EP0034977A1 - Industrial process for making jewellery, especially rings, rather of precious metal, provided with set stones, device for performing said process of obtaining jewellery - Google Patents
Industrial process for making jewellery, especially rings, rather of precious metal, provided with set stones, device for performing said process of obtaining jewellery Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0034977A1 EP0034977A1 EP81400235A EP81400235A EP0034977A1 EP 0034977 A1 EP0034977 A1 EP 0034977A1 EP 81400235 A EP81400235 A EP 81400235A EP 81400235 A EP81400235 A EP 81400235A EP 0034977 A1 EP0034977 A1 EP 0034977A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- hole
- ring
- groove
- stones
- punch
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 239000010970 precious metal Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 7
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 11
- 238000005553 drilling Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000010432 diamond Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910003460 diamond Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000003801 milling Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 210000000078 claw Anatomy 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 239000011435 rock Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 10
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 10
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000010437 gem Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000003754 machining Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000005489 elastic deformation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229910001751 gemstone Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N platinum Chemical compound [Pt] BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OANVFVBYPNXRLD-UHFFFAOYSA-M propyromazine bromide Chemical compound [Br-].C12=CC=CC=C2SC2=CC=CC=C2N1C(=O)C(C)[N+]1(C)CCCC1 OANVFVBYPNXRLD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 229910001369 Brass Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910045601 alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000956 alloy Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002969 artificial stone Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010951 brass Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004027 cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000000295 complement effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009749 continuous casting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000002739 metals Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052697 platinum Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T29/00—Metal working
- Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T29/00—Metal working
- Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
- Y10T29/49588—Jewelry or locket making
- Y10T29/4959—Human adornment device making
- Y10T29/49593—Finger ring making
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an industrial process for manufacturing jewelry, in particular rings, preferably made of precious metal, comprising gemstones; it also relates to the equipment usable for the production of this jewelry and the jewelry thus obtained.
- a ring is suitably calibrated of said metal, then holes in this ring are drilled in a cylindrical shape, the stone to be placed in the opening thus formed crimp, then crimping is carried out by bringing the metal surrounding the pebble above the edge thereof, by hammering for example.
- rings can be produced as described above by using claws which, after placing the stone in a suitably arranged seat, will be folded over the stone.
- the base has the shape of a ring and the surface on which the stones will be arranged will be called the external surface.
- the drilling according to the invention can be carried out by any known means. Made from the outer surface of the ring, this drilling is carried out so that the hole obtained has two diameters: a relatively large diameter in the vicinity of the outer surface of the ring and a smaller diameter in the vicinity of the surface inside of the ring.
- This arrangement of the hole is made so that, on the one hand, the dimensions of the larger diameter hole correspond (taking account of the pre-setting groove) to the dimensions of the stones to be crimped but, on the other hand, the part "inner" of the ring still has enough metal to present the desired mechanical strength.
- This drilling of a cylindrical hole with two diameters is carried out without difficulty using a "drill" said to have two diameters.
- the pre-tightening groove can also be produced by any known means, in particular by a reamer whose axis of the tool is offset from the axis of the hole into which it has entered.
- the shape of the throat is not critical; however, this shape can advantageously be, in section, triangular; in fact, the shape of the groove is designed to adapt as exactly as possible to the shape of the stone to be set.
- the position of the groove inside the hole is important given that the stone must be crimped by "snap-fastening" in said groove.
- the snap-fastening of the stone implies, during the positioning of said stone, a slight elastic deformation of the part of the metal forming the "outside" edge of the groove. It is therefore necessary that the groove is positioned so that this elastic deformation is possible.
- the outer surface of the ring is produced, for example by milling, at least one groove which, cooperating with the presetting groove located in the immediate vicinity of this surface, gives rise to claws which can facilitate the latching of the stone.
- these grooves are not essential since, thanks to a suitable choice of the position and the shape of the presetting groove, it is possible to obtain "edges" sufficiently elastic to allow, without grooves, the of the stones.
