Nothing Special   »   [go: up one dir, main page]

skip to main content
10.1145/3613904.3642338acmconferencesArticle/Chapter ViewAbstractPublication PageschiConference Proceedingsconference-collections
research-article

Expressive Clothing: Understanding Hobbyist-Sewers' Visions for Self-Expression Through Clothing

Published: 11 May 2024 Publication History

Abstract

Researchers have found that hobbyist-sewers seek to create new or adapted clothing designs that foster self-expression through communicating ideas, opinions and emotions. Although existing sewing technologies enable designing new patterns, they focus only on the technical aspects of pattern drafting and not on how information can be expressed. To address this gap, we conducted a qualitative diary study with 12 hobbyist-sewers to better understand how they envision creating expressive clothing. From our analysis of the 24 expressive clothing sketches participants created and participant interviews, we identified i) five distinctive multifaceted approaches participants used for self-expression; and ii) four challenges participants identified from their design process. Informed by these insights, we present a set of implications for the design of future technologies that can better support hobbyist-sewers in designing and creating expressive clothing.

Supplemental Material

MP4 File - Video Preview
Video Preview
MP4 File - Video Presentation
Video Presentation
Transcript for: Video Presentation
PDF File - Participant Activity Book Template
This file is a template of the activity booklet (diary probe) that participants were asked to engage with over the independent diary phase of the study.

