Presented By: Rohan.J BFT/15/314: Project-Quality Control in Sewing Department by Increasing Pass Percentage of Garments
Presented By: Rohan.J BFT/15/314: Project-Quality Control in Sewing Department by Increasing Pass Percentage of Garments
Presented By: Rohan.J BFT/15/314: Project-Quality Control in Sewing Department by Increasing Pass Percentage of Garments
Presented By:
Rohan.J
BFT/15/314
PART 1
COMPANY PROFILE:
Overview:
Partnering leading global brands as an original denim manufacturer,
Suryalakshmi Cotton creates value added denim garments in a
variety of styles, colors and finishes. We are a major denim wear
supplier to high street retailers, fashion houses and independent
designers across the globe, for children’s wear, women swear and
menswear. Working in close collaboration with customers’ design
teams, suryalakshmi cater to fast fashion requirements with quick
turnaround times.
Suryalakshmi at a Glance:
1000 crores turnover.
2 factories with 13,000+ machines running across them
25,000 direct employees
5,000 garment pieces per day
90 thousand garments produced in a year.
They export to more than 29 countries.
• Vision
• “To become a global leader and preferred partner in
premium yarn and denim fabric manufacturing by
leveraging long-term growth opportunities and creating
superior value for all stakeholders.”
• Mission
• “To be one of the Top Global Players in the specialized
denim and premium yarn sector, bringing inspiration and
innovation to every fabric and garment we create.”
• Values:
• Customer First : -
• We put the needs of our customers first and are focused
on delivering value by providing the highest quality
products.
• Integrity: -
• We are committed to remain transparent, honest and accountable in our
relationships with all stakeholders, both on the inside and outside.
• Innovation-led Design Thinking: -
• We will leverage design thinking, technology innovation for delivering fast
fashion to our customers.
• We exercise the highest levels of professionalism in our work &
relationships and are committed to continuous improvement in our
pursuit of excellence.
• Responsibility: -
• We pay attention to what we create, how we create it and the way it
impacts people and the environment.
• People Welfare: -
• We exercise global standards of worker and human resource welfare to
create an efficient, healthy, happy and satisfied workforce.
CLIENTS:
PART - 2
DEPARTMENT STUDY:
Fabric store consists of 50 racks. The factory usually keeps stock for 4-5 days.
Capacity of the store varies based on the diameter of rolls. Racks are given
specific numbers for identification. With each rack one bin card is attached
which contains details such as buyers name, P.O. no., style no, color, shade and
article.
• SHRINKAGE CHECKING PROCESS
• The factory has its shrinkage procedure as follows:
• Bit cutting for shrinkage 60 cm.
• Shrinkage 50 cm (length- width) marking using template.
• Template marking 50cm x 50cm.
• Shrinkage bit overlocked with 3 sides.
• Overlock bit in tubular form
• Wet and dry process as per wash standards.
• Shrinkage bit cut open in fabric store.
• Ironed as per garment wash
Shrinkage test performing on fabric and checking
TRIM STORE:
• In trims and accessories store all the accessories
are stored in large quantity. All the accessories
have details mention on it.
• Pre-production processes:
• In pre-production process all trims must be
according to the standard.
• In this process shade must be according to
standard.
• In this process measurement should be
according to standard.
• After all trims, accessories, wash and
measurement checking, sample is send to buyer
for any changes and their comment.
• If there are any changes then again sample is
made.
• After sample pre-production meeting is held.
• Then Size set is done
• Then bulk production is carried out
Trim card contain all the accessories needed for sewing and finishing.
SPREADING AND CUTTING:
Fabric issued from the fabric store:
The lay slip and fabric rolls (relaxed if required) are issued
from the fabric store
LAY SLIPS: Lay Slips are made in accordance to need of
width of fabric, length of fabric, to identify fabric sort
number, and efficiency, and then it is issued from the fabric
department to CAD department. Based on the information
the markers are made. The slip is sent to the spreader with
the markers. Once the laying of the fabric is finished it is
submitted back to the fabric section. Based on the
information, the pro-cut is updated and FCR (FABRIC
CONSUMPTION REPORT) is made and submitted to the
head office.
Lay slips have information regarding length, shrinkage,
width of the fabric roll.
SEWING DEPARTMENT:
Procedure of stitching line:
• IE manager allot a plan for all batches
according to planning and style wise
• Target will be fixed to planning
• Line balancing is done in morning by IE
department
• Operation breakdown is done by IE
department.
• Operator should be placed according to
operation.
