CN100444822C - 调理洗发剂组合物 - Google Patents
调理洗发剂组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN100444822C CN100444822C CNB038157616A CN03815761A CN100444822C CN 100444822 C CN100444822 C CN 100444822C CN B038157616 A CNB038157616 A CN B038157616A CN 03815761 A CN03815761 A CN 03815761A CN 100444822 C CN100444822 C CN 100444822C
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- polysiloxanes
- block copolymer
- hair
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Abstract
本文公开了一种含水头发清洁和调理组合物,所述组合物包括:a)1-50%重量的清洁用表面活性剂,b)包括水不溶性聚硅氧烷调理油的不连续分散液滴,其特征在于所述液滴的平均直径(D3,2)为2到100微米,和c)平均分子量为4000或以上统一原子量单位的表面活性嵌段共聚物,包括聚环氧乙烷和聚环氧丙烷嵌段,其中各嵌段包括2个或多个环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷单体单元,并且在所述嵌段共聚物中环氧丙烷单体单元的平均数为25或以上。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及洗除型头发调理组合物,其在施用于头发后可基本上被漂洗除去。本发明特别涉及头发洗发剂组合物,其清洁头发并对头发提供调理效能。更具体地说,相对于发根来说,本发明涉及改善聚硅氧烷调理油在发梢区的沉积,所述调理油来自含分散的疏水调理油滴并且基本上不含阳离子沉积聚合物的洗发剂组合物。
背景和先有技术
对头发提供清洁和调理双重作用的组合物为本领域人们所熟悉。这种洗发剂或淋浴胶组合物通常包括洗发用或清洁用的一种或多种表面活性剂和一种或多种调理剂。调理剂的用途是使湿发易于梳理和使干发更易打理,如较少固定和飞离。一般来说,这些调理剂是水不溶性的油状物质、阳离子聚合物或阳离子表面活性剂。
最流行的用于洗发剂产品的调理剂有油状物质如矿物油、天然油脂诸如三酸甘油酯和硅氧烷聚合物。它们在洗发剂中通常以分散的疏水乳液液滴的形式存在。调理通过沉积在头发上的油状物质在头发上形成膜来获得。
不含清洁用表面活性剂而只提供调理的调理组合物也为本领域人们所熟悉。这种组合物一般在清洁用组合物洗除后施用到头发上。
一种改善调理油滴在头发上沉积的方法是使用大油滴。该方法依靠头发和油滴的物理接触以及接着液滴湿润头发表面和扩散。
由发根皮脂腺分泌的天然油脂使得近发根处比近发梢处更疏水。这意味着通过使用大油滴沉积在头发上的油滴在发根比近发梢处更可扩散和形成膜,实际观察到的情况也是如此。
另一种增强调理油滴在头发上沉积的方法是在组合物中使用阳离子沉积聚合物。人们从先有技术那点已经熟悉这种聚合物的用途。
阳离子聚合物的使用意味着头发漂洗稀释洗发剂时油滴与阳离子聚合物絮凝。这导致阳离子聚合物、调理油和其他不溶性物质杂乱地沉积在头发上。除调理油外的其他物质的存在可导致头发外观的无光(缺乏光泽)以及导致头发的粘重感(因为存在阳离子聚合物)。
一些消费者发现源于上述这两种沉积方法的结果是不符需要的,它可能导致头发在发根处感觉油腻或粘重和无光。
US3753916公开了阳离子聚合物作为调理油沉积助剂的用途。商品名为Pluronic的各种Poloxamer被作为任选组分提及。
WO 92/14440公开了各种Pluronic(各种Poloxamer)在去头屑洗发剂中作为一类令人惊异地增强去头屑效能的“增效剂”。
WO 96/17590公开了含有作为调理相的脂质体的个人洗涤用组合物。其脂质体用非离子乳化剂乳化。各种Poloxamer被列作一种具有1-15的HLB(亲水亲脂平衡)的可用多烷氧基非离子乳化剂。
US 5100657将各种Pluronic(各种Poloxamer)列作头发调理组合物中的任选成分。
为了克服先有技术的这些问题,人们考虑需要把目标放在使调理油滴在发梢区的沉积优于在发根区的沉积,许多研究均在该工作领域进行。虽然需要使油滴表面更加亲水,但人们总是认为在洗发剂组合物中高水平的表面活性剂会支配油滴的表面化学性和亲水性。因此,传统的观点是不论加入到调理油滴中的添加剂是何种添加剂,洗发剂表面活性剂都将控制油滴的亲水性和沉积。
