tevilon” manufactured by Teijin Techno Products) were combined, and 300 T / m was twisted in the S direction to obtain a high-shrinkage fiber of 660 dtex. The resulting high shrinkage fiber had a boiling water shrinkage of 39%. Next, this highly shrinkable fiber was sewn to a denim fabric having a basis weight of 350 g / m ² by single ring stitching. A (weight of fabric) / B (fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn) = 0.53. Thereafter, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed, and the evaluation of the unevenness of the obtained fabric, the removability of the sewn high shrinkage yarn, and the appearance quality of the fabric were evaluated. The feeling of unevenness was very good, the high shrinkage yarn was easy to come off, and the quality of the trace after the yarn was pulled out was also good.

[Example 3]
After aligning two polyethylene terephthalate fibers (“Tetron” made by Teijin Fibers) copolymerized with 10 mol% of 133 dtex isophthalic acid, they were combined with 84 dtex high-shrinkage polyvinyl chloride (“Teviron” made by Teijin Techno Products). The yarn was twisted at 300 T / m in the S direction to obtain a high shrinkage yarn of 150 dtex. The high shrinkage yarn obtained had a boiling water shrinkage of 35%. Next, A (fabric basis weight) / B (fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn) obtained by sewing this high shrinkage yarn on a boiled fabric having a basis weight of 50 g / m ² by single ring stitching. = 0.33. Thereafter, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed, and the evaluation of the unevenness of the obtained fabric, the removability of the sewn high shrinkage yarn, and the appearance quality of the fabric were evaluated. The feeling of unevenness was good, the high-shrinkage yarn was easy to come out, and the quality of the trace after the yarn was pulled out was also good.

[Example 4]
Seven high-shrinkage polyvinyl chloride fibers of 220 dtex (“Tevilon” manufactured by Teijin Techno Products) were combined and twisted at 300 T / m in the S direction to obtain a high-shrinkage fiber of 1540 dtex. The resulting high shrinkage fiber had a boiling water shrinkage of 39%. Next, this highly shrinkable fiber was sewn to a denim fabric having a basis weight of 400 g / m ² by single ring stitching. A (weight of fabric) / B (fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn) = 0.26. Thereafter, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed, and the evaluation of the unevenness of the obtained fabric, the removability of the sewn high shrinkage yarn, and the appearance quality of the fabric were evaluated. The feeling of unevenness was almost good, the shrink yarn was easy to come off, and the quality of the trace after the yarn was removed was also good.

[Comparative Example 1]
Eight yarns of 220 dtex high-shrinkage polyvinyl chloride fibers (“Tevilon” manufactured by Teijin Techno Products) were combined and subjected to 300 T / m twisting in the S direction to obtain 1760 dtex high-shrinkage fibers. The resulting high shrinkage fiber had a boiling water shrinkage of 39%. Next, this highly shrinkable fiber was sewn to a denim fabric having a basis weight of 350 g / m ² by single ring stitching. A (weight of fabric) / B (fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn) = 0.20. Thereafter, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed, and the evaluation of the unevenness of the obtained fabric, the removability of the sewn high shrinkage yarn, and the appearance quality of the fabric were evaluated. Although the shrinkage was very good with a high shrinkage, the stitch marks were damaged when the thread was pulled out, the thread marks were enlarged, and the appearance quality was not good.

[Comparative Example 2]
Two high-shrinkage polyvinyl chloride fibers of 220 dtex (“Tevilon” manufactured by Teijin Techno Products) were combined and twisted at 300 T / m in the S direction to obtain a high-shrinkage fiber of 440 dtex. The resulting high shrinkage fiber had a boiling water shrinkage of 39%. Next, this highly shrinkable fiber was sewn to a denim fabric having a basis weight of 300 g / m ² by single ring stitching. A (weight of fabric) / B (fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn) = 0.68. Thereafter, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed, and the evaluation of the unevenness of the obtained fabric, the removability of the sewn high shrinkage yarn, and the appearance quality of the fabric were evaluated. Although it was a high shrinkage yarn, the fineness was small and the shrinkage force was weak, and a sufficient unevenness was not obtained.

[Comparative Example 3]
Five high-shrinkage polyvinyl chloride fibers of 220 dtex (“Tevilon” manufactured by Teijin Techno Products) were combined and twisted at 300 T / m in the S direction to obtain a high-shrinkage yarn of 1100 dtex. The high shrinkage yarn obtained had a boiling water shrinkage of 39%. Next, this high shrinkage thread was sewn to a denim fabric having a basis weight of 400 g / m ² by main sewing. A (weight of fabric) / B (fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn) = 0.36. Thereafter, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed, and the evaluation of the unevenness of the obtained fabric, the removability of the sewn high shrinkage yarn, and the appearance quality of the fabric were evaluated. It is difficult to remove the shrink thread due to the main sewing. Since the yarn could not be removed sufficiently, the appearance quality was poor.

[Comparative Example 4]
Two 280 dtex polyethylene terephthalate fibers (“Tetron” manufactured by Teijin Fibers) were combined and twisted at 300 T / m in the S direction to obtain 560 dtex fibers. The resulting fiber had a boiling water shrinkage of 20%, a thermal stress peak temperature of 200 ° C., and a maximum heat shrinkage stress of 0.26 cN / dtex. Next, this fiber was sewn to a denim fabric having a basis weight of 200 g / m ² by single ring stitching. A (weight of fabric) / B (fineness of heat-shrinkable yarn) = 0.36. Thereafter, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed, and the evaluation of the unevenness of the obtained fabric, the removability of the sewn high shrinkage yarn, and the appearance quality of the fabric were evaluated. Since the shrinkage rate was low, sufficient unevenness was not obtained.

  By the method of the present invention, it is possible not only to obtain fabrics and clothes having a good rugged pattern with good appearance quality, but also to adapt to various designs and patterns, so it can respond to diversification of fashion can do.

The connection state of the sewing thread in the single ring stitching of the present invention is shown.

Claims (6)

In a method of forming a concavo-convex pattern on a fabric by sewing on a fabric with a shrink yarn (hereinafter abbreviated as heat shrink yarn) having a property of shrinking by heating, and shrinking the heat shrink yarn by heating, a) the heat shrink The shrinkage ratio of the yarn in boiling water is 30% or more. B) The relationship between the fabric weight (A) (g / m ² ) and the heat shrink yarn fineness (B) (dtex) is 0.25 ≦ A cloth having a concavo-convex pattern, characterized in that A / B ≦ 0.55 is selected, c) the sewing method is single-ring sewing, and d) the heat-shrinkable yarn is removed after shrinkage. Production method.   The method for producing a fabric having a concavo-convex pattern according to claim 1, wherein the heat-shrinkable yarn is a heat-shrinkable yarn made of vinyl chloride fiber and / or polyester fiber.   The method for producing a fabric having a concavo-convex pattern according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the fineness of the heat-shrinkable yarn is 1600 dtex or less.   The method for producing a fabric having an uneven pattern according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fabric is after dyeing.   The method for producing a fabric having light and shade patterns according to claim 4, wherein the heat shrink yarn is removed after the surface of the fabric is subjected to a treatment of rubbing and / or bleaching after heat shrinkage.   The method for producing a garment having a concavo-convex pattern according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the cloth is a sewn garment.

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