CN101224174B - Solid supplement cosmetics compound and preparing method thereof - Google Patents
Solid supplement cosmetics compound and preparing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101224174B CN101224174B CN2007100002859A CN200710000285A CN101224174B CN 101224174 B CN101224174 B CN 101224174B CN 2007100002859 A CN2007100002859 A CN 2007100002859A CN 200710000285 A CN200710000285 A CN 200710000285A CN 101224174 B CN101224174 B CN 101224174B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a solid supplemental cosmetics composition and the preparation method. Although the invention has a great amount of at least one spherical pigment which can generally produce adverse effects on the molding performance of the composition and is selected from mica, nylon, silica, polymethylmethacrylate and siloxane powder, the solid supplemental cosmetics composition has therequired strength and can greatly improve color-rendering property and using sense. Specifically, the solid supplemental cosmetics composition can be prepared by the following methods: 1) one or morepowder and the selective containing siloxane oil or wax adhesive are mixed to prepare a power composition; 2) at least one water dispersible inorganic thickener is dispersed in the water phase, the dispersion and the volatile siloxane oil are mixed to prepare a siloxane water packing prefabricated emulsion; 3) the powder composition and the siloxane water packing prefabricated emulsion are mixed to form a paste, and the mixture is molded and dried.
Description
Technical field
The invention relates to a kind of circumscribed new ideas solid supplement cosmetics compound that overcomes employed composition in the conventional preparation method that conventional solid supplement cosmetics compound and this solid replenish make-up composition.
Background technology
According to conventional methods, solid supplement cosmetics (makeup cosmetics) is preparation by the following method generally: with the powder molding (molding) (being compression molding under most of situation) that at least a specific surface area is big, bonding force is strong, perhaps 5-10 weight % is selected from ester, hydrocarbon, siloxanes, triglyceride wet goods oil and fine is dispersed at least a powder, then compression molding.But these conventional methods can not provide gratifying additional cosmetics to want the dressing effect that obtains.Particularly, because the consumption of Muscovitum in conventional supplement cosmetics compound of Margarita powder such as titanation is limited, therefore on skin, can not get the Margarita sense of desired level.In addition, contained big gauging has stoped by the absorption of the excretory sebum of skin to described preparation in the compressing powder preparation, makes skin become greasy.Consider the preparation of cosmetic composition, Korea S's cosmetic composition standard (Korea Standard of Cosmetic Ingredients, KSCI) the Margarita powder granule (as the Muscovitum of titanation) of registration in is because repulsion is big, size is big, therefore the eye in the molding intensity with desired level replenishes with in the conventional compound method (as compression molding) of eye shadow, and the particulate consumption of described Margarita powder can not be 50 weight % or higher.In addition, be used to provide soft use feeling, high sebum absorbability and skin smoothness nylon, Silicon stone, polymethyl methacrylate (polymethyl methacrylate, PMMA), polymethylsilsesquioxane powder etc. also runs into above-mentioned similar problem.Therefore, be difficult in producing preparation, use these a large amount of compositions.In order to address these problems, can use oil and wax adhesive.If use excessive oil or wax adhesive to prepare Solic cosmetic, then the surface of Solic cosmetic is covered by oily thin film, causes occurring Solic cosmetic wherein and can not be bonded at " caking " phenomenon on the skin again.This caking phenomenon makes the remarkable variation of the use feeling of Solic cosmetic.
On the other hand, people carry out various trials to solve the problems referred to above of the mixture that uses powder, oily binding agent, thickening agent and volatile solvent.
For example, US 4992262 has proposed the use chlorofluorocarbon as volatile solvent and use the alkyl bentonite as thickening agent.But its shortcoming is that the micaceous consumption of titanation can not be 60 weight % or higher.In addition, PCT/IB02/05257 described make water as volatile solvent, the O/w emulsion (O/W emulsion) that contains fatty acid and wax and xanthan gum as thickening agent.But, shortcoming be the repulsion of the relative O/w emulsion of powder very big and since powder mutually and the bad dispersibility between the O/w emulsion, so powder particle can not be in O/w emulsion homodisperse, thereby reduced bonding force.Particularly, when powder is used as the enhanced water resistance siloxanes that applies the basis when applying, the described shortcoming water crossing that becomes is obvious more.In addition, owing to the xanthan gum as thickening agent is an organic material, therefore be subjected to microorganism encroach easily.In addition, make this method be unsuitable for plant-scale practical application long drying time.
