Draft and Cut Pattern for the

Casual Apparel
 Principles and Elements of Design

To create, recognize, or criticize dress design or any

object of art, one must understand the basic principles
of design as well as its elements. To achieve effectively
what is pleasing not just to the eyes of the beholder but
brings confidence and grace to our personality, the use
of principles and elements of design is aligned to the
dresses we must be wearing. Understanding better the
principles and elements of design is a great factor that
will contribute a lot to our personality development.
 Art and design are the application of skill and taste
that make a thing beautiful. It is a fact that our clothes
are worn for their artistic qualities which make us
more attractive and confident. Clothes are worn to
emphasize the good points and hide the defects or
imperfection of our physical trait.
Principles of Design

1. Proportion is the principle of art that refers to

relative size. ... Most, if not all of the principles of art
deal with how the elements art are arranged in a work
of art. Proportion is largely about the relationship of
the size of one element when compared to another.
Proportion in art is
the comparative
harmonious
relationship
between two or
more elements in a
composition with
respect to size,
color, quantity,
degree, setting
COLUMN OF COLOR USING RULE OF THE THIRDS
Pictures showing proper proportion in dress
2. Balance is the feeling of rest and equilibrium. This is
essential to the total design of a costume.

A. Formal or Symmetrical
Balance is achieved when
two sides of a design are
alike on either side of its
vertical center. Balance in
the use of color is essential
for a pleasing effect.
B. Informal balance or
Asymmetrical Balance is
achieved by using space, color,
and the varying importance of
objects to produce a feeling of rest.
It is more difficult to achieve than
formal balance, but it lends itself
to more interesting arrangements.
A dress with side draping on the
skirt might have a jeweled pin or a
flower on the opposite side of the
bodice to produce informal balance
Radial Balance When
major parts of the garment
design radiate from the
central part of the garment,
creating a sunburst
2. Harmony is the pleasing combination of hues,
values, and intensities. The color wheel is presented so
that you will learn the arrangement and relationship of
colors to the proper dress that is best for your feature.
Given as follows are illustrations of women wearing
monochromatic harmony feature. Given as follows are
illustrations of women wearing monochromatic
harmony.
Dress Design with Harmony
4. Emphasis means that one part of a design must
be more important than the other parts. The eye
should go first to this part. A repetition of line or
placement of color is applied to achieve emphasis. A
design which is too “busy” loses its point of
emphasis and becomes confusing. Good design in
dress leads the eye to the most attractive feature of
face or figure.
Dress Design with Emphasis
5. Rhythm is the movement of the eye from one part of the
design to other parts. Repetition of a line or shape is one of
the most common ways of attaining rhythm. In clothing,
curved lines tend to be more rhythmic than straight lines
because curved repeat the lines of the figure.

Dress Design with Rhythm

 Rhythm could be depicted through:

a. Repetition- Rhythm
could be achieved by
repetition or regular
recurrence of motifs of
design, shapes, buttons,
tucks, pleats, laces,
edgings, color, textures,
fabric designs etc. This
can be done with all
Dress Design with Rhythm by Repetition
parts having the same
shaped edges.
b. Progression- Rhythm is also
created by progression or by
gradation. Gradation implies a
gradual increase or decrease of
similar design elements. The
gradual changes provide
continuity while giving a feeling
of movement. Example: Colors
can go from light to dark or
textures from fine to coarse or
vice versa, shapes may range
from small to large, and lines Dress Design with Rhythm by Progression

may range from thin to thick.

c. Transition-
Transition is a fluid
rhythm created when
a curved line leads the
eye over an angle. The
curved lines of
transition cause the
eye to change direction
gradually rather than
abruptly.
Dress Design with Transition
d. Radiation- Rhythm by
radiation creates a feeling of
movement in different
directions. This organized
movement originates from a
central point of gathers, folds,
tucks, darts, pleats and lines.
Direction of radiation may be in
a similar or one direction,
opposing direction or both the
directions, several directions
Dress Design with Rhythm by
and all directions. Radiation
e. Continuous line
movement -This type
of rhythm is obtained
by flowing lines of
trims, bands of color,
fabric designs etc.,
which make the eye
move in a continuous
line. This movement
also unifies the
garment design
bringing about Dress Design with Rhythm by
continues line movement
harmony.
Types of Design

