FR2706491A1 - Process and installation for producing a jacquard velvet knit on a circular loom and a new type of knitting thus produced. - Google Patents

Abstract

Knitted jacquard velvet made on a weft-stitch circular knitting machine, comprising a cylinder (C) equipped with latch needles and a plate (P) equipped with sinkers (13) displaceable between the needles (7) of the cylinder and making it possible to form loops of different heights, characterised in that each row comprises, in addition to a jersey or structured ground thread, various colour threads distributed successively to the needles as a function of the selection of a design to be produced, this being carried out by means of sinkers making it possible to obtain loops of different heights likewise selected as a function of the design, thus making it possible, after a finishing treatment (shearing), to obtain a relief velvet with non-sheared and sheared and multi-coloured loops.

Description

METHOD AND INSTALLATION FOR MAKING A KNIT

  VELOURS JACOUARD ON A CIRCULAR AND NEW BUSINESS

TYPE OF KNIT SO PRODUCED.

  The present invention relates to an improved method for producing a new type of Jacquard velvet knit, two or three colors, made on a circular loom with gathered stitches; it also relates to a circular loom with gathered meshes allowing the setting

of such a process.

  The velvet knits made on a circular loom have been known for a very long time and are obtained by shaving loops

formed during knitting.

  In addition to velvet knits or plain loops, it has been proposed for a long time to produce Jacquard knits on multichaut circular looms comprising a cylinder equipped with pallet needles and a platen plate, movable between the needles of the cylinder and

allowing to form puddles.

  In addition to the conventional looms for producing Jacquard knits in which each row consists of a single color (see German Patent 1,128,076), it has been proposed, as is apparent from British Patent 2,111,540, a document whose contents integral part of the present application as necessary, to make velvet knits having a very high density of bristles and which is characterized essentially by the fact that the different colors are knitted on one and the same row of stitches and not in of the

successive rows.

  Now it has been found, and this is the subject of the present invention, an improvement made to such a process which makes it possible not only to obtain a Jacquard velvet knit (with two or three hair colors) and which, in addition, has the characteristic of being able to achieve loops of different heights, which allows to obtain, after finishing treatment and including shaving, a velvet "relief" with unshaved loops

and shaved and multicolored.

  In general, the method according to the invention is characterized in that: the plate is provided with plates whose nose comprises two superimposed zones allowing the formation of two lengths of loops, the zone allowing the formation of the loops of great length being, if we consider its positioning relative to the needles, recessed relative to the formation area short loops; the control and the displacements of the plates of formation of the loops are carried out by means of a system of selection making them penetrate of two predetermined values between the needles, so that the wire buckles around one or the other of the two zones

  superimposed nose turntables and this according to the drawing to achieve.

  In other words, according to the invention, in addition to the particular structure of the plates allowing the formation of two loops heights, said plates are moved between the needles by means of a set operating in a manner similar to the Jacquard system of needle control, the training cycle of each

  row of meshes being conventional.

  The invention and the advantages it brings will however be better

  understood through the following description and diagrams appended in

  which: - Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the structure and operation of an electronic selection system for actuating the cylinder needles according to the drawing to be made; Figure 3 illustrates a mechanical selection system also for operating the needles according to a drawing; FIG. 4 illustrates an assembly allowing the implementation of the method according to the invention and more particularly the structure of the plates for the formation of the loops as well as the manner in which their displacement is realized between the needles; FIGS. 5 and 6 schematically illustrate the new type of knit made according to the invention, on the one hand at the fall of

  occupation (FIG. 5) and after finishing treatment (shaving) (FIG. 6).

  If one refers to the attached diagrams, the invention therefore relates to a method (and an installation for its implementation) allowing the realization of a Jacquard velvet several colors (on the same row of stitches two or three colors of hair), but which also has (see Figure 5) loops high (B) and low (b) allowing, after shaving, to have, as shown in Figure 6, a velvet "relief" with loops unshaven (NR) and shaved (R) and multicolored (two or

three colours).

  For the implementation of the method according to the invention, a knitting machine is used which comprises, in a conventional manner to the cylinder (C), means making it possible to select the needles, which means can consist either in an electronically controlled system (Figures 1 and 2) either in a mechanically controlled system

(Figure 3).

  The realization of the knitting through the needles is carried out in a conventional manner and can be summarized as follows: 1st fall: Jersey bottom thread on all the needles (or a needle on two with complementary work on the following fall of bottom); 2nd fall: hair yarn working according to the selection of the drawing (1st color); 3rd fall: hair yarn working according to the selection of the drawing (2nd color); 4th fall: hair yarn working according to the selection of the drawing (3rd color); Then: restart the report by restarting with a background for the 5th fall which can, in the case of a structured background,

to be the complement of the fall 1.

  It is obvious that one can achieve not only three-color knits as said above, but possibly knits having only two colors; in such a case, the report is only

on three falls.

  The operation of such a system is as follows.

  At the lock of the cylinder, and on a bottom fall of the same group of falls, all the needles start out in the knitting position while the ground is pricked. Then, the needles are selected according to the drawing on the following "loop" falls and the loop threads are pre-selected. The finishing of the precured mesh row, occurs at the end of the group of falls in the area

slaughtering stitches.

  In the case of an electronic selection as illustrated in the figures

  1 and 2, the procedure is as follows.

