The Passionate Foodie

The beginning of a poem about Clam Chowder.
--New-England Galaxy & Masonic Magazine, September 1, 1820

Ladies and gentlemen, I present for you a Battle Royale: New England Clam Chowder vs Manhattan Clam Chowder. In the end, who shall prevail?

People often have strong opinions on which chowder version they prefer, generally dependent upon where they live, although there are exceptions. For example, though born in Oregon, famed cook James Beard moved to New York City when he was around 24 years old. You might think he embraced Manhattan clam chowder but in his book American Cookery (1972), he wrote briefly about “. . . that rather horrendous soup called Manhattan clam chowder,” and noted that it "...resembles a vegetable soup that accidentally had some clams dumped into it.”

What's your opinion?

Although tomato-based clam chowders have existed in New York since at least the second half of the 19th century, most sources claim that the first use of the term "Manhattan" Clam Chowder was in 1934. in the Soups and Sauces cookbook by Virginia Elliott and Robert Jones. In Savoring Gotham: A Food Lover's Companion to New York City (2015), edited by Andrew F. Smith, it stated, “The first located recipe titled "Manhattan Clam Chowder" was published by Virginia Elliott and Robert Jones in Soups and Sauces (1934). This recipe substituted tomatoes for milk. The name "Manhattan Clam Chowder" caught on, but it had no real association with New York City.”

Other sources would quote or use this information in their own articles. Many sources also stated that tomato-based chowders were previously known in New York by other names, including Fulton Market Clam Chowder, Coney Island Clam Chowder, and New York Clam Chowder. These sources also commonly allege that "Manhattan" Clam Chowder received its name by New Englanders who were derisive of tomato-based chowders.

In the Daily Oklahoman (OK), February 1, 2012, there was a chowder article which discussed some of the findings in The Book of Chowder (1978) by Richard Hooker. Hooker alleged that tomato-based clam chowder was "an abomination to the simple country folk of New England who derisively referred to the nouvelle chowder as 'Manhattan-style' since nothing of quality came from New York." He also claimed "By the beginning of the Great Depression, the name had stuck,.."

However, is that the true origin of Manhattan Clam Chowder? It didn't take much research to cast significant doubt upon the most commonly accepted origin tale. For example, I found a reference to Manhattan Clam Chowder predating the 1934 cookbook reference by almost 50 years. And the deeper I delved, the more fascinating I found the entire matter. There was so much more involved to the history of Manhattan clam chowder, and I became convinced of the validity of a different theory as to the true origin of its name.

Chowder was very popular in New York during the early 19th century, and as you could also find in New England, there were "chowder parties" held in various parts of New York, including Brooklyn and Long Island. These parties likely included both fish and clam chowders. The first reference I found to a chowder party in New York was in the Long-Island Star, June 26, 1834. Some chowder lovers even organized, such as the Brooklyn Chowder Association. The Brooklyn Evening Star, July 19, 1842, noted that the motto of this organization was “For the promotion of Health, Sociability and Enjoyment.” They held semi-monthly excursions, on the first and third Tuesdays, weather permitting.

Coney Island, located on a New York peninsula, had become a popular seaside resort by the mid-19th century. Seafood, including chowder, was ubiquitous at Coney Island restaurants though the first direct reference to "clam chowder" on Coney Island was in the New York Daily Herald, July 19, 1845. Prior to that time, the term "chowder' was used, but you couldn't differentiate whether it referred to fish or clam chowder, or both.

As a brief aside, in 1847, there was an "eating match" between two men in New York, a competition to see who could eat the most chowder. The Brooklyn Evening Star, August 11, 1847, noted that such eating matches, for public entertainment, were new. Two members of a chowder party, both known as “extraordinary feeders,” faced off against each other on Bergen's Island. The loser of the contest ate only 37 bowls of chowder, while the winner ate more, though the article didn't specify how much more.

The 1850s saw the formation of a number of "chowder clubs," which basically seemed to be groups who went on excursions to eat chowder together and drink. There were groups such as the Union Chowder Club, American Chowder Club, and the Ninth Ward Chowder Club. The 1850s would also see the first specific reference to “Coney Island clam chowder.” The New York Daily Herald, March 20, 1857, had a brief mention of “Coney Island clam chowder.” Unfortunately, there wasn't a description of this chowder, though it is suspected it might have included tomatoes.

Coney Island was acquiring a stellar reputation as a place for clams and chowder. The Times Union, August 4, 1862, noted that if “would you enjoy a glorious plunge in the saline-aqueous, with clam-chowder and eke the roasted bivalves afterwards? We commend to Coney Island.” The New York Times, August 20, 1863, had the first specific reference to a “clam-chowder party,” and not just a ore generic "chowder party." The Buffalo Sunday Morning News, May 6, 1877, mentioned that “Clam chowder parties are fashionable…” while their June 17, 1877 issue was the first to mention a specific “clam chowder club.”

There's mention of another specific chowder in New York. The Indianapolis News (IN), March 29, 1875, mentioned that "Fulton Market Clam Chowder" was available at a local market, without providing any description of its contents. Was it tomato-based or not? The Schenectady Evening Star (NY), October 16, 1875, mentioned that Coney Island Clam Chowder was available at the David House.

To the east of Coney Island, there was Manhattan Beach, which during the 1870s saw significant investment to turn it into a high-class tourist destination, catering to the wealthy. In July 1877, the luxurious Manhattan Beach Hotel opened and then in August 1880, the equally luxurious Oriental Hotel opened on the shore. Manhattan Beach became the most high-end resort area on the peninsula, and its creation likely plays a large role in the naming of Manhattan Clam Chowder, a topic I'll address later in this article.

An article published a year after the opening of the Manhattan Beach Hotel noted the higher food prices on Coney Island and the two other resort areas. The New York Daily Herald, July 22, 1878, reported that many people were concerns about the high food prices and hotel costs. The prices were often higher than what was found in New York City restaurants, though restaurant owners claimed that they also had higher costs as they had to bring in ingredients from a greater distance and they also had higher waste. Some comparison prices were given, for Manhattan Beach, Brighton Beach and an Uptown Restaurant. For example, stewed clams were 40 cents at Manhattan Beach, 30 cents at Brighton, and 20 cents Uptown. For fried clams, they were 40 cents at Manhattan Beach, 35 cents at Brighton, and 35 cents Uptown.

The Lancaster Times (NY), July 10, 1879, noted that at the Coney Island pier, you could have “genuine Coney Island chowder.” There would be plenty of other ads during the next couple years for this chowder.

A more detailed article was provided in The New York Times, July 14, 1879, which sang the praises of Coney Island chowder. "As the great national chowder-pot, Coney Island comes boldly to the front." But, not all of the chowders on Coney Island were the same. "And Coney Island chowder is a mystery that no man has ever yet fathomed." One man claimed to have eaten chowder at 11 different places, each one different. That person ate at Norton & Murray's, noting, "I think it was genuine chowder, for it had clams in it, and potatoes, and tomatoes." How, he didn't like that they added vinegar to the chowder. He also noted that, "At the Brighton and Manhattan beaches, where it comes on in silver pans, which cost more,.."