- the groove (s) can (can) be made along the entire circumference of the ring and passing through the median plane of the holes; these grooves can also be arranged perpendicular to the lateral faces of the ring according to the diameter of each hole or at equal distance between these holes. It is easily understood that by choosing the positioning and the width of the grooves appropriately, cuts of very different shapes and "deformability" are produced.
- the essential advantage of the industrial process according to the invention is that the various operations can be automated in themselves and in their succession. Since the operations are automatable in themselves, this implies that the diameters of the bore and the groove can be exactly adjusted to the dimensions of the stones to be crimped; this precision allows in particular the setting of contiguous stones.
- the angle of the groove is also adaptable to the stone and to the setting process; finally, it is possible to choose suitably, still depending in particular on the stone, the distance from the groove to the outer surface of the ring.
- the various operations can be programmed one after the other on the same machine or on different machines, which makes it possible to automatically produce series of rings.
- the materials that can be used as metal to make the "ring" are very varied; either precious metals such as gold or platinum or more ordinary metals or alloys such as brass can be used. It will simply be necessary to ensure that the metal used has suitable elastic and mechanical properties; thus, when said metal is gold, it is desirable to use gold having the elasticity of rolled gold and a non-porous structure.
- This same machine can also include a milling device producing the desired groove or grooves on the outer surface of the ring.
- This milling device can be electronically controlled for its operation (frequency and depth of the lines) and electronically coupled with the control system described above.
- the mortising is carried out by introducing into each hole, from the outer surface of the ring, a small punch which is inclined relative to the axis of the hole and driven back and forth according to its axis, tears off during a transverse movement of the parts of the metal of the ring so as to produce a substantially frustoconical structure (with circular, square, rectangular or diamond section, depending on the shape of the chisel and its control) of the internal part the hole.
Landscapes
- Adornments (AREA)
- Drilling And Boring (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La présente invention concerne un procédé industriel de fabrication de bijoux, notamment de bagues, de préférence en métal précieux, comportant des pierres serties; elle concerne également l'appareillage utilisable pour la réalisation de ces bijoux et les bijoux ainsi obtenus.The present invention relates to an industrial process for manufacturing jewelry, in particular rings, preferably made of precious metal, comprising gemstones; it also relates to the equipment usable for the production of this jewelry and the jewelry thus obtained.
Pour fabriquer des bagues, par exemple en métal précieux, comportant des pierres serties, on réalise en général un anneau convenablement calibré dudit métal, puis on perce dans cet anneau des trous de forme cylindrique, on place dans l'ouverture ainsi ménagée la pierre à sertir, puis on réalise le sertissage en amenant le métal entourant la pierreau-dessus du bord de celle-ci, par martelage par exemple.To make rings, for example of precious metal, comprising crimped stones, a ring is suitably calibrated of said metal, then holes in this ring are drilled in a cylindrical shape, the stone to be placed in the opening thus formed crimp, then crimping is carried out by bringing the metal surrounding the pebble above the edge thereof, by hammering for example.
Il est connu qu'il peut y avoir intérêt à modifier la section des trous-réalisés dans l'anneau (sur la face intérieure de celui-ci) pour rendre cette section carrée; cette opération est généralement réalisée manuellement, à l'aide d'une lime par exemple.It is known that it may be advantageous to modify the section of the holes-made in the ring (on the inner face of the latter) to make this section square; this operation is generally carried out manually, using a file for example.
Il est également connu que l'on peut réaliser des bagues telles que décrites ci-dessus en employant des griffes qui, après mise en place de la pierre dans une assise convenablement aménagée seront rabattues au-dessus de la pierre.It is also known that rings can be produced as described above by using claws which, after placing the stone in a suitably arranged seat, will be folded over the stone.
Ces divers procédés en sont restés essentiellement au stade artisanal et il y a intérêt à réaliser, notamment pour des bagues du type des alliances, une industrialisation de l'opération de sertissage. C'est là l'objet de la présente invention.These various processes have remained essentially at the artisanal stage and it is advantageous to carry out, in particular for rings of the alliance type, an industrialization of the crimping operation. This is the object of the present invention.