References

[1]
2022. Arduino projects. https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub
[2]
2022. Fun Electronic Projects. https://learn.adafruit.com/guides/projects
[3]
2022. Home. https://www.arduino.cc/
[4]
2022. Home. https://www.adafruit.com/
[5]
[5] 2023. https://www.adobe.com/ca/
[6]
2023. How Fashion Meets Culture. https://artsandculture.google.com/story/how-fashion-meets-culture/gwLyN_zp-PN1Lg
[7]
2023. What is Fashion?https://artsandculture.google.com/theme/hwKSYSaJMOwAKA
[8]
Neeharika Adabala, Nadia Magnenat-Thalmann, Guangzheng Fei, and CH1211 Geneva. 1995. Real-time visualization of woven textiles. Journal of Textile Institute 86, 4 (1995), 635–648.
[9]
Anne Adams, Peter Lunt, and Paul Cairns. 2008. A qualitative approach to HCI research. Cambridge University Press, 138–157. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511814570.008
[10]
Chloe Angus. 2022. Chloe Angus Design. https://www.chloeangus.com/
[11]
Maura Banim, Eileen Green, Ali Guy, Claudia Mitchell, Jacqueline Reid-Walsh, Walt Mueller, Thomas H Wheeler, and Chris Baker. 2001. Through the wardrobe. Women’s Relationships with their Clothes (2001).
[12]
Fiona Bell and Mirela Alistar. 2022. Designing with Alganyl: A Hands-on Exploration of Biodegradable Plastics. In Sixteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Daejeon, Republic of Korea) (TEI ’22). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 56, 5 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3490149.3503669
[13]
Mary Ellen Berglund, James Coughlin, Guido Gioberto, and Lucy E. Dunne. 2014. Washability of E-Textile Stretch Sensors and Sensor Insulation. In Proceedings of the 2014 ACM International Symposium on Wearable Computers (Seattle, Washington) (ISWC ’14). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 127–128. https://doi.org/10.1145/2634317.2634326
[14]
Ann Blandford, Stephann Makri, and Dominic Furniss. 2016. Qualitative HCI research: Going behind the scenes. Morgan & Claypool Publishers.
[15]
Shunying An Blevis and Eli Blevis. 2022. Visible Mending. In Nordic Human-Computer Interaction Conference (Aarhus, Denmark) (NordiCHI ’22). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 87, 13 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3546155.3547291
[16]
Wanique Block. 2023. The art of storytelling in fashion. https://guap.co/the-art-of-storytelling-in-fashion/
[17]
Mark Blythe, Enrique Encinas, Jofish Kaye, Miriam Lueck Avery, Rob McCabe, and Kristina Andersen. 2018. Imaginary Design Workbooks: Constructive Criticism and Practical Provocation. In Proceedings of the 2018 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Montreal QC, Canada) (CHI ’18). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1–12. https://doi.org/10.1145/3173574.3173807
[18]
Kirsten Boehner, Janet Vertesi, Phoebe Sengers, and Paul Dourish. 2007. How HCI Interprets the Probes. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (San Jose, California, USA) (CHI ’07). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1077–1086. https://doi.org/10.1145/1240624.1240789
[19]
Adrian Bolesnikov, Karen Anne Cochrane, and Audrey Girouard. 2023. Wearable Identities: Understanding Wearables’ Potential for Supporting the Expression of Queer Identities. In Proceedings of the 2023 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems(CHI ’23). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 393, 19 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3544548.3581327
[20]
Leah Buechley. 2010. LilyPad Arduino: Rethinking the Materials and Cultures of Educational Technology. In Proceedings of the 9th International Conference of the Learning Sciences - Volume 2 (Chicago, Illinois) (ICLS ’10). International Society of the Learning Sciences, 127–128.
[21]
Leah Buechley, Mike Eisenberg, Jaime Catchen, and Ali Crockett. 2008. The LilyPad Arduino: Using Computational Textiles to Investigate Engagement, Aesthetics, and Diversity in Computer Science Education. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Florence, Italy) (CHI ’08). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 423–432. https://doi.org/10.1145/1357054.1357123
[22]
Leah Buechley and Benjamin Mako Hill. 2010. LilyPad in the Wild: How Hardware’s Long Tail is Supporting New Engineering and Design Communities. In Proceedings of the 8th ACM Conference on Designing Interactive Systems (Aarhus, Denmark) (DIS ’10). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 199–207. https://doi.org/10.1145/1858171.1858206
[23]
Jessica Bugg. 2014. Emotion and memory: Clothing the body as performance. In Presence and absence: The performing body. Brill, 29–52.
[24]
Bill Buxton. 2011. Sketching user experiences: Getting the design right and the right design. Morgan Kaufmann.
[25]
Scott Carter and Jennifer Mankoff. 2005. When Participants Do the Capturing: The Role of Media in Diary Studies. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Portland, Oregon, USA) (CHI ’05). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 899–908. https://doi.org/10.1145/1054972.1055098
[26]
Amy Chen. 2020. The Design and Creation of Tactile Knitted E-Textiles for Interactive Applications. In Proceedings of the Fourteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Sydney NSW, Australia) (TEI ’20). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 905–909. https://doi.org/10.1145/3374920.3374959
[27]