The article seems to indicate that Coney Island clam chowder must have tomatoes, though each restaurant still made their own version, with the addition of various different ingredients in addition to tomatoes. It's also interesting how the clam chowder was presented on Manhattan Beach, served in silver pans, presenting it as a high quality dish, elevated above the more common clam chowders on Coney Island. This is another important element in the role of the naming of Manhattan Clam Chowder.

The New York Tribune, July 21, 1879, was the first to provide a price for clam chowder, noting that Fulton Market Clam Chowder sold for 20 cents.

The first recipe I found for Coney Island Clam Chowder was in the New Family Cookbook (1885) by Juliet Corson. Corson was born in Boston though moved to New York, where she established the famed New York School of Cookery in 1886. Her cook contained a recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder, with directions including, “Peel and slice a pint of fresh or canned tomatoes.” We see here that Coney Island Clam Chowder was tomato-based. The recipe also contained a couple different spices, including grated nutmeg and curry powder.

Interestingly, the cookbook also contained a recipe for “Clam Chowder,” which was actually very similar to that for the Coney Island version, including the fact that it used tomatoes. This was definitely not a New England version of Clam Chowder. It didn't include the nutmeg or curry as in the Coney Island version, and used celery seed, which wasn't in the Coney Island recipe. Though Corson was originally from Boston, it's obvious her love was for New York style chowder.

In 1886, another cookbook provided a recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder. Cooking for Profit: A New American Cook Book Adapted for the Use of All who Serve Meals for a Price (Chicago, 1886), by Jessup Whitehead, was originally published in the San Francisco Daily Hotel Gazette. This indicates how far the fame of Coney Island Clam Chowder had already spread, all the way to California. The book contained a recipe for Clam Chowder: Coney Island Style, and stated, "The clam chowder so popular in the restaurants as a lunch as a lunch dish is more of a stew than soup, being thick with clams and potatoes." It also mentioned, "The Coney Island chowder contains tomatoes and herb seasonings." There was also a recipe for Clam Chowder: Boston Style, and it was noted, "This is what is called the old-fashioned sort, having no tomatoes in it."

One more cookbook. In A Few Hints about Cooking, with Remarks on Many Other Subjects (Boston, 1887), by Sarah Grier, there is a recipe for Clam Chowder, which we would call a New England style, which is made without tomatoes. However, and despite the fact Sarah lived in the Boston area, she preferred tomato-based chowder. As she wrote, "There is another recipe, which, in my opinion, is infinitely superior to the above; but it is an acquired taste, and I should not like to risk the serving of it to guests who were eating it for the first time. It is the Coney Island manner of making chowder." She noted that the main difference between the two chowder recipes, was that the Coney Island version added a half can of tomatoes, powdered thyme, Worcestershire sauce, and a sliced lemon.

Manhattan Clam Chowder appeared! The first reference I found for "Manhattan" Clam Chowder was in 1887, 47 years before what most sources claim was the first reference in a 1934 cookbook. The Buffalo Times (NY), June 25, 1887, published an ad which read, “The original boss Manhattan clam chowder at Geo. J. Bucheit’s, cor. of Ellicott and Carroll Streets, every Saturday night from 5 to 10." There's no indication "Manhattan" was used as a term of derision, and obviously use of the term occurred much earlier than the Depression. And this is but the first of many other references to "Manhattan" clam chowder which I found prior to 1934.

Back to Coney Island Clam Chowder. The Steward's Handbook and Guide to Party Catering by Jessup Whitehead (January 1, 1889) mentioned that Coney Island Clam Chowder was a “thick soup or thin stew containing tomatoes, clams, onions, potatoes, bay leaf, herbs, etc., started by frying the main ingredients together until half-cooked, then adding broth and little wine.” The book also noted another type of chowder, Tunnison Clam Chowder, which was a “seaside hotel-keeper’s specialty” that contained tomatoes and herbs, in addition to the regular ingredients.

I wasn't able to find much else about Tunnison Clam Chowder, except for a recipe first provided in the Courier-Journal (KY), April 9, 1901, which was reprinted in several other newspapers, in Indiana, D.C., New Jersey, and New York. The recipe included tomatoes, as well as a layer of milk soaked sea biscuits or Boston crackers.

During the later half of the 19th century, Delmonico's, located in New York City, was considered one of the best fine-dining restaurants in the country. Two former chefs at Delmonico wrote their own cookbooks, and both contained clam chowder recipes that included the use of tomatoes. Interestingly, both chefs referred to these recipes simply as "Clam Chowder," and didn't call it Coney Island or Manhattan chowder.

First, there was The Table: How to Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It (1889) by Alessandro Filippini. His recipe mentioned, “Lightly scald four medium-sized tomatoes, peel and cut them into small pieces and add them to the preparation.” Second, there was  The Epicurean: A Complete Treatise of Analytical & Practical Studies (1894) by Charles Ranhofer. His recipe called for “one quart of tomatoes peeled, pressed and cut in half inch squares.”

Despite claims that New Englanders were vehemently opposed to the use of tomatoes in clam chowder, The Boston Globe, January 29, 1895, published four recipes for Coney Island Clam Chowder. A reader sought such a recipe and several people came forward, offering their own version of that recipe. Above, is the first recipe that was submitted.

The second submitted recipe.

The third submitted recipe.

The fourth submitted recipe.

The Boston Globe, February 13, 1895, also presented another recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder. Obviously there were a number of people in the Boston area who were curious enough to make their own tomato-based chowders at home.

New York Clam Chowder! The Boston Daily Globe, June 2, 1896, briefly mentioned that New York Clam Chowder was available for Ladies' Lunch at Cook’s.

And as I start addressing chowder references from the early 20th century, I want to note that the term Coney Island Clam Chowder continued to be used throughout the entire 20th century, in a myriad of restaurant ads, all across the country, including as far west as California. It was essentially a synonym for Manhattan Clam Chowder, yet its usage didn't vanish as the use of "Manhattan" rose.

Another cookbook, Vachon's Book of Economical Soups and Entrees (1903), by Joseph Vachon, provided a recipe for Boston Clam Chowder, which didn't contain tomatoes. It also provided a recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder which called for a “thin layer of canned tomatoes” and recommended to flavor it "with a little tomato catsup and Worcestershire.”

The Fort Wayne Daily News (IN), June 19, 1903, noted that Manhattan Clam Chowder was available at O’Reilley’s Oyster Bay. We thus see that this type of chowder was now available outside of New York, in this instance in Indiana.