Le procédé selon la présente invention est caractérisé en ce que l'on utilise comme produit de départ une base en un métal élastique non poreux présentant de bonnes propriétés mécaniques; cette base, qui peut être par exemple un anneau en un métal précieux, est alors soumise aux opérations suivantes :
- - perçage, dans ladite base, d'un trou cylindrique de dimensions convenables,
- - réalisation sur le pourtour de ce trou et à une certaine distance de la surface sur laquelle apparaitront les pierres serties, d'une gorge de présertissage dont les dimensions sont adaptées à celles de la pierre,
- - et mise en place de la pierre, dans la gorge de présertissage, par encliquetage.
- - drilling, in said base, a cylindrical hole of suitable dimensions,
- - realization on the periphery of this hole and at a certain distance from the surface on which the set stones will appear, of a pre-setting groove whose dimensions are adapted to those of the stone,
- - and positioning of the stone, in the presetting groove, by snap-fastening.
On précise ci-après ces diverses opérations en prenant plus particulièrement l'exemple des bagues,auquel cas la base a la forme d'un anneau et la surface sur laquelle les.pierres seront disposées sera dite surface extérieure. Le perçage selon l'invention peut être réalisé par tout moyen connu. Réalisé à partir de la surface extérieure de l'anneau, ce perçage est effectué de façon que le trou obtenu présente deux diamètres : un diamètre relativement important au voisinage de la surface extérieure de l'anneau et un diamètre plus faible au voisinage de la surface intérieure de l'anneau. Cette disposition du trou est réalisée de façon que, d'une part, les dimensions du trou de plus fort diamètre correspondent (en tenant compte de la gorge de présertissage) aux dimensions des pierres à sertir mais que, d'autre part, la partie "intérieure" de l'anneau comporte encore suffisamment de métal pour présenter la résistance mécanique souhaitée.These various operations are specified below, taking more particularly the example of the rings, in which case the base has the shape of a ring and the surface on which the stones will be arranged will be called the external surface. The drilling according to the invention can be carried out by any known means. Made from the outer surface of the ring, this drilling is carried out so that the hole obtained has two diameters: a relatively large diameter in the vicinity of the outer surface of the ring and a smaller diameter in the vicinity of the surface inside of the ring. This arrangement of the hole is made so that, on the one hand, the dimensions of the larger diameter hole correspond (taking account of the pre-setting groove) to the dimensions of the stones to be crimped but, on the other hand, the part "inner" of the ring still has enough metal to present the desired mechanical strength.
Ce perçage d'un trou ,cylindrique à deux diamètres s'effectue sans difficulté à l'aide d'un "foret" dit à deux diamètres.This drilling of a cylindrical hole with two diameters is carried out without difficulty using a "drill" said to have two diameters.
La réalisation de la gorge de présertissage peut également être effectuée par tout moyen connu, notamment par un alésoir dont l'axe de l'outil se décentre par rapport à l'axe du trou dans lequel il est entré.The pre-tightening groove can also be produced by any known means, in particular by a reamer whose axis of the tool is offset from the axis of the hole into which it has entered.
La forme de la gorge n'est pas déterminante; cependant, cette forme peut être avantageusement, en coupe, triangulaire; de fait, la forme de la gorge est prévue pour s'adapter aussi exactement que possible à la forme de la pierre qui sera sertie.The shape of the throat is not critical; however, this shape can advantageously be, in section, triangular; in fact, the shape of the groove is designed to adapt as exactly as possible to the shape of the stone to be set.
La position de la gorge à l'intérieur du trou est importante compte tenu de ce que la pierre doit être sertie par "encliquetage" dans ladite gorge. L'encliquetage de la pierre implique, lors de la mise en place de ladite pierre, une légère déformation élastique de la partie du métal formant le bord "extérieur" de la gorge. Il convient donc que la gorge soit positionnée de telle sorte que cette déformation élastique soit possible.The position of the groove inside the hole is important given that the stone must be crimped by "snap-fastening" in said groove. The snap-fastening of the stone implies, during the positioning of said stone, a slight elastic deformation of the part of the metal forming the "outside" edge of the groove. It is therefore necessary that the groove is positioned so that this elastic deformation is possible.