现已惊异地发现,通过共混某些类型的高分子量表面活性嵌段共聚物与含聚硅氧烷的调理油乳液液滴,可提高液滴在发梢区的沉积。虽然不希望受该现象的科学因由的束缚,但似乎即使在存在来自洗发剂的其他表面活性剂分子情况下,表面活性聚合物仍保持在油滴表面,使得这种油滴比含常规油滴洗发剂中的油滴更亲水。这使得改善了油滴沉积于发梢的更亲水区。
发明概述
首先,本发明提供了一种含水头发调理组合物,所述组合物包括:
a)1-50%重量的清洁用表面活性剂,
b)包括水不溶性聚硅氧烷调理油的不连续分散液滴,其特征在于所述液滴的平均直径(D3,2)为2到100微米,和
c)平均分子量4000或以上统一原子量单位的表面活性嵌段共聚物,包括聚环氧乙烷和聚环氧丙烷嵌段,其中各嵌段包括2个或多个环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷单体单元,并且在所述嵌段共聚物中环氧丙烷单体单元的平均数为25或以上。
一种优选形式的表面活性嵌段共聚物是符合式I的嵌段共聚物
式中x的平均值为4或以上,y的平均值为25或以上。
另一种优选形式的表面活性嵌段共聚物是符合式II的嵌段共聚物:
式中a的平均值为2或以上,b的平均值为6或以上。
本发明的详细说明
根据本发明的组合物配制成用于清洁头发并随后漂除的组合物,诸如洗发剂、清洁摩丝或淋浴胶。高度优选根据本发明的清洁用组合物应包含不到0.01%重量的阳离子沉积聚合物。
表面活性聚合物
本发明组合物的一个基本组分是表面活性嵌段共聚物。这是一种基于聚环氧乙烷(EO)和聚环氧丙烷(PO)嵌段的嵌段共聚物。嵌段共聚物的分子量适合为4000统一原子量单位或以上,优选7000或以上,更优选10000或以上,最优选12000或以上。
所述平均分子量适合通过测定聚合物的羟基数并然后转化成分子量来测得。这相当于数均分子量。
在表面活性嵌段共聚物分子中EO或PO聚合物的各嵌段适合包括2个或更多个相应的单体单元,优选有4个或以上,更优选8个或以上,再更优选25个或以上,最优选40个或以上单体单元。
所述表面活性嵌段共聚物分子可适合包括平均数为25个或更多个的环氧丙烷单体单元,优选35或以上、更优选45或以上,最优选60或以上。
符合式I的适合EO/PO的嵌段共聚物具有CTFA名称“Poloxamer”。它们可以商品名″Pluronic″购自BASF。
式I中x的平均值适合为4或以上,优选8或以上,更优选25或以上,再更优选50或以上,最优选80或以上。y的平均值适合为25或以上,优选35或以上,更优选45或以上,最优选60或以上。
符合式II的适合EO/PO嵌段共聚物具有CTFA名称“Poloxamine”。它们可以商品名″Tetronic″购自BASF。
适合的a的平均值为2或以上,优选4或以上,更优选8或以上,再更优选25或以上,最优选40或以上。b的平均值适合为6或以上,优选9或以上,更优选11或以上,最优选15或以上。
在式I中,表明各个聚环氧乙烷嵌段的聚合度x均相同。在式II中对EO和PO嵌段的a和b也分别均为这种情况。为了清楚起见,应指出这些聚合度是平均值,只是大致相同,而非任何具体式中均相等。这取决于制备所述化合物所用的聚合方法,并且为聚合物合成领域的技术人员所熟悉。
所述表面活性嵌段共聚物在组合物中的含量水平适合为0.01-0.4%重量,优选0.02-0.3%重量,更优选0.04-0.2%重量,再更优选0.05-0.15%重量。
聚硅氧烷调理油
根据本发明的组合物的一种基本组分是疏水聚硅氧烷调理油。为了使这种油以分散油滴形式存在于根据本发明的组合物中,其必须是水不溶性。水不溶性是指25℃下在水中的溶解度为0.01%重量或以下。
组合物中疏水调理油滴的D3,2平均粒径必须为2微米或以上,优选5微米或以上,更优选8微米或以上。组合物中油滴的平均粒径为100微米或以下,以防止出现稳定组合物以免组分分离的问题。
聚硅氧烷D3,2平均液滴直径可通过例如使用购自MalvernInstruments的2600D粒度分析仪借助于激光散射技术来测定。
组合物中存在的聚硅氧烷调理油的总量优选为组合物总重量的0.01-10%重量,更优选为0.3-5%重量,最优选0.5-3%重量。
适用作为调理油的聚硅氧烷包括聚二有机硅氧烷,特别是CTFA名称为dimethicone的聚二甲基硅氧烷。适用于本发明组合物的还有具有羟基端基的聚二甲基硅氧烷,其具有CTFA名称dimethiconol(聚二甲基硅氧烷醇)。
