Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
  • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
  • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
  • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
  • A61K2800/4322—Direct dyes in preparations for temporarily coloring the hair further containing an oxidizing agent
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

• the subject of the present invention is a process for coloring or lightening human keratin fibers involving an anhydrous composition (A) comprising a or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine, one or more basic amino acids, and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, when the process is a coloring process then the anhydrous composition (A) is free from organic amine and composition (B) comprises one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes.
• It relates to a multi-compartment device, at least one of which comprises the aforementioned anhydrous cosmetic composition (A), another the above-mentioned composition (B) and a last one the aforementioned oxidizing composition (C).
• oxidation or permanent staining uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.
• oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access colored species by a process of oxidative condensation.
• the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
• couplers chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
• couplers the variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.
• direct or semi-permanent coloring The method conventionally used in direct dyeing consists in applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers, to be allowed to pausate to allow the molecules to penetrate, by diffusion, into the interior of the body. the fiber, then rinse them.
• the direct dyes generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. This type of process does not require the use of an oxidizing agent to develop the coloring. However, it is not excluded to implement in order to obtain with coloring, a lightening effect. We then speak of direct or semi-permanent coloration in lightening conditions.
• the permanent or semi-permanent coloring processes under lightening conditions therefore consist in using, with the dye composition, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
• This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers.
• the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide.
• peroxygenated salts such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.
• the processes for lightening human keratin fibers consist in using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
• This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers.
• the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide.
• peroxygenated salts such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.
• the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but who may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp (tingling). As for the option of purely and simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional alkalizing agents, this does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these alkalinizing agents do not provide sufficient lightening of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent.
• One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide methods for dyeing or brightening human keratin fibers used in the presence of an oxidizing agent which do not have the drawbacks of those used with the existing compositions, disadvantages caused by the presence of significant amounts of ammonia, but which remain at least as effective in terms of the power of the coloration obtained, the chromaticity, the homogeneity of the coloration along the fiber for the coloring processes and in terms of lightening and homogeneity of the latter for lightening processes.
• anhydrous composition comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, in another a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine and one or more amino acids and in another, a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
• the anhydrous composition (A) is free of organic amine and the composition (B) comprises one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes.
• the human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.
• the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) more particularly has a water content equal to 0 or less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, with respect to weight of said composition.
• the water may also be in the form of bound water, such as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention.
• the composition used does not comprise a direct dye or oxidation dye precursor (bases and couplers) usually used for the dyeing of human keratinous fibers or else, if it includes, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition and the aqueous composition comprising the oxidizing agent.
• bases and couplers usually used for the dyeing of human keratinous fibers
• the composition would be optionally tinted, that is to say, one would not observe staining effect of keratin fibers.
• the lightening process is carried out without oxidation base, coupler or direct dye.
• the anhydrous composition (A) is free of organic amine, in particular the anhydrous composition is free of organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12 (this value corresponds to the highest basicity function).
• the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances.
• fatty substance means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0%). , 1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups.
• the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents in the the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylpentacyclosiloxane.
• the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones. It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4).
• these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.
• the lower C 6 -C 16 alkanes are linear, branched, and possibly cyclic.
• hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
• the fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
• cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture cetylstearyl alcohol
• octyldodecanol 2-butyloctanol
• 2-hexyldecanol 2-undecylpentadecanol
• oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol may be mentioned; .
• the fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
• the wax or the non-silicone waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, wax of rice, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
• the fatty substances do not comprise a C 2 -C 3 oxyalkylene unit or a glycerol unit.
• the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
• the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.
• the fatty substances are different from the fatty acids.
• the fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, silicones.
• the fatty substance (s) of the composition according to the invention are non-silicone.
• the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof.
• the anhydrous cosmetic composition has a fatty substance content advantageously between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, and even more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition. .
• the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants.
• the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants. or among anionic surfactants.
• the nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
• the oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.
• the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from C 8 -C 30 alcohols, oxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters. and polyoxyethylenesorbitol.
• the C 8 -C 40 alcohols are preferably used.
• mono- or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: RO- [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] m -H in which R represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 40 and preferably C 8 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
• lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL). ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL- OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 moles of glycerol.