Summary of the invention
In order to address the above problem, the present inventor studies, to develop a kind of solid supplement cosmetics compound, big and amount oil or wax adhesive simultaneously reduces though as the consumption of at least a spherical pigment characteristic component, that be selected from Muscovitum, nylon, Silicon stone, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and silicone powder of solid supplement cosmetics, but solid supplement cosmetics compound has the intensity of desired level and color rendering properties and use feeling and improves.The present inventor finds that the solid supplement cosmetics compound with above-mentioned advantage can make by following method as a result: preparation contains or does not contain the powder composition of a small amount of silicone oil or wax adhesive; This powder composition is mixed with water-in-silicone type preemulsion to form slurry, and described preemulsion is the mixture of at least a water dispersible inorganic thickening agent and volatile silicone oil; With this mixture molding and dry.The present invention is based on this discovery and finish.
An object of the present invention is to provide a kind of powder composition, that said composition contains is a large amount of, as at least a powder of the characteristic component of solid supplement cosmetics, and selectivity contains a spot of silicone oil or wax adhesive.
Another object of the present invention provides a kind of water-in-silicone type preemulsion that contains at least a water dispersible inorganic thickening agent.
Another purpose of the present invention provides a kind of solid supplement cosmetics compound, the use feeling of this cosmetic composition improves, for example color rendering properties improves, glossiness height, sebum absorbability are lasting, and this cosmetic composition makes by described powder composition and water-in-silicone type preemulsion are mixed and this mixture is prepared (formulating).
A further object of the present invention provides the preparation method of described cosmetic composition.
An aspect according to realization above-mentioned purpose of the present invention, a kind of solid supplement cosmetics compound is provided, and this cosmetic composition makes by powder composition that will contain or not contain a small amount of silicone oil or wax adhesive and the water-in-silicone type preemulsion mixing that contains at least a water dispersible inorganic thickening agent.
The preparation method of described cosmetic composition is provided according to another aspect of the present invention.
Particularly, solid supplement cosmetics compound of the present invention is that benchmark contains the powder composition of 60-99.5 weight % and the water-in-silicone type preemulsion of 0.5-40 weight % with its gross weight.
The specific embodiment
Now the present invention will be described in more detail.
The invention provides a kind of solid supplement cosmetics compound, it is characterized in that, this cosmetic composition makes by following method: at least a powder of 80-99.9 weight % is mixed with silicone oil or the wax adhesive of 0.5-20 weight %, with the preparation powder composition; At least a water dispersible inorganic thickening agent of 1.0-10.0 weight %, the volatile silicone oil of 20.0-60.0 weight %, the water of 1.0-70.0 weight % and the water-in-silicone type surfactant of 0.1-20.0 weight % are mixed, with preparation water-in-silicone type preemulsion; Described powder composition and water-in-silicone type preemulsion are mixed, to form slurry; With described mixture molding and dry.
Described powder composition contains powder and silicone oil or wax adhesive.
Any material that is generally used for cosmetic field all can be used as described powder.Described powder is selected from Korea Standard of Cosmetic Ingredients (KSCI) or International NomenclatureCosmetic Ingredient (INCI) Talcum, Muscovitum, sericite, the Silicon stone of registration, Muscovitum, titanium dioxide, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon and the silicone powder of titanation.Gross weight with described powder composition is a benchmark, and the consumption of described powder is 80-99.5 weight %.
Especially, described powder composition can contain at least a spherical pigment in a large amount of Muscovitums that is selected from titanation, nylon, Silicon stone, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and the silicone powder.
