EP0629727B1 - Knitted jacquard velvet made on a weft stitch circular knitting machine and process for its manufacture - Google Patents

Abstract

Knitted jacquard velvet made on a weft-stitch circular knitting machine, comprising a cylinder (C) equipped with latch needles and a plate (P) equipped with sinkers (13) displaceable between the needles (7) of the cylinder and making it possible to form loops of different heights, characterised in that each row comprises, in addition to a jersey or structured ground thread, various colour threads distributed successively to the needles as a function of the selection of a design to be produced, this being carried out by means of sinkers making it possible to obtain loops of different heights likewise selected as a function of the design, thus making it possible, after a finishing treatment (shearing), to obtain a relief velvet with non-sheared and sheared and multi-coloured loops. <IMAGE>

Description

The present invention relates to a new type of velvet knit Jacquard, two or three colors, made on a circular loom picked stitches; it also relates to a process allowing the obtaining of such a knit.

Velvet knits made on a circular loom with picked stitches have been known for a very long time and are obtained by shaving curls formed during knitting.

In addition to plain velvet or terry knitwear, it has been offered since very long time making Jacquard knitwear on circular looms multi-fall comprising a cylinder fitted with paddle needles and a plate provided with plates, movable between the needles of the cylinder and allowing to form loops.

In addition to conventional trades for knitting Jacquard in which each row consists of a single color (see German patent 1,128,076), it has been proposed, as is apparent from British Patent 2,111,540, document of which content is part integral of this request as necessary, to carry out velvet knits with a very high density of pile and which essentially characterized by the fact that the different colors are knitted on one and the same row of stitches and not in successive rows.

It has also been proposed for a very long time, and this spring in particular from US-A-1 790 832, to realize knitting looms circulars comprising a cylinder fitted with palette needles and a plate fitted with plates, movable between the cylinder needles and allowing to form loops of different height. Knitwear obtained on such looms have a single wire in each row, and it is therefore not possible to obtain velvet knits having a very high pile density from such articles.

A third type of pile knitting is known from document EP-A-0 072 425. In this knitting, each row consists of a ground thread and a single pile thread which works in complementary with another bottom thread and another pile thread. In the sections complementary to a row which are distributed according to a drawing to be made, the non-looping coat and associated bottom thread hang in fleece weave on the other complementary wires which make the bottom and the loop. According to claim 3, the loop threads can have different colors and form a velvet loops of different heights. However, since the bottom or pile threads are knitted in two knitting systems respectively successive, a row of knitting is in fact composed of several partial rows each comprising a ground wire associated with a single bristle wire. So at the level of individual knitting systems, there is only one color in a partial row and not many different colors. This is why the knitted fabric obtained cannot have a very high density multicolored hair appearance.

Now we have found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, that by adapting the technique of manufacturing Jacquard knits such as described in British Patent 2,111,540, so that one realizes loops of different height, that it was possible not only to obtain a Jacquard velvet knit with two or three hair colors of very high density, but also to obtain knits which, after treatment finishing and in particular shaving, allow to have a velvet to "relief" with unshaven and shaved and multicolored curls, article impossible to obtain by prior techniques.

pour la réalisation d'un tricot velours Jacquard deux ou trois couleurs sur un métier à tricoter circulaire à mailles cueillies, dont le cylindre est équipé d'aiguilles à palettes et le plateau muni de platines déplaçables entre les aiguilles dudit cylindre, et qui permettent de former des boucles de hauteur différente, comprenant:

un cycle de tricotage tel que les différents constituants du tricot, fil de fond et fils de couleur, sont tricotés sur une seule et même rangée de mailles et non pas dans des rangées successives, les différents fils de couleur étant distribués aux aiguilles en fonction de la sélection d'un dessin à réaliser ;

la commande et les déplacements des platines de formation des bouclettes étant réalisée par l'intermédiaire d'un système de sélection les faisant pénétrer de deux valeurs prédéterminées entre les aiguilles de telle sorte que le fil boucle autour de l'une ou l'autre de deux zones superposées que comporte le nez de platines, et ce en fonction des dessins à réaliser ; et

après réalisation du tricot, un traitement de finition par rasage à un niveau situé au dessus des bouclettes de courte longueur permettant ainsi d'obtenir un velours à relief avec des boucles non rasées et rasées et multicolores.

In general, the invention therefore relates to a new type of knitting. Jacquard velvet in two or three colors made on a circular loom with picked stitches, comprising in each row in addition to a jersey or structured bottom thread, different colored threads distributed successively to the needles of the loom according to the selection of a design to be made and which, after having undergone a shaving finishing treatment, has a relief appearance with unshaven and shaved and multicolored curls. The invention also relates to a method

for the production of a two or three color Jacquard velvet knitting on a circular knitting machine with picked stitches, the cylinder of which is equipped with pallet needles and the plate provided with plates displaceable between the needles of said cylinder, and which allow form loops of different height, including:

a knitting cycle such that the different constituents of knitting, background yarn and colored yarn, are knitted on a single row of stitches and not in successive rows, the different colored yarns being distributed to the needles according to the selection of a drawing to be made;

the control and movements of the loop formation plates being carried out by means of a selection system making them penetrate two predetermined values between the needles so that the thread loops around one or the other of two superimposed zones that comprise the nose of plates, and this according to the drawings to be produced; and

after knitting, a shaving finish treatment at a level above the short length loops, thus obtaining a relief velvet with unshaven and shaved and multicolored loops.