优选所述硅油也包括官能化聚硅氧烷。适合的官能化聚硅氧烷包括例如氨基-、羧基-、甜菜碱-、季铵-、糖-、羟基-和烷氧基-取代的聚硅氧烷。优选所述官能化聚硅氧烷包含多个取代基。
为避免产生疑问,在羟基取代的聚硅氧烷方面,只具有羟基端基的聚二甲基硅氧烷(其具有CTFA名称dimethiconol)并不认为是本发明范围内的官能化聚硅氧烷。但是,具有聚合物链上的羟基取代基的聚二甲基硅氧烷则被认为是官能化聚硅氧烷。
优选的官能化聚硅氧烷是氨基官能化聚硅氧烷。适合的氨基官能化聚硅氧烷描述于EP 455,185(Helene Curtis)并且包括如下所述的三甲基甲硅烷基amodimethicone,其具有足够的水不溶性而可用于本发明的组合物中:
Si(CH3)3-O-[Si(CH3)2-O-]x-[Si(CH3)(R-NH-CH2CH2NH2)-O-]y-Si(CH3)3
式中x+y为约50-500的数值,胺官能团的重量百分比为约0.03-8%重量,并且其中R为具有2到5个碳原子的亚烷基。优选数值x+y为100到300,胺官能团重量百分比为约0.03-8%重量。
此中所述的胺官能基的重量百分比通过用盐酸乙醇溶液滴定氨基官能聚硅氧烷样品到溴甲酚绿终点来测量。胺的重量百分比使用45的分子量(相应于CH3-CH2-NH2)来计算。
以这种方式测得和计算得到的胺官能团重量百分比为0.03-8%重量,优选0.5-4%重量。
可用于本发明组合物的聚硅氧烷组分中的商品氨基官能化聚硅氧烷的一个例子是可购自Dow Corning的DC-8566(INCI名称:二甲基、甲基(氨基乙基氨基异丁基)聚硅氧烷)。其具有约1.4%的胺官能团重量百分比。
“氨基官能聚硅氧烷”是指含至少一个伯胺基、仲胺基或叔胺基或季铵基的聚硅氧烷。适合的氨基官能聚硅氧烷包括:具有CTFA名称“amodimethicone″的聚硅氧烷。适用于本发明的氨基官能聚硅氧烷的具体例子是氨基硅油DC-8220、DC-8166、DC-8466和DC-8950-114(均来自Dow Corning),和GE 1149-75(来自General ElectricSilicones)。适合的季铵硅氧烷聚合物描述于EP-A-0530974。一种优选的季铵硅氧烷聚合物为来自Goldschmidt的K3474。
用作疏水调理油组分的另一种优选的官能聚硅氧烷是烷氧基取代的聚硅氧烷。这种分子被称为聚硅氧烷共聚醇并且具有一个或多个与硅氧烷聚合物骨架键合(任选通过烷基连接基)的聚环氧乙烷或聚环氧丙烷基。
一类可用于本发明组合物的聚硅氧烷共聚醇的一个非限定性实例具有下式的分子结构:
Si(CH3)3[O-Si(CH3)(A)]p-[O-Si(CH3)(B)]q-O-Si(CH3)3
上式中,A为具有1-22个碳原子的亚烷基链,优选具有4-18个碳原子,更优选具有10-16个碳原子。B为具有-(R)-(EO)r(PO)s-OH结构的基团,其中R为连接基团,优选具有1-3个碳原子的亚烷基。优选R为-(CH2)2-。r和s的平均值为5或以上,优选10或以上,更优选15或以上。优选r和s的平均值为100或以下。式中,p的值适合为10或以上,优选20或以上,更优选50或以上,最优选100或以上。适合的q值为1-20,其中p/q比值优选为10或以上,更优选20或以上。p+q的值为11-500,优选50-300。
适合的聚硅氧烷共聚醇具有的HLB为10或以下,优选7或以下,更优选4或以下。一种适合的聚硅氧烷共聚醇为可购自Dow Corning的称为Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18methicone(INCI名称)的DC5200。
亲水/亲脂平衡或HLB是本领域技术人员熟悉的用于表征表面活性分子和乳化剂的参数。
实验测定HLB的适合方法参见Griffin W.C,Journal of the Societyof Cosmetic Chemists,Vol 1,p311(1949)。商品聚硅氧烷共聚醇由DowCorning与其HLB值一起提供。
优选使用官能聚硅氧烷和非官能聚硅氧烷的组合物作为调理油。优选在混入到本发明的组合物中之前将聚硅氧烷混入到普通液滴中。
与组合物其他组分分离后测得的硅油掺合物的粘度(即不是预成乳液的粘度,而是形成疏水调理油的聚硅氧烷掺合物的粘度)适合为1,000-2,000,000mm2/s(25℃),优选为5,000mm2/s-1,000,000mm2/s(25℃),更优选10,000-500,000mm2/s(25℃),最优选50,000-300,000mm2/s(25℃)。适合测定硅油运动粘度的方法为本领域技术人员所熟悉,例如毛细管粘度计法。