The consumption of silicone oil or wax adhesive can be decided by the kind and the content of water dispersible thickening agent.Silicone oil or wax adhesive also can use with the form of preemulsion, with the molding performance that improves the water dispersible thickening agent or obtain softish use feeling.Silicone oil or wax adhesive can contain additive such as spice or antiseptic.The example of silicone oil comprises methyl-silicone oil (methicone), dimethicone (dimethicone), cyclomethicone (cyclomethicone) and phenyl trimethyl silicone oil (phenyltrimethicone oil), and the example of wax comprises ester wax, type siloxane wax and hydrocarbon wax.Gross weight with described powder composition is a benchmark, and the consumption of silicone oil or wax adhesive can be 0.5-20 weight %, is preferably 0.5-10 weight %.If desired, can also not use silicone oil or wax adhesive to prepare described powder composition.
Described water-in-silicone (W/S) type preemulsion makes by using at least a water dispersible inorganic thickening agent, water, volatile silicone oil and water-in-silicone type surfactant.
When the water dispersible inorganic thickening agent was dispersed in the water, because the polarity of water, the flowability of water dispersible inorganic thickening agent increased or structural rearrangement.The water dispersible thickening agent is selected from magnesium silicate, aluminium-magnesium silicate, sodium silicate magnesium and their mixture.Gross weight with described water-in-silicone (W/S) type preemulsion is a benchmark, and the consumption of water dispersible thickening agent is 1.0-10.0 weight %, is preferably 5.0-10.0 weight %.When the content of water dispersible inorganic thickening agent in preemulsion during less than 1.0 weight %, the cohesive of water dispersible inorganic thickening agent descends, and makes sedimentation stability variation behind the molding.Simultaneously, when the content of water dispersible inorganic thickening agent in preemulsion during greater than 10.0 weight %, the state of preemulsion becomes slurry by aqueous dispersion, thereby preemulsion can not be mixed with powder composition.The water dispersible inorganic thickening agent of dry state has layer structure.Each layer of water dispersible inorganic thickening agent separated by the water of minute quantity, and metal ion is contained on the surface of described layer.Each layer is bipolarity, because it is by the edge of positively charged (+) and electronegative surface composition.The existence of metal ion is that they are attached to electronegative surface.When water being added in the water dispersible inorganic thickening agent, some hydrones are absorbed into the metal ion that is present on the described laminar surface.Absorbed hydrone further attracts other hydrone to strengthen the negative polar water molecules set of surface electrical to form.Ever-increasing hydrone collapses the interval change between the ionizing layer greatly by expansion until described layer.As a result, hydrone disperses and partly connects the exposed surface of the dispersion layer of described water dispersible inorganic thickening agent.When stopping to mix, the surface of positively charged contacts with electronegative surface, makes described moisture internal structure form the regular structure that is called " card layer " (houseof cards) structure.Described powder particle is embedded into the interlayer of described structure, thereby realizes the preparation of cosmetic composition.When external force puts on the structure that hydrone wherein moves freely, the shape collapse of described structure.Then, the structure of collapse reshapes and is stable status.
Described water is preferably distilled water, is benchmark with the gross weight of water-in-silicone (W/S) type preemulsion, and the consumption of water is 1.0-70.0 weight %.When the consumption of water during, the water dispersible thickening agent can not be distributed in the preemulsion equably less than 1.0 weight %.When the consumption of water surpassed 70 weight %, the consumption of water dispersible inorganic thickening agent was not enough to stablize final compositions.
Gross weight with water-in-silicone (W/S) type preemulsion is a benchmark, and the consumption of volatile silicone oil is 20.0-60.0 weight %.The example of volatile silicone oil comprises that evaporation rate is greater than the silicone oil that has the cyclohexyl methyl siloxane structure in distilled water and the molecular structure.Gross weight with water-in-silicone (W/S) type preemulsion is a benchmark, and the consumption of volatile silicone oil can not prepare water-in-silicone (W/S) type preemulsion during less than 20.0 weight %.The consumption of volatile silicone oil can not mix preemulsion to form slurry during greater than 60 weight % with powder composition.