• Hourly time study of each operator is
done
• If 1st hour production have problem, then
one senior operator / floater is allotted to
that particular operation to meet the
production
• Monitoring is done at each hour by
supervisor.
• Tracking of product is done according to
tracking sheet.
• Report is sent to production manager
daily.
• SAM, manpower, Tack time, and
bottleneck all are handled by IE
Hourly Production Target
The hourly production targets are decided
by the planning manager according to
the maximum efficiency with which the
garment can be made. The efficiency
depends on the types of operations and
the material handling and number of
workstations. Standard operation procedure
The SAM value of the sewing operations is
used and time taken to produce the order
quantity is calculated.
PROJECT:
Line B
STYLE NO.--368100
Garment checked 205 422 421 406 282 1736
DEFECTS 26-08-2019 27-08-2019 28-08-2019 29-08-2019 30-08-2019 TOTAL DEFECTS
Skipped stitch 42 98 23 10 6 179
crotch miss match 5 18 22 38 18 101
Waistband lineout 25 15 29 22 32 123
Long back tack 18 36 28 12 46 140
Loose stitch 15 9 0 7 9 40
Uncut thread 70 39 82 38 61 290
Uneven stitch 64 59 47 64 55 289
Stitch break 45 39 70 52 31 237
No side loop 44 38 24 22 16 144
Thread break 2 0 3 0 1 6
TOTAL 1549
Line C
STYLE NO.—370883
Line D
STYLE NO.--357954
Garment checked 459 397 269 272 402 1799
S.no. DEFECTS 31-08-2019 02-09-2019 03-09-2019 04-09-2019 05-09-2019 TOTAL DEFECTS
1 Uncut thread 76 98 51 77 71 373
2 Crotch miss match 43 39 54 21 15 172
3 Run up stitch 62 81 56 47 35 281
4 Long back tack 78 68 70 45 39 300
5 Loose stitch 24 28 37 30 27 146
6 Waistband lineout 29 35 32 29 30 155
7 Uneven stitch 43 34 37 41 39 194
TOTAL 1621
By the above data the DHU% of sewing lines and the major five
defects as of 4th week of august are:
• Stitch break
• Uneven stitch
• Raw edges
• Uneven piping
2. LINE B 11.16% • Skipped stitch
• Crotch mismatch
• Uncut thread
• Crotch mismatch
• Uneven piping
• Loose stitch
4. LINE D 9.5% • Raw edges
• Uncut thread
• Crotch mismatch
• Loose stitch
PARETO ANALYSIS CHARTS OF LINES AS PER THE DATA
COLLECTED
After the pareto analysis major defects and the critical
operations were identified and started collecting data operation
wise and the results are as follows.
Major defects and their critical operations:
Line A
Date-04/09/1-
06/09/19
TOTAL CHECKED
Skipped Uneven
GARMENT--104 Broken Raw Uneven
Operation
stitch stitch stitch edges piping
Hem 0 10 11 0 0
Back yoke attach 17 0 0 7 0
Topstitch inseam 10 0 0 0 14
Pocket attach 0 15 12 11 0
Coin pocket attach 0 7 0 8 0
TOTAL 27 22 23 26 14
Line B
Date--04/09/19--
06/09/19
TOTAL CHECKED GARMENT--127
skipped Waistband Crotch Uncut Long
Operation
stitch lineout mismatch thread backtack
Pocket hemming 0 0 0 7 4
Waist band attach 12 15 0 0 8
Front pocket mouth
10 0 0 12 7
hem
crotch attach 0 0 16 0 0
TOTAL 22 15 16 19 19
Line--C
Date--04/09/19--06/09/19
TOTAL CHECKED GARMENT—115
Uneven Crotch Uncut Long back Loose
Operation
piping mismatch thread tack stitch
Loop attach 0 0 15 8 14
Topstitch inseam 9 0 7 6 0
Crotch join 0 18 0 0 0
Front pocket
0 12
attach 0 11 7
Inseam 8 0 0 0 0
Total 17 18 34 25 21
Line D
Date -04/09/19--
06/09/19
Operation Raw edges TOTAL
Long back tack CHECKED
UncutGARMENT--139
thread Crotch mismatch Loose stitch
Waistband attach 6 0 8 0 0
Back yoke 12 12 5 0 2
Front pocket attach 9 0 4 0 7
Bottom hemming 1 3 0 0 12
crotch attach 0 0 0 16 0
TOTAL 28 15 17 16 21
Broken stitches:
Causes:
M- Inappropriate thread tension. Needle plate,
pressure foot, needle holes may have sharp edges.