Janet X. Chen, Francesco Vitale, and Joanna McGrenere. 2021. What Happens After Death? Using a Design Workbook to Understand User Expectations for Preparing Their Data. In Proceedings of the 2021 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Yokohama, Japan) (CHI ’21). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 169, 13 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3411764.3445359
[28]
Norma Clarke. 2020. The stuff of life: Work, loss, tradition, storytelling; how fabric can help to remake communities.TLS. Times Literary Supplement6092 (2020), 20–21.
[29]
Elise Dee Co. 2000. Computation and technology as expressive elements of fashion. Ph. D. Dissertation.
[30]
Orange Culture. 2023. Peacock riot - SS22. https://www.notjustalabel.com/collection/orangeculture/peacock-riot-ss22
[31]
Rebecca Cunningham. 2019. The magic garment: Principles of costume design. Waveland Press.
[32]
Ella Dagan, Elena Márquez Segura, Ferran Altarriba Bertran, Miguel Flores, Robb Mitchell, and Katherine Isbister. 2019. Design Framework for Social Wearables. In Proceedings of the 2019 on Designing Interactive Systems Conference (San Diego, CA, USA) (DIS ’19). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1001–1015. https://doi.org/10.1145/3322276.3322291
[33]
Hong Dai. 2021. Comparison of Traditional Manual Embroidery and Computer Machine Embroidery in Dress Design in Internet Age. In The Sixth International Conference on Information Management and Technology (Jakarta, Indonesia) (ICIMTECH 21). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 156, 5 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3465631.3465826
[34]
Sasha de Koninck, Laura Devendorf, Chad Di Lauro, Emma Goodwill, and Shanel Wu. 2021. A fabric that remembers. https://www.colorado.edu/atlas/fabric-remembers
[35]
Artem Dementyev, Hsin-Liu (Cindy) Kao, Inrak Choi, Deborah Ajilo, Maggie Xu, Joseph A. Paradiso, Chris Schmandt, and Sean Follmer. 2016. Rovables: Miniature On-Body Robots as Mobile Wearables. In Proceedings of the 29th Annual Symposium on User Interface Software and Technology (Tokyo, Japan) (UIST ’16). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 111–120. https://doi.org/10.1145/2984511.2984531
[36]
Audrey Desjardins, Cayla Key, Heidi R. Biggs, and Kelsey Aschenbeck. 2019. Bespoke Booklets: A Method for Situated Co-Speculation. In Proceedings of the 2019 on Designing Interactive Systems Conference (San Diego, CA, USA) (DIS ’19). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 697–709. https://doi.org/10.1145/3322276.3322311
[37]
Laura Devendorf. 2020. A fabric that remembers. http://artfordorks.com/a-fabric-that-remembers/
[38]
Laura Devendorf and Chad Di Lauro. 2019. Adapting Double Weaving and Yarn Plying Techniques for Smart Textiles Applications. In Proceedings of the Thirteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Tempe, Arizona, USA) (TEI ’19). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 77–85. https://doi.org/10.1145/3294109.3295625
[39]
Laura Devendorf, Joanne Lo, Noura Howell, Jung Lin Lee, Nan-Wei Gong, M. Emre Karagozler, Shiho Fukuhara, Ivan Poupyrev, Eric Paulos, and Kimiko Ryokai. 2016. "I Don’t Want to Wear a Screen": Probing Perceptions of and Possibilities for Dynamic Displays on Clothing. In Proceedings of the 2016 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (San Jose, California, USA) (CHI ’16). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 6028–6039. https://doi.org/10.1145/2858036.2858192
[40]
Lucy E. Dunne. 2019. Intro to the Human Body: Wearability and Human Factors of Wearable Systems. In Extended Abstracts of the 2019 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Glasgow, Scotland Uk) (CHI EA ’19). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1–3. https://doi.org/10.1145/3290607.3298822
[41]
Lucy E. Dunne and Barry Smyth. 2007. Psychophysical Elements of Wearability. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (San Jose, California, USA) (CHI ’07). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 299–302. https://doi.org/10.1145/1240624.1240674
[42]
Esraa El-Sayed, Hanan Othman, and Ahmed Hassabo. 2022. A Short Observation on the Printing Cotton Fabric using Some Technique. Journal of Textiles, Coloration and Polymer Science 19, 1 (2022), 17–24. https://doi.org/10.21608/jtcps.2021.86368.1077
[43]
Adam K Fetterman, Michael D Robinson, Robert D Gordon, and Andrew J Elliot. 2011. Anger as seeing red: Perceptual sources of evidence. Social psychological and personality science 2, 3 (2011), 311–316.
[44]
Yanglei Gan, Tianyi Wang, Alireza Javaheri, Elaheh Momeni-Ortner, Milad Dehghani, Mehdi Hosseinzadeh, and Reza Rawassizadeh. 2021. 11 Years with Wearables: Quantitative Analysis of Social Media, Academia, News Agencies, and Lead User Community from 2009-2020 on Wearable Technologies. Proc. ACM Interact. Mob. Wearable Ubiquitous Technol. 5, 1, Article 11 (mar 2021), 26 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3448096
[45]
William Gaver. 2011. Making Spaces: How Design Workbooks Work. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Vancouver, BC, Canada) (CHI ’11). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1551–1560. https://doi.org/10.1145/1978942.1979169
[46]
Caglar Genc, Oguz ’Oz Buruk, Shiva Jabari, Lee Jones, Kirill Ragozin, Kate Hartman, Johanna Virkki, Kai Kunze, Oskar Juhlin, and Jonna Häkkilä. 2022. Toolkits & Wearables: Developing Toolkits for Exploring Wearable Designs. In Extended Abstracts of the 2022 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (New Orleans, LA, USA) (CHI EA ’22). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 111, 5 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3491101.3503715
