FR2992180A1 - Composition used as capillary product for delaying regreasing of hair and/or scalp and for making up, caring for, cleansing, dyeing/shaping keratin material e.g. lips, comprises hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and cationic surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and cationic surfactant.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a capillary composition, comprising the combination of hydrophobic silica airgel particles and at least one cationic surfactant, as well as a method for implementing said composition.

Hair tends to lose some of its qualities under the influence of factors such as natural regreasing, sweat, scaling, pollution, moisture and other factors. The visual appearance or the touch of the hair can thus be degraded. Regreasing, for example due to pollution, increases the hair, which then tends to pack. The hair can be difficult to comb in addition to having, for example, a greasy gloss or an unpleasant waxed touch. To combat these inconveniences, it is possible to use detergent compositions, for example shampoos, in order to eliminate soiling (sebum, sweat, pollution, etc.) or dandruff, and to relax the hair. The coat is then rinsed and dried. Shampoos must be renewed regularly, for example after a few days or even after a few hours. However, shampoos, based on significant amounts of surfactants, can cause discomfort such as tingling on the scalp or in the eyes.

The shampoo or skin washing compositions may also combine with the surfactants, sebum absorbers to allow the perception of cleanliness of the hair or the skin to be prolonged over time. However, it has been found that the effectiveness of these products is still insufficient compared to consumer expectations. Indeed, they do not significantly reduce the frequency of washing of the hair in particular, which frequency may differ depending on the country or even the region concerned and may range from one to two shampoos a day to one or two shampoos a week.

To date, no cosmetic composition of hygiene, in particular capillary, can significantly slow the regreasing, including hair. The object of the present invention is to propose cosmetic compositions which overcome these disadvantages. The compositions according to the invention make it possible to preserve a perception of clean hair for a longer time than with a usual shampoo; for example, this perception of clean hair can be a week for people who usually wash their hair 2 to 3 times a week, and can be at least 3 days for people who usually wash their hair. want every day. Moreover, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain cleaning performances at least identical to those of a standard shampoo, in particular a very good detergency. The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, hydrophobic silica airgel particles and at least one cationic surfactant. It has been found that the use of the compositions according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the regreasing of the hair and / or the scalp, and thus makes it possible to reduce the washing frequency. In the present description, the term "at least one" is equivalent to the term "one or more" and may be substituted therefor. In the present description, the term "between" is equivalent to and may be substituted for "from". Aerobic particles of hydrophobic silica The composition according to the invention therefore comprises hydrophobic silica airgel particles. Aerogels are ultra-light porous materials, the first of which were made by Kristler in 1932. They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid. The most commonly used supercritical fluid is supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials from gel, namely for example (i) drying by freeze drying, consisting of solidifying the gel at low temperature and then subliming the solvent and (ii) drying by evaporation. The materials thus obtained are called cryogels and xerogels respectively. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. "Hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes; siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane; or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles capable of being used in the present invention advantageously have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles capable of being used in the present invention advantageously have an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably 6 to 18 ml / g of particles. at 15 ml / g and better still at 8 to 12 ml / g.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles that may be used in the present invention advantageously have a size, expressed as the average diameter (D [0.5]), of less than 1500 μm and preferably of from 1 to 30 μm. pm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm, more preferably from 5 to 20 μm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles that may be used in the present invention advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.04 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably 0.05 g / cm 3. cm3 at 0.08 g / cm3. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used in the present invention advantageously have a specific surface area per unit volume (SV) ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3. and better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic silica airgel particles according to the invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g. and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed in average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm and / or an oil absorption capacity measured at WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably 6 to 15 ml / g and more preferably 8 to 12 ml / g.

According to another preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g and a size expressed as a mean diameter by volume ( D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm, more preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The absorption capacity measured at WET POINT, and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil according to the principle described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil intake (oil absorption capacity) corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. The sizes of the airgel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. In the context of the present invention, packed density can be appreciated. According to the following protocol, the packed density protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder and the test piece is placed on a STAV 2003 STAMPF VOLUMETER machine. The test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the specimen. The packed density is determined by the ratio mass (m) / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g). The specific surface per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SM xp, where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and SM is the specific surface per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above. . The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica airgel particles (INCI name silica silylate).

The preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation is further described in US 7,470,725. Hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups will be used in particular.

Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size. about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Mention may also be made of aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201 and AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

The airgel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

It is of course possible to use a mixture of hydrophobic silica airgel particles. The compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrophobic silica airgel particles in an amount of between 0.01 and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight. 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cationic surfactant. It is of course possible to use a mixture of cationic surfactants. The cationic surfactants that may be employed in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example: - (A) those corresponding to the following formula (I): X in which: the radicals R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the radicals R8 to R11 having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic radicals may contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, alkyl (C12-C22) amidoalkyl (C2-C6) radicals, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl. X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulphates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulphonates or (C1-C4) alkylsulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), it is preferred, on the one hand, the salts, in particular chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium, for example salts, in particular dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the radical alkyl has about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially salts, including behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, diketyldimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides; and on the other hand, the salts, in particular palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride, for example sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. (B) the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (II) below: ## STR2 ## in which: R 12 represents an alkenyl radical; or alkyl having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, - R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical; R15 represents a hydrogen atom; a C1-C4 alkyl radical; X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates and alkyl ( C1-C4) sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonates or (C1-C4) alkylsulphonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name Varisoft W 575 PG N by the company Evonik Goldschmidt. - (C) quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of the following formula (III): ## STR1 ## wherein: R16 denotes an alkyl radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, -R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2) 3 -NN (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18a), R 16a, R 17a, R 18a, R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulphates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulphonates or (C1-C4) alkylsulphonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are for example the Finquat CT-P proposed by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (Quaternium 89), the Condicare CT proposed by the company lnnospec Active Chemicals (Quaternium 75). (D) quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of the following formula (IV): ## STR2 ## ) R 25 (C 1 H 2 O (OH) t 1 -O) x -R 23 X R 22 wherein R 22 is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; - R23 is chosen from: - the radical 25 - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R24, - hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: o - the radical R28-C- The linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon radicals R 29, R 26 and R 28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon radicals; or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; - ri and tl identical or different, being 0 or 1 - r2 + r1 = 2r and tl + t2 = 2t - y is an integer of 1 to 10; x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; - X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon radical R 27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from C1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphate, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphonate or a (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulphonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; - R23 is chosen from methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals, the hydrogen atom or - the radical R26 -C- - R25 is chosen from the hydrogen atom or - the radical R28 - C- - R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals, and preferably from linear or branched C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (IV) include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, di-oxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. Mention may be made more particularly of the salts, and in particular the methosulphate, of distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, of dipalmethylethylhydroxyethylammonium or of distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanamine, optionally oxyalkylenated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably a methyl or ethyl, the methanesulphonate. methyl fonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131 can be used.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function have two ester functions. Of the cationic surfactants which may be used in the composition according to the invention, cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmethylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, are more particularly preferred. proposed for example by the company Clariant under the trade names Gemanin KDMP or Gemanin BTLF or by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Varisoft BT 85, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example under the trade name Dehyquart A OR by the company Cognis or Quartamin 60 W25 by Kao or Genamin CTAC 25 by Clariant, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate such as the commercial product Dehyquart F 30 sold by Cognis, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from compounds of formulas (I) or (IV). The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the at least one cationic surfactant in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.2 and 6% by weight, better still between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other Ingredients The cosmetic composition according to the invention generally comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with keratin materials such as the skin of the face or of the body, the lips, the hair, the eyelashes, eyebrows and nails. The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used, and especially in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or suspension or oily