The Democrat and Chronicle (NY), April 6, 1904, provided more details about Manhattan Clam Chowder, and the information seemed to indicate it had existed for some time. The article noted, “There was a time when Manhattan clam chowder was a mixture of merit, occupying a position of honor in the culinary world. Nobody ever thought of letting a Friday go by without indulging in a dish of the delicious concoction, and as much oftener is the week as the appetite called for it.” There's no indication that anyone ever saw the term "Manhattan" as a term of derision from non-New Yorkers.

The article continued, noting that many current restaurants weren't providing the quality chowder as once was available. “Metropolitan clam chowder has, however, descended to the quick lunch menu, and is no longer the succulent dish that old New Yorkers used to go wild over. Clam chowder as served in the majority of restaurants today is suspiciously like vegetable soup, with just enough of the clam flavoring to give it a name. There are still a few places in town, however, where real clam chowder may be had.”

And how is that real Manhattan Clam Chowder prepared? “Here is the way they make it: They put into iron kettles layers of nice fat pork cut into small squares, let it simmer and brown for a while, then put in a layer of claims (little necks preferred) cut into pieces, but not as small as the pork squares. Then some layers of sliced onions, potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, and on top a layer of biscuit. All this is allowed to cook slowly until thoroughly done, and never under any circumstance is it stirred until ready to serve.” The addition of a layer of biscuit is interesting, and rarely seen in other recipes at this time.

More placings serving Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Evening World, February 2, 1905, had an ad for Rothenberg & Co., "New York’s Fastest Growing Store, " that noted their restaurant offered a 5-course “Table d’Hote Lunch” for 25 cents, which included Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Gazette (Montreal, Quebec), August 11, 1905, published an ad for La Corona Hotel Café, with a Friday special including Manhattan Clam Chowder. The chowder had spread to Canada! And in The Honolulu Advertiser, July 13, 1906, they printed an ad for The Grotto Restaurant, and its lunch menu included Manhattan Clam Chowder. The chowder had spread as far west in the U.S. as it could, to Hawaii.

Manhattan tomato-based chowder had spread wide and far, all by 1906.

Again, despite claims that New Englanders didn't like tomatoes in their clam chowder, the Boston Globe, March 4, 1908, provided a recipe for Fulton Market Clam Chowder.

The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), April 25, 1909, offered a recipe for Coney Island Clam Chowder.

From Manhattan to Utah. The Salt Lake Tribune, July 24, 1909, published an ad for the Saltair Restaurant, which had their menu including Manhattan Clam Chowder for 15 cents.

One of the oldest, and quite vehement, attacks against the use of tomatoes in clam chowder was presented in the Salt Lake City Deseret Evening News, August 13, 1909, reprinting a column from the Washington, D.C. Times. Interestingly, the source of the derision wasn't from someone from New England. And these attacks were very rare in the newspapers during this time period.

The article stated, “What passes for clam chowder in New York is not chowder. It is soup, and poor soup. It is soup without pride of race or strength. Usually it is watery, as if prepared originally as a swimming pool for living clams. Tomatoes you will always find therein. You cannot tell a New York clam chowder by the clams, but you can always identify it by the tomatoes. If you order clam chowder and get something that resembles a cross between tomato soup and chicken gumbo, say nothing that you will be sorry for. Eat what you get, or not, as your hunger demands and your fastidiousness permits. You are face to face with that evil, misnamed concoction, a New York clam chowder. If you find a clam therein, or a section of a clam, let it alone. It is not the kind of clam which enters into the real clam chowder of these shores. It is large, tough and aged, chopped with a hatchet into little bits, and used sparingly, but not sparingly enough. The best way to eat a New York clam chowder is to throw it out of a window or send it back.” Quite harsh words.

There was a bit more positivity in an article from the Morning Union (CA), August 25, 1909. The article started, “This is a very hearty dish, generally liked." It then provided a recipe for Manhattan Clam Chowder, noting, “Get five pounds of little neck clams, this being enough for six persons. Wash and put on to boil in a saucepan with a glass of water. Cover. Steep five minutes. Strain the broth and remove the clams from the shells, cutting them in half, or if they are large, in quarters. Now brown a minced onion, a minced green pepper and a quarter pound of dried salt pork, cooking until the onion is tender. Then add four potatoes diced very small; four peeled, quartered tomatoes and six Bent’s crackers rolled into small bits. Then add the broth, two glasses of water, seasoning, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire, a wineglassful of tomato catsup, some thyme leaf juice and simmer slowly until the potatoes are done but not broken into bits. Just before serving add your clams, a pinch of sugar and minced parsley. Serve oyster crackers on the side.”

More places offered Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Indianapolis Star (IN), September 18, 1909, printed an ad for White’s, which offered Manhattan Clam Chowder for 10 cents. The Pittsburgh Daily Post (PA), March 6, 1910, had an ad for Kaufman’s, offering a Lenten Lunch with Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Oregon Daily Journal, September 5, 1912, posted an ad for The Holtz Store, with a lunch menu including Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Indianapolis Star (IN), September 27, 1912, published an ad for the Budweiser Bar and Café with Manhattan Clam Chowder for 10 cents. And the Hartford Courant (CT), April 18, 1913, had an ad for the Boston Branch Grocery, with Manhattan Clam Chowder as a Buffet Special.

Back to Canada. The Star-Phoenix (Saskatchewan, Canada), December 15, 1913, had an ad for a Café at Cairns serving Manhattan Clam Chowder for 10 cents. The San Francisco Call & Post, December 18, 1913, printed an ad for Hale’s “Pompeian Court” Restaurant which served Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Ridgewood Herald (NJ), October 8, 1914, published an advertisement for the O.K. Market, which offered a Friday special of “Home-Made Manhattan Beach Clam Chowder” for 20 cents per quart. The Buffalo Times (NY), November 13, 1914, had an ad for J.N. Adam & Co., which in their Tea Room served Manhattan Clam Chowder.

I want to highlight the use of the term, "Manhattan Beach Clam Chowder" which was mentioned in the New Jersey newspaper. This actually hints at the possible origin of the term "Manhattan" clam chowder, which might have derived from a specific location, the Manhattan Beach. By itself, this certainly wouldn't be sufficient evidence, but later in this article, the more evidence and analysis will be proffered.

Canada again. The Vancouver Sun (British Columbia), February 23, 1915, printed an ad for Ritz Café, offering a 30 cent luncheon with Manhattan Clam Chowder as one of the dishes. The St. Louis Post-Dispatch, September 30, 1915, had an ad for Stix, Baer & Fuller, mentoring their Seafood Luncheon, which cost 50 cents, and included Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Star Tribune (MN), October 22, 1915, printed an ad for The Pheasant Room West Hotel Club Luncheon with their Manhattan Clam Chowder. In Hotel Monthly, Volume 24, 1916, it was noted that Manhattan Clam Chowder served at The Cadillac in Detroit. And the Evening News (PA), March 9, 1917, had an ad for The Hampton, which had a special of Manhattan Clam Chowder for 10 cents.

Again, we see that Manhattan Clam Chowder was popular all across the country, as well as in Canada.

