FR3062059A1 - BASE OF CONCENTRATED COSMETIC FORMULATION DESCRIPTION - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a concentrated cosmetic formulation base comprising a glycolized phase comprising from 15 to 80% by weight of glycol, from 0 to 50% by weight of water, and from 0.2 to 5% by weight of gelling agents relative to the total weight of the composition, and an oily phase comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of emollients and from 0.2 to 10% by weight of at least one emulsifier. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising said formulation base as well as to the cosmetic use of said cosmetic composition.

Description

Holder (s):

LABORATORIES M&L Public limited company.

O Extension request (s):

© Agent (s): NOVAGRAAF TECHNOLOGIES.

* 54) BASIS OF CONCENTRATED COSMETIC FORMULATION DESCRIPTION.

FR 3,062,059 - A1 (57) The present invention relates to a concentrated cosmetic formulation base comprising a glycolized phase comprising from 15 to 80% by weight of glycol, from 0 to 50% by weight of water, and from 0 , 2 to 5% by weight of gelling agents relative to the total weight of the composition, and an oily phase comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of emollients and from 0.2 to 10% by weight of at least one emulsifier. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising said formulation base as well as to the cosmetic use of said cosmetic composition.

BASIS OF CONCENTRATED COSMETIC FORMULATION DESCRIPTION

Technical area

The present invention relates to a concentrated cosmetic formulation base comprising a glycolized phase comprising from 15 to 80% by weight of glycol, or of a mixture of glycol and polyol, for example of glycol and glycerin, from 0 to 50% by weight. weight of water, and from 0.2 to 5% by weight of gelling agents relative to the total weight of the composition, and an oily phase comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of emollients and from 0.2 to 10% by weight weight of at least one emulsifier relative to the total weight of the formulation base.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising said formulation base as well as to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The present invention finds an application in particular in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.

In the description below, the references in square brackets ([]) refer to the list of references presented at the end of the text.

State of the art

There are currently many different forms of cosmetic compositions whatever their cosmetic application. Cosmetic compositions generally comprise cosmetic active agents included in compositions, for example oils, creams, emulsions, lotions, etc. These compositions can be qualified as “cosmetic bases”. There are currently numerous cosmetic bases from which the finished compositions including the cosmetic active agents are obtained.

However, to obtain the finished compositions, it is necessary to implement complex processes which may optionally involve dilutions and hot stirring, that is to say by heating the base, for inclusion of the cosmetic active agent (s).

There are also cosmetic bases suitable for obtaining composition in the form of an emulsion. Furthermore, known cosmetic bases may have short storage times and / or unsuitable for the production and industrial conservation of said bases. Also, the preparation of said bases must be done piecemeal thus reducing production flexibility. Also, in order to avoid degradation over time and / or contamination / colonization of the bases, for example due to the presence in the bases of undesirable external agents, it is sometimes necessary to incorporate preservatives, for example 'alcohol, likely to alter the formulation / dosage and / or the composition of cosmetic bases.

There is therefore a real need to find new bases for cosmetic products, in particular new cosmetic bases allowing the incorporation of cosmetic active ingredients without implementing complex processes.

There is also a real need to find new cosmetic bases having a suitable texture whatever their use and suitable preservation properties.

In addition, there is also a real need to find new cosmetic bases, for example without a preservative, with reduced manufacturing costs and the industrial production of which is not an obstacle.

Finally, there is a real need to find new cosmetic bases allowing the incorporation of cosmetic active ingredients through the implementation of simple processes.

Description of the invention

The purpose of the present invention is precisely to meet these numerous needs by providing a concentrated base of cosmetic formulation comprising:

a glycolized phase comprising from 15 to 80% by weight of glycol, or of a mixture of glycol and polyol, for example glycol and glycerin, from 0 to 50% by weight of water, and from 0.2 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent relative to the total weight of the base,

an oily phase comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of at least one emollient, from 0.2 to 10% by weight of at least one emulsifier relative to the total weight of the base.

The inventors of the present are in fact the very first to have demonstrated, quite unexpectedly, that a cosmetic formulation base comprising a glycolized phase comprising from 15 to 80% by weight of a glycol, or d a mixture of glycol and polyol, for example glycol and glycerin, from 0 to 50% by weight of water, and from 0.2 to 3% by weight of at least one gelling agent relative to the total weight of the base, and an oily phase comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of at least one emollient, from 0.2 to 10% by weight of at least one emulsifier relative to the total weight of the base advantageously makes it possible to obtain a concentrated base for cosmetic formulation allowing cosmetic composition to be obtained by simple dilution and / or mixing of the base with a solution.

In particular, the inventors have demonstrated, quite unexpectedly, that the cosmetic base according to the invention can make it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions without the heating step. In other words, the inventors have demonstrated that the cosmetic base according to the invention can advantageously make it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions without implementing complex processes requiring, for example heating of the cosmetic base.

The inventors of the present have also demonstrated, quite unexpectedly, that the concentrated cosmetic base according to the invention is advantageously microbiologically more stable and makes it possible, by virtue of the concentration of its various components, to obtain a large number of cosmetic compositions with different textures.