[47]
Erving Goffman. 2021. The presentation of self in everyday life. Anchor.
[48]
Bruna Goveia da Rocha, Oscar Tomico, Panos Markopoulos, and Daniel Tetteroo. 2020. Crafting Research Products through Digital Machine Embroidery. In Proceedings of the 2020 ACM Designing Interactive Systems Conference (Eindhoven, Netherlands) (DIS ’20). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 341–350. https://doi.org/10.1145/3357236.3395443
[49]
Camilla Gåfvels and Viveca Lindberg. 2021. Theorising craft practices through sketching: The case of Swedish post-compulsory floristry and textile education. FormAkademisk 14, 2 (May 2021). https://doi.org/10.7577/formakademisk.4206
[50]
Jonna Häkkilä, Ashley Colley, Paula Roinesalo, and Jani Väyrynen. 2017. Clothing Integrated Augmented Reality Markers. In Proceedings of the 16th International Conference on Mobile and Ubiquitous Multimedia (Stuttgart, Germany) (MUM ’17). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 113–121. https://doi.org/10.1145/3152832.3152850
[51]
Jonna Häkkilä and Paula Roinesalo. 2017. Enhanced Through Clothing. https://www.hcilab.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/AmplifyCHI17_H%C3%A4kkil%C3%A4.pdf
[52]
Nur Al-huda Hamdan, Simon Voelker, and Jan Borchers. 2018. Sketch&Stitch: Interactive Embroidery for E-Textiles. In Proceedings of the 2018 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Montreal QC, Canada) (CHI ’18). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1–13. https://doi.org/10.1145/3173574.3173656
[53]
Sarah Hyndman. 2019. How typography impacts your mood. https://shyndman.medium.com/how-typography-impacts-your-mood-5bbc3386de03
[54]
Sarah J Isherwood, Siné JP McDougall, and Martin B Curry. 2007. Icon identification in context: The changing role of icon characteristics with user experience. Human Factors 49, 3 (2007), 465–476.
[55]
Pradthana Jarusriboonchai, Felix A. Epp, Thomas Olsson, Andrés Lucero, Oscar Tomico, Eric Paulos, and Jonna Häkkilä. 2019. Beyond Individuals: Exploring Social Experiences around Wearables. In Adjunct Proceedings of the 2019 ACM International Joint Conference on Pervasive and Ubiquitous Computing and Proceedings of the 2019 ACM International Symposium on Wearable Computers (London, United Kingdom) (UbiComp/ISWC ’19 Adjunct). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 454–456. https://doi.org/10.1145/3341162.3347754
[56]
Pradthana Jarusriboonchai and Jonna Häkkilä. 2019. Customisable Wearables: Exploring the Design Space of Wearable Technology. In Proceedings of the 18th International Conference on Mobile and Ubiquitous Multimedia (Pisa, Italy) (MUM ’19). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 20, 9 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3365610.3365635
[57]
Lee Jones and Audrey Girouard. 2021. Patching Textiles: Insights from Visible Mending Educators on Wearability, Extending the Life of Our Clothes, and Teaching Tangible Crafts. In Creativity and Cognition (Virtual Event, Italy) (C&C ’21). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 36, 11 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3450741.3465265
[58]
Lee Jones, Sara Nabil, Amanda McLeod, and Audrey Girouard. 2020. Wearable Bits: Scaffolding Creativity with a Prototyping Toolkit for Wearable E-Textiles. In Proceedings of the Fourteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Sydney NSW, Australia) (TEI ’20). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 165–177. https://doi.org/10.1145/3374920.3374954
[59]
Susan B Kaiser. 1985. Social psychology of clothing and personal adornment. Macmillan.
[60]
Majeed Kazemitabaar, Jason McPeak, Alexander Jiao, Liang He, Thomas Outing, and Jon E. Froehlich. 2017. MakerWear: A Tangible Approach to Interactive Wearable Creation for Children. In Proceedings of the 2017 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Denver, Colorado, USA) (CHI ’17). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 133–145. https://doi.org/10.1145/3025453.3025887
[61]
Joy Kim, Mira Dontcheva, Wilmot Li, Michael S. Bernstein, and Daniela Steinsapir. 2015. Motif: Supporting Novice Creativity through Expert Patterns. In Proceedings of the 33rd Annual ACM Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Seoul, Republic of Korea) (CHI ’15). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1211–1220. https://doi.org/10.1145/2702123.2702507
[62]
Konstantin Klamka, Raimund Dachselt, and Jürgen Steimle. 2020. Demonstrating Rapid Iron-On User Interfaces: Hands-on Fabrication of Interactive Textile Prototypes. In Extended Abstracts of the 2020 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Honolulu, HI, USA) (CHI EA ’20). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1–4. https://doi.org/10.1145/3334480.3383139
[63]
Marion Koelle, Susanne Boll, Thomas Olsson, Julie Williamson, Halley Profita, Shaun Kane, and Robb Mitchell. 2018. (Un)Acceptable!?! Re-Thinking the Social Acceptability of Emerging Technologies. In Extended Abstracts of the 2018 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Montreal QC, Canada) (CHI EA ’18). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1–8. https://doi.org/10.1145/3170427.3170620
[64]
Marion Koelle, Thomas Olsson, Robb Mitchell, Julie Williamson, and Susanne Boll. 2019. What is (Un)Acceptable? Thoughts on Social Acceptability in HCI Research. Interactions 26, 3 (apr 2019), 36–40. https://doi.org/10.1145/3319073
[65]
