CN102071523B - Method for processing soft twist yarn knitted fabric - Google Patents
Method for processing soft twist yarn knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN102071523B CN102071523B CN2011100300337A CN201110030033A CN102071523B CN 102071523 B CN102071523 B CN 102071523B CN 2011100300337 A CN2011100300337 A CN 2011100300337A CN 201110030033 A CN201110030033 A CN 201110030033A CN 102071523 B CN102071523 B CN 102071523B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a method for processing a soft twist yarn knitted fabric. The method is characterized in that: the whole process sequentially comprises the following specific steps of: yarn dyeing, doubling and twisting, weaving, fabric water-washing, softening finishing, dehydration, scutching and drying, calendering and shaping. The method has the advantages that: two single yarns are doubled to form a soft twist yarn so as to overcome the shortcomings of weak strength, weaving difficulties, severe cloth cover skewing and the like of the conventional single soft twist yarn; the method is simple in process; the knitted fabric processed by the method has the effects of elegant gloss, high size stability, fluffy and soft handfeel and the like; in addition, if two single yarns with different colors and an identical yarn count are doubled and twisted, the processed knitted fabric has a unique heather effect.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the processing method of field of textiles lining, relate in particular to a kind of processing method of soft twist yarn knit fabric.
Background technology
Therefore the knit fabric clothes receive liking of consumers in general deeply owing to have clear, soft bulk, the high resilience of lines, characteristics such as comfortable and easy to wear.Knit fabric with yarn on, both required the powerful good of yarn usually, be beneficial to that circular knitting machine is weaved and follow-up dyeing and finishing processing; Simultaneously hope that again yarn twist is low, can make the lining soft fluffy of producing, and can be divided into tight twist yarn, bastard yarn and soft twist yarn according to the height of yarn twisting, what knit fabric adopted mostly at present is bastard yarn, promptly common yarn.Soft twist yarn is the twist that requires to reduce yarn according to properties of product, be to be lower than conventional yarn with the yarn count yarn twist, and the minimizing of yarn twist can reduce the brute force of yarn.Make follow-up weaving and the dyeing and finishing processing difficulties if adopt the processing method of present knit fabric to use soft twist yarn to add trade union, and the cloth cover lines that processes is not straight, skew of weft is serious, influences the quality and the quality of product.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides and a kind ofly makes that the lining lines that processes is clear, gloss is simple and elegant, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY good and the processing method of the soft twist yarn knit fabric of the fluffy softness of feel.
The present invention solves the problems of the technologies described above the technical scheme that is adopted: a kind of processing method of soft twist yarn knit fabric, the concrete processing step of its whole machining process process is followed successively by: yarn dyeing → doubling, twisting → weave → lining wash water → soft finish → dehydration, open-width, oven dry → calendering → typing.
Described doubling, twisting process are: earlier two yarn counts are 20S/1～200S/1, twist with the fingers and in the same yarn count of twisting with the fingers for Z, twist with the fingers single thread and become strand; General and good strand are twisted then; The sth. made by twisting that makes strand is to being that S twists with the fingers, and the twist of control strand be with strand with 40～80% of the bastard yarn twist of yarn count.
Described weaving process is: the weak twist thigh yarn after will twisting is made into grey cloth on knitting counter-rotating large circle machine; Adopt the counter-rotating large circle machine to weave grey cloth and can effectively control the cloth cover skew of weft.
Described lining wash water technology is: the weight ratio of control grey cloth and water is 1:5～20, adding degreaser 0.5～2g/L in the water then, under 40～60 ℃ the temperature to grey cloth processing 5～20min after draining.
Described soft finish technology is: the weight ratio of control cloth and water is 1:10～20; In water, add acetic acid 0.1～0.5g/L successively then; Silicone oil emulsion 2～8g/L; And the formation soft finish liquid that stirs, then soft finish liquid is warming up to 30～50 ℃, to draining behind cloth insulation processing 5～30min; Processing through this technology makes knit fabric have soft smooth hand feeling.
Described calendering technology is: the pressure of the last lower compression roller of control calender is 15～35Mpa, and roller temperature is 40～100 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 10～30m/min, then cloth is carried out satinage in calender; Processing through this technology makes the knitted cloth mask that simple and elegant gloss arranged.