Gross weight with water-in-silicone (W/S) type preemulsion is a benchmark, and the consumption of water-in-silicone type surfactant is 0.1-20.0 weight %.The consumption of water-in-silicone type surfactant can not prepare water-in-silicone (W/S) type preemulsion during less than 0.1 weight %.The consumption of water-in-silicone type surfactant is during greater than 20 weight %, because surfactant surpasses required amount, therefore can produce disadvantageous side effect.Water-in-silicone type surfactant has dimethyl siloxane, sorbitan, polyglyceryl or glucoside structure.
Only otherwise influence effect of the present invention, application according to the expection of cosmetic composition, if desired, solid supplement cosmetics compound of the present invention can also contain be selected from oil composition, humidizer, antioxidant, UV absorbent, spice etc. to few a kind of additive.
Explain the present invention in more detail below with reference to following embodiment and Comparative Examples.Following examples help to deepen the understanding of the present invention, but should not be construed as limitation of the scope of the invention.
Embodiment
Embodiment 1 common compression solid preparation
Group 1 composition of amount as shown in table 1 is fully mixed in the Henschel blender together.This mixture is mixed with group 3 compositions of W/S preemulsion form, to form the powder slurry.Then with this powder slurry compression molding and dry under 70 ℃, to make eye shadow.
Embodiment 2 common compression solid preparations
Group 1 composition of amount as shown in table 1 is fully mixed in the Henschel blender together.Group 2 composition fine is distributed in the mixture of group 1 and and mixes, with formation powder slurry with group 3 compositions of W/S preemulsion form.Then with this powder slurry compression molding and dry under 70 ℃, to make eye shadow.
Table 1
Embodiment 3 solid stick preparations
Group 1 composition of amount as shown in table 2 is fully mixed in the Henschel blender together.This mixture is mixed with group 3 compositions of W/S preemulsion form, to form the powder slurry.Then with this powder slurry compression molding and dry under 50 ℃, to make eye shadow.
Embodiment 4 solid stick preparations
Group 1 composition of amount as shown in table 2 is fully mixed in the Henschel blender together.Group 2 compositions of amount as shown in table 2 are fully mixed be incorporated in the mixture that fine is distributed to group 1 under 70 ℃.The mixture that obtains is mixed with group 3 compositions of W/S preemulsion form, to form the powder slurry.Then with this powder slurry compression molding and dry under 50 ℃, to make eye shadow.
Table 2
Comparative example 1 common compression solid preparation
Group 1 composition of amount as shown in table 3 is fully mixed in the Henschel blender together.Group 2 compositions of amount as shown in table 3 are fully mixed be incorporated in the mixture that fine is distributed to group 1 under 70 ℃.With the mixture compact model that obtains, to make eye shadow.
Table 3
The evaluation of test case 1 glossiness
In this embodiment, estimate the glossiness of the eye shadow that makes in embodiment 1-4 and the comparative example 1.After being administered to artificial sebum on the artificial skin, each eye shadow of scheduled volume is coated on the artificial skin.Use vancometer (micro-Tri-gloss series, Gardener) glossiness of mensuration eye shadow.Described vancometer is to be used for the conventional equipment that optical detecting is applied in the glossiness of the solid supplement cosmetics on the skin.The glossiness of eye shadow be expressed as 60 degree angles of reflection down with 100 relative value.
Table 4
? | Embodiment 1 | Embodiment 2 | Embodiment 3 | Embodiment 4 | Comparative example 1 |
Glossiness | 63 | 65 | 60 | 70 | 48 |
Can confirm from the result of table 4, the eye shadow that makes among the embodiment 1 and 3 only uses powder and does not use silicone oil to prepare powder composition, use powder and silicone oil to prepare the eye shadow that powder composition makes with embodiment 2 and 4 and compare, glossiness does not have significant difference.In addition, the glossiness of each eye shadow that makes among the embodiment 1-4 is higher 1.5 times than the eye shadow that makes in the comparative example 1.
The evaluation of test case 2 use feelings
Select the female consumer in 25 20-40 year to participate in estimating the use feeling of the eye shadow that makes in embodiment 1-4 and the comparative example 1 at random.With following standard is the test result scoring: 5: very good; 4: good; 3: general; 2: poor; 1: non-constant.
Test result is as shown in table 5.