Selon une des réalisations préférées de l'invention, on réalise, à la surface extérieure de l'anneau, par exemple par fraisage, au moins une rainure qui, coopérant avec la gorge de présertissage située au voisinage immédiat de cette surface, donne naissance à des griffes qui peuvent faciliter l'encliquetage de la pierre. Cependant, comme indiqué ci-dessus, ces rainures ne sont pas indispensables puisque, grâce à un choix convenable de la position et de la forme de la gorge de présertissage, on peut obtenir des "bords" suffisamment élastiques pour, sans rainures, permettre l'encliquetage des pierres.According to one of the preferred embodiments of the invention, the outer surface of the ring is produced, for example by milling, at least one groove which, cooperating with the presetting groove located in the immediate vicinity of this surface, gives rise to claws which can facilitate the latching of the stone. However, as indicated above, these grooves are not essential since, thanks to a suitable choice of the position and the shape of the presetting groove, it is possible to obtain "edges" sufficiently elastic to allow, without grooves, the of the stones.
La (ou les) rainure(s) peut (peuvent) être faite(s) selon toute la circonférence de l'anneau et en passant par le plan médian des trous; on peut également disposer ces rainures perpendiculairement aux faces latérales de l'anneau selon le diamètre de chaque trou ou à égale distance entre ces trous. On conçoit aisément qu'en choisissant convenablement le positionnement et la largeur des rainures on réalise des découpes de formes et de "déformabilité" très diverses.The groove (s) can (can) be made along the entire circumference of the ring and passing through the median plane of the holes; these grooves can also be arranged perpendicular to the lateral faces of the ring according to the diameter of each hole or at equal distance between these holes. It is easily understood that by choosing the positioning and the width of the grooves appropriately, cuts of very different shapes and "deformability" are produced.
Dans une réalisation complémentaire selon l'invention, on a pu modifier la forme de l'ouverture, du côté de la face interne de l'anneau, dudit trou cylindrique radial. Il est connu en effet en bijouterie qu'il peut être souhaitable que la forme de cette ouverture soit carrée, rectangulaire ou en losange. Pour modifier ladite ouverture, on a réalisé un poinçon dont l'axe est incliné de façon convenable par rapport à l'axe du trou cylindrique, qui travaille par mortaisage et qui est animé d'un mouvement déterminé.In a complementary embodiment according to the invention, it was possible to modify the shape of the opening, on the side of the internal face of the ring, of said radial cylindrical hole. It is known in fact in jewelry that it may be desirable for the shape of this opening to be square, rectangular or diamond. To modify said opening, a punch has been produced whose axis is inclined in a suitable manner with respect to the axis of the cylindrical hole, which works by slotting and which is driven by a determined movement.
L'intérêt essentiel du procédé industriel selon l'invention est que les diverses opérations sont automatisables en elles-mêmes et dans leur succession. Les opérations étant automatisables en elles-mêmes, cela implique que les diamètres du perçage et de la gorge peuvent être exactement ajustés aux dimensions de pierres à sertir; cette précision permet notamment le sertissage de pierres jointives. De plus, l'angle de la gorge est également adaptable à la pierre et au procédé de sertissage; enfin, il est possible de choisir convenablement, toujours en fonction notamment de la pierre, la distance de la gorge à la surface extérieure de l'anneau.The essential advantage of the industrial process according to the invention is that the various operations can be automated in themselves and in their succession. Since the operations are automatable in themselves, this implies that the diameters of the bore and the groove can be exactly adjusted to the dimensions of the stones to be crimped; this precision allows in particular the setting of contiguous stones. In addition, the angle of the groove is also adaptable to the stone and to the setting process; finally, it is possible to choose suitably, still depending in particular on the stone, the distance from the groove to the outer surface of the ring.
Ces diverses opérations sont réalisables à l'aide d'éléments industriels connus qui travaillent avec une précision qui peut être de l'ordre du centième de millimètre.These various operations can be carried out using known industrial elements which work with a precision which can be of the order of a hundredth of a millimeter.
De plus, les diverses opérations peuvent être programmées les unes à la suite des autres sur une même machine ou sur des machines différentes, ce qui permet de réaliser automatiquement des séries de bagues.In addition, the various operations can be programmed one after the other on the same machine or on different machines, which makes it possible to automatically produce series of rings.
Les matériaux utilisables comme métal pour réaliser "l'anneau" sont très variés; on peut employer soit des métaux précieux comme l'or ou le platine, soit des métaux ou alliages plus ordinaires tels que le laiton. Il faudra simplement faire en sorte que le métal utilisé présente des propriétés élastiques et mécaniques convenables; ainsi, lorsque ledit métal est de l'or, il est souhaitable d'employer de l'or ayant l'élasticité de l'or laminé et une structure non poreuse.The materials that can be used as metal to make the "ring" are very varied; either precious metals such as gold or platinum or more ordinary metals or alloys such as brass can be used. It will simply be necessary to ensure that the metal used has suitable elastic and mechanical properties; thus, when said metal is gold, it is desirable to use gold having the elasticity of rolled gold and a non-porous structure.
Comme pierre, on peut utiliser les pierres précieuses et notamment le diamant; on pourrait également utiliser des pierres synthétiques ou n'importe quelle pierre de dureté suffisante.As a stone, it is possible to use precious stones and in particular diamond; one could also use synthetic stones or any stone of sufficient hardness.
Le procédé selon l'invention a été décrit pour la réalisation des bagues serties de pierres; il est clair, pour le spécialiste, que le même procédé et des appareils analogues sont utilisables pour la préparation de bijoux de forme quelconque, qui doivent comporter des pierres serties. L'exemple non limitatif ci-après illustre l'invention.The method according to the invention has been described for the production of rings set with stones; it is clear to the specialist that the same process and analogous apparatus can be used for the preparation of jewelry of any shape, which must include gemstones. The nonlimiting example below illustrates the invention.
On veut, par exemple, préparer une bague de taille 52 d'un modèle à griffes (la circonférence intérieure de la bague est de 52mm), sertie de diamants de 5/100 de carat en taille "diamant" (dont le diamètre moyen est de 2,30 mm). L'épaisseur de l'anneau sera de 1,6 mm et sa largeur de 2,7 mm. Cet anneau en or provenant du tronçonnage d'un tube obtenu par coulée continue a été surface et calibré par des moyens connus.We want, for example, to prepare a size 52 ring of a claw model (the inner circumference of the ring is 52mm), set with 5/100 carat diamonds in "diamond" cut (whose average diameter is 2.30 mm). The thickness of the ring will be 1.6 mm and its width 2.7 mm. This gold ring from the cutting of a tube obtained by continuous casting was surface and calibrated by known means.
Il est amené sur un appareil qui réalisera les opérations suivantes :
- - perçage de 22 trous cylindriques par foret étagé, le diamètre du trou extérieur étant de 2,00 mm,
- - réalisation dans chaque trou d'une gorge par une fraise, cette gorge étant située à 0,30 mm de la surface extérieure de l'anneau, ayant un diamètre de 2,50 mm et un angle au sommet du même ordre que l'angle correspondant du diamant,
- - découpage par une fraise à denture droite de rainures d'une profondeur de 0.60 mm et d'une largeur de 1,40 mm ; ces rainures sont automatiquement positionnées, par la machine, d'une part, selon un diamètre desdits trous cylindriques (diamètre parallèle à l'axe de l'anneau,) d'autre part, entre les trous (parallèle à l'axe de l'anneau, la largeur de la fraise étant 0,25 mm et la profondeur du fraisage de 0,60 mm) et,enfin, dans le plan médian de l'anneau (largear de fraise 0,80 mm et profondeur de fraisage 0,60 mm) ; ces rainures déterminent ainsi quatre griffes par trou,
- - chaque trou reçoit alors un petit diamant par une simple opération d'encliquetage.
