JP2002054070A - Craped garment and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a craped garment which has rich stretchability, good comfort similar to that of a knitted fabric, and high-grade appearance, and to provide a method for producing the same. SOLUTION: Stitch patterns 3 each having a prescribed shape are applied to a cloth 2 comprising water-insoluble elastic yarns to form the decorated cloth 1, and the cloth 1 is cut into the parts 6A to 6F of a garment, which are then sewed to produce the garment 5 having a prescribed size and a prescribed shape. The garment 6 is then thermally treated to thermally shrink the water-insoluble elastic yarns, thereby obtaining the craped garment in which crapes 8 are formed in the cloth 2. Since the crapes are held with the water- insoluble elastic yarns, various cloths can be used to form the garments, and the obtained craped garments are similar to knitted fabric garments, and have high grade appearances, rich stretchability and good comforts.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a grained garment having an uneven pattern on a cloth surface and a method of manufacturing the same, and more particularly, to a knit-like high-grade garment with a stretch property and a method of manufacturing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, fabrics having creases (wrinkles) represented by crepe, crepe, etc., ie, wavy irregularities, are well known as clothes. Generally, such a woven fabric uses a strong twist yarn for either the warp or the weft, and causes the fabric surface to shrink or weave due to its tension.In recent years, embossing by embossing with a roller has been widely practiced. Have been done. There is also known a textured fabric obtained by sewing a heat-shrinkable thread on a fabric and thermally shrinking the thread. For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-105074 discloses a similar fabric.
The publication discloses a fabric manufacturing method in which a cross-woven fabric in which shrinkable non-water-soluble yarns are woven is produced, and wrinkles are formed on the cross-woven fabric by shrinkage of the shrinkable non-water-soluble yarns.

[0003] However, since such a cloth has a large number of irregularities, it is not only difficult to sew the garment such as a dress, but also the stretchability of the cloth in the vicinity of the seam due to the sewing thread. (Stretchability) is lost, so that the resulting garment has a serious drawback in that it has no fit and is not comfortable to wear. Also, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-1
As described in Japanese Patent No. 05074, there is also a problem that the uneven pattern that can be formed is limited and hardly changed in the case where the shrinkable water-insoluble yarn is woven.

Therefore, as described in Japanese Patent No. 3049058 and the like, a garment sewn from a fabric containing thermoplastic fibers and a heat-shrinkable fabric are superimposed, and both are sewn with a water-soluble thread. There has been proposed a method in which unevenness is formed on a garment fabric by thermally shrinking the heat-shrinkable fabric.

[0005]

However, according to the above-mentioned method, although a variety of uneven patterns can be easily formed depending on the positions and patterns of the water-soluble yarns, the fabric (cloth) ) Is limited to thermoplastic fibers such as polyester fibers, and other fabrics cannot fix the unevenness, and the uneven pattern disappears after the water-soluble yarn is released. For this reason, in the above-mentioned conventional method, a thermoplastic cloth is used as the cloth of the garment, and the irregularities obtained by the heat shrinkage of the heat-shrinkable cloth are heat-fixed. However, the cloth heat-fixed with the irregularities has many fine irregularities. However, there is a problem that it lacks stretchability.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and a purpose thereof is to provide a knit-like high-grade stretch-rich cloth obtained by using various kinds of fabrics regardless of the type of the fabric. An object of the present invention is to provide a feeling-appearing garment with a grain and a manufacturing method thereof.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a garment with a grain as described below and a method for producing the same. (1) Using a decorative cloth formed by applying a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to a cloth with a water-insoluble elastic yarn having heat shrinkability,
After sewing clothing having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape,
A grained garment obtained by thermally shrinking the water-insoluble elastic yarn. (2) A step of applying a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to the fabric using a water-insoluble elastic yarn having heat shrinkability, and sewing a garment having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape using the decorative cloth obtained thereby. And a step of subjecting the garment to a heat treatment to thermally shrink the water-insoluble elastic yarn. (3) After sewing clothes having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape from the cloth, a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape is formed so that the front and rear cloths are not stitched partially or entirely with a non-water-soluble elastic yarn having heat shrinkability. And then subjecting the garment to a heat treatment to thermally shrink the non-water-soluble elastic yarn. (4) In clothing obtained by suturing a plurality of parts,
Using a decorative cloth formed by applying a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to a cloth with a water-insoluble elastic yarn having heat shrinkability, forming the decorative cloth into at least one part to form a garment having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape. A method for producing crimped garment, wherein the garment is subjected to a heat treatment after the sewing, so that the water-insoluble elastic yarn is thermally contracted. (5) In each of the above methods, when the fabric is stitched with a water-insoluble elastic yarn, the fabric is overlapped with a water-soluble sheet, and the stitch pattern is formed while applying the stitch pattern to the fabric in that state. Simultaneously suturing the fabric and the water-soluble sheet with a water-insoluble elastic yarn, and thermally shrinking the water-soluble sheet with the water-insoluble elastic yarn,
Alternatively, a method for producing crimped clothing, comprising dissolving and removing the water-insoluble elastic yarn after heat shrinking it.

