The Passionate Foodie

It is time for the Recap of Wine Blogging Wednesday #72: Helping Japan.

As you will recall, on Friday, March 11, a massive earthquake, one of the largest in recorded history, struck northern Japan, triggering a devastating tsunami that has affected millions of people. Over 3,000 people have lost their lives and thousands more have remained unaccounted. The destruction has been so extensive that millions of families have been displaced in search of water, food and shelter far from damaged nuclear reactors. Obviously, this has been a terrible tragedy, pulling at every one of our heartstrings with the innate desire to help, to give something that might make their lives easier.

For this WBW theme, participants had two options, to either drink and review a Sake or drink and review wine that pairs well with Japanese cuisine. You could earn bonus points by reviewing multiple Sakés, pairing Saké with food, or drinking wine with Japanese food.

Unfortunately, we had a very low turnout for this event. So even more kudos go out to those who did participate. It is interesting too that most of the participants were from outside of the U.S., including three from Canada, one from Finland and one from Kenya. It is very pleasing to me that the participants largely seemed to enjoy the sakes they tasted.

Holly, of Wine Out Loud, is a first timer to WBW and tasted three sakes, earning bonus points.  All three were from the Hakutsuru Brewery, and included a Junmai Ginjo, an organic Junmai Ginjo and a Nigori.  She enjoyed these three sakes with some sushi and teriyaki chicken, earning even more bonus points.  I am pleased she enjoyed the sake, as well as the fact she shared them with some friends.

Todd, of Vermont Wine Press, also earned plenty of bonus points and kudos for drinking multiple sakes, paired with food, and with friends. He tasted the Nanbu Bijin "Southern Beauty" Junmai Ginjo, Tentaka Kuni "Hawk in the Heavens" Junmai, Kaguyahime "Radiant-night Princess" Junmai and Hakushika "White Deer" Junmai Ginjo. Their homemade dinner included brown rice miso soup, smoked salmon and avocado maki, squid and vegetable fried rice, and teriyaki chicken legs. Todd earns even more kudos though for reviewing the sakes in haiku, my favorite type of Japanese poetry.   

Bob, of 2001 Bottles - A Wine Odyssey, tasted a sake from Oregon, the Momokawa Organic Junmai Ginjo. He earns bonus points for pairing the sake with Japanese cuisine, and he enjoyed the Momokawa. Though not a sake, Bob also reviewed a Shochu. Though Bob's was from Vietnam, plenty of Shochu is made in Japan and kudos still go to Bob for trying something different for WBW.

Mshamba, of The Kenyan Wine Blog, posted an interesting video review of a sake, the Black Bottle Junmai. He really enjoyed this sake, and it was amusing to hear him talk about a sake he has previously tasted which was just terrible. I would not have expected sake to be available in Kenya, but I am glad that it can be found there.

Aleksi, of Aleksi Mehtonen, also did an extensive video review of a number of sakes at a restaurant in Helsinki. He earns bonus points for tasting many different sakes, and kudos for interviewing the sommelier who led the sake tasting. Aleksi really gave his all to this tasting and you should watch his video.

Bethany, of Second Ferment, chose to review a wine, Oroya, that pairs well with Japanese cuisine. Oroya is a Spanish white wine, a blend of Airen, Macabeo, and Moscatel, and was specifically produced to be paired with sushi. Bethany found it to work great with a variety of Japanese dishes, and her description of the wine makes it sound very appealing.

Matthew, of A Good Time With Wine, was another person with a video for WBW, which has an informative interview with Tara Fougner of Ty Ku.  Ty Ku produces sake in the U.S. and Japan, as well as soju and a soju-based liqeuer. Matthew seemed very excited to learn more about sake, and will even be posting more sake-related posts in the future. Keep an eye on his blog.  

Finally, you can check out my own WBW #72 post, a review of the first 100% organic Japanese sake.

Thanks very much to everyone who participated in WBW #72, and thanks very much to everyone who donated to help Japan through the links on these WBW posts. You can still give to this worthy cause by clicking on the American Red Cross site and donate whatever you can.

Kanpai!

(Yes, April 6 was Wine Blogging Wednesday #72, Helping Japan, so my post is a bit late but I was out of the country for two weeks.)

On Friday, March 11, a massive earthquake, one of the largest in recorded history, struck northern Japan, triggering a devastating tsunami that has affected millions of people. Over 3,000 people have lost their lives and thousands more have remained unaccounted. The destruction has been so extensive that millions of families have been displaced in search of water, food and shelter far from damaged nuclear reactors. Obviously, this has been a terrible tragedy, pulling at every one of our heartstrings with the innate desire to help, to give something that might make their lives easier.

The people of Japan need humanitarian assistance - they need our assistance - to help overcome the devastation. This is why Gabriella and Ryan Opaz of  Catavino and I came up of the idea of hosting an event to support Japan, using Wine Blogging Wednesday as our perfect vehicle.  Lenn, the originator of WBW, was quick to support the idea, allowing us to pitch Wine Blog Wednesday #72: Helping Japan. For this theme, participants had two options, to either drink and review a Sake or drink and review wine that pairs well with Japanese cuisine.  Of course, I chose to drink a sake.

I received a sample of the Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo, which may be the first 100% Japanese, USDA-certified organic sake.  You might see other organic sakes on the market, from producers such as Kikusui and SakeOne, but they use rice grown in the U.S.  The rice used for this Chikurin is grown entirely in Japan, and by the brewery itself. So why is there so little organic sake coming out of Japan?  

Most of the rice grown in Japan is cultivated on hillside terraces so water filters down through the terraces from the top of the hill.  Thus, if you want to be organic, all of your neighbors above you on the hill must also be organic, or their water would corrupt your efforts.  Plus, it can be difficult if your close neighbors use pesticides, which can easily blow in the wind onto your terraces.  So, being organic is very difficult in Japan, though I think it is likely you will see more organic cultivation in the near future. 

The Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo ($50) is made by the Marumoto Brewery, located in Okayama, and exclusively imported by Joto Sake, an importer of artisanal Japanese sake. The Marumoto Brewery, founded in 1867, was originally called Shimizu-ya (which means “spring water store”) because it was built at the site of an important water source. Marumoto launched the Chikurin brand in 1990, the first 100% estate bottled sake.

Marumoto is sometimes known as Nousan Sakagura, the "Farmers’ Brewery," because the farmers who cultivate the rice are also the ones who brew the sake. In addition, the rice is grown at lower yields, thus increasing the amount of starch in the rice while lowering the amount of proteins.  In 2009, they attained USDA organic certification, under the direction of Ecocert SA.

The name of the sake, “Karoyaka,” means “lightness.”  It is produced from 100% Yamada Nishiki rice, and has a rice polishing rate of 50%, which would qualify it as a daiginjo but the brewery has chosen to label it as a ginjo. This is obviously a high quality, and very artisan sake, which has also taken great work in the fields to produce organic rice.  So the price is clearly indicative of these intense efforts and thus, the sake is reasonably priced.        

This is a very interesting sake, with a harmonious and complex melange of flavors, and a clean and light profile.  There are herbal notes accompanied by some cherry flavor and hints of melon. And if you concentrate more, you can detect even more subtle flavors beneath those primary ones.  It is dry, with good acidity, and a pleasant and lingering finish.  It is supposed to pair well with oysters and white fish, and I do think it would work well in those regards.  I paired it with a simple roast chicken and enjoyed how the sake complemented the moist and tender meat.  This is a sake for connoisseurs who will enjoy its complexity, yet it is still very approachable for newcomers too. It gets my highest recommendation.

Please help the people of Japan overcome the effects of this terrible tragedy.  If you can give, please click on the American Red Cross site and donate whatever you can. Thanks very much.

On Friday, March 11, a massive earthquake, one of the largest in recorded history, struck northern Japan, triggering a devastating tsunami that has affected millions of people. Over 3,000 people have lost their lives and thousands more have remained unaccounted. The destruction has been so extensive that millions of families have been displaced in search of water, food and shelter far from damaged nuclear reactors. Obviously, this has been a terrible tragedy, pulling at every one of our heartstrings with the innate desire to help, to give something that might make their lives easier.

The people of Japan need humanitarian assistance - they need our assistance - to help overcome the devastation. This is why Gabriella and Ryan Opaz of  Catavino and I came up of the idea of hosting an event to support Japan, using Wine Blogging Wednesday as ur perfect vehicle.  Lenn, the originator of WBW, was quick to support the idea, allowing us to pitch Wine Blog Wednesday #72: Helping Japan.

As we want to Help Japan, then the theme for WBW #72 should be Japan-related and that is what will be done.  The theme gives you two options, hopefully making it flexible enough that we will garner plenty of participation.  First, you can drink and review a Sake, Japan's iconic beverage. You will earn bonus points if you review multiple Sakés of different styles or types. You will also earn bonus points for pairing Saké with food. I would love to see lots of bloggers try some sake, to expand their palates, but I know that it can be difficult for some to obtain sake. 

Thus, the second option is that you can drink a wine that pairs well with Japanese cuisine.  Japanese cuisine is very diverse, from sushi to sukiyaki, so there are many wines which will pair well with different dishes. Sparkling, white, red, rose and dessert wines will all pair with some Japanese dish.  You'll earn bonus points if you actuallly drink the wine with Japanese food.

Saké, also known as nihonshu, is a beverage that I believe in taste, style and food compatibility most resembles wine. It is an incredibly diverse beverage with a wide range of styles and flavor profiles. You can find everything from Sparkling Saké to Koshu, aged Saké. Almost everyone should be able to find some type of Saké that will appeal to them.  The traditional Saké toast is "Kanpai", a rough equivalent to "cheers" though with a deeper meaning. This Japanese term literally translates as "empty or dry cup" though it really means "Let us drain our cups in friendship." Saké is very much a social drink.

Wine Blog Wednesday continues its return and this time I want to support an underdog grape. (Which is nothing unusual for me.)

Tim of Winecast is the host for WBW #71, and the theme is Rhones Not From The Rhône. He asked the participants to "Pick any wine made from a variety best known in The Rhône but not made in that famous French region. It doesn’t matter if the wine is white, pink or red; still, sparkling or fortified. Whatever you choose just needs to be made from primarily a Rhone grape and come from a region not in France."  That should have been a relatively easy theme as Rhone grapes are grown all over the world, and many regions are making quite excellent wines from them.

I selected a wine made from 100% Carignan, a grape that has been widely planted all over the world yet is mainly used as a blending grape.  Single varietal versions of Carignan are much rarer, but I believe more wineries should be exploring the possibility.  Carignan likely originated in Spain, where it is known as Cariñena, and spread from there.  In 1988, it became the most widely planted grape in France, though that would decline after cash subsidies were offered to pull up vines, and Carignan became a main target.  It is still used there though, used in some Rhone blends, primarily to add color to the wines.

Some professional critics have been disdainful of carignan.  Jancis Robinson once said that its "wine is high in everything - acidity, tannins, colour, bitterness - but finesse and charm." Though more recently she has been less critical, though still seeing fault in some carignan, mainly from a "combination of high acidity and green, unripe flavours."  Other critics, like Eric Asimov, have been more supportive of carignan.  There is even a group, the Carignan Renaissance, which is trying to raise public awareness of the potential of this grape.

I chose to drink a 2007 Sutton Cellars Carignane "Piferro Vineyard" ($17.99).  Located in San Francisco, Carl Sutton founded the winery in 1996 and I have been fortunate to meet Carl a couple times when he came to Boston.  Carl is down-to-earth, passionate and the type of person with which you would love to share a drink. You can read my previous article for more details on Carl and his winery. 

In short, Sutton Cellars is a small artisan winery, producing only about 3000 cases per year, most of the wines produced in lots of about 100-300 cases. The wines are hand filled, hand corked, fermented with wild yeast, unfined and unfiltered. Most of the wines have less than 14% alcohol, high acidity and use less oak than many other California wines.   