In addition, the inventors have also demonstrated and obtained, in particular due to the choice of ingredients, a concentrated base without water or with a low water content, a high emollient content which is stable over time, whether at the physicochemical level and / or microbiological.

The inventors have surprisingly demonstrated that the formulation base, in particular by virtue of its preservation and / or stability properties, can be advantageously stored without degradation. In addition, the formulation base can be used, for example mixed with a solution in order to form an immediate cosmetic composition, without the need for any particular manufacturing process, for example simple mixing with or without heating. Advantageously, the inventors have also demonstrated that the formulation base makes it possible to obtain fresh cosmetic compositions, making it possible to reduce the possible deterioration of the cosmetic active agent (s). In addition, the inventors have demonstrated, by the simplicity of manufacture of the composition from the formulation base, a "home" manufacture of a cosmetic composition from this base.

In addition, the inventors have surprisingly demonstrated that the choice of the ranges of glycol concentrations and of the mixture of glycol and polyol, for example glycol and glycerin, advantageously and unlike the known bases, makes it possible to have a stable cosmetic formulation base. , both physico-chemical and microbiological.

In addition, the inventors, contrary to the teaching of the art, obtained a stable cosmetic base in particular via a particular selection of ranges of concentrations and choice of components. In particular, the inventors, through the selection of ranges of concentrations and of the ingredients, in particular water, of glycol and of the mixture of glycol and polyol, for example glycol and glycerine, at least one emulsifier, and at least one gelling agent made it possible obtaining a cosmetic base which advantageously makes it possible, by simple cold mixing, for example by cold dilution, to obtain a stable cosmetic composition with a viscosity suitable for cosmetic use.

In addition, the inventors, contrary to the teaching of the art, obtained a stable cosmetic base in particular via a particular selection of glycolized phase and oily phase each comprising independently of particular ingredients and ranges of concentrations of said ingredients.

In the present, by “cosmetic formulation base” is meant a base which can be used for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions. It can, for example, be a base for the formation of any form of cosmetic composition known to a person skilled in the art. It can for example be a cosmetic formulation base allowing for example the production of a cream, for example an oil in water emulsion, of a lotion, of a milk.

In the present, by “concentrated cosmetic formulation base” is meant a cosmetic formulation base which makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition, for example, dilution of said base with a solution, for example an aqueous solution, an oily solution , a hydroalcoholic solution. It can be for example water, solvent comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient and / or extract comprising at least one cosmetic active ingredient, whatever its form, and suitable for its incorporation in a cosmetic product.

In the present, by “glycol” is meant linear or branched compounds chosen from the group comprising propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, isopentyldiol, propane-1,3-diol , butane-1,4-diol, pentane-1,5-diol, hexane-1,6-diol, octane-1,8-diol, butane-1,2-diol, butane -2,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, pentane-1,2-diol, 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol or any mixture thereof. It may for example be a compound chosen from the group comprising butylene glycol, propylene glycol, propanediol.

In the present, by "gelling agent" is meant any gelling agent known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be a gelling agent chosen from the group comprising silicates, celluloses, acrylates, algae derivatives, vegetable gums, pectins, starch derivatives, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, a natural gum and / or derived from biotechnological processes or a mixture of these.

In the present, by "silicates" is meant any silicate known to a person skilled in the art capable of being used in a cosmetic base. These may for example be commercially available silicates capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be for example bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite, sodium magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate.

In the present, by "cellulose" is meant any cellulose and / or cellulose derivatives known to a person skilled in the art capable of being used in a cosmetic base. These may for example be commercially available cellulose and / or cellulose derivatives. These may for example be microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydrolysed cellulose gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by "acrylates" is meant any acrylate known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be, for example, acrylates / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate starch, sodium polyacrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, derivatives of Crosspolymer acrylates, carbomers, polyacrylamides and their derivatives or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by "algae derivative" means any algae derivative known to the skilled person and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be, for example, carrageenans, agar, alginates.

In the present, by “vegetable gums” is meant any vegetable gum and / or any natural gum known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be, for example, locust bean gum, guar gum, tara gum, Senegal acacia gum, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, tamarind gum.

In the present, by "gum resulting from a biotechnological process" is meant any gum from a biotechnological process known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can, for example, be a vegetable and / or natural gum obtained from a biotechnological process. It can be, for example, a xanthan gum, a dehydroxanthan gum, a sclerotium gum, a gellan gum or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by "pectin" is meant any polymer of acidic polysaccharides, namely polygalacturonic acid derived from plants known to the skilled person and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be for example pectin from seeds and / or zest, for example from currants, apples, quinces and / or citrus fruits.