In the present invention, clothing includes outerwear such as one-piece dresses, jackets, vests, and shirts, underwear such as bras, shorts, and girdle, and further includes skirts, slacks, socks, gloves, hats, and the like. Refers to clothing in general.

[0009]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. First, FIG. 1 is a plan view showing a part of a decorative cloth used in the present invention. The decorative cloth 1 has a stitch pattern 3 of a predetermined shape on a cloth 2 forming a base thereof.
Is configured. The fabric 2 may be made of recycled fiber such as viscose rayon, semi-synthetic fiber such as acetate rayon, or synthetic fiber such as nylon, vinylon, Tetron (registered trademark), acrylic, polyester, or the like. In addition, natural fibers such as cotton and hemp that do not have thermoplasticity can be used. or,
The cloth 2 is cut into a predetermined shape, and this cutting may be performed before or after the stitch pattern 3 is formed.

Next, FIG. 2 shows a partially enlarged cross section taken along line XX of FIG. In FIG. 2, 4 is an upper thread, 5 is a lower thread, and a stitch pattern is formed by the upper thread 4 and the lower thread 5. In this example, a normal embroidery thread made of cotton or the like is used for the upper thread 4, and a water-insoluble elastic thread having heat shrinkability is used for the lower thread 5. This water-insoluble elastic yarn is a high elasticity yarn made of a synthetic polymer containing polyurethane as a main component such as spandex. It includes a bare yarn made of 100% polyurethane fiber, and other fibers such as nylon around the polyurethane core. Or a core spun yarn in which a spun yarn is formed by using polyurethane as a core material in a spinning process of cotton or the like. In particular, as such yarns (water-insoluble elastic yarns), Operon and Marlon manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., Leica manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation, Espa manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., Fujibo Spandex manufactured by Fuji Spinning Co., Ltd., and Nisshinbo In addition to Mobilon manufactured by Aki Co., Ltd., Novac, Novell manufactured by Kanebo Synthetic Co., Ltd., and spuntel manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd., as well as polyether-ester based products such as Lexe manufactured by Teijin Limited and Success manufactured by Unitika Ltd. There is something.

The stitch pattern 3 is formed by sewing the above water-insoluble elastic thread on the cloth 2 with a sewing machine or an embroidery machine.
Or the stitch pattern 3 can be formed using only the water-insoluble elastic yarn.

Next, FIG. 3 shows a garment (outer garment of a garment, particularly a one-piece dress for women in this example) sewn using the decorative cloth as described above. Here, the garment 6 is obtained by sewing a plurality of parts 6A to 6F made of the decorative cloth 1 as described above. Parts 6A and 6B are the front body, part 6C is the back body, parts 6D and 6E are sleeves, and part 6F is a collar.
F is sewn by a sewing thread 7 indicated by a broken line. In particular, the garment 6 is formed large considering the shrinkage due to the water-insoluble elastic yarn. The size of the fabric of the garment 6, that is, a sample similar to the decorative cloth 1 constituting each part is prepared in advance,
This is set based on data obtained by heat shrinking this. For example, a sample of 10 cm on a side becomes 1 by heat shrinkage.
/ 2 size, the same decorative cloth 1
Are set to be twice as large as the finished product.