The 2007 Carignane "Piferro Vineyard" is the second vintage that has come from this vineyard, which is located in the Redwood Valley. The grapes are about 70 years old, grow on red, iron-rich soils loaded with rocks and only 268 cases were produced. I have previously tasted the 2005 Sutton Cellars Carignane, from the Trimble Vineyard in Mendocino County, and very much enjoyed it. This new vintage is equally as delicious, with plenty of lush blueberry flavor, blackberry and mild spice notes. It has have plenty of acidity, but I don't see that as a problem as the wine is very balanced.  I also did not detect any green, unripe flavors, which would have really turned me off. 

It is an easy drinking wine, but with appealing character, and would be an perfect pairing with burgers, pizza, or even pasta. This is a wine that after I had a glass, I very much wanted a second, and even a third. I paired this with my dinner, egg noodles with ground pork and pork ravioli, all with a slightly spicy sauce. I think it actually worked well, as the pork and spice flavors complemented the lush fruit flavors of the wine.  The wine did not overwhelm the food, and we finished off the entire bottle that evening. 

This is a wine I highly recommend, and which I will definitely be buying again.  I hope that others will try single varietal Carignan too, and if you have done so already, please share your experiences in the comments.

Thanks to Lenn for bringing back Wine Blog Wednesday, and thanks to Tim for this new theme.  I'll be looking forward to WBW#72 next month as well.

After a hiatus of nine months, Wine Blog Wednesday has returned!

I am especially glad to see it return as I was the host for the last one, WBW #69, and did not want to be seen as even partially responsible for killing off WBW. Only five people participated in WBW #69, and I fervently hope that many more people will participate in this new event.  It is a cool and fun event and worthy of participation by many wine bloggers. 

Ryan and Gabriella, the fine people behind Catavino, are the hosts for WBW #70, and the theme is Spain. They asked the participants to "Seek out Spanish wines that you’ve never had before! Get creative! Hunt for unique styles such as a Sherry, Cava, Fondillon or Mistella; an unheard of region like Arribes, Txakoli de Alava or Extremadura; or a unique native grape like Prieto Picudo or Treixadura." Though that is probably an easy theme for many, I actually had some difficulty with it.

As I have long been a fan of Spanish wines, and love trying new and different wines, it has become more and more difficult for me at local wine stores to find something I have not tasted before. Though there are likely indigenous grapes from Spain I have not tried before, they are not readily available at local wine stores. So what was I to do? What wine could I choose for WBW that might conform to the guidelines?

Fortunately, my good friend Adam, a wine lover and author of the Wine Zag blog, unintentionally came to my rescue. We both played poker over the weekend and Adam brought a Spanish wine, the 2007 Bodegas Avanthia Mencia from the Valdeorras D.O. I have tasted Mencia from other Spanish D.O.s (such as Bierzo), and drank Godello from Valdeorras, but have never tasted Mencia from Valdeorras. So, this was something new to me.

In the northwestern region of Galicia, you will find the D.O. of Valdeorras, established in 1977 and located on the banks of the Sil River.  The term "Valdeorras" translates as “Valley of Gold” and might have been the first wine producing region in Galicia.  Its history extends back to the time of the ancient Romans, who mined for gold in the nearby Las Médulas Hills, located in the Léon province.  The Romans planted grapes in the Valdeorras valley, to produce wine for their settlements in this region.

Godello is currently the primary grape in Valdeorras, though Mencia is starting to see a surge. I have enjoyed several Godellos from this region, but until now, I had not tasted one of their Mencias.  Mencia wines used to be rather light, simple and easy drinking wines but much more complex and exciting wines are now being made from the grape. It was once thought to be a clone of Cabernet Franc, but that was disproven by DNA testing, and it was found to be identical to the Jaen du Dão grape of Portugal.  I think Mencia wines often are delicious on their own, but also great for food pairings.

Bodegas Avanthia is a joint project, founded in 2006, between the Gil family of Jumilla, Bodegas Godeval and Jorge Ordoñez. The winery is located in the mountains next to El Barco de Valdeorras, the vineyards planted on the mountainsides and primarily with Godello and Mencia. Their two Mencia vineyards are located at about 1800 feet above sea level, and the soil is mainly decomposed black slate and quartz. Each vineyard has old vines, one 70 and the other 85 years old. 

The 2007 Bodegas Avanthia Mencia ($60-$70) is produced from 100% Mencia, which was hand harvested and comes from both of the Mencia vineyards.  It underwent aging in new French oak for about fourteen months and was not filtered. It has an alcohol content of 13.5% and only 100 cases of this wine were produced. So because of this tiny productiuon, this might be a tough wine for you to find, but I highly recommend that you pick up a bottle if you can find it (and are willing to pay the high price).

The aroma of this wine immediately captivated me, a seductive nose of raspberry, blueberry, underlying spice and floral notes. The taste was lush and silky smooth, an appealing melange of rich fruit flavors, hints of minerality, spice notes and a lengthy and satisying finish. With plenty of complexity, a good structure and nice balance, this wine was ready for drinking now, but showed the potential to age well too.  It was a hedonistic wine in some ways, but without being over the top or a fruit bomb.  It was more quietly seductive, an alluring partner whose lips beckon to be tasted.  I was very impressed with the wine and believe it is worth its price tag.

I think the Avanthia is a lucky wine too, as I also won at poker.  So change your own karma and drink some Avanthia.

Thanks to Lenn for bringing back Wine Blog Wednesday, and thanks to Ryan & Gabriella for this new theme.  I'll be looking forward to WBW#71 next month as well.

PETA launched a campaign of intimidation, directed at wine bloggers, calling for a boycott of WBW #69. Or at least that is one theory for the dismally low participation this month. I am very disappointed that only 5 people submitted posts. What happened to everyone else?

Is it time for Wine Blogging Wednesday to sign off? Has it been replaced by matters like Twitter Taste Live events? Or was it merely that I chose an unappealing theme? Inquiring minds want to know.