对于高粘度的聚硅氧烷来说,可使用恒定应力流变仪测量粘度。
阳离子沉积聚合物
阳离子沉积聚合物常用于头发滋养组合物,用于增强调理性能。但是这导致阳离子聚合物也保持粘附在头发上的问题,某些情况下这可导致某些消费者在使用这些清洁和调理组合物后带来数小时头发肮脏、粘重的感觉。
所述阳离子聚合物可以是均聚物或者由两种或多种类型的单体形成。聚合物的分子量通常在5000到10,000,000统一原子量单位,一般至少10000并优选100,000到2,000,000。所述聚合物具有阳离子含氮基团诸如季铵基或质子化氨基,或它们的混合物。
高度优选本发明的组合物应包含0.04%重量以下的这种阳离子沉积聚合物,更优选包含0.02%重量以下,再更优选0.01%重量以下。最优选组合物中没有这种聚合物。
组合物的制备
一种制备本发明组合物的方法是将聚硅氧烷调理油连同包括滋发剂组合物的其他组分一起加入,接着将组合物适当混合从而确保共混物以适合尺寸的液滴分散。
但是,优选在将疏水聚硅氧烷调理油混入到滋发剂组合物前首先形成含水乳液。因此本发明的另一方面是制备含水头发调理组合物的方法,所述方法包括下面步骤:
i)制备包括水和表面活性嵌段共聚物的溶液,
ii)将聚硅氧烷调理油加入到溶液中,
iii)通过高剪切混合将溶液和聚硅氧烷调理油形成水包油乳液,
iv)将包括嵌段共聚物的水包油乳液分散到头发调理组合物中。
制备本发明的头发调理组合物的另一种优选方法包括下面步骤:
i)制备聚硅氧烷调理油的水包油乳液,
ii)将表面活性嵌段共聚物分散到乳液中,
iii)将包括嵌段共聚物的所述水包油乳液分散到头发调理组合物中。
适用于制备含水乳液的乳化剂为本领域人们所熟悉,并且包括阴离子、阳离子、两性离子、两性和非离子表面活性剂和它们的混合物。用作聚硅氧烷颗粒的乳化剂的阴离子表面活性剂的例子有烷基芳基磺酸盐,如十二烷基苯磺酸钠;烷基硫酸盐,如月桂基硫酸钠;烷基醚硫酸盐,如月桂基醚硫酸钠nEO,其中n为1到20;烷基苯酚醚硫酸盐,如辛基苯酚醚硫酸盐nEO,其中n为1到20;和磺基琥珀酸盐,如双辛基磺基琥珀酸钠。
适用作为聚硅氧烷液滴的乳化剂的非离子表面活性剂的例子为烷基苯酚乙氧基化物,例如壬基苯酚乙氧基化物nEO,其中n为1到50;和醇乙氧基化物,如月桂醇nEO,其中n为1到50;酯乙氧基化物,如聚环氧乙烷单硬脂酸酯,其中氧乙烯单元的数目为1到30个。
可混入到滋发剂组合物中的混合聚硅氧烷液滴的水包油乳液的一种优选制备方法包括使用混合器。
根据聚硅氧烷混合物组分的粘度,应选择适合的混合器从而提供足够的剪切来获得所需的最终粒径的乳液。覆盖所需剪切范围的适合半敞开(benchtop)混合器的例子是Heidolph RZR2100、Silverson L4R和Ystral X10/20-750。其他类似技术规格的混合器为本领域技术人员所熟悉并且可在本用途中使用。同样,可以在更大型的提供与上述相同剪切状况的混合器上制备所述的水包油乳液。
优选所述混合器也能控制混合时的温度,例如混合器包括可循环传热流体的夹套。
优选乳液的水相包含聚合物增稠剂以防止制备后乳液的相分离。优选的增稠剂是交联聚丙烯酸酯、纤维素聚合物或纤维素聚合物的衍生物。
清洁用表面活性剂
根据本发明的组合物将包括化妆品上可接受并适合于局部施用于头发的一种或多种清洁用表面活性剂。如果用于水不溶性油性组分的乳化剂不能提供足够的清洁,还可存在作为另加成分的其他表面活性剂。优选本发明的洗发剂组合物包括至少一种其他表面活性剂(除了用作聚硅氧烷组分的乳化剂外)以提供清洁效能。
可单独或组合使用的适合清洁用表面活性剂选自阴离子、两性和两性离子表面活性剂,和它们的混合物。所述清洁用表面活性剂可以是与乳化剂相同的表面活性剂,也可以是不同的表面活性剂。
在本发明的组合物中表面活性剂(包括辅表面活性剂和/或乳化剂)的总量一般占组合物重量的1-50%重量,优选2-40%重量,更优选10-25%重量。
阴离子清洁用表面活性剂
本发明的洗发剂组合物一般包括一种或多种阴离子清洁用表面活性剂,它们为化妆品上可接受并且适合于局部施用于头发。
适合的阴离子清洁用表面活性剂的例子是烷基硫酸盐、烷基醚硫酸盐、烷芳基磺酸盐、烷酰基羟乙磺酸盐、烷基琥珀酸盐、烷基磺基琥珀酸盐、N-烷基肌氨酸盐、烷基磷酸盐、烷基醚磷酸盐、烷基醚羧酸盐和α-烯烃磺酸盐,特别是其钠盐、镁盐、铵盐和单、二和三乙醇胺盐。所述烷基和酰基通常含8-18个碳原子并可不饱和。所述烷基醚硫酸盐、烷基醚磷酸盐和烷基醚羧酸盐每分子可包含1-10个环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷单元。