The obtained garment 6 is subjected to a heat treatment using a heat medium such as steam, so that the garment with crimps 8 is formed on the cloth 2 by heat shrinkage of the water-insoluble elastic yarn. A (see FIG. 4) can be obtained. In addition, as a heat medium used for the heat treatment of the garment 6, in addition to steam, hot air, hot water, or hot water can be used. However, it is desirable to wet-heat the garment at a temperature of 50 to 130 ° C. using moist steam or hot water (hot water) in order to suitably heat-shrink the water-insoluble elastic yarn.

Here, in the above example, all parts 6A-6
Although the clothing 6 having a predetermined shape is sewn using F as the decorative cloth 1, the decorative cloth is not used for all parts. For example, only the parts 6A to 6C shown in FIG. It is possible to obtain the crimped garment B on which the crimps 8 are formed only in a suitable body. Further, the decorative cloth 1 is not limited to the one in which the stitch pattern 3 is applied to the entire cloth 2, and may be a decorative cloth 1 ′ in which the stitch pattern 3 is applied to only a part of the cloth 2. For example, using such a decorative cloth 1 ', it is possible to obtain a grained garment C in which the grain 8 is formed only on the hem or cuff as shown in FIG. In particular, in the case of the garment C with grain as shown in FIG. 6, in addition to sewing the garment from the decorative cloth 1 'as described above, the garment is sewn using a suitable cloth, and then the non-water-soluble elastic is applied to the hem and cuffs. The thread may be sewn to form a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape.

The above-described stitch pattern can be applied by a sewing machine or an embroidery machine. In particular, automatic stitching can be performed based on a computer program, but it can also be applied by hand sewing.

As described above, the decorative cloths 1 and 1 'are formed on the cloth 2 by using a water-insoluble elastic yarn to form a stitch pattern 3 having a predetermined shape.
When the fabric 2 is a thin and flexible waist such as a lace, if the fabric 2 is subjected to a stitch pattern 3 made of a water-insoluble elastic yarn, the fabric 2 shrinks due to embroidery deformation, This may make it difficult to sew clothing 6 as shown in FIG. Therefore, when a lace or the like is used as the fabric 2 on which the stitch pattern 3 is applied, it is preferable to stitch a lining made of a water-soluble sheet to the fabric 2 for reinforcement. In this example, a polyvinyl alcohol-based nonwoven fabric called a sol sheet having high solubility in hot water of 80 ° C. or higher is used as the water-soluble sheet. In FIG. 7, reference numeral 9 denotes the water-soluble sheet, which is laid on the fabric 2 as a backing when the stitch pattern 3 is applied, and is sewn to the fabric 2 with a water-insoluble elastic thread.
That is, the fabric 2 and the water-soluble sheet 9 are overlapped, and in this state, the fabric 2 and the water-soluble sheet 9 are stitched with the non-water-soluble elastic thread forming the stitch pattern 3 while applying the stitch pattern 3 to the fabric 2. As a result, the decorative cloth 1 "as shown in Fig. 7 can be obtained. And, according to such a decorative cloth 1", the clothes can be easily maintained while keeping the flat shape without causing the water-insoluble elastic yarn to shrink. The water-soluble sheet 9 can be easily dissolved and removed simultaneously with the heat treatment of the garment to thermally shrink the water-insoluble elastic yarn, or after the heat shrinkage, using warm water. .

Next, a specific manufacturing method for manufacturing the grained clothing according to the present invention will be described.

[0018]

Example 1 An embroidery thread was used for the upper thread and a water-insoluble elastic thread (Marlon manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) was used for the lower thread. A garment having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape by decorating the decorative cloth and cutting the decorative cloth into a predetermined shape, or sewing the cut and sewn into a tubular shape to form parts such as a body and sleeves, and sewing the respective parts together. And after exposing the garment to a 90 ° C. atmosphere filled with wet steam for several minutes,
This was dried to obtain a knit-like stretchable crimped garment A in which a crimp 8 was formed on the entire fabric with the shrinkage of the water-insoluble elastic yarn as shown in FIG.

[0019]

Embodiment 2 A cloth made of polyester fiber or the like is cut into a body shape in advance, and an embroidery thread is used as an upper thread on the cloth.
Using a water-insoluble elastic thread (Marlon manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) as the lower thread, a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape is formed by a sewing machine or an embroidery machine, and the obtained decorative cloth is sewn as a part to obtain a predetermined size and a predetermined size. 90 ° C, which sew clothing having the shape of
After being exposed to the atmosphere for several minutes, this was dried to obtain garment A with embossment similar to that of Example 1.

