FR2771289A1 - ABASE HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION OF CERAMIDE PRECURSORS - Google Patents

Abstract

This invention relates to hair treatment compositions, in particular hair styling compositions, containing natural hair ceramide precursors, and the use of the compositions for enhancing the physical properties of the hair fiber such as in particular shine, satin , manageability, smoothness and integrity of the cuticles. The most preferred ceramide precursor is L-serine. Preferably, the ceramide precursor is used in the composition together with one or more auxiliary lipid components, such as phospholipids and / or free fatty acids.

Description

Es Hair treatment composition Field of the invention This

  the invention relates to hair treatment compositions, in particular styling compositions or hairstyling compositions, containing precursors of natural ceramides of the hair, and the use of the compositions for increasing the physical properties of the hair fiber, in particular the shine or the shiny, satin, workability, softness and integrity of the cuticles, Background of the invention Lipids are important constituents of the hair structure, because they are responsible for the consistency

  cuticular or cortical cell to cell.

  Lipids are present on the surface of fibers, linked to the surface membrane and in the cell membrane complex and it is believed that they contribute to radiance, satiny, workability, softness, protection, lubrication and

  the integrity of the fiber cuticles.

  The lipids are lost by the fibers due to physical and chemical damage suffered among others during washing, harsh hairdressing treatments, and bad weather. This in turn reduces the natural possibilities of the structure to resist mechanical damage and increases the potential for further damage to the hair which causes it to become dull, lifeless and brittle and ultimately causes breakage and

formation of split hair.

  Ceramides are believed to be particularly important components in the lipid profile of the hair, and have already been proposed in hair treatment compositions. EP 278 505 A (Estee Lauder) describes a hair protection composition, such as a shampoo or a lotion

  capillary, containing a ceramide and a cholesterol derivative.

  EP 739 625 A (L'Oreal) describes a composition for washing and treating hair which contains an anionic surfactant,

  an amphoteric surfactant, a cationic polymer and a ceramide.

  JP-A-63/243 016 (Kanebo) lists scalp treatment formulations and oily hair tonics

containing ceramides.

  WO 97 15274 A1 (L'Oreal) describes cosmetic compositions containing a hair fixing polymer and ceramides. The compositions are said to protect the hair from breakage, a common problem encountered when styling with hair fixing polymers, due to the brushing / combing force required to untangle and re-hair the fibers of the hair.

hair coated with polymers.

  The exogenous application of free ceramide by means of hair treatment compositions as described above has several drawbacks. First, there is the cost of extracting materials from natural sources or chemical syntheses. Then, ceramides as a category of molecules, are highly hydrophobic and susceptible to occlusion and therefore difficult to formulate in hair treatment products. In addition, free ceramides supplied exogenously do not become integrally and strongly bound to the fiber, unlike natural ceramides which can be

  only extract from the fiber by alkaline hydrolysis.

  We have now found that the cultivated hair follicles can synthesize natural ceramides of the hair if they are supplied with certain nutritious particular amino acids which

  are precursors for the biosynthesis of ceramides.

  We know that friendship acids are important for nourishing the root of human hair or

  development of human hair or hair.

  GB 1 401 089 describes hair treatment compositions containing natural amino acids or protein hydrolysates. Particularly preferred are glycine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, lysine, serine, alanine, for the reason that these naturally combined amino amines are found, in the form of polypeptides, in collagenic substances. and keratin which appear as components

  of the human skin and hair. We find the description

  of a shampoo composition which comprises hydrolysates

  protein from the complete hydrolysis of collagen.

  EP O 186 025 describes cosmetic preparations for the care of the skin and the hair with a hydrolysate of almond proteins. Almond protein is characterized by a high content of acidic and basic amino acids and it contains 40 - 50% in

  weight of glutamic acid, aspartic acid and arginine.

  WO97 / 01322 describes components for hair care with at least one "conditioning agent" chosen from one or more particular amino acids (among others serine, tyrosine and lysine). The "conditioning agent" is said to penetrate the treated hair and stabilize the structure of the hair, thereby

  especially where there has been damage to the hair.