But on to this month's theme itself, Animal Cruelty, where partipating bloggers had to drink a wine made primarily from Mourvedre, which is also known by other names such as Monastrell and Mataro. And in southern France, it is sometimes known as Estrangle-Chien, the "dog strangler,” and hence the title of this month's theme.

Jim at VINEgeek has been passionate about this grape all year with his Mourvedre Monday series. Each week he has been reviewing a different Mourvèdre-based wine, and did it this week on Wednesday rather than Monday so he could participate in WBW#69. Jim reviewed the 2007 Anglim Winery Mourvedre, Hastings Ranch Vineyard, a wine I tasted in Paso Robles and recently reviewed. Jim really seemed to enjoy this wine, as I had, and I especially enjoyed his "Free Association" photo that accompanied his review. Check out Jim's review, and also his Mourvedre Monday series for many more reviews of wines made from this interesting grape. Plus, all of his reviews seem to have intriguing Free Association pictures.

Michael of Undertaking Wine was a virgin to Mourvedre, but excited to finally try it. He generally drinks only Long Island wines but WBW gave him an excuse to venture off the island. He was ambitious and actually reviewed two wines! The first was the 2007 Wrongo Dongo and the second was the 2007 Juan Gil, both from Jumilla, Spain. Michael loved both wines, though preferring the Juan Gil. You have to check out his review though for Neville's reaction (his dog) to the two wines.

VA Wine Diva & Grape Envy Guy of Swirl, Sip, Snark primarily drink local Virginia wines (a region of which I have very little experience). So it is not a surprise that they chose a local wine for WBW, the 2007 Veramar Vineyard Mourvedre. They don't have much familiarity with the grape, but they enjoyed the wine, loving its complexity. Their description of the wine intrigued me and it sounds like a wine that I might enjoy.

Gwendolyn of Wine Predator was excited about WBW#69 as Mourvedre is possibly her favorite varietal. She chose the 2005 Hard Core, a blend with 60% Mourvedre, and also gives some info on the 2006 Hard Core (which is not predominantly Mourvedre. Gwendolyn loved the 2005 and her description certainly sounds very appealing. I have previously tasted the 2004 Hard Core, also not predominantly Mourvedre, and enjoyed it very much though I think I would prefer the 2005, with its more Mourvedre.

Lastly, I reviewed the 2009 Yellow+Blue Rosé, an organic Spanish wine made from 65% Monastrell and 35% Syrah. It was delicious and refreshing, as well as environmentall friendly because it comes packaged in a one-liter Tetra Pak.

All in all, the participants very much enjoyed the wines they reviewed and I think they will all continue seeking Mourvedre wines. If you have not tasted this grape before, I strongly recommend you seek it out.

Thanks very much to all of the participants!

Today is WBW #69, Animal Cruelty. But do not worry, as no real animals were harmed in any way for this WBW. I simply chose the theme to be wines made primarily from the Mourvedre grape, sometimes also known as Estrangle-Chien, the “dog strangler.”

For my choice of a wine for this theme, I was fortunate to recently receive a sample of one that I had been very interested in tasting. This was the 2009 Yellow+Blue Rosé ($12-$13).

The 69th edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday is not puppy friendly. We will be drinking wines made with the "dog-strangler" grape.

You might better know this grape as Mourvedre, Monastrell or Mataro. In southern France, this grape is sometimes known as Estrangle-Chien (which translates as “dog strangler”), because of its big tannins. It also has about thirty other different names by which it is sometimes known.

It appears that this grape originated in Spain, and derived its name from the town of Murviedro, located near Valencia. The name Mataro also derives from a Spanish town, of the same name, located near Barcelona. In the late Middles Ages, the grape was transported to the Provence region of France. In the 1800s, the grape spread to Australia and the United States, and you will also find small plantings in other countries too.

Today is a new Wine Blogging Wednesday, #64 and the theme is The Other Holidays. Jeff Stai, owner of Twisted Oak Winery, blogger at El Bloggo Torcido and rubber chicken lover is this month's host and he chosen a holiday theme, though with his trademark twist.

Jeff stated: "Pick any winter holiday or observance EXCEPT Hanukkah, Christmas Day, Kwanzaa, or New Years Day or Eve, and choose a wine to celebrate it! For purposes of this WBW, the holiday date chosen must be between December 7, 2009 and January 7, 2010." It might take a little research to find one of these other holidays or observances, but I think it was a fun theme, with plenty of options.

As I was pondering which holiday to choose, I was also reviewing all of my blog posts for the past year. I have been working on compiling my 2009 Favorite Lists. One of my posts from last January caught my eye, about an intriguing observance that is very appropriate for this WBW theme.

January 5 is National Whipped Cream Day! Though I was unable to confirm the exact origin of this observance, it seems likely related to Aaron Lapin, the creator of whipped cream in a can. January 5 is Lapin's birthday. He was originally a clothes salesman but got into the food industry in the 1940s. He started selling Sta-Whip, a wartime substitute for whipping cream, and eventually put whipped cream into a new type of aerosol canister and called his product, Reddi-wip. Reddi-wip was first sold through local milkmen but it went national in 1954 and is still available today.

Who doesn't love whipped cream? Though home-made whipped cream is the best, canned whipped cream is very convenient. With the holiday season, whipped cream is ubiquitous, on hot chocolate, pies, waffles and much more. Which wine should you pair with whipped cream? It depends on the food that accompanies the whipped cream though dessert wine is probably a good, general recommendation. So that is what I chose.

The 2007 Alois Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee (about $35/375ml) is an Austrian dessert wine. Beerenauslese is an official term for a late harvest dessert wine, usually produced from botrytized grapes. This Cuvee is a blend of 70 % Welschriesling and 30 % Chardonnay. Welschriesling is a white grape and its name literally means "Romanic Riesling" though it is unrelated to the common Riesling. It grows throughout Central Europe, often known by other names including Riesling Italico, Laski Rizling and Grasevina. It is a versatile grape and can make fine still wines or rich dessert wines. This wine was 80% fermented and aged in stainless steel, the other 20% spent in big casks for about 16 months. It also has an alcohol content of 12%.