Andreas R. Köhler. 2013. Challenges for eco-design of emerging technologies: The case of electronic textiles. Materials & Design 51 (2013), 51–60. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.matdes.2013.04.012
[66]
Mikahila L.2022. 3D knitwear: How 3D printing is revolutionizing the fashion industry. https://www.3dnatives.com/en/3d-printing-knitwear-220720215/
[67]
Nicolle Lamerichs. 2011. Stranger than fiction: Fan identity in cosplay. Transformative Works and Cultures 7, 3 (2011), 56–72.
[68]
Paul Le Floch, Xi Yao, Qihan Liu, Zhengjing Wang, Guodong Nian, Yu Sun, Li Jia, and Zhigang Suo. 2017. Wearable and Washable Conductors for Active Textiles. ACS Applied Materials & Interfaces 9, 30 (2017), 25542–25552. https://doi.org/10.1021/acsami.7b07361 _eprint: https://doi.org/10.1021/acsami.7b07361.
[69]
Mackenzie Leake, Kathryn Jin, Abe Davis, and Stefanie Mueller. 2023. InStitches: Augmenting Sewing Patterns with Personalized Material-Efficient Practice. In Proceedings of the 2023 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Hamburg, Germany) (CHI ’23). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 267, 14 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3544548.3581499
[70]
Yi-Chin Lee and Daniel Cardoso Llach. 2020. Hybrid Embroidery: Exploring Interactive Fabrication in Handcrafts. In ACM SIGGRAPH 2020 Art Gallery (Virtual Event, USA) (SIGGRAPH ’20). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 429–433. https://doi.org/10.1145/3386567.3388575
[71]
Wanda Lephoto. 2022. Gaze. https://wandalephoto.com/portfolio-item/gaze/
[72]
Rebecca Lin, Muhammad “Tuan” Amith, Chen Liang, Rui Duan, Yong Chen, and Cui Tao. 2018. Visualized Emotion Ontology: a model for representing visual cues of emotions. BMC medical informatics and decision making 18 (2018), 101–113.
[73]
Kristina Lindström and Åsa Ståhl. 2010. Threads - a Mobile Sewing Circle: Making Private Matters Public in Temporary Assemblies. In Proceedings of the 11th Biennial Participatory Design Conference (Sydney, Australia) (PDC ’10). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 121–130. https://doi.org/10.1145/1900441.1900459
[74]
Yiyue Luo, Kui Wu, Tomás Palacios, and Wojciech Matusik. 2021. KnitUI: Fabricating Interactive and Sensing Textiles with Machine Knitting. In Proceedings of the 2021 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Yokohama, Japan) (CHI ’21). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 668, 12 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3411764.3445780
[75]
Addie Martindale and Ellen McKinney. 2020. Self-sewn identity: How female home sewers use garment sewing to control self-presentation. Journal of Consumer Culture 20, 4 (2020), 563–577.
[76]
Addie Martindale and Ellen McKinney. 2020. Why Do They Sew? Women’s Motivations to Sew Clothing for Themselves. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 38, 1 (2020), 32–48. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19872552 arXiv:https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X19872552
[77]
Arlen C Moller, Andrew J Elliot, and Markus A Maier. 2009. Basic hue-meaning associations.Emotion 9, 6 (2009), 898.
[78]
Gianni Montagna and Cristina Carvalho. 2016. WearAbility. In Advances in Design for Inclusion, Giuseppe Di Bucchianico and Pete Kercher (Eds.). Springer International Publishing, Cham, 247–256.
[79]
Michael Muller. 2014. Curiosity, Creativity, and Surprise as Analytic Tools: Grounded Theory Method. In Ways of Knowing in HCI, Judith S. Olson and Wendy A. Kellogg (Eds.). Springer New York, New York, NY, 25–48. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4939-0378-8_2
[80]
Sara Nabil, Lee Jones, and Audrey Girouard. 2021. Soft Speakers: Digital Embroidering of DIY Customizable Fabric Actuators. In Proceedings of the Fifteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Salzburg, Austria) (TEI ’21). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 11, 12 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3430524.3440630
[81]
Sara Nabil, Jan Kučera, Nikoletta Karastathi, David S. Kirk, and Peter Wright. 2019. Seamless Seams: Crafting Techniques for Embedding Fabrics with Interactive Actuation. In Proceedings of the 2019 on Designing Interactive Systems Conference (San Diego, CA, USA) (DIS ’19). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 987–999. https://doi.org/10.1145/3322276.3322369
[82]
Érica P. das Neves, Aline C. Brigatto, and Luis C. Paschoarelli. 2015. Fashion and Ergonomic Design: Aspects that Influence the Perception of Clothing Usability. Procedia Manufacturing 3 (2015), 6133–6139. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.promfg.2015.07.769
[83]
Jakob Nielsen and Jonathan Levy. 1994. Measuring Usability: Preference vs. Performance. Commun. ACM 37, 4 (apr 1994), 66–75. https://doi.org/10.1145/175276.175282
[84]
Johanna Okerlund, Madison Dunaway, Celine Latulipe, David Wilson, and Eric Paulos. 2018. Statement Making: A Maker Fashion Show Foregrounding Feminism, Gender, and Transdisciplinarity. In Proceedings of the 2018 Designing Interactive Systems Conference (Hong Kong, China) (DIS ’18). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 187–199. https://doi.org/10.1145/3196709.3196754
[85]
Luis Paredes, Caroline McMillan, Wan Kyn Chan, Senthil Chandrasegaran, Ramyak Singh, Karthik Ramani, and Danielle Wilde. 2022. CHIMERA: Supporting Wearables Development across Multidisciplinary Perspectives. Proc. ACM Interact. Mob. Wearable Ubiquitous Technol. 5, 4, Article 174 (dec 2022), 24 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3494974
[86]