In the present, by “starch derivatives” is meant any starch derivative known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be for example sodium carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, tapioca starch, tapioca starch copolymer ("Tapioca Starch Crosspolymer"), corn starch, modified starch potato, diamidon phosphate, dimethylimidazolidinone rice starch, rice starch, pregelatinized waxy corn starch or any mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the gelling agent can be chosen from the group comprising xanthan, dehydroxanthan, guar gum, locust bean gum, sodium polyacrylate and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium acrylate co-polymer, sodium acrylate crosspolymer-2 / silica or any mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the gelling agent can be easily hydratable, making it possible to produce a high viscosity, for example a viscosity greater than 10,000 cps, for example of 20,000, 30,000, 40,000 or 50,000 cps, instantaneously during cold mixing of the base concentrated with a solution as described above. In the present, the viscosity measurement can be carried out by any method or device known to a person skilled in the art, for example with a Brookfield RV5 / RV6V12 device.

Advantageously, the concentrated base can comprise at least one, or at least two gelling agents.

In the present, said at least one gelling agent can be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic base, for example from 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base, for example from 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base.

Advantageously, when the gelling agent comprises a gum resulting from a biotechnological process and / or a natural gum, said gum can be present in the base of cosmetic formulation at a concentration of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base.

Advantageously, when the gelling agent comprises at least one acrylate, said at least one acrylate can be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of 1 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base.

In the present, the water can be mineral water, distilled water, osmosis water, floral water and / or from an aqueous extract.

In the present, water can be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base, for example from 0 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base, from 0 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base, for example from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base, from 2 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base.

In the present, when the water comes from an aqueous extract, the water coming from said aqueous extract can be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said base. of cosmetic formulation, for example from 5 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base, for example from 2 to 35%, for example from 5 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said base of cosmetic formulation.

The inventors have advantageously demonstrated, for example when the water concentration of the cosmetic base is low, for example between 2 and 50%, for example from 2 to 35%, the cosmetic base according to the invention can be advantageously diluted to 1 'use, for example manufacture "at home", for example by the consumer, for example with water, for example floral water, and advantageously allows obtaining a composition with a sensoriality and a viscosity suitable for cosmetic use.

In the present, by “polyol” is meant an organic chemical compound carrying at least three hydroxyl groups (-OH). These may be, for example, compounds an organic chemical compound comprising three to six hydroxyl groups (-OH). It can advantageously be an organic chemical compound comprising three hydroxyl groups (-OH).

In the present, the polyol can be an organic chemical compound carrying at least three hydroxyl groups selected from the group comprising glycerin, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, arabitol, ribitol, dulcitol. It may advantageously be glycerin.

In the present, the polyol may be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of from 0 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base, for example from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base, for example from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base.

In the present, by glycerin means any glycerin known to those skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be glycerin sold by the company Univar under the commercial reference Pharma glycerin vegetable.

In the present, the glycerin may be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of 0 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base, for example from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base, for example from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base.

In the present case, when the glycolized phase of the formulation base comprises a glycol and a polyol, the weight ratio of the glycol and of the polyol in said base can be comprised from 0.1 to 40.

In the present case, when the glycolized phase of the formulation base comprises a glycol and glycerin, the weight ratio of the glycol to glycerin present in said base can be comprised from 0.1 to 40, for example from 0.5 to 7, or equal to 1.

The inventors have advantageously demonstrated, for example when the weight ratio is between 0.5 to 3 or equal to 1, the formulation base is advantageously more sensory, for example has a less sticky and more melting texture.

In the present, the oily phase of the concentrated cosmetic formulation base can also comprise at least one fatty alcohol.

In the present, by "fatty alcohol" means any fatty alcohol known to the skilled person and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be, for example, a fatty alcohol chosen from the group comprising cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or any mixture thereof

In the present, the concentrated base can comprise at least one, at least two, at least three, at least four fatty alcohols.

In the present, the fatty alcohol may be present in the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation at a concentration of from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said base, for example from 0.7 to 1.25 % by weight relative to the total weight of said base.

In the present, by "emollient" is meant any emollient known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be, for example, an emollient chosen from the group comprising a vegetable oil, a vegetable butter, an ester of synthetic origin or of vegetable origin or a mixture of these.

In the present, by “vegetable oil” is meant any vegetable oil known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may be a vegetable oil chosen from the group comprising a sunflower oil, a castor oil, a evening primrose oil, a jojoba oil, a walnut oil, a coconut oil, seed germ oils. wheat, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, shea, avocado, olive, soy, oil sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose or camellia or a mixture of these.

In the present, by “vegetable butter” is meant any vegetable butter known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be a vegetable butter chosen from the group comprising almond butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, olive butter, argan butter, mango butter, cupuaçu butter or a mixture of these.

In the present, by "ester of synthetic or vegetable origin" is meant any ester of synthetic or vegetable origin known to the skilled person and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. Linear mono-alcohols, for example esters of acids and / or mono-alcohols, for example mono- and polyesters of linear acids saturated with C 2 -C 10, preferably C 6 -C 10 saturated in C10-C18, preferably C10-C14, mono- and polyesters of linear acids saturated in C10-C20 and branched or unsaturated mono-alcohols in C3-C20, preferably in C3-C10; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C5-C20 mono-alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated acids in C5-C20 and linear mono-alcohols in C2-C4; C6-C12 fatty acid triglycerides, for example caprylic and capric acid triglycerides, triheptanoin and coco caprylate caprate; branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty acids, for example linoleic acid, lauric acid and / or myristic acid; branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty alcohols, for example octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol; hydrocarbons, for example vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil; dialkyl carbonates, for example dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate; dialkyl ethers, for example dicaprylyl ether; or any mixture thereof.