• the alcohol can be a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture.
• the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 / C 10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the alcohol with C 10 / C 12 with 1 mole of glycerol and the alcohol with C 12 to 1.5 moles of glycerol.
• the surfactant present in the anhydrous composition is a nonionic surfactant.
• the content of surfactants in the anhydrous composition is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition.
• the cosmetic composition (A) may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; conditioning agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents.
• the adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A).
• the composition may comprise one or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof.
• organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
• the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
• quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by the Rheox Company, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay, Quaternium-18 Hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5 EUG Bentone Gel, Bentone Gel IPP, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8, Bentone Gel VS38 by Rhéox and Simagel M, Simagel SI 345 by Biophil.
• the composition (B) has a monethanolamine content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.
• the content of basic amino acid (s) it varies more particularly from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.
• the weight ratio of monoethanolamine / basic amino acid is preferably from 0.1 to 10, more preferably from 0.3 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 5.
• composition (B) also comprises one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes.
• the oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
• the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
• paraphenylenediamines there may be mentioned, for example, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N- bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino 2-
• paraphenylenediamine paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6 ethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
• bis-phenylalkylenediamines mention may be made, by way of example, of N, N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) 1,3-diamino propanol, N , N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N ' -bis (ethyl) N, N ' -bis- (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenedi
• para-aminophenols para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4- amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl phenol, 4-amino 2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
• ortho-aminophenols mention may be made, for example, of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts.
• heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
• pyridine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in the patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1 153 196 such as 2,5-diamino pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts.
• pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application. FR 2801308 .
• pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-y
• pyrimidine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399 ; JP 88-169571 ; JP 05-63124 ; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when there is a tautomeric equilibrium.
• 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when there is a t
• 4-5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -methoxyethyl) pyrazole Preferably, use will be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -pyrazole and / or one of its salts.
• diamino N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in the application FR-A-2,886,136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino- 6,7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino- 1,2-dimethyl-1,2-di
• 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof will be preferred.
• heterocyclic bases use will preferably be made of 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2- a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof.
• composition (B) of the dyeing process may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers.
• couplers there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
• 1,3-dihydroxybenzene 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene and 2,4-diamino-1- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino 4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido 1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1- ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, ⁇ -naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine 3,5-diamino-2,6-d
• the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
• the oxidation base (s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the content of the coupler (s), if they are (are) present, are each advantageously from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition (B) of the coloring process may also comprise one or more direct dyes.
• direct dyes the latter are more particularly chosen from ionic or nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species.
• Suitable direct dyes mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
• the dyes of this family are derived from methine, azomethine, mono- and di-arylmethane compounds, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanines, azacabocyanines and their isomers, diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanines, hemicyanins
• the dyes of the carbonyl family mention may be made, for example, of the dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapy
• the dyes of the family of cyclic azines there may be mentioned in particular azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine, pyronine.
• the nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitro pyridinic direct dyes.
• porphyrin or phthalocyanine dyes it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon.
• direct dyes By way of example of particularly suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of the nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; azomethines; methinic; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.
• azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines)
• quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes
• direct azine dyes xanthenics
• These dyes may be monochromophoric dyes (that is to say comprising only one dye) or polychromophoric, preferably di- or tri-chromophoric dyes; the chromophores which may be identical or different, of the same chemical family or not.
• a polychromophoric dye comprises several radicals each derived from an absorbing molecule in the visible range between 400 and 800 nm. In addition, this absorbance of the dye does not require any prior oxidation thereof, or association with other (s) species (s) chemical (s).
• the chromophores are connected to each other by means of at least one linker which may or may not be cationic.
• the linker is a linear, branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl chain or cyclic, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group comprising (CO, SO 2 ), optionally interrupted by at least one heterocyclic condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one phenyl or substituted naphthyl group or not, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted with two optionally substituted C 1 -C 15 alkyl groups; the linking arm does not comprise a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group.
• heterocycles or aromatic rings are substituted, they are, for example, with one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy or C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy or acetylamino group.
• amino substituted with one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or both radicals which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle , optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C 1 -C 2 alkoxy radical; a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.
• azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic dyes described in the patent applications WO 95/15144 , WO 95/01772 and EP 714954 ; FR 2189006 , FR 2285851 , FR-2140205 , EP 1378544 , EP 1674073 .
• the C 1 -C 4 alkyl or alkoxy group preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, butyl, methoxy or ethoxy.
• indoamine dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethlyamino-5- [bis- ( ⁇ -4'-hydroxyethyl) amino] anilino-1,4-benzoquinone 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,4-benzoquinone - 3-N (2'-Chloro-4'-hydroxy) phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine 3-N (3'-Chloro-4'-methylamino) phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine 3- [4'-N- (ethyl, carbamylmethyl) amino] -phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.
• horns X - X - X - X - X - X - X - X - X - X - X - X - X - X - represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate.
• polychromophoric dyes mention may be made more particularly of azo and / or azomethine (hydrazonic) di- or trichromophoric dyes, symmetrical or not, comprising on the one hand at least one aromatic heterocycle comprising 5 or 6 ring members, optionally fused, comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said heterocycle and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen), and on the other hand, at least one phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally substituted, optionally bearing at least one OR group with R representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, an optionally substituted phenyl ring, or at least one N (R ') group 2 with R 'identical or not, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted alkyl radical C 1 -C 6 , an optionally substituted phenyl ring; the radicals R 'which can form, with the radicals R
• aromatic cationic heterocycle there may be mentioned, preferably, 5- or 6-membered rings comprising 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms, preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle being optionally further fused to a benzene ring.
• the heterocycle may optionally comprise another heteroatom different from nitrogen, such as sulfur or oxygen. If the heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, they are, for example, with one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy or C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy group.
• the linker is a linear, branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl chain or cyclic, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group comprising (CO, SO 2 ), optionally interrupted by at least one heterocyclic condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one substituted phenyl or naphthyl group or not, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted with two optionally substituted C 1 -C 15 alkyl groups; the linking arm does not comprise a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group
• the dye may comprise identical or different chromophores.
• EP 1637566 EP 1619221 , EP 1634926 , EP 1619220 , EP 1672033 , EP 1671954 , EP 1671955 , EP 1679312 , EP 1671951 , EP167952 , EP167971 , WO06 / 063866 , WO 06/063867 , WO 06/063868 , WO 06/063869 , EP 1408919 , EP 1377264 , EP 1377262 , EP 1377261 , EP 1377263 , EP 1399425 , EP 1399117 , EP 1416909 , EP 1399116 , EP 1671560 .
• EP 1006153 which describes dyes comprising two anthraquinone chromophores connected by means of a cationic linker
• EP 1433472 , EP 1433474 , EP 1433471 and EP 1433473 which describe identical or different dichromophoric dyes, connected by a cationic link or not
• EP 6291333 which describes in particular dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore to which are connected two azo-type chromophores or diazacarbocyanine or one of its isomers.
• the natural direct dyes that can be used include lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.
• the direct dye (s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight.
• composition (B) used in the dyeing process may comprise one and / or the other type of dye, it may optionally correspond to two dyeing compositions, one comprising the oxidation dye (s), the other, the direct dye (s).
• composition (B) used in the dyeing process or in the lightening process may be an aqueous composition or not.
• aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
• the composition (B) is an aqueous composition. It may optionally comprise an organic solvent.
• organic solvents examples include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
• the solvent or solvents if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (B), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.
• the cosmetic composition (B) may also contain various adjuvants such as those mentioned especially in the context of the composition (A), such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic and cationic polymers, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; conditioning agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents.
• the adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A).
• the composition may also include one or more organic thickeners.
• thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones with a fatty chain (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules).
• fatty acid amides diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide
• the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum). ), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.
• the content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
• a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
• the oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for example alkali metal or alkaline persulfates, perborates and percarbonates; -terrous as well as peracids and their precursors.
• This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide and especially in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide) whose concentration may vary, more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more particularly between 0.5 and 20% by weight. and even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight of the oxidizing composition.
• the oxidizing agent may also comprise an oxidizing agent preferably chosen from peroxygenated salts.