Described setting process is: earlier formaldehyde-free resins 10～60g/L, catalyst 5～20g/L, softener 10～40g/L are uniformly mixed to form the typing treatment fluid; Then lining is padded in the typing treatment fluid; And the liquid carrying rate of control cloth is 70～80%; The setting temperature of controlling setting machine then is that 150～170 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle are 15～20 meters/minute, and cloth is finalized the design; Processing through this technology makes knit fabric have good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY and cloth cover lines.
Compared with prior art; Advantage of the present invention is owing to earlier a weak twist strand is twisted in two single thread doublings in this processing method; Overcome traditional weak twist single thread force low, weave shortcomings such as difficulty, cloth cover skew of weft be serious; And this method processing is simple, and through the knit fabric that this method processing obtains have that gloss is simple and elegant, DIMENSIONAL STABILITY good, the fluffy effect such as soft and smooth of feel; In addition, if adopt the same yarn count single thread of two different colours to carry out doubling twisting, also can make the knit fabric that processes have " spending ash " effect of a kind of uniqueness.
The specific embodiment
Below the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment one: with 40S/1 combed cotton raw yarn processing 40S/2 single jersey, its concrete procedure of processing is:
(1), 40S/1 combed cotton raw yarn is dyeed respectively by traditional bobbin dyeing technology is processed into white yarn of 40S/1 combed cotton and 40S/1 combed cotton crape;
(2), doubling on doubling frame becomes 40S/2 combing thigh yarn with a 40S/1 combed cotton crape with a white yarn of 40S/1 combed cotton; Then will and good 40S/2 combing thigh yarn on twisting mill by twisting with 60% of the bastard yarn twist (59 ± 5 twist with the fingers/10 centimetres) of yarn count, the twist that makes the 40S/2 combing thigh yarn after the twisting is 35 ± 5 to twist with the fingers/10 centimetres;
(3), the 40S/2 weak twist thigh yarn after will twisting is made into grey cloth on knitting counter-rotating large circle machine;
(4), the grey cloth that weaves is put into the overflow dye vat, the control grey cloth is 1:15 with the weight ratio of water, adding degreaser 1g/L in the water then, under 50 ℃ the temperature to grey cloth processing 20min after draining;
(5), in the overflow dye vat, add water, the weight ratio of control cloth and water is 1:15, in water, adds acetic acid 0.2g/L successively then; Silicone oil emulsion 6g/L; And the formation soft finish liquid that stirs, then soft finish liquid is warming up to 50 ℃, to draining behind the cloth insulation processing 20min;
(6), the cloth after the soft finish is dewatered, open-width, then on setting machine starching limit, oven dry;
(7), the pressure of last lower compression roller of control calender is 25Mpa, roller temperature is 80 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle is 20m/min, then cloth is carried out satinage in calender;
(8), formaldehyde-free resins 50g/L, catalyst 15g/L, softener 30g/L are uniformly mixed to form the typing treatment fluid; Then lining is padded in the typing treatment fluid; And the liquid carrying rate of control cloth is 80%; The setting temperature of controlling setting machine then is that 170 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle are 18 meters/minute, and cloth is finalized the design, and obtains the 40S/2 single jersey.
Embodiment two: with 60S/1 combed cotton raw yarn processing 60S/2 pearl ground lining, its concrete procedure of processing is:
(1), 60S/1 combed cotton raw yarn is dyeed respectively by traditional bobbin dyeing technology is processed into white yarn of 60S/1 combed cotton and 60S/1 combed cotton purple yarn;
(2), doubling on doubling frame becomes 60S/2 combing thigh yarn with a 60S/1 combed cotton purple yarn with a white yarn of 60S/1 combed cotton; Then will and good 60S/2 combing thigh yarn on twisting mill by twisting with 45% of the bastard yarn twist (85 ± 5 twist with the fingers/10 centimetres) of yarn count, the twist that makes the 60S/2 combing thigh yarn after the twisting is 38 ± 5 to twist with the fingers/10 centimetres;
(3), the 60S/2 weak twist thigh yarn after will twisting is made into grey cloth on knitting counter-rotating large circle machine;
(4), the grey cloth that weaves is put into the overflow dye vat, the control grey cloth is 1:10 with the weight ratio of water, adding degreaser 1.5g/L in the water then, under 50 ℃ the temperature to grey cloth processing 20min after draining;
(5), in the overflow dye vat, add water, the weight ratio of control cloth and water is 1:10, in water, adds acetic acid 0.2g/L successively then; Silicone oil emulsion 4g/L; And the formation soft finish liquid that stirs, then soft finish liquid is warming up to 40 ℃, to draining behind the cloth insulation processing 30min;
(6), the cloth after the soft finish is dewatered, open-width, then on setting machine starching limit, oven dry;
(7), the pressure of last lower compression roller of control calender is 35Mpa, roller temperature is 80 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle is 30m/min, then cloth is carried out satinage in calender;
(8), formaldehyde-free resins 30g/L, catalyst 10g/L, softener 20g/L are uniformly mixed to form the typing treatment fluid; Then lining is padded in the typing treatment fluid; And the liquid carrying rate of control cloth is 75%; The setting temperature of controlling setting machine then is that 160 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle are 20 meters/minute, and cloth is finalized the design, and obtains 60S/2 pearl ground lining.