In the present, the concentrated base can comprise at least one, at least two, at least three, at least four emollient (s).

In the present, the emollient may be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of 15 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic formulation base, for example from 20 to 50% by weight relative the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base, from 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base.

In the present, by "emulsifier" is meant any emulsifier known to the skilled person and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be glycerol monoester or polyester, lecithin derivatives, emulsifiers resulting from the condensation of a fatty alcohol and a sugar, the family of sugar esters, fatty alcohols, acids fatty acids, amino acid derivatives, lauric acid ester derivatives, stearic acid ester derivatives, phosphoric acid ester derivatives, citric acid esters, polyethylene esters glycol, polyethylene glycol ethers, sarcosinates, wax derivatives of vegetable or animal origin or a mixture thereof.

As used herein, the term "glycerol monoester or polyester" means any glycerol monoester or polyester known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available which can be used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be glyceryl ester, glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate citrate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-6-distearate, polyglyceryl-3-beeswax, polyglyceryl-3diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10-stearate , polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, candelilla / jojoba / rice bran polyglyceryl-3-esters, polyglyceryl-3- rice branate, Polyglyceryl-3 MethylGlucose Distearate or a mixture thereof.

In the present, by lecithin derivative is meant any lecithin derivative known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. This can be, for example, hydrogenated lecithin or a mixture thereof.

In the present, by emulsifiers resulting from the condensation of a fatty alcohol and a sugar is meant any emulsifier resulting from the condensation of a fatty alcohol and a sugar known to the person skilled in the art and / or available in trade likely to be used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be an emulsifier resulting from the condensation of sorbitol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, xylitol and a fatty alcohol as described above.

As used herein, "fatty acids" means a carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain with a carbon chain of 4 to 22 carbon atoms. It may, for example, be a fatty acid chosen from the group comprising caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, acid arachidic, dodecanoic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linolelaidic acid, l α-linolenic acid, ylinolenic acid, dihomo-Y-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, clupanodonic acid or a mixture thereof.

In the present, by “sugar ester” is meant any sugar ester known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be, for example, a sorbitol ester, a glucose ester, a sucrose ester, a xylitol, a fructose such as, for example, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan stearate, coco-glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, hydroxystearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, methylglucose sesquistearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tristearate, xylityl glucoside.

In the present, by “amino acid derivative” is meant any amino acid derivative known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. These may be, for example, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sodium stearoyl glutamate or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by "derivatives of lauric acid esters" means a derivative selected from the group comprising sucrose laurate, glyceryl laurate and derivatives, sucrose dilaurate, polyglyceryl laurate and derivatives, sorbitan laurate or any mixture of these.

As used herein, the term "stearic acid ester derivative" means any stearic acid ester derivative known to those skilled in the art and / or commercially available which may be used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be a derivative of stearic acid ester chosen from the group comprising sorbitan stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, methylglucose sesquistearate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tristearate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 stearate, glycol distearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl diisostearate and their derivatives, or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by "phosphoric acid ester derivatives" is meant any phosphoric acid ester derivative known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be a derivative chosen from the group comprising potassium cetyl phosphate, C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, stearyl phosphate or any mixture of these.

In the present, by “citric acid ester” is meant any citric acid ester known to the skilled person and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may, for example, be a citric acid ester chosen from the group comprising glyceryl oleate citrate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate, glyceryl cocoate / citrate / lactate polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-3 sunflowerseedate / Citrate crosspolymer, or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by “polyethylene glycol ester” is meant any polyethylene glycol ester known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be a polyethylene glycol ester chosen from the group comprising PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax (“beeswax”) , tribehenin PEG-20 esters, or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by "polyethylene glycol ether" is meant any polyethylene glycol ether known to the skilled person and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be a polyethylene glycol ether chosen from the group comprising ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetetheth-20, steareth-20 or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by derivative of "waxes of vegetable origin" means any derivative of waxes of vegetable origin known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may for example be a derivative of waxes of vegetable origin chosen from the group comprising a jojoba wax, a carnauba wax, a rice wax, a soy wax, a candelilla wax, a wax of flowers, for example a jasmine flower wax, lavender flower wax, a fruit wax or any mixture thereof.

In the present, by “derivative of waxes of animal origin” is meant any derivative of waxes of animal origin known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It can be, for example, beeswax.

In the present, the concentrated base can comprise at least one, at least two, at least three emulsifier (s).

In the present, the emulsifier may be present in the base of cosmetic formulation at a concentration of from 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.2 to 8% by weight. relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base, for example from 0.2 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of said formulation base.

Advantageously, the emulsifier can be chosen from the group comprising at least one polyglycerol ester, a fatty alcohol, a sucroester, a lecithin or any mixture of these. It may for example be an emulsifier chosen from the group comprising polyglyceryl-3-beeswax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6-distearate, jojoba esters, sucrose laurate, sucrose stearate or any mixture of these.

Advantageously, when the emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising polyglyceryl-3-beeswax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6distearate, jojoba esters, a lecithin or any mixture thereof, it may be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration between 0.2 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base.

Advantageously, when the emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising sucrose laurate, sucrose stearate or any mixture of these. It can be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of between 2 and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base.

In the present, the concentrated base may further comprise at least one touch agent.

In the present said at least touching agent can be any touching agent known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available capable of being used in a cosmetic base. It may, for example, be a touch agent chosen from the group comprising organic fillers, for example polysaccharide powders, for example native starch powders, for example corn, rice, tapioca and / or wheat, modified starch and cellulose, acrylic polymer powders, for example poly (methyl methacrylate), polyamides and / or polyolefins, dried seaweed powders, for example Corallina officinalis powders ; inorganic fillers, for example silica, clays, perlite and / or talc, or any mixture thereof.

Advantageously, said at least one touching agent can be chosen from the group comprising corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch, silica and poly (methacrylate). methyl).

In the present, the touch agent may be present in the cosmetic formulation base at a concentration of from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base, for example from 2 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of said cosmetic formulation base.

Advantageously, the touch agent can make it possible to obtain composition textures comprising the concentrated cosmetic base adapted and / or modulated according to the cosmetic application envisaged.

In the present, the concentrated cosmetic formulation base may comprise one or more adjuvants known to a person skilled in the art. It may, for example, be one or more adjuvant (s) chosen from agents of amphoteric surfactant type, hydrating agents, emollient agents, silicone compounds, perfumes, preservatives, ceramides, and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, proteins, sequestering agents, alkalizing agents, acidifying agents, reducing agents, antioxidants, dyes or any other adjuvant, preferably with the exception of surfactants .

The concentrated cosmetic formulation base according to the invention can be used as a cosmetic composition base.

The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a concentrated base of cosmetic formulation according to the invention.

In the present, the cosmetic composition comprising a concentrated base according to the invention can be obtained by cold mixing / dilution of the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation with at least one solution.

In the present, the mixing step can be carried out with stirring, for example with manual stirring, with mechanical stirring with laboratory, pilot or industrial tools.

In the present, the mixing step can be carried out cold, for example without heating the concentrated cosmetic base and / or the solution. For example, the mixing step can be carried out at a temperature from 5 to 40 ° C, from 20 to 30 ° C.

In the present, the solution can be any solution known to a person skilled in the art and / or commercially available which can be mixed with a cosmetic base. It can be for example an aqueous solution, an oily solution, an aqueous-alcoholic solution, a hydroglycerine solution. It can also be a thick solution, for example a solution in the form of puree, for example a vegetable puree, for example flowers, fruits. It can be, for example, a solution in powder form, for example a plant extract in powder form. It can also be a solution in the form of an emulsion, for example an oil-in-water emulsion comprising for example at least one cosmetic active agent, for example caffeine. It can also be for example water, solvent comprising at least one cosmetic active agent and / or extract comprising at least one cosmetic active agent, whatever its form. It may for example be any solution suitable for its incorporation in a cosmetic product. It may for example be an essential oil, an alcoholic extract, an aqueous extract, an oily extract of plants, a vegetable puree, an aqueous composition comprising at least one cosmetic active , an oily composition comprising at least one cosmetic active agent, an alcoholic composition comprising at least one cosmetic active agent, a composition in emulsified or pulverulent form.

In the present, the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation may be present in the cosmetic composition obtained at a concentration of 20 to 80% by weight, for example from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition.

In the present, by cosmetic active means any cosmetic active known to the skilled person and / or commercially available. It can for example be a cosmetic skin and / or hair active. It may, for example, be a cosmetic active agent obtained by chemical synthesis, for example ascorbyl glucoside, a natural cosmetic active agent, for example an extract of plant origin, for example from any part of plants, plants whole, flowers, fruit, an extract of animal origin, for example honey and / or an extract from a biotechnological process. It may for example be a cosmetic active agent chosen from an anti-aging agent, a hydrating agent, a soothing agent, an agent acting on the microcirculation, a firming agent, a slimming active agent, a tightening agent, a lightening agent. , a whitening agent, a sunscreen, a detergent cosmetic active, a deodorant active, a make-up or touch active, a hair dye or a mixture of these agents. These agents can be those commonly used in cosmetic and / or dermatological products. Examples of usable anti-aging agents can be, for example, silicon or vitamin C. Examples of usable moisturizing agents can be, for example, glycerin, hyaluronic acid or D-Panthenol. Examples of soothing agents which can be used can be, for example, bisabolol or allantoin. Examples of agents acting on the microcirculation can be for example escin. Examples of firming agents can be for example a derivative of silicon, caffeine, tightening agents for example almond proteins. Examples of whitening agents can be, for example, tyrosinase inhibitors, melanin inhibitors, it can be, for example, vitamin C, plant extracts, for example extracts of flowers, roots, for example extracts of meadowsweet flowers, for example of Spirae ulmaria, extracts of mulberry roots, for example of Morus alba. Examples of slimming active agents can be, for example, caffeine, an almond extract.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a concentration by weight of cosmetic active principle from 0.001 to 70%, for example from 5 to 50%, from 10 to 30% by weight of cosmetic active agents relative to the total weight of the composition cosmetic.

In the present, the ratio between the cosmetic base and the cosmetic active agents present in the cosmetic composition can be comprised from 0.2 to 9, for example from 0.4 to 3.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a base for a concentrated cosmetic formulation according to the invention, and one or more active principle (s).

In the present, by cosmetic composition is meant any cosmetic composition known to a person skilled in the art. It can for example be a topical composition, a hair composition. The cosmetic or dermatological composition may be, for example a composition for caring for the face, the body, the hair, for example compositions for the face and / or the body and / or the hair.

Advantageously, the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation and / or the cosmetic composition comprising the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation according to the invention has a stability and a viscosity suitable for any cosmetic use.

Advantageously, the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation can be a stable and homogeneous concentrated emulsion not comprising or a low water content, in particular a water content much lower than the bases of known formulations. In addition, the inventors have surprisingly demonstrated that the formulation base according to the invention is a “ready-to-use” base which can advantageously be diluted / mixed with a solution for the formation of a cosmetic composition, for example by simple mixing, for example "by hand" or with a mechanical stirrer.

The inventors have demonstrated that the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation can be advantageously preserved over time without deterioration of its physicochemical and / or microbiological properties.

In addition, the inventors have advantageously demonstrated that the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation can make it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions just before marketing and / or to obtain cosmetic compositions "at home" by simple mixing by the consumer. Also, the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation advantageously makes it possible to obtain “fresh” and / or “instant” cosmetic compositions whatever the shelf life of the base.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition comprising a concentrated base of cosmetic formulation according to the invention

In the present, the use can be implemented by applying the composition to the skin or the integuments.

It can be, for example a simple application on the skin or the integuments or an application accompanied by a massage or else an application in thick layers with an exposure time, for example from 1 to 10 minutes before penetration or rinsing.

The application is preferably carried out with a sufficient amount of the composition so that the entire surface of the skin or integuments to be treated is treated. It can be for example a classic application, It can be for example a classic application, such as a cream on the skin. It can for example also be an application to form a treating mask.

The application can be any application desired by the user, for example a daily, twice-daily, weekly and / or bi-monthly application. This can be an application once a week, twice a week, three times a week or more, once a day, twice a day or more.

Other advantages may still appear to a person skilled in the art on reading the examples below illustrated by the appended figures, given by way of illustration.

Brief description of the figures

- Figure 1 is a microscope photograph (Leica model ICCS50) under x10 magnification of an example of concentrated cosmetic base according to the invention

- Figure 2 is a microscope photograph (Leica model ICCS50) under x10 magnification of an example of a cosmetic composition obtained by mixing the concentrated cosmetic base with a cosmetic composition containing active ingredients according to the invention

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Examples of a concentrated cosmetic formulation base

The compositions were prepared according to the following method using for the mixing steps: Rayneri / deflocculator, as containing a 600 ml beaker for making 400 g of product, a hot plate, spatulas, maryses and a balance.

The ingredients used for the manufacture of concentrated bases of cosmetic formulations are described in Tables 1 and 2 below.

Table 1: ingredients for the manufacture of a concentrated base 1 of cosmetic formulations

PHASES INGREDIENTS Base 1 (Percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) AT Water 29.15 Propylene glycol 26.6 Glycerin 10 B Acrylate gelling agent 1.5 VS Emollients 20 Emulsifying wax 6.7 D Silica 3.35 tocopherol 0.2 Anti pollution active 0.2 PH adjuster 0.6 Bamboo powder 1.7

Manufacturing process for a concentrated base 1 of cosmetic formulations:

The raw materials of phase A were weighed using the balance and heated to 75 ° C using the Rayneri / Deflocculator and the hot plate.

The ingredient from phase B was introduced into phase A and heated until dispersed.

The ingredients of phase C were weighed using the balance and heated to 75 ° C (beaker / hot plate).

When the temperatures of phases A and B were reached, phase C was added to phase A with stirring with a Rayneri in order to produce an emulsion and the stirring speed was gradually increased to 3000 rpm. the mixture was left emulsified at this speed for 3 minutes and then the stirring speed decreased to 800 rpm. The whole was cooled to a stirring speed of 800 rpm. Once the temperature of 45 ° C was reached, the ingredients of phase D were added and the stirring speed was increased to 1500 rpm for 3 min. The whole was left cooled to 30 ° C at 800 rpm.

Table 2: ingredients for the manufacture of a concentrated base 2 of cosmetic formulations

Phases INGREDIENTS Base 2 (Percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) AT Water 0 Glycerin 38.6 Lecithin 0.24 Acrylate gelling agent 1 0.96 B Butylene glycol 37 VS Emollient 20 Antioxidants 0.2 Acrylate 2 gelling agent 3

Method for manufacturing a concentrated base 2 of cosmetic formulations:

The raw materials from phase A were weighed using the balance. The mixture is stirred for 20 min at 1000 rpm using a Rayneri / Deflocculator. The glycol of phase B was then added and then slowly the emollient of phase C. The stirring speed was gradually increased at 1500 rpm for 3 min. Finally, the phase D acrylate active agent and gelling agent was added.