- - drilling of 22 cylindrical holes by stepped drill, the diameter of the external hole being 2.00 mm,
- - Achievement in each hole of a groove by a cutter, this groove being located 0.30 mm from the outer surface of the ring, having a diameter of 2.50 mm and an angle at the top of the same order as the corresponding angle of the diamond,
- - cutting by grooves with straight teeth of grooves with a depth of 0.60 mm and a width of 1.40 mm; these grooves are automatically positioned, by the machine, on the one hand, along a diameter of said cylindrical holes (diameter parallel to the axis of the ring,) on the other hand, between the holes (parallel to the axis of l ring, the width of the cutter being 0.25 mm and the depth of milling 0.60 mm) and, finally, in the median plane of the ring (width of cutter 0.80 mm and milling depth 0, 60 mm); these grooves thus determine four claws per hole,
- - each hole then receives a small diamond by a simple click operation.
Toutes les opérations préparatoires du sertissage classique sont ainsi supprimées.All preparatory operations for conventional crimping are thus eliminated.
Une machine permettant de réaliser industriellement peut être décrite succinctement comme suit :
- L'anneau convenablement préparé est mis en place sur un axe qui pourra tourner d'un angle donné grâce à une commande extérieure ; cet anneau est attaqué, d'une part, par un forêt de perçage à deux diamètres qui fera des trous cylindriques à chaque position d'arrêt de l'anneau et, d'autre part, par un "quill" (portant en bout un alésoir qui, après avoir été mis en place dans le trou de plus grand diamètre, s'excentre en tournant sur lui-même de façon à réaliser la gorge de présertissage). Ce "quill" n'entrera en opération que lorsqu'un trou convenable dans l'anneau se présentera devant lui.
- L'ensemble des opérations est commandé par un dispositif électronique qui permettra de régler notamment :
- - l'angle de rotation de l'anneau entre chaque usinage,
- - la profondeur et la durée des usinages (perçage des trous et alésage par le quill),
- - et la synchronisation des usinages et de la rotation de l'anneau.
- The suitably prepared ring is placed on an axis which can rotate by a given angle thanks to an external control; this ring is attacked, on the one hand, by a drill hole with two diameters which will make cylindrical holes at each stop position of the ring and, on the other hand, by a "quill" (carrying at the end a reamer which, after having been placed in the hole of larger diameter, eccentric by turning on itself so as to produce the presetting groove). This "quill" will only come into operation when a suitable hole in the ring appears before it.
- All operations are controlled by an electronic device which will allow you to adjust:
- - the angle of rotation of the ring between each machining,
- - the depth and duration of machining (drilling holes and boring by the quill),
- - And the synchronization of the machining and the rotation of the ring.
Cette même machine peut également comporter un dispositif de fraisage réalisant la ou les rainures souhaitées sur la surface extérieure de l'anneau. Ce dispositif de fraisage peut être commandé électroniquement pour son fonctionnement (fréquence et profondeur des raies) et couplé électroniquement avec le système de commande décrit ci-dessus.This same machine can also include a milling device producing the desired groove or grooves on the outer surface of the ring. This milling device can be electronically controlled for its operation (frequency and depth of the lines) and electronically coupled with the control system described above.
Pour réaliser l'ouverture carrée sur la face intérieure des anneaux, on peut soit utiliser la même machine, soit utiliser une machine différente, car la durée de façonnage de cette ouverture carrée est plus longue que la durée de chacune des opérations décrites ci-dessus.To make the square opening on the inside of the rings, you can either use the same machine, or use a different machine, because the duration of shaping of this square opening is longer than the duration of each of the operations described above. .