Embodiment three: with 80S/1 combed cotton raw yarn processing 80S/2 single jersey, its concrete procedure of processing is:
(1), 80S/1 combed cotton raw yarn is dyeed respectively by traditional bobbin dyeing technology is processed into white yarn of 80S/1 combed cotton and the dark blue dyed yarn of 80S/1 combed cotton;
(2), doubling on doubling frame becomes 80S/2 combing thigh yarn with a dark blue dyed yarn of 80S/1 combed cotton with a white yarn of 80S/1 combed cotton; Then will and good 80S/2 combing thigh yarn on twisting mill by twisting with 60% of the bastard yarn twist (92 ± 5 twist with the fingers/10 centimetres) of yarn count, the twist that makes the 80S/2 combing thigh yarn after the twisting is 55 ± 5 to twist with the fingers/10 centimetres;
(3), the 80S/2 weak twist thigh yarn after will twisting is made into grey cloth on knitting counter-rotating large circle machine;
(4), the grey cloth that weaves is put into the overflow dye vat, the control grey cloth is 1:18 with the weight ratio of water, adding degreaser 1.5g/L in the water then, under 60 ℃ the temperature to grey cloth processing 20min after draining;
(5), in the overflow dye vat, add water, the weight ratio of control cloth and water is 1:18, in water, adds acetic acid 0.4g/L successively then; Silicone oil emulsion 6g/L; And the formation soft finish liquid that stirs, then soft finish liquid is warming up to 50 ℃, to draining behind the cloth insulation processing 25min;
(6), the cloth after the soft finish is dewatered, open-width, then on setting machine starching limit, oven dry;
(7), the pressure of last lower compression roller of control calender is 30Mpa, roller temperature is 90 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle is 20m/min, then cloth is carried out satinage in calender;
(8), formaldehyde-free resins 40g/L, catalyst 18g/L, softener 30g/L are uniformly mixed to form the typing treatment fluid; Then lining is padded in the typing treatment fluid; And the liquid carrying rate of control cloth is 80%; The setting temperature of controlling setting machine then is that 165 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle are 15 meters/minute, and cloth is finalized the design, and obtains the 80S/2 single jersey.
Details are as follows to the manufacturer of employed degreaser, silicone oil emulsion, formaldehyde-free resins, catalyst and softener in the foregoing description and concrete performance:
Degreaser: the degreaser DWA that adopts Rudoiph's chemical industry (Dongguan) Co., Ltd to produce; It is a kind of anion degreaser; Be applicable to deoiling of various fibers; Remove the lubricating oil that knitting needle is brought on the fabric especially easily, have good dispersion, emulsifying capacity and diffusivity, low bubble, can remove the mechanical oil stain of any kind of.
Silicone oil emulsion: the silicone oil emulsion MW that adopts Clariant chemical industry (China) Co., Ltd to produce; It is a kind of amino silicon oil emulsion of nonionic; Can be used for all fibres, and can make fiber produce durability smoothness, softness, show slightly fluffy feel, can improve the fabric sewing performance; Do not influence wool effect of the fabric, and can be used for white fabrics.
Formaldehyde-free resins: the formaldehydeless no-ironing resin NZF that adopts Clariant chemical industry (China) Co., Ltd to produce; It is the resin that does not contain formaldehyde; Be applicable to the woven and knitted fabric of cellulose fibre and they and synthetic fiber blending; Have good DIMENSIONAL STABILITY for the viscose blended product of cellulose fiber peacekeeping, have well dried, wet elasticity recoverability simultaneously.
Catalyst: the catalyst n KD that adopts Clariant chemical industry (China) Co., Ltd to produce, it is the catalyst with the matching used RESIN FINISH of formaldehydeless no-ironing resin NZF.