• the oxidizing agent is not chosen from peroxygenated salts and peracids and precursors.
• the oxidizing composition may be aqueous or non-aqueous.
• aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
• the composition (C) is an aqueous composition. It may also include one or more organic solvents.
• organic solvents examples include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
• the solvent or solvents if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (C), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.
• the oxidizing composition may comprise one or more acidifying agents.
• acidifying agents mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
• the pH of the oxidizing composition (C), when aqueous, is less than 7.
• the oxidizing composition (C) may also contain other ingredients conventionally used in the field, such as those detailed previously in the context of compositions (A) and (B).
• the oxidizing composition (C) is in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel.
• a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of the anhydrous composition (A), of the composition (B) and of the composition (B), is applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet. the oxidizing aqueous composition (C) mentioned above.
• the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) range from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0, 3 to 3.
• the weight ratio R1 (A) + (B) / (C) varies from 0.5 to 1.
• the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, successively and without intermediate rinsing.
• the compositions (A), then (B), then (C) or (B) and (A) and then (C) are applied.
• the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) are more particularly from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0.3 to 3.
• the mixture present on the fibers (resulting either from the extemporaneous mixture of the compositions (A), (B) and (C) or from their successive partial or total application) is left in place to a duration, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes.
• the temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.
• human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.
• composition applied to the hair comprising the compositions (A), (B) and (C)
• its content would be less than or equal to 0.03.
• % by weight of the final composition (expressed as NH 3 ), more particularly less than or equal to 0.01% by weight relative to the final composition.
• the final composition results from the mixing of the compositions (A), (B) and (C); these mixtures being made either before application on the keratinous fibers (extemporaneous preparation) or directly on the keratinous fibers (successive applications with or without premixes and without intermediate rinsing).
• the amount of basifying agent (s) is greater than that of ammonia (expressed as NH 3 ). But the compositions (A), (B) and (C) preferably do not include ammonia.
• the composition according to the invention obtained after mixing the compositions (A), (B) and (C) described above is such that, after mixing, the amount of fatty substance is greater than 20% by weight, of preferably greater than 25% by weight and even more preferably greater than 30% by weight.
• compositions are prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed in g%): ⁇ b> ⁇ u> Composition A ⁇ / u> ⁇ /b> Sorbitan mono-laurate oxyethylenated (4OE) 21.67 Pyrogenic silica with hydrophobic character 11
• Vaseline oil Qs 100 Paraphenylene diamine 6.55 resorcinol 4.95 2-methylresorcinol 1.86 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCI 0.15 Sodium metabisulphite 0455 Erythorbic acid 0.31 Pure monoethanolamine 40.07 arginine 7.00 Water Qs 100
• Each mixture is then applied to a lock of natural hair 90% white (BN), and a lock of hair with 90% of white permed (BP).
• the "mixing / wicking" bath ratio is 10/1 (g / g), respectively.
• the break time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C.
• composition of the invention leads to a powerful and low-selective mat.
• compositions are prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed in g%): ⁇ b> ⁇ u> Composition A ⁇ / u> ⁇ /b> Sorbitan mono-laurate oxyethylenated (4OE) 21.67 Pyrogenic silica with hydrophobic character 11
• Vaseline oil Qs 100 1-hydroxy-4-amino-benzene 3.27 2-amino-3-hydroxypiridine 3.30 Sodium metabisulphite 0,455 Erythorbic acid 0.31
• Pure monoethanolamine 40.0 arginine 7.00 Oleic alcohol polyglycerolated with 2 moles of glycerol 2.1 Oleic alcohol polyglycerolated with 4 moles of glycerol 3.0
• Each mixture is then applied to a lock of natural hair 90% white (BN), and a lock of hair with 90% of white permed (BP).
• the "mixing / wicking" bath ratio is 10/1 (g / g), respectively.
• the break time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this time, the locks are rinsed, then washed with Elsève multivitamin shampoo, and dried.
• composition of the invention leads to a powerful copper and low selective.
• composition B1 invention
• composition B2 comparative

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• 2009
  • 2009-12-18 CN CN200910113684A patent/CN101780015A/zh active Pending
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