用于本发明洗发剂组合物的典型阴离子清洁用表面活性剂包括油基琥珀酸钠、月桂基磺基琥珀酸铵、月桂基硫酸铵、十二烷基苯磺酸钠、十二烷基苯磺酸三乙醇铵、椰油基羟乙磺酸钠、月桂基羟乙磺酸钠和N-月桂基肌氨酸钠。最优选的阴离子表面活性剂是月桂基硫酸钠、月桂基醚硫酸钠(n)EO(其中n为1-3)、月桂基硫酸铵和月桂基醚硫酸铵(n)EO(其中n为1-3)。
任何前述阴离子清洁用表面活性剂的混合物也是适用的。
在本发明的洗发剂组合物中阴离子清洁用表面活性剂的总量通常为组合物重量的0.5-45%重量,优选1.5-35%重量,更优选5-20%重量。
为清楚起见,表面活性嵌段共聚物在此并不被认为是清洁用表面活性剂。
辅表面活性剂
所述组合物可包括辅表面活性剂,以帮助赋予组合物美学、物理或清洁性质。
一个优选例子是两性或两性离子表面活性剂,其可以0到约8%重量,优选1-4%重量的量包括在组合物中。
两性和两性离子表面活性剂的例子包括烷基氧化胺、烷基甜菜碱、烷基酰胺基丙基甜菜碱、烷基磺基甜菜碱、烷基氨基乙酸盐、烷基羧基氨基乙酸盐、烷基两性丙酸盐、烷基两性氨基乙酸盐、烷基酰氨丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、酰基牛磺酸盐和酰基谷氨酸盐,其中所述烷基和酰基具有8-19个碳原子。用于本发明洗发剂中的典型两性和两性离子表面活性剂包括月桂基氧化胺、椰油二甲基磺基丙基甜菜碱,优选月桂基甜菜碱、椰油酰氨丙基甜菜碱和椰油两性丙酸钠。
另一个优选的例子是非离子表面活性剂,其可以0-8%重量并优选2-5%重量的量包括在组合物中。
例如,可包括在本发明洗发剂组合物中的代表性非离子表面活性剂包括脂族(C8-C18)伯或仲线性或支链醇或酚与氧化烯(通常为氧乙烯并且通常具有6-30个氧乙烯基)的缩合产物。
其他代表性的非离子表面活性剂包括单-或双-烷基链烷醇酰胺。例子包括椰油单-或双乙醇酰胺和椰油单异丙醇酰胺。
可包括在本发明洗发剂组合物中的其他非离子表面活性剂为烷基聚糖苷(各种APG)。一般来说,所述APG包括连接(任选经桥基)到一个或多个糖基嵌段的烷基。优选的各种APG由下式定义:
RO-(G)n
式中R为分支或直链烷基,其可饱和或不饱和,并且G为糖基。
R可代表约C5-C20的平均烷基链长。优选R代表约C8-C12的平均烷基链长。最优选R的值介于约9.5-10.5之间。G可选自C5或C6单糖残基,并且优选葡糖苷。G可选自葡萄糖、木糖、乳糖、果糖、甘露糖及其衍生物。优选G为葡萄糖。
聚合度n可具有约1-10或以上的值。优选n的值介于约1.1-2之间。最优选n的值介于约1.3-1.5之间。
适用于本发明的烷基聚糖苷是可购置的商品,包括例如可购自Seppic的Oramix NSIO;可购自Henkel的Plantaren 1200和Plantaren2000。
可包括在本发明组合物中的其他源于糖的非离子表面活性剂包括C10-C18N-烷基(C1-C6)多羟基脂肪酸酰胺,诸如C12-C18N-甲基葡糖酰胺(如在WO 9206154和US 5194639中所述),以及N-烷氧基多羟基脂肪酸酰胺,诸如C10-C18N-(3-甲氧基丙基)葡糖酰胺。
根据本发明的组合物也可任选包括一种或多种阳离子辅表面活性剂,其在组合物中的量为0.01-10%重量,更优选0.05-5%重量,最优选0.05-2%重量。
一种优选的表面活性剂的共混物是月桂基醚硫酸铵、月桂基硫酸铵、PEG 5椰油酰胺和椰油酰胺MEA(CTFA名称)的组合。
悬浮剂
优选根据本发明的组合物还包括0.1-10%重量、优选0.6-6%重量的悬浮剂。适合的悬浮剂选自聚丙烯酸、丙烯酸的交联聚合物、丙烯酸与疏水单体的共聚物、含羧酸单体和丙烯酸酯的共聚物、丙烯酸和丙烯酸酯的交联共聚物、杂多糖树胶和晶态长链酰基衍生物。所述长链酰基衍生物需要选自乙二醇硬脂酸酯、具有16-22个碳原子的脂肪酸的链烷醇酰胺及其混合物。乙二醇二硬脂酸酯和聚乙二醇三(二硬脂酸酯)为优选的长链酰基衍生物。聚丙烯酸可以Carbopol420、Carbopol 488或Carbopol 493的商品名购置。也可使用与多官能剂交联的丙烯酸的聚合物(称为交联聚丙烯酸酯),它们可以Carbopol 910、Carbopol 934、Carbopol 940、Carbopol 941和Carbopol980的商品名购置。含羧酸单体和丙烯酸酯的适合共聚物的一个例子是Carbopol 1342。所有Carbopol(商标)材料均购自Goodrich。交联聚丙烯酸酯的CTFA名称为Carbomer。
丙烯酸和丙烯酸酯的适合交联聚合物是Pemulen TR1或PemulenTR2。一种适合的杂多糖树胶是汉生胶,例如商品名为Kelzan mu的汉生胶。