M-Wrong needle size and thread size
M-Weak thread
Skipped stitches:
Causes:
M-Operator in efficiency
M-Hook or needle is not able to hold the thread loop in
proper time, Needle deflection or bending, Tension
variation in needle thread.
M-Loop size or needle is small, Improper handling of cut
pieces.
Uneven piping
Causes:
M -Operator speeding up machine too rapidly, Operator
holding back or pulling fabric through in variance with correct
machine feed, Operator inefficiency.
M –Needle deflection or bending, Tension variation in looper
and needle thread.
M –Loop size or needle is small, Improper handling of cut
pieces
Untrimmed thread
Causes:
M- Improper trimming
M- Improper finishing
Raw edges
Causes:
M –Improper seaming by the operator
M –Improper folding
Inspection of garments was started and there was found some
defects on each line.
According to my collected data, DHU% & Pass percentage of
garments of each line are given below:-
Broken Stitches:
Someplace in the stitch line where the stitch doesn’t get formed
Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another
seam (Example bar tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on
top of riser seam) resulting in stitch failure
Solution:
-Using minimum thread tension to get a balanced stitch
-Using the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging
-Training sewing operators not to stop on the thickness.
Implementation in skipped stitches:
The needle was slightly bent even though we cannot see the bend, it
was developing a dull point from use. Due to this many of the stitches
were skipped while sewing. After the observation needles were made to
alter at regular intervals and the results are as follows
From 09/09/19 – 11/09/19
Solution:
-Insure correct machine maintenance and sewing machine
adjustments
-Observe sewing operators for correct material handling
techniques
Implementation in Run up stitch:
Some of the operators were not correctly able to look at the stitch
while sewing due to lack of light on the stitch.
The lights were installed in few of the machines by replacing the
light bulb with the machines which were not in use.
Uneven piping:
Where the seam doesn’t lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching
as it was sewn or during subsequent laundering or handling operations
Solution:
-Using minimum presser foot pressure.
-Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques
and not stretch the fabric as they are making the seam.
-Where available use differential feed to compensate for the
stretch of the fabric
Implementation in Uneven piping
This problem came due to the miss alignment of front and back
attaches operation during sewing. so it was suggested to use stopper
which will stop the fabric at 1/4th inch so that operator can stitch easily
without miss alignment.
Operation Uneven piping
Hem 0
Back yoke attach 2
Topstitch inseam 7
Pocket attach 0
Coin pocket attach 0
TOTAL 9
As on 09/09/19 – 11/09/19
Un trim thread:
Few of the garments picked up by the operator for the removal of
unnecessary threads or trims are not properly done.
Solution:
-Providing adequate training to the operators and providing
thread cutter to every operator and make used to it.
-To cut thread properly, start regularly checking system to
check the auto trimming machine is properly functioning or
not.
Implementation for un trim thread:
Quality in charge was made to check and monitor the work of
inspectors. All garments found with the uncut thread based on
inspection report must be advised to all concerned operators and
sewing supervisors for proper corrective action to avoid garments
passed to next process with the uncut thread.
Quality inspector was made to ensure that workers are following the
proper method of trimming and operators are doing self-trimming.
Control phase:
The main purpose of this step is to obtain the gains, monitoring the
improvements to ensure continued and sustainable success. Create a
control plan. Update documents, business processes and training records
wherever it is as required. After implementation of the solutions, the positive
results are discussed with the managers and the progressive outcomes were
shared with the management. The main defects were recognized and
partially reduced in amount. Now the challenge is to withstand the
progresses and to sustain the improvements made in improving the
processes refining the system continuously.
Control Plan: The following are the mandatory actions that have to be
taken by the management to maintain the results after implementation in
the garment industry
1. The operators of garment industry must be given training on a continuous
basis on the issue of quality.
2. Always use of the good quality needles, threads, and the other garment
accessories
3. Tight quality controls should be enforced on those products coming from
subcontractors
4. The drawings of the product must be made available at all the machines.
The final garment pattern should be referred by all the operators.
5. The administration ought to give the incentives for high quality
performance.
6. The focus should be on preventing defects rather than correcting defects.
7. Training the subcontractors on the importance of quality on continuous
basis.
8. The organization should develop a proper quality management system.
Deploy improvements Control –
Engineers and production managers always search for an approach
to enhance processing factory’s labor productivity. But they look-
over things that lower labor productivity. “Higher line setting time” as
it is one of the most visible reasons at present the factory’s overall
productivity. When it sets aside longer time for setting a line, most of
the operators sit idle. That means operators are not utilized in
producing garment and operator productivity falls resulting high
labor cost.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION: