FR2939037A1 - Topical or oral cosmetic use of combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine, to prevent and/or treat soft, brittle, dull, refined and curly-hair, and improve softness and volume of the hair and its shine, in men - Google Patents

Abstract

Topical or oral cosmetic use of combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine, to prevent and/or treat soft, brittle, dull, refined and curly-hair, and improve softness and strength of the fiber and the volume of the hair and its shine, in men, is claimed. An independent claim is included for a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising, as single amino acids, a combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine. ACTIVITY : Anabolic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of hair care. More particularly, it aims to provide a useful combination to fight against the aging of keratin fibers and more particularly hair, and more generally to protect the hair in humans.

The hair is produced in hair follicles consisting of epithelial sheaths of epidermal origin and a hair bulb containing bulbar keratinocytes in a state of permanent division during the growth phases of the hair. The hair consists mainly of 85-90% protein. Having healthy and vigorous hair throughout life is sought after by most men. Very many cosmetic compositions containing amino acids, in particular glutamine, arginine and cystine or peptides and / or taurine exist for the care of the scalp. By way of example, EP 1 515 712 discloses the use of taurine and / or hypotaurine and / or their acceptable salts in an oral composition, for the preparation of an oral composition useful in the treatment and preventing the aging of the pilosebaceous unit and / or alopecia. In addition, WO 99/62462 discloses a composition for topical application to the hair, for the treatment or prevention of their alteration comprising (i) cholesterol and (ii) a hair benefit agent based on a mixture of an amino acid and a fatty acid, more particularly L-arginine and oleic acid. WO 2007/068400 describes for its part a composition for the hair which comprises a mixture of sugar, an aliphatic amino acid and a basic amino acid. These compositions are more particularly intended for the treatment of dry, damaged hair and / or demonstrating difficulties of handling. On the other hand, to date there is no composition specifically adapted to the prevention of the deterioration of the quality of the hair, appearing in particular with age, in humans, more particularly due to a specific deficiency of the hair follicle. amino acids, peptides or peptide derivatives. The present invention aims precisely to meet this need by proposing a combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine.

The inventors have indeed found that such a combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine proves to be particularly effective in a state of deficiency in humans, correlated with capillary aging, and / or an alteration of the quality of the hair, especially appearing with age, as shown in particular in Example 1 below. The main subject of the invention is the cosmetic use, orally and / or topically, of a combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine for preventing and / or treating soft, brittle, dull, refined hair. the forks, to improve the softness and the vigor of the fiber, the volume of the hair and its brilliance, in the man.

The invention furthermore relates to a cosmetic composition containing, as sole amino active agents, a combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of hair in humans, intended to improve the quality of the hair and / or the hair fibers, characterized in that it comprises at least the oral administration or the topical application of an association according to the invention, optionally with, in addition, the amino acids, peptides or derivatives of related peptides as defined below. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of hair fibers and more particularly the hair in humans, intended to prevent and / or slow their aging, characterized in that it comprises at least oral administration or the topical application of an association according to the invention. In particular, the use and / or the cosmetic treatment method makes it possible to protect aged hair. In particular, the use and / or the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention makes it possible to prevent and / or limit the formation of fine and / or dull and / or brittle and / or soft hair. The use and / or the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the quality of the keratin fibers, in particular by promoting the growth of shiny and / or thick and / or vigorous hair. The invention finally relates to a food supplement or a functional food comprising a part of the compounds forming the combination according to the invention in a first composition and at least the other part of the compounds forming the combination in a second composition, as a kit. or combination product for simultaneous, separate or spread use over time. By the man, is meant in the context of the present invention, relating to a male population.

Chronological aging is a natural phenomenon that occurs gradually and more or less early depending on the individual. The manifestations of aging on the hair can however be accelerated by endogenous factors, stress, diseases ..., or exogenous such as pollution, UV exposure ... The alterations of the quality of the hair, in particular appearing with the age, consist in particular of a change of appearance of the fiber: fine hair, dull, without holding (soft), without brilliance, graying. The invention results in particular from the observation by the inventors of a significant modification of the amminogram or the capillary profile of amino acids, peptides or peptide derivatives of the hair follicle of an elderly man. a young man. As can be seen from the examples presented below, certain amino acids are interesting markers for detecting or diagnosing the risk of the appearance of an impairment of the quality of the hair in humans. It is understood in the context of the present invention that the oral and / or topical cosmetic use covers the use of products administered orally and / or topically, these products being for example in the form of a dietary supplement or a dietary supplement. functional element as explained below for the case of the oral route, producing an effect on the level of the hair, in terms of aesthetics and comfort, or for beauty purposes, for example in order to protect it, to maintain it in good condition, to change the appearance, including embellish.

Similarly, within the meaning of the present invention, a cosmetic composition designates a composition that is capable of producing an effect on the level of the hair from the point of view of aesthetics and comfort, or else with regard to beauty, namely in the context of the present invention. to maintain it in good condition, and more particularly to prevent and / or fight against the deterioration of the quality of the hair but still improve the quality of the hair and / or hair fibers. It can be in the form of a nutritional product. The compositions according to the present invention may also be intended for the treatment of domestic animals, especially pets such as dogs and cats. Thus, these compositions may find their utility in the treatment and / or prevention of the deterioration of the quality of the hair, in particular appearing with age, and may also be administered orally or applied topically.

Glycine, serine, valine and threonine are free natural amino acids. According to a particular embodiment, the combination of active agents according to the present invention represents the only active substance of the composition according to the invention. According to a particular embodiment, glycine, serine, valine and threonine are used in amounts such that the amount of glycine is greater than that of serine, the latter being greater than the amount of valine. which is itself greater than the amount of threonine. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between serine and glycine is between 0.5 and 1.6, in particular between 0.7 and 1.5, and more particularly between 0.8 and 1. 1. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between valine and glycine is between 0.1 and 0.9, in particular between 0.3 and 0.7, and more particularly between 0.4 and 0.7. 0.6. According to yet another particular embodiment of the invention the mass ratio between threonine and glycine is between 0.1 and 0.8, in particular between 0.2 and 0.7, and more particularly between 0, 3 and 0.5. The amino acids may be in their D or L form, preferably in L form. The constituent amino acids of the active may be in the form of a protein hydrolyzate or a combination of several protein hydrolysates or can still be obtained by biotechnological processes. According to one particular embodiment, the amino acids constituting the active substance are in the form of a protein hydrolyzate or a combination of several protein hydrolysates or are obtained by biotechnological methods and are present in the mass ratios. supra.

Among the protein hydrolysates that may be used in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned hydrolyzate of whey, casein, soy, gluten, barley and almond. Thus, such hydrolysates can be mixed so as to obtain the desired mass ratios of amino acids essential to the practice of the present invention. Processes for obtaining such hydrolysates useful in the cosmetic field are known to those skilled in the art. According to one embodiment, it is possible, for example, to use a protein hydrolyzate as described in the method for obtaining almond proteins in 25% stabilized water supplied by Cognis. As a process for obtaining such protein hydrolysates, mention may be made of enzymatic hydrolysis. In such a process, the protein substrates are brought into contact with enzymes such as papain, pepsin, trypsin of animal, plant or microorganism origin. Such hydrolysates may also be enriched in one or more subsequent and / or associated steps. The composition according to the invention can be adapted to any mode of administration. According to one embodiment of the invention, the combination may be carried out with at least one of the amino acids chosen from the group consisting of arginine, citrulline, histidine and leucine. According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises the combination of active agents according to the present invention and the optional optional amino acids mentioned above, at least one of the two amino acids asparagine and isoleucine, even these two amino acids. According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises the combination of active agents according to the present invention and all the optional optional amino acids mentioned above, methionine. While remaining within the scope of the present invention, certain non-essential amino acids may be replaced by essential amino acids. Thus, citrulline present may be replaced by arginine.

In the context of the present invention, all the above-mentioned optional amino acids are named amino acids, peptides or derivatives of related peptides. These amino acids, peptides or derivatives of related peptides are listed above in order of preference.

In other words, the use according to the present invention can implement said combination with for example additionally 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7 of the amino acids mentioned above, advantageously in the aforementioned order. By way of illustration, a composition that is suitable for the present invention may comprise glycine, serine, valine and threonine as well as optionally: at least one of the amino acids chosen from arginine, citrulline, histidine and leucine, and - optionally at least one of the two amino acids, asparagine and isoleucine, and - optionally methionine.

According to one variant, the mass ratios between arginine and glycine, citrulline and glycine, histidine and glycine, leucine and glycine are independently between 0.07 and 0.7, in particular between 0, 1 and 0.5, and more particularly between 0.2 and 0.4. Still according to a variant, the mass ratios between asparagine and glycine and between isoleucine and glycine are independently between 0.07 and 0.4, in particular between 0.1 and 0.3, and more particularly between 0.15 and 0.25. According to another variant, the mass ratio between methionine and glycine is between 0.05 and 0.3, in particular between 0.07 and 0.2, and more particularly between 0.09 and 0.15.

According to a variant of this embodiment, such a composition comprises the combination of amino acids, as well as all the amino acids mentioned above. In the case where additional amino acids are included in the composition under consideration, a total supplementation may also be targeted. In other words, such a composition can make it possible to remedy a state of deficiency in amino acids, peptides or peptide derivatives, overall by means of a relative strengthening of the content of the combination of the four main amino acids which comply according to the present invention, with respect to the amino acid, or derivative of peptide predominant in the capillary profile in amino acids, peptides or derivatives of peptides, namely taurine. Still according to this variant, the mass ratios between the amino acids, peptides or peptide derivatives, whether they are main or additional, may be related to the taurine content. The mass ratios reported below should be understood as being considered separately or simultaneously. Thus, according to this variant, the mass ratio between glutamic acid and taurine is between 0.4 and 0.8, preferably between 0.5 and 0.7; the mass ratios between glutamine and glutathione reduced, taken independently, and taurine, are between 0.2 and 0.6, preferably between 0.3 and 0.5; the mass ratios between aspartic acid and alanine, taken independently, and taurine are between 0.1 and 0.5, preferably between 0.2 and 0.4. With regard to the reinforced mass ratios of the active ingredients of the combination according to the invention, the mass ratio between glycine and taurine is greater than 0.4; the mass ratio between serine and taurine is greater than 0.3, the mass ratio between valine and threonine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.2; the mass ratios between arginine, citrulline, histidine, leucine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.1; the mass ratios between asparagine and isoleucine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.06 and / or the mass ratio between methionine and taurine is greater than 0.002. Still according to this variant, a composition according to the present invention may comprise from 1 to 5% by weight of taurine, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition according to the present invention, characterized in that it further contains taurine, glutamic acid, glutamine, reduced glutathione, and optionally aspartic acid and alanine, and possibly also arginine, citrulline, histidine, leucine, asparagine, isoleucine and methionine, and in that the ratio of mass between glutamic acid and taurine is between 0.4 and 0.8, preferably between 0.5 and 0.7; the mass ratios between glutamine and glutathione reduced, taken independently, and taurine, are between 0.2 and 0.6, preferably between 0.3 and 0.5; the mass ratios between aspartic acid and alanine, taken independently, and taurine are between 0.1 and 0.5, preferably between 0.2 and 0.4, the mass ratio between glycine and taurine is greater than 0.4; the mass ratio between serine and taurine is greater than 0.3; the mass ratios between valine and threonine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.2; the mass ratios between arginine, citrulline, histidine, leucine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.1; the mass ratios between asparagine and isoleucine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.06 and / or the mass ratio between methionine and taurine is greater than 0.002. Taurine is an amino acid derivative also known as 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. Glutathione is a tripeptide of glutamic acid, cysteine and glycine. By the thiol function of the cysteine radical, glutathione can exist in a reduced form, it is called reduced glutathione. In addition, certain amino acid derivatives may be replaced by their analogues or precursors. Thus, reduced glutathione can be replaced by its antioxidant analogues or precursors. In such a case, the mass contents are calculated in reduced glutathione equivalent. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one of the compounds chosen from polyphenols, fatty acids and vitamins such as vitamins B1, B3, B5, B6, B8 and B12. , C, D or PP, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, in particular ester such as acetate or tocopherol palmitate, zinc or its salts, selenium, niacin, a carotenoid such as carotene, lycopene, zeaxanthin and lutein, polyunsaturated fatty acids, gelatin and seborrhea regulators.

According to one particular embodiment, these active agents may be chosen from those making it possible to improve the appearance of the hair, in particular, it is possible to use vitamin B6, cysteine, vitamin B1 (biotin), vitamin B12 (bépanthène) ) and gelatin. The oral compositions may further comprise an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, in particular a carotenoid chosen from (3-carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein), flavonoids such as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins, especially in the form of blackcurrant seed oil and antocyanines Oral compositions may further comprise at least one probiotic, a prebiotic or a mixture of probiotics and a mixture of prebiotics As probiotic microorganisms, particular mention may be made of Lactobacillus johnsonii or Lactobacillus paracasei The compositions in accordance with the present invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally used depending on the mode of administration in question.They may be administered orally, Topical or even by microinjection in association or not with an experimental apparatus appendix, able to generate for example infra-red radiation or ultrasound. In the case of the oral route, a composition according to the present invention can be implemented in a formulation of the food supplement or functional food type. The combination of active agents according to the present invention can in particular be administered orally, at a content of 30 to 300 mg / day, in particular from 50 to 200 mg / day, still more particularly from 80 to 300 mg / day. 180 mg / day and especially between 120 and 170 mg / day glycine. The compositions intended for oral administration may in particular comprise all or only part of the daily dose. In other words, one to three compositions may be administered per day. For example, an oral composition according to the present invention may contain from 10 to 300 mg of glycine, especially from 20 to 200 mg, in particular from 30 to 170 mg. By way of example, in the case where two daily compositions are administered, the oral composition may contain from 15 to 150 mg of glycine, in particular from 25 to 100 mg, in particular from 40 to 60 mg. Typically, the duration of this cosmetic treatment may be greater than 4 weeks, in particular from 4 to 15 weeks, with, where appropriate, one or more periods of interruption. Thus, the present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of human hair, intended to improve the quality of the hair and / or hair fibers in humans, characterized in that it comprises at least the oral administration of an association according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a food supplement or a functional food, comprising an effective amount of at least one combination of active agents according to the present invention, especially in the contents specified above. This treatment method has the characteristics of a cosmetic process insofar as it makes it possible to improve the aesthetics of the hair, in particular by combating the deterioration of the quality of the hair appearing in particular with age. In addition, it can be used daily for several months, without a medical prescription. More specifically, the subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic care of the hair in humans, with a view to improving their state and / or their appearance, characterized in that it consists in administering orally an association according to the invention or a composition containing it, in particular in the form of a food supplement or a functional food, in particular with the active agents forming the combination in the contents specified above, and optionally in combination with amino acids, peptides or derivatives of ancillary peptides as defined above. Such a composition of the dietary supplement type may especially be in the form of soft capsules or capsules, bandaged capsules, gels, dry or liquid emulsions, tablets, dilutable powders or drinkable ampoules or any other form. known to those skilled in the art.

The composition may optionally contain suitable formulation excipients such as dye, sweetener, bulking agent, binder, preservative, etc. According to a preferred embodiment, the active ingredients can be incorporated in food matrices in order to produce functional foods such as food bars, fortified foods such as oils, margarines, compacted powders, fibers or even under the emulsion form in drinks. The composition may further contain compounds such as antioxidants, vitamins, minerals permitted in Europe in food supplements as described in EC Directive 2002/46. The food supplement according to the present invention may comprise a part of the active agents forming the combination according to the invention in a first composition and the other part of these active ingredients in a second composition, as a kit or combination product for simultaneous use, separated or spread over time.

This complement may be formulated in such a way that the two compositions are in the same forms or in different forms, for example chosen from those mentioned above. Such a kit may in particular be presented in one and the same package. In the case of the topical route, the glycine content may be between 2 and 12% by weight of the composition, in particular between 5 and 10% by weight, and even more particularly between 6 and 8% by weight relative to total weight of the composition. For topical application to the hair, the composition in accordance with the invention may have the form of an aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic or oily solution or suspension, of an emulsion or dispersion of more or less fluid consistency and in particular liquid or semi-fluid liquid, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), of a dispersion or solid emulsion (O / W) or (W / O), of a aqueous gel, hydroalcoholic or oily fluid more or less fluid or solid, a free or compacted powder for use as such or to incorporate in a physiologically acceptable medium, or microcapsules or microparticles, vesicular dispersions ionic type and / or nonionic. It is also possible to envisage a composition in the form of a foam or in the form of a spray or an aerosol then comprising a propellant under pressure. The composition may be in the form of a lotion, serum, milk, O / W cream or W / O, gel, ointment, ointment, powder, balm, patch, soaked pad, soap, bread or mousse. In particular, the composition for application to the hair may be in the form of a hair care lotion, for example a daily or bi-weekly application, a shampoo or a hair conditioner, in particular a hair conditioner. bi-weekly or weekly application, a liquid soap or solid daily application scalp cleansing, a product shaping the hairstyle (lacquer, product for setting the hair, styling gel), a hair mask treatment, a cream or a foaming hair washing gel. It can still be in the form of hair dye or mascara to be applied by brush or comb. According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair cream or lotion, a shampoo or a hair conditioner or a hair mascara.

The amounts of the various constituents of the physiological medium of the composition according to the invention are those generally used in the fields under consideration. In addition, these compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 2% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase is adjusted as a function of the content of the fatty phase and of the compound (s) (I) as well as that of any additional ingredients, to obtain 100% by weight. In practice, the aqueous phase represents from 5% to 99.9% by weight. The fatty phase may contain fatty or oily compounds, which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), generally called oils. These oils may or may not be compatible with each other and form a macroscopically homogeneous liquid fatty phase or a bi- or tri-phasic system. In addition to these oils, the fatty phase may contain waxes, gums, lipophilic polymers, pasty or viscous products containing solid parts and liquid parts. The aqueous phase contains water and optionally a miscible ingredient in all proportion to water, such as lower alcohols in C1 to c, such as ethanol, isopropanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, glycerol sorbitol or acetone or ether.

The emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used to obtain a composition in emulsion form are those generally used in the cosmetics field. Their nature is, moreover, a function of the meaning of the emulsion. In practice, the emulsifier and optionally the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1% to 8% by weight. . The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles and in particular liposomes. When the composition is in the form of an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition is an aqueous, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic solution or suspension and better a water / ethanol solution or suspension. The alcoholic fraction can represent from 5% to 99.9% and better still from 8% to 80%.

For a mascara application, the composition is in particular a wax-in-water or wax-in-oil dispersion, a gelled oil, an aqueous gel. It can be pigmented or not. The composition of the invention may comprise, in addition, other ingredients usually used in the relevant fields, chosen from solvents, thickeners or gelling agents of aqueous phase or oily phase, the dyestuffs soluble in the medium of the composition , solid particles of the fillers or pigments type, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, electrolytes, neutralizers, UV blocking agents such as sunscreens, film-forming polymers, cosmetic active agents with beneficial action for the skin or keratinous fibers, other than the compounds of formula (I) or (II) (such as vitamins), and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the amounts generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological field and in particular in a proportion of from 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 20% and for example from 0 to , 1 to 10%. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles and in particular liposomes. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged. As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of C 2 to C 8 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol and certain light cosmetic oils, such as C 6 to C 16 alkanes.

As oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of oils of mineral origin (vaseline oil, hydrogenated isoparaffin), oils of plant origin (liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soya oil). alcohol or fatty acid), oils of animal origin (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils (fatty acid esters, Purcellin oil), silicone oils (linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethicones) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers) ). As waxes, mention may be made of silicone waxes, beeswax, candelilla wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, paraffin wax or polyethylene wax.

As emulsifiers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate or laurate, sorbitol stearates or oleates, alkyl dimethiconecopolyol (with alkyl 8) and their mixtures for an W / O emulsion. It is also possible to use polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol stearate or oleate, dimethiconecopolyols and their mixtures for an O / W emulsion. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums and clays, and as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as Bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates, hydrophobic treated silica, ethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. As a cosmetic active agent other than the combination of active agents according to the invention, a composition may contain an additional hydrophilic active agent chosen from polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, plant extracts (those of Iridaceae or soya) and hydroxy acids (fruit acid, salicylic acid); and / or an additional lipophilic active agent chosen from retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives in particular ester (retinol palmitate), essential fatty acids, ceramides, essential oils, salicylic acid derivatives such as n-octanoyl Salicylic acid esters, hydroxy acid esters, phospholipids such as lecithin, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, one can associate with the combination of assets according to the invention, at least one additional compound promoting regrowth and / or limiting hair loss. These additional compounds are chosen in particular from the lipoxygenase inhibitors as described in EP 0 648 488, the inhibitors of bradykinin described in particular in EP 0 845 700, the prostaglandins and their derivatives, in particular those described in WO 98/33497, WO 95/11003. , JP 97-100091, JP 96-134242, prostaglandin receptor agonists or antagonists, non-prostanoid prostaglandin analogs as described in EP 1 175 891 and EP 1 175 890, WO 01/74307, WO 01/74313, WO 01/74314, WO 01/74315 or WO 01/72268, and mixtures thereof. Other additional compounds promoting hair growth that may be present in the composition according to the invention include vasodilators, antiandrogens, cyclosporins and their analogs, antimicrobials and antifungals, anti-inflammatories, retinoids, alone or in combination. mixed. Vasodilators that may be used include potassium channel agonists including minoxidil, cromakalim, nicorandil and diaxozide, alone or in combination.

The antiandrogens that may be used include, in particular, steroidal or nonsteroidal 5α-reductase inhibitors, such as finasteride, cyprosterone acetate, azelaic acid, its salts and derivatives, flutamide, oxendolone, spironolactone, diethylstilbestrol. The antimicrobial or antifungal compounds may be selected from selenium derivatives, octopirox, triclocarban, triclosan, pyrithione zinc, itraconazole, asiatic acid, hinokitiol, mipirocine, tetracyclines, especially the erythromycin, clinycin hydrochloride, benzoyl or benzyl peroxide, minocycline and compounds belonging to the class of imidazoles such as econazole, ketoconazole or miconazole or their salts, nicotinic acid esters, including in particular tocopherol nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate and C1-C6 alkyl nicotinates such as methyl or hexyl nicotinates. The anti-inflammatory drugs may be selected from steroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as glucocorticoids, corticosteroids (for example: hydrocortisone) and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as glycyrrhetinic acid and a-bisabolol, benzydamine, and 'salicylic acid. The retinoids may be selected from isotretinoin, acitretin and tazarotene. As other additional active compounds that promote the growth and / or limit the hair loss that can be used in combination with the combination of active agents according to the present invention, mention may be made of aminexil, 6-0 - [(9Z, 12Z) ) -octadeca-9,12-dienoyl] hexapyranose, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, phenol, estradiol, chlorpheniramine maleate, chlorophyllin derivatives, cholesterol, cysteine, methionine, menthol , peppermint oil, calcium panthotenate, panthenol, resorcinol, protein kinase C activators, glycosidase inhibitors, glycosaminoglycanase inhibitors, pyroglutamic acid esters, hexosaccharide or acyl acids -hexosaccharique, substituted aryl ethenes, N-acyl amino acids, flavonoids, ascomycin derivatives and analogues, histamine antagonists, saponins, proteoglycanase inhibitors, agonists and estrogen antagonists, pseudoterines, cytokines and promoters of growth factors, IL-1 or IL-6 inhibitors, IL-10 promoters, TNF inhibitors, benzophenones, and hydantoin, retinoic acid; vitamins such as vitamin D, vitamin B12 analogues and panthotenol; triterpenes such as ursolic acid; antipruritic agents such as thenaldine, trimeprazine or cyproheptadine; antiparasitics, particularly metronidazole, crotamiton or pyrethroids; calcium antagonists, such as cinnarizine, diltiazem, nimodipine, verapamil, alverine and nifedipine; hormones such as estriol or its analogues, thyroxine and its salts, progesterone; FP (F-type prostaglandin receptor) receptor antagonists such as latanoprost, bimatoprost, travoprost, unoprostone; 15-hydroxyprostaglandin dehydrogenase inhibitors; their mixtures.

It is also conceivable that the composition comprising at least the combination of active agents according to the present invention is in liposome form. Thus, the combination of active agents according to the invention encapsulated in the liposomes can be delivered selectively to the level of the hair follicle. The composition to which the invention applies may be applied to the hair of an individual, and possibly left in contact for several hours and possibly rinsed. For example, it is possible to apply the composition containing an effective quantity of the combination of active ingredients according to the invention, in the evening, to keep it in contact all night long and possibly to shampoo in the morning. These applications can be renewed daily for one or more months depending on the individual. Thus, the subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of hair, in humans, intended to improve the quality of the hair and / or the hair fibers in humans, characterized in that it comprises less the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of at least one combination of active agents according to the present invention, to leave it in contact with the hair, and possibly the rinsing of the hair.

More specifically, the subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic care of the hair in humans, with a view to improving their condition and / or their appearance, in particular by combating the deterioration of the quality of the hair, which appears especially with the hair. , characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair and / or the scalp, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one combination of active agents according to the present invention, to leave it in contact with the hair and / or scalp, and possibly rinsing hair and / or scalp. Advantageously, in the process according to the invention, 5 to 1 ml of a solution or composition as defined above, comprising from 2% to 12% by weight of glycine, in particular from 5 to 5%, are applied to the scalp. 10% by weight, and even more particularly between 6 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. To improve the efficiency of the method, it is advantageous to massage the scalp, manually or using an instrument. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation.

Example 1 Characterization of a Free Amino Acid Profile in Healthy vs. Human Man a man with a deficiency correlated with capillary aging and more particularly an impairment of the quality of the hair 1.1. Hair extraction protocol.

The study was conducted on 70 subjects (35 young non-alopecian men and 35 elderly non-alopecic men). By age, we must understand a population of 50 to 65 years old and by young, we must understand a population of 20 to 35 years. The hair, 10 per individual, are taken from both the neck and the vertex.

The roots are homogenized in a micro-mill containing sterile water. The samples are stored at -20 ° C. before analysis according to the protocol described below. 1.2. Protocol for determining the profile of amino acids, peptides and peptide derivatives. The determination of taurine and free amino acids was performed on the HitachiL-8800 amino acid auto-analyzer from hair follicles by ion exchange chromatography.

PRINCIPLE OF AMINO ACID ANALYSIS: The natural amino acids, some of their metabolites and small peptides (especially glutathione) are separated on a column filled with a cation exchange resin. The elution is based on the gradual increase in pH and ionic strength of the eluents, as well as the variation in the temperature of the column. A post-column reaction with ninhydrin is then put in place at 135 ° C thus giving a purple color with all the amino acids except with proline and its derivatives giving a yellow color. A colorimeter makes it possible to detect the amino acids at two wavelengths, 570 nm for all the amino acids except proline and its detectable derivatives at 440 nm. The duration of an analysis consists of three cycles: an elution cycle of the different amino acids (105 minutes), a rinse cycle (15 minutes) and then equilibration of the column (30 minutes).

The following ready-to-use reagents were used: a standard commercial solution of sigma amino acids, asparagine (sigma, ref .: 70-47-3), glutamine (Sigma, ref .: 56-85 -9), reduced glutathione (Fluka, ref: 70-18-8), oxidized glutathione (Fluka, ref: 27025-41-8), O-Phospho-1-serine (Sigma, ref 407- 41-0), O-Phosphoryl ethanolamine (Sigma, ref 1071-23-4), 1N hydrochloric acid, a Ninhydrin / buffer kit (Hitachi, ref 142-05051). Lithium citrate buffer solution pH 2: 0.07 M was prepared from 10 g of citric acid, H 2 O, 1.26 g of lithium hydroxide, made up to 1000 ml with water, solution was then adjusted to pH 2 with hydrochloric acid. Elution Buffers are prepared: Buffer 1 Buffer 2 Buffer 3 Buffer 4 Buffer 5 DISTILLED WATER 700 mL 700 mL 700 mL 700 mL 700 mL LITHIUM CITRATE 5.73 g 9.80 g 8.79 g 9.80 g LITHINE 8.40 g LITHIUM CHLORIDE 1.24 g 6.36 g 26.62 g 38.15 g CITRIC ACID 19.90 g 12.00 g 11.27 g 3.3 g ETHANOL 30 mL 30 mL 100 mL 30 mL BENZYL ALCOHOL 3 mL 2,2'-THIODIETHANOL 5 mL 5 mL 4 mL 4 mL 4 mL BRU 4 mL 4 mL CAPRYLIC ACID 0.1 mL 0.1 mL 0.1 mL 0.1 mL 0.1 mL TOTAL 1000 mL 1000 mL 1000 mL 1000 mL 1000 mL Li + concentration 0.09 0.255 0.721 1 0.2 pH 2.8 3.7 3.4 4.1 Post-column reagents, ninhydrin-buffer mixture, ready at 5 L are available from ScienceTec (14205051). The compositions and their implementation are described below. REACTIVE STAGES QUANTITIES 1 1-METHOXY-2-PROPANOL 978.5 ml 2 NINHYDRIN 38.5 g Ninhydrin 3 Degassing operation via an inert gas 5 minutes 4 SODIUM BOROHYDRIDE 80.5 mg Degassing operation via an inert gas 5 minutes 1 DISTILLED WATER 671 ml 2 LITHIUM ACETATE 407 g Buffer 3 ACETIC ACID 245 ml 4 1-METHOXY-2-PROPANOL 801 ml 5 Degassing operation via an inert gas 10 minutes10 The standard amino acid solutions are as follows: 1) Standard Sigma commercial at 0.05 mMuM + O-Phospho-1-serine and 0-Phosphoryl ethanolamine at 0.05 mMuM: (standard 1 containing 40 amino acids). This solution is stored at 4 ° C. 2) Glutamine-Asparagine-reduced Glutathione-Glutathione standard solution oxidized to 0.05 mol / ml: (standard 2). This solution must be prepared extemporaneously. The standard solutions (1 and 2) are put in solutions in a pH 2 buffer making it possible to positively charge the amine functions and then are filtered on a 0.45 μm Millex filter, in 2 mL vials. The test is prepared as follows: Defrosting is carried out gradually at 4 ° C. The tubes are vortexed and centrifuged. A quantity of supernatant of between 50 and 80 l is removed using a precision micropipette and transferred into 100 l inserts.

ANALYSIS Assay Chromatographic conditions: The column is filled with cationic resin (Hitachi 2622SC) 60 mm long and 4.6 mm in diameter. It is preconditioned and regenerated in Li + form with the buffer eluent 5. The elution is carried out according to the schedule reported in Table 1 below. The injected volume is 25 l for the standard solutions. The injected volume of the samples is variable, depending on the volume of the supernatant recovered. (A margin of 20 l is required for any injection given the structure of the sampling needle). TABLE 1: Eluting Program on the Hitachi L8800 Amino Acid Analyzer: ELUTION BUFFERS (total 100%) FLOW (mL / min) STEPS TEMPERATURE TIME (minutes) 1 2 3 4 5 COLUMN (° C) Pump Eluent pump Ninhydrin / Buffer 1 0 100 38 0.35 0.35 2 10 30 3 17.9 4 18 80 20 20.5 52 6 29.5 70 30 7 31.6 10 90 8 39 45 9 43 100 43 , 1 11 51 70 12 51.1 100 13 67 45 14 73 73.1 100 16 92 70 17 107 18 107.1 100 19 112 120 38 21 120.1 100 22 122 23 150 TEMPERATURE REACTION NINHYDRIN: 135 ° C Assay :

The assay is performed by external calibration using standard solutions 1 and 2 of amino acids. In view of the good reproducibility of the post-column colorimetric method, the calibration line for each amino acid is constituted by the value of a range point and that corresponding to the analysis of a blank (line through originally).

Nevertheless, standards are prepared once a week for standard 1 and extemporaneously for standard 2 and are injected every 8 samples in order to check the reliability of the results.

The amount of each amino acid present is calculated after integration of the Visible signal and is given in relative content. 1.3. Free amino acid profile in healthy vs. healthy humans a man with a deficiency correlated with capillary aging and more particularly an alteration of the quality of the hair A table 2 is reported below, giving the amino acid values, peptides or peptide derivatives, analyzed respectively for the two populations analyzed. Values are reported in mole percent based on the total amount of amino acids, peptides and peptide derivatives forming the material analyzed.

TABLE 2 Men non Alopecic alopecic alopecic young old Glycine 6.2% 5.2% Serine 5.4% 4.1% Valine 2.9% 2.6% Threonine 2.7% 2.2% These data showed a significant decrease in glycine, serine, valine and threonine in the elderly male population compared to the young male population. A difference is also noted for some other analytes but it is less significant than that observed for each of the analytes of interest considered according to the invention.

Claims (21)

REVENDICATIONS1. Oral and / or topical cosmetic use of a combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine to prevent and / or treat soft, brittle, dull, refined hair, forks, improve softness and vigor the fiber, the volume of the hair and its shine, in the man. 2. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said combination is implemented in the form of a composition further comprising at least one of the amino acids, peptides or peptide derivatives selected from the group consisting of arginine , citrulline, histidine and leucine. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that said combination is implemented in the form of a composition further comprising at least one of the two amino acids asparagine and isoleucine, or both amino acids. 4. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said composition further comprises methionine. 5. Use according to any preceding claim wherein the glycine, serine, valine and threonine are used in amounts such that the amount of glycine is greater than that of serine, the latter being superior to the amount of valine which is itself greater than the amount of threonine. 6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio between serine and glycine is between 0.5 and 1.6, in particular between 0.7 and 1.5, and more particularly between 0.8 and 1.1. 7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio between valine and glycine is between 0.1 and 0.9, in particular between 0.3 and 0.7, and more particularly between 0.4 and 0.6. 8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio between threonine and glycine is between 0.1 and 0.8, in particular between 0.2 and 0.7, and more particularly between 0.3 and 0.5. 9. Use according to any one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that said combination is implemented in the form of a composition comprising the mass ratios between arginine and glycine, citrulline and glycine, l. histidine and laglycine, leucine and glycine independently between 0.07 and 0.7, in particular between 0.1 and 0.5, and more particularly between 0.2 and 0.4. 10. Use according to any one of claims 3 to 9, characterized in that said combination is implemented in the form of a composition comprising the mass ratios between asparagine and glycine and between isoleucine and glycine independently between 0.07 and 0.4, in particular between 0.1 and 0.3, and more particularly between 0.15 and 0.25. 11. Use according to any one of claims 4 to 10, characterized in that said combination is implemented in the form of a composition comprising the mass ratio between methionine and glycine between 0.05 and 0.3 , in particular between 0.07 and 0.2, and more particularly between 0.09 and 0.15. 12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination is implemented in the form of a composition containing in addition taurine, glutamic acid, glutamine, reduced glutathione and optionally aspartic acid and alanine, and optionally also arginine, citrulline, histidine, leucine, asparagine, isoleucine and methionine, and in that the mass ratio between glutamic acid and taurine is between 0.4 and 0.8, preferably between 0.5 and 0.7; the mass ratios between glutamine and glutathione reduced, taken independently, and taurine, are between 0.2 and 0.6, preferably between 0.3 and 0.5; the mass ratios between aspartic acid and alanine, taken independently, and taurine are between 0.1 and 0.5, preferably between 0.2 and 0.4; the mass ratio between glycine and taurine is greater than 0.4; the mass ratio between serine and taurine is greater than 0.3; the mass ratios between valine and threonine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.2; the mass ratios between arginine, citrulline, histidine, leucine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.1; the mass ratios between asparagine and isoleucine, taken independently, and taurine are greater than 0.06 and / or the mass ratio between methionine and taurine is greater than 0.002. 13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said combination or composition containing it is applicable topically and in that the glycine content is between 2 and 12% by weight of the composition, in particular between 5 and 10% by weight, and even more particularly between 6 and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said combination or composition containing it is intended for topical application and that it is in the form of an aqueous solution, aqueous, alcoholic, hydro- alcoholic or oily, an emulsion or dispersion of consistency more or less fluid and in particular liquid or semi-liquid, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / H), d a dispersion or solid emulsion (O / W) or (W / O), an aqueous, hydro-alcoholic or oily gel more or less fluid or solid, a free or compacted powder for use as such or to incorporate in a physiologically acceptable medium, or microcapsules or microparticles, vesicular dispersions ionic and / or nonionic, or in the form of foam, spray or aerosol, or a lotion, serum, milk, cream O / W or E / H, gel, ointment, ointment, powder, balm, p atch, soaked pad, soap, bread or foam. 15. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that said combination or composition containing it is in the form of a food supplement, and in particular in the form of soft capsules or capsules, wrapped capsules, gels, dry or liquid emulsions, tablets, dilutable powders or ampoules, or an enriched food. 16. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 12 and 15, characterized in that said combination is intended for oral administration and in that it contains from 10 to 300 mg of glycine, in particular from 20 to 200 mg, especially 30 to 170 mg. 17. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination is implemented in the form of a composition further comprising at least one of the compounds selected from polyphenols, fatty acids, vitamins such as vitamins B1, B3, B5, B6, B8, B12, C, D or PP, tocopherol and its derivatives, in particular ester such as acetate or tocopherol palmitate, zinc or its salts, selenium , niacin, a carotenoid such as (3-carotene, lycopene, zeaxanthin and lutein, polyunsaturated fatty acids, gelatin and seborrhea regulators. 18. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino acids, peptides and peptide derivatives present in the composition are in the form of protein hydrolyzate or combinations of several protein hydrolysates or are obtained by biotechnological methods. 19. A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising, as single amino acids, a combination of glycine, serine, valine and threonine. 20. The composition of claim 19 wherein the combination is as defined in claims 5 to 8 and 13 to 18. 21. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair in humans, intended to improve the quality of the hair and / or the hair fibers, characterized in that it comprises at least the oral administration or the topical application of an association according to any one of claims 1 to 18.