Table 5
? | Embodiment 1 | Embodiment 2 | Embodiment 3 | Embodiment 4 | Comparative example 1 |
Color rendering properties | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 1 |
Viscosity | 3 | 5 | 3 | 4 | 2 |
Spreadability | 4 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 1 |
Persistency | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 2 |
From the result shown in the table 5 as can be seen, the viscosity of the eye shadow that makes among the embodiment 1-4, persistency, color rendering properties and spreadability result are better than the eye shadow that makes in the comparative example 1.
As can be seen from the above description, solid supplement cosmetics compound of the present invention contains powder composition and water-in-silicone type preemulsion, described powder composition contains or does not contain a small amount of silicone oil or wax adhesive, and described preemulsion contains the water dispersible inorganic thickening agent.Though there are a large amount of at least a spherical pigment that are selected from Muscovitum, nylon, Silicon stone, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and the silicone powder, but this solid supplement cosmetics compound has the intensity of desired level and color rendering properties and glossiness greatly to be improved.In addition, the spreadability of cosmetic composition of the present invention is high and have a softish use feeling.
Although for purpose of description discloses preferred implementation of the present invention, but, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that, under the prerequisite that does not depart from by the disclosed the scope and spirit of the present invention of claims of enclosing, can carry out various changes, interpolation and replacement.
Claims (8)
1. solid supplement cosmetics compound, this cosmetic composition is that benchmark contains with its gross weight:
60-99.5 the powder composition of weight %, described powder composition contain the powder of 80-99.5 weight % and silicone oil or the wax adhesive of 0.5-20 weight %; With
0.5-40 the water-in-silicone type preemulsion of weight %, described water-in-silicone type preemulsion is made by water dispersible inorganic thickening agent, volatile silicone oil, water and water-in-silicone type surfactant, gross weight with described water-in-silicone type preemulsion is a benchmark, the amount of described water dispersible inorganic thickening agent is 1.0-10.0 weight %, the amount of described volatile silicone oil is 20.0-60.0 weight %, and the amount of described water-in-silicone type surfactant is 0.1-20.0 weight %.
2. compositions according to claim 1, wherein, described powder is to be selected from least a in the group of being made up of Talcum, Muscovitum, Silicon stone, titanium dioxide, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon and silicone powder.
3. compositions according to claim 2, wherein said Muscovitum are the Muscovitum of sericite and/or titanation.
4. compositions according to claim 1, wherein, described powder composition contains the described powder of 90-99.5 weight % and described silicone oil or the wax adhesive of 0.5-10 weight %.
5. according to any described compositions among the claim 1-4, wherein, described supplement cosmetics compound is prepared by compression molding.
6. compositions according to claim 1, wherein, described water dispersible inorganic thickening agent is to be selected from least a in the group of being made up of magnesium silicate, aluminium-magnesium silicate and sodium silicate magnesium.
7. the preparation method of a solid supplement cosmetics compound, this method comprises:
A) at least a powder with 80-99.9 weight % mixes with silicone oil or the wax adhesive of 0.5-20 weight %, with the preparation powder composition;
B) at least a water dispersible inorganic thickening agent of 1.0-10.0 weight %, the volatile silicone oil of 20.0-60.0 weight %, the water of 1.0-70.0 weight % and the water-in-silicone type surfactant of 0.1-20.0 weight % are mixed, with preparation water-in-silicone type preemulsion;
C) described powder composition and described emulsion are mixed, to form slurry, molding and drying obtain solid supplement cosmetics compound then, and are benchmark with its gross weight, the powder composition that contains 60-99.5 weight %, the water-in-silicone type preemulsion of 0.5-40 weight %.
8. method according to claim 7 wherein, in step a), also is distributed to silicone oil or wax adhesive in the described powder composition.
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US5143722A (en) * | 1986-12-19 | 1992-09-01 | Revlon, Inc. | Cosmetic makeup compositions comprising water-in-oil emulsions containing pigment |
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CN1199608A (en) * | 1997-01-24 | 1998-11-25 | 莱雅公司 | Water-in-oil emulsion, composition comprising such emulsion and use in cosmetics pharmacy or hygiene |
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