Irene Posch. 2017. Crafting Tools. Interactions 24, 2 (feb 2017), 78–81. https://doi.org/10.1145/3038227
[87]
Irene Posch. 2021. Crafting Stories: Smart and Electronic Textile Craftsmanship for Interactive Books. In Proceedings of the Fifteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Salzburg, Austria) (TEI ’21). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 100, 12 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3430524.3446076
[88]
Virginia Postrel. 2020. The fabric of civilization: How textiles made the world. Basic Books.
[89]
Sydney Pratte. 2022. Designing Fashion Technology Garments for Awareness. In Sixteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Daejeon, Republic of Korea) (TEI ’22). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 46, 6 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3490149.3503580
[90]
Sydney Pratte, Anthony Tang, Shannon Hoover, Maria Elena Hoover, Matt Laprairie, Catherine Larose, and Lora Oehlberg. 2023. Towards a Design Space for Storytelling on the Fashion Technology Runway. In Proceedings of the Seventeenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Warsaw, Poland) (TEI ’23). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 36, 15 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3569009.3573899
[91]
Kopo M. Ramokapane, Dirk van der Linden, and Anna Zamansky. 2019. Does My Dog Really Need a Gadget? What Can We Learn from Pet Owners’ Amotivations for Using Pet Wearables?. In Proceedings of the Sixth International Conference on Animal-Computer Interaction (Haifa, Israel) (ACI’19). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 6, 6 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3371049.3371054
[92]
Erica Robles and Mikael Wiberg. 2010. Texturing the "Material Turn" in Interaction Design. In Proceedings of the Fourth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA) (TEI ’10). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 137–144. https://doi.org/10.1145/1709886.1709911
[93]
María Teresa Rodríguez, Sérgio Nunes, and Tiago Devezas. 2015. Telling Stories with Data Visualization. In Proceedings of the 2015 Workshop on Narrative & Hypertext (Guzelyurt, Northern Cyprus) (NHT ’15). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 7–11. https://doi.org/10.1145/2804565.2804567
[94]
Paula Roinesalo, Juho Rantakari, Lasse Virtanen, and Jonna Häkkilä. 2016. Clothes Integrated Visual Markers as Self-Expression Tool. In Proceedings of the 18th International Conference on Human-Computer Interaction with Mobile Devices and Services Adjunct (Florence, Italy) (MobileHCI ’16). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 617–620. https://doi.org/10.1145/2957265.2961832
[95]
Aidin Salamzadeh, Samira Sadat Mortazavi, and Morteza Hadizadeh. 2022. Social Media and Digital Technologies Among Pottery Makers and in the Sewing Sector. In Artisan and Handicraft Entrepreneurs: Past, Present, and Future. Springer, 217–238.
[96]
Anup Sathya, Jiasheng Li, Tauhidur Rahman, Ge Gao, and Huaishu Peng. 2022. Calico: Relocatable On-Cloth Wearables with Fast, Reliable, and Precise Locomotion. Proc. ACM Interact. Mob. Wearable Ubiquitous Technol. 6, 3, Article 136 (sep 2022), 32 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3550323
[97]
Karen B Schloss, Laurent Lessard, Charlotte S Walmsley, and Kathleen Foley. 2018. Color inference in visual communication: the meaning of colors in recycling. Cognitive research: principles and implications 3, 1 (2018), 1–17.
[98]
Seamly. 2023. https://seamly.io/
[99]
Mohammad Shak Sadi and Eglė Kumpikaitė. 2022. Advances in the Robustness of Wearable Electronic Textiles: Strategies, Stability, Washability and Perspective. Nanomaterials 12, 12 (2022). https://doi.org/10.3390/nano12122039
[100]
Yang Shi, Nan Cao, Xiaojuan Ma, Siji Chen, and Pei Liu. 2020. EmoG: Supporting the Sketching of Emotional Expressions for Storyboarding. In Proceedings of the 2020 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Honolulu, HI, USA) (CHI ’20). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 1–12. https://doi.org/10.1145/3313831.3376520
[101]
Kristen Shinohara and Jacob O. Wobbrock. 2016. Self-Conscious or Self-Confident? A Diary Study Conceptualizing the Social Accessibility of Assistive Technology. ACM Trans. Access. Comput. 8, 2, Article 5 (jan 2016), 31 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/2827857
[102]
John Ormsbee Simonds. 1983. Landscape architecture: a manual of site planning and design. (1983).
[103]
Yolonda Skelton. 2022. Yolonda Skelton - Sugiit Lukxs designs. https://www.sugiitlukxsdesigns.com/
[104]
Andreas Sonderegger. 2013. Smart Garments – the Issue of Usability and Aesthetics. In Proceedings of the 2013 ACM Conference on Pervasive and Ubiquitous Computing Adjunct Publication (Zurich, Switzerland) (UbiComp ’13 Adjunct). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 385–392. https://doi.org/10.1145/2494091.2495969
[105]
Tatjana Spahiu, Ermira Shehi, and Erald Piperi. 2014. Advanced CAD/CAM systems for garment design and simulation. In 6th International conference of textile. 1–6.
[106]
Tali Stolovy. 2021. Styling the Self: Clothing Practices, Personality Traits, and Body Image Among Israeli Women. Frontiers in Psychology 12 (2021). https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2021.719318
[107]
Ilya A Surov. 2022. Quantum core affect. Color-emotion structure of semantic atom. Frontiers in Psychology 13 (2022), 838029.
[108]