  Numerous publications describe the use of a range of amino acids, often in the form of a "cocktail", in lotions or tonics for topical application to treat baldness or other disorders of the skin, scalp and hair. Examples of these presentations are JP 59/007111 which relates to a hair cosmetic with preventive properties against dandruff containing vitamin E acetate and methionine, CA 888.689 which describes hair and scalp preparations for normalizing secretions scalp and promote hair growth which may contain inter alia cysteine and methionine in a base comprising bergamot oil and a nonionic emulsifier, and WO 92/00720 which describes a composition containing L -leucine, L- isoleucine and L-valine, which is said to stimulate

  growth and regeneration of hair and nails.

  I0 The prior art discussed above does not relate to the biosynthesis of natural hair ceramides in

hair follicles.

  Summary of the invention According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a formulation for hairstyling in order to provide precursors of natural ceramides of the hair to the hair follicles which comprises: (i) a precursor of ceramide which is an amino acid chosen from serine and its analogs and / or derivatives, which precursor is present in proportions ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and from 20% to% by weight relative to the total weight of the acids amines present in the composition; (ii) from 0.5% to 10% of a styling resin; (iii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or solvent; (iv) from 0% to 50% of an aerosol propellant; and (v) at least one selected auxiliary lipid component

  among phospholipids, free fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

  According to a second aspect, the invention provides the use of an amino acid chosen from serine and its analogs and / or derivatives, as precursor of ceramides in a hair treatment composition, preferably a composition for hairdressing, in order to increase at least one of the following surface properties of hair: shine, satin, workability, flexibility and integrity of the cuticles. Preferably, the amino acid is used together with at least one lipid component

  auxiliary as defined above.

  detailed design Precursor of amino acid or amino acid ceramide. L-serine is the amino acid or amino acid (i) which is most preferred for the compositions of the invention. It is believed, although one does not wish to be bound by any theory, that this is the most direct precursor for the synthesis of ceramides in the hair follicles by forming the "skeleton" of the ceramide molecule. Certain proposed biochemical pathways have been given in the literature but have not yet been fully elucidated. Simple derivatives of amino acid (i) can be used such as salts and hydrosalts. It is also possible to use other derivatives such as the acyl, ester and peptide derivatives. These can also be used in the form of

salts or hydrosalts.

  Examples are the N-alkanoyl derivatives in which the alkanoyl moiety has an alkyl chain length of 3 to carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example

  example N-butanoyl, N-hexanoyl and N-octanoyl, the N- derivatives

  alkyl or COO-alkyl in which the alkyl group is a linear chain and contains from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl and n-propyl and the peptide derivatives in which the peptide residue includes

  2 to 8 amino acid residues or substituted amino acid residues.

  Mixtures of amino acids, such as

  those which can be obtained from a protein hydrolyzate.

  However, such a mixture must be judiciously chosen to ensure that from 20% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the amino acids present in the resulting composition consist of one of the particular amino acids (i) or one of their mixtures. Preferably, from 90% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the amino acids present in the resulting composition consist of one of the particular amino acids or

  a mixture of particular amino acids (i).

  The total amount of amino acid (i) in the compositions of the invention is from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.02% to 5%, even better from 0.05 % to 2%. Hair Resin The hair resins used in the compositions of the present invention must be able to form a film and hold the user's hair in place after evaporation of the volatile components of the hair composition. Styling resins or styling resins are well-known articles in the trade and many of these resinous polymers which are commercially available contain fragments which make the polymers cationic, anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic in nature. To provide optimum sprayability in spray-type formulations such as lacquers, pump sprays and foams, the polymers used are typically in a number average molecular weight range from 5,000 to 100,000, values of 10,000 to 50,000 still being preferred. For the use of pump spray, hairdressing resins in the range of number average molecular weight from 10,000 to 50,000 are used from

characteristic way.

  The amount of the resin can range from 0.5 to 10%,

  preferably 1.5 to 6% by weight of the hairstyling composition.