solution; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the HIE, W / O or multiple type; a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or any other cosmetic form. These compositions may be packaged in pump bottles or in aerosol containers, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form (lacquer) or in the form of foam. Such forms of conditioning are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray or a mousse, for the treatment of hair. In these cases, the composition preferably comprises at least one propellant. The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. It is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration ranging preferably from 5 to 98% by weight, especially from 20 to 98% by weight, better still from 50 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition The composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents liquid at 25 ° C., 1 atm., in particular water-soluble, such as C 1 -C 7 alcohols; there may be mentioned aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols C1-C7, polyols and C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can be used alone or in admixture with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent may be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, different from the compounds of the invention, in particular chosen from propellants; vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; solid fats and especially waxes, C8-C40 esters, C8-C40 acids; C8-C40 alcohols; nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants; solar filters; moisturizing agents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; defixing agents such as thiols and alkali hydroxides; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; pigments; the charges; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); thickeners, polymeric or not; conditioning or styling polymers; fragrances; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes; crosslinking agents such as polyphenols, aldehydes, DHA. The composition may of course include several cosmetic ingredients listed above. Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the usual cosmetic ingredients may be present in customary amounts, easily determinable by those skilled in the art, and which can be understood, in general, for each ingredient, between 0.01. at 80% by weight. The oils may preferably be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 80% by weight, especially 0.02 to 40% by weight, or even 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. They can be carbonaceous. Mention may be made in particular of vegetable, animal or mineral oils, hydrogenated or not, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, cyclic or aliphatic synthetic oils, such as, for example, polyalpha-olefins, in particular polydecenes and polyisobutenes; liquid fatty alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleic alcohol; liquid esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate. Mention may also be made of silicone oils, volatile or not, organomodified or not, water-soluble or not; fluorinated or perfluorinated oils; as well as their mixtures. The composition may also comprise one or more solid fatty substances, and in particular one or more fatty alcohols, fatty esters and / or fatty acids, different from the above oils, having 8 to 40 carbon atoms; these solid fatty substances may preferentially be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 30% by weight, especially 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mention may in particular be made of C12-C32, especially C12-C26, linear chain fatty alcohols, and in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. Mention may also be made of C16-C40 linear or branched chain fatty acids, and in particular 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, coconut oil acids or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acids are unsalified. Mention may also be made of linear chain fatty esters having a total of between 8 and 40 carbon atoms, such as myristyl, cetyl or stearyl myristates, palmitates and stearates, alone or as a mixture. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The pH of the composition, if aqueous, may be acidic, neutral or alkaline. Preferably, the composition has a pH of between 2 and 11, especially 3 to 9 or even 3 to 7.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a product for the care, cleaning and / or make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the eyebrows, the eyelashes, the nails and the hair , a sunscreen or self-tanning product, a personal hygiene product, a hair product, especially care, cleaning, styling, shaping, hair dyeing. It finds particularly a particularly interesting application in the hair field, including the maintenance of the hairstyle or the shaping of the hair, or the care, the cosmetic treatment or the cleaning of the hair. The hair compositions are preferably shampoos, hair conditioners, styling or care gels, lotions or care creams, conditioners, masks, serums, styling lotions, blow-drying lotions. fixing and styling compositions such as lacquers or spray; restructuring lotion for hair; anti-hair loss lotion or gel, anti-parasitic shampoo, anti-dandruff lotion or shampoo, anti-seborrhoeic shampoo. The lotions may be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump-bottles or in aerosol containers to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. The composition according to the invention finds a particularly advantageous application for the care, treatment and / or cleaning of hair and / or hairy leather, for example in shampooing, after shampooing, after-treatment of hair. a shampoo and / or a conditioner; or between two shampoos. For example, the composition according to the invention can be applied to the scalp and / or the hair, directly after shampooing, on damp hair or on dry hair, with or without a break, with or without heat, application being followed or not rinsing and drying, either at room temperature or with a hair dryer or with a straightening iron (250 ° C) for example. The composition according to the invention can also be applied to the scalp and / or the hair between two shampoos, on damp hair or on dry hair; with or without a pause time, with or without heat, said application being followed or not by rinsing and drying, either at room temperature or with a hair dryer or with a straightening iron (up to 250 ° C) for example The cosmetic composition can be rinsed or not after being applied to the keratin materials (hair and / or scalp). The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of make-up, care, cleaning, coloring, shaping, keratin materials, in particular of the skin of the body or of the face, lips, nails , hair and / or eyelashes, comprising the application on said materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. This is in particular a hair treatment method, for the care, the cosmetic treatment and / or the cleaning of the hair and / or the scalp, and in particular for delaying or even preventing regreasing. hair and / or scalp, and so space shampoos. The invention is further illustrated in the following examples.