Canned Manhattan Clam Chowder? Despite claims that the term "Manhattan" clam chowder wasn't coined until 1934, it ended up on can labels as early as 1920. The Canner/Packer, Vol.50, 1920, mentioned that “The Gorton-Pew Fisheries Co….at its Plymouth cannery, where they also pack “Down East” and “Manhattam” clam chowder,…” So, a famed Massachusetts fishery, with a canning facility in Plymouth, produced Manhattan clam chowder in a can. They didn't seem to have a problem with tomatoes in clam chowder. And that tomato-based chowder was obviously popular enough that the fishery expected the product to be profitable.

The York Dispatch (PA), March 2, 1921, posted an ad for Manhattan Clam Chowder in a can, for 15 cents.

Another recipe for Manhattan Clam Chowder. The Times Union (NY), February 26, 1929, presented winning recipes from the Brooklyn Daily Time Recipe Contest for the Lenten season. Mrs. Catherine Gottfried won $1 for her Manhattan Clam Chowder recipe, with a list of ingredients including 5 slices of bacon, diced, 1 large can of tomatoes, 1 large onion, 4 potatoes, 5 carrots, 1 stalk celery, 1 green pepper, 1 cup diced strong beans, 6 cups water, and 1 dozen large clams.

The Morning Post (NJ), July 10, 1931, printed an intriguing recipe for Clam Chowder Souffle, which required a can of Manhattan clam chowder. This would be easy for any home cook to prepare.

The Atlanta Constitution (GA), July 18, 1933, had a recipe for Manhattan Clam Chowder, which required 2 dozen fresh clams, 4 potatoes, 3 medium onions, 1/3 cup celery, 2 slices salt pork, teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and 2 cups of canned tomatoes.

Differences between Manhattan and New England chowders. The Wilkes-Barre Time Leader (PA), May 31, 1935, mentioned that "New England clam chowder is made from clams, onions, potatoes and milk with salt pork as seasoning; Manhattan style clam chowder is more like a vegetable soup with clams since it contains clams, onions, potatoes, carrots, celery, tomatoes with salt pork, thyme and other seasonings." The article then provided a recipe for Manhattan Clam Chowder.

The Boston Herald, January 13, 1936, provided an article comparing New England and Manhattan clam chowders. It begins, "The original American chowders were made with shell fish, green turtle, corn, and okra. Gradually their ingredients were extended to include all manners of seafood, meat and vegetables--even the feathered clan has found its way into the chowder kettle with chicken chowder high in favor." It then mentions the difference of the two chowders. "New England clam chowder--a creamy blend of clams, milk and potatoes--is anathema to the New Yorker. By the same token, people from 'Down East' wince at the mere mention of Manhattan clam chowder, in which the clams frolic in a highly seasoned tomato broth."

The author of the article enjoyed both versions. "Both chowders are equally delicious (there now, we've probably started something!) but with entirely different flavors." Recipes for both versions were then provided.

A law to ban tomatoes in Clam Chowder? The Austin American-Statesman (TX), January 25, 1939, published a from a story from Augusta, Maine. It stated that, “Cooks who add tomatoes to Maine clam chowder Wednesday were threatened with the impossible penalty of digging a barrel of clams at high tide. The penalty was proposed in a bill introduced in the Maine legislature by Rep. Cleveland Sleeper Jr., who explained he was alarmed by the ‘infiltration of foreign ideas of cookery,’ which he feared would ‘throw Maine clam chowder from its culinary pinnacle.” The preamble to the bill noted that “Tomatoes and clams have no affinity either of mind or body,’ and ‘Their union in a chowder is an unholy one and leads only to the moral degradation of the principals.”

The Boston Globe, January 27, 1939, explained that Cleveland Sleeper, Jr., the Maine State Representative from Rockland, had recently presented a bill to the State Legislature to “make it illegal for housewives or others to add tomatoes to Maine claim chowder, making the so-called clam chowder, New York style." Of course lovers of tomato-based chowders weren't pleased with this idea. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), January 29, 1939 mentioned that “Tomato-loving friends of so-called ‘Manhattan clam chowder’ (named for old Manhattan Beach of the day of the steam cars) were indignant.”

That article is intriguing for its explanation for the naming of "Manhattan" clam chowder. The 1880s and 1890s were a major time for the production of steam cars, and that fits within the first documented reference I found, in 1887, of the use of the term "Manhattan." It is also supported by the reference, in a New Jersey newspaper of 1914, which referenced “Home-Made Manhattan Beach Clam Chowder.” This may be a more logical origin tale than that "Manhattan" began as a term of derision.

As mentioned previously, clam chowder was very popular on Coney Island and the resorts of Manhattan Beach and Brighton Beach. Manhattan Beach tried to differentiate itself as the resort for the wealthy, and served their clam chowder in silver pans. Why wouldn't they also try to name this chowder after themselves, differentiating it from "Coney Island" chowder, making it seem a higher-quality product? So, instead of being derived from terms of derision, "Manhattan" clam chowder was more likely a designation of alleged superiority.

The Hartford Courant (CT), January 30, 1939, noted that the New York Herald Tribune has “risen to the defense of that New York favorite, the Manhattan clam chowder with tomatoes." The article also referred to a New Jersey concoction called “bully Clam Chowder,” that was made of large juicy clams, ground ripe tomatoes, green peppers, onions, parsley, spices, salt and pepper. I haven't been able to find anything else about this type of New Jersey chowder.

The Boston Herald, February 26, 1939, reported that, in five days, there would be a Clam Chowder contest, pitting Maine chowder against Manhattan chowder. The contest would occur, at 4pm, at the Hotel Lafayette in Portland, Maine, pitting a chef from Maine against a chef from Philadelphia. The event was to be the main event of the mid-Winter frolic of the Maine Hotel Association. Rep. Sleeper would represent the tomato-free chowder, and Harry Tully, an owner of a restaurant in Philadelphia and the President of the International Stewards and Caterers’ Association, would present tomato-based chowder.

A radio debate over chowder. The Boston Globe, February 27, 1939, noted that WBZ radio hosted a debate on “Should There be Tomato in Clam Chowder." The three speakers included Rep. Cleveland Sleeper, Chef Mathias Gotwalt, and Joe DiMaggio, of the New York Yankees (who was there to defend the use of the tomato in chowder). No results of the debate were provided.

The Boston Globe, February 28, 1939, and The Town Talk (LA), March 3, 1939, gave more details about the chowder showdown. Rep. Sleeper's tomato-free chowder would be prepared by George Miller, the official cook for the Maine’s Hotel Men’s association. Harry Tully's, chowder would be prepared by Chef Julius Savinese. It was now even more clear that Sleeper's bill to prohibit tomatoes in chowder was a publicity stunt.

The results of the chowder battle were detailed in the Boston Globe, March 4, 1939 and Boston Herald, March 4, 1839. About 200 people attended the event and before the chowder contest, there were a series of Maine cookery demonstrations by Maine cooks. A top prize went to Miss Prudence Stickney, age 78, from Shaker Village at Sabbath Day Lake in Poland, for her Shaker Fish and Egg Casserole.