The bases obtained were stable and homogeneous.

Example 2 Examples of cosmetic compositions comprising a concentrated base of cosmetic formulation

In this example, two cosmetic compositions comprising a concentrated base of cosmetic formulation were prepared from bases No. 1 or No. 2 described in Example 1 above.

Method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition n ° 1 of cosmetic formulations:

The concentrated base No. 1 in Table 1 was diluted with another composition comprising active ingredients.

The concentrated base No. 1 of Table 1 and the composition comprising the active ingredients were weighed separately. The composition comprising the active ingredients was introduced into the concentrated base No. 1 of Table 1, in particular 70 g of composition comprising the active ingredients was introduced into 30 g of concentrated base.

The two phases were stirred at room temperature with a Rayneri in order to produce an emulsion and the stirring speed was gradually increased to 3000 rpm. The stirring speed was maintained for 3 minutes at 3000 rpm and then the stirring speed decreased to 800 rpm.

Method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition No. 2 of cosmetic formulations:

The base of concentrate 2 in Table 2 as well as the floral water were weighed separately and then mixed in a beaker by hand using a spatula so as to produce an emulsion "of the house-made by hand" type. In particular, 60 g of floral water was introduced into 40 g of concentrated base.

The cosmetic compositions obtained are described in table 3 below:

Table 3: cosmetic compositions

Cosmetic composition n ° 1 Cosmetic composition N ° 2

INGREDIENTS Percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Water 64.86 / Glycol 8 14.8 Glycerin 8 15.44 Lecithin / 0.096 Acrylate gelling agent 1 0.91 0.384 Xanthan gum 0.21 / Emollients 6 8 Emulsifying wax 2 / Acrylate 2 gelling agent / 1.2 silica 2 / Flower water / 60 Anti-pollution active 0.06 / Whitening active ingredients 2.1 / Vitamin C 1.4 / Perfume 0.2 / Tocopherol 0.06 0.08 PH adjuster 0.2 / Mother of pearl 3.5 / Bamboo powder 0.5 /

As demonstrated, the concentrated base advantageously makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions with a large amount of a solution comprising cosmetic active agents. In addition, the composition 5 obtained was stable and had a viscosity of cream or fluid allowing it to be packaged in standard cosmetic packaging.

In addition, the dilution of the concentrated base by increasing concentrations in solution comprising at least one cosmetic active agent implies a low initial water content of the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation. Also, an evaluation of the physicochemical and microbiological stability was carried out.

To do this, a measurement of the Aw representing the availability of water in an environment was carried out. The measurement of Aw takes into account the physicochemical interactions between water and the other constituents of the medium. The measurement of Aw of a product is done by measuring the relative humidity of the air in equilibrium with this product. Relative humidity RH is measured in% according to the following formula

HR = (w / in) x 100 Aw = HR / 100 with p = partial pressure of water in the area and po = partial pressure of water in air saturated with water.

The measurement of the Aw was carried out with an Awmeter of the Novasina brand and of the Labtouch model.

An evaluation of the stability of the concentrated base was carried out according to the following protocol: each base was packaged in 5 pill boxes of 50 ml which were stored at 4 different temperatures, namely 4 ° C., ambient temperature: 20 ° C., at 40 ° C, and 50 ° C. The stability of the product stored at 4 ° C, ambient temperature: 20 ° C and at 40 ° C, was evaluated for 3 months. That of bases stored at 50 ° C. was evaluated for 1 month. A check of the pill organizers stored at 50 ° C was carried out every week over the month. A check of the pill organizers stored at 4 ° C, 20 ° C and 40 ° C was carried out weekly for one month and then every 15 days up to 3 months of stability.

The results are presented in Table 4 below:

Concentrated base Base n ° 1 Base N ° 2 Water content (% by weight relative to the total weight) 29 0 Aw of the concentrated base 0.76 0.052 Concentrated base aging results RAS RAS

As demonstrated above, the concentrated bases are stable both at the microbiological and physicochemical level. In addition, these concentrated bases make it possible to obtain stable cosmetic compositions 5 comprising a large quantity of cosmetic active agents.

Table 5 summarizes the characteristics of a cosmetic composition obtained from the concentrated base 1 of Example 1 above.

Table 5: Cosmetic composition

INGREDIENTS Percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Water 64.86 Propylene glycol 8 Glycerin 8 Emulsifying wax 2 Emollients 6 Acrylating gelling agents 0.91 Xanthan gum 0.21 silica 2 Antipollution active 0.06 Whitening active ingredients 2.1 Vitamin C 1.4 Perfume 0.2 Antioxidant 0.06 PH adjuster 0.2 Mother of pearl 3.5 Bamboo powder 0.5

An evaluation of the concentrated formulation base used, namely the concentrated formulation base described in Table 1 and of the cosmetic composition obtained, namely the cosmetic composition described in Table 5, was carried out by microscopic photography (Leica model ICCS50) under x10 magnification. To do this, a point of cream was deposited and put under a slide.