I dip my spoon into a bowl of diced fruit, a melange of apricots, pineapple, peaches, and lemons. There is a light glaze of honey atop the fruit, enough to add some sweetness without being cloying like the juice you find in canned fruit cocktails. There seems to be a crispness to the fruit, a nice balance to the sweetness of the dish. I take my time eating, as after each spoonful, the flavors linger in my mouth and I just sit and savor them. What a wonderful fruit cocktail, and a very pleasant finish to my evening.

That sums up my feelings for the 2007 Alois Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee.

I am very pleased that Beau Timken, a Saké authority and the owner of True Sake, the first all-Saké store in the U.S., has chosen to participate in Wine Blogging Wednesday #59! True Sake is located in San Francisco and I was fortunate enough to visit it a few years ago when I was out there on vacation. It is an excellent store and well worth checking out. Pus, they do ship for those unable to visit the tore.

Beau holds two professional Saké-tasting licenses as well as a master Saké sommelier license. He also authored the book Saké: A Modern Guide, which I previous gave a very positive review.

Beau has chosen to review Kikuhime Dai Ginjo and here is that review:

Sake Spotlight – BT Does “BY” (Kikuhime That Is!)

"I won’t lie – it’s $125 per bottle! Stop reading right here if you cannot afford a bottle. Stop reading right here if you can afford a bottle but would never purchase one on principal. Stop right here if you think that Yaegaki Mu is the best Dai Ginjo ever made. (It’s a good brew – don’t get me wrong!) Go no further if you don’t really want to “know” sake.

Recently I sent my buddy and an email that said that I wanted to be embalmed in Kikuhime Dai Ginjo when the great one punches my ticket. He replied, “By the time you die I will have drunk it all. That sake is one of the best I have had. I agree.” And this is coming from a fellow person who is not in the business of saying “favorites.” We just never answer the question – “what is your favorite sake?” But in the dark corners of after hours emails we at times let our guards slip and say crazy things like “best” or “most favorite” or “da-shit!” (We never say, “da-bomb” for obvious sake-bomb reasons)

I remember my first! Love? Hell no! I remember my first taste of Kikuhime’s Dai Ginjo. The bottle was a present from my pal Ryuta Sakamoto – of Kappo Sakamoto in Kyoto and Medicine Restaurant in SF fame. (A brew that they keep permanently on their menu in Kyoto.) He thought that I might enjoy it. He thought wrong. I loved it. So much so that I went to my importer of this kura, who I used to sell their Yamahai Junmai (too big for the average sake drinker), and said I need this Dai Ginjo. So three years ago said importer brought Kikuhime Dai Ginjo to our shores to be sold exclusively at True Sake. No other place outside of Japan carries this brew, nor should they! It’s home is in the home of sake.

The name of this AAA Yamadanishiki made rice is BY, which of course stands for “Brewing Year.” What’s the difference between a “brewing year” and a calendar year? Think in terms of rice! Rice from one season is used in the next. Fall ’06 rice used for January ’07 sake for example. This brew, however, is laid down for a year and a quarter and then bottled and released roughly 1 ½ years after turning rice into liquid! Add the fact that this baby is carrying roughly 18% alcohol – Genshu, and you get a brew that has stability in the bottle.

Kikuhime is an extremely well known brewery in Ishikawa Prefecture. (Amongst sake drinkers it represents one of “those” breweries where soul and passion reigns supreme – and has done so since 1570.) I won’t touch on the amazing packaging of this brew – hey for a buck twenty-five it
better be classy as all get out! I will however speak to the style that this brew chooses to define its contents – confident and different!

Herewith are my notes of said first tasting experience in the summer of ‘05:

Bottle Nose: Koji rice and cherries. Nose: Sweet rice, melon, mild fruit, and noughet. “A plump and ripe Dai Ginjo with ‘perfect’ amounts of balance and character.” “Thick and ripe, slightly fruity sake with grains and a subtle savoriness.” “Structure is so sound – thick legs on glass could have told you that – this produces and very slow dissolve in palate.” “So plump and rewarding – the acidity swims in the thickness – and the finish is tremendous (say hello to a peek-a-boo mild tail).” “There is a hint of sweetness that rides the chewy flavor push – super soft and silky with
slick and chewy flavor elements.”
WORD: Perfect
WINE: Fat Pinot Noir/Chewy Whites
BEER: $8 Ales (I cannot remember writing that but love it!)

Now since that fateful first tasting I have secretly squirreled this brew to special occasions across this great land – hell I even took it to New Orleans to pair with Cajun food! And on my personal “sweetness/dryness” scale – a system that I invented by necessity before I knew about the Sake Meter Value or Nihonshu-do – I gave it a 4, which lo and behold is the same number I gave the brew tonight when re-reviewing it for the Sake Spotlight! Basically this sake is so solid – so balanced – so even that it would take a natural disaster to throw this beast off kilter.

Here is my most current review of a brew that is dated 17BY, which means brewing year 2005! (Aged for a year and a half and bottled/released in December 2006) and please note that we only have 4 more cases of this beauty in a bottle:

Bottle Nose: Deep Cherry (same as first smell over 3 years ago – yes a different BY all together) – consistency nevertheless! Nose: Per usual I use three different sized vessels when tasting a brew for review – Melon, hint of vanilla, steamed rice, and salt water. “Round and soft – deep and layered – with a gentle reminder of aging.” “Superb balance with a gentle richness.” “Round and pampered extolling a quick finish with a lingering tail – deeper and deepest a sense of floating richness pervades.” “Soft and supple with just an amazing feel – a mouth gripping experience – solid and so even.” “Drinks better in an Izakaya-style (sake pup glass that looks like a cut-off Italian table wine glass) and does not get rewarded in a larger vessel.” “Look for white rasin, cucumber, steamed rice, cooked pineapple, and honey roasted nut elements.” “A taste of sweetness presents itself when you airate the brew between your teeth.” “Drinks far more elegantly chilled, far more expressive at room temperature, and far more soulful when warmed ever so slightly.”
WORD: Balanced
WINE: French Pinot Noir/White Burgundy
BEER: Controlled Belgians
FOODS: Yup! Even Cajun! Will take on all-comers!