Eleven judges presided over the chowder battle, including Paul Mack-Hale, the President of the Massachusetts Restaurant Association; Joseph Martz, president of the Epicurean Club of Boston; Arthur Greenleaf, Maine fisheries commissioner; Ruth Wakefield, inventor of Toll House cookies; and Arthur Race, manager of the Copley-Plaza hotel in Boston. None of the judges were from New York or Philadelphia, just Maine and Massachusetts, which certainly seems a bit slanted in favor of Rep. Sleeper.

And the result? “11 of New England’s leading authorities on what’s fit to eat, agreed unanimously that clam chowder is one thing, and that ‘clam chowder, Manhattan style’ is another—an inferior article.” Chef Julius Savinese lost and the judges noted that his tomato-based chowder was “Not a bad vegetable stew.” The judges even refused to refer to it as a "chowder," calling it either a "stew" or "vegetable soup." Plus, it was mentioned that Savinese had been brought to "drown good Maine clams in a little pond of tomato sauce."

In addition, it was stated that the judges “..knew what they learned at their mothers’ knees, that a true clam chowder contains salt port, milk, Maine clams, Maine potatoes and little else. They knew that to put tomatoes into a clam chowder is to commit a crime against nature.” It was also mentioned that “Behind Representative Sleeper and his measure rallied the entire state of Maine, which loves publicity as a wolf loves meat.”

An Ohio write penned an article noting the differences of the two chowders. The Plain Dealer (OH), May 4, 1941, began with "If you want to get into a spirited argument with a New Englander all you have to say is 'Tomatoes belong in a clam chowder and not milk.'" The author also believes that Manhattan clam chowder is the most popular version, though the article includes recipes for both versions.

We now can see that the term "Manhattan" clam chowder appeared much earlier, nearly fifty years, than most sources claim. Plus, this type of chowder was available all across the country, as far west as Hawaii, and even in Canada. It was even available by the can, produced by a Massachusetts fishery, prior to 1934, when most other sources claimed the term "Manhattan" clam chowder was first used.

The early appearance, as far back as 1887, as well as other evidence and analysis, seems to indicate the term wasn't created by acts of derision by New Englanders who hated tomato-based chowder. There is some evidence, which seems reasonable, that it may actually have been named after Manhattan Beach, used as a term of superiority to differentiate it from the more "plebeian" Coney Island clam chowder.

We can also see that Boston newspapers in the later 19th century were providing tomato-based chowder recipes for its readers, so not all New Englanders opposed such a thing, at least during that time period. The chowder battles between New England and New York may be a later invention, especially as they seem far more common during the 1930s.

What are your thoughts about Manhattan Clam Chowder?

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2017. I have already posted my Top Ten Wine lists, Favorite Wine-Related Items, Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items, & Top Ten Favorite Restaurant Dishes, and now I want to address my Favorite Restaurants of the past year as well as my Top 50 Restaurants.

This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable restaurants I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. You will even find a few Favorites from outside Massachusetts as I traveled a little bit this past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more Restaurant reviews, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Top Restaurant Experience: Sorry Boston, but this year the winner is located in New York City. My good friend, Adam Japko, introduced me to Torishin, a Yakitori paradise, where we sat at the chef's counter, watching the culinary magic happen in front of us. They specialize in chicken, though their other dishes, from Rosy Seabass to Kumomoto Beef, were excellent as well. They serve every part of the chicken, and each skewer was a marvel. I never expected to love chicken arteries like I did. They also have an excellent Sake and Shochu list, enhancing your dining experience. Service was superb and this restaurant earns my highest recommendation. The memories of this dinner will always remain with me.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: My dining experience at Pabu, a Japanese restaurant located in Boston's Millennium Tower, was close to being one of my top restaurant experiences of the past year. The Omakase consisted of nine courses of Nigiri Sushi and Seafood, and each course was beautifully presented and absolutely delicious, with incredibly fresh seafood. Some of the best sushi I've tasted. Their Sake list is voluminous, with plenty of great choices, including numerous ones you won't find at other local restaurants. Excellent service, a beautiful interior, and a menu of plenty of diversity. I very much want to return to explore more of their menu as I'm sure I'll find much to delight me and tantalize my palate.

Favorite Runner-Up Japanese Restaurant: While exploring the growing culinary scene in Quincy with Kerry Byrne, I was thoroughly impressed by Fuji at West of Chestnut, a Japanese restaurant which is part of an Asian restaurant group with other locations in cities like Boston and Somerville. The cuisine was creative and delicious, aesthetically pleasing and fun. The Fried Whole Fish with Black Bean Sauce was a sublime dish. Though their Sake list is small, they have some excellent options. They even had a very cool private dining area, which has Boston its own kitchen for small groups. Quincy has plenty of interesting restaurants, and Fuji is definitely one of the highlights.

Favorite Portuguese Restaurant: Though I don't get down to Fall River much, I really need to return to Terra Nostra, a killer Portuguese restaurant to which the good people of LGL Imports introduced me. From Chouriço a Bombeiro (flaming chorizo), to Cow's Leg Stew, from Lapas Grelhadas (grilled limpets), to Roasted Rabbit, the food was compelling, much of it excellent, hearty comfort food. They also have an extensive list of Portuguese wines, so many good choices at affordable prices. And the experience was enhanced by all the fine people who dined with me.

Favorite New Spanish Restaurant: Open for less than two months, Matadora is a Spanish Tapas restaurant located in the Hilton Boston/Woburn hotel and it has made a strong initial impression. With compelling dishes like Basque Street Corn to Flaming Chorizo, the tapas choices are strong, delicious and ample for the concept. Their wine list has plenty of interesting Spanish wines, including some Sherry, and their cocktails are creative and tasty. The restaurant has a cool and comfortable look, with a huge metal bull sculpture as a centerpiece. I'm looking forward to my next visit to explore more of the menu.

Favorite New Fast Casual Restaurant: I'm a huge fan of Committee, the Greek restaurant in the Fan Pier area, so I was excited when I learned they would be opening Gre.co, a Greek fast casual place specializing in Gyros and Loukoumades. I wasn't disappointed a single bit. Everything is fresh, from the meats which marinate for 24 hours, to the grilled pitas. I love their Lamb Gyro, which is packed with delicious fillings, and their crisp, hand-cut fries are topped by Feta! And the Loukoumades, Greek donuts are an addictive dessert, hot, soft and available with a variety of toppings, from chocolate to nuts. When I'm on Newbury Street, it's hard not to stop here.

Favorite New Chinese Restaurant: Hunan cuisine is not easy to find in the Boston area but the new Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, in Kendall Square, offers a number of traditional Hunan dishes, as well as some of their own takes on other Chinese dishes. I was enamored with dishes such as the succulent Mala Duck, Jimmy's Crab Bao and their take on General Tso's Chicken. Their more traditional dishes are also excellent, from the Sumiao Shang Gan to Grandma's Pork. They also have a good cocktail program, including several Baijiu cocktails which are very difficult to find in the local area. Check them out for lunch or dinner.