As shown in Figure 1, the concentrated base described in Table 1 obtained a fine and homogeneous microscopy.

As demonstrated in Figure 2, the cosmetic composition described in the table showed a dense and homogeneous microscopic result.

The results obtained clearly demonstrate the obtaining of a stable composition with high dilution factors, for example 30/70 dilution, from a concentrated base example according to the invention.

As demonstrated above, the concentrated formulation base is stable over time both at the physico-chemical and microbiological level. In particular, the inventors have clearly demonstrated that the base according to the invention comprising a low water content, advantageously less than or equal to a value of Aw of 0.76, is stable over time both at the physicochemical and microbiological level.

In addition, the concentrated formulation base advantageously makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions which are stable in use and homogeneous by simple mixing at room temperature, for example 20 ° C., of the base with a solution comprising at least one cosmetic active.

Also, the concentrated cosmetic formulation base advantageously makes it possible to obtain cosmetic composition by "simple" dilution of said base and to obtain "fresh" or "homemade" cosmetic cream.

In addition, as demonstrated above, the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation may be microbiologically stable and may not require the presence of a preservative. In particular, the inventors have clearly demonstrated that the base according to the invention comprising a low water content, advantageously less than or equal to a value of Aw of 0.76, is stable over time and does not require the presence of a preservative. Also, the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation advantageously makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions without preservative while retaining high microbial stability due in particular to its low Aw.

The absence of a preservative in cosmetic products advantageously makes it possible to reduce any skin intolerance phenomena while having a storage time similar to cosmetic compositions comprising preservatives.

In addition, due to the physicochemical and microbiological stability of the concentrated formulation base, it can advantageously be preserved and stored without alteration.

In addition, the concentrated formulation base makes it possible, depending on the amount of solution added / mixed, to obtain cosmetic compositions with different textures and / or sensorialities and always suitable for cosmetic use.

Finally, the absence of heating during the mixing of the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation advantageously allows the conservation of heat-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients in the cosmetic composition obtained. In other words, the concentrated base of cosmetic formulation makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions without degradation of cosmetic active agents, in particular heat-sensitive.

Claims (15)

Claims 1. Concentrated cosmetic formulation base comprising: a glycolized phase comprising from 15 to 80% by weight of glycol, from 0 to 50% by weight of water, and from 0.2 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent relative to the total weight of the base formulation, an oily phase comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of at least one emollient, from 0.2 to 10% by weight of at least one emulsifier relative to the total weight of the formulation base. 2. Concentrated base according to claim 1, in which the glycolized phase comprising from 15 to 80% by weight of mixture of glycol and of polyol. 3. Concentrated base according to claim 2 in which the polyol is glycerin. 4. Concentrated base according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which said at least one gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising silicates, celluloses, acrylates, algae derivatives, vegetable gums, pectins, starch derivatives, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, a gum of natural origin or a mixture of these. 5. Concentrated base according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least one gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite, sodium magnesium silicate, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose , xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, acrylates / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / Cio-3o alkyl acrylate, sodium polyacrylate starch, hydroxyethyl 33 acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomers, locust bean gum, guar gum, tara gum, Senegal acacia gum, pectins, carrageenans, agar, sodium carboxymethyl natural gum starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate or a mixture thereof. 6. Concentrated base according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said at least one emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising glycerol monoester or polyester, lecithin derivatives, emulsifiers resulting from the condensation of a fatty alcohol and of a sugar chosen from the group comprising sorbitol, glucose, sucrose, sorbitol esters, glucose esters, sucrose esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, amino acid derivatives, derivatives of esters of lauric acid, derivatives of stearic acid esters, derivatives of phosphoric acid esters, citric acid esters, polyethylene glycol esters, polyethylene glycol ethers, sarcosinates, derivatives waxes of vegetable or animal origin. 7. Concentrated base according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the emollient is chosen from the group comprising vegetable oils, vegetable butters, esters of synthetic origin or of vegetable origin or a mixture of those -this. 8. Concentrated base according to any one of claims 2 to 7, in which the glycol is chosen from the group comprising propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propanediol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, isopentyldiol, propane- 1,3-diol, butane-1,4-diol, pentane-1,5-diol, hexane-1,6-diol, octane-1,8-diol, butane-1,2 -diol, butane-2,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, pentane-1,2-diol,, 2-methylpentane2,4-diol or any mixture thereof 9. Concentrated base according to any one of the preceding claims, said base being an emulsion. 10. Concentrated base according to any one of the preceding claims, the pH of said base being from 4 to 10. 11. Cosmetic composition comprising a concentrated base according to any one of claims 1 to 10. 12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11, in which the cosmetic formulation base is present in the cosmetic composition at a concentration of 20 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11 or 12, in which the composition comprises from 20 to 70% by weight of cosmetic active agents relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, in which the ratio between the cosmetic base and the cosmetic active agents is between 0.2 and 9. 15. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 11 to 14. 1/1 Φ © Ο © SMIIm