In clothing, the best structural design follows the

natural body lines. Decorative design gives emphasis to
certain areas. Fact is when we attempt to clarify our
figure types, we realize that only few has the perfect or
in average figure type. The tall, thin girl seemed to be
the ideal fashion figure nowadays. But no matter what
figure type we may have, the lines of our figure will
determine what designs are most appropriate for us.
a. Structural Design are formed by the arrangement of
lines, forms, colors, and textures. If these four elements
are carefully arranged and applied on the materials
used, they will create beauty to the finished garment. In
a garment of solid-colored fabric, its structural design
is its silhouette, neckline, placement of the waistline,
sleeves, length, and location and fitting of darts and
tucks.
Dress with Structural Design
b. Decorative Design
refers to the surface
enrichments of a
structural design. Its
decorative design may
consist of unusual
buttons, a belt buckle,
a contrasting collar
and cuffs.
Dress with decorative design
ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
1. Line

The basic part of any design is formed by lines.

The eye tends to follow the direction of the line in a
dress design or in the fabric of the dress. Lines may
be horizontal, vertical, straight, curved, diagonal,
radiating, down sweeping, up-sweeping, or angular,
and they are capable of creating interesting
illusions.
a. Horizontal- gives the impression of shorter and heavier.
b. Vertical – gives the impression of height.
 2. Form

Form refers to the shape of an object as

determined by line. In costume design the silhouette is
the term used to describe form which may repeat, may
contrast, or be transitional. When the lines of a dress
repeat the form of the body too closely, they produce
an uncomfortable, restricting effect. At the other
extreme, a silhouette which is completely opposed to
the lines of the figure distorts rather than enhances
the total design. A design suggests the contours of the
body.
Dress Design with Form
3. Texture

The surface quality of a fabric comprises its

texture. It appeals strongly to the sense of touch,
whether it is coarse, fine, smooth, rough, wrinkled,
sleek, glossy, slippery. Textures are affected by weave,
finishes, and the nature of the fibers and yarns used in
weaving. Textures as well as lines can create illusions,
one must choose textures for clothes that will
harmonize with the over-all design.
Dresses showing Different Texture
4. Shape

Clothes reveal or disguise the natural body

contour or shape. Choosing the right clothing shapes
will make the person more flattering. Wide, full shapes
clothes will make you look larger while trim, compact
dress will make you look smaller. Straight, tubular
shapes will make the wearer look taller while fitted
clothes will reveal the natural body contours.
Dresses showing shapes
 5. Color

Color is light, and light contains within itself all the sun’s
rays, and when it is broken into wavelengths of light, a sensation
is produced, upon the retina of the eye which is called color. The
eye responds to color the same as the ear responds to music.
One’s reaction to color are both physiological and psychological.
The varying properties of color can, like skillful use of line and
proportion, make a large object appear smaller, or a small object
seem larger. Some colors bring an object nearer, and others
make it seem farther away. Colors affect the emotions that is
why sometimes you do not realize what has made you cheerful,
subdued or melancholy.
Color is a powerful element in our life. It has vibration, light and
energy which affects us.
 Use of Color in Clothes

1. Black, dark
tones or deeply
grayed colors
tend to make
the figure
appear smaller
or slimmer than
bright or light
colors.
2. A plain color makes the figure look slimmer than a
combination of contrasting colors. A two-tone effect
broken across the figure makes it look shorter and
broader. A lengthwise contrast helps to give an illusion of
slenderness. Large prints or plaids may make the figure
appear large or heavier.
3. A very small figure should not wear over large designs
in prints, plaids, or stripes; the person with a large figure
should avoid them as well as a too-dainty design. This
type should choose motifs that are moderate and avoid the
conspicuous or too sharply designed.
4. A very small figure should not wear over large designs
in prints, plaids, or stripes; the person with a large figure
should avoid them as well as a too-dainty design. This
type should choose motifs that are moderate and avoid
the conspicuous or too sharply designed
5. Contrast and accent should be done with care. A little
accent, perhaps a touch of red on many blues at the
throat or shoulder is smarter than a repeated accent. If
you have a particular figure problem, such as large bust
or hips, place your color contrast in such a way that it
draws away the eye and emphasize a good point.
 The simplest harmony is the dominant harmony. It
is a harmony of two or more tones of one color or a
harmony in which one color pervades such as tints and
shades of brown, tints and shades of green. They are
found in nature.