In other words, in accordance with the invention, in addition to the structure particular plates allowing the formation of two heights of loops, said plates are moved between the needles by means of a set functioning in a similar way to the system Needle control jacquard, the training cycle of each row of meshes being conventional.

• les figures 1 et 2 illustrent la structure et le fonctionnement d'un système de sélection électronique permettant d'actionner les aiguilles du cylindre en fonction du dessin à réaliser;
• la figure 3 illustre quant à elle un système de sélection mécanique permettant également d'actionner les aiguilles en fonction d'un dessin ;
• la figure 4 illustre un ensemble permettant la mise en oeuvre du procédé conforme à l'invention et plus particulièrement, la structure des platines pour la formation des boucles ainsi que la manière dont leur déplacement est réalisé entre les aiguilles ;
• les figures 5 et 6 illustrent de manière schématique le nouveau type de tricot réalisé conformément à l'invention, d'une part à la tombée du métier (figure 5) et après traitement de finition (rasage) (figure 6).

The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the following description and attached diagrams in which:

• Figures 1 and 2 illustrate the structure and operation of an electronic selection system for actuating the needles of the cylinder according to the drawing to be produced;
• FIG. 3 illustrates a mechanical selection system also making it possible to actuate the needles as a function of a drawing;
• FIG. 4 illustrates an assembly allowing the implementation of the method according to the invention and more particularly, the structure of the plates for the formation of the loops as well as the manner in which their displacement is achieved between the needles;
• Figures 5 and 6 schematically illustrate the new type of knitting produced in accordance with the invention, on the one hand at the end of the loom (Figure 5) and after finishing treatment (shaving) (Figure 6).

If we refer to the attached diagrams, the invention therefore relates to the realization of a Jacquard velvet several colors comprising on the same row of stitches two or three colors of hair and which, in addition, has (see Figure 5) high (B) and low (b) loops allowing, after shaving, to have, as illustrated in figure 6, a velvet with "relief" with unshaven (NR) and shaved (R) and multicolored curls (two or three colours).

For the production of such a knit according to the invention, use is made a knitting loom comprising, in a conventional manner with a cylinder (C), means making it possible to select the needles, means which can consist either in a control system electronics (Figures 1 and 2) either in a mechanically controlled system (figure 3).

1ère chute :

fil de fond Jersey sur toutes les aiguilles (ou une aiguille sur deux avec travail complémentaire sur la chute de fond suivante) ;

2ème chute :

fil de poil travaillant en fonction de la sélection du dessin (1ère couleur) ;

3ème chute :

fil de poil travaillant en fonction de la sélection du dessin (2ème couleur) ;

4ème chute :

fil de poil travaillant en fonction de la sélection du dessin (3ème couleur) ;

Ensuite :

reprise du rapport en redémarrant avec un fond pour la 5ème chute qui peut, dans le cas d'un fond structuré, être le complément de la chute 1.

The knitting using the needles is carried out conventionally and can be summarized as follows:

1st fall:

Jersey bottom thread on all needles (or every other needle with additional work on the next drop);

2nd fall:

pile of hair working according to the selection of the design (1st color);

3rd fall:

fur thread working according to the selection of the design (2nd color);

4th fall:

pile of hair working according to the selection of the design (3rd color);

Then:

resumption of the report by restarting with a background for the 5th fall which can, in the case of a structured background, be the complement of fall 1.

It is obvious that one can realize not only knitwear three colors as said before, but possibly knitwear with only two colors; in such a case, the report is only on three falls.

The operation of such a system is as follows.

At the cylinder lock, and on a bottom drop of a same group of falls, all the needles start out by knitting position while the bottom thread is picked. Then the needles are selected according to the drawing on the "loop" scraps following and the looped yarns are picked. The finish of the row of precooked mesh, intervenes at the end of the group of falls in the area mesh felling.

In the case of an electronic selection as illustrated in the figures 1 and 2, we proceed as follows.

The system of drawing of each fall "loop" of cylinder, is composed an electronic control magnet (1) which receives the pulses. The pulse causes the magnet (1) to release a control board (2) (selector or plate spring), so that the needle (7) of the cylinder (C) concerned goes into knitting position.

If there is no pulse, the control board (2) remains stuck to the magnet and the corresponding needle remain in the non-knitting position.

In the event that the control board is released (see Figure 1), the control magnet (1) was excited by a pulse of command programmed according to the drawing. The control board (2) is moved away from the magnet (1) by the force of the spring (3). The exit stub (4) is gripped and brought up by the output edge (5) of the output cam (6), the corresponding needle (7) being raised in the knitting position.