EXAMPLES The following care compositions (`) / 0 by weight of commercial product are prepared: Composition SILICALATE SILYLATE (INCI name) 0.5% 2 992 180 14 Behenyl trimethylammonium chloride in 79% solution in isopropanol medium / water (GENAMIN KDMP from CLARIANT) 3% pH agent Qs pH 3.5 Water Qsp 100% Composition B SILICA SILYLATE (INCI name) 0.5% Cetyl trimethylammonium chloride 25% in aqueous solution 3% (GENAMIN CTAC 25 by CLARIANT) pH agent Qs pH 3.5 Water Qsp 100% Composition C SILICA SILATE (INCI name) 0.5% Mixture Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate (30) / cetearyl alcohol (70) 3% (DEHYQUART F 30 of the company COGNIS) pH agent Qs pH 3.5 Water Qsp 100% The SILICA SILATE used is the product sold under the name DOW CORNING VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES by Dow Corning. The compositions are in the form of a dispersion of pH equal to 3.5 and 10 are easy to apply on the hair and the scalp; they make it possible to reduce the regreasing of the hair. The compositions also have good cosmetic properties on damp hair, such as ease of disentangling.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium - hydrophobic silica airgel particles and - at least one cationic surfactant. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a surface area per unit mass (SM) of from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better from 600 to 800 m2 / g, A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have an oil absorption capacity measured at WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 12 ml / g. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a size, expressed as the average diameter (D [0.5]), of less than 1500 μm and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and most preferably 5 to 15 μm. 5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a packed density p ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably 0, 0.5 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3. 6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume (SV) of from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably to 50 m2 / cm3 and better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are silylated silica airgel particles and in particular hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are present in a quantity of between 0.01 and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 10%. % by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactant is chosen from the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I): ## STR1 ## in which: R8 to R11 radicals, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the radicals R8 to R11 comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic radicals may contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphonates or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactant is chosen from salts, especially chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium, for example salts, especially chlorides, of dialkyldimethylammonium or of alkyltrimethylammonium. in which the alkyl radical contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyl dimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides; salts, in particular chloride, of itylamiopropyltrimethylammonium salt and salts, in particular chloride, of stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactant is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of formula (IV): ## STR2 ## Embedded image in which: R 22 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals (OH) R 1) y (C 2 H 2 O) R 25 (CtHt 2 (OH) t 1 -O); C6; - R23 is chosen from: 17 - the radical - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon radicals R - C, - R 25 is chosen from: o - the radical R 28 - C- - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon radicals R 29, R 26 and R 28, which are identical or different, are chosen from C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; - r1 and t1 identical or different, being 0 or 1 - r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t - y is an integer of 1 to 10; x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; - X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactant is chosen from salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, and their mixtures; acyl radicals preferably having 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil; and most particularly the salts, especially methosulphate, of distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic surfactant or surfactants are present in an amount of between 0.1 and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.2 and 6% by weight, better still between 1 and 10% by weight. and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water at a concentration ranging from 5 to 98% by weight, in particular from 20 to 40% by weight, better still from 50 to 95% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the com-position. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a hair product, especially for the care, the cosmetic treatment or the cleaning of the hair and / or scalp. 16. Cosmetic treatment process, especially for makeup, care, cleaning, coloring, shaping, keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, lips, nails, hair and / or eyelashes, comprising applying to said materials a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 15. 17. A method according to claim 16, of hair treatment, for the care, the cosmetic treatment and / or the cleaning of the hair and / or the scalp, in particular for delaying or even preventing the regreasing of the hair and / or scalp.