  Examples of anionic styling resins are copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, terpolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and a vinyl ester of a branched saturated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid.

  alpha such as vinyl neodecanoate; copolymers of methyl-

  vinyl ether and maleic anhydride (molar ratio of about 1: 1) o these copolymers are 50% esterified with a saturated alcohol containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol or butanol; and copolymers, terpolymers, etc. acrylics containing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid as a fragment containing an anionic radical and the esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid with one or more saturated alcohols having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms such as methyl methacrylate , ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, n- acrylate hexyl, n-octyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate and behenyl acrylate; glycols

  having 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as hydroxy methacrylate

  propyl and hydroxyethyl acrylate, styrene, vinylcapro-

  lactam, vinyl acetate, acrylamide, alkyl acrylamides and methacrylamides having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as methacrylamide, t-butyl acrylamide and n-octyl acrylamide, and other compatible unsaturated monomers. A particular example is the emulsion polymerized terpolymer of methacrylic acid, n-butyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate (for example in a percentage weight ratio of 31:42:27 respectively). Another particular example is Ultrahold 8 (CTFA-Cosmetic, designation of the Association Toiletries and Fragance of the acrylate /

acrylamide).

  Amphoteric polymers which may contain

  cationic groups originating from monomers such as t-butylamino-

  ethyl methacrylate as well as carboxyl groups derived from monomers such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid can also be used in the present invention. A particular example of an amphoteric resin for hairdressing is Amphomer sold

  by the National Starch and Chemical Corporation.

  Examples of nonionic hair resins are

  homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of N-

  vinylformamide and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with compatible nonionic monomers such as vinyl acetate and terpolymers of ethyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate and methyl methacrylate. Nonionic polymers containing N-vivnylpyrrolidone in various weight average molecular weights are commercially available from ISP Corporation, such as homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having molecular weights

  average of about 630,000 sold by ISP (previously GAF Corporation) under the brand PVP K-90 and those with an average molecular weight of about 1,000,000 sold under the brand PVP K-

  120. Examples of cationic styling resins are the copolymers of amino-functional acrylate monomers such as methacrylate or lower alkylaminoalkyl acrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with compatible monomers such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam or alkyl methacrylates such as methyl methacrylate and ethyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylates such as ethyl acrylate and n-butyl acrylate. Cationic polymers containing N-vinylpyrrolidone are commercially available from ISP Corporation such as those sold under the trademarks of Copolymer

  845 and Copolymer 937 (copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and metha-

  t-butylaminoethyl crylate with an average molecular weight of approximately 1,000,000) and Gafquat 755 and 755N (quaternary ammonium polymers formed by the reaction of dimethyl sulfate and a copolymer of Nvinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate

  average molecular weight of approximately 1,000,000).

  With some of the resins it may be necessary to neutralize certain acid groups to promote solubility / dispersibility. Examples of suitable neutralizing agents

  include 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediO1 (AMPD); 2-amino-2-

  ethyl-1,3-propanediol (AEPD); 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (AMP); 2 amino-1-butanol (AB); monoethanolamine (MEA); diethanolamine (DEA); triethanolamine (TEA); monoisopropanolamine (MIPA); diisopropanolamine (DIPA); triisopropanolamine (TIPA); dimethylstearamine (DMS). If the styling resin contains carboxyl groups, an agent can be used

  long chain amine neutralizer such as lauramidopropyl-

  dimethylamine as described in US 1 871 601l. The amounts of neutralizing agents range from about 0.001 to about 10%

by weight of the composition.

  Solvent or vehicle The compositions of the invention comprise a comestically acceptable vehicle or solvent which is preferably present in an amount of 0.1% to 99% by weight of the composition. The term cosmetically acceptable vehicle or solvent is used here to describe a vehicle for carrying or supporting the ingredients of the composition which must be applied to the desired surface,

know the hair.