Why did I bring this brew out into the Sake Spotlight? Are you thinking that I want to sell a lot of $125 bottles of sake? You really don’t know us at True Sake if you think this! No – the reason is really quite innocent and pure. I present this brew because it is a foothold in the understanding of climbing the sake sheer-faced mountain. It is a solid grip – a firm placement – a step for which you need to get to a higher level of understanding sake. Or not!

Herewith is an entirely different review written for the my store’s “copy” (see if you can spot any similarities):

• Kikuhime “Chrysanthemum Princess”5
From Ishikawa Prefecture. Dai Ginjo Genshu (Aged Over One Year).
SMV:+5
Acidity: 1.3
Some sakes are built well and some are built like this amazing Dai Ginjo. With a gentle collection of cherry, sweet rice, melon, lavender, and powdered sugar aromas, this brew is a mouth-ride at its finest. Thick and chewy with a super soft texture, behold the definitive “fat” sake. There are hints of grains and steamed rice on one floor and far more savory flavors on another, and hidden amongst it all are deep rich fruit veins that one must seek or miss altogether. Plump and
rewarding this Dai Ginjo has a structure like no other, enjoy the acidity and revel in the complexity.
WORD: Complex
WINE: Deep reds/Fat whites
BEER: Belgian Ales
FOODS: Made for grilled fare and complex cuisine.

Beau Timken

I am extremely pleased that John Gauntner, a famed Saké authority and educator, has chosen to participate in Wine Blogging Wednesday #59! John lives in Japan, working and interacting in the Saké industry. The Japanese media refers to him as the "Saké Dendoushi" ("Saké Evangelist"), for his intense devotion to the promotion of Saké.

He has several books about Saké, including his latest: Saké's Hidden Stories: The Personalities, Philosophies, and Tricks-of-the-Trade Behind the Brew. I recently reviewed that book and really loved it.

John has chosen to review a new Saké from Hakkaisan, and here is his review.

"Hakkaisan from Niigata recently released a tokubetsu junmai-shu, a relatively young sake just brewed this spring, released in June, so laid down a scant two months. It was (note past tense!) a genshu, but the alcohol was a lowish-for-genshu 18%.

I was told it was the first time Hakkaisan made such a sake, as they do not make junmai-shu (excluding of course the ginjo range). They also only made a small amount and presold it, so that it all disappeared instantly. I was part of that pre-order frenzy and scored a small bottle.

How'd it taste? Rich, young, tight, clean and balanced. It was, on one hand, very much a Hakkaisan product, in that it had nothing even resembling off flavors or roughness. Very clean and bright. But it also had much more fullness than most of their products, and was lower in acidity than most junmai-shu.

Also, two more things made it signficant. One, the slightly higher alcohol boosted both impact and a little sweetness. Two, the choice of yeasts. I had to look this up on the internet and the research confirmed my "suspicion" that they used yeast #1801, giving it this lovely berry-like aroma yet plenty of balance. (The actually blended #1001 and 1801, for those that really care...).
More relevant to drinkers, it was fruity in the mid-palate in both flavor and aromas but not ostentatious or overly aromatic. Mostly berry-like stuff: cranberry, raspberry, a bit of apple too I guess.

...and it finished tightly, cleanly and definitely. Lovely overall, if
young."

John Gauntner

Kanpai!

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday #59, an Homage to Kushi no Kami, the god of Saké. For this month's theme, people were to conduct their own kikishu (“Saké tasting”) by selecting any Saké and reviewing it. They could earn bonus points if they reviewed multiple Sakés of different styles or types, as well as if they paired Saké with food. My hope was that people would explore this unique beverage, and maybe gain a better appreciation for it.

For my own kikishu, I have tasted two different Sakés, both which I had bought from Sakaya, the all-Saké store in New York City. I decided on Saké breweries with history, older producers. I also chose two different types, a Junmai and a Junmai Ginjo. Plus, one was a Yamahai.

First up is the Sato No Homare "Pride of the Village" Junmai Ginjo ($57.99/720ml) which was brewed by the Sudo Honke brewery in the town of Obara in the Ibaraki prefecture. This is the oldest, still operating Saké brewery in the world, having been founded back in 1146 A.D. It is over 860 years old! Are there any wineries which are that old?

The brewery is currently operated by the 55th generation of continuous family ownership. What a sense of history then when you open a bottle of their Saké. Compared to most producers, the brewery only makes a small amount of Saké each year. Plus, they only produce quality Saké, only Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjo.

This particular Saké was made from Yamada Nishiki rice, which was polished to 50%. Thus it could qualify as a Daiginjo but the brewery chose to release it only as a Ginjo. This Saké has an alcohol content of 15.1% and a Saké Meter Value of +3, making it a slightly dry Saké. Smelling this Saké, you might be surprised to get aromas of violets, pear and subtle red fruits. Then when you taste it, you'll find it silky, clean and light. The flavors echo some of the smells, though the fruit flavors are more prominent than the floral notes. As you concentrate, you will realize the complexity of the taste and with its lengthy finish, you will have plenty of time to ponder over the flavors. This is an elegant Saké yet with some body. An exceptional example of the great potential of Saké. This should appeal to anyone.

I drank this with a roasted chicken dish and think it paired up well. The Saké was not overpowered and it was hearty enough to stand up to the food too. It seemed to refresh my palate, while its flavors helped to complement the savory spices on the chicken. I would not have paired this Saké though with a spicy hot dish.

Next up was the Kuro Obi "Black Belt" Do-D0 Junmai Yamahai ($41.99/720 ml) which was brewed by the Fukumitsuya Saké brewery in the Chubu region of the Ishikawa Prefecture. The brewery was founded in 1625 A.D., so it has over 380 years old of history. They make only Junmais though they make a variety of different brands.