Favorite New Indian Restaurant: The Maya Indian Grill is a welcome addition to Wakefield, providing fresh, from scratch Indian cuisine, including regional dishes from Kashmiri, Punjabi, Bengali, Malabar, Goan and Madras. Their Lamb Samosas may be the best I've ever tasted and I was impressed with the layers of flavors in dishes like their Lamb Vindaloo and Chicken Lagan. And they make excellent Indian breads, which to a bread lover like me is so appealing. They have a lunch buffet and even offer delivery.

Favorite New Seafood Restaurant: It was exciting when the Burlington location of Island Creek Oyster Bar opened, making it even easier for me to visit this superb seafood restaurant. The Burlington location is aesthetically appealing, with special rooms for private groups, and the food & drink are as delicious as the Boston location. Wine director Laura Staley has created a unique and diverse wine list which well complements the cuisine. All of their food, from the Raw Bar to their Tuna Melt, is delicious and service is always impeccable. Seafood is such a healthy food, and everyone needs to eat more, so you all should be dining here.

Runner-Up Favorite New Seafood Restaurant: Another new seafood restaurant, Mooncusser Fish House, is offering some compelling choices. Their wine list is compelling, diverse and interesting, with plenty of classic wines, from Bordeaux to Barolo, while also celebrating less common wines, from Spanish Txakoli to Greek Moschofilero. Their cuisine is also interesting and delicious, with a killer Seafood Chowder. The restaurant is actually divided into two parts, a more casual eatery downstairs and a high-end location upstairs. I need to get back to check out more of their menu.

Favorite Restaurant with a Chef Change: As I mentioned earlier, I'm a huge fan of Committee and they had a chef change this year, hiring a new Chef de Cuisine, Theo Tsilipanos. Chef Theo is a native of the Greek city of Lamia, and even owned a restaurant there for about eight years. He has brought his own culinary skills and knowledge to Committee, making some changes to their menu, but they have been positive, maintaining the same level of quality and innovation as the prior chef. Changing one's chef can be risky but Committee had a win with the addition of Chef Theo and it remains a favorite spot.

Runner-Up Favorite Restaurant with a Chef Change: Chopps American Bar & Grill, located at the Burlington Marriott Hotel, also hired a new Executive Chef, Steve Zimei. Chef Steve began his culinary career working for Chef Daniel Bruce and eventually worked in a number of other local restaurants before returning to work for Chef Bruce at Chopps. Their food remains at a high level of quality, without an iota of diminishment. Some changes have obviously come to the menu but the new dishes are creative and delicious. My admiration for this restaurant continues.

Favorite New Unique Cuisine Restaurant: It appears to be a one-of-a-kind restaurant in Massachusetts, the only one dedicated to Moldovan cuisine. The Moldova Restaurant in Newton offers tasty and comforting Moldovan cuisine and also Moldovan wines. Though the names of the dishes sound unfamiliar, like Plăcinte la Tigaie and Mititei Moldovenesti, the food itself will bring to mind Eastern European favorites. I was quite taken with their cuisine, even their amazing Chicken Soup, and it was well complemented by their wines. This unique restaurant is something you need to experience and I'm sure you'll be a convert after your meal.

Favorite Pizza/Pasta Restaurant: Once again Ciao! Pizza & Pasta makes my Favorites list. Though I haven't dined there are often as usual, my experiences have remained consistent. Great food, from their wood-fired pizzas to their house-made pasta dishes. Prices are very reasonable considering the quality and quantity of food you receive. The owners, Edson Coimbra and Chef Marvin Posada, are the nicest and most genuine of people. I've brought many people here and everyone who has accompanied me has loved the place. If you haven't dined here yet, you need to make a New Year's resolution to immediately remedy that.

Favorite New York Lunch Restaurant: When I travel to New York City, I nearly always find a way to have lunch at Momofuku Ssäm Bar, though I've actually never had dinner there. Their Rotisserie Duck is amazing, so tender and flavorful with a crispy chive pancake. However, the rest of their menu is also excellent, such as their scrumptious steamed buns. They also have an interesting wine list and I'm never disappointed when I dine here. Plus, after lunch, I can walk across the street to their Milk Bar for a sweet treat.

Favorite Chicago Restaurants: On a short, whirlwind visit to Chicago, Adam Japko and I packed in plenty of restaurant visits and my top three includes QXY Dumplings, Slurping Turtle, and Motomaro. QXY Dumplings, located in Chinatown, specializes in dumplings, with about 40 different types, and they are all basically soup dumplings. Delicious comfort food and you can even watch the kitchen staff making the dumplings. Slurping Turtle is a ramen spot, but their Duck Fat Fried Chicken is a decadent wonder. This is another comfort food spot, which also has a large selection of Japanese whiskey. Motomaro is a high-end Japanese spot with a large and diverse menu, each dish delicious and creative. Plus, they have a nice Sake list as well as plenty of intriguing cocktails. Chicago is definitely a great food city.

The Passionate Foodie's Top 50 Restaurants
     In addition to the Favorites listed above, I've compiled a list of my own Top 50 Restaurants, those Massachusetts places where I'm sure to always have a delicious meal, whether a casual breakfast or a high-end French dinner. These are the places I seem to recommend the most to others, including some places where I dine on a regular basis. Many of these places have been listed on prior Favorite Lists, some for multiple years, and are all worthy of recognition and recommendation. There are also some new Favorites, places I only recently encountered but which I know I will be returning frequently. Please note that this is not a list of the "Best" Boston-area restaurants, but my own personal favorites. There are plenty of other excellent restaurants in the area and just because a place is not on my list doesn't mean I wouldn't recommend it.

Beverly
A&B Burgers

Boston
Asta
Bistro du Midi
Committee
Dumpling Cafe
Erbaluce 
Gre.co
L'Espalier 
Myers & Chang
Nebo
Oishii 
Pabu
Prezza
Select Oyster Bar
Taranta
Troquet

Brookline
Taberna de Haro

Burlington
The Bancroft
Besito
Chopps American Bar & Grill
Island Creek Oyster Bar
Sichuan Gourmet

Cambridge
BISq
Craigie on Main
Little Donkey
Puritan & Co.
Sumiao Hunan Kitchen
Tampopo

Chelsea
Ciao! Pizza & Pasta

Fall River:
Terra Nostra

Ipswich
Clam Box

Medford
Bistro 5
Tasty On The Hill

Newton
Moldova Restaurant

Quincy
Fuji at West of Chestnut

Saugus
Iron Town Diner

Somerville
Bergamot 
Bronwyn
Dali
The Painted Burro
Posto
Saloon
Tasting Counter

Stoneham
Fusion Taste
Taste of Siam

Wakefield
The Porch

Waltham
Osteria Posto

Woburn
Gene's Chinese Flatbread Cafe
Matadora
WuBurger

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

If you're seeking an exceptional restaurant in New York City, then I must give one of my heartiest recommendation to Torishin.