Analogous harmony is a harmony of two or more

colors alike in some ways but different in others. It is
based on the contrast in value. Examples are red, red,
violet, and violet.
 A contrasting harmony is a combination of two colors
which are different in hue and which require a third color to
bring them together. It is the hardest color to combine.
Examples are sage-green, cream, rose and black, black or
gold, gray, blue, red with black or gold

A COCKTAIL DRESS COLOR WHEEL CONSISTING OF TWELVE COLORS WITH COMPLEMENTARY

ACCESSORIES WHICH WILL GIVE YOU AN IDEA TO MAKE SUCCESSFUL CHOICE OF COLOR.
 APPLY PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN IN CREATING
GARMENT DESIGN
The three primary colors are red, blue and yellow. Primary
colors all go together…
 COLOR SCHEME

A. Related Colors
1. Monochromatic Harmony- One color of different
shade
2. Analogous Harmony
Three neighboring colors, one of which is dominant
or Colors that sit next to each other on the color
wheel are called Analogous Colors.
 B. Contrasting Colors
1. Complementary Colors opposite each other in the
color wheel. Each secondary color sits directly opposite a
primary color on the color wheel. That opposite
relationship is called Complementary Color.
2. Double Complementary- Two neighboring colors
and their opposite colors
3. Split complementary color scheme is one where a
primary color is used with the two analogous colors to its
complement. In this case, blue is matched up with yellow
and orange red. Orange is the direct complement to blue
and orange red and yellow are the analogs to orange.
 These twelve basic Colors are called “Hues”. You can
darken them with black (“Shade”) mute them with
gray(“tone”), or lighten them with white (“tint”) to get the
different variations of the same color.
 Classifications of Colors

According to some fashion designers, in wearing

appropriate dress, we should consider the Law of the
Dressing Scheme which emphasizes the harmonious
combination of colors in costumes and the
becomingness of the colors in bringing out the charm of
the eyes, hair, and skin tone of the wearer.
 To bring out the best in our personality, the color of
the eyes, hair and complexion should always be
considered. This determines that white complexioned
prefers the light colors, green is the best color and
tints of orange, blue, and red creamy, and white. Avoid
brown, yellow and purple. Fair complexioned can wear
light or dark colors but should avoid medium values.
Neutral and bright colors emphasize age, size,
feature, and complexion and should be selected
carefully. Light colors express gaiety and daintiness
while dark ones give force and dignity.
THE 6 DIFFERENT BODY TYPES
 DIFFERENT TYPES OF SKIRTS

1. Straight skirt/fitted or sheath/Tube skirt-

referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line
with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline. It is a
slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut line.
Generally, the hem falls to, or just below the knee and
is tailored for a close fit. It is named for its shape: long
and slim like a pencil. Tube skirt is a fitted skirt made
in stretchy fabric. This is a very figure flattering skirt.
A. Short Straight/Mini Skirt is a skirt style just
above the knee and it gives a flattering effect to the
wearer. However, there are super short straight skirt
such as the micro-mini, which are becoming to those
who have slim and long- legged figures.
B. Long Straight Skirt is best when they end to the
part of the legs that begins to taper.
2. A-Line/ Flared Skirt is a skirt fuller at the hem than at
the waist and probably the best style for most women. Its
silhouette is narrower at the top, flaring gently wider toward
the bottom thereby resembling the letter A. It may be fitted
at the waist, high hip, and full hip. It works well on women
with small waist and good for those with full-hipped figures .
3. Gored Skirt is a style of skirt consists of four, six,
eight or more gores shaped to flare from waist to hem.
This is very classic, and is always in fashion. It’s one of
the most flattering styles. Its vertical lines create an
illusion of height and slimness. A gored skirt can be
either straight or Aline, depending on the contours of the
gores. For a slim woman, a gored style which is fitted at
the waist and hips and flares at the hem line is best
suited. While A-line is best for you, if the skirt with gores
flare from waist or high hip which is emphasized by the
shaped and curvy gores.
4. Pleated/ Tucked Skirt is a type of skirt which has
pleats that create refined vertical line while softening the
figure. Skirt with all around pleats are best for slim,
narrow-hipped figures.
a. Box pleated skirt – a double pleat having two upper
folds facing in opposite directions and two under folds
pressed toward each other.
b. Fix box pleated skirt- a flat double pleat made by
folding under the fabric on either side of it.
c. Knife pleated skirt- a sharply creased narrow pleat,
usually one of a series folded in the same direction.
d. Accordion pleated skirt- a series of narrow, evenly
spaced parallel pleats with alternating raised and recessed
folds set into skirt usually by a commercial pleating
machine.
5. Gathered skirt/ Dirndl skirt- This skirt is a straight
skirt which is gathered at the waist. The fullness of the
gathers is fitted by a waistband and this type of skirt
visually adds weight and bulk to any figure
 OTHER TYPE OF SKIRTS:

1. Draped Skirt A draped skirt has fullness gathered or

draped on one side. It is also called a Sarong draped
skirt. Sarong is a square piece of fabric which can be
wrapped around the body to make a skirt.
2. Layered skirt in this type of skirt layers of ruffled
fabric are arranged one on top of the other to form a
skirt.
3. Circle skirt This is a very full skirt which is somewhat
fitted at the waist. The fabric piece of the skirt will
resemble a circle with a hole which is why the name.
4. Semi-circular skirt – skirt made half the amount of
fabric used in circular skirt.
5. This skater skirt maintains its unique shape by being
quite fitted at the waist. Similar to a circle skirt, this
informal and lighter skirt differentiates itself by its short
length. This is a fairly informal skirt, perfect for casual
occasions.
6. Godet skirt. A godet is triangular piece of fabric
inserted into the body of the skirt to give fullness.
7. Trumpet skirt- A trumpet shaped skirt is fitted near
the waist and till the bottom hem and then flares outside
near the hem. A mermaid skirt is a trumpet shaped skirt.
8. Wrap skirt This is a one-piece skirt which is wrapped
around the body, overlapping and fastened with the help
of ties or a button closure.
9. Divided skirt/trouser skirt A divided skirt looks like
a skirt with wide flares but is actually divided into two
legs like pants
10. Asymmetrical Hem skirt These are skirts with a
hem which looks asymmetrical; A Handkerchief skirt is
one, which looks like you are holding down a
handkerchief pinching its center, with its corners
hanging down.
11. Bubble Skirt These skirts have a puffy silhouette
just above the hem with the hem gathered (going in)
with an elastic casing or a band.
12. Yoke Skirt These are skirts with two parts to them –
the yoke above and the skirt below. The yoke may be of
different types – round, asymmetrical or triangular. This
skirt is also called the hip hugger as the yoke fits around
the hip. The skirt below may be gathered or pleated.
13. Tulip skirt -This skirt as the name suggest has the
shape of an inverted tulip flower. It is a skirt with
overlapping panels in the front with an irregular hem
because of the way it overlaps. The skirt is wider at the
middle than the hem or waist
14. Tiered skirt- A tiered skirt is a type of skirt in
which the fabric is layered all the way down the skirt to
make it appear like it is with different tiers. Usually,
this makes the skirt look layered or ruffled. A tiered
skirt is very versatile, as you can wear it to casual
events, as well as to formal ones, depending on the top
you pair it with. It suits all body types, is available in
every length from mini to maxi and in different designs
and styles.
15. Peplum skirt - is a short, gathered, slightly flared
strip of fabric attached at the waist of a woman’s blouse,
jacket, skirt or dress.
16. Flounced skirt – a skirt consisting of a strip
gathered and sewed on by its upper edge around the
skirt, and left hanging.
SKIRT LENGTHS
1. Pear-Shaped or Triangle shaped
Pear-shaped bodies are so in right now. Thanks to
the Kardashian sisters, the world is embracing big
butts, and people are flaunting them like nobody’s
business. So, wear skirts that enhance it for you. High-
waisted, pencil, and denim skirts will look good on you.
If you don’t like that idea, wear structured tops and
skirts made of light fabrics to create a balance.
2. Apple-Shaped/ Round shaped Apple body types are quite
similar to pear-shaped bodies, except that your shoulders are
slightly broader and proportionate to your lower body. A-line,
maxi, wrap around, and pleated skirts will look lovely on you.
Let the tops be simple and without too much overlay.

3. Hourglass shaped If you are an hourglass figured diva,

you know that just about anything looks supremely stylish
on you. Having said that, pencil skirts look exceptionally
good on you. If you want to add some flare below your hips,
A-line and skater skirts are some great options.
4. Rectangle shaped
Maxi or pleated skirts are great for this body type. Since your
upper and lower body are almost proportional, straight cuts
will look nice on you. However, if you want to create an
illusion of curves, go with tops that are relatively light and
breezy, especially when you are opting for flared patterns

5. Petite/ Inverted Triangle Shaped

Petite body frames, just like the hourglass, are easy to
work with. However, the trick is to add a little definition to
accentuate your curves. Pleated, A-line, and flared skirts
will do just that. Make sure to avoid skirts that stop at
your calves.
Thank you for Listening