助剂
本发明的组合物也可包含适合于头发护理的助剂。一般来说,这种成分各至多占组合物总重量的2%重量,优选至多占1%重量。
在适合的头发护理助剂中,有天然发根滋养剂诸如氨基酸和糖。适合的氨基酸的例子包括精氨酸、半胱氨酸、谷氨酰胺、谷氨酸、异亮氨酸、亮氨酸、蛋氨酸、丝氨酸和缬氨酸,和/或它们的前体和衍生物。所述氨基酸可单独加入,或以混合物形式加入,或以肽如二肽和三肽的形式加入。所述氨基酸也可以蛋白质水解物(如角蛋白或胶原蛋白水解物)的形式加入。适合的糖有葡萄糖、右旋糖和果糖。它们可单独加入或以例如水果提取物的形式加入。本发明组合物中包括的一种特别优选的天然发根滋养剂的组合是异亮氨酸和葡萄糖。一种特别优选的氨基酸滋养剂是精氨酸。另一种适合的助剂是乙醇酸。
任选成分
本发明的组合物可包含任何常用于洗发剂配方中的其他成分。这些其他成分可包括粘度改进剂、防腐剂、着色剂、多元醇诸如甘油和聚丙二醇、螯合剂诸如EDTA、抗氧化剂、香料、杀菌剂和防晒剂。各所述成分以能有效完成其功效的量存在。一般来说,这些任选成分各可占组合物总重量的最多达5%重量。
摩丝
本发明的头发滋养、清洁和调理组合物也可采用气溶胶形式(摩丝),在这种情况下组合物中包括喷射剂。喷射剂用于从容器喷出其他材料并且形成头发摩丝特性。
所述喷射剂气体可以是常用于气溶胶容器的任何可液化气体。适合喷射剂的例子包括二甲醚、丙烷、正丁烷和异丁烷,它们单独使用或混合使用。
喷射剂气体的用量由气溶胶领域人们熟悉的标准(normal)因子控制。对于发用摩丝来说,喷射剂的用量通常为组合物总重量的3-30%重量,优选5-15%重量。
使用方式
本发明的组合物主要拟以洗除滋养剂形式局部施用于使用者的头发和/或头皮和/或皮肤以清洁头发或身体并同时改善发纤维表面性质如光滑度、柔软度、可打理性、角质层完整性和光泽。一般来说,这种组合物在本领域被称为洗发剂、清洁用摩丝或淋浴胶。
具体而言,本发明的组合物用于改善聚硅氧烷调理油在相对于头发的发根区的梢发区的沉积。
因此本发明的一个方面包括通过施用根据本发明的组合物并接着漂洗来清洁和调理头发的方法。
本发明将通过下面的非限定性实施例进一步说明。
实施例
实施例1-9为根据本发明的实施例。
实施例A-C为对比例。
表1
成分 | 商品名 | 供应商 | 实施例A%重量 | 实施例B、C和1-6%重量 |
月桂基醚硫酸钠(2EO) | EmpicolESB70 | Albright&Wilson | 16 | 16 |
椰油酰胺基丙基甜菜碱 | TegobetaineCK | Goldschmidt | 2 | 2 |
PDMS液(760,000mm<sup>2</sup>/sec) | DC200 | Dow Corning | 1 | 1 |
嵌段共聚物 | 各种(见表2) | - | - | 0.05 |
氯化钠 | 盐 | BDH | 1 | 1 |
水 | - | - | 到100 | 到100 |
使用适合的非离子乳化剂和嵌段共聚物(如表中所示)形成DC200的含水乳液,如上所述制备表1中的组合物。然后将得到的乳液与除盐外的其他成分一起共混。最后加入盐以稠化组合物。
试验方法
将经14%SLES 2EO和2%椰油酰胺基丙基甜菜碱的水溶液清洗并接着彻底漂清的0.25g/5cm的梢发簇用于该实验。将受试洗发剂用蒸馏水稀释到1/10(重量)并用磁力搅拌器充分搅拌。将5簇置于半边的陪替氏培养皿中。将1.5ml稀洗发剂顺着发簇的长度方向放置,然后在培养皿中搅拌30秒钟,接着用40℃自来水(12°French hard)漂洗30秒钟,流速设定在3-4L/min。重复使用受试洗发剂溶液的洗涤过程并再接着漂洗。然后让发簇在25℃和45-60%的相对湿度下自然干燥。
用0.25g/5cm的根发样品进行相同顺序的实验。
使用X-射线荧光光度计测定沉积在头发样品上的聚硅氧烷的量(以ppm硅为单位)。
分析结果
以百分比表示的绝对选择性为梢发样的硅含量(ppm)与根发样的硅含量(ppm)的比值乘以100。
然后从各种其他实施例配方中计算得到的绝对选择性减去从实施例A(没有嵌段共聚物)计算得到的绝对选择性而得到目标分数。结果显示于下面的表2中。5%或以下的目标分数被认为是非显著值。
表2
实施例 | 聚合物乳化剂 | x或a | y或b | 分子量 | 目标分数(%) |
A | 无(DC200基准) | - | 0 | ||
B | Pluronic F38 | 42 | 16 | 4700 | 0 |
C | Pluronic P84 | 19 | 39 | 4200 | 5 |
1 | Pluronic F68 | 76 | 30 | 8400 | 12 |