This particular Saké was made from Yamada Nishiki and Kinmon Nishiki rice, which was polished to 65%. This Saké has an alcohol content of 15% and a Saké Meter Value of +5, making it a dry Saké. What makes this Saké more unique is that is it a Yamahai. That means that the brewer uses native yeasts, those just floating in the air of the brewery. It is very risky though so very few brewers make this style any more. Yet when they succeed, a Yamahai can be rich and acidic, much more like a red wine.

This Saké had a pale, yellow color to it and an earthy nose, maybe some mushroom and almost a slight milky smell. It was a rich, full-bodied drink with pronounced earthiness and a certain creaminess to it. It was a more unusual taste, certainly very different from the fruity Sato No Homare. It seemed more rustic, which could very well be due to the use of native yeasts. I enjoyed this for its more unusual taste though it probably would not appeal to a newcomer to Saké.

Thanks to everyone who participated in WBW#59 and I will endeavor to get the summary posted as soon as I can. Thanks as well to Lenn of Lenndevours: The NY Cork Report for allowing me to choose this theme as well as for starting the whole idea of Wine Blogging Wednesday. I hope everyone enjoyed the theme, maybe learned a thing or two, and hopefully there were a few converts to Saké.

This month for Wine Blogging Wednesday we will pay homage to Kushi no Kami. And who is Kushi no Kami? It is an ancient name for the god of Saké and for WBW #59 we pay homage to this unique beverage. Saké was once referred to as “kushi” which translates as "something mysterious or strange." To many people, Saké still is mysterious and strange but I hope to unveil some of that mystery and reveal its wonders.

Saké, also known as “rice wine” or “nihonshu,” is a beverage that I believe in taste, style and food compatibility most resembles wine. It is an incredibly diverse beverage with a wide range of styles and flavor profiles. You can find everything from Sparkling Saké to Koshu, aged Saké. Almost everyone should be able to find some type of Saké that will appeal to them.

The traditional Saké toast is "Kanpai", a rough equivalent to "cheers" though with a deeper meaning. This Japanese term literally translates as "empty or dry cup" though it really means "Let us drain our cups in friendship." Saké is very much a social drink.

The theme for Wine Blogging Wednesday #57 has now been announced. Jeff of Good Grape is this month's host and he has chosen a meaningful theme, California Inspiration. This theme is partially an homage to the legendary Robert Mondavi, who passed away almost a year ago.

Your task is to revisit a California wine that is meaningful to you in some way and then tell a story about that wine. The story should have a beginning, middle and end though any type of story is permitted. I am sure this should be easy for most wine lovers, as we all have such stories within us. Certain wines remain locked in our memories for various reasons. So now is the time to release those memories and share the story within everyone.

As a bonus, the best story, as judged by Jeff and Lenn, wins a 1-year subscription to Sunset magazine, a lifestyle magazine for California and the West Coast.

On or before Wednesday, May 13, post your tasting review on your blog and then email the link to Jeff. If you lack a blog, just add your review as a comment to the original post.

The theme for Wine Blogging Wednesday #56 has now been announced. The Corkdork is this month's host and he has chosen an appropriate seasonal theme, Fine Kosher Wine. Your task is simply to taste a "fine" Kosher wine.

But this means not just any Kosher wine, not some of the generic alcoholic-grape juice that is out there, but only the best. Such wines may not be easy for everyone to locate, though there are some available online resources, such as Israeli Wine Direct. You can check out The Corkdork's post for more information about Kosher wines.

On or before Wednesday, April 15th, post your tasting review on your blog and then email the link to your post to thecorkdork@gmail.com. If you lack a blog, just add your review as a comment to the original post.

In the battle of North vs South, which side prevailed?

Rémy of The Wine Case, host of Wine Blogging Wednesday #55, has now posted a comprehensive roundup of the event that is well worth checking out. Thirty-three people participated, including three for the first time. Rémy provides some interesting stats on the event, breaking down the types of wines, grapes and locales that were reviewed. He even draws the conclusion, based on all the reviews, that climate rather than strict geography matters most for wines. I would fully agree with his sentiment.

It was fascinating to read many of the WBW entries and Rémy provides a nice recap of each entry. I encourage you to read his recap, and then check out the full entries at the various blogs.

It also appears that WBW #56 will deal with Kosher wines!

Geography is important for wine as each region is unique and can impart its own special qualities to wine produced in that area. This is kind of what terroir entails. The theme for Wine Blogging Wednesday #55 has led to an exploration of this concept. The theme of North vs South gave the participants lots of leeway in how to reflect that concept and I took advantage of that leeway.

I chose to compare Saké from two different regions of Japan, one in the north and one more to the south. I made sure the styles were the same, both being Daiginjos, and in addition, they both used the same type of rice, Yamadanishiki. Part of my reason for selecting Saké this was to show its wide diversity as well as show how terroir can apply to Saké too.

There are 47 Prefectures in Japan, which are very roughly like states. All but one of them produces Saké, the other producing Shochu, a distilled liquor. Japan has a variety of climates, soils, and elevations, all dependent where on the island you are located. So it is only logical that these differing conditions may produce different styles of Saké. I put this to the test.

This test compared the Akitabare Suirakuten Daiginjo from the Akita Prefecture with the Kamoshibito Kuheiji Daiginjo from the Aichi Prefecture. Let me begin though by explaining some terms and similarities of these two Sakés.

First, they are both Junmai, "pure Saké," which means they are made with only rice, water, koji and yeast. Nothing else has been added. Second, both use Yamadanishiki rice, considered by many to be the best of all Saké rice strains. Third, they are both Daiginjos, the highest quality level of Saké that exists. At least 50% of the rice grain must have been polished away to qualify for this designation. Now let us compare the prefectures.

The Akita Prefecture is located in northern Honshu, the main island of Japan, and it faces the Sea of Japan in the west. It shares the same latitude as New York. With Akita's many steep and high mountains, the climate usually consists of long winters and short summers. It also has an abundance of pure, crystal clear water that descends from the mountains. Akita is famous for its Saké breweries and its slogan is "Bishu Okoku" or "empire of beautiful Saké." Saké from Akita is said to commonly be "rich and well rounded, yet soft, with a layered, detailed construction."