  Water is a solvent or vehicle useful in the compositions of the invention, either alone or as a mixture with other solvents or vehicles. The solvent or vehicle can have varying degrees of viscosity, depending on the desired shape of the product, and it can include aqueous or non-aqueous vehicles to which a gelling agent can optionally be added.

give an aqueous or non-aqueous gel.

  In formulations where the vehicle or solvent comprises an aqueous gel, suitable gelling agents include: carboxyvinyl polymers such as those available from BF Goodrich Chemical Company under the brand

CARBOPOL;

  sodium and magnesium silicate (available under the brand LAPONITE from Laporte Industries); gums forming gels such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carrageenan gum, locust bean gum and

cellulose gum.

  I0 Other suitable vehicles are volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone and short chain alcohols

like ethanol.

  Formllts idu Drodi t The hairstyling compositions of the present invention may be formulated as sprays in the form of aerosols or non-aerosols and may thus be dispensed from containers which are aerosol containers loaded with propellant, or otherwise pump spray containers handled without any propellant. Alternatively, one can use forms of

styling mousse or gel.

  When the hairstyling compositions are to be dispensed from a pressurized aerosol container, an aerosol propellant must be incorporated into the composition. This agent is responsible for the expulsion of other products from the

  container and the formation of foam or lacquer character.

  The propellant can be any liquefiable gas conventionally used for aerosol containers. Preferably, the density of the propellant or its mixture is lower than that of the styling concentrate so that pure propellant is not emitted from the container. Examples of suitable propellants include dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane and isobutane, used alone or in mixtures. Other examples of propellants are nitrogen, carbon dioxide and air

compressed.

  The amount of propellant is governed by normal factors well known in the aerosol art. For styling compositions, the level of propellant generally ranges from approximately 3 to approximately 50%, preferably from approximately 5 to approximately 45%,

  optimally from about 35 to 45% of the total composition.

  Auxiliary line component The compositions of the invention also include, as ingredients, at least one selected auxiliary lipid component

  among phospholipids, free fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

  In this way, the hair fiber can be supplemented topically with an exogenous lipid originating from the composition, which thus completes the action of the natural root of the ceramide precursor in the composition which, as we have found "is S shaped "in natural ceramide of the hair by voles

  biosynthetics in the hair follicle.

  Particularly preferred auxiliary lipid components include: natural phospholipids such as lecithin; biomimetic phospholipids, such as PHOSPHOLIPID EFA (linoleamidopropyl phosphatidyl. PG-dimonium chloride) and PHOSPHOLIPID PTC (cocamidopropyl phosphatidyl PG dimonium chloride), both from Mona Industries, Inc .; mixtures of phospholipids such as the material

CERAMAX sold by Quest.

  Suitable examples of free fatty acids include

  branched chain fatty acids such as 18-methylicicosa-

  noic, and the other homologs of this series, straight chain fatty acids such as stearic, myristic and palmitic acids, and unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid,

  linoleYque acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

  Particularly preferred are these fatty acids which appear naturally as an essential integral component of the hair fiber and which consequently may require

  replenishment due to loss and damage of the fiber.

  The fatty acids can be added simply, in mixtures, or in the form of mixtures obtained from extracts, for example from lanolin. Linear chain fatty acids such as stearic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid and palmitic acid are most preferred. They have been found to provide good protection against damage to the hair fiber. An acid

  most preferred branched chain fatty acid is 18-

  methyloseosanoic acid, which has been implicated in maintaining the state of

  fiber and cuticle integrity.

  Mixtures of any of the above lipid auxiliary components can also be used. These components are typically used individually in proportions ranging from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight of the composition. Optional Ingredients The compositions of this invention may contain any other ingredient normally used in hair styling formulations. These other ingredients can include emulsifiers such as anionic or nonionic surfactants, silicones, viscosity modifiers, preservatives, coloring agents, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants, fragrances, agents antimicrobials and sunscreens. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to fulfill its purpose. In

  general, these optional ingredients are incorporated individually-

  in proportions ranging up to about 5% by weight of

the total composition.

  Preferably, the compositions of this invention

  also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care.