[0020]

Example 3 Using a embroidery thread as the upper thread and a water-insoluble elastic thread (Marlon manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) as the lower thread, a sewing machine or an embroidery machine is used to apply a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to a fabric made of polyester fiber or the like. Decorative cloth, this decorative cloth is cut into a predetermined shape to make the front and rear parts, while the cloth made of polyester fiber or the like is cut into a predetermined shape, or the cut is sewn into a tubular shape. The parts that form the collar and sleeves are sewn together to sew garments having a predetermined size and shape, and after exposing the garments to a 90 ° C atmosphere filled with wet steam for several minutes, By drying the crimp 8 only on the body as shown in FIG.
Was obtained, and the garment B with grain was formed.

[0021]

Embodiment 4 A cloth having a predetermined shape is formed by cutting a cloth made of polyester fiber or the like to form parts having a predetermined shape, and the respective parts are sewn to sew clothing having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape. A stitch pattern of a predetermined shape is formed by hand-sewing with a water-insoluble elastic thread (Marlon manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.), and then the garment is filled with wet steam 90.
After being exposed to an atmosphere of ° C. for several minutes, this was dried to obtain a garment C with a grain having a grain 8 formed on the hem or cuff as shown in FIG.

[0022]

Embodiment 5 A cloth made of a lace or the like having a through hole is overlapped with a water-soluble sheet made of polyvinyl alcohol. In this state, an embroidery thread is used as the upper thread, and a water-insoluble elastic thread (made by Toray Industries, Inc.) is used as the lower thread. While applying a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to the fabric and the water-soluble sheet using a sewing machine or an embroidery machine, the fabric and the water-soluble sheet are sewn with an embroidery thread and a water-insoluble elastic thread forming the stitch pattern. Then, the obtained decorative cloth is cut into a predetermined shape, or the cut one is sewn and repaired into a tubular shape to form parts such as a body and sleeves, and each part is sewn to have a predetermined size and a predetermined shape. Sewing the garment, exposing the garment to a 90 ° C. atmosphere filled with moist steam for several minutes to thermally shrink the water-insoluble elastic yarn, and then immersing the garment in 95 ° C. warm water for several minutes to remove the water-soluble sheet After dissolving and removing Obtained similar embossed with clothing A of Example 1 by 燥.

[0023]

Embodiment 6 A cloth made of a lace or the like having a through hole is superimposed on a water-soluble sheet made of polyvinyl alcohol. In this state, an embroidery thread is used as the upper thread, and a water-insoluble elastic thread (made by Toray Industries, Inc.) is used as the lower thread. While applying a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to the fabric and the water-soluble sheet using a sewing machine or an embroidery machine, the fabric and the water-soluble sheet are sewn with an embroidery thread and a water-insoluble elastic thread forming the stitch pattern. Then, the obtained decorative cloth is cut into a predetermined shape, or the cut one is sewn and repaired into a tubular shape to form parts such as a body and sleeves, and each part is sewn to have a predetermined size and a predetermined shape. The garment is sewn, and the garment is exposed to warm water at 95 ° C. for several minutes to dissolve and remove the water-soluble sheet while thermally shrinking the water-insoluble elastic yarn, and then drying the same to dry the same as in Example 1. With attached clothing A It was.

FIGS. 8 to 10 show the form of the stitch pattern and the form of the grain generated by the stitch pattern. First, in FIG. 8, according to the stitch pattern 3 in which two kinds of large and small spirals are continuously provided as shown in FIG. 8A, a grain 8 as shown in FIG. 8B can be formed. In other words, the inside of the spiral appears as wrinkled projections, and a number of streaks appear between them. FIG.
In the stitch pattern 3 as shown in FIG. 7A, the grain 8 as shown in FIG. The grain 8 has large and small irregularities appearing as stripes. Further, in the stitch pattern 3 as shown in FIG. 10A, a grain 8 as shown in FIG. 10B is formed. The grain 8 appears in a state in which large and small irregularities are arranged irregularly.