Le mortaisage s'effectue en introduisant dans chaque trou, à partir de la surface extérieure de l'anneau, un petit poinçon qui est incliné par rapport à l'axe du trou et animé d'un mouvement de va-et-vient suivant son axe, arrache lors d'un mouvement transversal des parties du métal de l'anneau de façon à réaliser une structure sensiblement tronconique (à section circulaire, carrée, rectangulaire ou en losange, selon la forme du burin et sa commande) de la partie interne du trou.The mortising is carried out by introducing into each hole, from the outer surface of the ring, a small punch which is inclined relative to the axis of the hole and driven back and forth according to its axis, tears off during a transverse movement of the parts of the metal of the ring so as to produce a substantially frustoconical structure (with circular, square, rectangular or diamond section, depending on the shape of the chisel and its control) of the internal part the hole.
Claims (7)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| AT81400235T ATE9644T1 (en) | 1980-02-25 | 1981-02-17 | INDUSTRIAL PROCESS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF JEWELRY, ESPECIALLY RINGS WITH SET STONES, PREFERABLY OF PRECIOUS METAL, DEVICE FOR CARRYING OUT THIS PROCESS AND THE OBTAINED JEWELRY. |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8004057 | 1980-02-25 | ||
| FR8004057A FR2476459A1 (en) | 1980-02-25 | 1980-02-25 | INDUSTRIAL PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING JEWELRY, IN PARTICULAR RINGS, PREFERABLY IN PRECIOUS METAL, COMPRISING STAINED STONES |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0034977A1 true EP0034977A1 (en) | 1981-09-02 |
| EP0034977B1 EP0034977B1 (en) | 1984-10-03 |
Family
ID=9238917
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP81400235A Expired EP0034977B1 (en) | 1980-02-25 | 1981-02-17 | Industrial process for making jewellery, especially rings, rather of precious metal, provided with set stones, device for performing said process of obtaining jewellery |
Country Status (8)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US4457056A (en) |
| EP (1) | EP0034977B1 (en) |
| JP (1) | JPS56132902A (en) |
| AT (1) | ATE9644T1 (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1192730A (en) |
| DE (1) | DE3166391D1 (en) |
| ES (1) | ES499859A0 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2476459A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2545241A1 (en) * | 1983-04-26 | 1984-11-02 | Diamant Applic | PROCESS AND DEVICE FOR PREPARING THE SETTING OF PRECIOUS STONES IN A MOUNT OF ANY SHAPE |
| FR2579085A1 (en) * | 1985-03-21 | 1986-09-26 | Diamant Applic | METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING JEWELRY COMPRISING ONE OR MORE ROWS OF STONES AND JEWELS OBTAINED THEREFROM |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ES2328780B2 (en) | 2008-11-25 | 2010-06-01 | Rafael Gomez Sanchez, S.A. | PROCEDURE FOR JEWELRY AND JEWELRY SETTING OBTAINED WITH SUCH PROCEDURE. |
Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2436120A (en) * | 1946-05-22 | 1948-02-17 | Pfeffer David | Interchangeable jewel mounting |
Family Cites Families (17)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US1499818A (en) * | 1922-09-27 | 1924-07-01 | Franconetti August | Gem-seat-grooving tool |
| US1642102A (en) * | 1924-07-18 | 1927-09-13 | Colomb Henri | Jewel setting for watches and method of making same |
| FR627461A (en) * | 1926-05-11 | 1927-10-05 | Universal milling tool for jewelers | |
| US2718051A (en) * | 1946-03-30 | 1955-09-20 | Eversharp Inc | Method of making ball type writing instruments |
| US2749597A (en) * | 1953-02-02 | 1956-06-12 | Fus Walter | Method of mounting stones in jewelry |