2 | Pluronic F88 | 104 | 39 | 11400 | 10 |
3 | Pluronic F77 | 52 | 35 | 6600 | 9 |
4 | Pluronic F98 | 123 | 47 | 13000 | 9 |
5 | Pluronic F127 | 99 | 69 | 12600 | 24 |
6 | Tetronic T1307 | 72 | 23 | 18000 | 38 |
所述Pluronic和Tetronic样品可以表中所列的商品名购自BASF。
对于实施例中的Pluronic和Tetronic嵌段共聚物,表2中样品代码中的最后数字是指嵌段共聚物中聚环氧乙烷的重量百分比(即P84包括40%的聚环氧乙烷,T1307包括70%的聚环氧乙烷)。
表3
DC5200为可购自Dow Corning的聚硅氧烷共聚醇,其具有远低于10的HLB。
DC8566为amodimethicone(氨基-官能化的聚硅氧烷),其可购自Dow Corning。
如表1实施例那样制备表3中的实施例,但对于实施例8和9来说,则在乳化前将官能化聚硅氧烷混入到PDMS液中以确保两种聚硅氧烷存在于普通液滴中。
表4
实施例 | 目标分数(%) |
A | 0 |
7 | 24 |
8 | 166 |
9 | 78 |
表4中的结果表明根据本发明的实施例7到9比非本发明的实施例A有显著高的发梢目标分数。
Claims (15)
1.一种洗除型含水头发调理组合物,所述组合物包括:
a)1-50%重量的清洁用表面活性剂,
b)包括水不溶性聚硅氧烷调理油的不连续分散液滴,其特征在于所述液滴的平均直径(D3,2)为2到100微米,和
c)平均分子量为7000或以上统一原子量单位的表面活性嵌段共聚物,包括聚环氧乙烷和聚环氧丙烷嵌段,其中各嵌段包括2个或多个环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷单体单元,并且在所述嵌段共聚物中环氧丙烷单体单元的平均数为25或以上。
2.权利要求1的组合物,其中所述表面活性嵌段共聚物符合式I:
式中x的平均值为4或以上,y的平均值为25或以上。
4.前述权利要求中任一项的组合物,所述组合物包括0.01-0.4%重量的表面活性嵌段共聚物。
5.权利要求1-3中任一项的组合物,其中所述聚硅氧烷调理油在25℃下的粘度为5000-1000000mm2/s。
6.权利要求1-3中任一项的组合物,其中所述聚硅氧烷调理油包括官能化聚硅氧烷。
7.权利要求6的组合物,其中所述官能化聚硅氧烷为具有10或以下HLB的聚硅氧烷共聚醇。
8.权利要求6的组合物,其中所述官能化聚硅氧烷为氨基官能化聚硅氧烷。
9.权利要求8的组合物,其中所述氨基官能化聚硅氧烷具有0.03-8%重量的氨基官能团。
10.权利要求9的组合物,其中所述氨基官能化聚硅氧烷具有0.5-4%重量的氨基官能团。
11.权利要求1-3中任一项的组合物,所述组合物包括少于0.01%重量的阳离子沉积聚合物。
12.权利要求1-3中任一项的组合物,其中所述清洁用表面活性剂选自阴离子、两性、两性离子和非离子表面活性剂及其混合物。
13.权利要求1到12中任一项的组合物在清洁和调理头发中的用途。
14.一种清洁和调理头发的方法,所述方法包括施用权利要求1到12中任一项的组合物并接着漂洗除去。
15.权利要求1到12中任一项的组合物在改善聚硅氧烷调理油在与发根区相应的发梢区上的沉积中的用途。
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WO2024078913A1 (en) | 2022-10-11 | 2024-04-18 | Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. | Hair care compositions and methods |
WO2024099788A1 (en) | 2022-11-09 | 2024-05-16 | Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. | Hair treatment compositions and methods |
WO2024223432A1 (en) | 2023-04-28 | 2024-10-31 | Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. | Hair treatment compositions |