Softener: adopt to open up and receive the softener S2G that chemical (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. produces; It is a kind of hydrophilic organic silicon nanometer softener, is the nanoscale dispersion liquid, can evenly disperse the infiltrated fiber yarn inner; Be applicable to all kinds fiber; Soft effect is good, good hand feeling, and can increase the elasticity of fabric.
Claims (3)
1. the processing method of a soft twist yarn knit fabric is characterized in that the concrete processing step of its whole machining process process is followed successively by: yarn dyeing → doubling, twisting → weave → lining wash water → soft finish → dehydration, open-width, oven dry → calendering → typing;
Described doubling, twisting process are: earlier two yarn counts are 20S/1～200S/1, twist with the fingers and in the same yarn count of twisting with the fingers for Z, twist with the fingers single thread and become strand; General and good strand are twisted then; The sth. made by twisting that makes strand is to being that S twists with the fingers, and the twist of control strand be with strand with 40～80% of the bastard yarn twist of yarn count;
Described lining wash water technology is: the weight ratio of control grey cloth and water is 1: 5～20, adding degreaser 0.5～2g/L in the water then, under 40～60 ℃ the temperature to grey cloth processing 5～20min after draining;
Described calendering technology is: the pressure of the last lower compression roller of control calender is 15～35Mpa, and roller temperature is 40～100 ℃, and the speed of a motor vehicle is 10～30m/min, then cloth is carried out satinage in calender;
Described setting process is: earlier formaldehyde-free resins 10～60g/L, catalyst 5～20g/L, softener 10～40g/L are uniformly mixed to form the typing treatment fluid; Then lining is padded in the typing treatment fluid; And the liquid carrying rate of control cloth is 70～80%; The setting temperature of controlling setting machine then is that 150～170 ℃, the speed of a motor vehicle are 15～20 meters/minute, and cloth is finalized the design.
2. the processing method of a kind of soft twist yarn knit fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that described weaving process is: the weak twist thigh yarn after will twisting is made into grey cloth on knitting counter-rotating large circle machine.
3. the processing method of a kind of soft twist yarn knit fabric as claimed in claim 1; It is characterized in that described soft finish technology is: the weight ratio of control cloth and water is 1: 10～20; In water, add acetic acid 0.1～0.5g/L successively then, silicone oil emulsion 2～8g/L, and the formation soft finish liquid that stirs; Then soft finish liquid is warming up to 30～50 ℃, to draining behind cloth insulation processing 5～30min.
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| CN2011100300337A CN102071523B (en) | 2011-01-28 | 2011-01-28 | Method for processing soft twist yarn knitted fabric |
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| CN2011100300337A CN102071523B (en) | 2011-01-28 | 2011-01-28 | Method for processing soft twist yarn knitted fabric |
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| CN102071523B true CN102071523B (en) | 2012-07-18 |
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| CN102943362B (en) * | 2012-10-24 | 2015-01-07 | 嵊州盛泰针织有限公司 | Processing method for knitted garment having heather nostalgia style |
| CN103015030A (en) * | 2012-11-30 | 2013-04-03 | 福建东龙针纺有限公司 | Corn fiber lace manufacturing method |
| CN103572482A (en) * | 2013-11-25 | 2014-02-12 | 南通泰慕士服装有限公司 | Low-bias-weft-skew knitted fabric |
| CN104480598A (en) * | 2014-11-28 | 2015-04-01 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Pure-cotton hard-twist color yarn production method |
| CN104404707B (en) * | 2014-12-02 | 2016-08-24 | 海宁市金郑家具有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of multifunctional textile lining |
| CN107574547A (en) * | 2017-08-25 | 2018-01-12 | 上海日舒科技纺织有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of wide width thin type one-sided composition looped fabric |
| CN108486736A (en) * | 2018-04-04 | 2018-09-04 | 吴江市天缘纺织有限公司 | A kind of color knits the production technology of imitation leather leather facing material |
| CN108866780B (en) * | 2018-08-31 | 2020-10-16 | 闽江学院 | Method for dyeing grey linen on polyester-viscose blended weft-knitted fabric |
| CN110453336A (en) * | 2019-05-22 | 2019-11-15 | 苏州林驰纺织整理有限公司 | A method of with the weak lasting yarn weaving broad door paper web of high-count and high-density |
| CN112220385B (en) * | 2020-09-25 | 2022-08-02 | 山东金号家纺集团有限公司 | Combed weak-twist pure cotton plied yarn towel |
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