In the event that the control board is not released (Figure 2), the control magnet (1) was not energized. The magnet permanent holds the plate (2). The plate (2) and the needle (7) remain in the non-knitting position.

In the case of mechanical selection (Figure 3), a system Jacquard is associated with each cylinder cam system.

The Jacquard selects the pushers (10) in accordance with drawing. To this end, the drum (20) is provided on its periphery with a row of pin holes. As soon as a pin (30) meets the selector (40) placed at its level, it pushes the pusher into the cylinder. The needle (7) superimposed on the pusher remains in the no position knitting. When, on the other hand, no pin is inserted in the drum, the heel (60) of the pusher is caused to mount on the cam (70) which therefore lifts the needle into the knitting position.

Such assemblies therefore make it possible to carry out in a known manner Jacquard velvet knits.

In accordance with the invention, and in order to be able to produce articles with different heights of curls, which, after shaving, will give relief effects, the profession receives adaptations such as shown in Figure 4.

Such facilities essentially reside in the structure of the plate (P) of the knitting machine and the plates, designated by the reference general (13) allowing the formation of loops. In accordance with the invention, the plates (13) are adapted to present a nose comprising two superimposed zones (14,15) allowing the formation of two lengths of loops. These two areas are like that (15) allowing the formation of long loops is positioned, if the needle (7) is considered, so that it is set back with respect to to the formation area (14) of short length loops. Otherwise, said plates are associated with a selection system, designated by the general reference (S) allowing them to communicate a trip longitudinal between the needles for the formation of loops and the making each row of meshes, said displacement being carried out, in accordance with the invention, so that the plates can take two positions, one shown in dotted lines in Figure 4 according to which the wires are distributed around the area (15) allowing the formation of very long loops, the other, set back from the previous one, shown in solid lines in FIG. 4, according to which the wire is carried out on the continuous zone (14). The distance between these two displacements is equal to the spacing between the two zones (14,15) by with respect to the needles (7).

In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 4, the means constituting the system for selecting and controlling the movements of plates (13), are constituted by the assembly comprising, in a way comparable to the means for actuating the needles (7), a control magnet (21) which can be excited according to the drawing to achieve. Each plate (13) is associated with a selector (12) subjected to the action of a spring (15).

Thanks to such a set, it is possible to communicate two different displacements to the plates (13), one shown in dotted lines in Figure 4 where the plates are in position B, position called "to command selector released ", the other, shown in solid lines in which the plates are in position A, position called "selector of order not released ".

In the "control selector released" position, the magnet command (1) is excited by a programmed command action following the drawing. The selector (2) is moved away from the magnet by force of the spring (5) and the corresponding plate (3) is therefore pushed into zone B thus forming with the needle (7) a so-called high loop around the area (15) of the plate (13).

In the "command selector not released" position, the magnet command (21) is not excited. The permanent magnet therefore maintains the selector (12). The plate (13) remains in zone A, thus forming with the needle (7) corresponding to a so-called "low" loop around the area (14) of the plate (13).

Thanks to such an assembly, a velvet-like knit is therefore obtained. Jacquard illustrated in figure 5 and comprising several colors (two or three hair colors on each row of stitches) and which, moreover, has the characteristic of having high loops (B) and low loops (b). After shaving, we get a knit with the structure shown in Figure 6, knitting which not only has a Jacquard appearance but also an aspect of the "relief" velvet type comprising unshaved (NR) and shaved (R) and multicolored curls (two or three colors).

Claims (2)

1. Knitted fabric of two or three colours, made on a circular weft knitting machine, comprising, in each row, in addition to a jersey or structured ground thread, various colour threads delivered successively to the needles (7) of the knitting machine according to the selection of a design to be produced, characterized in that, having undergone a finishing treatment by shearing, the fabric gives a relief appearence with unsheared (NR) and sheared (R) multi-colour loops.
2. Process for producing a knitted fabric of two or three colours on a circular weft knitting machine, the cylinder (C) of which is equipped with latch needles (7) and the plate (P) of which is equipped with sinkers (13) displaceable between the needles (7) of the said cylinder and which make it possible to form loops of different height, comprising:

   a knitting cycle such that the various components of the fabric, ground thread and colour threads, are knitted on one and the same stitch row and not in successive rows, the various coloured threads being delivered to the needles according to the selection of a pattern to be produced;

   the control and the displacements of the sinkers (13) for the formation of the plush loops are carried out by means of a selection system (S) causing them to penetrate between the needles (7) by two predetermined amounts, in such a way that the thread loops around one or other of the two superposed zones (14, 15) that the nose of the sinkers (13) has, this taking place according to the designs to be produced;

   after producing the fabric, a finishing treatment is carried out [sic] by shearing at a level lying above the loops (b) of short length, thus making it possible to obtain a relief velour with multi-colour unsheared (NR) and sheared (R) loops.

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