WO2024223430A1 (en) | 2023-04-28 | 2024-10-31 | Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. | Hair treatment compositions |
WO2024223431A1 (en) | 2023-04-28 | 2024-10-31 | Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. | Hair treatment compositions |
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- 2003-04-23 BR BR0309945-8A patent/BR0309945A/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2003-04-23 ES ES03720518T patent/ES2279106T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2003-04-23 CN CNB038157616A patent/CN100444822C/zh not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2003-04-23 JP JP2004502961A patent/JP4165713B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2003-04-23 EP EP03720518A patent/EP1505949B1/en not_active Revoked
- 2003-04-23 AT AT03720518T patent/ATE353237T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2003-04-23 RU RU2004136171/15A patent/RU2313335C2/ru active
- 2003-04-23 WO PCT/EP2003/004239 patent/WO2003094874A1/en active IP Right Grant
- 2003-04-23 AU AU2003224118A patent/AU2003224118A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2003-04-23 DE DE60311648T patent/DE60311648T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2003-04-23 MX MXPA04011178A patent/MXPA04011178A/es active IP Right Grant
- 2003-04-23 US US10/514,217 patent/US20060057097A1/en not_active Abandoned
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
CN1665471A (zh) | 2005-09-07 |
EP1505949B1 (en) | 2007-02-07 |
AU2003224118A1 (en) | 2003-11-11 |
ES2279106T3 (es) | 2007-08-16 |
WO2003094874A1 (en) | 2003-11-20 |
US20060057097A1 (en) | 2006-03-16 |
MXPA04011178A (es) | 2005-02-17 |
DE60311648D1 (de) | 2007-03-22 |
JP4165713B2 (ja) | 2008-10-15 |
DE60311648T2 (de) | 2007-05-31 |
BR0309945A (pt) | 2005-02-22 |
EP1505949A1 (en) | 2005-02-16 |
ATE353237T1 (de) | 2007-02-15 |
JP2005529144A (ja) | 2005-09-29 |
RU2313335C2 (ru) | 2007-12-27 |
RU2004136171A (ru) | 2005-07-10 |
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