  In general, these ingredients are included individually in a proportion of up to 2%, preferably up to 1% by weight of

the total composition.

  Among the adjuvants suitable for hair care are: (i) natural nutrients for the hairline, such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and / or their precursors and derivatives. Amino acids can be added simply, in mixtures or in the form of peptides, for example diet tripeptides. The amino acids can also be added in the form of a protein hydrolyzate such as a keratin or collagen hydrolyzate. Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. They can be added simply or in the form, for example, of fruit extracts. A particularly preferred combination of natural nutrients from the hair root to be included in the compositions of the invention is that of isoleucine and glucose. A particularly amino acid type nutrient

preferred is arginine.

  (ii) Beneficial agents for hair fiber.

  Examples are: ceramides to moisten the fiber and maintain the integrity of the cuticles. Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources or in the form of synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides. A preferred ceramide is Ceramide II from Quest. Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, such as LS ceramides from Serobiological Laboratories. Method of use The compositions of the invention are essentially intended for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of a human to improve the surface properties of the hair fiber such as the satin, the softness, the maneuverability,

  the integrity of the cuticles and in particular the shine or shine.

  Consequently, the invention also offers the use of an amino acid chosen from serine and its analogs and / or derivatives as a ceramide precursor in a hair treatment composition, preferably a composition for hairdressing, in order to increase at least one of the following surface properties of the hair: shine, satin, workability, flexibility and integrity of the cuticles. The ceramide precursor is preferably used in the composition together with one or more components

  auxiliary lipids, as described above.

  We will now illustrate the invention using the

following non-limiting examples.

  E xempe <1 Demonstration of the incorporation of serine in ceramics by human hair follicles in vitro Human hair follicles are isolated by the method of Philpott et al. (1990, "J. Cell. Sci" 97: 1163-170) and they are cultivated in the presence of serine labeled with a radioactive substance. The follicles are incubated for 2 days at 37 C, with 5% of C0, in air and a humidity> 95%. At the end of the total incubation period, extract

  the lipid content of the follicles and analyzed.

  The results clearly show that the major marked species consists of ceramides and monoglycerides. For

  determine the quantity of radiolabel incorporated into the ceramide, the monoglycerides are hydrolyzed into fatty acids and the ceramides are isolated using minicolumns linked by NH2.

  The bound lipid from the hair is also extracted, separated and analyzed. Ceramides from the fiber of

  hair are also labeled with radiolabelled serine.