While planning our recent visit to New York City, my good friend Adam Japko made reservations for us to visit Torishin. He'd dined there before and been thoroughly impressed, knowing that I would appreciate it. Before our visit, Pete Wells of the New York Times wrote a stellar review of Torishin, giving it three stars. After I dined there, I fully understood the reasons for the raves as it is an exceptional restaurant, offering yakitori that elevates chicken to new heights.

The name of the restaurant breaks down into “Tori,” which means “chicken,” and “Shin,” which means “spirit.” And that spirit of the chicken permeates the restaurant. It is a Japanese yakitori, "grilled chicken," restaurant, and originated in Tokyo, Japan, with an outpost established in New York City back in 2007. They specialize in using traditional methods to prepare and cook every part of the chicken, wasting nothing. I actually wouldn't have been surprised if they had found a way to use chicken feathers. The chickens they use are organic, and their other ingredients, such as their vegetables, are often locally sourced except much of their seafood which comes from the seas of Japan.

Their grilled chicken are cooked over Kishu Binchotan, a traditional Japanese charcoal that releases larger quantities of infrared rays, allowing the meat to get crispy outside while remaining moist and juicy inside. It burns at a lower temperature, but for a longer time, than regular charcoal and also doesn't release lots of smoke. Cooking over these binchotan is a skill, and you will see the chef at the grill, frequently fanning it throughout the evening, keeping the charcoals hot.

As you enter the restaurant, there's a small bar to the immediate left and then you proceed through a doorway into the main dining area or you can go upstairs to a smaller dining area. In the regular dining areas, you can order the yakitori and organic vegetable skewers a la carte, generally priced $4-$8 each. You also have the option of a 10 Skewer Set (with 7 meats & 3 veggies) for $65 or an Omakase for $70. In addition, they offer some Small Plates ($6-$27), including dishes such as Grilled Organic Edamame, Broiled Sea Urchin with Garlic, Chawanmushi and Homemade Chicken Cha-shu. There are also several Rice Dishes ($17-$22), such as Oyako Don and Ume Chazuke.

We though had reservations at the Select Counter, basically a chef's table with only eight seats at a counter and where you are served a superb omakase dinner. The counter is made from Hinoki wood, Japanese cypress, which is considered a sacred material. Chef Atsushi Kono (pictured above) presides over the grill, and spent nearly all of the evening in front of the grill, cooking all of the yaiktori to perfection. The Chef had two assistants at the Select Counter and we interacted more with them, as they prepared, plated and served us the various dishes we would enjoy. We also had a server, who worked only in the Select Counter room, providing us attentive and responsive service. All of this combined to transform  this from a mere dinner to a more expansive dining experience.

Torishin has a full bar, from Wine to Beer, Japanese Whiskey to Shochu. Their Sake list has about 21 options, with more than half available by the glass. There is a good variety of Sake, prices are generally reasonable, and some of them are offered hot. Over the course of the evening, we ordered two different Sakes, and both were quite good though very different. The Harada Muroka Namagenshu Junmai Ginjo ($110/bottle) had a round mouthfeel with some delightful berry flavors along with floral elements. The Fukuju Junmai Ginjo ($75/bottle) was superb, with a dry, clean and elegant taste with plenty of fruit notes. It was silky smooth, drinking so easily, and I could have sat all night drinking this Sake. Highly recommended.

On their drinks list, you'll also find they carry about 12 Shochu, most made from Sweet Potato, and all available by the glass or bottle. Before going to Torishin, I spoke with Stephen Lyman, a Shochu expert, seeking some recommendations. He noted that Torishin is one of his favorite restaurants and he gave me some Shochu recs, which I'll discuss later in this post.

As you sit at the Select Counter, you'll find in front of you a few containers of soy sauce, sansho (Japanese pepper) and shichimi (a Japanese spice blend). Though you can use these condiments on any of the skewers or dishes you receive, the Chef's assistants give advice on when they recommend you use certain condiments with specific items. We followed their advice, figuring they knew best how to season the various skewers and dishes.

The Omakase ($150/per person) offers the seven skewers in the box above, with your choice of either a King Crab Leg or Kumamoto A5 Beef. In addition, you'll receive a number of other dishes and also get a choice of a rice dish, like Oyako Don, or a soup, like Ramen. During the course of the dinner, we also ordered a few extra skewers a la carte, to sample more of the various chicken parts. It's the type of restaurant where you want to sit and sample everything they have to offer.

During the course of our dinner, I took numerous photos but I didn't take any notes. I was primarily there to enjoy the experience, and not write a detailed review. Plus, I wanted to eat each skewer as soon as it was put before me, garnering the maximum amount of pleasure. So, you won't find many notes accompanying the following photos but I can't stress enough how delicious and exceptional the experience was that evening. Much of the food was prepared relatively simply, but the high quality ingredients and perfect execution of cooking techniques elevated these items far above the ordinary. The chef was able to extract so much flavor in many of these items, including more unusual body parts that you might not even consider to be edible.

Ever had chicken arteries?

This was our first taste, an Eggplant dish, and though I'm not a huge fan of eggplant, this was a tasty item, with some creaminess and slightly bitter notes.

The next dish was killer, two pieces of lightly seared fish and grilled bamboo shoots. Both of the fish were from the waters off Japan, and the middle piece is Rosy Seabass though I don't recall the name of the other fish. However, both were excellent, tender, melt-in-you-mouth seafood. The bamboo shoots were also tender, with a nice crunchy texture, and a nutty, savory taste. Torishin might be best known for its chicken, but their seafood is exceptional as well.

The first two yakitori skewers included Chicken Liver and Tenderloin. The liver was tender and earthy, with a silky texture. The tenderloin pieces were more flavorful than much of the chicken you are probably used to, with a very light sear. Relative simplicity but so much flavor.

The Neck meat was also tender and flavorful, with some crunchier, charred pieces adding to the taste.

The Baby Corn was tender and slightly crunchy, a nice intermission before additional chicken skewers.

This is the Main Artery, actually comprised of the arteries from 6 chickens. I was surprised at how tasty this was, with a lightly chewy texture (which I expected to be far more chewy). This was actually one of my favorite skewers of the evening.

This small fish was prepared with a light tempura and accompanied by a green veggie, also tempura. It resembled a flying fish caught in a tree. Again though, this was an excellent and delicious dish, with a light and crunchy tempura and the meaty fish.

Next, were some slices of Kumamoto A5 Beef with a couple potato slices. The beef was very tender and moist, with compelling flavors.

The King Crab Leg was sweet and tender.

These grilled Tomatoes impressed, despite their simplicity. When I popped one in my mouth, and bit into it, my mouth was filled by the hot, sweet and acidic juices inside of the tomato. A burst of umami that went well with the Sake.

I wasn't as crazy about this dish with Chicken Gizzards, more of a texture issue than flavor-wise.

Besides the chicken, the restaurant also has Quail, which was tender and meaty, with a bit of a gamier taste than the chicken, and some nice crispy skin elements.

The Chicken Oyster is the small piece of dark meat on either side of the chicken's backbone, and is considered by many to be the best part of the chicken. It certainly was full of flavor, moist and tender, with a nice char. I certainly would have enjoyed a few more skewers of this.

The Chicken & Duck Meatball was accompanied by an egg and they suggested you stir up the yolk and dunk the meatball into the yolk. The meatball was amazing, moist and meaty, and didn't need anything more but the yolk actually enhanced the meatball.

The Knee Gristle wasn't as tough as you might expect and had plenty of flavor.


Two more skewers and I'm not exactly sure what they are, though I do recall both were tasty and well cooked.

For our rice or soup dish, we opted for the Tsukemen, a type of ramen where you dip your noodles in a separate bowl of broth, and you can see the broth bowl above. The slightly chewy noodles were excellent, and the broth was full of umami and intense flavor. Tsukemen is certainly a way to ensure your noodles don't get too soft from continually sitting in a bowl of broth.

We then ended our dinner with a choice of desserts. I opted for the Shiso (Japanese Mojito) Sorbet because I was planning to have a glass of Shochu, the Tenshi no Yuwaku ($18/glass). Shochu expert Stephen Lyman recommended the pairing so I took his advice. The Tenshi no Yuwaku is a sweet potato Shochu which was fermented in Sherry casks for about 10 years. This is a more unique Shochu as few are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. I enjoyed it neat, finding it rich and creamy, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity. And it worked well with the sorbet. I really need to get a bottle of this Shochu.

What a superb dining experience, an evening of great food and drink. Within the Select Counter, it almost feels as if you were dining at a tiny specialized spot in Tokyo. I thoroughly enjoyed the various skewers and dishes, so much delicious diversity, which was accompanied by tasty Sake. I fully understood why Adam Japko was so impressed with this restaurant and I now share his sentiment. Service was excellent and I didn't have a single complaint about anything. Torishin is definitely one of my favorite restaurants of the year and receives my highest recommendation.  I will certainly be returning there on one of my next trips to New York City.

It's been six years since I last visited Momofuku Ssäm Bar in New York City and on that prior visit, detailed in Duck Extraordinare, I was thoroughly impressed. So, on my recent trip back to NYC, I wanted to return there, to hopefully experience once again the delights of their rotisserie duck. There is always a little trepidation when returning to any restaurant after a number of years has passed. You worry that it might have changed, that it might not be as good any longer.

However, I was willing to take that risk and in the end, after my lunch there last week, I feel that the restaurant may even be better than my prior visit.

Momofuku, which is Japanese for "lucky peach," has grown greatly since 2011, a culinary empire with additional restaurants now in Washington, D.C., Las Vegas, Toronto and Australia. Adam Japko and I stopped at the Momofuku Ssäm Bar for lunch, both of us excited for what we hoped to come. In Korea, ssäm refers to "wrapped food," indicative of their main lunch entrees, meat which is wrapped in either lettuce or chive pancakes.

Their menu has grown since my last visit, especially adding more meat options. You can start with Country Ham (5 types priced $12-$20) or a get a Ham sampler for $37. Under Etc., you can select six different appetizers ($7-$19) such as Togarashi Chicarron or Honeycrisp Apple Kimchi. You'll also find Sides (8 choices at $4 each or 5 for $16) including Pickles and Tea Eggs. For entrees, there is a selection of Meats, including Stuffed Rotisserie Duck, Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder, Seven Spiced Beef Brisket, Gochu Glazed Pork Ribs, and Spicy Ginger Scallion Porgy. These meats can be ordered Solo (meat & cucumbers, $11-14), Ssäm (Solo plus rice & lettuce, $14-$17) or Plate (Solo & two sides, $16-$19). There is an additional charge for Extra Lettuce ($1) or Chive Pancake ($1).

Their Drinks menu is eclectic and interesting, including beer, cider, wine, Sake, soju, and more. The Wine list, with 15 available by the glass, will appeal to geeky wine lovers who love more unusual choices, and mark-ups generally are reasonable. The Wine list is primarily French but there are plenty of other regions represented as well, from Italy to Lebanon, California to Germany. The Sake list is small, though they have some good choices and also carry 5 Sakes in large format, 1.8 Liter bottles. They also have plenty of spirits and intriguing cocktails.

We began with the Benton's Ham (from Madisonville, TN) which were accompanied by a couple slices of crusty baguette. The thinly sliced ham was delicious, with a silky texture and a mouthwatering blend of fat and salt. And the bread was excellent too. A nice way to begin our lunch, and made me wish we had ordered the ham sampler to try all of the country hams.

We then had a couple of Steamed Buns, which were made with pork belly, hoison, cucumber, and scallion. First, the buns were soft and slightly spongy (in a good way). Second, like the country ham, the pork belly was silky, melting in your mouth, and with a delightful blend of fat and saltiness. Third, it was enhanced by the tangy and sweet hoisin sauce and the crunch of the thinly sliced cucumbers. Simply a perfect pork bun, one of the best I've ever eaten, each bite blissful.

The Spicy Rice Cakes were made with pork and scallions, offering chewy rice cakes, enhanced by the heat of the spices and the tender, flavorful pork. This was a heartier dish and large enough to share.

The Stuffed Rotisserie Duck, Ssäm style with a chive pancake, was as good as I remembered. The crispy skin was exquisite, bursting with flavor and texture, while the duck meat itself was juicy and tender, melting in your mouth. This was perfectly cooked duck and I couldn't think of any way in which it could have been made better. If you love duck, then you MUST go here and try this rotisserie duck. The chive pancake is similar in a scallion pancake, though maybe a bit thinner, and also was delicious, with a great crispness and some buttery elements. I made my own duck "taco", adding a touch of hoisin and cucumbers. Next time, I'll have to try some of the other meat options as I suspect they will be equally as delicious.

With our lunch, we ordered a bottle of the 2008 Radikon Jakot Friuliano (500 ml/$72), which can retail for about $40. This is an "orange" wine, made from 100% Friuliano in the Friuli region of Italy. It was a stunning wine, with a fascinating melange of flavors, from apricot to salted nuts, dried herbs to honey. It is one of those wines that brings something new to every sip. It paired well with the pork and duck dishes.

Once again, Momofuku Ssäm Bar presented an amazing lunch, its quality not having diminished a single iota over the years. If anything, with its expanded menu, the restaurant is even better. Their Rotisserie Duck remains one of the best duck dishes I've ever eaten. What makes it all the more compelling is that most of these dishes are relatively simple, comfort foods that are perfectly executed. If I lived in NYC, I'd probably be having lunch at Ssäm Bar every week. It receives my highest recommendation.