The Aichi Prefecture is located south of Akita, almost in the center of Honshu and is bordered to the south by the Pacific Ocean. It enjoys a rather a mild climate, and much of the land is taken over by urban sprawl. Saké from Aichi commonly has a more mellow character.

Climate matters with Saké. In general, the Saké brewing season is about from the end of October to the beginning of April. This is because colder weather assists the fermentation process, which needs to occur at lower temperatures. Thus, the colder regions of Japan have a better ability to produce Saké, thus giving an edge to the Akita Prefecture. Brewers in the Aichi Prefecture may have to work a bit harder due to their milder climate. So let us now examine each specific Saké.

The Akitabare Suirakuten Daiginjo ($64.99-720ml) is roughly translated as “Heaven of Tipsy Delight.” Saké names can be so evocative and who cannot love a name like this one? The rice has been polished to 38%, it has an alcohol content of 15-16% and a Saké Meter Value of +4, meaning it tends to be a little bit drier. This Saké was aged for two years after brewing, which is not common.

I found this to have a very mild aroma, maybe a touch of steamed rice and melon. This was a more full-bodied Saké than I expected as many Daiginjos are light and delicate. It was rich with intriguing flavors of melon and marshmallow. It was soft and easy-drinking, something you could easily drink glass after glass. The more you concentrated on the Saké though, you found additional nuances and flavors. Yet they were fleeting and difficult to identify, though quite pleasing. A delicious and interesting Saké which should please many.


The Kamoshibito Kuheiji Daiginjo ($56.99-720 ml) has a bit of a more boring name, which roughly translates as "Kuheiji the sake brewer." It has had its rice polished to 40%, has an alcohol content of 16-17% and a Saké Meter Value of +2, meaning it tends to be more neutral than either dry or sweet. The brewery has a long history, having been founded in 1647. It remains a very traditional brewery.

The nose of Saké was also mild, with maybe a bit of melon. It had a lighter body and was not as rich as the other Daiginjo. It was a mellow drink, with flavors of melon and peach, and a slight hint of bitterness on the finish. Like the other Saké, the more you concentrated, the more you found in your mouth. A complex drink but I did not enjoy it as much as the Akitabare. That is due solely to personal preference and due to any defect in this one. I certainly enjoyed both of them, and think they both reflect their region well, but I simply preferred the Akitabare.

Thanks to Rémy of The Wine Case who chose this intriguing theme.

In addition, if you are interested in purchasing either of these Saké, I suggest you contact Sakaya, the all-Saké store in New York City, where I purchased both of these bottles.

The theme for Wine Blogging Wednesday #55 has now been announced and it may lead to more drinking than the usual WBW event. Rémy of The Wine Case is this month's host and he has chosen an intriguing theme, one which may be quite informative in the end. The title of the theme is: North vs South.

Your task is to compare two different wines, one from the "north" and one from the "south, to see how they differ." There are multiple ways in which you can do this, such as: "Northern hemisphere vs Southern hemisphere. North vs South within a country: how the Barossa compares with Tasmania. Or even within a single region: how pinots from the northern end of Burgundy compare with those at the southern end."

The only restriction is that you must compare similar types of wine. For example, two wines that use the same grape, such as Pinot Noir or two similar blends. That only makes sense so that you get a true idea of how the different locations affect a wine. This should be a fun theme and will take a bit of thought to decide on which wines I will compare.

On or before, Wednesday, March 18, post your tasting review on your blog. Then just add a comment on the North vs South post with a link to your review. If you don't have blog, just add your review as a comment.

As for WBW #54, David of McDuff's Food & Wine Trail has now posted an extensive recap of A Passion for Piedmont. There were over 50 participants in this event and David has done an excellent job in describing all of the entries. It is well worth checking out to see all of the fascinating Piemontese wines out there.

Some excellent wines come from the Piedmont region of Italy and I have previously reviewed numerous wines from this area. Most recently, I met the wine makers from the Cascina Roera winery in Piedmont. On my list of Top Ten Wines Under $15 of 2008, the 2004 Le Piane La Maggiorina from Piedmont made the list. And on my Top Ten Wines Over $15 of 2008, you can find the 2007 G.D. Vajra Moscato D'Asti from Piedmont.


Arneis, also known as Bianchetta or Nebbiolo Bianco, is indigenous to the Roera region of Piedmont and records of the grape extend back to the 15th century. The word "Arneis" translate as "a difficult or demanding person" in Piemontese, probably referring to the fact that it can be a difficult grape to grow. Traditionally, Arneis was sometimes blended with Nebbiolo to add perfume and soften its tannins.

Arneis was largely ignored for many years, and even might have vanished except it saw a revival in popularity in the early 1970s. Part of the reason for the revival was that there was an increasing popularity in white wines in the 1980s. Production of Arneis in Roero has been steadily increasing. Arneis is also now grown in Sardinia, Oregon, California, and Australia.

Arneis has medium-small berries which are golden-green in color and elliptical in shape. It can be similar to Viognier in weight and Pinot Blanc in flavors and aromas. The flavor and aroma of Arneis may have pears, peaches, almond, vanilla and floral notes. It may sometimes have low acidity so is usually best within a year of its vintage.

The Arcass is a late harvest wine done in the passito-style where the grapes are dried for several months before pressing. The wine comes in half-bottles, 375ml bottle, and costs in the mid to high $40s. It has an alcohol content of 12.5%. The name of the wine, "Arcass," is "a reference to one of the most elegant and powerful athletic gestures displayed in the game of "Balon", the most traditional sport of the Roero hills. The "Arcass" expresses the untamed farming pride, which is able to overcome any kind of difficulty."

I found the Arcass to have a fine amber color with a compelling nose of apricots, citrus, honey and dried fruit. It is a full bodied wine with intense and complex flavors, being sweet without being cloying. It was a wow wine, very unique in its flavor profile and with a lengthy, satisfying finish. If this is the type of desert wine that Arneis can produce, then more producers should be making it. This dessert wine would pair with many different types of desserts, especially if there is fruit involved. I highly recommend this wine.