  The drawing system of each "loop" cylinder drop, consists of an electronic control magnet (1) which receives the pulses. The pulse causes the magnet (1) to release a control plate (2) (selector or platinum spring), so that the needle (7) of the cylinder (C)

  concerned moves to the knitting position.

  In the absence of a pulse, the control board (2) remains stuck to

  the magnet and the corresponding needle remains in the non-knitting position.

  Assuming that the control plate is released (see Figure 1), the control magnet (1) has been excited by a control pulse programmed according to the drawing. The control plate (2) is moved away from the magnet (1) by the force of the spring (3). The exit heel (4) is grasped and is brought up by the output edge (5) of the output cam

  (6), the corresponding needle (7) being raised in the knitting position.

  Assuming that the control board is not released (Figure 2), the control magnet (1) has not been excited. The permanent magnet holds the plate (2). The plate (2) and the needle (7) remain

in the non-knitting position.

  In the case of mechanical selection (Figure 3), a system

  Jacquard is associated with. each cylinder cam system.

  The Jacquard selects the pushers (10) according to the drawing. For this purpose, the drum (20) is provided on its periphery with a row of pin holes. As soon as a pin (30) meets the selector (40) placed at its level, it pushes the pusher in the cylinder. The needle (70) superimposed on the pusher remains in the non-knitting position. When, on the other hand, no pin is inserted in the drum, the heel (60) of the pusher is caused to mount on the cam (70).

  which raises the needle in the knitting position.

  Such sets therefore make it possible to produce in a known manner

Jacquard velvet knitwear.

  For the implementation of the process according to the invention, and in order to be able to produce articles having different loop heights, which, after shaving, will give relief effects, the craft

  receives the adaptations as illustrated in Figure 4.

  Such installations essentially reside in the structure of the tray (P) of the knitting machine and the plates, designated by the general reference (13) allowing the formation of loops. According to the invention, the plates (13) are adapted to present a nose having two superimposed zones (14,15) allowing the formation of two lengths of loops. These two zones are such that the one (15) allowing the formation of the long-length loops is positioned, if we consider the needle (7), so that it is set back with respect to the formation zone ( 14) short loops. Furthermore, said plates are associated with a selection system, designated by the general reference (S) for communicating a longitudinal displacement between the needles for the formation of the loops and the realization of each row of meshes, said displacement being achieved, according to the invention, so that the plates can take two positions, one shown in dashed lines in Figure 4 according to which the son are distributed around the area (15) allowing the formation of loops of great length, another, set back from the previous one, represented in full lines in FIG. 4, according to which the wire is made on the continuous zone (14). The distance between these two displacements is equal to the spacing between the two zones (14,15) by

compared to the needles (7).

  In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 4, the means constituting the system for selecting and controlling the displacements of the plates (13) consist of the assembly comprising, in a manner comparable to the means for actuating the needles. (7), a control magnet (21) which can be excited according to the drawing to be made. Each platen (13) is associated with a selector (12) subject to

the action of a spring (15).

  Thanks to such an assembly, it is possible to communicate two different displacements to the plates (13), one shown in dotted lines in FIG. 4 where the plates are in the position B, position called "with control selector released", l other, represented in solid lines in which the plates are in the position A, position called "selector of

order not released ".

  In the position "control selector released", the control magnet (1) is excited by a control action programmed according to the drawing. The selector (2) is separated from the spring force magnet (5) and the corresponding plate (3) is pushed into the zone B thus forming with the needle (7) a so-called high loop around the zone

(15) of the plate (13).

  In the position "control selector not released", the control magnet (21) is not energized. The permanent magnet thus maintains the selector (12). The plate (13) remains in the zone A, thus forming with the corresponding needle (7) a so-called "low" loop around the zone (14) of the plate (13). Thanks to such a set, we obtain a Jacquard velvet type knitting illustrated in Figure 5 and having several colors (two or three hair colors on each row of stitches) and which, moreover, has the characteristic of having loops. high (B) and low loops (b). After shaving, there is obtained a knit fabric having the structure shown in FIG. 6, a knit which not only has a Jacquard appearance but also a "velvet" type appearance with unshaven (NR) and shaved (R) and multicolored loops. (two or three

colors).

Claims (2)

  1 / Process and installation for producing a Jacquard velvet knit on a circular loom with gathered stitches, comprising a cylinder (C) equipped with pallet needles (7) and a plate (P) provided with displaceable plates (13) between the needles (7) of the cylinder and forming the loops, characterized in that: - the plate (P) is provided with plates (13) whose nose has two superimposed zones (14,15) allowing the formation of two lengths of loops, the zone (15) allowing the formation of loops of great length being, if one considers its positioning relative to the needles (7), recessed with respect to the formation zone (14) of short loops length; the control and the displacements of the plates (13) for forming the loops are carried out by means of a selection system (S) making them penetrate two predetermined values between the needles (7), so that the thread loop around one or the other of the two superimposed zones (14, 15) of the nose of the plates (13), and this according to the drawing to achieve. 2 / jacquard velvet knit with two or three hair colors, made according to claim 1, characterized in that it has loops of different heights which, after finishing treatment (shaving), leads to the formation of a velvet embossed with no shaved and shaved and multicolored.