The application examples of the present invention have been described above. However, the garment with a grain according to the present invention is not limited to those with sleeves or collars, but also the above-mentioned outerwear, underwear such as brassiere, socks, It can be applied to gloves. Further, in each of the above embodiments, the stitch pattern is formed by using a water-insoluble elastic yarn of the same color as the cloth, but after sewing the garment, the cloth is immersed in a dye or the like to form the fabric and the water-insoluble elastic yarn. Can be dyed in the same color, or the color tone of the fabric and the water-insoluble elastic yarn can be intentionally made different from each other to impart a design with the grain and the stitch pattern.

[0026]

As is apparent from the above description, according to the present invention, a predetermined size and a predetermined size can be obtained by using a fabric (decorative cloth) on which a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape is formed with a water-insoluble elastic yarn. After sewing the clothing having the shape, the water-insoluble elastic yarn is heat shrunk to form the grain, so that various grain can be easily formed only by changing the stitch pattern,
In addition, since the grain is held with the elasticity of the water-insoluble elastic yarn remaining on the cloth, the shape retention of the grain is good.

In addition, compared with a heat-fixed grain, it is possible to obtain a crimped garment with good stretchability and a good fit, and it can be manufactured irrespective of the material of the fabric. Attached clothing can be provided.

Furthermore, when a stitch pattern is applied to a fabric, the fabric and the water-soluble sheet are sewn with a water-insoluble elastic thread that forms the stitch pattern. The garment can be easily sewn, and the water-soluble sheet can be easily dissolved and removed by dipping it in warm water, so that it does not hinder the formation of grain.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic plan view showing a part of a decorative cloth used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a partially enlarged cross-sectional view taken along line XX of FIG.

FIG. 3 is a schematic plan view showing clothing sewn with a decorative cloth.

FIG. 4 is a schematic plan view showing a garment with a grain obtained by the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a schematic plan view showing a garment with a grain obtained according to the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a schematic plan view showing a garment with a grain obtained by the present invention.

FIG. 7 is a partial schematic view showing another configuration of the decorative cloth.

FIG. 8A is an example of forming a stitch pattern,
(B) is a partial plan view showing the form of the grain formed by this (copy of photograph)

FIG. 9A is an example of forming a stitch pattern;
(B) is a partial plan view showing the form of the grain formed by this (copy of photograph)

FIG. 10A is an example of forming a stitch pattern,
(B) is a partial plan view showing the form of the grain formed by this (copy of photograph)

[Explanation of symbols]

 1, 1 ', 1 "decorative cloth 2 cloth 3 stitch pattern 4 upper thread 5 lower thread (water-insoluble elastic thread) 6 clothing 6A to 6F clothing parts 7 sewing thread 8 emboss

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) A41D 31/00 502 A41D 31/00 502U D06C 23/04 D06C 23/04 A

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A garment having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape is sewn using a decorative cloth formed by applying a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to a fabric with a non-water-soluble elastic yarn having heat shrinkability. Creased clothing obtained by thermally shrinking elastic elastic yarn. 2. A step of applying a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to the fabric using a water-insoluble elastic yarn having heat shrinkability, and a garment having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape using the decorative cloth obtained thereby. A method for producing a grained garment, comprising a step of sewing and a step of subjecting the garment to a heat treatment to thermally shrink the water-insoluble elastic yarn. 3. A garment having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape is sewn from a cloth, and a part of or the whole is sewn with a heat-shrinkable non-water-soluble elastic thread so that the front and rear cloths are not stitched. A method for producing grained clothing, comprising applying a stitch pattern and then subjecting the clothing to heat treatment to thermally shrink the water-insoluble elastic yarn. 4. A garment obtained by suturing a plurality of parts, using a decorative cloth formed by applying a stitch pattern of a predetermined shape to a cloth with a heat-shrinkable non-water-soluble elastic thread, and using at least one decorative cloth. A garment having a predetermined size and a predetermined shape as a single part, and then subjecting the garment to a heat treatment to thermally shrink the water-insoluble elastic yarn, the method comprising: . 5. A non-water-soluble fabric comprising a fabric and a water-soluble sheet, wherein the fabric is overlaid with a water-soluble sheet when a stitch pattern is formed on the fabric with a water-insoluble elastic yarn. The cloth and the water-soluble sheet are sewn together with an elastic thread, and the water-soluble sheet is heat-shrinked with the water-insoluble elastic thread, or dissolved and removed after the water-insoluble elastic thread is heat-shrinked. The method for producing grained clothing according to claim 2, 3, or 4.