| GB841565A (en) * | 1956-07-23 | 1960-07-20 | Shallwin Novelties Ltd | Improvements in or relating to articles of jewellery and of personal adornment |
| US3261072A (en) * | 1963-12-04 | 1966-07-19 | Stanley Joseph | Jewel setting |
| FR1506317A (en) * | 1966-04-28 | 1967-12-22 | Process for setting precious stones, device for implementing this process and products resulting from the application of the process | |
| FR1505450A (en) * | 1966-10-04 | 1967-12-15 | Process for the serial setting of precious stones, device for carrying out this process and resulting products | |
| FR96389E (en) * | 1968-12-30 | 1972-06-16 | Diamants & Joaillerie Henri Fa | Process for serial setting of precious stones. |
| JPS4725664U (en) * | 1971-04-15 | 1972-11-22 | ||
| DE2130319A1 (en) * | 1971-06-18 | 1973-01-04 | Richard Kloetzel | JEWELED BARREL MILL |
| JPS50123589U (en) * | 1974-03-26 | 1975-10-09 | ||
| JPS50125884U (en) * | 1974-03-29 | 1975-10-15 | ||
| BE853288A (en) * | 1977-04-06 | 1977-10-06 | Bowy P V B A | METHOD OF CREATING JEWELERY, AND JEWELERY AND PARTS OF JEWELRY WITH THIS METHOD |
| FR2411586A1 (en) * | 1977-12-13 | 1979-07-13 | Garnier Robert | Mounting for synthetic stones - consists of metal base with hooked arms fitting into slots cut into sides of stone |
| JPS5589313U (en) * | 1978-12-14 | 1980-06-20 |
-
1980
- 1980-02-25 FR FR8004057A patent/FR2476459A1/en active Granted
-
1981
- 1981-02-17 AT AT81400235T patent/ATE9644T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1981-02-17 EP EP81400235A patent/EP0034977B1/en not_active Expired
- 1981-02-17 DE DE8181400235T patent/DE3166391D1/en not_active Expired
- 1981-02-19 ES ES499859A patent/ES499859A0/en active Granted
- 1981-02-24 CA CA000371596A patent/CA1192730A/en not_active Expired
- 1981-02-25 JP JP2555781A patent/JPS56132902A/en active Granted
-
1983
- 1983-06-09 US US06/501,747 patent/US4457056A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Patent Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2436120A (en) * | 1946-05-22 | 1948-02-17 | Pfeffer David | Interchangeable jewel mounting |
Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2545241A1 (en) * | 1983-04-26 | 1984-11-02 | Diamant Applic | PROCESS AND DEVICE FOR PREPARING THE SETTING OF PRECIOUS STONES IN A MOUNT OF ANY SHAPE |
| EP0124436A2 (en) * | 1983-04-26 | 1984-11-07 | DIAMANT APPLICATIONS Société Anonyme dite: | Process and device to prepare the mounting of gem stones in a setting |
| EP0124436A3 (en) * | 1983-04-26 | 1986-08-06 | DIAMANT APPLICATIONS Société Anonyme dite: | Process and device to prepare the mounting of gem stones in a setting |
| FR2579085A1 (en) * | 1985-03-21 | 1986-09-26 | Diamant Applic | METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING JEWELRY COMPRISING ONE OR MORE ROWS OF STONES AND JEWELS OBTAINED THEREFROM |
| EP0197871A1 (en) * | 1985-03-21 | 1986-10-15 | DIAMANT APPLICATIONS Société Anonyme dite: | Method of manufacturing jewels with one or more rows of stones, and jewels obtained by this method |
| US4731913A (en) * | 1985-03-21 | 1988-03-22 | Diamant Applications | Process for making jewelry comprising one or more rows of stones and jewelry obtained by these processes |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS56132902A (en) | 1981-10-17 |
| FR2476459A1 (en) | 1981-08-28 |
| ES8204590A1 (en) | 1982-05-16 |
| DE3166391D1 (en) | 1984-11-08 |
| ATE9644T1 (en) | 1984-10-15 |
| JPH0446561B2 (en) | 1992-07-30 |
| US4457056A (en) | 1984-07-03 |
| EP0034977B1 (en) | 1984-10-03 |
| FR2476459B1 (en) | 1982-10-15 |
| CA1192730A (en) | 1985-09-03 |
| ES499859A0 (en) | 1982-05-16 |
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