  Examples 2 and 3 The following examples illustrate formulations of lacquers according to the present invention Chemical name Commercial name Supplier Ex 2 Ex 3 (% by weight) (% by weight) Octylacrylamide / acrylate polymer / - Amphomer (28-4910) National Starch 2,000 2,400 butylaminoethyl methacrylate Aminomethylpropanol AMP (95%) 0.346 0.415 Dimethicone Silwet L7602 OSI Specialties 0.100 0, 100 Dimnethicone Silicone DC 200 10 cps Dow Coming 0.100 0.100 Polysorbate 20 Tween 20 ICI 0.260 0.260 Fragrance 0.250 0yr zolid Polyvinyl 0.050 0.050 Phospholipids Ceramax Quest 0.00065 0.00065 L-serine hydrochloride L-Serine Kiowa 0.00065 0.00065 Demineralized water 2, 000 2,000 Butane 35,000 35,000 Ethanol 96 59,893 59,424 hJ -J - oo ExemDles 4 and 5 The following examples illustrate gel formulations for hairdressing according to the present invention Chemical name Commercial name Supplier Ex 4 Ex 5 (% by weight) (% by weight) Carbom er 940 Carbopol 940 Goodrich 0.300 0.300 Triethanolamine TEA 0.340 0.340 Copolymer PVP / VAPVP / VA 64 BASF 3,200 Polyvinylformamide PVF Polymer National Starch 3,000 EDTA tetrasodium Tetrasodium EDTA 0.100 0.100 Polysorbate 20 Tween 20 ICI 0, 400 0.400 Dimethicone CTH 0 0.5 copolyol SILICONE Q2 5097 Dow Corning 0.060 0.060 Phospholipids Ceramax Quest 0.001 0.001 N-Serine monohydrochloride L-Serine Kiowa, o 0.001 Perfume 0.250 0.250 Propylene glycol Propylene glycol Dow 5,000 5,000 Para-hydroxybenzoate methyl Nipagina Nipa Labs0,200 Phenoxethanol Phenoxethanol 0.2 0.400 Hydrogenated castor oil PEG-40 CREMOPHOR RH 410 BASF 0.400 0.400 Demineralized water 88.848 89, 048 Examples 6 and 7 The following examples illustrate formulations of spray gels for hairdressing according to the present invention Chemical name Trade name Suppliers Ex 6 Ex7 (% by weight) (% 7 by weight) Carbomer 950 Carpobal 940 Goodrich 0.188 0.188 Triethanolamine TEA 0.120 0.120 Copolymer PVP / VA PVP / VA 64 BASF 3,800 Polyvinylformamide PVF polymer National Starch 3,500 Tetrasodium EDTA Tetrasodium EDTA 0.100 0.100 Polysorbate 20 Tween 20 ICI 0.400 0.400 DC193 Dow Coming 0.500 0.500 SILICONE Q60 0.060 0.060 Ceramax Quest 0.001 0.001 L-Serine monohydrochloride L-Serine Kiowa 0.001 0.001 Perfume 0.250 0.250 Propylene glycol Propylene glycol 5,000 5,000 Methyl para-hydroxybenzoate Nipagina Nipa Labs 0.200 0.200 Phenox ethanol Phenox ethanol Nipa Labs 0.400 0.400 Castor oil hydrogen 40HP CREM BAS 40 0.400 0.400 Demineralized water 88.580 88.88 ExemDles 8 and 9 The following examples illustrate formulations of foam for hairdressing according to the present invention Chemical name Trade name Supplier Ex 8 Ex 9 (% by weight) (% by weight) Chitosan PCA Kytamer PC Amerchol 0.759 Cocamnidopropyl betaine Dehyton KE Henkel 0.736 0 , 736 PVP / VA copolymer Luviskol VA64AE (50%) BASF 6.992 Polyquaternium-16 Luviquat FC550 (40%) BASF 2.5024 Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Arquad 16/50 (50%) Henkel 0.0828 Polysorbate Twveen 20 ICI 0.368 0.3255 Phenoxyethanol 0.368 0.368 Dimethicone copolyol Sil Q25097 Dow Coming 0.0598 0.0598 Dimethicone copolyol DC 193 Dow Coming 0.2024 Ethanol 6.21 3.128 Perfume 0.25 0.25 Phospholipids Ceramax Quest 0.001 0.001 L-Serine L-Serine Kiowa 0.001 0.00 l Hydrogenated castor oil PEG-40 Cremophor RH410 BASF 0.368 0.368 Demineralized water Local 82.6768 77.1855 co

Claims (4)

  1. Hairdressing formulation for the supply of precursors of natural ceramides of the hair to the hair follicles which comprises: (i) a precursor of ceramide which is an amino acid chosen from serine and its analogs and / or derivatives, which precursor is present in proportions ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and from 20% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the amino acids present in the composition; (ii) from 0.5% to 10% of a styling resin; (iii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or solvent; (iv) from 0% to 50% of an aerosol propellant; and (v) at least one auxiliary lipid component chosen from the group comprising phospholipids, free fatty acids and their mixtures.   2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the auxiliary lipid component is chosen from the group comprising stearic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid,   palmitic acid, 18-methyléicosanoïque acid and their mixtures.   3. Use of an amino acid chosen from serine and its analogs and / or derivatives as a ceramide precursor in a hair treatment composition, preferably a composition for hairdressing, to increase at least one of the surface properties of the hair following: shine, satin,   workability, smoothness and integrity of cuticles.   4. Use according to claim 3, in which the hair treatment composition further comprises at least one auxiliary lipid component as defined in claim 1.