Haruki Takahashi and Jeeeun Kim. 2019. 3D Printed Fabric: Techniques for Design and 3D Weaving Programmable Textiles. In Proceedings of the 32nd Annual ACM Symposium on User Interface Software and Technology (New Orleans, LA, USA) (UIST ’19). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 43–51. https://doi.org/10.1145/3332165.3347896
[109]
Joshua Tanenbaum, Nicole Crenshaw, and Karen Tanenbaum. 2016. “Its’a Me, Mario!”: Costumed Gaming’s Effects on Character Identification. In Abstract Proceedings of the First International Joint Conference of DiGRA and FDG, Digital Games Research Association (DiGRA).
[110]
Theresa Jean Tanenbaum. 2011. Being in the story: readerly pleasure, acting theory, and performing a role. In International Conference on Interactive Digital Storytelling. Springer, 55–66.
[111]
Theresa Jean Tanenbaum and Karen Tanenbaum. 2011. The Reading Glove: A Non-linear Adaptive Tangible Narrative. In Interactive Storytelling, Mei Si, David Thue, Elisabeth André, James C. Lester, Theresa Jean Tanenbaum, and Veronica Zammitto (Eds.). Springer Berlin Heidelberg, Berlin, Heidelberg, 346–349.
[112]
Theresa Jean Tanenbaum, Karen Tanenbaum, Katherine Isbister, Kaho Abe, Anne Sullivan, and Luigi Anzivino. 2015. Costumes and Wearables as Game Controllers. In Proceedings of the Ninth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Stanford, California, USA) (TEI ’15). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 477–480. https://doi.org/10.1145/2677199.2683584
[113]
Xuyuan Tao, Vladan Koncar, Tzu-Hao Huang, Chien-Lung Shen, Ya-Chi Ko, and Gwo-Tsuen Jou. 2017. How to Make Reliable, Washable, and Wearable Textronic Devices. Sensors 17, 4 (2017). https://doi.org/10.3390/s17040673
[114]
Chloe Taylor and Anna Franklin. 2012. The relationship between color–object associations and color preference: Further investigation of ecological valence theory. Psychonomic bulletin & review 19 (2012), 190–197.
[115]
Jan Thar, Sophy Stönner, Florian Heller, and Jan Borchers. 2018. YAWN: Yet Another Wearable Toolkit. In Proceedings of the 2018 ACM International Symposium on Wearable Computers (Singapore, Singapore) (ISWC ’18). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 232–233. https://doi.org/10.1145/3267242.3267280
[116]
Tonya Thompson. 2021. 144 genres and subgenres for fiction writing. https://www.servicescape.com/blog/144-genres-and-subgenres-for-fiction-writing
[117]
Laura Trautmann. 2021. Emotions evoked by geometric patterns. J 4, 3 (2021), 376–393.
[118]
Khai N. Truong, Gillian R. Hayes, and Gregory D. Abowd. 2006. Storyboarding: An Empirical Determination of Best Practices and Effective Guidelines. In Proceedings of the 6th Conference on Designing Interactive Systems (University Park, PA, USA) (DIS ’06). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 12–21. https://doi.org/10.1145/1142405.1142410
[119]
Heather Ujiie. 2006. Digital printing of textiles. CRC Press.
[120]
Lewis William Robert Urquhart, Andrew Wodehouse, 2017. The emotive qualities of patterns: Insights for design. In DS 87-8 Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Engineering Design (ICED 17) Vol 8: Human Behaviour in Design, Vancouver, Canada, 21-25.08. 2017. 109–118.
[121]
Daniela Ghanbari Vahid, Lee Jones, Audrey Girouard, and Lois Frankel. 2021. Shape Changing Fabric Samples for Interactive Fashion Design. In Proceedings of the Fifteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Salzburg, Austria) (TEI ’21). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 14, 7 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3430524.3440633
[122]
Valentina. 2023. https://smart-pattern.com.ua/en/valentina/download/
[123]
Anna Vallgårda and Johan Redström. 2007. Computational Composites. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (San Jose, California, USA) (CHI ’07). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 513–522. https://doi.org/10.1145/1240624.1240706
[124]
Adrian Wagner, Paul Miles Preuschoff, Philipp Wacker, Simon Voelker, and Jan Borchers. 2023. FabricFaces: Combining Textiles and 3D Printing for Maker-Friendly Folding-Based Assembly. In Extended Abstracts of the 2023 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Hamburg, Germany) (CHI EA ’23). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 135, 7 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3544549.3585854
[125]
Corinne Weisgerber and Shannan H Butler. 2011. Social media as a professional development tool: Using blogs, microblogs, and social bookmarks to create personal learning networks. In Teaching arts and science with the new social media. Emerald Group Publishing Limited, 339–363.
[126]
Theresa M Winge and Marybeth C Stalp. 2014. Virtually crafting communities: An exploration of fiber and textile crafting online communities. (2014).
[127]
Ying Yang, Nadia Magnenat Thalmann, and Daniel Thalmann. 1992. Three-dimensional garment design and animation: A new design tool for the garment industry. Computers in industry 19, 2 (1992), 185–200.
[128]
Clint Zeagler, Jaye Lish, Edie Cheezburger, Max Woo, Kathleen L Tynan, Elise Morton, Simrun Mannan, Eva L Christensen, Jordan Eggleston, Paige Greenfield, Chloe Lynne Choi, Axel Gustafsson, Jonatan Holmgren, Aparna Iyer, Michael Chi, Maribeth Gandy, Laura Levy, and Jay David Bolter. 2021. YOU BETTA WERK: Using Wearable Technology Performance Driven Inclusive Transdisciplinary Collaboration to Facilitate Authentic Learning. In Proceedings of the Fifteenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction (Salzburg, Austria) (TEI ’21). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 3, 12 pages. https://doi.org/10.1145/3430524.3440622

Index Terms

  1. Expressive Clothing: Understanding Hobbyist-Sewers' Visions for Self-Expression Through Clothing

    Recommendations

    Comments

    Please enable JavaScript to view thecomments powered by Disqus.

    Information & Contributors

    Information

    Published In

    cover image ACM Conferences
    CHI '24: Proceedings of the 2024 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems
    May 2024
    18961 pages
    ISBN:9798400703300
    DOI:10.1145/3613904
    Permission to make digital or hard copies of all or part of this work for personal or classroom use is granted without fee provided that copies are not made or distributed for profit or commercial advantage and that copies bear this notice and the full citation on the first page. Copyrights for components of this work owned by others than the author(s) must be honored. Abstracting with credit is permitted. To copy otherwise, or republish, to post on servers or to redistribute to lists, requires prior specific permission and/or a fee. Request permissions from [email protected].

    Sponsors

    Publisher

    Association for Computing Machinery

    New York, NY, United States

    Publication History

    Published: 11 May 2024

    Permissions

    Request permissions for this article.

    Check for updates

    Badges

    Author Tags

    1. communication
    2. design
    3. e-textiles
    4. fashion and clothing
    5. hobbyist-sewers
    6. self-expression
    7. storytelling
    8. tools for storytelling

    Qualifiers

    • Research-article
    • Research
    • Refereed limited

    Funding Sources

    • Natural Sciences and Engineering Research Council (NSERC)

    Conference

    CHI '24

    Acceptance Rates

    Overall Acceptance Rate 6,199 of 26,314 submissions, 24%

    Upcoming Conference

    CHI '25
    CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems
    April 26 - May 1, 2025
    Yokohama , Japan

    Contributors

    Other Metrics

    Bibliometrics & Citations

    Bibliometrics

    Article Metrics

    • 0
      Total Citations
    • 493
      Total Downloads
    • Downloads (Last 12 months)493
    • Downloads (Last 6 weeks)45
    Reflects downloads up to 21 Nov 2024

    Other Metrics

    Citations

    View Options

    Login options

    View options

    PDF

    View or Download as a PDF file.

    PDF

    eReader

    View online with eReader.

    eReader

    Full Text

    View this article in Full Text.

    Full Text

    HTML Format

    View this article in HTML Format.

    HTML Format

    Media

    Figures

    Other

    Tables

    Share

    Share

    Share this Publication link

    Share on social media